Category Archives: Food

Stingless Bee (Kelulut) Farming in Sabah

Today I want to introduce some sweethearts to you. These little honey make money and healthy food for you. They are stingless bees (or meliponines), the honeybees that don’t sting. Stingless bee is known as Kelulut in Malaysia and Tantadan (local Dusun name) in Sabah. Belonging to the family Apida, kelulut is closely related to honey bees, and they are also the honey producer and important pollinators in tropical and subtropical regions.

There are about 38 species of stingless bee (*kelulut*) found in Malaysia, but not all are honey producers

Stingless bees are very common in Sabah. If you have a garden or orchard, there is a 80% chance that you could spot a kelulut hive nearby. Usually they build their nests in hollow trunks, wall cavities, and even crevices in your house wall. Stingless bees are always found busy harvesting nectar in the countryside. If you sweat a lot, some of them would land on your skin to collect salt.

Wax tunnels of wild stingless bees on a tree. When I was a naughty kid, I used to pinch to seal the waxen tunnel of their entrance for fun.

Stingless bees are only 1 centimetre or less in body length. Their tiny size allows them to access small flowers. Though they produce honey in small quantity, kelulut honey is more nutritious and highly priced. It is a trend that more and more Sabah village house farms kelulut, as the kelulut honey is in good demand and can generate hundred to thousands dollars of side income easily every month.

*Heterotrigona itama* species of stingless bee (kelulut) is all black in color and suitable (and common) for beekeeping

Honey Bee Vs Kelulut. Which Honey is Better?

Honey produced by stingless bees has many names such as Meliponine honey, pot honey, sugarbag honey (in Australia), and kelulut honey (in Malaysia). In Malaysia, kelulut honey is acclaimed as a honey healthier than normal honey. The following are some comparisons of both honey:

1. Taste

As you know, honeybee honey is sweet. Kelulut honey is sourish sweet. Usually sweetness is the base taste, and it mixes with varied degree of sourness, and even bitterness, which is greatly depend on the flowers or fruit trees visited by kelulut. Stingless bees store their honey in honey pots which are made of cerumen, produced from the bee’s saliva mixed with pollen, plant resins and flowers, and this chemically affects the taste. Sometimes its honey has slight fruit flavour or herbal aroma.

These stingless bees are *Geniotrigona thoracica* species. They make very delicious honey.

2. Nectar and Viscosity

Kelulut honey is thinner than honey due to higher water content and more prone to spoiling. Many native plant have small flowers that only Meliponine can access to collect the nectar. Kelulut honey is also not as “heaty” as normal honey.

3. Quantity

Honey bees produce about 5 or more times honey than kelulut. In average, a honey bee hive creates 2.25 to 3.75 Kg of honey per month, whereas kelulut is only 0.5 to 2 Kg per month.

Stingless bee (kelulut) honey is more expensive than honeybee honey. Some call Kelulut honey the “Miracle Liquid” because of its medicinal value.

4. Price

In most cases, a standard grade honey costs less than RM90 per Kilogram. Kelulut honey is sold for RM120 to RM150 per Kg locally.

5. Nutrients

According to the Malaysian Agricultural Research and Development Institute (MARDI), stingless bee honey is twice as nutritious as ordinary honey. In a Scientific Reports published on 22 July 2020, the researchers found that up to 85% of their sugar is trehalulose, which is a rare and healthy sugar that is “friendly” for diabetes and doesn’t cause tooth decay.

Row of kelulut bee houses. Each log hosts a colony. You can have a few to 100 bee houses in a bee farm

6. Health Benefits

The main selling point of kelulut honey is its stronger health values from anti-bacterial, anti-carcinogen and anti-oxidant properties. It has a history of traditional indigenous in treating cough, fever, cuts and rashes. Some of the claims are proven by research, just to list a few below:

Honey contains more anti-oxidant properties (able to delay the ageing process and preventing cancer) than honey bees, as reported by MARDI.
Stingless bee honeys have anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effect
Stingless bee honey is a natural wound healing agent
Stingless bee honey has excellent beneficial effects as anti-microbial, anti-cancer agent, improving hypertension, lipid profiles, and anti-diabetic

Locals believe having a tea spoon of kelulut honey twice a day can strengthen immune system, to prevent cold and flu.

Nest structure of kelulut. At the right are “honey pots” that store the honey

Beekeeping Method (Meliponiculture)

The rearing of stingless bee is known as meliponiculture. There are more than 38 species of stingless bees found in Malaysia, but only a few of them are suitable for beekeeping, for example, Heterotrigona itama and Geniotrigona thoracica are the most preferred species, followed by Lepidotrigona terminata and Tetragonula leviceps.

Kelulut bee farm is best built under shade with lot of flowers and fruit trees nearby. The bees can increase the yield of your crops too.

Generally kelulut is passive. To defend their home, they would attack invaders by biting, but it is more like ant bite and far less painful than honeybee sting. No bee protective suit is required for handling of kelulut. Stingless bees share similar food, behavior, and social structure with honey bees, so you can rear them like normal honey bees.

Stingless bee farm in Kota Belud (Pinolobu Village)

Beekeepers can house the kelulut colony in a bee house called Gelodok or transfer them to a wooden box. You can open the box periodically to harvest honey without doing too much damages to their nest. The old methods of using bamboos, flowerpots, or coconut shells as bee house would be less sustainable as beekeepers need to cut the container in half for collecting honey.

Stingless bee house with top cover makes honey harvesting easier and causes less damage to the nest

Commercial kelulut beekeeping is introduced in Malaysia in 2012. Now there are 750 to 1,000 bee farmers nationwide. Sarawak state produces the most kelulut honey, followed by Sabah and Peninsular Malaysia.

Close-up of stingless bees (kelulut) and their nest

Beescaping

Bee houses are placed in shade to avoid excessive heat. Stingless bees have short flight ranges of about 500 metres (honey bees is 2 km). Therefore, for higher honey yield, the bee farm should be nearby the favourable food source of stingless bees, the following are some preferred host plant:

Flowers: air mata pengantin or Honolulu Creeper (Antigonon leptopus), Buttercup (Turnera subulata)
Fruit trees: rambutan, starfruit, passion fruit, coconut, durian
Acacias, rubber and other flowering forest trees

(Note: the choice of plant can affect the taste and colors of the honey)

Small kelulut is vulnerable to attack and raid by bigger bees and hornets. A trick is to place some belacan (shrimp paste) near the bee hives to keep these predators away.

Got Honey, Got Money. A Profitable Business

Malaysia government has initiated the National Kelulut Honey Industry Development Plan 2020-2030 that aims to make the kelulut honey industry a new source of stable and sustainable income because kelulut beekeeping can generate good income quick without high capital and advanced skill as a start. You can get the kelulut nest from the wild or buy it from local open market (tamu). A new colony normally starts producing honey after three months.

Honolulu Creeper (Antigonon leptopus) flower is a good host plant for stingless bee farming

If you have RM1,500, you can start a small farm of three stingless bee colonies. Each kelulut nest produces about 0.33 to 2 Kg of honey monthly. In Sabah, beekeepers earn about RM60 per kg of kelulut honey, which is marketed for RM120 to RM140 per Kg in the shops after processing and packaging. You can build a bee farm of 50 to 1,000 bee colonies with a starting capital of between RM40,000 and RM50,000, that can bring you a monthly income of RM5,000 to RM30,000.

Gelodok bee house for Kelulut (stingless bees) at a village house

Currently, the total market volume of Malaysia’s kelulut honey industry is only RM33.6 million while the market potential is about RM67.2 million. According to data provided by the Agriculture Department in 2017, the total kelulut honey production in Malaysia stood at 134,244 kilograms. From what I heard, the demand for stingless bee honey is high and most go to local consumption. The needs for kelulut honey will grow when it becomes more popular.

Old-fashioned stingless bee houses in village

Besides, about 1,000 downstream products can be made from honey, propolis and pollen from kelulut nests. The ingredients can be used in health supplements, cosmetics, skincare, toothpaste, face cream, essential oil, hand cream, skin disorder ointments, lip salve, etc. These byproducts will increase the revenue generated from bee farms.

Box type of stingless bee houses (in Kiansom)

Training and Funding

Interested in starting a kelulut farm? The organisations below might be able to help you. Good luck!

Big entrance of stingless bee nest. Found in Gaya Island, off Kota Kinabalu city

1. Borneo Honeybee Centre

In Sabah, the State Agriculture Department and Koperasi Pembangunan Desa (KPD) provide advice and conduct courses for stingless bee farming. KPD opened the Borneo Honeybee Centre in Sikuati, Kudat (north of Sabah). The Borneo Honeybee Centre is a centre for collecting, processing and bottling of honey and also conducted the bees farming courses (for about RM350). This 8.5-acre complex has various facilities such as Honey Processing Factory, Bee Gallery, Honeybee Souvenir, Honeybee Café and guided tour for those who want to learn more about beekeeping.

Facebook: BORNEOHONEYBEECENTRE

Borneo Honeybee Centre in Kudat is a hub for collecting, processing and bottling of honey and also provides beekeeping courses

2. Akademi Kelulut Malaysia (AKM)

Located in Bangi, Selangor, this company provides beginner to advanced training on kelulut beekeeping and making of stingless bee products. They also publish some books on stingless bees.

Facebook: akademikelulutmalaysia
E-mail: akademikelulut@gmail.com
Phone: 011-1514 2620

Some courses by Akademi Kelulut Malaysia (AKM) on making of Kelulut products

3. Malaysian Agricultural Research and Development Institute (Mardi)

MARDI is a government agency established with the main objectives of generating and promoting new, appropriate and efficient technologies towards the advancement of the food, agriculture, food and agro-based industries.

Facebook: mardimalaysia
Website: mardi.gov.my
Twitter: mardimalaysia
Blog: blogmardi.wordpress.com

The potential market of kelulut honey is huge

4. Young Agropreneur Programme

Implemented by Ministry of Agriculture and Food Industries’ (MAFI) in 2016, the Young Agropreneur Programme aims to encourage the involvement of youths (18 – 40 years old) in entrepreneurial activities in the agricultural sector’s value chain. If you are eligible, you can apply funding at: mafi.gov.my.

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

UFO Tart of Sandakan

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If you visit Sandakan, just ask any local there, “Hi! I want to eat cow dung. Where to get one?” and they will recommend you to try Cow Dung Tart, the most famous dessert of Sandakan (or even Sabah). Cow Dung Tart is also known as UFO Tart because of its flying saucer shape. To sound more appetizing, the name UFO Tart is preferred on media.

UFO tart is made up of a biscuit base and with sweet custard and creamy meringue.

However, the local Chinese has been calling it Cow Dung Tart (牛屎挞) since day one and don’t want to change this, as they think the original name is cute and amusing. Personally I nickname UFO Tart as “Bull Shit Tart” lol.

Cow Dung Tart is also known as the UFO Tart because its shape resembles a flying saucer.

You can find UFO Tart easily in Sandakan. Many coffee shops (kopitiam), restaurants, even night market, are selling UFO tarts. Now you can buy this tart at a few shops in Kota Kinabalu City too.

Cow Dung Tart is a creation by accident. No cow (and UFO) is hurt in the process.

UFO Tart has a soft and butter-flavored cake base topped with sweet custard and fluffy meringue. You can gulp the whole tart in only two or three bites. For me, it tastes like an eggy cookie with rich aroma of vanilla. UFO Tart goes well with a cup of hot coffee. If you ask me, I enjoy UFO Tart more than egg tart.

UFO Tart (or Cow Dung Tart) is invented in 1955, the time Malaysia (and Borneo) was still ruled by the British. To some people, UFO tart is a taste of their childhood.

The born of UFO Tart is simply an accident happened over 60 years ago. No, it’s not a dessert introduced by the aliens from the outer space. In 1955, a Hainanese cake baker named Fu Ah On (符和安) was baking tarts as usual one day. While busy mingling, he over-baked his tarts. Surprisingly, the scorched tarts tasted good. Then he introduced this new tart and people loved it, hence it became a traditional cake unique to Sandakan until today.

Every bakers design the look of their UFO tarts. The left one looks like UFO and the right one looks like cow dung. You can find six designs in this article.

Today UFO Tart has become an iconic food of Sabah. To commemorate this popular Sandakan delicacy, 5 May is declared as the “UFO Tart Day” of Sabah.

May 5 is declared as a ‘UFO Tart Day’ in Sandakan

Where to Buy UFO Tart?

UFO tart costs about RM2.50 (≈USD0.60) each. It is not cheap because it takes many tedious steps to create this tart. Someone said the original recipe of UFO Tart is lost, so every bakers have their own formula to recreate the original flavours, then the tastes would be inconsistent. Anyway, the following are the shops that sell delicious UFO tarts, highly recommended by the local foodies.

Sandakan City

Kedai Kopi Wing Hup Lee (永合利): Lot 6, First Floor, Villa Permai, Mile, 5, Jalan Sibuga
Syn Ming Hing Cafe & Cake (新民兴): Jalan Lebuh Dua, Sandakan City Centre
San Da Gen Kopitiam (三大羹): next to NAK Hotel

UFO Tart of Sandakan. Left: original, tiramisu and mocha flavours sold by Kedai Kopi Wing Hup Lee (永合利). Right: UFO Tart by San Da Gen (三大羹)

Kota Kinabalu City

Kedai Kopi Mee Ngar (味雅面包茶餐室): HQ in Sandakan and have branches in Kota Kinabalu (Iramanis, Damai, Telipok, etc.)
Syn Syn Biscuits (新新): Damai Plaza in Luyang

Kedai Kopi Mee Ngar (味雅面包茶餐室) sells one of the best UFO tarts in Kota Kinabalu.

Do you like UFO too? Please recommend other places where you can find excellent UFO Tarts.

DIY: making your own UFO Tarts

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Keropok Amplang, the seafood cracker of Borneo

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Sabah is abundant in seafood, so many that we make crackers out of them. In the local market of Sabah, you would see piles of packaged yellowish and round-shaped snacks for sale. It’s Keropok Amplang (or Amplang), the most popular cracker of Sabah and a crunchy and savory snack made of seafood.

The scoop baskets are the traditional fishing tool of Sabah, so is the (standing) fish trap “Bubu” at the back. The motif on the blue sarong table cloth symbolizes squid.

In contrast to potato chips, which are packed in colourful bags bloated with air, Amplang is a “low-profile” snack sealed tightly in clear plastic bag. Potato chips (or crisps) is a junk food that only makes you thirsty, Amplang can be eaten as a complement food. You can dip Amplang in tomato sauce for richer taste. That reminds me of fish & chips, but Amplang is a “fish in chips” instead.

Amplang crackers are commonly made of ikan tenggiri (wahoo) or any type of Spanish mackerel

Most Amplang is made from the flesh of fish, prawn or squid, mixed with tapioca flour, starch, garlic, egg, sugar and salt (spice and MSG would be added). The mixture is then deep-fried in small pieces until it expands and turns crunchy.

Once you take amplang out of its packing, your whole room will be filled with seafood aroma.

Tawau in East Coast of Sabah is famous for producing the best Amplang in Sabah, so people think Amplang is a Sabah food. In fact, Amplang is first made in Samarinda, the capital city of East Kalimantan (Indonesian territory on Borneo Island).

I use seashell craft, fishing net, and seafood origami to hint that amplang is a seafood snack.

The traditional Amplang is made of freshwater fishes such as ikan pipih or ikan belida (Species: Chitala lopis). As the population of river fishes is declining, they are replaced by ocean fishes. The most common choice is Ikan Tenggiri (or Wahoo Fish, Species: Acanthocybium solandri), for its high quality flesh. Gabus (Striped snakehead) and Spanish mackerel are also used.

Ikan Tenggiri or Wahoo Fish is commonly used in making of Amplang and Hinava. The flesh of this big ocean fish remains white in raw and cooked states.

The original Amplang is fish flavour, but now you can find other flavours such as prawn, curry squid (sotong kari), sweet squid and cheese, and each has its own fans. I personally like curry squid and prawn which have stronger aroma.

Amplang in four flavours. 1) Original fish amplang (same colour as prawn amplang), 2) Curry Squid, 3) Squid, and 4) Cheese

Cheese Amplang tastes exactly like cheese ball crackers that melt in your mouth. Cheese amplang is double the price of fish amplang and it’s soft, taste great but not to my liking. Crab and seaweed flavours are available in Kalimantan, but I haven’t seen one in Sabah market.

Amplang of different flavours sold in plastic bags or nice package in the market

Amplang from Tawau is also available in other parts of Sabah. Other fish amplang might contain less seafood and taste starchy. Anyway, some sellers allow you to sample it before buying. A small pack of fish Amplang costs about RM6 or RM7.

Marshmallow Vs Amplang, West Vs East. Which is your favourite snack?

The more I look at Amplang, the more it looks like marshmallow, though they are totally different snacks. Anyway, in my heart, Amplang is always the “Marshmallow of the East”.

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Kuih Lidah the Tongue Cake

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Kind words of the tongue make people feel good, and a Kuih Lidah (Tongue Cake) can make your tongue happy. Kuih Lidah is a traditional snack of Bruneian Malay (Orang Brunei) from Papar, Sabah (Malaysia) and it is getting popular throughout Malaysia.

Kuih Lidah Buaya (or Kuih Tiram) is a popular snack in Sabah

Kuih Lidah got the name (translated as Tongue Cake) from its tongue-like shape. But many think that Kuih Lidah looks like an oyster and call it Kuih Tiram (Oyster Cake) instead.

Does Kuih Lidah look like an oyster (left) or crocodile’s tongue (right)?

Other names of Kuih Lidah include kerepek layang (Kite Chips), kuih kertas (Paper Cake), kuih lidah kucing (Cat Tongue Cake), kuih lidah buaya (Crocodile Tongue Cake), and kuih kapal terbang (Aeroplane Cake). Whatsoever, Kuih Lidah is the name most commonly used in Sabah.

Usually Kuih Lidah is coated with icing sugar so it is sweet outside, and layers of thin fried bread creates the crispness and buttery flavour felt in your mouth.

Kuih Lidah originated from from Papar of Sabah. The gambus in the background symbolises the identity of Orang Brunei there.

Milk powder would be sprinkled on Kuih Lidah to add more milky and creamy taste. Kuih Lidah goes well with tea and coffee, so it becomes an ideal snack for tea break.

Frank Sonnenberg says, “it’s better to bite your tongue than to eat your words.” So if we have to shut up, biting and eating a Kuih Lidah would comfort you. Bring some to the meeting then. Just kidding.

A delightful tea break with Kuih Lidah. The plant at top right is also known as Lidah Buaya.

The main ingredients of Kuih Lidah are wheat flour, egg, and margarine. They are mixed and kneaded with a bit of salt, water, and potato flour to create a dough. Next this dough is flatten by a rolling pin. Cooking oil and margarine are spread on the surface, then this flat dough is rolled into a tube and sliced crosswise into smaller pieces, to be fried into Kuih Lidah in hot oil.

Kuih Lidah is usually sold and packed in clear plastic bags in local markets.

Some tourists would want to bring home some Kuih Lidah as souvenir. However, Kuih Lidah is too brittle to travel long distance. Without dry agent, the sugar on the kuih would melt in hot day. That’s why most Kuih Lidah sold in our market is the “compact version”.

Different types of Kuih Lidah. The ones on blue plate are the original Kuih Lidah. On top, from left to right, are chocolate, green bean and milk powder flavours.

The compact version of Kuih Lidah is smaller, rounder and denser (harder), which allows it to be packed securely in clear plastic bags. You can find packaged Kuih Lidah easily in local markets and food stores of Sabah, for about RM3 to RM5 a pack.

Some would prefer bite-sized Kuih Lidah than the long and thin version.

However, compacted Kuih Lidah looks and tastes a bit different. Anyway, it’s received well and is one of the best selling Sabah snacks.

The three most common flavours of Kuih Lidah are milk powder, chocolate and green bean. Some creative makers invent special tastes such as strawberry, yam and cinnamon, but these are not popular. Which taste do you like or want to try?

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Kuih Pinjaram, the UFO Cake of Sabah

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Kuih pinjaram (or Penyaram, Penjaram, Cucur Jawa) is nicknamed “UFO cake” because of its flying saucer shape. Though pinjaram is a traditional snack of the Bajau and Bruneian Malay people in the state of Sabah (Malaysia), it has become one of the favourite snacks of Sabahans to go with their tea time or coffee break.

Three flavours of Kuih Pinjaram: original (yellow), pandan (green) and brown sugar (dark brown)

Pinjaram is a sweet and round cake with soft and chewy texture. Its edge is crispy, but fluffy and springy toward middle. As pinjaram is made of rice flour, cornflour, sugar, and coconut milk, gobbling up a few delicious pinjaram as your breakfast boosts your energy and mood.

Kuih pinjaram goes well with tea and coffee. The colourful baskets are Serdang, made of nypa palm leaves, and the bright-colored table runner has Bajau motif on it.

Pinjaram is available in three flavours (and colours), i.e. original (yellow), pandan (green) and brown sugar (dark brown). Some sellers use pandan syrup or palm sugar instead of regular sugar to create a more tantalizing aroma.

Many love Pandan-flavored Kuih Pinjaram because of its refreshing pandan aroma

Some cooks get creative and invent special flavours of pinjaram, for example, sweet potato, corn, chocolate, yam and durian flavors. If you are interested, you can order or see more at the Facebook of Pinjaram D’telisz (Whatsapp / Tel: +60 17-3015620, E-mail: theresaejum7@gmail.com).

Special flavours of Kuih Pinjaram. Photo credit: Pinjaram D’telisz @ Facebook

Pinjaram also has big and small versions. The big one is about 50% larger and can be found at Friday tamu (open-air native market) of Donggongon town (near Kota Kinabalu City). The small ones seem to be more common and one of the places to buy them is at tamu of Kota Belud town on Sunday. Big pinjaram is great as a stomach filler, and the small one is a wonderful tasty snack.

Which flavour of pinjaram is your favourite?

Besides festive and wedding parties, pinjaram is also served in local markets. FYI, 3 small Pinjaram costs only RM1.00. Five big pinjaram is sold for RM4.00 at Donggongon tamu. Anyway the prices vary in different towns.

Seller cooks kuih pinjaram on the spot (taken at tamu of Kota Belud)

The cooking of pinjaram is fun to watch. I like to see the sellers cook it on the spot (and pinjaram tastes best while it’s hot). First, the cooking oil is heated in a small wok. The batter is then poured in slowly to the hot oil from a small cap.

The batter swells, sizzles and turns from an unidentified frying object into an UFO cake. The pinjaram is flipped every few seconds to ensure that it is evenly cooked. The perfect pinjaram is said to be fluffy with a tinge of brown surrounding it, to give it a slightly crusty feel on the thin edges.

There is a viral post about pinjaram because of its beautiful shape, which is fondly known as Kuih Penyaram ‘Ngah Apoi’.

Kuih Penyaram ‘Ngah Apoi’ has perfect shape. Photo credit: Facebook of Asiah Asong

Its special recipe (credit: Melissa Mahli) is shared online too, so I translate it to English here for you to try.

Ingredients (for making 35 to 45 Pinjaram)

1 Kg of Wheat flour
1 Kg of Palm Sugar (Gula Apong in Malay language)
Baking powder (1 table spoon)
Salt water (mix 1 tea spoon)
Plain water (approximately 750ml)
Cooking oil

Cooking Steps

Pour plain and salt water into the flour
Add baking powder
Add the palm sugar
Mix well until foam appears on the surface of the mixture
Let the batter settled for a few minutes
Heat up moderate amount of cooking oil (not overly hot) in a wok
Pour about a small ladle of the batter to the hot cooking oil slowly to fry it
Use a spatula to turn and flip the pinjaram until it’s cooked evenly and thoroughly
Transfer the pinjaram to an oil drain rack

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Kuih Cincin, the Ring Cookie

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Say Yes to a wedding ring for a happy life, say Yes to Kuih Cincin (Ring Cookie or Ring Biscuit) for a happy food for life. Kuih Cincin is a traditional snack of Brunei-Malay and Bajau people in Sabah State of Malaysia. This sweet and crunchy cookie is enjoyed by many Sabahans as a yummy complement for coffee or tea break.

Kuih Cincin comes with different flavors and tastes

Kuih cincin literally translates to “ring cake”, but I think it’s more suitable to be categorized as a cookie / biscuit. The distinct shape of kuih cincin is its resemblance with the round outline of a flower drawing. The cookie has a pleasing sugary aroma with a hint of coconut.

Kuih Cincin, the Lord of the Rings in the world of cookies

Kuih Cincin has a crispy coating with dense and chewy sweet nutty and chocolaty filling inside. It’s so crunchy that the person next table can hear you eating it. The sound is so delightful that someone even made an ASMR videos for Kuih Cincin.

Enjoy the musical crunch of kuih cincin with a cup of tea

As shown in my pictures, Kuih Cincin has different types and flavours. In general, Kuih Cincin has hard (Iranun style) and soft (Brunei-Malay style) versions. The soft type is also crunchy but have softer texture and is usually sweeter. Compared with the yellowish color of original Kuih Cincin, dark-brown Kuih Cincin contains more brown or red sugar. My favourite is the brown and soft Kuih Cincin. You also can find mini Kuih Cincin made in Papar.

Kuih Cincin goes well with coffee. (Now I have to eat them all after the photo shooting)

The ingredients of Kuih Cincin are readily available. Basically, it’s a mixture of wheat and rice flour, brown, red palm (coconut-based) and white sugar, fine salt, and cooking oil. The batter is deep-fried twice to create two layers of texture and flavours, for more richness in tastes. The recipe is fairly simple so you can make kuih cincin yourself.

It’s easy to find Kuih Cincin for sale in local markets

You can buy Kuih Cincin from tamu (weekly open-air market in countryside) and some local markets, for about RM5 for a pack of 15 to 20 cookies. Some souvenir shops such as KadaiKu also sells Kuih Cincin in boxes with nice packing. It’s available in online malls such as Shopee and Lazada too.

Propose with a Kuih Cincin. If you fail, at least you can eat the cookie.

Kuih Cincin is commonly served in wedding ceremony and high in demand during festive time like Aidilfitri and Ramadan. It’s also exported to Peninsular Malaysia, Brunei, Singapore and China.

People may reject cookies from a website but they would accept ring cookie. Now go make some friends with Kuih Cincin.

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

What to Eat in Tenom

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As Tenom is a famous agriculture district, you can expect a lot of cuisines made from the fresh produces there. Besides online reviews, another way to discover best food and places to eat is by asking the locals. I’ve done the homework for those of you who plan for a gastronomic adventure in Tenom.

1. Corn-fed Chicken (包蜀鸡)

I didn’t realise that chicken can taste so good until I tried corn-fed chicken from Tenom. The meat is firm and bouncy, and the skin is more yellowish due to the diet. Unlike the overly thick fat found in farm chicken that feeds on cheap grains, the fat layer of corn-fed chicken is leaner. Another plus is they use older chicken, which has denser meat texture.

Corn / Maize Fed Chicken of Tenom served with oyster sauce

When asking the Tenom folks what’s the best restaurant to try corn-fed chicken, all of them answer Chi Hin Restaurant (志兴茶餐室) without hesitation. You can order chicken rice there for a taste of Tenom corn-fed chicken.

Yummy corn fed chicken meat of Tenom cooked with dark soy sauce.

Other Tenom’s delicacies such as spring rolls, meatballs and steamed pork belly are also sold at Chi Hin Restaurant (GPS: 5.122420835756874, 115.94213137109527, see Location Map) in Tenom town centre. However, Chi Hin keeps on changing their opening hours lately. Noon would be the best time to visit.

Chi Hin Restaurant (志兴茶餐室) is popular for the signature Tenom dishes such as spring rolls, meat balls, corn-fed chicken and steamed pork belly with taro.

2. Spring Rolls and Meatballs (丹南春卷肉丸)

Hakka Chinese style spring roll is roll of minced pork wrapped in a thin layer of egg crepe to seal the flavours. To make spring roll and meatball, the minced meat is beaten by clubs until it becomes paste with all the tastes unlocked in every cells. Spring roll slices and meat balls are always served together because they go well.

You can enjoy spring rolls and meat balls with or without noodle

Actually spring rolls and meatballs are commonly used in Chinese food in other parts of Sabah, but everyone seems to agree that the ones from Tenom taste the best. For a hearty Tenom-style breakfast, spring rolls and meatballs must be on your menu. They can be served in soup or with noodle (vermicelli or yellow noodle), or both. By the way, don’t forget the Tenom coffee too.

Iconic breakfast of Tenom: spring rolls and meat balls, noodle, stuffed tofu and Tenom coffee

I also love the soft and refined Tenom tofu (bean curd) stuffed with minced pork. Another merlot-coloured tofu shown in the picture above is made of swine blood. Blood tofu is not for everyone but it gives an interesting silky feel to your sinking teeth. In old days when food was scarce, all parts of pig are used and not wasted. Blood tofu is just one of the poor-man dishes invented that time.

Central Wet Market (Pasar Tenom) of Tenom. Besides fruits & vegetables, meats, seafood, and food stalls, there is a food court in top floor.

You can eat these (about RM7 per dish. Tofu is RM1.50 each) in top floor (Non-Halal section) of central wet market (Pasar Tenom, GPS: 5.121232020874259, 115.94220525139482, see Location Map) in the centre of Tenom town. The market opens as early as 5am. You’re better be there before 8am, or they would be sold out.

Top: soup with spring rolls, eggs and Sabah veges. Bottom: packed Tenom spring rolls are also available in supermarket outside Tenom town

3. Tenom Fried Noodle

For Tenom people, Tenom Fried Noodle is the taste of hometown. Slices of spring roll and roasted pork, choy sum and handmade yellow noodle are fried and tossed in a hot wok to bring out all the fragrance, and then soaked in aromatic eggy gravy. To many, this juicy wet noodle is more palatable than the typical oily and dry noodle. Eat it while it’s hot, so your nose can enjoy the pleasing smells too.

Tenom Fried Noodles by Lai Brother Cafe (left) and Foh Lee Baru Restaurant (right) in Tenom

Restoran New Foh Baru (GPS: 5.122695342082009, 115.94343031327064, see Location Map) and Lai Brother Cafe (GPS: 5.119417924215551, 115.94439726900632, see Location Map) can make very good Tenom fried noodle. Both restaurants are within walking distance from Tenom town centre.

Left: Foh Lee Baru Restaurant (新和利餐厅). Right: Lai Brother Cafe (赖氏兄弟茶餐厅) in Tenom town

Or you can try the economic Tenom noodle of Ah Li (阿立) stall at the corner of Pasar Tenom market (only open in early morning). You can order add-on such as fried egg and sausage if it’s too plain.

Economic Tenom noodles of Ah Li in Tenom wet market

4. Steamed Pork Belly with Taro (扣肉)

My mom is an expert in cooking this popular Hakka Chinese dish. She says it’s a pain to make because of its tedious and long cooking process that involves many steps and skills, from deep fry, cold bath, marination to steaming. Without good experience, the dish would taste terrible. That’s why most people are willing to pay nearly RM100 for a bowl.

Hakka Steamed Pork Belly with Taro (客家芋頭扣肉) is a favourite dish of many Sabah Chinese. At the right is the close-up shot of taro and pork slides.

Though starchy taro and oily pork belly are so different, they mix so well together like a happy marriage and become a bowl of well marinated pork belly and sweet taro that are so tender and aromatic. The belly fat turned into collagen fully absorbed with aroma of taro and various spices, and the sweetness of taro slices is enriched by the oil. For best result, the better graded pinang taro is preferred for its cake-like and buttery texture.

5. Tenom Coffee

Tenom Coffee is a household brand in Sabah, and a must-buy for tourists. Coffee from Tenom is mainly robusta breed, which has stronger taste and packs more caffeine. The best selling brands are Yit Foh, Fatt Choi and Tong Foh, all are sold in nice packaging in many shops of Sabah. It might be a cliché to say that you’ve never been to Tenom if you haven’t tried their coffee, but you really need that sip to complete your travel experience in this coffee town.

Tenom Coffee is the most popular coffee brand of Sabah. At the right is brewed coffee of Tenom Coffee Valley

To enjoy Tenom coffee to the fullest, I strongly recommend Tenom Coffee Valley located near the train station. Their barista will brew the coffee to take your appreciation of Tenom coffee to next level.

Left: Coffee bean statue in roundabout of Tenom town centre. Right: Tenom Coffee Valley cafe near the Tenom train station

6. Fruits

Blessed by cooling temperature of highland, most fruits and vegetables grow well in Tenom. Pomelo, a native fruit of Southeast Asia, is the No.1 fruit of Tenom and available throughout the year. Many hawkers are selling this bowling-sized fruit, which is rich in Vitamin C, antioxidant and sweet juice. When I was a child, I used to wore Pomelo skin hat for fun lol.

To see more variety of fruits in Tenom, the best time to visit is around the fruiting season in mid-year such as month of August. Do keep an eye for the huge avocado. They are selling like hotcakes. The creamy pulp of avocado is best served with condensed milk.

7. Other Sabah Food and Snacks

Local market is a great spot to explore different types of local food and to expand your acquired tastes. Besides Pasar Tenom, check out the tamu (local open-air market) behind Tenom Central Market every Wednesday and Sunday morning (6am-2pm). You can sample wide range of snacks, biscuits, pickles, cakes, fruits and crackers of Sabah, to name a few, banana fritters, satay, kuih cincin, Bambangan.

Some local food found in Tamu (open market) of Tenom town. Left: banana fritters with cheese (pisang cheese goreng). Right: Bambangan (pickled wild mango)

Photos taken in Tenom, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Tapai and Lihing, the Rice Wines of Sabah

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Rice is the staple food of Sabah people. And Tapai, the most iconic Sabah wine, is brewed from rice too. Tapai is more than just an alcoholic drink. It’s a glue that connects Sabahans from different ethnicity, and Rice is for our stomach and Tapai is for our soul.

A Spiritual Drink

When North Borneo (now Sabah) was ruled by British, some westerners lost their heads for not respecting the local drinking culture. In 1913, British imposed Tapai tax on Murut people, on top of forced labour and various other taxes. The Murut people were fuming. First time ever in Sabah history, Murut from Keningau, Tenom dan Pensiangan united to form a Murut Nation led by Ontoros Antanom, who crushed the British forces with his nearly 1,000 headhunting warriors until 1915.

Murut (means People of the Hill) is the third largest indigenous group of Sabah. They are fearsome headhunters in the past. Murut warriors are skillful in using blowpipe (with poison dart), spears and machete.

A research paper from The National University of Malaysia (UKM) explains the causes well. Here is an excerpt from the paper:

“What the British failed to realise was the social significance of drinking. It was essential in all types of ceremonies such as birth, death, the harvest festival, weddings, house building, settling feuds, honouring guest etc. For this reason, the native liquor tax can be seen as an infringement of Murut social life… their (Murut) main grievances were the taxes on tapai and the ladang tax for felling of jungle.”

— Callistus Fernandez, “Contesting Colonial Discourse: Rewriting Murut History of Resistance in British North Borneo from 1881 to 1915”

Kadazandusun people, the largest indigenous group of Sabah, believe that there is a spirit named Bambarayon, who dwells in paddy and its well-being is critical for a bountiful harvest. The making and drinking of Tapai comes with many ritualistic practices, to show respect to Bambarayon.

Tourist and native girl enjoy tapai in a bamboo cup (*suki*). No more war.

When a Sabahan looks at you, touches his throat lightly with finger tips, as if he is having a sore throat, and says Haus (Thirsty), he is signaling for a drink in a playful way. You can respond by saying Aramaiti, a verb or noun which means drink happily together or to drink until our faces are red. The “drink” can be beer, tapai, and other alcoholic drink.

Types and Taste of Tapai

Tapai is a collective term for many wines in Sabah. Though Tapai is commonly translated as rice wine, other food materials such as tapioca and pineapple are used in place of rice too. Every Sabah ethnic groups and districts may have their own version of Tapai because of different ingredients. For example, a bit of tobacco shreds or cinnamon powder would be added to give Tapai a special flavour.

Aramaiti brings us closer together. At the left is the wine jar. Sabahans store Tapai in jars instead of barrels.

Rice wine has many names such as tapai, talak, lihing, linutau, kinopasa and kinupi. The wines brewed from tubers of cassava (tapioca) are called montoku (potent!) or kinomulok. The coconut flower stems can produce pinkish sap that is famous for making tuak, toddy or bahar.

Lihing (left) and Tapai (right) are the most well-known rice wine of Sabah.

Tapai varies in tastes such as bitter sweet, sour, sour sweet and plain. Tapai with bitter sweet taste is considered the best quality, and plain taste is the worst. Tapai is rich in carbohydrates, polysaccharides and alcohol. Generally Tapai is quite potent, with alcoholic contents ranges from 0.05 to 50%, sometimes even up to 70%, so it can knock out a lightweight drinker fairly quick. In my experience, never mix Tapai with beer, unless you have a bed to fall onto, right after a swift black out.

*Tumpung*, another type of rice wine, which uses regular cooked white rice and simpler to make. To drink, just add water and sip the liquid with a straw.

Traditionally, Tapai is brewed and stored in ceramic jars, the highly priced assets that are treated as symbol of wealth and valuable bride price in history.

Lihing Vs Tapai

Lihing is the most popular type of Tapai. Both Tapai and Lihing are brewed with the similar methods. Glutinous rice (sticky rice) is used in brewing Lihing, and Tapai uses normal and brown rice. The key difference between Tapai and Lihing is – Lihing has the sediments (rice and yeast particles) segregated from Tapai, so Lihing is more refined and appears as a translucent and beautiful amber liquid (it turns dark when aged, even better). In contrast, Tapai is cloudy due to its residues. Lihing is also fermented for long time (two or more months).

“Living is a Blessing when Lihing is the Answer.”

Therefore, Tapai is a raw wine stored and served in jar, mainly for self-consumption, while Lihing is more marketable and better for preservation. Same as Tapai, Lihing can be made from rice, tapioca or pineapple. In fact, Lihing is also widely used in cooking of some delicious dishes such as Lihing Chicken and Drunken Crabs. Adding Lihing to Tuaran Fried Noodle also enhances its aroma. You can even make Lihing Ice-Cream.

Lihing noodle soup (黄酒面线), only available in a few Chinese coffee shops such as Seng Hing Coffee Shop in Sinsuran of Kota Kinabalu City

There are a few Sabah entrepreneurs who are really passionate about making top quality Lihing, and they want Lihing to evolve and walk out of “kampung” (village) to become a household brand. Look at the line-up of Lihing below. You will be impressed to see how creative the Lihing products can be! (This is not a sponsored post)

1. Lihing Nilyn

Lihing Nilyn is a homemade rice wine brand originated from Penampang. Ms. Honilin Pudin, the founder of Lihing Nilyn, has been making Lihing for over 50 years, using the traditional methods inherited from her grandparents. I like the classy bottling and Sumazau dancers label of Lihing Nilyn, which make it a very presentable souvenir or gift.

Website: neomarketingsb.weebly.com
E-mail: lihingnilyn@yahoo.com, neomarketingsb@gmail.com
Phone No.: +60 12-8311440 (Marina)

2. Haus of Lihing (HOL)

Eve June, from Papar, initiated HOL in Kuala Lumpur then slowly branching to Sabah in July 2020. And now she is looking forward to set up a production centre in Phuket, Thailand. The Lihing of HOL is pure rice wine without added sugar and water.

Classic and herb Lihing by Haus of Lihing

Besides classic Lihing, HOL also creates Lihing that contains herb such as ginger, cinnamon, ginseng, komburongoh, tongkat ali or kacip fatimah to boost its health value.

Premium Lihing by Haus of Lihing. Vagas means Rice in Dusun language. They say it can improve your dance moves.

HOL also invests in R&D on production of premium Lihing by standardizing the quality factors such as fermentation time, type of yeasts, stringent hygiene, controlled temperature and quality measurement, under the guide of champion Lihing guru. HOL is also in the midst of building an education center to promote Sabah rice wines in Kuala Lumpur. This centre will be the only research centre where visitors can learn about Sabah rice wine, and have a taste of the 7 wonders of Lihing at the end of the tour.

Facebook: borneolihing
Instagram: borneospirits
E-mail: hausoflihing@gmail.com
Whatsapp & Phone: +60 12-8219835

3. Kasarahan Lihing

“Kasarahan” is a Dusun word which means reminiscing or thinking back to the old days. You know red wine goes well with certain meat. Many years ago, I discovered that chilled Lihing and fruits make a yummy combo. Therefore, I’m so delighted to find that fruity Lihing does exist. I tried the mango Lihing from Kasarahan and really like it.

The available fruit flavours are rambutan, mango, banana, grapes, pineapple, apple, and soursop. These Lihing are fermented from real fruits, which requires different brewing techniques.

Facebook: KasarahanLihingIX
E-mail: kasarahanproduct@gmail.com
Whatsapp No.: +60 19-8628981
Instagram: kasarahan_lihing

Drinking Tapai

Tapai is also known as the “Happifying Brew”. It’s an integral part of Kadazandusun and Murut cultures, which view Tapai as the spiritual energy or the life force of the rice spirit, Bambarayon. To sip the Tapai when offered is honouring the Bambarayon and the host. Bonding and friendship are strengthen when everyone come together to socialize and sip tapai during rituals, celebrations and festivals.

In Murut traditions, Tapai is sipped from a jar

Tapai Sipping Party of Murut (tiiman)

The tapai sipping party is an intangible cultural heritage of Borneo because it is such a unique social gathering, which would remind you of the Japanese tea ceremony (茶道, sadō or chadō). Unfortunately, due to hygiene concerns, tiiman culture would change. Now drinking from a personal jar (tumpung), bamboo cup (suki) or plastic bottle is more preferred.

In Murut traditions, Tapai is not drunk from a cup or container but sipped through a tube straw, straight from the wine jar. First, guests are invited to a longhouse, where the host has one or more jars filled with Tapai ready for sipping. The lid is lifted off and the opening is covered with shallow cup of banana or tarap leaves. Clean water is then poured into the jar until it is full. After a few minutes, the water will dilute with Tapai and fit for drinking.

When Tapai is dry up, more water is added and drink until it has no taste.

Before drinking, the host or lead-drinker (mommuun) recites a short pre-drinking prayer called mongirnbolit to seek blessing and protection from Bambarayon so everyone is free from sickness, poisoning and misbehavior associated with the drinking session.

Next the long straw or siphon (tusuk) pierces through the leave cover and insert inside the jar. Now the guests can take turn to sip the Tapai from the jar. When Tapai is dry up after some rounds, more water is added and the sipping continues until the wine becomes tasteless, then new jar would be open for more drinking. The drinkers can eat some salted meat, fish, vegetables and other thirst-provoking tidbits nearby the jar during drinking intervals. The drinking session is accompanied by the gong beating, or singing of folk songs or drinking chants. However, such merry making actions are forbidden in funeral ceremony and certain rituals.

The brewing and storage jars are commonly known as tajau, tampayan, bunduon or kakanan. In the photo are antique Tapai jars from different districts. From top to bottom, left to right: *kologiau* from Ranau, *sampa* from Keningau, *rangkang* from Kota Belud, *sisikan* from Ranau

It is a common custom that the tapai in the jars must be finished. At the end, most guests would be so drunk and lay around the floor.

Drinking Etiquette

You must be respectful to the host and other guests. To avoid leaving a bad impression, the following is a list of “Don’t”:

Tapai sipping is meant to be a friendly event. Fighting and quarreling won’t be tolerated.
It’s impolite to refuse the offer to drink. Even if you don’t drink, just sip a bit to wet your lip to give face.
Don’t complain to the host if the Tapai doesn’t taste good. You would insult the host.
Don’t blow the straw while sipping. Don’t pull it out of the jar. Don’t touch the straw while someone is sipping.
Don’t sneeze, spit or vomit while you sip.
Don’t overtake other drinkers in queue.
Be mindful of your manner when you are drunk. The elders will observe your personality. A disaster if you act like a party pooper in front of your crush and her parents.
Don’t just take the tapai snacks without drinking.
Though you are high on alcohol, don’t get “overly friendly” with the wives and daughters of others.
Don’t move the jar without permission from the host.
Don’t step over the jar or the food.

Please don’t drive after drinking. You can sleepover, or have a designated driver or taxi to send you home safely.

You can sing or have some food during the drinking session

How to Make Lihing

Many households can make their own Tapai or Lihing. They are quite simple to make. But if you want the best Lihing, you need to master the skill in managing the water, rice, temperature, yeast and timing. Taboos in brewing Lihing include no swearing and fighting during the rice cooking, or the wine will turn sour or spoiled. In the past, the leavening or fermenting ritual (moginomulok) must be performed by a bobohizan (Native High Priest) first to ensure a successful brewing.

Left: The magic of the fermentation happens when rice starch being converted to sugars, then to alcohol by enzymes from microbes. Right: Yeast balls or *saad* (*sasad*) is a mixture of cinnamon barks, lengkuas (a type of ginger) and pounded rice being made into paste, sun-dried and formed into dough, then strung together.

Ingredients

1 gantang (2.419 Kilograms) of glutinous rice (pulut)
20 balls of yeast (sasad)
4 table spoon of red rice

For hygiene reasons, you can drink Tapai from personal bamboo cup (*suki*) or container.

Process

Wash the glutinous rice and boil it with right proportion of clean water. Don’t overcook the rice.
Spread the cooked rice on a mat or banana leaves to let it cool down.
Pound the yeast (fermenting agent) into powder and mixed it thoroughly with the rice.
Scrub a ceramic jar clean with daing or gosing leaves, and dry the jar completely under the sun.
Store the rice mixture in the jar and seal the opening airtight (it’ll turn into vinegar if exposed to air).
For flavouring, additives such as tobacco, cinnamon and other herbs may be added.
Place the fermenting jar in a dark, cool and dry place for a month or two.
When mature, sieve the fermented mash to collect the clear brownish liquor (wine).

References

“Tapai, Traditional Drinks of the Natives of Borneo” by Rayner F. Udong
“The Beliefs and Practices of the Kadazandusun-Murut” by John Seet
Special thanks to Ms Eve June, Ms Bernardine and Mr. Simon for sharing their knowledge on Sabah rice wines

No Tapai? No problem. You can sip some beer. LOL

Thank you for reading until this point. I hope this article helps you to learn about Sabah wines in a fun way. I have no intention of promoting binge drinking, as having too much of anything is always harmful. So, drink moderately, and stay happy and ~~intoxicated~~ healthy! Aramaiti!

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo