Category Archives: Adventure

Top 10 Travel Destinations of Sabah

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Welcome to our list of the top 10 travel destinations in Sabah. Handpicked for their popularity and quality, these attractions offer unforgettable experiences. Our recommendations are based on firsthand experiences, let’s dive into the captivating wonders of Sabah!

1. Mount Kinabalu (Kinabalu Park)

Climbing Malaysia’s tallest peak, Mount Kinabalu, is a must-do for any Sabah trip. Located within Kinabalu Park, a UNESCO Global Geopark, this mountain offers not just thrilling climbs but also lush nature trails teeming with unique plants and wildlife. Birdwatching in the park and highland stay at adjacent Kundasang are also popular activities among tourists.

Mount Kinabalu is 4,095 metres in height and the highest mountain of Malaysia. Next to it is Mount Nungkok, a.k.a. The Child of Kinabalu

Kinabalu UNESCO Global Geopark is a UNESCO triple crown site (Geopark, World Heritage Site, and the UNESCO Crocker Range Biosphere Reserve)

View of Tunku Abdul Rahman Peak from the Panalaban base camp

Descending from Mount Kinabalu. Climbers need to descend around 8am before dense mist covers the peak.

You are close to the highest peak when you reach the wishing pond

Do check out Mount Kinabalu Botanical Garden and join an interesting interpretation walk that introduces you to some flora of Borneo, e.g. Kinabalu Slipper Orchid and the mighty Nepenthes Rajah, a carnivorous pitcher plant capable of trapping small prey like mice! Read more…

2. Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park

Kota Kinabalu City is renowned as a nature resort city and a fantastic retirement destination. One of the main attractions is Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, conveniently located just 15 minutes away from the city by boat. During peak seasons, tens of thousands of tourists flock to this marine park, comprised of five tropical islands.

Manukan Island is the most visited islands of Sabah

The clear sea water of Sapi Island

Manukan Resort near the beach

Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park is only 15 minutes away from Kota Kinabalu City by boat ride

Mamutik Island is the smallest island of Tunku Abdul Rahman Park

These islands boast stunning coral reefs bustling with a variety of colorful reef fish, making them ideal spots for a range of water activities including swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, kayaking, parasailing, and sea-walking. You can also embark on an island-hopping tour to visit two to three islands (Manukan, Sapi, Mamutik) in a single day, allowing you to fully appreciate the beauty of each island. Read more…

3. Sepilok

A visit to Sepilok offers the chance to explore three remarkable Borneo attractions located side by side. Start with the Orangutan rehabilitation centre, where orphaned orangutans are trained to survive in the wild. During feeding sessions, you can observe these intelligent apes sharing food with mischievous macaques. Just a short distance away lies the Bornean Sunbear Conservation Centre, where you can watch adorable sun bears in their element.

The feeding time of Sepilok orangutan rehabilitation centre are at 10am and 3pm

The tower and skywalk of Rainforest Discovery Centre in Sandakan

A Bornean sunbear napping high on a tree

Tourists looking at the training of baby orangutan at the nursery

The tall tropical trees at Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC)

Nearby, the Rainforest Discovery Centre (RDC) immerses you in the Borneo rainforest and is a hotspot for birdwatching. Take a stroll along the sturdy 620-metre-long skywalk, allowing you to wander amidst towering tropical trees and observe fruits and birds up-close. With luck, you might even spot endemic birds like the Bornean Bristlehead, a prized sighting for birdwatchers. Read more…

4. Sipadan Island

Sipadan Island stands as Malaysia’s premier diving site, unequivocally. This world-renowned spot is a haven for scuba enthusiasts, offering a breathtaking array of marine life, including turtles, schools of bumphead parrotfish, barracuda, and jackfish across more than 10 dive sites.

Snorkelling at Sipadan Island. See how clear the water is.

Sipadan Island is the only oceanic island in Malaysia

Sipadan Island is part of the Coral Triangle (a.k.a. Amazon of the Sea)

The dark blue area in the sea is a 600 metre drop to the deep

The skeleton of turtle trapped in Turtle Tomb Cave

The Hanging Garden is revered among divers for its vibrant display of hard and soft corals along vertical walls. For those with cave diving skills, the Turtle Tomb is an unmissable underwater cavern notorious for trapping and drowning turtles. Even snorkelers can revel in the island’s underwater marvels. Sipadan Island epitomizes the untouched beauty of a tropical paradise, devoid of human activities that threaten the environment. Read more…

5. Danum Valley

The Borneo rainforest stands as one of the oldest in the world, boasting unparalleled biodiversity. Within this pristine expanse lies Danum Valley, a sanctuary teeming with wildlife and untouched natural beauty. Here, you’ll encounter the world’s tallest tropical trees amidst the dense foliage. For an immersive experience, consider staying at the Borneo Rainforest Lodge, a 5-star jungle retreat.

Canopy walk of Danum Valley

A sleeping Black-crowned pitta we saw during night walk

Morning walk in the misty rainforest of Borneo

Borneo Rainforest Lodge in Danum Valley

Guests can partake in a range of guided activities, including canopy walks, birdwatching, waterfall explorations, riverside picnics, night safaris, and tubing adventures. During the fruiting season, observe orangutans and hornbills feasting on fig trees. Night walks offer a rare glimpse of elusive Bornean creatures such as the tarsier, clouded leopard, and bearcat. Read more…

6. Klias Wetland

The Klias Peninsula is poised to become Malaysia’s next RAMSAR site, recognized for the exceptional biodiversity of a wetland. This unique ecosystem, encompassing peat swamp forests, harbors a rich variety of wildlife. Visitors can embark on leisurely boat cruises along the brackish river, which serves as a crucial carbon sink storing vast amounts of wood beneath its surface.

Proboscis Monkey is endemic to Borneo and also known as Dutch Monkey because of its big nose and belly

River cruise at Klias Wetland

Blue-eared Kingfisher is common at the mangrove and rivers of Sabah

Klias wetland is a peat swamp forest with unique vegetation

The brackish water of Klias River is the best nursery for prawns and crabs

During the daytime, the enchanting sight of proboscis monkeys, endemic to Borneo, steals the show. Abundant sightings of other animals, including oriental darters, hornbills, kingfishers, grey-leaf monkeys, and macaques, add to the allure. As night falls, prepare to be mesmerized by a magical spectacle as thousands of fireflies adorn the trees along the riverbank, resembling twinkling Christmas trees on a summer’s night. Read more…

7. Poring Hot Springs

Poring is not boring! Poring offers a refreshing escape for those seeking relaxation and adventure alike. Relax and rejuvenate in the soothing Sulphur hot springs, renowned for their therapeutic properties beneficial for both skin and ailments. Explore the butterfly garden, home to rare species like the Rajah Brooke Birdwing.

Bath area of Poring Hot Springs. This area was discovered by the Japanese.

Canopy walk of Poring Hot Springs is one of the most popular activities here

Langanan Waterfall in Poring Hot Springs is one of the tallest waterfalls of Sabah

Red-bearded bee-eater

Chalets in the park of Poring Hot Springs

For thrill-seekers, challenge your fear of heights with a stroll across the wobbly canopy walk, suspended 40 meters above ground—a thrilling experience and one of Sabah’s highest. If that’s not enough excitement, embark on a two-hour hike to the majestic Langanan Waterfall, one of Sabah’s tallest.

Poring also offers cozy chalets for those wishing to fully immerse themselves in nature’s embrace. Nearby, keep an eye out for the blooming rafflesia flower, a rare and impressive sight during the right season. Read more…

8. Boheydulang Island

Prepare to be awestruck by the breathtaking beauty of Boheydulang Island, where every vista elicits a resounding “WOW!” This enchanting island boasts arguably the most scenic sea views in all of Borneo. Situated within the Tun Sakaran Marine Park, Boheydulang is one of eight islands formed by an ancient volcano that erupted 2.5 million years ago. Most of the volcano’s crater is now submerged beneath the sea, with the remnants forming the picturesque islands we see today. Nicknamed Pearl Island, Boheydulang is steeped in legend, with tales of Princess Salamiah, who is said to have taken refuge on the island and transformed into a fairy.

View of Tun Sakaran Marine Park from the top of Boheydulang Island. These islands were used to be part of an ancient volcano rim

The climb to the top of Boheydulang Island takes about 45 minutes

Boardwalk of the jetty on Boheydulang Island

This spot is a turtle highway of Tun Sakaran Marine Park

Tun Sakaran Marine Park is the second largest marine park of Sabah

To soak in the island’s unparalleled beauty, embark on a 45-minute hike to the summit of Boheydulang, towering approximately 353 meters above sea level. The panoramic scenery from the summit is truly unforgettable, making Boheydulang one of the most sought-after destinations in Semporna, often hailed as the Maldives of Southeast Asia. Read more…

9. Kinabatangan River

Stretching an impressive 560 kilometers, the Kinabatangan River holds the distinction of being Malaysia’s second-longest river. Meandering from the heart of Sabah to its eastern coast, this river nourishes vast expanses of Borneo rainforest, including ox-bow lakes, mangroves, and wetlands. It’s a realm inhabited by a rich array of Borneo’s iconic wildlife, including orangutans, proboscis monkeys, crocodiles, sun bears, and pygmy elephants.

A herd of proboscis monkey on the tree

Kinabatangan River and an Oxbow Lake

Pygmy elephant is the smallest elephant in the world

Morning river cruise in the misty Kinabatangan River

A forest lodge next to Kinabatangan River (with air-conditioning!)

Embark on a tranquil boat ride during the morning or dusk hours, and you’ll witness wildlife bustling along the riverbanks, showcasing their natural behaviors. Bird enthusiasts flock here to capture images of unique avian species such as hornbills, kingfishers, and oriental darters. Spotting rare birds like the Pitta, Bornean Ground Cuckoo, Storm’s Stork, and Bornean Bristlehead is considered a prized achievement, akin to discovering a hidden treasure. Read more…

10. Mari-Mari Cultural Village

After having so much fun with nature attractions, most tourists miss out on the important part of the Borneo experience – the colorful Borneo cultures. The Mari-Mari Cultural Village fills in the gap by showcasing the captivating traditions and customs of the five main tribes of Sabah. All of this is done in a village complex surrounded by rainforest with authentic traditional settings.

Asking the Borneo headhunter for permission to enter Mari-Mari Cultural Village. This is just part of the acting.

Sampling the freshly cooked local food (Kuih Jala)

Visit the longhouse of Mari-Mari Cultural Village

Tourists trying the bamboo dance

Colourful dais for wedding couples of Bajau

In just half a day, visitors can get a glimpse of the traditional lifestyle of our natives. Moving from one traditional house to another, you can sample some local food and drink of the Bajau, known as the Cowboys of the East, see how the vest of a Murut warrior is made from tree bark, play traditional games, observe the skill of starting a fire and hunting with a blowpipe, and participate in a bamboo dance. Read more…

Others / Special Interest

No matter what your interests may be, Sabah offers something special for everyone. Here are a few more recommended attractions tailored to suit various visitor preferences.

Islands: see Top 10 islands of Sabah
Family: Manukan Island, DESA Dairy Farm, North Borneo Railway, Sabah Tea Garden, Teck Guan Cocoa Village, Gaya Street Sunday Market, Sunset Cruise, Upside Down House, Poring Hot Springs
Hiking: Kinabalu Park, Tawai Waterfall, Aura Montoria, Maliau Basin, Mount Wullersdorf, Long Pasia, Kiulu Rainforest Park, Rainforest Discovery Centre, Sepilok Laut, Bukit Botak, Tawau Hills Park, Poring Hot Springs
Honeymoon: Mataking Island, Kapalai Island, Lankayan Island, Gaya Island Resort, Mabul Water Bungalow
Wildlife: Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Center, Bornean Sunbear Conservation Centre, Kinabatangan River, Klias Wetland, Selingan Turtle Island, Danum Valley, Tabin Wildlife Reserve, Lok Kawi Wildlife Park
Birdwatching: Kinabalu Park, Rainforest Discovery Centre, Danum Valley, Tabin Wildlife Reserve, Crocker Range Park, Kinabatangan River, Poring Hot Springs, Borneo Jungle Girl Camp
Scuba Diving: Sipadan Island, Mabul, Kapalai Island, Blue Holes, Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, Layang-Layang Island
Adventures: Padas River White Water Rafting, Long Pasia, Maliau Basin, Via Ferrata, Miki Survival Camp, Paragliding, Pulau Tiga, Boat ride to Kalimantan, Imbak Canyon
Culture: Tamu Market, Mari-Mari Cultural Village, Kaamatan Festival (May), Regatta Lepa, Kota Belud Tamu Besar, Bajau Sama Cultural Centre, Kalimaran Festival
History: Sabah Museum, Pogunon Museum, KK City Tour, Sandakan Heritage Walk, Kundasang War Memorial, Sandakan Memorial Park, Skull Hill (Bukit Tengkorak)
Botanical Gardens: Sabah Agriculture Park, Mount Kinabalu Botanical Garden, Rafflesia Information Centre, Rainforest Discovery Centre
Camping: Polumpung Melangkap View Camp Site, Tegudon Tourism Village, Hounon Ridge, Kokol MamaHill Campsite, Secret Place, Hawun Valley
Mountain Climbing: Mount Kinabalu, Mount Trus Madi, Maragang Hill, Batu Punggul Pinnacle, Boheydulang Island, Bongol Hill and more…
Gastronomic: Kota Belud Tamu, Sandakan, Api-Api Night Food Market (Fri & Sat night), My Native Cafe
Photography: Mount Kinabalu, Tun Sakaran Marine Park, Kinabatangan River, Kampung Sangkir
Entomology: Borneo Jungle Girl Camp, Crocker Range Park

Aura Montoria, the Rock Garden of Mount Kinabalu

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Aura Montoria is touted as one of Sabah’s top hiking spots, and after experiencing it firsthand, I don’t think it’s overrated. Hiking here offers an incredible opportunity to immerse in Borneo’s diverse landscapes. Beyond a mere walk, it’s an exciting exploration of caves, rock formations, rivers, waterfalls, ponds, and lush rainforests—truly a collection of natural wonders waiting to be discovered.

You like the element of soil, rock, water or wood? You can enjoy all these nature wonders in Aura Montoria.

About Aura Montoria

You might know about the Kinabalu Park HQ situated on Mount Kinabalu‘s southern side, easily reachable from Kundasang. However, tucked behind Malaysia’s highest peak lies Aura Montoria to the north, an enchanting hilly terrain located in Kampung Sayap (Kampung means Village) of Kota Belud, and part of the 4,750 km² Kinabalu UNESCO Global Geopark. It’s just a stone’s throw away from the Sayap Substation, snugly positioned on the west side of Kinabalu Park.

The cavities in sandstone structure create many natural caves and ponds in Aura Montoria

Aura Montoria owes its name to a winding tree vine known as Pokok Ponoriawon by the Dusun Tindal people. This vine, adorned with long thorns, grows along the riverbank, drawing a variety of birds during its flowering season. The locals named the area Montoria, a shortened version of Pokok Ponoriawon. Enchanted by its beauty, they added “Aura” to create Aura Montoria, capturing the site’s radiant charm.

Aura Montoria is rich in flora too, e.g. begonia, bark-less eucalyptus tree, jewel orchid, and tampoi fruit in this picture

A Geotourism Destination

Couples always promise to each other, “I will love you to the time of the seas run dry and the rocks crumble,” as if such changes are impossible. But Aura Montoria will prove them wrong. Here, among the rolling hills and rock fragments, you’ll find evidence of a time when this land lay beneath the sea, some 20 million years ago. The geological morphology of the Aura Montoria is mainly featured by sedimentary rocks from the Crocker Formation, formed in a deep-sea basin during the middle Oligocene to early Miocene period, roughly 28 to 23 million years ago.

Aura Montoria was under the sea more than 20 million years ago

Around 17 to 10 million years ago, a tectonic collision uplifted most parts of Sabah, including Aura Montoria. This followed by geological processes like folding and faulting, raising the sandstones and shales of Aura Montoria’s sedimentary layers to the surface. Over millions of years, erosion and compaction shaped these deposits, forming the striking ridges, valleys, and unique rock formations that grace Aura Montoria today.

The landscape of Aura Montoria is dominated by sedimentary rocks such as sandstones, shales, and conglomerate that were deposited in the ancient seabed more than 20 million years ago. They look like compacted rocks glued by cement.

Granite boulders and rock walls dot this area, likely carried by glaciers from Mount Kinabalu to the foothills near Aura Montoria. Therefore, hikers will find fascination in the remnants of an ancient ocean floor and traces from the Pleistocene Ice Age, dating back millions of years.

Starting point of hiking in Aura Montoria. The 6-km trail takes about 6 hours to finish (include lunch and break)

Hiking (A Walk-Through)

The hiking trail spans a 6-kilometer loop, winding through varied and uneven terrain where the flowing rivers and waterfalls shower you with negative ions, the forest fills your lungs with fresh air, and sunlight provides a serotonin boost. All these combine to energize you and uplift your mood. Given the prevalent depression among younger generations, it’s no surprise that hashtags like silent walking, soft hiking, and rucking are trending in the Gen Z community. Visit Aura Montoria, I would advise them.

The hike typically lasts around 6 hours at a leisurely pace. The trail poses a moderate challenge to beginners, involving some scrambling and balancing over rocks and roots along slopes situated between 200 to 400 meters above sea level. While leeches aren’t commonly encountered, parts of the trail can be slippery, making sturdy hiking shoes crucial. Carrying mosquito repellent is essential for a more comfortable hike.

Briefing by our guide, Kunan, at the registration hut before the hike. There are a few simple toilets. You can change your cloth and take a shower there after the hike.

We met our guides (Kunan and Kiwi) at the registration hut inside a village plantation, for a short briefing before our hike began at 8:30 am (finishing around 2:30 pm). The first part of the trail is a pleasant one-kilometre walk through the countryside. In just 15 minutes, we passed through rubber and pineapple plantations and made our way downhill to a resting hut by the river, which is where the loop trail starts and ends.

Hanging Bridge

As we crossed the suspension bridge, I was impressed by the pristine river underneath, a tributary of the Wariu River that eventually merges with the Kadamaian River downstream—this is one of Kota Belud’s biggest rivers. Reports indicate it’s a class I river in terms of water quality, and rich in oxygen. It’s a refreshing spot, with temperatures hovering around a cool 25-27°C, perfect for a revitalizing shower after a lengthy hike.

Left: the hut is the starting point of the loop trail. Right: the river under suspension bridge is a great spot to take shower after a long hike

Lion Rock (Batu Gung-Gung Cha)

Following a brief ascent over a small hill known as the “Path of One Thousand Steps,” we encountered the first marvel: the Lion Rock. Locally referred to as Batu Gung-Gung Cha (Batu means Rock), this rock formation likely earned its name due to its resemblance to a lion and its association with the resounding tones of gongs and cymbals.

The Lion Rock (Batu Gung-Gung Cha) that reminds us of the noisy lion dance

Tree Hole (Pokok Tomboilik)

As the deafening chirps of cicadas and the lively calls of birds surrounded us, it was evident we’d ventured into the jungle—a regenerated secondary rainforest in good condition, thanks to the dense canopy providing ample shade that shields us from the sun. A highlight of the trek was squeezing through a tree hole in a giant tree known as Pokok Tomboilik. Just a heads-up, if you’re a bigger person with a hefty backpack, you might get stuck in the hole.

Left: passing through a big tree hole. Right: The Mouth Cave looks like a dinosaur head from this angle

Mouth Cave (Gua Mulut)

Our next destination was quite a sight—a massive overhanging cave resembling the head of a dinosaur when seen from a certain angle. This cave is just one of many hidden within the area, adding to its allure as a fascinating geological site boasting various cave formations.

Gua Mulut (Mouth Cave) is an overhanging cave that resembles a big mouth

Natural Spring Water (Waig Minorol)

Close to the Mouth Cave, there are freshwater springs with water oozing out of the rocks. The sandstone, which is an excellent aquifer due to its high porosity and permeability, functions as groundwater reservoir that never run dry even during dry spells. I had a sip, and the mineral-rich water tasted wonderfully fresh, cool, and clean—no strange odors at all.

The spring water from the sandstone never dries up even during drought

Wongking Cave

Along the trail, we encountered stunning rock walls formed from conglomerate—a mix of sedimentary rocks in various sizes and shapes glued together by finer materials such as sand, silt, or clay. Some of these formations were covered with epiliths such as white mold and green mosses, adding to their beauty.

Left: Entering Wongking Cave. You need a LED headlamp for caving. Right: conglomerate rock wall

Descending into the depths, we ventured into the dark Wongking Cave. With our guides leading the way, both ahead and behind us, we felt safe exploring the underground cave. Don’t forget to bring a LED headlamp or flashlight for your caving adventure.

Rock Pond (Liogu Ourod)

This is the highlight I was most excited about. The oval-shaped rock pond is fed by a mountain stream and takes on a mesmerizing emerald hue when sunlight dances upon its surface. It resembles the mythical magic pool believed to restore youth to those who drink or bathe in its waters. Be careful when you move around there because the rock surface is very slippery.

Liogu Ourod, the natural rock pond filled with mountain water

Bat Cave (Gua Pungit)

Venturing into another mountain cave, we discovered a stream flowing within. Natural light poured in through the cave’s opening on top, which also served as an entrance and exit for its inhabitants, like bats. Making the exploration easier, there were ropes and ladders available to facilitate movement in and out of the cave.

The Bat Cave with an underground stream

Waterfall Cave (Wasai ID Gua)

Each cave here holds its own surprises, and this one didn’t disappoint, featuring a hidden waterfall. No matter how scorching the day, this cooling cave provides the perfect refuge. With numerous caves and pristine water sources, I can’t help but wonder if cavemen once called this place home. To top it off, this cave even boasts a pond teeming with fishes.

Waterfall in a cave. There are many fishes in the pond. You can bring some pellets to feed them.

Lookout Point (Pogimpaan Ko-Duo)

Ok enough with dark caves, next we ascended higher ground where a viewpoint platform awaited. The sight of the lush forest and rolling hills was simply breathtaking. The gentle breeze was incredibly calming, prompting us to pause for a snack break on the wooden platform. It’s about 11am so we were a bit hungry.

Climbing to the lookout point on the hill. The trail is quite steep.

Marathon Trail via Rock Walls

Following a short rest, we headed down to the valley, tracing our path alongside rock walls. Among the rugged conglomerate formations, I spotted creamy rock walls composed of granite. These walls, formed from solidified molten rock that intruded into the ancient sediments, serve as reminders of tectonic activities here.

Sandstone and granite rock walls of Aura Montoria

Riverside Camp

Finally, we reached the camp next to a tranquil river with a rocky bed, where we indulged in linopot lunch (rice wrapped in leaves). A few unique butterflies, including the iconic Rajah Birdwing, fluttered about the riverbank. This spot offers camping, swimming, and tubing activities, and you can throw a BBQ party.

River campsite and linopot (rice wrapped in leaf). Basic camping amenities such as tables and toilets are available here.

Nature enthusiasts will find themselves captivated by Aura Montoria’s diverse landscapes. Keep an eye out for its rich flora, such as begonias and orchids, which are among the highlights. While most people relaxed at the camp, some enjoyed a free fish massage from the docile mahseer (Local Name: Ikan Kelah).

The river and mahseer fishes (Species: Tor duoronensis) at the campsite

Green Lake (Liogu Otomou)

The adventure isn’t quite done yet! Our final destination is the Green Lake, a serene pond embraced by whitish boulders, with a depth of about 10 feet. For those seeking an extra adrenaline rush at the tail end of a long hike, you can take a leap into the river from higher ground nearby.

Liogu Otomou, a green lake-like river zone enclosed by rocky riverbank

How to Get There

Aura Montoria (see Location Map) is situated in Kampung Sayap, approximately 26 kilometers from Kota Belud, famously known as the Cowboy Town of Sabah. The journey from Kota Kinabalu City (KK) to Kota Belud, around an hour by car, is easily accessible via highways and paved roads. However, the 27-kilometer stretch from Kota Belud to Aura Montoria is predominantly gravel and dirt roads, making a 4-wheel-drive preferable as it can be challenging for sedan or saloon cars to traverse.

Fruit stall at the roadside of Kampung Sayap. You would find durian and tarap during fruiting season.

If you’re traveling from KK, expect a journey of over two hours. During the durian fruiting season (around August and September), if you’re a durian lover, plan for additional travel time as you might be tempted to stop in Kampung Sayap to shop for cheap durian, pineapples, and tarap. Hence, staying overnight in a nearby homestay like Porohon Garden Lodge is highly recommended. This way, you can avoid the rush and enjoy a leisurely start to your adventure without the need for a long early morning drive.

About Kampung Sayap

The majority of Kampung Sayap’s population comprises the Dusun Tindal community, mainly engaged in farming activities. Originally known as Kampung Minangkob, the name translates to “valley surrounded by hills.” Many years ago, a British military officer visited the village, he rested by a river that was nearly covered with dry leaves because of the drought that time.

Dog and cat of Kampung Sayap. In the photos are Si Putih (dog) and Stim (cat), they love durian. Here are the proof of Si Putih and Stim eating durians (click the links for video)

Then the British asked a villager, “what is the word for dry leaves in Dusun language?” The villager replied that it was “sahap” (dry leaves). Unfortunately, the officer misheard sahap as sayap (which means wings in English) and document it in his diary. Due to that incident, Kampung Minangkob was renamed to Kampung Sayap.

A friendly villager and her dog on the way to their farm in a lovely morning. Note the traditional wakid bamboo baskets in the car and the durian plantation behind them.

Fees and Contacts

The half-day, 6-kilometer hiking tour is priced at RM35 per person for locals and RM80 per person for non-Malaysians. For a group of up to 5 people, the guide fee per group is RM50 for locals and RM100 for non-Malaysians. Food is not included in the cost (but available as an add-on). If needed, you can hire a porter at a rate of RM5 per kilogram to carry your belongings.

Butterflies at the river of Aura Montoria. Left: Terinos clarissa praestigiosa, Right: Bornean Straight Pierrot (Caleta manovus)

A local guide is mandatory for hiking in Aura Montoria. To inquire about updated rates or book a hiking trip in Aura Montoria, you can contact the operator through the following channels:
Phone (Whatsapp): +60-136262793 (Madam Sandra Idiam), +60-189650079 (Madam Rina Maratun)
Facebook: Aura Montoria Eko-Edu Tourism Kg Sayap Kota Belud Sabah

Things to Bring

Having the following items handy will ensure a more comfortable and enjoyable hiking experience at Aura Montoria! The most important of all is to wear the right hiking gear: quick-dry clothes and good hiking shoes.

Backpack
Drinking Water
Raincoat / Poncho
Insect Repellent
Sunblock Lotion / Spray
Snacks / Energy Bar
Swimwear / Sarong
Extra clothing and towel
Hiking pole
Plastic Bag for soiled clothing
Cash
Optional: dry bag, portable power bank, hat

You can rent walking sticks, swimming goggles, Adidas Kampung (waterproof rubber shoes for hiking) for a small fee.

Walking sticks and Adidas Kampung shoes for rent. Adidas Kampung is made of rubber and waterproof, it’s the favourite hiking shoes of locals because it works well on muddy and slippery ground.

Special thanks to Puan Rina Maratun for sharing the backstories of Aura Montoria and Kampung Sayap. I also refer to the book “A Scientific Journey Through Borneo; Sayap-Kinabalu Park Sabah” written by ISMAIL, Ghazally; BIN DIN, Laily and published in 1995.

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Climbing Mount Wullersdorf, the Land of Crystals and Red River

Imagine you are an adventurer in a role-playing game and given a quest that says, “Find the magic crystals on an extinct volcano mountain, where you will traverse through a dwarf forest with blood-red rivers, mossy rocks and flesh-eating plants.” This scene matches Mount Wullersdorf perfectly. Time for me to walk out of my virtual world and steps into the uncharted territory in Mount Wullersdorf as a real adventurer.

The reddish tea colour stream in Wullersdorf forest is the result of the tanning effect leached out from the thick dead leaves and debris that cover the heath forest ﬂoor. The water is acidic but safe to drink.

In terms of geology and vegetation, Mount Wullersdorf is special because it is:-

An extinct volcano, a geological heritage of Sabah
Heath forest with red river and rare plants
A world of natural crystals in Sabah

From left: volcanic rocks, crystals and pitcher plant of Mount Wullersdorf

Itinerary

The following is the itinerary of climbing Mount Wullersdorf. It is a day trip with a hiking distance of 7 kilometres. You must book the tour in advance.
7:30am Gather at Dewan Kampung Balung Cocos (Tawau)
8:00am Depart to the Control Post (Sabah Forestry Department) of Wullersdorf, the starting point of the climb
8:30am Start climbing after registration and briefing
9:30am-10:00am Reach the first peak after 30-40 min (2 km)
11:00am-12:00pm Reach the second peak (Wullersdorf Peak) after 4 km. Rest and lunch on summit
1:00pm Hike back to the Control Post via shortcut (1 km for 40 min)
2:30pm End of tour

Walk-through

Are you ready for the epic quest adventurer? Or you can watch the 6-minute video below:

The height of Mount Wullersdorf is 430 metres (1,411 ft) above sea level. The one-way distance to the highest peak is 6 kilometres, which takes about 3 to 4 hours. There is a 1-kilometre shortcut from the peak back to the starting point, so in total it’s a 7-km loop trail.

Going to the Starting Point

Mount Wullersdorf is located in a Class-1 (fully protected) forest in Kunak (Tawau Division). To enter the mountain, you need a permit from the Sabah Forestry Department. So I get a local agent who can get the permit and arrange the climbing trip for me. Just a few messages back and forth with the agent and I get the booking done. Easy.

Hop on the pick up truck that sent us to the starting point about 15 minutes away

I meet my guides at Dewan Balung Cocos (Balung Cocos Village Community Hall) around 7:30am. Mr. Eady and Pakri are my guides, who live in this village. Also joining me are Mr. Aidil and Ms Zura, the hikers from Tawau. It’s drizzling in the morning. I’m concern about the gloomy weather but Pakri says that the red river is more beautiful when it has more water.

The Control Post of Mt. Wullersdorf Forest Reserve is the starting point of our climb to Wullersdorf Peak. Visitors need to register before the hike. You can be fined RM10,000 for illegal entry.

We hop on our pick-up truck to depart to the starting point of the climb. It’s a bumpy ride on a gravel road in an oil palm plantation. After 10 to 15 minutes, we reach the control post of Sabah Forestry Department. Besides us, there is team of 20 members from Lahad Datu Hash House guided by another agent, Uncle Mul.

About Wullersdorf

Mount Wullersdorf is part of Mount Wullersdorf Forest Reserve, which is 8,137 hectares in size. It’s linked with five other adjacent forest reserves to form a 64,953.74 Ha of Ulu Kalumpang-Wullersdorf Sustainable Forest Management (SFM) Project. The Class-1 Ulu Kalumpang Forest Reserve which covers an area of 50,736 hectares is the biggest forest reserve under this project. This SFM Project is certified by the Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC) as a well-managed forest.

Mount Wullersdorf Forest Reserve is a fully protected Class-1 forest. Government and WWF is trying to restore the degraded and fragmented forest to re-establish forest connectivity between Mt. Wullersdorf and Ulu Kalumpang Forest Reserves, so wildlife can move freely in the connected forests for more resources.

These forest reserves are also the habitat of threatened animals in Borneo such as orangutan, Bornean Pygmy Elephant, Bornean Sun Bear and Bornean Gibbon. Iconic birds like hornbills and Crested Fireback also nest there. Under good conservation, the mountains also protect the headwaters and water catchment areas that are source of water for Tawau and Kunak Districts. The rangers there also mention the sighting of a golden rat (I assume it’s a Malayan weasel or Yellow Throated Marten), and the tracks of a baby Sumatran rhino many years ago. Sadly this rhino species is declared extinct in the wild in Malaysia in 2015.

0 to 2 KM

After registration and briefing, we start to hike at 8:30am. FYI, you can use the toilet at the control post before and after the climb. The first 250 metres is a walk on flat ground covered with tall grasses and shrubs. About 10 minutes later we reach a manmade pond, which marks the start of the loop trail at foothill.

The first 250 metres of the hike. We started walking at 8:30am.

The trees are tall in the beginning and their dense canopy blocks the rain. I see a green path ahead. It’s a rugged riverbed trail littered with green mossy rocks, with red-colored stream flowing between them. The red water and green rock form a very striking contrast, the scenery is out of this world. No wonder they call it the “Lost World of Balung“.

The green mossy rocks and red streams form beautiful contrast along the trail

We climb up and down on these mossy rocks to ascend. Some of the rocks are slippery. It will help a lot if your hiking shoes have good grip, because most of the time we walk on river rocks. Overall, the trail is not really steep, but climbing hundred of rocks will slow you down. I’m the slowest one as I’m already too busy taking pictures in the first two kilometres.

Red River (Local Name: Sungai Merah)

This side of Mount Wullersdorf is dominated by heath forest, which grows on sandy soil with poor nutrients. With infertile environment, plants in heath forest are usually rich in tannins as a defense, which make them toxic or indigestible to plant eaters.

Over 50% of the trail is moving up along a river that is full of mossy boulders with tea-color stream flowing between them.

However, tannin is hard to break down. When water drains through thick dead leaves and debris that cover the forest ﬂoor, the tannins and humic acids leach through the porous sandy substrate, finding their way into streams, and dye the water with brownish tea color.

Foaming on the streams is common, due to the saponin and humic composition in the water

Such tea-colored water is also well-known for its foaming nature, probably due to the saponin and humic composition originated from the peat of heath forest. The water is a bit acidic but safe to drink after boiling.

Zura blowing the foam of red river for fun, as if she is in a bubble bath.

We are excited to see a few river rocks that have cracks with crystals inside them. The guides say there are more crystals on Wullersdorf Peak.

Crystals embedded in a river rock

First Peak

There are two peaks to conquer in our climb. The first peak is only 2 km away. When the peak is getting near, we move away from the river trail and walk up a slope with mild steepness. I notice there are some whitish volcanic rocks on the higher ground. We arrive the first peak at 10am.

An Ancient Volcano

Mount Wullersdorf is an extinct volcano. Such volcanic landscape is only found in Southeastern part of Sabah, where volcanic eruption occurred between 1 to 9 million years ago. Even today we can find the remnants of volcanism in Sabah such as Columnar Basalt at Balung River (Tawau) and Bohey Dulang Island in Semporna.

A tree full of pitcher plant before the first peak. You can easily tell that they are Nepenthes reinwardtiana by the two dots on their inner walls.

From Miocene to late Pleistocene, a series of volcanisms creates the major mountainous backbone of the Tawau mountains, which include Mount Wullersdorf, Mount Maria, and Bombalai Hill. The earlier volcanic rocks of andesitic and dacitic composition formed a line of composite volcanoes from Mount Magdalena to Mount Wullersdorf and Mount Pock at Semporna District.

Picture of the first Wullersdorf Peak and a barkless tree nearby

Most climbers wouldn’t realise that Mount Wullersdorf is an extinct volcano since most of the traces and features of volcanism are covered up by dense forest nowadays. I wonder how many people know there are at least 10 extinct volcanoes in Tawau.

Two variants of Nepenthes ampullaria near the peak of Wullersdorf. These cute pitcher plants have wide open mouth to collect leaf debris as nutrients.

Anyway, it’s easy to spot many pitcher plants around the first peak. Nepenthes ampullaria likes to grow in damp area under trees, where it can collect leaf debris as food with its wide open mouth. Nepenthes reinwardtiana (green variant) is another common pitcher plant on this mountain.

2rd to 6th KM

After a short break on the first peak we proceed to the second peak about 4 km away. The trail between the first and second peak is mainly jungle trail with more even surface, which I enjoy more. The peak area is heath forest, a forest type that covers only 2 to 3% of Borneo island, the home to the largest heath forests in Southeast Asia.

Milestone signages that tell us how many metres we have walked. The words are misleading because they make it sounds like a count down, which is not.

Heath Forest (Kerangas)

In contrast to the typical Borneo rainforest with towering trees, heath forests are characterized by shorter, pole-sized trees that are mostly lower than 20 metres with a stem diameter of 10-20 cm. The short-statured trees are a result of inherently infertile, acidic, white sandy soils.

Tropical heath forest of Wullersdorf forest. The soil is sandy and infertile so the vegetation is thinner.

The Iban people of Sarawak call heath forests as “Kerangas”, which means “forest with underlying soils that cannot grow rice”. Only specialized plants can survive such soils with poor nutrients. Though the plant diversity of heath forest is lower than rainforest, it has higher numbers of rare and endemic tree species with high conservation value.

Rhododendron flowers and an unknown fruit on the peak of Wullersdorf

Borneo has the widest variety of heath forest in Asia. Lowland heath forests (below 1,000 metres above sea level) like Wullersdorf are found inland on sandstone plateaus and cuesta formations on the hillsides.

Last 500 metres to the peak of Wullersdorf. The trees become smaller as we moved up.

The surrounding is lit because the small-crowned trees there don’t obstruct much sunlight. The higher the ground, the smaller the trees, to almost shrub-like. We walk in dense thickets of tidy straight bole stem trees with stunted appearance. The forest floor is criss-crossed by tangled roots, making the ground soft to walk on.

Approaching the peak of Wullersdorf, which is dominated by heath forest (kerangas)

One of the special trees we see is Tristaniopsis trees, easy to identify by its orange-brown, smooth and shiny trunk, with scrolls of bark that spontaneously peel-off, hanging as untidy bunches along the trunk and forming a heap at the base of the tree. The forest is quiet. We hear a few hornbills flying over the canopy.

Wullersdorf Peak (Height: 430 Metres)

As we are approaching the second peak, the trees getting sparse, more sandy soil is exposed and the ground is more rocky. Finally we reach Wullersdorf Peak by noon. It’s a rocky peak surrounded by loud cicada calls and greyish volcanic rocks.

We reached the Wullersdorf Peak at noon. The height of Mount Wullersdorf is about 430 metres (1,411 ft) above sea level.

We spend on summit to have our lunch. I decide to explore around the peak as the understory of heath forest is often filled with remarkable plant species.

Pitcher Plant and Ant Plant

Forests thrive on two primary nutrients: nitrogen and phosphorus, what the kerangas is lack of. Under nutrient-deficient environment, carnivorous pitcher plants survive by trapping and digesting insects for additional nutrition.

Different species of pitcher plant on Wullersdorf Peak. From the left: Nepenthes reinwardtiana (red variant), Nepenthes veitchii, Nepenthes ampullaria and Nepenthes gracilis

Uncle Mul told me that there are seven species of pitcher plant in Wullersdorf. I found Nepenthes ampullaria, Nepenthes reinwardtiana (red and green variants) and Nepenthes veitchii (endemic to Borneo).

Dischidia, aka Ant Plant. The pouch-like things are the modified leaves that are hollow inside for ants to nest, so the plant can absorb their waste as nutrients. This is a symbiotic relationship between ants and plant.

Instead of preying on insects, ant-plants choose to work with insects and build a symbiotic relationship with ants. I find a few green and yellow epiphytic ant-plants (Dischidia major) twine around the branches of trees. These ant-plants possess pouch-like modified leaves with hollow inside that acts as a shelter for ants. In exchange for the accommodation, the ants provide the plants with nitrogen-rich debris and feces.

Staghorn ferns of the peak of Wullersdorf Peak. It’s known as Tanduk Rusa (means Deer’s antler), an expensive ornamental plant. Pakri says it’s his first time seeing this fern in Wullersdorf.

Wild staghorn ferns and rhododendron flowers are my other favourite sighting in this kerangas garden. I’m sure there are more to see if I stay longer.

Crystals and Gold of Wullersdorf

The most fascinating feature of Wullersdorf are the crystal rocks, which are abundant on the peak. Quite a number of rocks there are embedded with translucent white and pinkish crystals of different shapes and sizes. I also find many crystal fragments on the ground. I never see anything like this in other places of Sabah.

Pitcher plant growing on a crystal rock

Some believe that crystals have healing powers and able to boost your mood. I don’t know if it’s true. But if you give me crystals, I’ll be in good mood. Don’t worry. I only photograph them and didn’t take any.

Big chunks of crystals on the peak. One has heart shape, some are pink colour and some covered by lichen.

In nature, crystal can form when magma cools and hardens. This glittering beauty is another evidence that proves Mount Wullersdorf was used to be a volcano. Scientists say volcanic crystals is a time capsule of eruption history. Hope we will learn more about this geotourism destination from its crystals.

Crystals are everywhere on Wullersdorf Peak. I took many pictures but didn’t bring home any crystal.

Wait, Wullersdorf has another fabulous mineral, GOLD. It’s estimated that about 30 tons of gold and 19 tons of silver are buried under a parcel of land about 948 hectares in the Mount Wullersdorf area. Well, we better don’t create another disaster like Mamut copper mine.

Return to Starting Point

After taking zillion of photos, I leave Wullersdorf Peak reluctantly. It’s a relief that we don’t need to turn back to the starting point using the same 6-km trail. We use the 1-kilometre shortcut to return to the starting point.

Left: a tree with big buttress at the foothill. Right: thorny chestnuts strewn on the forest floor

The descending trail takes about 40 minutes and it is the steepest part of the climb. Luckily there are some rope support for us to move down safely because part of the trail is quite slippery. We arrive foothill before 2pm as planned. I would say Wullersdorf Peak is one of the best hiking trails in Sabah. FYI, after the climb many hikers take a dip at the river of Batu Bersusun, the only Columnar Basalt in Malaysia, which is only 5 minutes away from Dewan Balung Cocos.

Is Mount Wullersdorf Hard to Climb?

The climbing trail to Wullersdorf Peak is not too steep and difficult, even for beginners. If you do workout regularly, it’s fairly easy. To experienced hikers, it’s just a long hike. The main challenge is to climb over the slippery rocks about half of the time. Wearing a good pair of hiking shoes can make a huge difference. It’s a bonus if the shoes are waterproof too, though you won’t walk in water.

A big and black lichen which is made up from algae and fungus. It only grows in pollution-free environment.

No rope support, stairway and hand rail are available for the first 6 kilometres. Some steep sections in the last 1-km descend have rope support. You would want to wear gloves for roping. Anti-leech socks are not necessary unless you can’t tolerate leech bite at all. According to the guides, for every 20 people, there might be only one or two of them might get leech bite, as leech (pacat) is not common there.

Cooling off in a pond after the climb. The forest of Wullersdorf is warm and humid.

The forest of Wullersdorf is warm and humid, wearing T-shirt and hiking pants is good enough (preferably quick dry). Drinking water is the most important. I finished 1.2 Litre of water. The summit has limited shade to protect you from afternoon sunlight, apply sunscreen if required.

Things to Bring

Backpack
Raincoat or poncho
Water (at least 1 Litre)
Energy bar or snacks
Packed lunch
Toilet paper
Camera

Optional

Gloves
Sunscreen lotion / spray
Foldable hiking stick
Anti-leech socks
Insect repellent
Towel and spare clothing (for swimming or changing after hike)
Personal medicine

How to Book

Only two agents are allowed to bring tourists to Wullersdorf Peak. You can contact one of them below.

1) Biro Pelancongan Koperasi

Phone (Whatsapp): +60 11-35485773, +60 10-9540209 (Pakri and Eady)
Facebook: Wullersdorf Peak

2) Uncle Mul

Phone (Whatsapp): +60 19-8233896

I booked with Biro Pelancongan Koperasi. The fee is RM35 per person but requires a booking of minimum 10 people (or you can pay more). The fee includes permit (to enter forest reserve), vehicle transfer, guide, and certificate. The gathering point is in Kampung Balung Cocos (see Location Map), a village about 14 km from Tawau airport.

References

“Geological heritage features of Tawau volcanic sequence, Sabah.” Sanudin Tahir, Baba Musta & Ismail Abd Rahim. Bulletin of the Geological Society of Malaysia 56 (2010) 79 – 85
Annual Report 2022 by Sabah Forestry Department
Ulu Kalumpang-Wullersdorf Sustainable Forest Management (SFM) Project
Proposed gold mining in Balung Participate in review of draft TOR, folks urged, Daily Express, 13 Feb 2015

Photos taken in Tawau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Pungiton Cave, a gift from fairy

Why I have poop on my bed if I’m in a dream of taking a dump, but wake up empty-handed when I dream about treasure? I’m so envy of Aki Korom, who was really getting something priceless, as promised in his dream. This is a true story happened in Sapulut, a district in the interior of Sabah.

The Discovery of Pungiton Cave

More than 50 years ago, the young Aki Korom was sleeping near the river with a few friends. In his dream, a tall man approached him and said, “come, let me show you something interesting.” Aki Korom followed him and they reached a large cave. The fairy said, “if you can find this cave, it’s yours to own.” He added, “however, there is a dragon guardian looks after this cave. You must not cause a ripple in the river when you go to the cave, or you will awaken the lurking dragon.” Aki Korom waked up and felt the dream was so real. His friends didn’t have the same dream though.

Boat transfer to Pungiton Camp from Labang Village in Sapulut

Aki Korom believed in what he dreamed and decided to locate the hidden cave. He went with a boat. A big log in the river was blocking his way. He remembered what the tall man taught, so he dragged the boat to move pass it quietly, without disturbing the dragon in the water. After some search in the forest, he found the limestone cave, which is the Pungiton Cave today. The cave was abundant with edible bird nests and big mushroom!

Pungiton Cave is named after bats, which are abundant inside the cave. But no Batman in this batcave.

Pungiton means bat in Murut language because this cave has a lot of bats. Pungiton Cave is still a secretive cave even after half a century of its discovery. Though its location is no longer a secret, nobody is able to reach the end of this cave, according to some villagers who have spent two or three days exploring deep in the cave before. Some say Pungiton Cave may link to another cave system on the opposite side of the hill. Instead of two days, I spent only 2 hours to explore Pungiton Cave but already impressed by its rich variety of cave features.

Pungiton Cave is like an isolated temple frozen in time. Cave always appears in adventure and horror stories. More than half of the windfall treasures in movies are found in a cave.

Aki Korom had a big heart. He was willing to share the cave with other villagers. He also turned down an offer by a mining company that wanted to quarry the limestone. I guess that’s why the fairy chose him.

You can watch this 4-minute video to hear and see everything in motions.

Overall, Pungiton Cave is a pristine and marvelous cave to explore. The caving experience there is 100% nature and you can check out various interesting rock formations closely. No creepy bug crawling all over the cave and no foul smell. Majority of the trail is soil ground or uneven surface scattered with debris, not difficult for beginners to walk on. The only so-called challenging part is climbing up a 20-feet slope with a rope.

Left: me exploring Pungiton Cave in the dark. Right: Flowstones, sheets of calcium carbonate on the cave walls

Pungiton Cave is a multi-levelled limestone cave. Hiring a guide is a must so you won’t lose your way in the cave. We start by exploring the wet cave in lower level then move up to the dry cave. It takes only 15 to 20 minutes to walk to the cave entrance from our camp (Pungiton Camp).

Underground Water Cave

At the the cave entrance, I already can hear the running water below. It’s a 20-meter descend via a narrow hole. The sound of water is getting louder, then we reach a winding cave tunnel with a running stream, a characteristics of aquatic or wet cave. Walking in the long and narrow tunnel in a wet cave is like navigating inside the body of a giant snake.

Hiking 15 minutes to the Pungiton Cave in tropical rainforest. I see many limestones along the trail. Leech may present.

Don’t freak out with the idea of walking in a cave filled with water. In normal days, the water in Pungiton Cave only reaches my knee at most. The deepest it can go is up to waist level during rainy season. The guides would skip the wet cave if the cave is too flooded. We wear a helmet to protect our heads, in case we fall on a rock or bump into rock ceiling.

Entrance to Pungiton Cave. From left: Rosdin and Josyen (guides), Ms Wong Li Pin (media)

Slowly my eyes adjust to the darkness. We walk along the stream between the whitish walls of limestone. The water is quite clear and shallow. We avoid stepping into the murky water that may have a hole underneath. To keep dry, we try to walk along the edge of the stream, but I would occasionally soak my feet to enjoy the cooling water. The running water creates a noticeable cool air flow as if the cave is breathing.

Wet cave of Pungiton Cave. Note the scalloped wall at the right with ripple pattern, an ancient mark of the water movement.

The stream is weak and small, but if you did pay attention in your geography class during high school, you would know that the limestone cave is a work of water. The rainwater absorbs CO₂ in the atmosphere and forms a mildly acidic water. This water flows through the limestone and slowly erodes the rocks. Over million of years, continual water or seepage craves out a hole, next a cavity, and then a cave. Pungiton Cave is probably about 20 millions years ago. It’s not officially studied and mapped by any geologist yet, so this number is just a wild guess.

Long underground water tunnel of Pungiton Cave. It’s about 400 Meters long and flows deep into the cave.

On the roof and wall of the wet cave are many round dents or depressions in rippled pattern, these ancient traces of water movement provide some hints on the direction and speed of water flow in passages in the past.

The running stream in the wet cave of Pungiton Cave. Cave with creeks, groundwater, or springs are known as aquatic or wet caves.

A powerful torch will improve your caving experience. Thanks to my new flashlight (Max Output: 2,100 Lumens), its light beam is so bright that it lit up the surrounding. This allows me to take better cave photos in dim environment.

Limestone Art in Pungiton Cave

Half an hour later, we climb up to the dry surface, where the cave starts to get more interesting. I see many natural sculptures created by water, which must have taken thousand of years to form. Basically it’s a gallery of timeless water art.

A U-shaped rock formation near the end of wet cave

The ceiling height of Pungiton Cave is about 3 to 12 Meters most of the time. The space is wide enough not to trigger any claustrophobia. There is no boardwalk, only ropes and ladder are available for hard to climb sections. Along the way I see many holes, opening, junctions and gaps that probably connect to other chambers or network. Without a guide, I would lose my way.

Who knows you might find Japanese treasure here, or hear boss music playing. 😀

In the past, there were many taboos to visit Pungiton Cave, for example, you should not wear red. Now the cave is an attraction opens to tourists, and many old rules aren’t relevant anymore. However, please be respectful and don’t do or say anything offensive in the cave. The locals believe that there are spirits lingering in the cave, and they dislike to be disturbed.

Variety of “limestone art” in Pungiton Cave

A BIG NO-NO is touching the rock formations, especially stalagmites and stalactites. Most of them are still growing at a rate of 0.13 mm (0.0051 inches) a year. They would turn dark and stop growing if contaminated by acidic oil from our fingers. Watch your steps too. One foot of stalagmite would need over 2,000 years to grow, but we can destroy it in a split second.

Big vs Small Stalagmites. The term stalagmite comes from the Greek word stalagma, which means “dripping”.

One thing I really admire Pungiton Cave is the diversity of cave features. Of course this cave is not as gigantic as those in the famous Mulu National Park. But it’s not short of wonders. The following are some interesting and peculiar cave features that I find in Pungiton Cave.

Left: the cave looks like the throat of a dragon. Right: the limestone in flesh color.

Stalagmites and stalactites are the most well-known cave features. They are icicle-shaped deposits that form when water dissolves limestone, and drips through cave roofs and onto the floors. The re-deposits calcium carbonate gradually builds up and grows on the ceilings or floors and become mound-shaped rock formation that called stalactites and stalagmites respectively.

The magnificent stalagmites and stalactites of Pungiton Cave. A column is forming in the middle section.

When the upward-growing stalagmites meet and connect with the downward-growing stalactites in the middle, they eventually fuse and form a column, and some columns look like carved pillars.

A mushroom-like rock. I don’t what’s the name of such formation.

Flowstones are sheets of calcium carbonate on the walls or floor of a cave formed from a gradual flow of water over a relatively broad area along cave wall. The final form are curtain-like sheaves along ledges, better known as draperies.

Flowstones formed from a gradual flow of water over a relatively broad area along cave wall.

There are also some strange, branch-like helictites that grows in a twisted, curled fashion, as a result of minimal water seepage.

A rock that looks like the thumbs-up Like of Facebook

Rimstone dams form along floors where calcite-rich water continues to flow over the edge of the pools.

Rimstone dams are formed by overflowing calcite-rich water from the pools.

Near the exit there is a wide chamber with wind movement. I can vaguely hear something that sounds like whispering. But there are no other people around or outside. You may watch my video to hear the strange noise.

Limestone consists of coral and marine fossils, which can be as old as 40 million years.

Interesting Fauna in Pungiton Cave

Cave is a dark world but not lifeless. Some animals use darkness as a protection and choose cave as their habitats. The most common dweller of cave is bat. They say the bats in Pungiton Cave is larger and screech like monkey, and the locals eat them.

Left: hatchling and eggs of cave swiftlet. Right: cave cricket

Swiftlets also live here, among them is edible-nest swiftlet, which builds nest in the cave. These swiftlets can use echo-location like bats, to help them navigate deeper into the cave. Edible bird nest is an expensive delicate, so their nests are harvested heavily and very few of them left.

Bugs in Pungiton Cave. From left: Cave Centipede, Unknown Millipedes, large Huntsman Spider with egg sack

We come across a few mass of guano under the congregating bats, it’s a mixture of dropping of bats and birds. Sometimes guano can accumulate to a few feet deep over a long period. I walk on them and it feels like stepping on a soft carpet. It has mild ammonia smell. Cockroaches like to feed on guano but I only see one here. Guano is an excellent fertilizer because it’s rich in nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium, and some people get rich by selling guano.

Left: bats on the roof of Pungiton Cave. They are everywhere. Right: thousand-year-old rock formation

If Pungiton Cave is managed sustainably since the beginning, edible bird nests and guano would generate continuous cashflow for the villagers until today. Unfortunately, half a century ago, people didn’t realize the importance of conservation. Anyway, the cave itself is an eco-treasure and quite well-preserved.

Curtain-like draperies in the cave

I see some leggy cave centipedes on the rock wall, they run for shelter in the dark whenever my light points at them. Other bugs I see are the silky thread traps of glow worms, egg-eating cave cricket, and a huge Huntsman spider hugging an egg sack.

Pungiton Camp

To perfect your caving experience, you can spend a night or two at Pungiton Camp, a longhouse style accommodation near Labang River. Pungiton Cave is only a 15-minute walk away from the camp. After the adventure, you can have a nice meal and shower at the camp. If it’s new moon, you would see Milky Way on the starry sky. The place is warm during daytime but getting cooler in late night.

Pungiton Camp is a wooden longhouse on stilt. It can accommodate about 20 visitors. The small building behind it are the where the toilets, kitchen and dining area located.

Pungiton Camp can accommodate about 20 people and is equipped with canvas beds (with mosquito net), bathroom (hot shower available!), toilet, and dining area. The sleeping area is an open and corridor-like layout with beds. Electricity is available from evening to early morning, but the power point is only available at dining area.

Beds of Pungiton Camp. Blanket, pillow, towel and step stool are provided.

How to Get There

Pungiton Cave is located in Sapulut, a small district of Sabah interior about 110 KM away from Keningau town and 217 KM away from Kota Kinabalu City. Sapulut is accessible by highway between Keningau and Tawau (part of Pan-Borneo Highway).

Location map of Sapulot and its surrounding

To visit Pungiton Cave, you can contact Borneo Outback Tours Sdn Bhd (Licenses: Co. No. 846369-H / KPK / LN:9247). They will arrange the land & boat transfer and accommodation (Pungiton Camp) for you.
Website: www.borneo.tours
Facebook: orou.sapulot
Instagram: @orousapulot
Phone: +60 19 2277077 (Whatsapp), +60 87 337 277
Address: A-7-2, Apollo Atrium, 89008 Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia

Kampung Labang (village) of Sapulut, the starting point of the boat ride to Pungiton Camp.

The tourism operations in Sapulut are managed by Orou Sapulot (means the Sun of Sapulot), a community based project to promote tourism and in sustainable manner.

Photos taken in Sapulut , Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Batu Punggul, the Sacred Hill of Sabah

I was awed by the majestic Batu Punggul, a 220-Metre-high limestone pinnacle in Sapulut, in the interior of Sabah, Malaysia. Before it’s open to tourists in 1992, Batu Punggul is a sacred hill that is only mentioned in the books of Borneo adventurers. Its photograph looks like a giant tombstone standing tall above the mysterious rainforest.

There are 1,393 limestone outcrops or hills in Malaysia, with 911 of them located in Peninsular Malaysia, while 482 are in Sabah and Sarawak.

According to the legend of Murut people, Batu Punggul is a petrified longhouse, the result of a punishment by God to the people who mocked animals. The hill was used to be so high that it covered the sky until someone chopped it down and only its stump remains. Punggul means stump in Murut language hence Batu Punggul means stump-like rock.

There are a total of 218 limestone outcrops in Sabah. Of these outcrops, 149 are in the districts of Kinabatangan, Kudat and Lahad Datu.

Put aside its terrifying myth, Batu Punggul is the most unique and stunning pinnacle among the 218 limestone outcrops in Sabah. My late father had climbed Batu Punggul, so I followed his footsteps, to understand why his eyes sparkled whenever he talked about Batu Punggul. Though climbing this vertical hill sounds challenging, I’m sure most of you can conquer it.

About Batu Punggul

Batu Punggul is no ordinary hill because of its cultural and ecological values. Batu Punggul has been a legendary and sacred place to Murut people, the third largest indigenous group of Sabah. The locals respect Batu Punggul and have many stories about it.

Murut people and the traditional Murut longhouse, which can accommodate a number of families or even a village.

The most popular story on the formation of Batu Punggul is about two Murut longhouses, namely, Punggul and Tinagas, with Sapulut River ran between these two villages in the past. One day the people of Punggul longhouse had no fire to cook, so they asked Tinagas longhouse on the other side for fire. At first the Tinagas people tied a bundle of fire on the head of a dog and let it swam across the river. A big wave came and put out the fire. People of both longhouses laughed.

The villagers were laughing at the unlucky animals, but their God didn’t think that it’s funny.

Then the Tinagas people tied the fire on a cock and made it flied across the river to deliver the fire. But the river was too wide. The cock fell into the river. Everyone laughed again. Later someone mocked a leech that perched on a jar to drink tapai (rice or tapioca wine). Making fun of animals is a taboo in Murut. Their misbehavior angered the God Aki Kaulung, who turned these people and their longhouses into rocks immediately.

Making harmless fun to animals is probably acceptable in some cultures, but a big No-No to Murut people. (I need to clarify that the owner of this dog really loves his pet.)

After the punishment, Batu Punggul became a very tall limestone rock that blocked the sun and obstructed the sunlight needed for crops to grow, so a young man chopped down Batu Punggul. When the hill fell, it broke into smaller rocks which scattered along the downstream of Sapulut River. The Batu Punggul was left with a “stump” that we see today.

Location map of Sapulut and Batu Punggul. The adjacent Sungai Sansiang Virgin Forest Reserve covers an area of about 344 ha.

Batu Punggul is located within the Batu Punggul Forest Reserve (see Location Map) in the interior of Sabah, about 110 KM south of Keningau town. When logging was rampant in 1980s, Dr. Richard Gunting saved Batu Punggul and its surrounding forest from deforestation in 1986. In 2009, Batu Punggul Forest Reserve was gazetted as an Amenity Forest Reserve (Class IV), covering an area of 150 hectares (1.5 Square Kilometre).

Batu Punggul is a limestone pinnacle and a sacred hill for the locals. The girl at the right is Jariah, one of the guides.

Limestone is a type of rock that forms underwater from the structures of living organisms like coral and shells millions of years ago. When Borneo island raised from the ocean floor, a series of tectonic movements by earth lifted the limestone of Batu Punggul above the ground. It’s a blessing that Batu Punggul still survives today, when 32 (23%) of limestone outcrops in Sabah are being quarried for cement production.

You can read on or watch this video for a walkthrough of the climbing trip.

Tour to Batu Punggul

In the past, without the Keningau-Tawau highway, visitors had to withstand four or more hours of boat ride to reach Batu Punggul. Now climbing Batu Punggul can be a day trip (though an overnight trip is recommended). You can book the tour with Borneo Outback Tours (see their contact info near the end). The following is a walkthrough of my trip to Batu Punggul, which consists of river cruise, hiking and climbing.

Signage of Batu Punggul at Tataluan Village, next to the Keningau-Tawau road in Sapulut

The starting point of the tour is at Kampung Tataluan village in Sapulut (see Location Map). My journey starts with a morning river cruise on a wooden longboat from the Tataluan jetty around 9am. I see a lot of rocks along the river, which are said the chips from the fallen hill. The rocks of the poor dog and cock can be seen at the river too.

Taking a boat from the jetty of Kampung Tataluan to Batu Punggul. There is a small toilet before the jetty.

The river is flanked by dense forest. After a few minutes, I see Batu Punggul from a distance. Its presence is so powerful and spiritual that I got goosebumps. In 10 minutes, the boat reaches the entrance to Batu Punggul Forest Reserve. After a short briefing at the reception building of Sabah Forestry Department, we start walking to the starting point of the climb.

View of Batu Punggul from the boat. With me are Dr. Richard Gunting, Ms Wong from media and 3 guides from Orou Sapulot.

Walking to the Foothill of Batu Punggul

The hike from the jetty to the foothill of Batu Punggul takes about 30 minutes. This tropical rainforest is mostly untouched like a virgin forest. For the lucky visitors, they would see blooming rafflesia flower (Species: Rafflesia keithii). 596 taxa of plants are recorded in this forest and 20 of them are endemic to Sabah, and four of them are totally protected plant species.

Left: the Dog Rock at the river. Right: Entrance to Batu Punggul Forest Reserve

Majority of the trail is ascending path. It’s not very steep but quite a workout in this warm and humid forest. Leeches would be around during wet season, so you would need to wear anti-leech socks. I don’t find any leech in my visit. The dense trees shade us from the heat. It’s noisy in here because of the loud cicada calls everywhere.

Big tree and cave in Batu Punggul Forest Reserve. Numerous plants found in and around cave entrances are endemic to limestone. The cave was used as a refuge by the Muruts in times of wars and epidemics. The guy at the right is Josyen.

15 minutes later I reach a big cave. Visitors can enter the cave chamber to see some interesting limestone formations that resemble household items such as jar, the belongings of the longhouse inhabitants. There are a few limestone cave networks (e.g. Batu Tinahas Cave) in this forest reserve for those who are keen in caving.

Batu Punggul Forest Reserve is under the administration of the Tibow District Forestry Office (Sabah Forestry Department).

Climbing Batu Punggul

Finally we arrive the starting point of the climb. To cut down weight, you can leave the unnecessary items here, e.g. portable charger, hiking pole (pack them all in a plastic bag in case it rains). I only climb with a small backpack that carries a 1-Litre water bottle, raincoat and camera. I strongly advise you to apply sunblock lotion before the climb because it’s really hot up there.

Left: This white lantern bug (Species: Pyrops sultanus) is endemic to Borneo. Right: We saw this crested green lizard twice back and forth. It changed from green to black colour.

The starting point is already a test of bravery. You need to traverse sideway to cross a vertical wall. A misstep will be hazardous to your health. You can stop here if you don’t feel confident. Anyway, it’s a great photography spot to take photos that shock your mom.

The scary crossing at the starting point. It’s me in black clothing. Bravery is more useful than climbing skill in this trip.

The climb to the summit takes 45 minutes to an hour. Most people can reach the peak successfully if they are reasonably fit. You don’t need to be a trained rock climber, but some hiking experience and upper body strength (and courage!) would help a lot. The oldest climber who reaches the top of Batu Punggul is 74 years old.

The only available climbing aid are ropes and cables. Jariah looks tired.

The climbing trail is uneven and nearly vertical most of the time. With the help of ropes and cables, I move up slowly on steep boulder cliffs, looking for holes, dents and protrusions, on crevice, jagged edges, and cliff bands as handholds or footholds. The most tricky part is to climb over a few mildly overhanging rocks. The path is so narrow that I can only rest in standing position or leaning to the rocks, as there isn’t enough space to sit down.

Climbing the vertical limestone cliffs of Batu Punggul. Josyen is smiling, as if the climb is too easy for him.

The limestones are hard and sharp with rough surface, good for solid grips but it would scratch your skin. You are better off wearing gloves. I climb without one and get a minor cut on finger. The local believes that if you bleed in your first climb, the spirit is telling you that you will live a long life.

Normally it takes 45 minute to an hour to reach the top of Batu Punggul, depend on your fitness. At the left is Ms Wong Li Pin from media.

The vegetation changes from lowland rainforest to limestone forest, which is predominantly made up of small trees, shrubs and rich herbaceous layers. In Sabah, some of the more common plant species which grow on limestone are begonias (Begonia spp.), Paraboea sp., some ferns and aroids. Among the limestone endemic plant species that occur on Batu Punggul limestone are Tainia ponggolensis (orchid) and Begonia amphioxus. I do spend some time admiring the interesting plant and flowers.

Left: the silvery lucky plant, tawawo, probably a Bluemae. Right: Salung tangi, a magical ingredient for making love potion

I see a lot of whitish plant grows on the limestone. According to the locals, it’s called tawawo. You can put its leaves inside hunting rifle or wallet as a lucky charm. If tawawo is plucked in the morning, it will emit a soothing scent by 2 or 3pm. Give it to a girl. If she smells the aromatic scent, she will fall in love with you, they say.

Interesting plant and flower that grow on limestone of Batu Punggul. Note: plucking plant is forbidden in forest reserves.

We have three guides (Jariah, Josyen and Rosdin) who always keep an eye on us and tell us where to put our feet. Batu Punggul looks dangerous but it’s not really dangerous if you are careful. No severe injury occurs on this pinnacle before. Whatever, it’s still nerve-wracking when I’m crossing a few sections that are only one step away from a hundred-metre fall. My legs shiver whenever I see the cliff below my feet.

The hundred-metre drop is just next to the climber, one of the frightening moments.

The limestones are greyish white in the beginning. As we move closer to the peak, they are darker in colour due to weathering. The biggest challenge of this climb is not the steepness, but dehydration and heat exhaustion. My best advices for you are: bring more water, apply sunscreen, wear comfortable outdoor clothing and a pair of good hiking / climbing shoes. e.g. Adidas Kampung.

The blade-like limestones on top of Batu Punggul. The highest point is less than 30 Metres away from here.

On the top, watch out for a gap called Tapikon Ansawoh, which means “the place where husband and wife jump across”. The story is – a newly married couple was climbing Batu Punggul. When they came to this gap, the sweet husband stretched his legs across the opening, to let his wife walking on them to cross. However, his legs slipped because of her weight and both of them fell into the gap.

Watch out for this gap covered by plant. If you fall into that hole, the person at the right will see you free falling in the opening.

Finally I reach the highest point at 10:50am. It’s such a heroic moment, as if I unlock an achievement. Batu Punggul has no official height, but it is estimated that Batu Punggul is between 200 to 240 Metres high. From the top I have a panoramic view of Labang Valley, Batu Punggul forest reserve, Sungai Sansiang Virgin Forest Reserve, Sapulut River and the forested Batu Tinahas (another petrified longhouse). The locals have the custom of making a wish or throwing away misfortune (buang batang) on the peak. Feel free to try it.

We make it to the top! The high point far behind is Batu Tinahas (another petrified longhouse in the legend) covered by lush forest. In the photo are Jariah from Orou Sapluot (left) and Ms Wong Li Pin from media (right).

There is no tree on the peak to shade us from the scorching sun, so we don’t stay long, otherwise it would be cool to have our lunch on top with the scenic view. Descending is more difficult. Initially we plan to picnic at the pebble beach (river bank) after the climb, but the water level is too high. Therefore, we have some juicy watermelon at the jetty, a great refreshment to supplement ourselves with some sugar and electrolytes after heavy sweating.

Left: eating watermelon after the climb. Right: view of Batu Punggul from upstream Sapulut River. In front of me are Ms Wong and Dr. Richard.

About Sapulut (or Sapulot)

Sapulut is under the Nabawan district of Sabah interior. It is accessible by highway between Keningau and Tawau (part of Pan-Borneo Highway).

For a tour in Sapulut and Batu Punggul, you can contact Borneo Outback Tours Sdn Bhd (Licenses: Co. No. 846369-H / KPK / LN:9247) at:
Website: www.borneo.tours
Facebook: orou.sapulot
Instagram: @orousapulot
Phone: +60 19 2277077 (Whatsapp), +60 87 337 277
Address: A-7-2, Apollo Atrium, 89008 Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia

The tourism operations in Sapulut are managed by Orou Sapulot (means the Sun of Sapulot), a community based project to promote tourism and in sustainable manner.

References

For more information about Batu Punggul, you may check out the following materials:

Jojo M. Fung, SJ (1998). “The Legendary Batu Punggul.” Sabah Society Journal, Vol. 15 (1998) 59-73
Thor-Seng Liew, Junn-Kitt Foon, Gopalasamy Reuben Clements (2021). Conservation of Limestone Ecosystems of Malaysia, Part I and VII . Institute for Tropical Biology and Conservation, Universiti Malaysia Sabah, Kota Kinabalu
RTM TV1 (Rancangan Rentas Peribumi). (2019, August 23). Kehidupan Masyarakat dan Kepercayaan Suku Kaum Murut Tagol di Batu Punggul dan Kampung Tataluan, Nabawan Sabah. [Video]. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mh2v40ytG1U

Photos taken in Sapulut , Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Fun Boat Ride in the Heart of Borneo (Sabah and Kalimantan)

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Borneo Island is the third largest island in the world, and its territory is shared by three countries, i.e. Malaysia (Sabah & Sarawak States), Indonesia, and Brunei. Though the land border of Sabah and Kalimantan (Indonesian portion of Borneo) spans more than 300 KM, there is no highway to connect both sides.

Left: Map of Borneo and its countries. Right: river passage from Sapulut to Kalimantan (North Kalimantan Province)

However, for thousand of years, people of Sabah have been going in and out of Kalimantan freely. Dense forest and treacherous terrain form the natural barriers between Malaysian and Indonesian Borneo, but human can get around these by network of rivers that cover the inland of Borneo. For example, you can reach Kalimantan from Sapulut, a small district in Sabah interior.

Village next to the river

I’ve tried the boat ride from Sabah to Kalimantan, which takes only 1.5 hours, to experience the ancient river passage in the Heart of Borneo. Overall, it’s a fun river cruise to explore the scenic countryside of two countries. Please read on if you want to know how I travelled between two countries in half a day.

Kampung Salung Jetty

First we drive about an hour on the gravel road from Sapulut town to the jetty of Kampung Salung (Kampung means Village). On the way, you would see dozers and trucks are busy upgrading the 38-Kilometre road from Sapulut to Pagalungan town. Salung Village is somewhere in the midpoint.

Road between Sapulut and Pagalungan town under construction

The road is located near the Sapulut River, which flows to Kalimantan. As Sapulut is a mountainous region, road is expensive to construct. Though this road may eventually connect to Kalimantan, that would be an ambitious project that needs a lot of time and fund to complete.

Kampung Salung, starting point of the river cruise. Mia and Barbara follow us for the rapid shooting.

Kampung Salung is a peaceful village next to a big river. After we park our car and take a toilet break, we depart at 10am on a 20-feet-long traditional wooden boat that is powered by two engines.

Ready to depart from Kampung Salung jetty on a twin engine long boat

A 7-minute video to show you what you would see in the river cruise

Going to Kalimantan, the Indonesian Borneo

The name Kalimantan is derived from the Sanskrit word Kalamanthana, which means “burning weather island”, because of its warm and humid tropical climate. As the boat has no sun cover (Bimini top), applying sunblock lotion will prevent sunburnt.

Village and nature view along the river. In front seat are Virgil (left) and Dr. Richard (right)

When the long boat speeds and glides on the river, it’s breezy, too comfortable for a nap, but I was busy being thrilled by the scenic view along the river.

A peek to the stilt houses and lifestyle of locals

Joining me are Dr. Richard and his son, Virgil from Orou Sapulut, Ms Wong from media and two local girls, Mia and Barbara. The ladies and me are first timers on a boat trip to Kalimantan.

Barbara (left) and Mia (right) seem to enjoy the ride

It takes about 1.5 hours to travel about 25 KM from Salung Jetty to Kalimantan border. The river is about 20-50 metres wide, part of it could be shallow during drought and you would need to get into water to push the boat.

Longhouses and building on the slope

The land at both sides of the river is mostly lush forest, slopes and high ground, where villagers build their houses, schools and farms. The riverside view is interesting as our boat passed by many longhouses and villages such as Kampung Binanding, Kampung Silungai and Kampung Babalitan. Virgil said he saw a group of hunting dogs chasing a deer at the river once.

Longhouses and boats parking at the river is a common view

Most of the population along the river are Murut, which means “the People of the Hill”, and they are the third largest indigenous people of Sabah. Majority of them here are farmers, fishermen and hunters. Travel agents like to advertise Murut as the descendants of headhunters. Nowadays most of them are educated and live a modern life just like others. Many are converted to Christians or Muslims too.

Left: Traditional graves of Murut. Right: Sekolah Kebangsaan Babalitan (school)

Part of the forested hills are clear for planting hill paddy, tapioca, banana, rubber and other crops. Many Murut live in longhouse and I see almost every house has more than one boat parked on the river.

Pagalungan township and the mosque

Anyway, when the new road to Pagalungan town is fully upgraded, longhouses at river side would be gone slowly when more people move to roadside for better accessibility.

Left: hill paddy. Right: rubber plantation

In general, the river is calm, only a few sections are slightly bumpy due to the swift rapids, I’m only hit by the splashes twice. We go through more than 10 rapids and pass through the narrow gaps between boulders couple of times.

Long boat cutting through the strong rapid

The boatmen are really skillful and experienced, so our boat navigate in the raging currents smoothly. So that’s why they call it rapid shooting huh. I really appreciate that whenever my camera points at something, the boatman will slow down the boat until I’m done shooting.

Scary or thrilling moments? Left: big waves hitting the boat, Right: speeding toward the boulders in a rapid

We have our life vests on and feel totally safe. By the way, swimming in this river isn’t a great idea as there are crocodiles. We find only one juvenile crocodile resting on the river bank anyway.

A juvenile crocodile (species: Crocodylus siamensis) on the river bank

We see a lot of volcanic rocks and boulders of different shapes on the river bank. They are probably 4 or 5 million years old, giving this river more vibes of ancestry. Some rocks look like an animal and probably have a story to tell.

Volcanic rocks at the river

Crossing the Border

After passing by Bantul, the last Malaysian village before Kalimantan, we see the Garuda Pancasila monument, the National emblem of Indonesia. I know we have arrived Kalimantan.

Left: National emblem of Indonesia. Right: CIQS complex of Indonesia is under construction

Unlike other border controls that are usually guarded by unfriendly armed force and officers, there is no fence and checkpoint that stops our boat. We just go in like an outlaw. However, such relaxation is only applicable to Malaysians. They would stop foreigners to enter even if they have a passport.

CIQS (Customs, Immigration, Quarantine and Security complex) of Indonesia at the Kalimantan border

They are probably watching us but too busy working on some modern structures. According to Virgil, Indonesia is building a CIQS complex (Customs, Immigration, Quarantine and Security complex) there. It’ll be finished in 1.5 years, and operational in 2 years.

It’s my first visit to Indonesia but there is no proof on paper. When their CIQS is ready, I want them to stamp on my passport, and I would spend a few days in Kalimantan. Currently the proper way to enter Kalimantan from Sabah by water is taking a ferry from Tawau town and land on Nunukan or Tarakan of North Kalimantan Province.

Most of the villagers are Murut people who have been staying here for thousand of years

In fact, there were time when Borneo was under one ruler or government (e.g. Brunei Kingdom and British North Borneo Colony) so there was no boundary. People could move freely between Sabah and Kalimantan during that period.

After “trespassing” Kalimantan for a short distance, we make a U-turn at the Luyu rapid and head back to Sabah. Return trip will take 2 hours, longer time because the boat goes against the river current.

River Picnic

I know we will have our lunch picnic by the river but didn’t expect it comes with a surprise. The colour of main river is like milk tea, a characteristics of the downstream river, which collects silt washed down to the water on its course.

Entering Sumandapiravuhus River

When our boat enters a tributary of the big river, I look at the water in disbelief because it’s crystal clear. “This is Sumandapiravuhus River. We will have our lunch here.” Dr. Richard says. He smiles at me, as if he knows that I’m impressed by the beautiful river.

Sumandapiravuhus River. Far behind is the exit to main river

I don’t know how they find this perfect spot for picnic. The surrounding dense trees shade us from the hot sun, and our presence spooks a flock of Bushy-crested hornbill flying over the canopy. I sit on a rock, soak my feet in the cool water, and enjoy my lunch and soda drink.

Lunch picnic at Sumandapiravuhus River

Too bad I don’t have any swim wear with me or it’ll be refreshing to bath in this clean river. Well, maybe next time.

Returning to the Kampung Salung Jetty by 1pm

About Sapulut (or Sapulot)

For a tour in Sapulut, you can contact Borneo Outback Tours Sdn Bhd (Licenses: Co. No. 846369-H / KPK / LN:9247) at:
Website: www.borneo.tours
Facebook: orou.sapulot
Instagram: @orousapulot
Phone: +60 19 2277077 (Whatsapp), +60 87 337 277
Address: A-7-2, Apollo Atrium, 89008 Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia

Crystal clear water of Sumandapiravuhus River is so inviting. You can bath in the river or small waterfall there.

The tourism operations in Sapulot are managed by Orou Sapulot (means the Sun of Sapulot), a community based project to promote tourism and in sustainable manner.

Photos taken in Sapulut and Kalimantan

10 Breathtaking Hills and Mountains of Sabah [Bonus: List of 140+ Hills and Mountains to Climb]

Sabah is a state of hundred mountains, and the top five highest mountains of Malaysia are located in Sabah, i.e. (1st) Mount Kinabalu, (2nd) Mount Trus Madi, (3rd) Mount Sinsing, (4th) Mount Tambuyukon, (5th) Mount Kaingaran. Climbers and hikers will be spoiled with choices, as every hills and mountains here have different characteristics in terms of geology, landscape and biodiversity. For example, today you can climb a mountain with dense rainforest cover, then tomorrow challenge a limestone pinnacle with bald rockface. The following is a list of 10 most unique hills and mountains in Sabah for a diverse climbing experience. Please note gunung and bukit mean mountain and hill in Malay language respectively.

Location of (1) Mount Kinabalu, (2) Bukit Perahu, (3) Bukit Kokol, (4) Bukit Bongol, (5) Batu Punggul, (6) Mount Silam, (7) Mount Nombuyukong, (8) Bukit Lugas, (9) Bukit Tengkorak, and (10) Maragang Hill

1. Mount Kinabalu

Height: 4,095 Metres (13,435 ft) Location: Kinabalu Park (GPS: 6.075260, 116.558813)

As the first UNESCO World Heritage Site and the highest mountain of Malaysia, Mount Kinabalu is the No.1 tourist destination of Sabah. Mount Kinabalu is 700 million years old, and a snow-capped mountain during ice age back in 30,000 years ago. Today climbers still can see the ancient traces and jagged peaks carved by glacier near the summit.

Mount Kinabalu is so prominent that you can see her in most parts of Sabah (even Sandakan in East Coast)

But what truly makes Mount Kinabalu special is its cloud forest which is high in plant endemism. On the way up, you would see bright-colored pitcher plant and rare orchid next to the trail. The majestic Mount Kinabalu is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places in Malaysia. The climb is about 8.7 Kilometres in distance and usually take 2 days 1 night. More Info…

Conquering Mount Kinabalu is in the bucket list of most Malaysians

2. Ruhiang Hill (Bukit Perahu)

Height: 300 Metres (984 ft) Location: Tamparuli (GPS: 6.135493, 116.278955)

The locals say there are two ships stranded on the cone-shaped Ruhiang Hill. Actually they are two huge boulders that look like ships. The climb takes less than an hour.

For this view, you need to reach the top of Bukit Perahu before 8am. Mount Kinabalu would be covered in mist after 9pm

Early birds who reach the peak in early morning would be rewarded by the breathtaking view of Mount Kinabalu on a sea of cloud. I can’t help to imagine that I can get on a big ship to sail to Mount Kinabalu on the cloud. After the climb, the bonus is to eat Tamparuli Fried Noodle in Tamparuli town. More Info…

You would find many locals climbing Ruhiang Hill (Bukit Perahu) during weekends. See the ship-like boulder?

3. Bukit Kokol (Kokol Hill)

Height: 800 Metres (2,625 ft) Location: Menggatal (GPS: 6.007611, 116.207367)

Two cool things draw many visitors to unwind on Kokol Hill. It is the nearest spot to escape the heat of Kota Kinabalu city, and its magnificent sunset view. You can just drive up there without climbing at all. If life is tough, have a cup of hot coffee in cooling breeze of Kokol Hill and enjoy the scenic view of Kota Kinabalu city and islands far away. To really free your mind, try paragliding on Kokol Hill. More Info…

The nice view, cooling temperature and paragliding are the highlight of Kokol Hill (Bukit Hill)

4. Bukit Bongol

Height: 500 Metres (1,730 ft) Location: Kota Belud (GPS: 6.310287, 116.408424)

Want a fun hike with a group of friends? I heard a lot of praises about Bukit Bongol. The slopes are mostly gentle and the trail is less challenging. The whole hill is carpeted by grass, which is green in wet months and yellowish during drought, a spectacular scenery you all won’t forget. Climb to the high point before 9am and you would be lucky to see Mount Kinabalu, a perfect backdrop for your Instagram shots. More Info…

Bukit Bongol in Kota Belud is the most grassy hill of Sabah

5. Batu Punggul

Height: 244 Metres (800 ft) Location: Nabawan (GPS: 4.607299, 116.587644)

Located in interior, where Murut headhunters roamed in the past, Batu Punggul is the most mysterious hill of Sabah. Legend says this limestone pinnacle is a longhouse being turned into rock by angry God because the villagers made fun of the animals. At the foothill there is a cave where you can find the “fossilized furniture” such as jar and table. Climbing this vertical 800-feet limestone pinnacle will peak your adrenaline rush, and nobody will question your bravery if you can conquer Batu Punggul. More Info…

Batu Punggul is a 800-feet limestone pinnacle in Sabah interior. Photo (left) by Sticky Rice Travel

6. Mount Silam

Height: 884 Metres (2,900 ft) Location: Lahad Datu (GPS: 4.956901, 118.165534)

You don’t need to get on a plane to have a bird-eye view of this beautiful land. Just visit the tower of heaven on Mount Silam, where you can see the picturesque scenery of Darvel Bay. The air up there is refreshing and the peak is covered in fog sometimes. Beside the tower is a nature trail that leads you to an alien world filled with mossy forest, forest crabs, rare orchid, pitcher plant, etc. More Info…

The view of Darvel Bay, mossy forest and Tower of Heaven on Mount Silam

7. Mount Nombuyukong

Height: 1,603.57 Metres (5,261 ft) Location: Kota Marudu (GPS: 6.275650, 116.687114)

Mount Nombuyukong is another mountain in north of Kinabalu Park. Its pointy peak kind of triggering my insect-like instinct that motivates me to crawl to its tip. The climb is quite challenging but takes only half a day. This is a forested mountain for nature lovers who appreciate the fauna and flora in tropical rainforest of Borneo. You won’t be disappointed when you see so many interesting fungus, flowers, trees, and birds along the way. More Info…

Mount Nombuyukong is one of the mountains in Kinabalu Park (Serinsim Substation, Kota Marudu)

8. Bukit Lugas

Height: 600 Metres (1,965 feet) above sea level Location: Tambunan (GPS: 5.506507, 116.277218)

This is a great example to inspire a person that he doesn’t need to be tall to be attractive, if he has awesome characteristics. Bukit Lugas is just a small hill, but it has an impressive ridge that looks like dragon spine. Though the narrow path is a nightmare for people with acrophobia, they still want to try it. Anyway, it is safer than it seems. This hidden dragon is exposed when its pictures went viral a few years ago. More Info…

Ridge walk on Bukit Lugas

9. Bukit Tengkorak (Skull Hill)

Height: 183 Metres (597 ft) Location: Semporna (GPS: 4.438507, 118.619756)

Bukit Tengkorak is part of an ancient volcanic rim (about 2 KM in diameter) and the largest pottery making site in Southeast Asia during the Neolithic period (about 3,000 years ago). It is estimated that more than 6 million prehistoric potsherds found on this hill, and you would see hundred of pottery potsherds on the way up.

Beautiful grassland on Bukit Tengkorak (Skull Hill)

On top of this hill, you can have a panoramic view of Semporna town and islands. You can go further behind to explore the grassy knolls dotted with black volcanic rocks, to bag some amazing profile photos. More Info…

Black volcanic rocks on Bukit Tengkorak (Skull Hill)

10. Maragang Hill

Height: 2,232 Metres (7,323 ft) Location: Mesilau (GPS: 6.039138, 116.585750)

The distance between the peaks of Mount Kinabalu and Maragang Hill is only 5 Kilometres! This makes Maragang Hill the best viewpoint for the highest mountain of Malaysia. The viewing platform on the peak allows you to capture Mount Kinabalu, lush montane forest and blue sky in one frame.

Looking at Mount Kinabalu from Maragang Hill

The 4-Kilometre climb is fairly easy and takes only an hour. A camping site is available nearby for those who want to stay back for stargazing. More Info…

View of Mount Kinabalu from cockpit. Photos courtesy of Allan Koay

List of Hills and Mountains in Sabah

The list doesn’t end here. The following is a list of over 140 hills / mountains grouped by city and towns. Please note that not all of them are tourist-ready. Some destinations would require you to hire a guide or apply an entry permit. I try to link them to some useful websites (informative articles are so hard to come by nowadays). Please note the height is measured from sea level (above sea level or asl).

Beaufort

Bukit Balibata

Keningau and Sook

Gunung Alab (2,050 Metres / 6,726 ft)
Bukit Donguan: Facebook
Bukit Janda
Bukit Kosimbut (534 Metres / 1752 ft): Facebook, video
Bukit Kulanga: Facebook, video
Bukit Naundarangan: video
Bukit Malik
Bukit Matanoi: Facebook
Bukit Selomitha: Facebook
Bukit Sigup
Bukit Soborong
Bukit Trig Apin-Apin (574 Metres / 1,883 ft)
Chanang Hill
Bukit Durian: Facebook
Nulu Gundi: Facebook
Bukit Bandukan
Bukit Baverly Kikiran
Bukit Gonipis
Bukit Kara
Bukit Kawah
Bukit Masin
Bukit Silui Mandanan
Bukit Sumbiling Kikiran
Puncak Dimie (Mile 16 Jalan Kimanis – Keningau)

Peak of Mount Nopungguk (1,430 Metres / 4,692 ft) in Kota Belud

Kota Belud

Mount Nopungguk (1,430 Metres / 4,692 ft)
Bukit Bongol (527 Metres / 1,730 ft)
Mount Nungkok (1,652 Metres / 5,420 ft): article 1, article 2, video
Puncak Donggiranuk (736 Metres / 2414 ft): Facebook
Bukit Bendera: video 1, video 2
Bukit Budu Sundu (599 Metres / 1,965 ft)
Bukit Garas (690 Metres / 2,264 ft)
Bukit Pakis (184 Metres / 604 ft): video
Bukit Tinjau (video)
Bukit Tunggul (video)
Bukit Singkug
Gunung Minodtuhan (2,360 Metres / 7,743 ft): video
Bukit Pinontungan (1,119.6 Metres / 3,673 ft)
Bukit Bogung via purak ogis (866 Metres / 2841 ft)
Bukit Karak: video
Bukit Kowatuan (986 Metres / 3,235 ft): Facebook
Bukit Kolumpisau (1,033 Metres / 3,389 ft)
Dulu Hill: video, Facebook
Nandal Hill: video
Nulu Koimayaan: Facebook
Gunung Sadok
Bukit Bagong via narinang
Bukit Kujau
Bukit Mogilin
Bukit Trinity Kg Pandat

Bukit Botak / Bukit Gundul in Sepanggar is named after its bald top

Kota Kinabalu (KK)

Bukit Kokol / Kokol Hill
Bonduk Hill (Bukit Gundul / Bukit Botak)
Bukit Padang, famous jogging park of KK people
Bukit Helang (at Kg. Kebagu, Sepanggar): Facebook, video
Bukit Janggut (300 Metres / 984 ft): video 1, video 2
Bukit Kopungit
Bukit Tuah (660 Metres / 2,165 ft)
Kolonutan Hill (575 Metres / 1,886 ft): Facebook
Signal Hill
Sinundu Hill: video 1, video 2
UMS Peak (190 Metres / 623 ft): video
Bukit Bubuk
Bukit Lumpugou

Kota Marudu

Gunung Nombuyukong (1,603.57 Metres / 5,261 ft)
Gunung Minitinduk (1,059 Metres / 3,474 ft): video
Bukit Cinta
Bukit Pancaran /TV
Bukit Doa
Bukit Lotong
Bukit Mundan: Facebook, video
Bukit Tagaroh
Rumun Kondiu Hill (715 Metres / 2,347 ft): Facebook, video
Sagang Hill: Facebook, video
Mt. Cochrane (580 Metres / 1,903 ft): video

You can see Philippines from the top of Senambung Hill, Banggi Island

Kudat

Gumantung Hill (405 Metres / 1,329 ft), Matunggong: Facebook, Video
Senambung / Sinambung Hill (529 Metres / 1,736 ft), Banggi Island: Video

Kunak

Bukit Madai, edible bird nest mountain
Bukit Tongkat Ali
Bukit Pidung
Bukit Tisop (Madai Cave): video

Pyramid Hills of Kundasang

Kundasang and Ranau

Mount Kinabalu (4,095 Metres / 13,435 ft), the highest mountain of Malaysia
Mount Tambuyukon (2,579 Metres / 8,461 ft), the 4th highest mountain of Malaysia (tough!)
Mount Mantapok (1,481 Metres / 4,959 ft): Facebook, video
Maragang Hill (2,232 Metres / 7,323 ft): Facebook, Video
Bukit Lugas Kg Waang Ranau (1,215 Metres / 3,986 ft): Facebook
Sosodikon Hill / Bukit Pyramid (1,465 Metres / 4,806 ft): Facebook, video
Bukit Dompurungon
Bukit Hampuan Forest Reserve
Bukit Kamunsu, Sabah Tea Garden
Bukit Kimondou, Kg. Kibbas (899 Metres / 2,950 ft): video, Facebook
Tinorindak Hill (2,330 Metres / 7,644 ft)
Bukit Babi (Swine or Pig Hill)

Mountain range of Mount Tambuyukon, the third highest mountain of Malaysia. You can tell it is hard to climb.

Lahad Datu

Mount Silam
Bukit Piton: Facebook
Bukit Belacon: video 1, video 2
Bukit Klasik (Classic Hill): video
Taruakan Hill, Pulau Sakar: Facebook, video
Mount Danum (1,093 Metres / 3,586 ft)

Long Pasia

Bukit Botoii: video

Membakut

Bukit Samudera

There are many unnamed hills in Sabah, like those in Balambangan Island

Papar / Kinarut

Bukit Bendera
Bukit Boya, Outward Bound School
Kinandukan Hill / Bukit Kinandukan Kelanahan (135 Metres / 443 ft): Facebook, video
Bukit Kuburan
Bukit Lumagas

Pitas

Morovidu Hill: video
Piniapat Hill (141 Metres / 463 ft): Facebook, Video
Mondou Hill (Bukit Mondou) (<80 Metres)
Bukit Tudturan

Batu Tulug Hill in Kinabatangan. Its caves are ancient burial site with 125 wooden coffins of 200 to 250 years old

Sandakan / Kinabatangan

Batu Tulug, the coffin hill (ancient burial site)
Berhala Island (Peak 1: Menara Api, Peak 2: Bohey Dulang)
Bukit Leila
Bukit Mawar
Bukit Sim Sim
Bukit Sundang
Bukit Trig
Bukit Seguntor or IOI Peak (305 Metres / 1,001 ft): video 1, video 2
Mount Walker
Bukit Melanta
Bukit Nenas
Bukit Sapa Taring

Sapulut

Batu Punggul (244 Metres / 800 ft)

Semporna

Bukit Tengkorak / Skull Hill (183 Metres / 597 ft)
Bohey Dulang, beautiful sea view of Semporna Islands Park
Bukit Kemiri
Bukit Parapat: video
Bukit Pokas
Mount Conner (368 Metres / 1,207 ft): video

Bohey Dulang Island of Tun Sakaran Marine Park, Semporna. The sea view on top of these hills is super awesome

Sipitang

Mount Lumaku (1,900 Metres / 6,234 ft)
Mount Rimau / Senipung Hill (2,025 Metres / 6,644 ft), Long Pasia
Gunung Muruk Miau
Bukit Tampalagas: video

Hanging garden of Mount Trus Madi. Can you spot the climbers?

Tambunan

Mount Trus Madi (2,642 Metres / 8,668 ft), the second highest mountain of Malaysia
Gunung Wakid (1,372 Metres / 4,501 ft)
Gunung Sinsing (2,586 Metres / 8,484 ft) and Gunung Kaingaran (2,468 Metres / 8,097 ft): article 1, article 2, video
Bukit Dandab / Dandab Hill (Tambunan Viewing Point or Sinurambi)
Bukit Lugas
Bukit Dampasak (950 Metres / 3,117 ft)
Bukit Kolindasan (1,130 Metres / 3,707 ft)
Bukit Kalas (Kg Tontolob)
Bukit Kimbolung

Gunung Wakid in Tambunan

Tamparuli

Ruhiang Hill / Bukit Perahu (300 Metres / 984 ft)
Bukit Kusai
Bukit Mayang
Mara Kara Hill (641 Metres / 2,103 ft): Facebook, Videos (part 1, part 2)
Malba Trig Hill
Nomburungui Hill
Bukit Talantang (332 Metres / 1,089 ft)
Bukit Sinagang
Bukit Kulintangan

Tawau

Bombalai Hill (530 Metres / 1,089 ft), ancient volcano rim
Mount Lucia (1,240 Metres / 4,068 ft) & Mount Magdalena (1,312 Metres / 4,304 ft): video (part 1, 2, 3, 4)
Mount Wullersdorf, Balung: Facebook, video
Mount Lutong (1,675 Metres / 5,436 ft): highest point of Maliau Basin
Bukit Pancang (Bukit Tinagat) (398 Metres / 1,306 ft): video
Bukit Gemok (428 Metres / 1,404 ft)
Bukit 38
Bukit Akar: video
Bukit Cinta (276 Metres / 906 ft): video
Bukit Hero: video
Bukit Kayawan: video
Bukit King Kong (Batu Payung): video 1, video 2
Bukit Lim Man Kui: video
Bukit Lipan
Bukit Middle
Bukit Sungai Udin
Bukit Tiger (407.9 Metres / 1,338 ft)
Bukit Tukok, Kalabakan
Lion Hill
Gunung Maria
Mount Mostyn (495 Metres / 1,624 ft)
Bukit Batu Hitam
Bukit Lika / Bukit Botak
Bukit Sumundu

Bukit Tirig in Telipok. Behind is the mangrove forest

Telipok

Bukit Nulu Kebayau
Bukit Tirig, Kg. Lapasan
Bukit Binaong
Bukit Kayu Madang
Bukit Malawa
Bukit Payung

Tenom

Bukit Layang-Layang
Bukit Rukud (281 Metres / 922 ft): video

Telupid

Mount Meliau (1,336 Metres / 4,383 ft): video
Bukit Doji
Bukit Microwave

Tongod

Bukit RISM (Gunung Tinkar) (584.2 Metres / 1,917 ft), Centre of Sabah

Bukit RISM in the Centre of Sabah. This monument is built by Royal Institution of Surveyors Malaysia (RISM)

Tuaran & Kiulu

Bukit Nuluh Lapai
Bukit Kapur
Bukit Ketam, Tenghilan Tuaran: video 1, video 2
Bukit Merlin / Morokolingn
Bukit Merah, Karambunai
Bukit Purak Mato, Kiulu (720 Metres / 2,362 ft)
Bukit Tompinangan / Gray Hill
Bukit Tungkalingan
Dapako Hill, Kiulu (598 Metres / 1,961 ft): Facebook, video
Kokobuan Trig Hill (950 Metres / 3117 ft): Facebook, video
Sangod Hill: Facebook
The Peak of Hope

It would take you almost 3 years to conquer all of them, even if you climb a new one every week, and there are probably hundred more new mountains to be added to this list in future. For every mountain that we conquer, it’s like making a new friend and you will always want to go back again. Stay safe and happy climbing!

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

How to Climb Mount Kinabalu and How Much it Cost? [Year 2024]

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Standing majestically at 4,095 Meters (13,435 feet), Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain of Malaysia. Mt. Kinabalu derives its name from the Kadazan word, Aki Nabalu, meaning ‘the revered place of the dead’. It is one of the most conquerable peaks in the world. This guide will help you to reach the summit of Mount Kinabalu, with some info that travel agents don’t want you to know.

Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain of Borneo and Malaysia and part of Kinabalu Park. Kinabalu Park is now a Unesco Global Geopark.

The maximum number of climbers (daily quota) is 165 climbers per day.
Climb Permit fee is now RM400 for foreigner; RM100 for Malaysian. Half price if the climber is below 18 years old.
Child under 16 must be accompanied by a dedicated Mountain Guide. Each Mountain Guide can only take up to 2 children (or up to 5 adult climbers).
Mountain Guide who takes care of children will not guide adult climber. For example, if your group has 3 adult and a child (below 16) climbers, you must hire two mountain guides (one to take care of adults, another one for child only).
The rate of mountain guide service (mandatory) is RM350.
Porter service (optional) costs RM14 per Kilogram (Kg).
You may follow the Facebook of Sabah Parks for latest news and promotion.

Mount Kinabalu’s specialty lies in its location at a renowned World Heritage Site – Kinabalu Park. Nature lovers will be delighted to be able to witness the many variations of flora and fauna that are to be found on the mountain at different altitudes.

1. How much does it cost?

Quick Answer: The lowest budget for climbing Mount Kinabalu is about RM1,019 (≈USD237) for Non-Malaysian Tourist and RM444 for Malaysian (Based on the rates of year 2023, for adult climber who shares guide fee with others). The cost includes accommodation (at Panalaban), meals, shared mountain guide fee, conservation fee, climb permit, and insurance. Please download the Excel file to see the itemized budget.

The Best Time to climb Mt. Kinabalu is between March and August, which are the dry seasons of Sabah. The peak season is Apr to Jun.
You can climb in other months, but try to avoid Dec and Jan, which are the wettest months, due to the North-East Monsoon
The mountain accommodation area (known as Panalaban), where Laban Rata Rest House and hostels located, is 2.72 KM before the summit of Mt. Kinabalu. Most climbers overnight here before conquering Mt. Kinabalu in next morning.
If you are not allowed to climb to the summit of Mt. Kinabalu due to bad weather, there is No Refund.

Panalaban is the area where mountain accommodations located. It’s called Laban Rata previously.

How to Book a Climb Package

Booking the one-night Accommodation at Panalaban (formerly Laban Rata) is the FIRST step. You can’t climb Mt. Kinabalu if you haven’t reserved any room on the mountain. Camping on the mountain is not allowed.

Important notes:

You must book at least 6 months in advance. The park allows only 80 climbers to climb per day, due to conservation and limited rooms, so the accommodation is always fully booked.
Never, I repeat, never book with any individual who claims that he is a guide and can offer you very low price. Many tourists have been scammed and lost their money. Only book with licensed travel agents and legitimate operators (i.e. Sutera Sanctuary Lodge and Sabah Parks).
Conquering Mt. Kinabalu requires only 2 days 1 night.
However, to let climbers to get used to high altitude, Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (management of Laban Rata Resthouse) usually sells you 3-day-2-night accommodation (with 1 extra night at Kinabalu Park, foothill of Mt. Kinabalu).
The cheaper accommodations, Panar Laban Hut, Waras Hut, Panalaban Hostels and Lemaing Hostel are next to Laban Rata Resthouse.
All accommodation package is inclusive of full meals (buffet style).

There are four ways to book the climb package:

1. Book with Travel Agent

If you can afford, just book the tour package with licensed tour agents of Sabah. Though you will pay more, they will take care of everything, from transportation, registration, to the end of climb. This is the Best option.

2. Book with Sabah Parks

Next to Laban Rata Resthouse, Lemaing Hostel and Panalaban Hostels are new (and cheaper) accommodation available to climbers. Lemaing Hostel is only open to Malaysian climbers, and Panalaban Hostels is open to both Malaysian and international climbers. You can book the accommodation directly with Sabah Parks, the management of these hostels. Please note you need to to pay other mandatory fees such as climb permit, insurance and guide fee, besides the meals and accommodation there.

Accommodations on Mount Kinabalu (Panalaban). Mokodou and Kinotoki are under Panalaban Hostels. Photo courtesy of Sabah Parks.

A) Lemaing Hostel (for Malaysian only)

Open in 2014, this hostel has 75 bunk beds . (RM is Malaysian Ringgit (MYR). USD1.00 can exchange about RM4.20)
Accommodation & Meals: RM340
Insurance: RM10
Climb Permit: RM100 (adult), RM50 (below 18)

Left: Bunk Beds of Lemaing Hostel. Right: Beds of Panalaban Hostels. Both hostels have shared bathroom and toilet. Latest check-out time is 10:30am.

B) Panalaban Hostels (for Malaysian and Foreigner)

Open in 2019, Panalaban Hostels (Kinotoki and Mokodou) can accommodate 50 climbers.
Accommodation & Meals: RM430
Insurance: RM10
Climb Permit: (Malaysian rate) RM100 (adult), RM50 (below 18); (Foreigner Rate) RM400 (adult), RM200 (below 18)

Climbing and accommodation fees (year 2023) of Panalaban (left) and Lemaing (right) Hostels. Note: Lemaing Hostel is open for Malaysians only.

Sabah Parks Contact:

You can visit Sabah Parks office located in KK Times Square (Kota Kinabalu City) to book room and make payment:
Opening Hour: 8:00AM – 5:00PM, Mon-Fri (closed on Sat, Sun & Public Holiday)
Phone: +60 88-523531 / +60 88-523572
E-mail: reservation2023@sabahparks.org.my, sabahparks@gmail.com
Website: www.sabahparks.org.my
Facebook: SbhParks
Booking Website: reservation.sabahparks.org.my (Phone: +60 88-273238, E-mail: contactus@terazglobal.com.my)

Left: Lemaing Hostel, Right: Panalaban Hostel (Mokodou & Kinotoki). Photo Credit: Sabah Parks

3. Book with Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (SSL)

SSL is the management of accommodation in Kinabalu Park and Laban Rata Resthouse. For booking, you can contact them at:
E-mail: info@suterasanctuarylodges.com.my
Tel: +60 88 308 914 / 308 915 / 308 916
Website: www.suterasanctuarylodges.com.my
Facebook: SuteraSanctuary
Address: B-G-9, Block B, Ground Floor, Sutera Avenue, Lorong Lebuh Sutera, Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia. (see location map)
Business Hours: 9am-5pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-1pm (Sat), close on Sun & Public Holiday

Online Booking is available in website of Sutera Sanctuary Lodges. You may drop by the office of SSL, which is located in ground floor of Sutera Avenue. Besides booking, the friendly staffs can answer all your questions on the spot. They can arrange full transport service for you too (the fees are quite high though).

4. Mountain TORQ

You can join the Via Ferrata tour by Mountain TORQ (Facebook: @MountainTorqGroup), which has a rock climbing training centre and accommodation (Pendant Hut) at Panalaban. However, you need to be really fit.

Trail map to the summit of Mount Kinabalu. There are two summit routes, Ranau Trail and Kota Belud Trail, and both start from Panalaban. Ranau trail is the default route as it’s easier to climb.

Itinerary of the Climb

Below is a run-down of the 3-day-2-night climbing tour in brief.

Day 1

Check-in to overnight at Kinabalu Park (see location map), which is 88 KM away from Kota Kinabalu (KK). The extra night helps your body to adapt to the height so you will be less vulnerable to Altitude Sickness (acute mountain sickness) in the climb next day. Here is a list of accommodations near Kinabalu Park.

Day 2

9am: Bring your ID card (e.g. MyKad), invoice and QR Code of confirmed booking. Register and pay fees (climb permit, insurance, guide, etc.) by cash to Sabah Parks at Kinabalu Park HQ. Collect your name tag (climb permit) and packed lunch (usually consists of sandwiches, candy bar and a fruit, with a small bottle of drinking water), then meet your guide and porter (if hired). You also can arrange the return transport (by shuttle van) there to transfer you between gate and park for a fee. Be there before 10:30am or they won’t allow you to climb.
9:30am: Transfer to Timpohon Gate, the starting point of the climb.
10am: Start of Climb, after briefing by guide!
4pm: Reach Panalaban after 6 KM. Usually it takes 6 to 8 hours, depend on your fitness.
– Dinner buffet at Laban Rata Rest House (closed by 7:30pm)
– Overnight at the rest house or hostels of Panalaban

Left: Registration, fee payment, return transport and hiring of guide / porter are done at the left side of Kinabalu Park HQ (see yellow arrow). Right: climbers meet their mountain guide, and hand over part of their baggage to the porters.

Day 3

2am: Gather and having breakfast at Laban Rata Rest House, then head to the summit (2.75 KM one way).
(The park may not allow you to climb in bad weather)
6am: Reaching the summit (Low’s Peak) of Mount Kinabalu
7am: Descending to Panalaban
10am: Check-out and descend to Kinabalu Park
2:00pm: Back to Kota Kinabalu City

This can be you. Just imagine.

Photo Walk-through

Below are the photo walk-through of the 2-day climb in chronological order. Standard climb will use the Ranau summit trail (open on 1 Dec 2015). Note: The starting point is in Kinabalu Park, not Ranau town! Or you can watch the video below:

Day 1: Climbing to Panalaban

The standard trail starts from the Timpohon Gate (1,800m / 5,906 ft) which is about 4 KM away from the Kinabalu Park Headquarters. The climb from Timpohon Gate to Panalaban (Laban Rata) normally takes 6 to 8 hours (for 6 KM). You can buy basic supply such as snacks, drink and raincoat in the small shop inside the building.

Left: Timpohon Gate, the starting point of the climb. Right: public toilet 50 Metres before Timpohon Gate

There is a signage or trail marker every 0.5 or 1 KM to show you how far you climb. Use them to motivate yourself.

Left: You will see the small Carson Waterfall fairly soon. Middle & Right: Signage and trail marker along the trail.

Before reaching Panalaban (3,273m / 10,738 ft above sea level), climbers can stop and rest at seven shelters (pondok) along the way — Pondok Kandis, Pondok Ubah, Pondok Lowii, Pondok Mempening, Layang-Layang, Pondok Villosa, and Pondok Paka.

There is a shelter every 1 KM, where you can take a break, refill water (untreated spring water), use the toilet and dump your trash. Around noon time, most climbers are half-way up there and have their lunch at Mempening or Layang-Layang Shelter. The cute and friendly Bornean Mountain Ground Squirrel (Dremomys everetti) would approach you for food. Please don’t feed them!

The trails to Panalaban look like these most of the time.

The 6-Kilometre trail to Panalaban is clear and in moderate steepness most of the time. All steep sections have support such as hand rail and stairway. You will feel more like walking on endless staircase than climbing. Just go slow and enjoy the scenic view. As you move higher, you can feel the drop of temperature and the surrounding is getting more and more foggy. The ground is covered with green mosses and many trees and shrubs have epiphytes and lichens on them. What you experience is a walk in the cloud forest (montane forest), which grows above 1,800 Metres above sea level.

Some interesting plant along the summit trail of Kinabalu Park. The pink flower is Kinabalu Balsam (Impatiens kinabaluensis), which is endemic to Borneo and quite common in first 2 KM of summit trail. The highlight is the pitcher plant (Nepenthes villosa).

Along the trails, be sure to keep your eyes open for the plenteous interesting vegetation to check out. The unique ecology is what makes Kinabalu Park the UNESCO World Heritage Site, not just the Mt. Kinabalu. Kinabalu Park has the highest density of orchid species in the world. Climbers could spot blooming orchid and rhododendron next to the trail. After 4 KM, pay attention to your left and look for the big and bright-color Nepenthes villosa pitcher plant in the shrubs. This species is endemic to Kinabalu Park of Sabah.

The rocks on the “yellow path” are ancient old rocks.

Between 4 and 5 KM is a long section of trail in yellow colour. These yellowish rocks are 40-million-year-old ultrabasic or ultramafic rocks. This area is dominated by dwarf and crooked trees (Leptospermum recurvum), some are over a hundred years old. This tree is one of the few plant that can adapt to the toxic ultrabasic soil.

If you reach the trail with many big granite boulders laying around, you are near to Panalaban.

When you see many big dark-grey boulders on the trail, congratulations! Though Panalaban is only a Kilometre away now, the trail is quite steep from now on. These boulders are slippery after rain so watch your steps. A walking pole will help you to balance.

Panalaban is the ending point of your climb on day 1. The building at the left is Laban Rata Resthouse.

Hooray! You are now 3,272 metres above sea level. This is the place where climbers spend a night. The restaurant of Laban Rata Resthouse is where you claim your warm buffet meals. You better reach Panalaban before the restaurant closes at 7:30pm. Ala carte meals are available too.

Restaurant in Laban Rata Resthouse (Opening Hours: 7:30am-7:30pm and 2:00am-3:30am)

The scenery at Panalaban is fantastic! Just enjoy the view with a cup of coffee at the balcony, and look at the dense cloud under your feet. The sunset view at Panalaban is one of the best in Sabah. There is a small shop in the restaurant that sells items such as snacks, instant noodle, drink, poncho, medicines, postcards, etc. but at a higher price.

Left: sending postcards from the highest postbox in Malaysia. Right: amazing sunset at Panalaban

FYI, you can send postcard from the highest post box of Malaysia, which is located next to Pendant Hut in Panalaban. There are overnight accommodations provided for climbers on the mountain (Laban Rata Rest House, Waras Hut, Lemaing Hostel and Panalaban Hostels). The rooms are humbly decorated but are comfortably equipped thick blankets, bunk beds, as well as clean drinking water.

Left: bunk bed of Lemaing Hostel. Right: It’s cold at Panalaban.

The temperature at Panalaban can drop below 10°C (50°F) and a windy day makes it worse. Except some premium rooms in Laban Rata Resthouse, most rooms don’t have any heater. The water heater doesn’t always work. Tell you a secret. Many climbers skip shower because it’s too cold.

Good Night! Sleep earlier because you need to wake up very early next day.

“Though perhaps not the highest mountain in the world, it is of immense height” (captain Alexander Dalrymple, 1769)

Please note this walk-through only covers the standard summit trail named Ranau Trail. If you want to know more about another new summit trail, which is more challenging, please read this page about Kota Belud Trail.

Day 2: Conquering Mount Kinabalu

The climb to the summit resumes at 2am the next morning. The climb from Panalaban to the summit is about 2.72 KM and normally takes 4 to 5 hours. To cut down weight, you can leave the unnecessary stuffs in your room. There is no water point on the way (except Sayat-Sayat checkpoint). Carrying 1 Litre of water is quite enough as you won’t feel really thirsty under cold temperature. You also need torchlight (or LED headlamp), warm clothing and poncho.

Left: In Ranau Trail, you can see the night view of Ranau town. Right: Boardwalk of Ranau trail

After briefing by your mountain guide, the ascend will start with nearly two hours of steep staircase climbing in the dark. The only way is up. You can see long line of torchlight of other climbers. You will be tired, stop and gasping for air for many times. Without air and light pollution, the sky is full of stars, a beautiful view you will never forget.

Ranau trail of Mount Kinabalu, not difficult but tiring.

Left: The rope section. Right: Sayat-Sayat Checkpoint

Then you will come to the rope section, the most challenging part that requires you to hold onto a rope to move up for a few hundreds metres. Soon you will be happy to see the Sayat-Sayat checkpoint. Climbers can rest there for a while and use the last toilet on the mountain trail.

Left: Rockface path. Right: The bald surface on Mount Kinabalu

After Sayat-Sayat, the trail will be mainly rock surface with 15 to 20 degrees of inclination. The dense vegetation is replaced by scarce summit plant on the bald granite ground.

Left: South Peak in the RM100 bill of Malaysia. Right: friendly climbers from Peninsular Malaysia

Anyway, the scenery just gets better at this point. In fact, it’s one of the most beautiful places in Malaysia. You are like wandering in another planet and admire the jagged peaks around you. The most photogenic peaks are the Donkey Ears Peak and South Peak.

Left: Signage at 8th KM. Right: Wishing Pool under Low’s Peak, always filled with coins

The air on the mountain is 20% thinner near the top of Mount Kinabalu. You will feel that your body is heavy and every move takes a lot of energy. Due to exhaustion, nine out of ten climbers would start to curse and say “why am I doing here?”. Though they complain, after the climb they will miss this mountain and come back again lol.

Low’s Peak, the highest peak of Mount Kinabalu, and the final ending point of the climb

After the 8 KM signage, the summit on Low’s Peak is less than a Kilometre away. Your goal is simple, just keep moving slowly in steady pace. The last two hundreds of rope climbing to this highest peak will drain your last energy reserve. The sweet reward is reserved to those who persist. Conquering Mount Kinabalu is once in a lifetime experience and must be in your bucket list.

Tasting the victory: spectacular view on the summit of Mount Kinabalu. Bonus: If you reach the peak before 6am, you will be rewarded by the beautiful sunrise view on the highest mountain of Borneo.

About 50,000 climbers leaves their footsteps on Mount Kinabalu annually. Despite the struggle, none of them shows the face of regret on the top. You have only an hour to enjoy the moment of your sweet victory, because the guide will ask you to leave the summit before 8am, before the mountain covered in dense fog (poor visibility).

Left: sub-alpine vegetation on Mount Kinabalu. Right: Aki View Platform

When you hike back to your hostel in Panalaban, do slow down a bit to appreciate the unique plant and flowers during the descend. Without daylight in night climb, you didn’t realise that you were surrounded by the most valuable eco-treasures of Borneo.

Left: Old man’s beard Fruticose lichen (Usnea) on the trees. Right: Kinabalu Park is a garden rich of plant species

Lastly, don’t forget to collect your certificate (for a fee) at Kinabalu Park office as a proof of your successful climb.

Tips and Advice

Pack Light. Don’t carry more than 6 Kg of weight for the climb. Those bringing huge backpacks can hire a porter (for a fee) to reduce the burden. Your porter will head straight to Panalaban in great speed and won’t be walking next to the slow you, so do not let them carry your water and raincoat.
The climate is cool with an average temperature range of 15°C to 24°C (59°F to 75°F) at the Kinabalu Park Headquarters and 6°C to 10°C (42°F to 50°F) on the mountain. It can even go down to freezing point in coldest months (Nov-Dec). Climbers are recommended to wear breathable cotton clothing and comfortable pair of hiking shoes.
Climbers are also reminded to be ready with torch lights, raincoats and warm clothes in case it rains and the temperature drops.
Descending stresses your knee and muscle more than ascending. Try to descend slowly to avoid serious joint and muscle pain later.
Trail can be slippery after rain. Wear comfortable trekking or hiking shoes with good grip (best if it’s waterproof).
Stay with your group and Mountain Guide at all times. Never walk off trail.
Don’t climb if you have ailments such as asthma, hypertension, diabetes, heart disease and other sickness that severely affects your fitness.
Always book the tour with licensed tour agent. There have been many cases tourists cheated by unlicensed agents.
Mt. Kinabalu is the Sacred Mountain (resting place of the deceased) of Sabah. Please be respectful and refrain from doing anything offensive such as taking nude photo.
Follow the social media of Sabah Parks for latest update on travel restriction. Currently, only our locals can climb the mountain.

Climbing outfit: Day 1 vs Day 2. You don’t need thick clothing for climbing on day 1, but pack a warm jacket in your bag. On day 2, you need to prepare for near freezing point temperature. You must have poncho or water resistant clothing in case it rains.

Things to Bring

Passport / MyKad (for registration)
Proof of Accommodation Booking and Payment
Cash (most transactions are by cash)
Drinking Water (in Refillable 1 Litre water bottle)
LED Headlamp (head torch)
Energy Bars / Chocolate Bars
Light Backpack (preferably with rain cover)
Raincoat / Poncho (Murphy’s Law says it’ll rain if you don’t bring one)
Toiletries (e.g. toilet paper, soap, toothbrush, toothpaste)
Warm Clothing (e.g. Wind breaker, Fleece, Jacket)
Extra clothing and socks
Gloves (to keep warm and rope climbing)
Ear Warmer
Towel
Camera and spare Battery
Medication such as painkiller, headache or altitude sickness tablet
Plastic bags: to store rubbish and soiled clothes
Optional: walking pole, sunblock lotion, sunglasses, portable charger

I hope you find this guide useful. Please feel free to comment or ask any question in the Comment section below.

Photos taken in Kinabalu Park and Mount Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

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