Category Archives: Food

Sipitang Satay, the Best Satay of Sabah?

The scent of a particular perfume could remind you of someone you love, while the aroma of sizzling satay smoke transports me back to the tantalizing taste of satay in Sipitang town. Considered the best satay in Sabah, Sipitang Satay is the town’s trademark food, just like how we have Tenom Coffee and Tuaran Noodle in Sabah.

Sipitang, the biggest town near the Sabah-Sarawak border in Malaysia, is a popular pitstop for travelers heading between Sabah, Sarawak, and Brunei. Despite its small-town charm with no fancy malls or hotels, it’s a favorite spot to take a break, grab some delicious satay, and enjoy the coastal views after a long drive. And it’s from here that the fame of Sipitang Satay has spread across Borneo.

A friendly tourist from Brunei who visits Sipitang quite often for the yummy satay, so Sipitang Satay has become known “internationally” because Bruneians also love it.

To uncover the secrets behind Sipitang Satay’s irresistible flavour, I embarked on a nearly three-hour drive from KK to Sipitang. As I arrived in Sipitang around noon, the tantalizing aroma of grilled satay filled the air, a signature scent of the town. Following the trail of smoke, I made my way to a bustling hawker centre housed in a white-roofed building at the esplanade.

The hawker center at Sipitang Esplanade. Now, diners can enjoy satay sheltered from the hot sun and rain.

At the hawker centre, rows of colourful tables and chairs were occupied by approximately 20 stalls offering an array of satay and other local delicacies. It was a hub where one could indulge in three iconic Malaysian foods: satay, ketupat, and ABC (Mixed Ice Dessert). The tantalising aroma, enticing appearance, and sizzling sounds of the satay set my stomach rumbling. Legend has it that no one leaves this satay kingdom with an empty stomach, so I knew I had to eat.

Satay stalls of Sipitang town. They also sells variety of halal food such as chicken wings and noodles.

About Satay

For those unfamiliar with Malaysia’s most popular street food, satay (also known as sate or satai in Malay) originated from Java, Indonesia, and has existed since the 15th century. It’s a Southeast Asian form of kebab made from seasoned, skewered, and barbecued meat, typically served with a side sauce. Each country has its own unique way of preparing satay.

Satay is the most popular street food of Malaysia.

Malaysian satay is crafted from tender and juicy diced or sliced pieces of marinated chicken, beef, or lamb (or mutton). These meat pieces are skewered and barbecued over charcoal embers, imparting a delightful smoky and tangy flavour.

Beef Satay, Chicken Satay, and Lamb Satay are the three most popular types of Malaysian satay.

To fully savour your satay experience, dip each skewer into the thick peanut sauce (or satay sauce), which is considered the soul of satay. The savoury meat pairs wonderfully with the sweet and creamy sauce, enhancing the overall flavour and mouthfeel of the dish. The satay sauce typically comprises ground toasted peanuts, spices, and sugar. A well-made homemade peanut sauce can greatly enhance the taste of your satay.

Satay is best served with peanut sauce; they are a perfect pair.

For a satisfying meal, accompany your satay with ketupat or kelupis rice cakes. Ketupat is compressed rice wrapped in coconut fronds, while kelupis is a traditional and sweet delicacy of the Orang Brunei of Sabah, made from glutinous rice and wrapped in leaves.

Ketupat (left) and Kelupis (right) are traditional Malaysian rice cakes. Both are delicious when dipped with peanut sauce.

To complement your satay, diced cucumber and onions serve as refreshing condiments, helping to reduce the oily feel on your taste buds. While these vegetables are not typically provided by default at Sipitang stalls, you can always request them. The owner of Satay Siga-Siga kindly provided us with some for photography purposes.

Satay being BBQ’d over the grill stove. The aromatic smoke is a crowd magnet.

I highly recommend Satay Siga-Siga (they didn’t pay me to say this). You can verify my recommendation by checking out other online reviews. The seats at Satay Siga-Siga are always the first to be fully occupied, and even Bruneians know them.

Satay Siga-Siga serves excellent satay, highly recommended by me and many others.

Types of Sipitang Satay

There are three main types of satay: beef (sate daging), chicken (sate ayam), and lamb (sate kambing), which are the best-selling varieties. Beef satay (sate daging) is favoured for its rich flavour and texture. Chicken satay (sate ayam) appeals to those who prefer tender white meat. Lamb satay (sate kambing) boasts the strongest flavour, ideal for those who appreciate its distinct goaty aroma, though it’s the most expensive option.

Platter of beef, chicken and lamb satay. Nice to meat you. Beef and Chicken Satay cost RM0.80 to RM1.00 each, while Lamb Satay is priced at RM1.50 to RM2.00. Different stalls may have varying selling prices. (Prices are accurate as of January 2024 and may vary in the future).

Another popular satay variety is Sate Tungking/Tongkeng/Buntut (chicken tail satay). Initially, the idea of eating ‘chicken butt’ may seem off-putting, but I became a fan after my first taste. While chicken tail is quite fatty, its meat is incredibly tender. The fat of Sate Buntut is grilled until it’s slightly burnt and crispy on the outside, allowing you to enjoy the juicy and springy meat. I usually only have 1 or 2 skewers before it starts feeling too greasy.

The oily chicken tail satay goes well with the sweet and spicy dark sauce. These satay are overcooked though. Sate Buntut costs about RM1.50 each.

Sate Berubut (Beef Tripe Satay) and Hati Buyah (Beef Lungs Satay) taste like a soft version of jerky. While they offer interesting textures, I personally don’t find them very appetising, especially without seasoning. In fact, they can be rather bland. These varieties are definitely an acquired taste and may not be a safe choice for those who dislike offal. It’s worth noting that they often cost the same or even more than the more well-liked varieties of satay.

Sate Berubut (Beef Tripe Satay) and Sate Hati Buyah (Beef Lungs Satay). They cost from RM1.00 to RM1.50 each.

Why Sipitang Satay Tastes So Good?

The delicious taste of Sipitang Satay is only half of the story. Science can explain why Sipitang Satay stands out compared to equally good satay made elsewhere. Professor Charles Spence unraveled some of these secrets in his book ‘Gastrophysics: The New Science of Eating.’ Big firms like Nestle and PepsiCo also employ his formula to stimulate you to buy more.

No other satay experience compares to enjoying it with a sea view in Sipitang.

Over 20 years of research by Professor Charles Spence reveals that eating is a multisensory experience, engaging tastes, sights, sounds, smells, and emotions. These senses collectively shape our perception of food and contribute to the pleasure it brings. For instance, food may taste bland on airplanes due to the dampening effect of dry air, engine noise, low cabin pressure, and confined space on our senses.

Food tastes better when we’re relaxed and dining in a pleasant environment like by the seaside at sunset.

The multisensory atmosphere of Sipitang town is shaped by several factors:

Emotions: Many visitors to Sipitang are holidaymakers with their families, and their relaxed and positive moods heighten their senses, enhancing their enjoyment of the satay.
Sights: The breathtaking panoramic sea view and stunning sunset at Sipitang Esplanade add to the overall experience.
Sounds: The soothing sea breeze and gentle lull of the waves create a relaxing auditory backdrop.
Smells: The tantalising aroma of sizzling satay permeates the air, further enriching the sensory experience.

You also can order other food and drink at the hawker centre. e.g. Coconut juice (left) and Ais Batu Campur, the Mixed Ice Dessert (right)

Fine dining restaurants use classy background music, expensive cutlery, fancy decorations, and creative plating to offer a multisensory dining experience, so they can charge you three-digit prices for a meal. In contrast, the one-dollar satay in Sipitang is truly a steal for foodies.

After enjoying your satay, take a leisurely stroll at Sipitang Esplanade to soak in the beautiful view.

How to Get There

To get to the hawker centre selling Sipitang Satay, head approximately 140 km south of Kota Kinabalu City (KK) to the esplanade in the centre of Sipitang town (see Location Map or Street Map). The drive takes about 2 hours and 40 minutes on asphalt roads of fair condition.

As it’s a long journey, consider turning it into a road trip and exploring other towns such as Papar, Bongawan and Beaufort along the way. Keep in mind that during school holidays, Sipitang Satay may sell out earlier than usual.

Photos taken in Sipitang, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Trip to the Cocoa Village of Tawau, the Chocolate Capital

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What food is cool 4,000 years ago and is still cool today? Today it is found in cakes, candy, drinks, desserts, ice-cream and cookies, you name it. In the past, Mayans praised chocolate as the drink of the gods, and the Aztecs (Mexica) believed that cocoa seeds were the gift of Quetzalcoatl, the god of wisdom. Now chocolate is also a food of love that you give to your crushes on Valentines’ Day.

Display at the entrance of Teck Guan Cocoa Village

Cocoa in Sabah

Cocoa is the main ingredient of chocolate. Malaysia is one of the major cocoa-producing countries in Asia, and over 60% of Malaysian cocoa beans are from Tawau of Sabah State. Teck Guan Cocoa Village is one of the earliest plantations to cultivate cocoa in Tawau. This village is also a family-friendly destination opens to public.

Quoin Hill at Teck Guan Cocoa Village is an extinct volcano. Its fertile volcanic soil is ideal for cocoa plantation.

For teachers and parents, a visit to the cocoa village offers an excellent outdoor education to make learning fun to their children. Because of Internet, the new generations spend far more time in virtual world than real world that some of them are even afraid of chicken. Gosh, where’s our hope in future if we have kids who are spooked by “food”? Anyway, adults would find the tour at cocoa village interesting too. Who doesn’t like chocolate?

Left: cold cocoa drink at Cocoa Village. Right: Abiu fruit, also known as “I Love You” fruit

Five Fun Things to Do at Cocoa Village

The tour to Teck Guan Cocoa Village takes about half-day (from 10am to 3pm) and requires booking in advance. The staff there will give you a guided tour to experience the wonders of nature and cocoa fruits. The following is a walk-through of the tour. My guide is Ms. Chida, a friendly sino who can speak English, Chinese and Malay.

You may watch this video for a quick overview of the cocoa village tour

1) Nature Walk in Cocoa Culture Spring

My cocoa journey starts with an one-hour nature walk in the rainforest of Cocoa Culture Spring. Though it’s a hot day, the air in this forested area is so cooling and refreshing. The plantation of Cocoa Village is near to Quoin Hill, an extinct volcano that produced the fertile soil that nurtures the cocoa trees as well as the jungle here.

Taking a nature walk in Cocoa Culture Spring. The green environment is good for our eyes too.

There are six waterfalls in Cocoa Culture Spring that work like giant air ionizers and conditioners that cleanse the air. Most of the trail is paved and easy to walk on. This reminds me of Japan, a well-developed country that coexists well with beautiful nature. Japanese is educated to appreciate nature since young, something we should learn from them.

The walk in cocoa culture spring ends at the tallest waterfall

The 75-feet Majesty Waterfall in Cocoa Culture Spring

The highlight is the columnar basalt on the river. These neatly arranged rocks are formed 27,000 years ago from lava flow that is cooled down rapidly by water. It’s a great spot for photo-taking but we didn’t stay long because there were many sandflies. Finally we ended the nature walk at the 75-foot-tall Majesty Waterfall.

Basalt columnar in Cocoa Culture Spring of Teck Guan Cocoa Village. In Malaysia, such volcanism wonder is only found in Tawau.

The basalt columnar in cocoa village was formed 27,000 years ago when hot lava was cooled down rapidly by water.

2) Learning about Cocoa

After the nature walk, I’m transferred to the cocoa nursery to learn more about the cocoa cultivation and processing. Our cocoa materials are used by famous brands such as Godiva and M&M to make chocolate.

Left: cocoa fruits with different grades and yield. Right: cocoa beans ready for fermentation

Uncle Mando shows me the variety of cocoa fruits being planted. Most plantations grow at least 6 distinct varietals, each with different grades, yield and resistance to pests. This approach minimizes the risk of cocoa plants being completely decimated by single enemy such as cocoa pod borer and vascular streak dieback. Cocoa is a profitable crop that requires great care, and it’s one of the best fruits to plant in an integrated farmland.

Left: Uncle Mando showing the cultivation and processing of cocoa. Right: cocoa pod (fruit) and its beans are white

I also savour the taste of freshly harvested cocoa pod. The pulp is thin, with sweet and sour taste like mango. After removing the pulp, the cocoa beans are fermented and dried to make cocoa butter and cocoa powder. A pound of chocolate is made from 400 cocoa beans. Each cocoa tree produces an average of 2,500 cacao beans per year.

Diagram on processing of cocoa to chocolate

Nine women can’t produce a baby in a month. Then Uncle Mando demonstrates the grafting technique that can make a 3-month-old cocoa seedling starts fruiting in only 2.5 years, which is normally takes 4 to 5 years if grows normally. Besides, these bud-grafted clonal trees are more productive and resistant to disease. That’s the power of science.

3) Enjoy Cocoa Meal and Chocolate Drink

Time flies when I’m having fun. It’s about noon time and the cocoa aroma makes me hungry, so I move to Tawau Cocoa Cafe to enjoy a tasty cocoa lunch that is included in the tour package. This cafe serves many cocoa-inspired dishes, desserts and drinks, as well as nasi kuning (yellow rice) and some western finger food.

Cocoa lunch with chicken katsu and organic cocoa noodle

I have cocoa noodle with chicken katsu (Japanese-style fried chicken cutlet coated with crispy panko) as main dish, cocoa waffle and chocolate ice-cream as desserts, and ice old cocoa drink. I’m quite full after lunch. Otherwise, I would try their cocoa pudding jelly and ice-blended chocolate coffee.

The lawn area at Cocoa Village for photo taking and other family activities

Their cocoa drink is a richer and heathier version of Milo (favourite cocoa drink of Malaysians). Tawau Cocoa Cafe has special cocoa dishes occasionally, you can follow their Facebook at tawaucocoa for the latest cocoa cuisines.

4) Family Time with Children

Next to Tawau Cocoa Cafe is a beautiful lawn and nice garden for your family to explore. Parents can sit at the benches watching their kids running on the lawn, taking family photos at the playground, explore the tree house, and even try the zipline (fee applies) between Durian and Menggaris tree.

Left: the lawn area of Cocoa Village. Right: tree house

5) Shopping for Local Cocoa Products

The last stop of the tour is to see a myriad of Sabah cocoa and chocolate products in their shop, for example, cocoa powder, spread, coffee, noodle, cookies and chocolates. Sabahans should be proud of their cocoa products besides Sabah Tea and Tenom Coffee.

Some cocoa products and souvenirs of Cocoa Village

Some of the items are nicely packaged and hard to find in Kota Kinabalu City so don’t leave empty-handed. I bought some Tawau white coffee to give to my friends. Their handmade chocolate is also one of the best buy.

Booking a Tour to Cocoa Village

The following is the price of the cocoa village tour package (year 2023):
Adult @ RM80, Child (Age 6-12) @ RM60, Child (Age 3-5) @ RM40
Infant (Age 0-2) @ Free of charge (no meals provided)
Note: A minimum of four (4) adults is required

Layout map of Teck Guan Cocoa Village, a cocoa theme park

Itinerary

10:00 Meet at gathering point (Elaeis Hall)
10:05 Depart to Cocoa Culture Spring
10:20 Briefing at Cocoa Cultural Spring
10:35 Jungle Trekking start
11:35 Return to Cocoa Nursery
11:40 Cocoa Grafting Demonstration & Real Cocoa Fruits Tasting
12:30 Lunch at Tawau Cocoa Café
14:00 Shopping time
14:30 Get a takeaway gift from Cocoa Village
15:00 Tour end

Site map of Cocoa Culture Spring, the forest and waterfall garden of Cocoa Village

Package Inclusions

Learn about cocoa cultivation chain through practical demonstration
Opportunity to taste the real Cocoa fruits
Waterfall trekking at Teck Guan Cocoa Culture Spring
Witness the historic columnar-jointing basalt
Entrance ticket to Teck Guan Cocoa Village
One (1) takeaway gift from Cocoa Village
One (1) lunch at Tawau Cocoa Café

Zipline + Abseil Adventure @ RM30/pax (subject to availability)

Cocoa Village is a family-friendly destination in Tawau that both adults and children enjoy.

For booking and enquiry, you can contact Teck Guan Cocoa Village at:
Phone: +60 16-8269579 (Whatsapp), +60 89 772277 (office)
E-mail: cocoavillage@teckguan.com
Facebook: cocoavillagetawau
Address (Cocoa Village): Quoin Hill, Miles 15, Jalan Bukit Quoin, 91000 Tawau, Sabah, Malaysia.

Teck Guan Cocoa Village is about 45 minutes (38 Kilometre) away from Tawau town by driving and highly accessible by asphalt road in good condition (see Location Map). You may visit Cocoa Museum in Tawau town if you are interested in the manufacturing of cocoa powder and cocoa butter at their factory.

Photos taken in Tawau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Seafood Noodles of Sabah

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First time to Sabah and don’t know what to eat? Most travel guides would recommend famous Sabah cuisines such as Tuaran fried noodle, Ngiu Chap (mixed beef noodle) and Sang Yuk Mee (mixed pork noodle) but leave out fish noodle. Sabah is renowned for its seafood and its seafood noodle is probably one of the best in Malaysia.

Popular seafood noodle shops always use fresh seafood from the warm sea for the fish soup. Cold water fishes such as cod and pollock have strong fishy flavors because they are high in fat, so they are too oily and fishy for making noodle soup.

Reef fishes from the warm tropical ocean are the most delicious seafood in the world, and they are the preferred fishes in seafood noodles of Sabah. Depend on the restaurants, groupers, wrasse, snapper, amberjack (ikan tofu) and other seafood would be used. Though seafood noodles are more expensive than other noodles, you won’t get a 4-digit bill amount for having seafood noodle.

You can enjoy seafood at (left) Kopitiam or Kedai Kopi (cafe), and seafood restaurant (right) in Sabah.

There are variety of serving styles for seafood noodles in Sabah. I list the popular seafood noodles below, as well as the recommended Kedai Kopi (coffee shop). Most of them are served by Chinese shops so I post their Chinese names too, easier for Chinese readers.

1) Mixed Fish Noodle (鱼杂)

Mixed Fish Noodle is the favourite seafood noodle of Sabah people, to enjoy different parts and serving styles of fish. For first timers, fresh or fried fillets, fish cake, fish chunks and fish ball are good start. Some foodies would go for the fishy parts such as fish head, fish skin and fish maw. For noodles, you can choose between the mee hoon (rice vermicelli) and yellow noodle (and kuey teow flat noodle). You may have your noodle served in broth or a separate bowl. For broth, you can pick the savoury and sour tomato soup, or the spicy and milky tom-yam soup (or hamcoi, salty vegetable in soup).

Mixed fish noodles in Tom-yam soup and tomato soup at Kedai Kopi How Kee (好记茶室)

I prefer vermicelli in soup because the thin noodle absorbs the rich seafood flavours well. By Malaysian standard, our tom-yam soup is not really hot. I had an American friend who insisted on trying tom-yam and his whole face turned red and sweaty, but he still liked it.

Fatt Kee Seafood Restaurant Hilltop (发记鱼杂专卖店)

Location (View Map): Lot 8, Ground Floor (Hilltop), 1-0-1, Kolam Centre Phase 3, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah
Facebook: fattkeeseafoodrestaurant
Instagram: fattkee_hilltop88
Phone: +60 16-8104884
E-mail: fattkeelintas@gmail.com

Kedai Kopi How Kee (好记茶室)

Location (View Map): Lot 16, Jalan Bundusan, Beverly Hills Plaza, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah
Phone: +60 88-416858

Mixed fish noodle is one of the must-try food of Sabah. Don’t touch the noodle or she will bite you.

Notung Kusan Cafe

Location (View Map): Kepayan (second junction after RTM), Kota Kinabalu, Sabah
Phone: +60 13-8781918

Kuo Man Restaurant (国民茶室)

Location (View Map): 5, Jalan Tuaran, Sunny Garden, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah
Facebook (unofficial): Kuo-Man-Restaurant
Phone: +60 17-8111428

Kedai Kopi Wan Wan (旺旺茶室)

Location (View Map): Apartment Penampang Phase 1, Lot 24, HSK Industrial Centre, Jalan Bundusan, Kota Kinabalu
Facebook: Kedai Kopi Wan Wan 旺旺茶室
Phone: +60 88-716698
E-mail: wanwankopi@gmail.com

Mr. Fish Restaurant (鱼先生)

Location (View Map): Ground Floor Lot 13-0, Block C, Jalan Papar Baru, Kem Lok Kawi, Kota Kinabalu
Facebook: Mr.FishSabah
Phone: +60 16-8794300
E-mail: mrfishsabah@gmail.com

Kedai Kopi Tien Hwa (天华茶室)

Location (View Map): Jalan Milimewa Lama, Keningau, Sabah

2) Giant Grouper Noodle

Giant grouper is the king of grouper (known as Ikan Keratang in Malay, 龙趸 in Chinese). It can grow to a massive size of nearly 200 Kg, which spooks the scuba divers sometimes. Huge giant grouper is a highly sought-after seafood here. The flesh of giant grouper is firm and its head is packed with collagen. For gourmet seafood lovers, it’s the ultimate delicacy.

Giant grouper in a fish farm. The wild one can reach nearly 200 Kg in weight.

Sabah Keratang Sadong Jaya (沙巴龙趸专卖店)

Location (View Map): Block J, Sadong Jaya, 74, Lorong Karamunsing, Karamunsing, Kota Kinabalu
Facebook: SabahKeratangSadongJaya
Instagram: sabah.keratang
Phone: +60 14-3349986
E-mail: sabahkeratang@gmail.com

The fish head of giant grouper is rich in collagen

Kedai Makan Gembira (大家乐茶餐室)

Location (View Map): Lorong 4, Bandar Sri Perdana, Lahad Datu
Facebook: kedaimakangembira
Phone: +60 16-8314671

3) Crispy Noodle (海鲜香底米粉)

You won’t forget the mouthfeel of eating the fried crispy noodle mixed with juicy seafood gravy. The aromatic noodle sucks the rich seafood flavours and you can’t stop once you start. The big prawns and squid look so good, but the most important thing is they are fresh.

Empire Seafood Restaurant (傅贵林门海鲜餐厅)

Location (View Map): Block CC,Lot 174,Lorong Avenue 5,Bandar Utama., Sandakan, Malaysia
Facebook: empireseafoodrestaurant
Phone: +60 89-278359

Left: crispy seafood noodle, Right: seafood noodle with lihing (local wine)

4) Other Seafood Noodles

The following are more seafood noodles of Sabah for your tastebuds to explore.

a) Fish Paste Noodle

The noodle itself is made of fish paste. 100% fish noodle baby.

Kedai Kopi Makan Kong Teck (康德小食馆)

Location (View Map): Jalan Airport, Sandakan, Malaysia
Facebook: 康德小食馆－Restaurant Kong Teck
Phone: +60 16-8197396

Tom-yam soup (left) and dry (right) styles of fish paste noodles

b) Tomyam Seafood Noodle

You love big prawns served in spicy and creamy broth? I thank God every time I have this.

Seng Hing Restaurant (成兴茶餐室)

Location (View Map): Block G, Lot 10, Lorong Sinsuran 2, Sinsuran Kompleks, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah
Facebook: Seng-Hing-restaurant
Phone: +60 19-8105255, +60 88-211594

Spicy tom-yam seafood noodle soup. The Sabah-style tom-yam soup is milky while the real Thailand tom-yam is clear soup.

Gaya Fish Noodle (加雅鱼面馆)

Location (View Map): Lot 129, Ground Floor Gaya Street, Kota Kinabalu
Facebook: Gaya Fish Noodle 加雅鱼面馆

c) Spring Noodle (弹弓面)

Spring noodle is a Chinese-style yellow noodle that is named for its dense and chewy texture. This noodle from Sandakan goes well with seafood broth.

Spring noodle of Sandakan with seafood broth

Kampung Pukat Fishboat Street Sandakan (渔船街)

Location (View Map): Lorong 5, Kampung Pukat, Tanah Merah, Jalan Leila, Bandar Nam Tung, Sandakan
Phone: +60 89-616510

Note: Though most, if not all the Chinese shops listed here don’t serve pork, they are not certified as Halal. Some Muslims feel ok to dine there, while some don’t, so decide at your own discretion.

Sandakan is a famous place for seafood feast. Left: a shop that sells seafood noodle. Right: Fishboat Street Sandakan (渔船街) at Kampung Pukat of Sandakan

Some of the shops accept online orders by Foodpanda or Grab Food, so you can avoid the long queue and have these seafood noodles delivered to your doorstep. Just a heads up, the seafood noodles by reputable shops are very likely sold out in the morning.

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Beaufort Mee (Beaufort Fried Noodle)

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Industrialization enables mass-production but it sacrifices the food quality. Luckily, some still hold the belief that human food is better made by human rather than factory machinery. That’s why food lovers really appreciate the handmade noodles from a few Sabah towns, for example, Tuaran Mee, Tamparuli Mee and Beaufort Mee (Mee means Noodle).

Beaufort Mee (Beaufort Fried Noodle, “保佛面” in Chinese) tastes really good though it’s less famous, so it deserves to be featured here.

Restoran Beaufort (保佛饭店)

Beaufort Mee is originated from Beaufort, a town nearly 100 KM from Kota Kinabalu (KK). Fortunately, you can find one of the best Beaufort Mee in KK. Restoran Beaufort (保佛饭店) is only 6 KM from KK and very popular for its Beaufort Mee (see Location Map).

Normally Beaufort Mee is best served hot in “wet fried” style and covered in thick gravy, with green vegetable and pork (usually meat slices and roasted pork slices). The noodle is soft and “juicy”, but not oily. Yes, it does taste better than ordinary noodle. The pork is smooth, sweet and tender.

You may notice that they put a lot of vegetable, so green that it might look less appetizing to carnivorous food lovers like me. But I must tell you that this vegetable is the “secret weapon” of Restoran Beaufort. It’s Chinese Mustard or Choy-Sim (菜心 in Chinese, Sawi Manis in Malay), the most commonly used vegetable for any type of noodles in Sabah.

However, they are using organic vegetable and it makes a big difference. It is fresh, sweet and crunchy! The owner told me that they appoint farmer to plan organic vegetable for them and it costs almost twice as expensive than the organic veg from Ranau.

Other restaurants in Kota Kinabalu City that serve good Beaufort Mee are New Foh Chuan (保佛新伙船) and KK Beaufort Restaurant.

Kedai Makan dan Minum Foh Chuan (老伙船面粥小馆)

Ok, you don’t mind driving 1.5 hours to Beaufort to try Beaufort Mee. You can ask any local in Beaufort, all of them will recommend Foh Chuan Restaurant (see Location Map).

Foh Chuan is just next to a mosque in Beaufort. The owner is Ah Hiong (阿雄) and Foh Chuan is the name of his father. His mobile phone number is +60 12 8392600 if you want more info.

Beaufort Mee Goreng Basah (Wet Fried Beaufort Noodle)

Foh Chuan is open daily (Mon-Sat: 7am-2:30pm, Sun: 7am-1pm). The shop closes earlier so they can make Beaufort Mee in the afternoon. I strongly advise you to visit this restaurant in early morning because their handmade Beaufort Mee is sold out fast. They only have factory-made noodle for latecomers, sad if you drive 1.5 hours for real Beaufort Mee. Sunday is not a good day too as they prepare less items that day.

Konlon Beaufort Mee (Dry Beaufort Noodle)

Besides Beaufort Mee, Foh Chuan serves other delicious food too, like the Fried Rice Noodle (see photo below). They purposely burn the roasted pork slices (焦叉烧 in Chinese) a bit so it tastes sweeter with stronger BBQ flavor.

Left: Fried mihun with slightly burnt cha-sao (Char siu). Right: Beef soup is great to go with your noodle

Food menu of Kedai Makan dan Minum Foh Chuan (prices as of Jan 2024)

You may check out other two Sabah noodles below:
Tuaran Mee (Tuaran Noodle) the golden noodle of Sabah
Tamparuli Mee (Tamparuli Fried Noodle)

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Traditional Food of Papar

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Papar is a quiet and peaceful town about 38 Kilometres away from Kota Kinabalu City. The locals in Papar are mainly Kadazan Papar and Orang Brunei people who make some special delicacies.

1. Tapai Papar

From the name, you would think that it is the famous rice wine of Sabah. “Tapai Papar” cake is made by Orang Brunei lives in Laut Village of Papar.

Definitely it does not look like Tapai wine, but it really smells and tastes like Tapai, and really sweet too. They said they mixed the yeast with the cooked rice, then left it overnight, to produce the sweet taste and Tapai scent. Interesting huh..

2. Lauk Pais

I also tried their BBQ Fish, named Lauk Pais, which is Basung or Pinaasakan fish wrapped and grilled in leaves.

The fishes were fresh and sweet, and tasted a bit spicy. Yum, yum…

Lauk Pais, grilled basung fish wrapped in leave

3. Pinompol, the Papar Pizza

The main ingredient of Pinompol is desiccated coconut, which is fried and mixed with sago powder and sugar. It’s cooked until golden brown to release the pleasing coconut aroma. No oil is added. You can watch the video on how Pinompol is made. The taste is sweet and soft with crusty surface.

Pinompol is one of the traditional food that is not commonly appreciated by the young generations, so not many people know about it.

Pinompol goes well with hot coffee. You can add honey, cheese, mayonnaise or sliced bananas for extra flavours. This snack is homemade for self-consumption and not commonly sold in market. You can get Pinompol at Koposizon Homestay Papar.

4. Kuih Lidah

Kiuh Lidah, literally means Tongue Cake, is a traditional sweet snack of Bruneian Malay in Papar, the southeast part of Sabah, Malaysia. Also known as Kuih Tiram (Oyster Cake), Kuih Lidah is one of the best selling snacks of Sabah and getting popular throughout Malaysia.

Kuih Lidah with coated sugar and milk powder, is paired well with hot tea or coffee

5. Kuih Sayur

Kuih Sayur is a popular savory pastry from Papar. Not many outsiders know about it, as this delicious treat is always sold out. Due to its shape, it is called ‘wheel pastry’ (车轮饼) or ‘little fried jicama’ (炸葛仔) by the Chinese, and some also refer to it as ‘Tin Can Pastry’ (罐头饼).

Kuih Sayur is made from flour fried to an appetizing brown color with a crunchy crust, and it is filled with soft, grated jicama inside, which tastes similar to Ham Sui Gok (咸水角), another famous pastry.

Madam Teo and her family have been selling Kuih Sayur for about 70 years, and the recipe comes from her grandmother who hailed from Yongchun County (永春县) of China. Kuih Sayur is priced at RM1.20 each. Madam Teo’s stall in Papar Central Market (Pasar Am Papar) also sells a variety of other kuih and pastries every day from 6am to 11am, except Mondays.

6. Surabai

Surabai looks like a steamed rice pancake. Anyone can tell me more?

Tamu, the traditional market of Sabah

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If you want to travel smart in Sabah, do not miss Tamu, the weekly (sometimes twice or thrice weekly) open-air native market in outskirts of Sabah. It’ll feel like a food and treasure hunting tour.

The beautiful tamu market of Tenom town. It’s just behind the central market in town centre.

The name tamu derives from the Malay word bertemu which means ‘to meet’ and it has been a place of congregation for farmers, fishermen, craftsman and traders for over 145 years. In old days there was no supermarket, so every districts held a weekly tamu for local villagers to meet, shop, and trade their produces at a designated location.

The colourful tamu of Sabah. Tamu are called differently by different ethnic groups in Sabah. The Dusun and Rungus people call it “Badi” while it is known as “Semio” by the Bajau people in Kota Belud. In the Tuaran district, it’s also called “Buul” for smaller native markets.

History of Tamu

The first tamu of Sabah was started on 13 December 1878 in Kota Belud (Kampung Siasai) by William Pretyman, a political agent of British North Borneo (now Sabah). In his diary, William said the locals from different tribes were so excited to see the first tamu ground in preparation and kept on asking him the opening day of tamu. It’s a huge success as each ethnic group can offer certain goods that others don’t have. For example, a Dusun farmer can sell rice to a Bajau fisherman who would buy or barter trade it with fishes. Merchants from China and Brunei and also sourced many local products from tamu.

Left: the white man is William Pretyman. Look like a smart dude. Right: a photo of Kota Belud in 1940, taken by W.K.C. Wookey (courtesy of The Sabah State Archives). Both photos are from the Facebook of North Borneo Philately

The same goes to fruits & vegetables, traditional herbs, seafood, livestock, bushmeat, beeswax, textile, crafts and wide array of other produces, some carried by villagers walking over 10 KM to the marketplace. British rulers were also happy that different tribes could do business peacefully at tamu though tribal conflicts were common during that time. Brawls and weapons are prohibited in tamu. British officers also used tamu as a place to distribute news. Locals people from different villages mingled and exchanged news at tamu too. Though British had left Sabah in 1963, tamu is still an integral part of rural economy.

Past (1970s) Vs Present Tamu of Kota Belud

Why Tamu is Fun for Tourists

What’s the point of visiting a new place if you don’t experience any cultural shock? Your travel agents always “protect” you from something that you aren’t accustomed to. For example, if you are a European, they will never serve you durian fruit. If you are a Korean tourist, they will make sure that your plate always has Kimchi. You don’t eat and live like a Sabahan.

Tourists shopping at tamu of Keningau (left) and Papar (right) towns

A tamu provides an authentic encounter with the rich cultural, culinary and traditional aspects of the lives of Sabah’s many ethnic groups. The best ways to enjoy a tamu tour are:

Explore some interesting or “weird” items. Feel the sights, sounds and smells of tamu.
Sample local snacks, pastries, cakes, fruits, food and drink.
Interact with the local people. Observe what they do, e.g. chewing betel nuts and carrying stuffs in traditional baskets
Shop for souvenirs, handicrafts, tapestry, trinklets and other handmade crafts.

Vendors of the tamu of Papar, Keningau and Bongawan. The locals could be a bit shy but they are friendly people.

The bonus is you could get something cheaper than normal retail prices, if you are good at haggling. You are helping the small sellers too, like an elder villager or a start-up baker who needs extra income to support their families.

What to Buy

Every tamu are selling different things, based on the composition of local ethnic groups, agriculture and cultures. For example, Kundasang tamu is popular for highland vegetables, and Keningau tamu is the best place to buy hill paddy and cinnamon.

Things to buy or try at tamu. 1. Tarap fruit (seasonal), 2. Chicken tail satay, 3. Salted fishes, 4. Penjaram cake, 5. Latok seaweed (or sea grapes), 6. Fried banana fritters with cheese (pisang goreng cheese)

The following are some good (safe) starters for first-time visitors (Note: some fruits are seasonal):

Cakes and Snacks: pinjaram (UFO cake), pillow crackers, kuih cincin (ring cookie), amplang, kuih jala
Food: satay buntut (chicken tail satay), pisang goreng cheese (cheesy fried banana fritters), Latok (seaweed), nasi kuning (yellow turmeric rice)
Drink: kit chai ping (calamansi juice), air bandung (rose syrup), coconut juice, lihing rice wine
Fruits: tarap, cempedak, pisang emas (golden banana), bread fruit
Others: stingless bee honey, salted seafood (e.g. anchovy, shrimps, ikan liking), parang (machete), T-shirt, handicrafts, hill paddy

From left to right: Butod (sago grubs), Sabah durians (seasonal), Bambangan pickles, Bosou (fermented fishes)

For bold travellers who want some acquired taste, here is a list for your gastronomic adventure:

Butod (sago grub, can be eaten alive)
Tuhau (pickled wild ginger)
Bambangan (preserved wild mango)
Wild durian
Noonsom or Bosou (tangy fermented fish or meat)

Expect to see something unexpected at tamu of Sabah, for examples, 1. Fishes fermented by grounded pangi seeds (look dirty but very delicious actually), 2. Bush meat, 3. Giant toad purse, 4. Magic rocks? 5. Weaver bird nests, 6. Various wood and herbs

Tamu sells mainly locally-grown fruits & vegetables, meat and poultry, fresh and dried seafood, food and snacks, but you still can find almost everything at tamu such as herbs, tobacco rolls, toy, shoes, clothing, flowers, pet, electronics, gadgets, tool kits, kitchenware, jewelry, accessories and imported goods. When there was almost no restriction in the past, I could even find protected wildlife (e.g. slow loris, pangolin, turtle eggs) for sale at tamu.

Best Tamu to Visit

No two tamu are the same. Every tamu is unique and has its own charm. If I must recommend one or two tamu, I will go for tamu of Kota Belud and Donggongon town. I also had a wonderful time at the tamu of Tenom, Tuaran and Keningau.

Tamu of Kota Belud (left) and Donggongon (right)

Kota Belud Tamu is the mother of all tamu. Most of the sellers there are Bajau people, the Cowboys of the East, and they are very skillful in making yummy snacks and colourful handicrafts. Walking around the Kota Belud tamu, you would notice the vibrant colours tudung duang, a popular handicraft made of dried screwpine leaves and used as a food cover. The Bajau is also well-known for making of intricately designed parang (machete).

The best time to visit Kota Belud tamu is during Tamu Besar Kota Belud, an annual cultural carnival in October, with an exciting line-up of activities such as dance performances, cultural shows, traditional games, buffalo races and horse-riding parade.

Tudung duang (left) and machetes (right) made by Bajau people

Only 8.5 KM away from Kota Kinabalu City, Donggongon is an important town of Kadazandusun, the largest indigenous people of Sabah. Donggongon Tamu takes place every Thursday and Friday (6am-6pm). The Donggongon Tamu offers a myriad of merchandises, ranging from local delicacies and handicrafts to fresh vegetable produce and livestock. Both villagers and city people love to shop here, turning this marketplace to a bustling trade and cultural hub that is unique to the Penampang district.

Tamu of Donggongon is open from 6am to 6pm every Thursday and Friday. Actually the market has started in the evening of Wednesday.

Gaya Street Sunday Market in the city centre of Kota Kinabalu is also the favourite open-air market of tourists. Technically, it is not a true tamu. Instead of selling raw vegetables and meat, the vendors sell mostly finished products that target at tourists and city folks. Anyway, it’s worth checking out.

Photo of Penampang tamu taken by G. C. Woolley more than a hundred years ago

Tamu ground of larger towns have overhead roof, sheltered stalls and cement floor, so you don’t need to shop under the hot sun or walk on the mud after rain. For other tamu, all the traders need are just a parasol or a shade under big tree, and a ground or pavement to lay their items. Some tourists may enjoy the feeling of such a rustic tamu.

Opening Days of Tamu

Sabah has over 40 tamu in different towns and districts today. Most tamu open as early as 6am and close by 12pm. Different districts has different tamu days, here’s the list of their opening days (some open more than once a week).

Tamu of Tuaran (left) and Sikuati (right)

Day	Tamu
Monday	Kampung Pukak Kiulu
Tuesday	Kiulu, Kuala Penyu, Pandasan, Tamparuli
Wednesday	Kota Belud, Kudat, Membakut (old township), Nabawan, Ranau, Tamparuli
Thursday	Bingkor (Keningau), Dongongon (6am-6pm), Nabalu, Papar, Sipitang, Sumangkap (Matunggong), Taginambur, Tambunan, Telipok, Tenghilan
Friday	Beaufort, Dongongon (6am-6pm), Kundasang, Sapulot / Sepulut, Teginambur Batu 10
Saturday	Apin-Apin (Keningau), Beaufort, Inanam, Kinarut, Mansiat Sook, Matunggong, Nabawan, Papar, Putatan, Ranau, Telupid
Sunday	Keningau, Kota Belud, Kota Kinabalu (Gaya Street), Kota Marudu, Membakut (new township), Papar, Putatan, Sook, Tambunan, Telupid, Tuaran

Opening days of tamu in Sabah

Tamu of Keningau (left) and Bongawan (right)

Just a trivia for those who are interested in local history. If you look around tamu ground, you would find a medium or big old rock that symbolizes the “contract” among tribes to guarantee honesty, fairness and trust, and to punish those who cheat, quarrel or swear within tamu market.

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Mee Sup Kota Belud, the Noodle Soup from the Cowboy Town of Sabah

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Good food doesn’t need any advertising because by words of mouth, eventually everyone will come for it. Mee Sup Kota Belud (or Mee Sup KB in short) is one of them. I had first taste of this delicious noodle soup in Kota Belud town more than 10 years ago, in a food stall behind the Bangunan Usia building. Only the local folks know this “hidden” corner. Now Mee Sup KB is well-known and even available in some cities of Peninsular Malaysia.

Mee Sup Kota Belud is the iconic noodle of Kota Belud

Mee Sup Kota Belud literally means Kota Belud Noodle Soup, which is named after Kota Belud, a small town about 60 Kilometres away from Kota Kinabalu City (KK). Mee Sup Kota Belud is like the noodle soup version of the famous Hainanese Chicken Rice, which allows you to taste the flavour of chicken fully.

Mee Sup Kota Belud (Kota Belud Noodle Soup) with egg, chicken feet and meatballs

There are four things that make Mee Sup Kota Belud so mouth-watering: 1) savoury chicken soup, 2) aromatic fried shallot, 3) tender chicken meat, and 4) noodle that absorbs all the goodness in soup. It tastes the best when fresh drumstick and vegetables are used.

Mee Sup Kota Belud with Cha-Shao (barbecued pork) slices, chicken meat and chicken heart

Mee Sup Kota Belud is quite simple to prepare. The most important part is the chicken soup. Chicken meat is boiled in hot water first. Then ginger, pepper, lemongrass, garlic, chicken stock / bouillon cubes and a bit of MSG would be added to the soup to enrich the flavours. Lastly, hot soup is poured on the noodle and chicken meat, with some fried shallot on top as a finishing touch.

Mee Sup Kota Belud of *konlou* (dry) type (without soup)

The classic Mee Sup Kota Belud, which is served with yellow noodle and chicken pieces in soup is the style I love. Some shops add cha-shao, meatballs, boiled egg, chicken feet, chicken heart, or green vegetable leaf to create a more fancy dish. You also can order Kota Belud Noodle Soup in konlou (dry) or mee hon (rice noodle) style.

Mee Sup Kota Belud (*mee hoon* or rice noodle type)

Adding a bit of calamansi lime juice (limau kasturi), coriander, or chili sauce can spice up your noodle soup too.

Best Mee Sup Kota Belud

The following are the recommended shops for Mee Sup KB, based on public reviews and rating.

1. Kota Belud Town

You can have the authentic Mee Sup KB in a few places of Kota Belud, for examples, the food stalls at Bazar Rakyat Kota Belud (Location Map) and Sunday Tamu Market (Location Map).

Left: one of the food stalls at Bazar Rakyat Kota Belud. Right: menu and price list of noodles

2. Mee Sup KB Ah Thong

Facebook: Mee Sup KB Ah Thong
Phone: +60 12-8239063
Location: 5.909942850793467, 116.1018139753375 (Donggongon, Penampang)

3. MG Corner Restaurant

Facebook: MG-Corner-Restaurant
Phone: +60 16-8366020
Location: 6.137608979075816, 116.27024009807108 (Tamparuli)

4. Real Mee Sup KB

Facebook: @realmeesupkb
Phone: +60 17-816 7428
Location: 5.986795024067851, 116.13059859807107 (Inanam Capital, Inanam)

Some of them may serve pork, so Muslim please check if it’s halal before ordering.

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Tuaran Mee (Tuaran Noodle) the gold noodle of Sabah

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If you ask Sabah people which delicacies are “Made in Sabah”, no doubt Tuaran Noodle (locally known as Tuaran Mee, 斗亚兰面 in Chinese), a traditional handmade egg noodle born in Tuaran town is on top of the list. Like Laksa to Penang, Kolo Mee to Sarawak, Tuaran Mee is the noodle representing Sabah state.

Tuaran Fried Noodle with slices of spring roll and cha-shao

Above is the picture of Tuaran Fried Noodle (Tuaran Mee Goreng). Tuaran Mee tastes best when it is fried and served hot with egg roll slices (春卷 in Chinese), roasted pork slices (or Cha-Shao, 叉烧 in Chinese) and local green vegetable. This golden-color noodle is rich with egg aroma. If prepared nicely, the noodle is crispy outside but soft inside.

Tuaran Mee can be cooked in different styles. Left: “Wet-fried” Tuaran Mee with gravy (湿炒). Right: Kon-Lau (Dry) Tuaran Mee (干捞)

When the food market nowadays is flooded with cheap and mediocre packed noodles, I do appreciate every bite of Tuaran Mee, which is created by people who insist on quality over quantity. Tuaran Mee is pure noodle, unlike those factory noodles consist of preservatives.

Tuaran fried noodle (Tuaran Mee Goreng) is over-fried a bit to make the noodle more crispy and springy

The repeated pounding in handmade process forms denser texture in the noodle. You will be surprised that Tuaran Mee can be stomach-filling even taken in small quantity.

Tuaran Mee served in different styles. The girl in the picture is Yuri Ishizeki, a Japanese Food Fighter. You can watch the video to see how she finished all the Tuaran Mee on the desk.

Besides fried noodle, Dried or “Konlau” (干捞 in Chinese) Tuaran Noodle (see photo above) is another popular way to enjoy Tuaran Mee. The cook first rinses the noodle in boiled soup until it turns soft, dry it and serve it in dark sauce. Personally I prefer the fried version.

Where to find the BEST Tuaran Mee?

Tuaran Mee costs about RM8 to RM10 (≈USD1.90 to USD2.30) a plate, and seafood flavours (with shrimps) is more expensive (RM12 or more). Based on the feedback, the No.1 favorite of locals is Tuaran Mee Restoran coffee shop in Tuaran town (see Location Map).

1. Tuaran Mee Restoran

Tel: +60 16-5849651
Opening Hours: 7am-2:30pm (closed every Monday)

Tuaran Mee Restoran in Tuaran. They also have a branch in Inanam

Tuaran Mee Restoran is named after Tuaran Mee, so you can assume that they are specialised in this noodle. This is evidenced by number of customers they have in shop. They must be doing very well because they also open a branch in Inanam (see Location Map).

Tuaran Fried Noodle of Tuaran Mee Restoran

2. Lok Kyun Restaurant (乐群酒家)

Ranked No.2 by locals are Restoran Lok Kyun, also located in Tuaran. It’s famous in Peninsular Malaysia because it was featured many times in TV such as Taste with Jason (阿贤), a popular food programme in AEC TV Channel.

Lok Kyun Restaurant (乐群酒家) is located in the middle of Tuaran town

Address: Shop No. 4, Block 8, Jalan Keogh, Tuaran, Sabah, Malaysia (see Location Map)
Tel: +60 88-788441 / +60 19-8518632
Opening Hours: Tue-Sun: 7am – 2:30pm (closed every Monday)
Though they also open in most public holiday, they close on major holidays such as Chinese New Year and Hari Raya.

Tuaran Mee by Lok Kyun Restaurant (乐群酒家)

Personally I love the ambience of having traditional food in an old kopitiam (coffee shop) in post-war wooden shoplot of Tuaran. They are not only good in Tuaran Mee. Their “Braised pork belly with taro” (芋头扣肉) and “Stuffed Beancurd” (酿豆腐) are also very famous.

3. Seng Hing Coffee Shop (成兴茶餐室)

Some of you may not want to drive 30 minutes to Tuaran town for the noodle. Luckily, you also can have Tuaran Mee in Kota Kinabalu city. One of the most recommended coffee shops for Tuaran Mee is Seng Hing Coffee Shop, which has over 40 years of history.

Seng Hing Coffee Shop (成兴茶餐室) is located in Sinsuran of Kota Kinabalu City Centre

Address: Block E, Lot 10, Sinsuran Complex, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia (see Location Map)
Tel: +60 88-211594 / +60 19-8105255
Opening Hours: 7am – 4pm daily

Tuaran Mee by Seng Hing Coffee Shop (成兴茶餐室)

This kopitiam fries their Tuaran Mee with a bit of Lihing (rice wine), which gives the noodle a very pleasing aroma. I used to have lunch there every day and they never disappoint me. Seng Hing Coffee Shop is also popular for its Tom Yam Seafood Noodle.

The food stalls in pasar (market) of Tuaran town also cook really good Tuaran Mee, which is always sold out in the morning

Please feel free to post your favorite restaurant in comment section here, if you know any other nice places for Tuaran Mee.

Photos taken in Tuaran, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo