Finally I saw Bridal veil stinkhorn, one of the fungus on my photography dream list. By looking at its beautiful appearance, you can understand that why I like it so much. This fungus is girdled with a net-cage and lacy structure called the indusium, or “skirt”, which hangs down from its bell-shaped cap.
Bridal veil stinkhorn has many other common names such as Crinoline stinkhorn, Long net stinkhorn, Veiled lady, bamboo fungus and bamboo pith. I have no idea what is the function of its “skirt” which earns it these names. As its name implies, it is stink. The scientific name of the most common Bridal veil stinkhorn in Sabah is Phallus indusiatus, a fungus in the Phallaceae family.
We didn’t see this stinkhorn the previous day, so it must be very new. Though sighting of this fungus are recorded in hilly forest of Kinabalu Park, Kionsom (Inanam), Bukit Padang, and Kampung Kiau Nuluh (Kota Belud), you need a bit of luck to spot it, as it is short-lived. The fungus would be almost gone after 2 days.
At first, it seems like many ants were busy running on the fungus. When I took a closer look, those insects are not ants. Can anyone tell me what they are?
Bridal veil stinkhorn is different from other fungus. It doesn’t use wind to spread their spores (seeds). Instead, it produces a sticky spore mass on its tip which smells like carrion, to attract flies and bees to come and disperse the spores.
Fashion inspired by Bridal Veil mushroom. Just for fun.
Despite its foul smell, Bridal veil stinkhorn is edible. In fact, stinkhorns are cultivated in China and considered as a delicacy which is rich in protein, carbohydrates and dietary fiber.
This is another species of Bridal veil stinkhorn that I saw in Danum Valley. It’s Phallus cinnabarinus with a cinnabar red skirt. The cap is covered in a sticky, foul-smelling, spore-filled gleba that attracts flies and other insects to carry its spores.
(Picture source: Hat Veils – HatVeils.com) To you all, this fungus really looks like a shy lady in bridal veil.
(Picture source: Romina Lopez Photos | Myspace) Well, to me, it looks like a lady in fishnet shirt, oh… sexy mama, LOL. 😀
Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
This year I celebrated my birthday differently. No Internet, no birthday cake, and no cozy bed. For me, to feel great being alive is to do something I love. Touching some boobs would be awesome, so this birthday wish brings me to Batu Nenen (Boobs Rock) in Maranggoi of Kota Belud.
(Left) Photos next to a Liposu fruit tree. (Right) Oh dear I am (in middle) so fat. At the right is Risin (my guide) and left is Uncle Sinuar (cook)
About Maranggoi and Pinolobu
Located in Pinolobu Village (Kampung Pinolobu), Maranggoi Eco Tourism is a new destination of rural tourism, which promotes travelling in countryside of Sabah. This village is blessed with forest, waterfalls, spring water and clean river. Maranggoi is the name of the river, which is named after a missing young man Maranggoi, who used to collect resin in forest around that river. But one time he didn’t return home after 3 days, which he normally did. The villagers went out looking for him and shouted his name, but they only found the cigarette butt Maranggoi left.
Kampung Pinolobu is a village about 17 Kilometres away from Kota Belud town. Pinolobu means breaking into a new frontier. Most of the population in Pinolobu Village is Dusun Tindal people and majority of them are farmers. Fruits and crops are everywhere in Pinolobu, to list a few, tapioca, pineapple, mango, rambutan, durian, sweet potato, and rubber. The entire village is built on hill area. To move around neighbourhood, you would need to walk up and down some slopes.
Visit the Boobs Rock (Batu Nenen)
Last month I booked a 2-day-1-night tour with the operator of Maranggoi. I drove 2 hours from Kota Kinabalu to Kampung Pinolobu. I was a bit worried about the bad weather lately, and wished the sky would be kind to me on my birthday. Luckily, the day was clear in the morning and by 7:30am I met Risin, who was my guide. Risin is married with 4 kids and own a farm in Kampung Pinolobu.
River pond with crystal clear water
After a light breakfast in a local shop, we headed to the starting point of jungle trekking, to visit four waterfalls and Boobs Rock in Maranggoi. The hike started in the base camp, which is nearby the first waterfall, Wasai Telupid. Telupid is the name of a rare exotic tree that bears sour fruit, its leaf also has strong flavor of sour, and both can make mouth watering pickle and food.
First waterfall (Telupid Waterfall) in Maranggoi river trail
To reach Batu Nenen, We needed to walk over 2 KM along Maranggoi River and passed by a few waterfalls. As this is upstream, the boulders are huge and the stream is crystal clear. Risin says there is no more village upriver so the water is unpolluted. Maranggoi River also seldom floods, even in rainy season. Do bring swimwear if you want to enjoy the clean and cooling water. All waterfall ponds are shallow and safe for a soak.
Telupid tree, a rather rare and exotic tree with edible sour fruits and leaves
The nature trail to Boobs Rock is pretty challenging for tourists who are not used to jungle trekking. We have to cross a few streams and climbed over many slippery boulders (Do expect to get wet until knee level). Besides, half of the time I walked on narrow soil trail along the side of the slope, a misstep could cause a bad fall down the slope. Most of the steep sections don’t have rope or rail support. Landslides blocked our way a few times, and we had to clear another path to get around them. Just to warn you that this is a rugged trail. Most visitors can do it but casual tourists would feel uncomfortable.
Left: zombie forest ants infected by parasitic fungus (commonly known as Cordyceps). Right: big caterpillar
Due to hunting activity, no big wildlife is spotted, so forest leech is absent too. We did see some fresh holes dug by wild boars foraging for food. According to Risin, Konexer captured the video of a Tufted Ground Squirrel (species: Rheithrosciurus macrotis) in camera trap there. Tufted Ground Squirrel is also known as Vampire Squirrel, it’s very rare and endemic to Borneo. It has the world’s fluffiest tail.
Bat Cave under the boulder
The riverine zone is a regenerated secondary forest with dense undergrowth. Risin shows me some interesting trees and herb that we spotted along the trail. Some fruit trees have spread into this forest, like rambutan, tarap, and cempedak. We passed through quite a number of farmland and rubber plantation in forest edge but didn’t see anyone else though.
Withered flower (left) and bud (right) of Rhizanthes lowii
The most exciting plant I saw is Rhizanthes lowii, which is endemic to Borneo and a parasitic flowering plant without leaves, stems, and roots. Rhizanthes is a corpse flower same family as rafflesia flower. Its flower lasts only a few days. Though I saw only the withered flower and bud, this is already worth my trip.
Gotokon Waterfall at Maranggoi River
After 1.84 Kilometre, we arrived the second waterfall, Gotokon Waterfall, which is a cascading waterfalls with the highest tier around 4 Metres in height. Personally I think it’s the most beautiful waterfall in Maranggoi river. Gotokon is derived from the term that describes the action (Togop) of scratching tree bark to collect sap. The sap is sticky and can be used as strong glue for bird trap.
Gotokon Waterfall is about 1.85 KM away from campsite
The next waterfall, Ronggu Waterfall, is less than 400 Metres ahead. Because I kept stopping for pictures so we were slow and it’s already 12:33pm, so we decided to have our lunch next to this waterfall. Risin brought some rice and traditional side dishes. We sat on the rocks and enjoyed our food.
Ronggu Waterfall (about 2.12 KM away from campsite)
We continued our hike after lunch. Within 15 minutes, we approached a rockface with flowing water. Probably due to the natural minerals, the water leaves a black trail on the surface it flows through. Risin says, “this is spring water (mata air) that percolates through rocks! We have a few spring water sources around Maranggoi. They never dry up even during drought. Instead, they even overflow in dry season occasionally. Sometimes I bring buckets of natural water from Maranggoi to my twin daughters who study in Tamparuli because they are not used to drinking the chlorinated water in town.”
Natural spring water coming out from the rocks next to Maranggoi River. Note the picture at the right, the mineral deposits in the spring water turn rocks into dark color
Finally, we made it to Batu Nenen (Boobs Rock) at 1:33pm. The local myth mentions about Batu Hujan (Rock Rain), which is a display of the wrath of God. Everything hit by this rain will turn into rock. The Boobs Rock was probably an unlucky woman hit by the rock rain, but no confirmation about its origin. When I wanted to have some quality time with the boobs rock, heavy downpour suddenly came. We left in a hurry. Bummer!
Boobs Rock (Batu Nenen)Risin enjoyed grabbing Boobs Rock (Batu Nenen) lolA strange tree near to Batu Nenen (Boobs Rock). It looks like p….
We walked back to the village. After nearly 2 hours I saw rows of whitish trunks of rubber trees, I knew we were home.
Watu Kepungit Waterfall looks mythical with the vines
What I Ate
I like to acquire new tastes so I requested them to provide local meals. Their traditional village food is not bad, as it is freshly caught or harvested locally and not high in fat and sugar. White rice is always the “main course”. The rice is compacted and wrapped in big Doringin (Dillenia beccariana) leaf and they call this rice pack linopot. Farmers always carry linopot to the field because such packing prevents the rice from spoiling fast.
Breakfast
I had some Linuput rempis (fishes wrapped and cooked in multiple layers of doringin leaves). The small fishes are from the river next to our camp. “Palm heart” soup is new to me, the soft core of palm trees such as banana and coconut are edible.
Breakfast: Linuput rempis, palm core soup and white rice . There are two liposu fruits at the back.
Lunch
These are what I ate at the waterfall. I love sour food so the liposu fruit has become my new favorite. The fruits are cut into slices, red color is the raw pulp and whitish color ones are smoked liposu.
Lunch at waterfall: salty fishes, canned spicy fishes, sour liposu fruit slices and wrapped rice (Linopot)
Dinner
Rice with Bahu (Mango pickle with red chili) and raw tarap soup. The older the Bahu mango, the more sour it is. The seeds of tarap fruits are edible and taste like peanut.
Dinner: Linopot (wrapped rice), Bahu (mango pickle) and salted fishes
Fruits
The highlight is Sukang durian, a mini durian grows in the wild but now also widely cultivated in Sabah orchard. The fruit is smaller but creamy and meaty. The durian aroma isn’t too overpower. Besides, I also bought 7 Kilograms of rambutan fruit (RM3/Kg) from a villager. I’m lucky because it is fruiting season.
Rambutan fruit and yummy Sukang durian
Second day of the my trip is to tour around Kampung Pinolobu, a relaxing day.
Stingless Bee (Kelulut) Farm
Stingless bees are also honey producer. It’s called Kelulut in Malay language but sounds similar to something negative in local language, so the local people prefer to call it Tantadan. Stingless bees don’t sting and Kelulut honey can fetch higher price than normal honey, so more and more villagers rear stingless bees at home.
Visit Stingless Bee (Kelulut) Farm in Kampung Pinolobu, Kota Belud
I visited an organic stingless bee farm that is built by local community in Pinolobu Village. There are 75 bee houses in the farm. If they include bee houses of whole village, there will be a total of over 300. Each hive produces about 2 Kg of honey per month, and it is sold for RM20 per 100 grams, a good side income.
This kelulut farm is placed under the rambutan fruit trees and next to clusters of Honolulu creeper flowers (air mata puteri), the preferred host plant for the stingless bees. Sometimes beekeepers feed the bees with rambutan and banana fruit if the bees can’t go out harvesting nectar during rainy season.
There are about 75 Stingless Bee (Kelulut) houses in this farm
Stingless bees are a lot smaller than honeybees, so they can access tiny flowers and extract more nutrients. They build their nests in tree hollows and crevices. When the villagers find their hives in the wild, they would cut the log section that contains the nest and transfer them to the bee house. This has to be done at night, after all the worker bees return to their nest.
The taste of kelulut honey varies in flavour depend on fruit and flowers they visit. In general, kelulut honey is sourish sweet, usually sweetness is the base taste, with a bit of sourness or bitter, or a mix of all, sometimes with a hint of fruit aroma. The colour of the stingless bee honey can be yellow, brown and even pink (rare and more expensive but no difference in nutrients).
Stingless bees store their honey in the containers called honey pots. The fun part of the visit is to sip the honey from these pots with a straw. The stingless bee honey is sticky so I need to suck harder. It’s sourish sweet, with a bit of durian aroma.
Sipping honey from Kelulut nest
This stingless bee farm has more than 6 species of stingless bees. Heterotrigona itama and Geniotrigona thoracica are the preferred species for beekeeping, as they are more productive. I was attacked by a swarm of Lophotrigona canifrons when I got too close to their nest for filming. Their bite is like ant bite, not really hurt but definitely unpleasant to have the bees all over your face lol.
Risin says a teaspoon of kelulut honey twice a day can improve the immunity system. If you want to learn more about kelulut honey and beekeeping, you may check out my last post.
Burung Jinak (Tamed Birds)
The last stop is to check out the tamed birds. There are 5 or more wild Magpie robin that can be hand-fed. The villager just brings some mealworms and whistle to call them. The birds gathered and chirped on a tree nearby. Then the birds fly to him and pick up the worms from his hand. It took them some years to gain trust from these wild birds.
Calling and hand-feeding wild magpie robin birds
I’ve been feeding some feral pigeons for a long time. Even today they still don’t want to befriend me. So the lesson is – only nicely treat those who appreciate your friendship. Some freeloaders are just takers and don’t deserve to be your friend.
Camping Grounds
There are two camping grounds in Maranggoi. Bunti Campsite has better environment and facilities. Wasai Telupid Campsite is quite basic (shelter and toilet only) but it offers more camping experience, and it’s a short walk to a beautiful waterfall. Mosquitoes may present during dusk. Insect repellent and mosquito coil would be useful. The night is quite cooling like air-conditioning. Do bring a good sleeping bag, mat and some warm clothing. Both campsites have no phone service (only weak signal of Digi in higher ground).
Bunti Campsite. The big building is the house of Uncle Sinuar. I overnight in the small hut (picture at the right)
I was staying in Bunti Campsite, which is well maintained by Uncle Sinuar. He also cooked for my meals with produces / caught from his farm and river. This 70-year-old and friendly villager is still active in farming. He worked as a carpenter before, so he builds all the hut and gazebo there himself. Visitors can choose to sleep in camping tent or the hut.
Camping ground and river (where I bath) at Bunti Campsite
Booking and Contact
You can find more information and photos in their Facebook page @ Maranggoi. It’s more fun to camp with a group of friends. Below is the price list for your perusal (rates as of August 2020).
Entrance Fee
Adult: RM3.00 Senior (65 and above): Free Child (7-12 years old): RM2.00 Child (Below 7): Free
Activity Fee
Hiking: RM5.00 Visit Stingless Bee Farm: RM5.00 Camping: RM7.00/Night (bring your own camping tent) Camping Tent Rental: RM15.00/unit
For full-day or overnight trip, you may consider the following packages. I was going for package no.2. For further information or booking, please call or Whatsapp 0111-514-7226 (Risin Ituk), 0111-530-7865 (Jalni), 019-880-3344 (Lazrus)
Package 1 (Preface)
Price: RM56.00 per person / 1 Day
Hiking & jungle trekking (4 Waterfalls)
Stingless honey bee farm visit
Fish feeding
Lunch
Guide(s)
Certificate
Package 2 (Night with Maranggoi)
Price: RM100 per person / 2 Days 1 Night
Hiking & jungle trekking (4 Waterfalls)
Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Stingless honey bee farm visit
Cultural night
Fish feeding
Guide(s)
Certificate
Package 3 (Maranggoi Outdoor / Survival package)
Price: RM150 per person / 2 Days 1 Night
Hiking & jungle trekking (4 Waterfalls)
Camping
Bonfire
Night hiking (optional)
Cultural night (optional)
Guide(s)
Rice (provided)
Certificate
Gathering foods from the river and forest
How to get there
Maranggoi is situated in Kampung Pinolobu (GPS: 6.254638, 116.490666, see Location Map) of Kota Belud district and about 84 Kilometres away from Kota Kinabalu city (2 hours by driving). There is paved road in good condition from Kota Kinabalu to this village, except the last 7KM of gravel road (still accessible by sedan). Or you can request them to pick you up in Kota Belud town or Kota Kinabalu city.
Gravel road to Maranggoi Eco Tourism site (Kampung Pinolobu)
Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
Sabah culture is so colourful. We have over 30 indigenous and 200 sub-ethnic groups, most of them have distinct traditional costume, a heritage that tells the world their identity, traditions, and stories. Sabah is beautiful because of this cultural diversity. I’ve been photographing Sabah traditional costumes for 15 years and would like to share what I think are the 10 most beautiful traditional costumes of Sabah (not in any order).
Please note there are always variants in costumes due to different occasions such as wedding, ceremony and social status, so I only can give you a general view. FYI, many ethnic groups share common elements such as linangkit (needlework), siga (headgear) and belts (e.g. Tangkong, Himpogot).
1. Kadazan Penampang
Kadazandusun is the largest indigenous group of Sabah, and Kadazan Penampang is the biggest sub-ethnic. Their traditional costume has become an iconic dress to represent Sabahans.
Kadazan Penampang couple in traditional costume
Kadazan Penampang costume has basic trimmings and embroidery and may look a bit plain. However, simplicity is beauty, like Vietnamese Ao Dai and Chinese Cheongsam. Though it has relatively less shining ornaments and accessories, it is an elegant cloth inspired by sarong kebaya.
The costume of young female consists of a long cylindrical wrap skirt and a sleeveless blouse (Sinuangga’), and decorated with gold trimmings running along the opening for head and arms, and along the seams at the side and along the middle of the back. Around the trimming on neck and front is 20 or more gold plated Betawi buttons.
Bobohizan is the high priestesses of Kadazan people. They wear large headgear with feathers and beads.
Silver-dollar chains (himpogot) and brass ring belts (tangkong) in set of 2 to 3 are worn around the waist and hip to emphasize the curve. Some himpogot and tangkong are antique passed on to women as heirloom or wedding dowry, they can cost thousands of dollars!
“Light version” of Kadazan Penampang costume could be a daily wear
The jacket and trousers of Kadazan Penampang men bear some Chinese influence. They wear headgear called siga, a very intricately woven square piece of headcloth, handwoven or embroidered, and folded to the shape of the peak of the Mount Kinabalu. Most men from Kadazandusun ethnic group wear siga.
The basic material for clothing is black commercial fabric, silk or velvet for ceremonial occasions. It is also made from cotton for daily wear.
2. Dusun Lotud
With a population of only 6,000 in Tuaran district, Dusun Lotud is very famous for weaving the embroidered panel called linangkit, which is used to decorate the skirt, sash and trousers of many Sabah tribes. Without linangkit, Sabah traditional costumes would be far less colourful.
Dusun Lotud couple in ceremonial attire. Note the siwot on her head, an ornament which is stuck into the hairbun. It consists of four bunches of red cloth and black cock feathers. The strings of silver-green beads in forehead was used to be the iridescent wings of beetles in old days.
In English, linangkit is sometimes referred to as needle weave or tapestry weave. a technique closely resembles the tatting or frivolite in Europe. Strips of linangkit are used by various native tribes to decorate and join the seams of their clothing. Different ethnic groups have different patterns and colours of linangkit.
Dusun Lotud girls in ceremonial attire with the following items: Sandai: long sash draped over one shoulder to the front and over the next shoulder falling to the back. Karo: a necklace made of mostly long barrel beads of glass, shell and carnelian.
The traditional costume of Dusun Lotud, be it the long sleeve ceremonial attire or short sleeve version, is just gorgeous. In fact, this costume is one of the favourite choice for contestants in Unduk Ngadau beauty pageant (Harvest Festival Queen) during Kaamatan (Sabah Harvest Festival).
Women in Dusun Lotud traditional costume. Gonob: knee-length black cotton tube skirt. From the waist down is a panel of linangkit needle work. Kuluwu: circular sash with gold trimming along the edges. At the seam is wide band of linangkit. Lilimbo: wide girdle of interconnected loops of split rattan worn around the hips. (Red colour for childless women, black colour for mothers)
Man is wearing headgear called sundi can be folded in different ways. When two points stick out, the weaver has two wives and so on (now you know!).
3. Rungus
Rungus of northern Sabah is considered as the most “traditional” and unique tribe among all Sabah indigenous groups. Rungus women wear a dark bandeau with delicate hand-stitched patterns, a matching knee-length tube skirt and a slipover that drapes over the arms like sleeves. The narrow upper zone of the bodice is decorated with horizontal bands filled with floating weft and/or embroidered motifs. The lower part of the bodice is embellished with vertical bands.
Rungus people dancing Mongigol Sumandai
The women’s hair is pulled back in a neat bun and decorated with a titimbok (a multi-colored floral headpiece), sisingal (a thin band of beads tied together around the forehead) and rampai (a hairpin which has two or three rows of folded pieces of colourful cloth strung together and which float down to the nape)
Rungus woman costume decorated with exotic accessories. Hip band looped with brass rings and antique beads called orot and two pinakol, beaded shoulder bands worn diagonally across the chest. Togkol: string of carnelian, glass and shell beads looped crossed over the shoulders. Sulau: necklace of old beads and a disc of white shell (giant clam) in front and back.
The dress is “musical” too, by having many tiny brass bells attached to bottom hem line of their skirt, making delightful tinkling sounds when they walk or dance.
Rungus women wearing brass ring necklace (Ganggalung) and legging (Lungkaki)
Some older Rungus women wear heavy brass ring necklace and legging. It’s a fading costume. Ganggalung: discs of brass coil worn as necklace. Lungkaki: tightly coiled brass ornament covering the lower legs.
The headgear of men is brightly coloured Kain tinohian (a.k.a. kain pis), a richly embroidered cloth with legendary creatures and takes four months to weave one.
4. Murut Tagol
Murut means “People of the Hill”, and majority of this third largest indigenous group of Sabah lives in interior. They were used to be fearsome headhunters in the past, and men preserve their wild warrior outfit until today (they prefer proper shirts anyway).
Girls in Murut traditional costume
Murut has over 15 ethnic groups, and Murut Tagol is the most skillful for their weave work. Murut women wear black, sleeveless blouse and a long, black skirt decorated with colourful beads motifs of daily objects such as flowers, insects, animals and ferns. Female skirt has hip belts made of chained white round seeds collected from Job’s Tears plant (Coix lacryma-jobi).
The men costume is even more interesting. They wear vest, frontal and rear flaps made of tree bark. First, barks of the tarap or tamarang (timadang) trees (Artcocarps tamaran) are peeled from the trunks, soaked in stream for days to soften them up, then it is pounded, washed and rinsed, and lastly dried under sun for the fabric. However, man costume is too “sexy” so they also wear short pants for more cover.
Beautiful female traditional costume of Murut
The headgear of Murut may be adorned with long tail feathers of Great Argus Pheasant. To see more Murut costumes, you may check out Kalimaran Festival which is held annually in Tenom.
5. Bajau Sama
While most Kadazandusun and Murut people use black as the base colour, Bajau goes bold with striking colours such as yellow, red, green and blue. This also reflects in their multi-coloured and elaborate floral motifs in their crafts, an element greatly inspired by Islam. Bajau in Kota Belud town is also known as Cowboys of the East due to their mastery in horse-riding skill.
Traditional costumes of Bajau Same
Bajau women wear an unusual headgear called sarempak, which is a two-pieced head decoration in the shape of a ship made of gilded silver or modern substitute. Small ornaments dangling down from both ends of sarempak are called garigai. Next is the brightly colored satiny blouse usually in yellow. The flared sleeves show the cuffs of an underblouse in contrasting hue.
Mock wedding of Bajau people
Shining metallic accessories complement their traditional costume really well. Bajau women covers the front from below the neck to waist with beautiful mandapun, a flat collar-ornament accentuating the neckline decorated with stylized leaves in silver, goldleaf or substitute. To add more colours, long and wide band of linangkit embroidered panels (berangkit in Bajau) are sewn into their long black wrap-skirt.
Bajau men wear the traditional headgear called kain dastar, which is also used in women skirt. See more their vibrant culture in Tamu Besar Festival which is normally held in October in Kota Belud town. They even dress up their horses!
6. Kadazan Papar
I wonder who designed the traditional costume of Kadazan Papar. It’s so cute and “flowerish”. The lovely girl costume looks neat and modern. Kadazan Papar women wear a short jacket with gold or silver buttons over a white blouse, and their knee-length black skirt is decorated with a horizontal and vertical cross-stitched panel lined with gold thread. Gold or silver trimming is used on the seams.
Kadazan Papar couple
The mini conical hat is made of fine bamboo strips and features coloured feather-down or artificial flowers at the top to show the wearer’s marital status. Feather-down for the single lady and flowers for the married woman. Another hint is the silver belt (antique British trade dollar), unmarried ladies wear four and married wear two.
The flowers of Kadazan Papar
If no feather or flower, the woman is widowed, grandmothers or elderly ladies then.
7. Dusun Tindal
Influenced by culture of Bajau Sama in the same district, Dusun Tindal is also the most colourful Kadazandusun sub-ethnic group. Just look at the girl costume, 3-colour slashed and flared sleeves from the elbows, rainbow-like beads girdle around the hips, and also embroider on their arms and hem of the skirt. To add more colours, in formal occasion they also carry sunduk, a multi-color hood with embroidered border.
Dusun Tindal people from Kota Belud
On top of colours is extensive use of metallic elements: line and line of gold or silver trimmings and sequins are sewn into their blouse and skirt, two to four Himpogot (or Simpogot) silver-dollar chain belts on the waist, one or more of kuapu (a round embossed silver tobacco container made by the Bruneis) are worn around the neck on a silver chain.
Close up of Dusun Tindal girl dress
Dusun Tindal has brought the creativity of native fashion to the next level. You would be surprised that Dusun Tindal extracts fibre from a wild banana or pisang lanut (Musa textilis) which is processed into a coarse yarn for weaving their skirts, jackets and headwear.
8. Sea Bajau
While Bajau Sama in West Coast of Sabah has the best horse-riding skill, Sea Bajau (or Suluk) in East Coast is an expert of seafaring. Also known as the Sea Gypsies, Sea Bajau spent most of their time on the boat and sailed around the sea of South East Asia. Now they are not as nomadic and many have called Sabah their homeland.
Sea Bajau girls in Lepa-Lepa boat
Similar to Bajau Sama, Sea Bajau is also a fan of bright colours. Their dresses are almost fully covered with colourful patterns, and gold / silver trimmings, sequins and embroidery. Sea Bajau dancers wear long gold or silver fingercovers, to show their fingers dance.
Sea Bajau girl dancer
Backed by beating of drum and kulintangan (small brass gong) music, the dance of Sea Bajau is one of the most mesmerizing in Borneo. They shake and move every part of their bodies, combine with rich facial expression to dazzle you, even to a seductive level. To see more of Sea Bajau, don’t miss the Lepa-Lepa Festival in April every year in Semporna.
The traditional costume of Sea Bajau is really fancy and shout “Look at me! Look at me!”
9. Dusun Lebou
Dusun Lebou (or Lobu) is a sub-ethnic of Kadazandusun lives in Sook (in Keningau district of Sabah interior). Their big woven cloth (called Binaduan) takes a month to weave and consists of different Rungus motifs and even some Dayak motifs from the southern part of Borneo. The complete costume is 2 pieces of woven Binaduan sewn together to create the front and back covers. Binaduan is used in skirt too.
Dusun Lebou girls from Sook
The size, design and complexity of Binaduan is simply astonishing. Men’s costume has a finer motif called Inambau. Unfortunately, the last person who knows how to weave Inambau has passed away. The traditional costume of Dusun Lebou is complex and special, but this art can go extinct.
Binaduan cloth of Dusun Lebou
In old days, married woman with child was not allowed to be a Binaduan weaver. The story was:- a mother was too engrossed with weaving Binaduan from morning until night that she accidentally starved her baby. Devastated, she forbade any married woman to weave Binaduan. The ban was lifted later so more people can pass on this heritage.
Back view of Binaduan is as beautiful as butterfly wings
10. Lundayeh
Most Sabah Lundayeh lives in Sipitang, Tenom and Long Pasia. Different to other groups who mostly use black as main colour, white blouse and black skirt are the signature wear of Lundayeh ladies. Lundayeh men wear jackets made of tree barks called kuyu talun.
Smile of Lundayeh girls, so sweet. Marry one?
Traditional costume of Lundayeh people is simple, but sharp and catchy
Bead cap made entirely of beads (it can be glass, carnelian and other materials) is worn by every Lundayeh woman. In the past, only upper class ladies could wear bead cap. Other key accessories are multi-strand necklaces, silver waist belts, and colourful bead girdle wrap around the hip. Overall it’s a very clean and stylish traditional costume.
Cute Lundayeh flower girls in Sipitang
That’s all! Have you seen other beautiful costumes that desire to be featured here? What’s your top 10 list? Please share it in comment section below.
Now you can see that Sabahans are totally different breed of Malaysians. Put all 200 traditional costumes together and we can make a Sabah version of Wakanda movie.
Sabah has enough beautiful costumes to film Wakanda. Sakanda anyone?
To learn more about traditional costumes of Sabah, you may visit Chanteek Borneo Indigenous Museum in Tamparuli, which showcases wide array of costume dolls, and it is awarded the title “The First Miniature Indigenous Museum” in the country by Malaysia Book of Records. Want to rent a traditional costume? You can browse Sabah Cultural Board website.
Reference Books
“An Introduction to the Traditional Costumes of Sabah” – January 1, 1997, by Rita Lasimbang and Stella Moo-Tan
“The Beliefs and Practices of the Kadazandusun-Murut Natives of Sabah” – 2017, by John Seet
Mount Kinabalu is not the only mountain in Kinabalu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This highest mountain of Malaysia has many “sibling” mountains, for example, Mount Tambuyukon (2,642 Metres, 3rd highest mountain in Malaysia), Mount Nombuyukong (1,604 Metres).
Mount Nopungguk is only 1/3 the height of Mount Kinabalu. Nopungguk means “Chopped” in local word.Normally climbers take about 3 hours to reach the peak of Mount Nopungguk
Mount Nopungguk (1,430 Metres or 4,692 Feet) is only about 1/3 the height of Mt. Kinabalu (4,096 Metres). It’s part of Kinabalu Park so climbers need to apply a permit and hire a park guide to enter. The climb is not overly challenging and a taste of botanical tour in this UNESCO site already makes your trip worthwhile. More than 1,000 climbers have climbed Mount Nopungguk. I’m one of them.
The climb usually starts very early in the morning.
The climbing trip is easy to arrange. I stayed one night in Nopungguk Homestay in Kampung Gansurai (Village) of Kota Belud, the starting point of the climb. Next morning around 6am, we gathered for a short briefing by the guide. The mountain guides with us were Disiol Egong, Nickalso Sabin, and David Summoring. Without them, we could lose our way easily in the forest.
Mount Nopungguk is also part of Kinabalu Park, UNESCO World Heritage SiteClose-up view of Mount Kinabalu on Mount Nopungguk
A height of 1,430 Metres may sound too much to beginners. But our starting point is 400 Metres above sea level, so we actually needed to climb up about 1,030M more Metres. Hiking one KM of hilly path to move up is tiring, but not too bad if we go slow. All of us made it to the top.
Taking a rest. The village dog only followed us until this point.
The trail to the summit of Mount Nopungguk is about 6 Kilometres (3.7 Miles) in distance and would take 2 to 3 hours, depends on your fitness. At first we walked in the wood of countryside. The trees got denser and we were moving quietly in the dark. The first 3 KM is quite ok. We passed by Mirolian Stone and Rafflesia Park but didn’t stop to look around because it was still dark. Then we reached the shelter and campsite named Posiduan.
Loop Trail to the summit of Mount NopunggukBeautiful green fruits but inedible due to its bad taste.Hut and campsite on Mount Nopungguk
After short break, we moved on to the steep trails ahead. The steepest section is Purak Pakou trail, which is literally translated as “white buttock trail”. Why? Because in old days, women wore sarong skirt but no underwear inside. When they walked up to the steep slope, the people behind them could see their butt, like what happens to mini-skirt girl who uses escalator lol.
Purak Pakou Trail is the steepest section of the climbHuge boulder that looks like blue whale
By 8:40am, most of us have reached the peak of Mount Nopungguk and enjoyed the magnificent view of Mt. Kinabalu up-close. It’s a long climb but quite manageable. I would rate the climb as medium in difficulty. The trail could be very slippery after rain. The lurking blood sucking leeches are also a nuisance (can block them with anti-leech socks). The good thing was we were walking in a forested mountain so the tree shade protected us from heat.
Mount Nopungguk is 1,430 Metres (4,692 Feet) in height
After reaching the peak and take some photographs, we will descend via another trail, where we can visit the waterfall and cave on the way back. However, I was descending in the same path where I climbed up, because we have sent one photographer to take photos in another trail.
Mirolian Stone and Rafflesia Park
As more light coming, we explored the attractions such as Mirolian Stone, which is a big three tiers granite boulders. There is a small cave under the rock with a flat stone that looks like a coffin, and hence its name Coffin Cave (Gua Keranda).
Mirolian Stone (Batu Besar Bertingkat)The small cave under Mirolian StoneThe coffin rock inside Gua Keranda caveHundred-year-old tree
The adjacent Rafflesia Park is famous for its Rafflesia keithii, the biggest flower of Sabah and Rhizanthes lowii, another type of corpse flower under same family. However, their blooming flower lasts less than a week so sighting is rare. There are some wild orchid and hundred-year-old tall rainforest trees around.
Titanic Stone that never sinks.
You can play Titanic with your other half with Titanic Stone, which looks like a sinking ship.
Then I saw the freaking giant Lingzhi, the biggest mushroom that I’ve ever see. In Chinese Kungfu drama, I always hear the legend that thousand-year-old Lingzhi is a super herb that can cure any serious illness and even revive the death. According to a lingzhi expert I know, he says lingzhi is not the older the better. Usually 10 years old lingzhi has the best medical properties.
Giant Lingzhi
When morning light hit these lingzhi, I noticed that they were smoking. It’s spore dispersal that releases millions of seeds (spores) to the wild. Awesome!
Pretending to eat the Lingzhi LOL
Besides these amazing nature wonders, visitors can see Goniothalamus Ridleyi tree (pokok tuhub), Panaradan Waterfall, Gua Kinoulawon (cave), and big snake vine in another trail that I didn’t visit. May be next time then.
Pogianadan granite boulder
Itinerary
The following is the standard time table for the climb. If you want to see sunrise on the peak, you would have to move as early as 2am.
4:20am
Gather for briefing at Nopungguk Homestay (Starting Point)
5:00am
Start hiking
6:00am
Reach Mirolian Stone & Rafflesia Park / Mirolian Hut Titanic Stone, Gua Kelawar, Gua Keranda, Batu Bertingkat (Mirolian Stone), Lingzhi, rafflesia
6:30am
Hike to the summit of Mount Nopungguk
8:30am
Reach the peak of Mount Nopungguk
10:00am
Head back to starting point (via different trail)
1:00pm
Reach Panaradan Waterfall *lunch & swimming
2:20pm
Reach Gua Kinoulawon (Cave)
3:10pm
Reach Nopungguk Homestay
3:30pm
High tea at homestay
4:00pm
Certificate presentation
4:20pm
Go home
Note: Only a maximum of 20 hikers per day can climb Mt. Nopungguk, to minimize the impact to the environment
Titanic Stone
Where to Stay
To start climbing very early in the morning, you are advised to overnight in Kota Belud. Nopungguk Homestay should be your first choice because it’s the starting point and they can get a permit and guide for your climb. This homestay has 18 rooms (dormitory beds and standard rooms) and about 84 KM (52 Miles) away from Kota Kinabalu City.
Bukit Bongol (Bongol Hill) is such a photogenic but odd hill. It’s bald and covered by green grasses, like a mountain wearing green fleece. Its name Bongol is originated from the Malay word “Bonggol”, which means Hump, as this hill is characterized by multi-peak landscape. I have to say Bukit Bongol is one of the most beautiful and unique hills of Sabah.
It’s me (in red shirt) flying drone on the highest peak of Bukit Bongol
With a height of 527 Meters (1,730 feet), this midsize hill only needs two hours to conquer and no guide is required. When I was on its top, I wanted to sing The Sound of Music because it reminded me of that musical movie. Sorry, can’t help it. LOL
There are 3 starting points to climb Bukit Bongol (More on this later). Last week I started my climb at 6:16am via Mandap-Dohubang Trail (Mandap Trail in short) in Kampung Mandap Doluoh of Kota Belud because it’s the shortest route (2.5 KM or 1.55 Mile one way) which takes about 90 minutes to go up. There are only 4 peaks (see picture below) to cover.
Route to the highest peak of Bukit Bongol via Mandap trailToilet at starting pointStarting point to climb Bukit Bongol (Bongol Hill)
The starting point is 88 Meter (290 feet) above sea level. Since there is only ONE toilet around, better do your business before the climb.
Trail in dense wood
The trail starts with dense forest and steep slopes in foothill. In first hour, the slopes are 40 to 60 degree angle of inclination, luckily there are rope support in most challenging sections. I followed the beaten track (or well-trodden path) created by hikers.
Rope support to climb the steep section
Though it is morning and I walk under tree shade, I still sweat profusely. I cross a few dry streams and try to catch my breath if I come to flat surface. It is a lively forest echoed with call of various birds and noisy cicada.
Fern path in high ground
On the way up you will pass-by the signage of Guung, D’Lugas, Poturidong and Kodompulan Trail after 5, 28, 45 and 60 minutes respectively. The most difficult climb is over after you come to an opening and enter the fern path around Kodompulan signage. Very soon you will reach a ridge and second peak (Minonggui Hill) is only 15 minutes away. The breeze in high ground cools off my body.
The signages of Guung, D’Lugas, Poturidong and Kodompulan Trail.The “Boobs” hills are the peaks of Bukit Bongol
On the ridge is mostly gradual slope of 20 to 40 degree gradient. The grass almost reaches my waist. There are some trees grow sparsely on the hill. Their crowns appear to be denser at one side, as if they are all pointing at the same direction. Not sure if this is caused by wind or sunlight.
One side of every tree has denser leaves and all seem to point to one direction.After this checkpoint you will walk on the ridge of Bukit BongolReaching Minonggui Hill, but this is not the highest peakCongratulating signage on Minonggui Hill
On the way I saw Brown Barbet (an endemic Borneo bird), 1-inch giant forest ants (species: Camponotus gigas), grumpy White-breasted Woodswallow, and a few black squirrels. The most common flower is the pink Melastoma flower (Local Name: Senduduk), its leaves and shoots can cure diarrhea and root can relieve toothache.
Pink Melastoma (Senduduk) flower and poo from unknown animalBest view of Mount Kinabalu on Bukit Bongol (Minonggui Hill)
About 7am, I arrived second peak (Minonggui Hill) at 494M (1,620 Feet). This peak has the BEST view so I spend the most time taking photos there. FYI, the view of green Bukit Bongol with Mount Kinabalu behind is stunning, but you need to reach here latest by 9am, before Mount Kinabalu hidden in cloud.
Climber on the way to the highest peakClimber is only 150 Meters away from the highest peak
After taking hundreds of photos, I continue to 4th peak, the highest peak of Bukit Bongol (Height: 527M or 1,730 feet), where you can see the whole Bukit Bongol and Mount Kinabalu. Too bad no summit signage to congratulate my conquer.
View of Mount Kinabalu from the highest point of Bukit Bongol
Kota Belud is the cowboy town of Sabah. I’ve never seen so many grasses in my life, enough for all the horses there to eat until they puke. Anyway, Bukit Bongol turned a bit yellowish due to drought, and a few peaks was burnt by forest fire.
Another less common name of Bukit Bongol is Bukit Nuluhan Minonggui
Overall, it’s a delightful trip. I turn back and return to starting point by 11:24am.
Comparison of 3 Starting Points
There are three places where you can start the climb. Which one is the best? In general, if you prefer the shortest route and ok with challenging trail, use Mandap-Dohubang Trail. But if you are keen to go slow with the easiest route, go for Pirasan Trail. Kinasaraban Trail is something in between these two and a popular choice too.
Three starting points to Bukit Bongol: (1) Mandap, (2) Pirasan and (3) Kinasaraban Trails
1. Mandap-Dohubang Trail (Mandap Trail)
GPS Coordinates: 6.315329, 116.398109 (see Location Map) Mandap Trail is 2.5 KM (1.55 Mile) one way and takes about 90 minutes to reach the summit. I carried over 8Kg of photography and climb like a pregnant woman. For those who are fit and pack light, you might need only an hour. The advantage is you climb in shade half of the time.
You can check out my 6-minute walk-through video below for a virtual tour:
2. Pirasan Trail
GPS Coordinates: 6.312051, 116.431844 (see Location Map) Pirasan Trail is the longest but easiest route. It is nearly 4 KM (2.5 Mile) one way, which takes 2.5 hours. You would walk under hot sun in return trip though. The route covers about 10 peaks. This way passes through more vegetation, so you see more variety of flowers and plant.
Starting point of Pirasan Trail to Bukit BongolPirasan Trail is freaking far to walk to the summit of Bukit BongolPirasan Trail is the least challenging but the longest trailGroup photo in a misty day on Bukit Bongol
Video walk-through below:
There used to be a D’Hobbit Cafe at this starting point, but now it’s no longer in business (as of Feb 2020). The gate to this cafe is closed too (so is its toilet), so you have to park your car outside.
3. Kinasaraban Trail
GPS Coordinates: 6.332075, 116.403991 (see Location Map) (Waze’s Where to Keyword: Bangunan Pendaftaran Hikers Bukit Bonggol) Kinasaraban Trail is about 3KM (1.86 Mile) one way, which takes about 2 hours. Though longer than Mandap Trail, it is not as steep. In short, it’s more relax than Mandap and shorter than Pirasan.
Video walk-through below (in Malay language):
Fee
All starting points ask for an entrance fee of about MYR2-3 per adult or MYR1-2 per child. Please support. But sometimes no villager is there to collect.
Safety and Things to Bring
You don’t need any guide to climb Bukit Bongol but please avoid climbing alone. Going with group of friends is more fun too. The following are some advice:
Aerial view of whole Bukit Bongol
Bee and Wasp
Many bees are present along the trail, but they only mind their own business. They only sting to defend. However, these bees love salt. Your sweat will attract them to land on your skin to sip. Do NOT squish them! The solution is to wear long sleeve and pant to cover your skin. Another problem is the hard-to-spot wasp nest in the shrub. If you are allergy to bee venom, do bring medicine that prevents anaphylactic shock.
Foothill of Bukit Bongol is dense forest
Heat
There are not many tree for shade on the hill, so you would be vulnerable to heatstroke in sunny day. Wear sunblock lotion and bring at least 1.2 Litre of drinking water. Sunhat or umbrella is a great protection too. Try to climb in early morning when it is cooling.
Panoramic view of Kota Belud plain
Trail Condition
Bukit Bongol is not a tourist-friendly destination. The trail can be very slippery after rain. Wear suitable hiking shoes such as Adidas Kampung. If you have tender skin, you need gloves for using ropes (in Mandap). Moreover, don’t step on the dry leaves when you descend, you would slip on them like banana peel.
Other useful things to bring: raincoat, hiking pole, sunglasses, phone, tissue paper, face towel.
How to get there
All starting points are accessible with sedan by paved road (and partially gravel road). You need to drive about 1.5 hours from Kota Kinabalu City to the starting points above near Kota Belud. Mobile apps such as Waze and Google Map can help you to find these places easily. Happy Climbing and Stay Safe!
Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
If there is a Most Scenic Campsite award of Sabah, I’ll not hesitate to present it to Tegudon Tourism Village (TTV) in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia. TTV is a campground with countryside theme. Every morning campers are greeted by Mount Kinabalu, the highest mountain of Malaysia. In the afternoon, you can swim with the fishes in the cooling river nearby. And the sunset over lush paddy field is a sight to behold. At night, you can sleep under the Milky Way.
Beautiful scenery of Tegudon Tourism Village
Countryside Theme
In native language (Dusun Tindal), Tegudon means snare trap. The super kampung (village) view of Tegudon Tourism Village consists of paddy field, mountain, hill, river, forest, waterfall, hanging bridge and starry night, the most complete features not found elsewhere.
Kota Belud is the rice bowl of Sabah
The “Village” is a riverside camping area with 9 wooden huts and a camping ground next to a river and paddy field, which is green in the months of January, February, August and September (subject to change), but still Insta-worthy when it is golden color in other time.
Mount Kinabalu and paddy field
In the morning, you would see local farmers carry basket and walk on the 150-Meter-long wobbly hanging bridge to their paddy field. Sometimes cows and buffalo passby the village and chirping free-range chicken forage outside your camp. All these little things reminds you that you are in a village.
Morning view of Tegudon Tourism VillageRiver and Tegudon Tourism Village (in background)Children playing with bamboo raft
Though Sabah has warm climate, our river is always cooling, even in hot day. You don’t need to worry about utility bill, just jump into the Tondidigon River there to enjoy the unlimited clean water. This river is a tagal (no fishing) zone to conserve native freshwater fish species such as Pelian. Fyi, you can rent a kayak (MYR20/Hour) or tube float for more fun.
Starry night at Tegudon Tourism Village
The 2-minute video below gives you an overview of Tegudon (my first 4K video!):
Bukit Bendera (Flag Hill)
Blue Mountain is famous in Australia. Our Mount Kinabalu is an enormous blue mountain too. Tegudon is one of the best spots to see Mt. Kinabalu up-close because Kota Belud is the ancient gateway to Mt. Kinabalu.
Hiking to Bukit Bendera (Flag Hill)
Mount Kinabalu is such a prominent landscape. Any photo with it as background will look great, so I want to photograph her in different spots for some fresh angles. From the photos online, I know the peak of Bukit Bendera (literally means Flag Hill) near Tegudon has one of the most beautiful but less-seen view of Mt. Kinabalu.
Found these beautiful rubber tree seeds on the way. It brings back my childhood memory.
Normally the best time to see Mount Kinabalu is in early morning, before she is hidden in cloud after 8am, so I decided to start climbing as early as possible. Tegudon Tourism Village arranged a friendly guide, Matthew, to accompany me, because there is no signage or marker to show the way.
On the peak of Bukit Bendera (peak marker at the right)
We started hiking at 6:30am, shortly after the sunrise. We passed through paddy field, forest, rubber plantation, and a few streams. In the beginning the trail is quite flat and under tree shade. They advise to start hiking before 8:30am to avoid the hot sun.
Aerial view of Bukit Bendera
When we were getting near to the peak, we came to an open space with panoramic view of hills and grassland. The last 1 km is a few 25 inclination slopes and mostly gravel road dotted with rocks that have glittering silica grains on them.
Mount Kinabalu behind the hills near Bukit Bendera
We reached the peak of Bukit Bendera by 7:48am. The height of Bukit Bendera is about 960 feet (293 Meters). It’s not very challenging and no climbing is required. We were very lucky that day, the sky was so clear that Mt. Kinabalu could be seen clearly until 10am. The scenery of Mt. Kinabalu with rolling green hills in front is breathtaking. Matthew was apologetic for some burn marks on the hill caused by forest fire in drought. It’s ok bro.
Wasai Waterfall
After taking some photos on Bukit Bendera, we continued to walk to Wasai Waterfall, which is only a Kilometre away and mostly descending route with a few steep sections that need rope support.
Walking to Wasai Waterfall
We arrived Wasai Waterfall after 45 minutes. Another group of visitors also joined us 20 minutes later. A few of them were wearing short and slippers, I’m trying to say the hike is not difficult.
Morning view of Wasai Waterfall
The deepest part of waterfall pond is about 7 to 8 feet deep. The water is clean and clear, safe for a swim. I sat on a rock, admiring the look of sun-ray beaming into the water. After some rest, we return to the camp before noon.
Wasai Waterfall
The guide fee is MYR50 for a 1 to 5 people group (Route: Tegudon Camp ? Bukit Bendera ? Wasai Waterfall ? Tegudon Camp). They say the loop trail is 12 Kilometres in distance. If you trust my experience, the round trip to Bukit Bendera and Wasai Waterfall is no more than 8 KM.
Morning sun-ray beams through the clear water of Wasai Waterfall
Camping & Hut
TTV can accommodate up to 100 campers at a time (fit 50 people comfortably). To camp in Tegudon Tourism Village, you can choose to stay in camping tent or wooden hut. The rental fee for hut is MYR15 per day, and the check-in/out time is 5:00pm. Currently 9 huts are available, and more are under construction.
Camping ground of Tegudon Tourism Village
If you don’t bring your own camping tent, you can rent one at TTV with the following size and rates: 2 people = MYR20 3 people = MYR30 4 people = MYR35 6 people = MYR40 The entrance fee is MYR3 (Malaysian Adult), MYR1 (Malaysian Kid (7-12 years)), MYR7 (Non-Malaysian Adult) or MYR3 (Non-Malaysian Kid) per person. Overnight camping fee is MYR7 (Malaysian Adult), MYR3 (Malaysian Kid (13-18 years)), MYR13 (Non-Malaysian Adult) or MYR7 (Non-Malaysian Kid (7-12 years)) per person. Please visit their Facebook for most updated and complete prices.
External and inside views of the hut
I prefer hut because I need a lot of space for photography equipment. And it is very tiring for me to keep crawling in and out small camping tent to take my camera. The floor of the hut is a bit dusty so you better bring a mat.
The hut is about 10×7 feet in space. It has a long bench (too narrow to sleep on), a fluorescent lamp and a power point to charge your phone and power bank. You can bring a multi-plug so you can charge more than one electronic device at a time.
One power point is available in the hut
The hut is unfurnished, but they are kind to provide me a plastic chair and desk. There are staffs on duty between 8am to 5pm in the camp if you need anything. If you stay in hut, you better buy some mosquito coils (and lighter) from them before night, for a good sleep.
Farmer crossing bridge to paddy field in the morning
During my stay, it was very cooling and windy at night due to Northeast Monsoon. I couldn’t believe I was shivering. Therefore, you better bring some warm clothing just in case. Anyway, my wooden hut was sturdy against strong wind, I didn’t feel any shake.
Meals
If you don’t want to cook and plan to BBQ, you can request TTV to provide food (need to book in advance). I must say their food is underrated, and I was so looking forward to every meal.
Yummy meal provided by Tegudon Tourism Village
The menu may vary. Usually breakfast consists of fried noodle, boiled egg, Milo (chocolate hot drink), hot water in thermos flask and some snacks such as donuts and bun. For lunch and dinner, normally it’s white rice, 2 vegetables, 1 meat/fish dish, soup, and a 500-ML bottle of drinking water. The serving is quite big portion.
Rice wrapped in big leaf (called Linopot)
The dishes are same as what the locals eat, very balance diet. I’m happy to avoid high fat and sugar food. The white rice is SOooooo good! The cook says it is from that paddy field next door and would be more aromatic if it’s freshly harvested. It’s available for sale there too.
BBQ pit
Below is the prices and meal times (rates as of Mar 2020):
Breakfast: MYR7 (6:45am)
Lunch: MYR12 (12:30pm)
Dinner: MYR12 (6:30pm)
Amenities
There are shared toilet and bathroom (with male / female sections) in campsite. Sorry no water heater. You would dance a bit if you are not used to cold shower.
Toilet and bathroom
You can buy some common items in the sundry shop of TTV, for example, drinking water, cold carbonated drink, cookies, instant noodle, 3-in-1 instant drink, soap, detergent, tooth paste, cooking oil, tomato / soya sauce, and mosquito coil, at reasonable price. I can’t find any beer though.
Sundry shop of Tegudon Tourism Village and the things they sell.
So basically you can just go to TTV without bringing anything except clothing, sleeping bag and some toiletries. You can buy and rent almost everything you need there, before the sundry shop there closes at 5pm.
How to Get there
You can book everything with them via Facebook Messenger. They usually can confirm within an hour. They can understand and reply in English. Below are their contact:
You can have different view of Mount Kinabalu at TTV
Driving to this campsite from Kota Kinabalu city takes about 2 hours (for 80 KM). You can get there easily by using mobile apps such as Waze or Google Map (search for Tegudon Tourism Village). The road is paved and in good condition. You also can park next to your camp / hut.
Things to Bring
Clothing
Sleeping bag
Swim wear
Jacket
Towel
Toiletries: soap, tooth brush, tooth paste, tissue paper / toilet roll
Drinking water
Flashlight
Sunblock lotion
Insect repellent
Mosquito coin and lighter
Sandal / Slipper
Raincoat / Umbrella
Power bank and Charger
Optional:
Dry Bag
Multi-plug
Food
Snacks and Energy Bars
Spoon, Fork, Lunch Box, Cup
Pen & notepad
Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
“Hey, do you know where to see meteor? I want to make wishes.” At first I was dumbfounded at her question, then I realized that there is no more starry sky in our city. “Lasau Podi,” I replied, “the sky over there is full of stars and it got so many meteors that you can make wishes all night long. Probably next day you would become the prettiest, richest and healthiest person in the world, if these are what you will wish.”
This photo generates a lot of interest in stargazing.
Sky filled with twinkling stars was used to be a everyday thing at my home decades ago. Sadly, due to increasing light and air pollution, one-third of world population can’t see the Milky Way. The night of modern cities such as Singapore and South Korea is vibrant with colorful neon lights, but they have no more scattered diamond dust in the sky. Now children would sing “Twinkle, twinkle, little star… I wonder where you are..”
The Milky Way contains between 100 and 400 billion stars
Stargazing at Lasau Podi
Lasau Podi is discovered by Sabah Stargazers as an excellent location for stargazing. It’s a countryside about 20 KM away from Kota Belud town, and the approximate location where I shot the stars is 6.359675, 116.559431 (see Location Map). 95% of the road from Kota Kinabalu City (KK) to Lasau Podi is paved so it’s very accessible.
Mt. Kinabalu under the stars
Last month I was drooling when my friend showed me the stunning photos of Milky Way that he took in Lasau Podi, so a BIG Yes to him when he asked if I wanted to join him in second trip. We departed at 8pm from KK. After we passed by Kota Belud town and headed to Lasau Podi, we entered the countryside without street light along the road. Our car bumped into herds of cows sleeping on the road. Drive carefully if you go there.
Herd of cows blocking our road
We reached the destination around 11pm, I was mesmerized by the breathtaking view of starry sky, with silhouette of Mount Kinabalu as the backdrop. The number of stars that you can see on a clear night in a total darkness is about 2,000, and I think I saw them all there.
When we got out of our car and saw the starry sky, we went gaga.
After we setup the camping tent, we shot until 4am in the morning. I slept under a blanket of thousands of stars, lovely, but I was also attacked by thousand of mosquitoes.
5-Star Hotel and Thousand-Star Camp, which one you prefer?
Did you know when we look up to the winking stars, we are looking at a scene of the past? Light from a distant star can travel millions of years to reach us, it may be long gone by the time we see it.
Mount Kinabalu in the morning
Second photography session to capture the sunrise view of Mt. Kinabalu
When we waked up in the morning, we could see our surrounding better. We were on a high ground overlooking a plain with Mt. Kinabalu far away. It’s a scenic dawn.
Sunrise lit up part of the hill
Despite sleeping for only 2 hours, we took out our tripod and camera again for second round of crazy clicking. We bagged more beautiful photos, tired but happy.
The misty plain of Lasau Podi in the morning
Anyway, Lasau Podi isn’t a romantic location for dating. There is no toilet and comfortable accommodation. Instead, you can try Tegudon Tourism Village (TTV), which is only 30 minutes away from Lasau Podi and have toilet, camping ground and amenities for visitors.
Behind the Scene (in Lasau Podi): it’s quite a mess lol
Guys slept in open space. It’s me at lower left. I covered my head because of mosquitoes lol
Without any accommodation nearby, camping is the only option at Lasau Podi
Best Locations for Stargazing in Sabah
In Sabah, as long as you are in a countryside far away from city light and air pollution, you will see starry sky. Your best bet is at the beaches and open fields which has nothing that obstructs the star views at the horizon.
I also saw a lot of stars in Kuala Penyu, Beaufort, Keningau, etc.
What’s Milky Way?
Guess you enjoy the movie “Guardian of the Galaxy”? But what does a galaxy look like? You would notice the “star river” in my star photos. It is Milky Way, the galaxy that contains our Solar System (where we live). Below is the disk-shaped structure of Milky Way.
Side view of our galaxy (Milky Way)
The following is the top view of Milky Way, it contains between 100 and 400 billion stars and probably at least 100 billion planets!
Illustration of our galaxy. Note the location of our sun and planets.
To know the culture and lifetstyle of locals, the best way is to visit their market. Tamu (means “Meeting”) is a traditional open-air market of Sabah. In the old days, there was no supermarket and shopping malls, so farmers, fishermen and hawkers would gather weekly at tamu to exchange their goods by bartering. Tamu is also a social gathering place where villagers exchange news and gossip. The tamu of Kota Belud town is the biggest and the most famous native market among tourists.
Kota Belud is 75 KM north of Kota Kinabalu city. To go to Tamu of Kota Belud, which is open on every Sunday from 6am to 2pm, you only need to drive about 1 hour on the sealed road. Along the way, you would see lush paddy fields and Mt. Kinabalu, the highest mountain of Malaysia and Borneo.
The tamu becomes the busiest spot of Kota Belud in Sunday morning, so it is a bit hard to find parking space. Tamu trade is carried out under the tree shade, so you will see some big trees around.
Once you walk into tamu, you will smell a mixture of different scents like wet market. I love to experience the atmosphere here. Though it is a busy market, everyone is really relax. You can mingle with the friendly locals, and soon you will feel that you are part of tamu. That’s why my late grandmother always hanged around in tamu every week. The people here are very used to tourists.
The Tamu is more than an open market, besides local produces such as fruits & vegetables and fishes, you can find all sorts of local and imported goods, from clothing, handbags, baskets, handicraft, tobacco, traditional herb, food, snacks, wild honey, electronics, toy, and more. I saw many interesting and weird stuffs for sale too.
Food & Snacks
If you plan to tour around Tamu, I advise you not to take heavy breakfast. There are rich variety of local food and snacks for you to shop and try.
Pic: this wrapped food attracts a lot of honey bees. Out of curiosity, I bought one for only RM0.50 (?USD0.16).
Pic: It is Tapai Rice, a sweet rice with strong aroma of local rice wine.
Pic: Pinjaram (a.k.a. UFO Cake), a local sweet dessert with chewy texture, best served with hot coffee. Pinjaram comes with two flavors, i.e., Palm Sugar (brown) and Pandan spice (green).
Pic: this is Kuih Cincin (means “Ring Biscuit”), a famous snack that has crunchy coating, with soft and sweet content inside (taste like chocolate). Only RM2.00 (?USD0.67) per pack.
Pic: you can wear the biscuit if you don’t want to eat it LOL.
Pic: Check out this huge Tapioca Cracker (Keropok Ubi Kayu)! A pack of two costs RM2.50 (?USD0.83). It has 2 flavors, the dark one is spicy.
This big cracker is too fragile to bring home overseas, so you have to try it in Sabah.
There are 20 or 30 more food items and I can’t introduce them all here. But you can see them in my 4-min video below:
Colorful Handicraft
Bajau people of Kota Belud are famous for their colorful culture. They love bright colors such as red, yellow and green, and this is reflected in their handicraft.
You will be impressed by a lot of big and small handicraft items in Tamu. I saw most tourists were not empty-handed after a visit to Tamu. Shopping for traditional handicraft in this traditional market is more fun than buying it from souvenir shops in city. Don’t forget to bargain though.
Pic: colorful handmade baskets of Bajau
Another great item to check out is hand-crafted Bajau machete (Parang in local language), which is created by traditional method.
Good parang can cost over RM100 (?USD33) each. Anyway, you can negotiate for lower price with the sellers. They expect you to ask for discount too.
Then I saw a booth selling “magic sticks” (Kayu Thas and Petunduk). The seller claimed that these sticks have spiritual power, just to list a few:
Chase away aggressive animals and bad spirit.
Prevent thief to break into your house.
Turning naughty kid into nice kid.
Bring prosperity to your business.
Cure various sickness.
Keep a small piece in your bag and the snatch thief won’t target you.
Wow, it can do almost everything. For only RM7 (?USD2.33), this “magic wand” is really cheap, haha. He said you couldn’t use it as a fishing rod, or you would catch no fish.
Seafood
There are plenty of fresh and dried seafood too. This tamu is quite well-organized, as stalls that sell similar items are grouped together.
Pic: Horse shoe crab, yes, it’s edible.
Pic: seaweed from clean sea water. It’s rich in collagen. You can add some lime juice and eat it raw.
Pic: Dried seafood (anchovy fish and shrimp) and salty fishes are popular buy of Asian tourists.
Pic: At first I thought these fishes were covered in soil. Actually they are seasoned with a fruit paste made of Buah Keluak (note the fruit at bottom).
Bajau and Tamu Besar Festival
Majority of population in Kota Belud is Bajau, who is also known as Cowboy of the East, due to their excellent horse-riding skill. The best time to appreciate their rich culture is in annual Tamu Besar (Big Tamu Festival).
Bajau is also good at riding buffalo, which is more challenging.
They even dress up their horses and ponies in this yearly event. Tourists can take a short ride on these ponies for a fee (about RM10?USD3.33).
The Tamu Besar will be tentatively held on 26 and 27 October this year (2013). You may check out the calendar of Sabah Tourism website for latest update.
