Tag Archives: Kota Belud

Tamu, the traditional market of Sabah

If you want to travel smart in Sabah, do not miss Tamu, the weekly (sometimes twice or thrice weekly) open-air native market in outskirts of Sabah. It’ll feel like a food and treasure hunting tour.

The beautiful tamu market of Tenom town. It’s just behind the central market in town centre.

The name tamu derives from the Malay word bertemu which means ‘to meet’ and it has been a place of congregation for farmers, fishermen, craftsman and traders for over 145 years. In old days there was no supermarket, so every districts held a weekly tamu for local villagers to meet, shop, and trade their produces at a designated location.

The colourful tamu of Sabah. Tamu are called differently by different ethnic groups in Sabah. The Dusun and Rungus people call it “Badi” while it is known as “Semio” by the Bajau people in Kota Belud. In the Tuaran district, it’s also called “Buul” for smaller native markets.

History of Tamu

The first tamu of Sabah was started on 13 December 1878 in Kota Belud (Kampung Siasai) by William Pretyman, a political agent of British North Borneo (now Sabah). In his diary, William said the locals from different tribes were so excited to see the first tamu ground in preparation and kept on asking him the opening day of tamu. It’s a huge success as each ethnic group can offer certain goods that others don’t have. For example, a Dusun farmer can sell rice to a Bajau fisherman who would buy or barter trade it with fishes. Merchants from China and Brunei and also sourced many local products from tamu.

Left: the white man is William Pretyman. Look like a smart dude. Right: a photo of Kota Belud in 1940, taken by W.K.C. Wookey (courtesy of The Sabah State Archives). Both photos are from the Facebook of North Borneo Philately

The same goes to fruits & vegetables, traditional herbs, seafood, livestock, bushmeat, beeswax, textile, crafts and wide array of other produces, some carried by villagers walking over 10 KM to the marketplace. British rulers were also happy that different tribes could do business peacefully at tamu though tribal conflicts were common during that time. Brawls and weapons are prohibited in tamu. British officers also used tamu as a place to distribute news. Locals people from different villages mingled and exchanged news at tamu too. Though British had left Sabah in 1963, tamu is still an integral part of rural economy.

Past (1970s) Vs Present Tamu of Kota Belud

Why Tamu is Fun for Tourists

What’s the point of visiting a new place if you don’t experience any cultural shock? Your travel agents always “protect” you from something that you aren’t accustomed to. For example, if you are a European, they will never serve you durian fruit. If you are a Korean tourist, they will make sure that your plate always has Kimchi. You don’t eat and live like a Sabahan.

Tourists shopping at tamu of Keningau (left) and Papar (right) towns

A tamu provides an authentic encounter with the rich cultural, culinary and traditional aspects of the lives of Sabah’s many ethnic groups. The best ways to enjoy a tamu tour are:

Explore some interesting or “weird” items. Feel the sights, sounds and smells of tamu.
Sample local snacks, pastries, cakes, fruits, food and drink.
Interact with the local people. Observe what they do, e.g. chewing betel nuts and carrying stuffs in traditional baskets
Shop for souvenirs, handicrafts, tapestry, trinklets and other handmade crafts.

Vendors of the tamu of Papar, Keningau and Bongawan. The locals could be a bit shy but they are friendly people.

The bonus is you could get something cheaper than normal retail prices, if you are good at haggling. You are helping the small sellers too, like an elder villager or a start-up baker who needs extra income to support their families.

What to Buy

Every tamu are selling different things, based on the composition of local ethnic groups, agriculture and cultures. For example, Kundasang tamu is popular for highland vegetables, and Keningau tamu is the best place to buy hill paddy and cinnamon.

Things to buy or try at tamu. 1. Tarap fruit (seasonal), 2. Chicken tail satay, 3. Salted fishes, 4. Penjaram cake, 5. Latok seaweed (or sea grapes), 6. Fried banana fritters with cheese (pisang goreng cheese)

The following are some good (safe) starters for first-time visitors (Note: some fruits are seasonal):

Cakes and Snacks: pinjaram (UFO cake), pillow crackers, kuih cincin (ring cookie), amplang, kuih jala
Food: satay buntut (chicken tail satay), pisang goreng cheese (cheesy fried banana fritters), Latok (seaweed), nasi kuning (yellow turmeric rice)
Drink: kit chai ping (calamansi juice), air bandung (rose syrup), coconut juice, lihing rice wine
Fruits: tarap, cempedak, pisang emas (golden banana), bread fruit
Others: stingless bee honey, salted seafood (e.g. anchovy, shrimps, ikan liking), parang (machete), T-shirt, handicrafts, hill paddy

From left to right: Butod (sago grubs), Sabah durians (seasonal), Bambangan pickles, Bosou (fermented fishes)

For bold travellers who want some acquired taste, here is a list for your gastronomic adventure:

Butod (sago grub, can be eaten alive)
Tuhau (pickled wild ginger)
Bambangan (preserved wild mango)
Wild durian
Noonsom or Bosou (tangy fermented fish or meat)

Expect to see something unexpected at tamu of Sabah, for examples, 1. Fishes fermented by grounded pangi seeds (look dirty but very delicious actually), 2. Bush meat, 3. Giant toad purse, 4. Magic rocks? 5. Weaver bird nests, 6. Various wood and herbs

Tamu sells mainly locally-grown fruits & vegetables, meat and poultry, fresh and dried seafood, food and snacks, but you still can find almost everything at tamu such as herbs, tobacco rolls, toy, shoes, clothing, flowers, pet, electronics, gadgets, tool kits, kitchenware, jewelry, accessories and imported goods. When there was almost no restriction in the past, I could even find protected wildlife (e.g. slow loris, pangolin, turtle eggs) for sale at tamu.

Best Tamu to Visit

No two tamu are the same. Every tamu is unique and has its own charm. If I must recommend one or two tamu, I will go for tamu of Kota Belud and Donggongon town. I also had a wonderful time at the tamu of Tenom, Tuaran and Keningau.

Tamu of Kota Belud (left) and Donggongon (right)

Kota Belud Tamu is the mother of all tamu. Most of the sellers there are Bajau people, the Cowboys of the East, and they are very skillful in making yummy snacks and colourful handicrafts. Walking around the Kota Belud tamu, you would notice the vibrant colours tudung duang, a popular handicraft made of dried screwpine leaves and used as a food cover. The Bajau is also well-known for making of intricately designed parang (machete).

The best time to visit Kota Belud tamu is during Tamu Besar Kota Belud, an annual cultural carnival in October, with an exciting line-up of activities such as dance performances, cultural shows, traditional games, buffalo races and horse-riding parade.

Tudung duang (left) and machetes (right) made by Bajau people

Only 8.5 KM away from Kota Kinabalu City, Donggongon is an important town of Kadazandusun, the largest indigenous people of Sabah. Donggongon Tamu takes place every Thursday and Friday (6am-6pm). The Donggongon Tamu offers a myriad of merchandises, ranging from local delicacies and handicrafts to fresh vegetable produce and livestock. Both villagers and city people love to shop here, turning this marketplace to a bustling trade and cultural hub that is unique to the Penampang district.

Tamu of Donggongon is open from 6am to 6pm every Thursday and Friday. Actually the market has started in the evening of Wednesday.

Gaya Street Sunday Market in the city centre of Kota Kinabalu is also the favourite open-air market of tourists. Technically, it is not a true tamu. Instead of selling raw vegetables and meat, the vendors sell mostly finished products that target at tourists and city folks. Anyway, it’s worth checking out.

Photo of Penampang tamu taken by G. C. Woolley more than a hundred years ago

Tamu ground of larger towns have overhead roof, sheltered stalls and cement floor, so you don’t need to shop under the hot sun or walk on the mud after rain. For other tamu, all the traders need are just a parasol or a shade under big tree, and a ground or pavement to lay their items. Some tourists may enjoy the feeling of such a rustic tamu.

Opening Days of Tamu

Sabah has over 40 tamu in different towns and districts today. Most tamu open as early as 6am and close by 12pm. Different districts has different tamu days, here’s the list of their opening days (some open more than once a week).

Tamu of Tuaran (left) and Sikuati (right)

Day	Tamu
Monday	Kampung Pukak Kiulu
Tuesday	Kiulu, Kuala Penyu, Pandasan, Tamparuli
Wednesday	Kota Belud, Kudat, Membakut (old township), Nabawan, Ranau, Tamparuli
Thursday	Bingkor (Keningau), Dongongon (6am-6pm), Nabalu, Papar, Sipitang, Sumangkap (Matunggong), Taginambur, Tambunan, Telipok, Tenghilan
Friday	Beaufort, Dongongon (6am-6pm), Kundasang, Sapulot / Sepulut, Teginambur Batu 10
Saturday	Apin-Apin (Keningau), Beaufort, Inanam, Kinarut, Mansiat Sook, Matunggong, Nabawan, Papar, Putatan, Ranau, Telupid
Sunday	Keningau, Kota Belud, Kota Kinabalu (Gaya Street), Kota Marudu, Membakut (new township), Papar, Putatan, Sook, Tambunan, Telupid, Tuaran

Opening days of tamu in Sabah

Tamu of Keningau (left) and Bongawan (right)

Just a trivia for those who are interested in local history. If you look around tamu ground, you would find a medium or big old rock that symbolizes the “contract” among tribes to guarantee honesty, fairness and trust, and to punish those who cheat, quarrel or swear within tamu market.

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Mee Sup Kota Belud, the Noodle Soup from the Cowboy Town of Sabah

Best Mee Sup Kota Belud

The following are the recommended shops for Mee Sup KB, based on public reviews and rating.

1. Kota Belud Town

You can have the authentic Mee Sup KB in a few places of Kota Belud, for examples, the food stalls at Bazar Rakyat Kota Belud (Location Map) and Sunday Tamu Market (Location Map).

Left: one of the food stalls at Bazar Rakyat Kota Belud. Right: menu and price list of noodles

2. Mee Sup KB Ah Thong

Facebook: Mee Sup KB Ah Thong
Phone: +60 12-8239063
Location: 5.909942850793467, 116.1018139753375 (Donggongon, Penampang)

3. MG Corner Restaurant

Facebook: MG-Corner-Restaurant
Phone: +60 16-8366020
Location: 6.137608979075816, 116.27024009807108 (Tamparuli)

4. Real Mee Sup KB

Facebook: @realmeesupkb
Phone: +60 17-816 7428
Location: 5.986795024067851, 116.13059859807107 (Inanam Capital, Inanam)

Some of them may serve pork, so Muslim please check if it’s halal before ordering.

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Mount Nungkok, the Child of Mount Kinabalu

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Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain of Malaysia and Borneo. One of its legend says a woman was turned into Mount Kinabalu by her grief because after many years of waiting, her Chinese husband never returned, thus another nickname for Mount Kinabalu is China widow mountain. The story doesn’t end there. After she becomes rock, another mountain born in her village. That’s Mount Nungkok (Gunung Nungkok in local language), which is also known as Anak Kinabalu, means the Child of Kinabalu.

The distance between Mount Nungkok and Mount Kinabalu is less than 9 Kilometres.

Standing at less than half the height of Mount Kinabalu which is less than 9 Kilometres away, Mount Nungkok does look like a baby sitting at the feet of majestic Mount Kinabalu. Looking from the angle of Kota Belud, the ancient gateway to climb Mount Kinabalu, these two mountains are positioned side by side like twin mountains. No wonder people think they are parent and kid. When Mount Kinabalu is hidden in the cloud, Nungkok is sometimes mistaken as Kinabalu by non-locals.

Mount Nungkok is also part of Kinabalu Park, the first UNESCO Natural Heritage of Malaysia.

However, Mount Nungkok is not as famous as its parent and still a mysterious mountain. Same as Mount Kinabalu, Mount Nungkok is also part of Kinabalu National Park and have its flora and fauna fully protected by conservation laws. Climbers would spot blooming rafflesia flower, exotic orchid and endemic pitcher plant on this mountain, as well as wildlife such as deer and binturong bearcat. In the past someone mined gold in this mountain. I was told by village folk that there is a bat cave in Mount Nungkok too.

Mount Nungkok is located on the western side Mount Kinabalu near Kota Belud, so it is not visible in Kundasang and Ranau town at the east side.

Viewpoints for Mount Nungkok

The most interesting feature of Mount Nungkok is – it differs in shape if viewed from different locations, as shown in the time-lapse video below (I used over 1,200 photos to create this 4K video so please watch):

You don’t need to travel more than two hours to have a spectacular view of Anak Kinabalu. You have better chance of seeing it before 8am during fair weather, both mountains covered in dense mist after 9am in most days.

Mount Kinabalu and Mount Nungkok lit up by the afternoon sunlight. The mountains would turn reddish during sunset.

1. Kota Belud

The view of Mount Nungkok is the most prominent in Kota Belud district, especially at Kampung Tambatuon village, where you can see both mountains up-close. There are dozens of homestay and camping ground around Kota Belud, in case you love mountain and countryside view so much.

Mount Nungkok (Gunung Nungkok) is also known as Anak Kinabalu (Child of Kinabalu). Note the couple taking selfie on the hanging bridge of Tambatuon Village.

In Tambatuon, Mount Nungkok looks like a pyramid mountain with pointy peak. I always imagine that I stand on that tip, it must be a great feeling up there.

View of Mount Nungkok at Tegudon Tourism Village (Kota Belud)

You also can have a clear view of Mount Nungkok at Tegudon Tourism Village and Kampung Kiau.

2. Kota Kinabalu-Tamparuli-Ranau Highway

This is the most convenient option and can be a fun stop for your road trip to Kinabalu Park, Nabalu or Kundasang. For only an hour of driving on a paved road that connects Kota Kinabalu (KK) to Ranau town, you can see Mount Kinabalu and Mount Nungkok from inside your car.

In clear day, you can see Mount Kinabalu and Mount Nungkok from the KK-Ranau highway.

The best viewpoint is along the road about 38 to 42 Kilometres before Ranau town. However, most of the time the view is obstructed by trees and knolls, you can park at one of three toilet stops listed below and use their platforms for an open view. They open from 6:30am to 5pm. The fee to use their toilet is RM0.50. Snacks and drink are available for sale.

The milestone used in Sabah road. For example, this milestone shows the remaining distance to Ranau town is 50 Kilometres. I’m using this to mark the locations and section of the KK-Ranau main road.

1. Quintin Enterprise

Location: 42 KM before Ranau (GPS: 6.088557883280411, 116.43687023602439, see Location Map)

View Point at Quintin Enterprise shop about 42 Kilometres before Ranau town

Besides toilet and a grocery store, this stop has a decorated and Instagramable platform (entry fee is RM1 per person) for a wide and nice open view of Mount Kinabalu and Nungkok. This platform is great for launching and landing my drone safely too.

View point platform of Quintin Enterprise. You can get yourself a cup of hot coffee and sit there to appreciate the view.

Tourists enjoy the twin mountains view on the platform

2. Peranggi View Point

Location: 40 KM before Ranau (GPS: 6.076247258484695, 116.44161145366436, see Location Map)

Toilet stop and grocery shop at Peranggi View Point (in Kampung Kaung Lapai) about 40 Kilometres before Ranau town

Peranggi View Point is a bigger area with many parking lots. They have small grocery store and canteen that sell snacks, buns and drink.

The viewpoint platform of Peranggi View Point

3. Gerai Anna

Location: 38 KM before Ranau (GPS: 6.054505309728095, 116.4479594934989, see Location Map)

Toilet stop of Gerai Anna and Kitchen De Aman about 38 Kilometres before Ranau town. You can enjoy the nice view of Mount Nungkok while dining at Kitchen De Aman.

This site has a restaurant where you can order simple dishes such as chicken rice and fried noodle. The picturesque mountain view at dining area is a bonus.

My favourite spot is near the Kota Belud to Ranau junction (GPS: 6.104156379447983, 116.42378880340594, see Location Map), where both mountains are aligned in center and seem really near to each other.

The KK-Ranau road section about 38 to 42 Kilometres before Ranau offers a good view of Mount Nungkok.

As the KK-Ranau main road is on the highland, you will have a bird’s-eye view of both mountains. From this side, Mount Nungkok is a forested mountain with blunt top. You can see the exposed granite near its top, a result of the landslides caused by earthquake in 2015.

Climbing Mount Nungkok

Mount Nungkok was used to be off-limit to the public as it’s a fully-protected park managed by Sabah Parks. Started in 2017, climbing is allowed for visitors with a permit and licensed guides from the Park. Only up to 15 climbers are allowed per day.

View of Mount Nungkok at Kampung Kiau Nuluh village

Even though Mount Nungkok is about 1,652 Metres (5,420 feet) tall and far lower than Mount Kinabalu (4,095 Metres / 13,435 feet), the climb is more challenging due to its steepness, even to experienced hikers.

Mount Kinabalu and Mount Nungkok, like parent and child. View from Kota Belud junction on KK-Ranau road.

Based on what I found on the Internet, there are three peaks on Mount Nungkok. The highest peak is not open to climbers. There are two climbing routes that started from two different locations in Kota Belud and lead to the other two peaks. You can book the climb with the homestay operators in the villages.

Route No.1: Tambatuon

This is the more popular choice and it can be a day trip. The starting point is in Kampung Tambatuon village about 6.2 KM away from Mount Nungkok. Climbers who are not in a rush would spend a night in the local homestay operated by Tambatuon Eco Tourism Community and start the climb in next morning.

View of Mount Kinabalu (left) and Mount Nungkok (right) at Kampung Tambatuon village of Kota Belud

First the climbers will be transferred by 4-wheel drive to the starting point about 3 KM away around 5am. The summit trail is about 3.43 KM one way, and you can reach the peak at 1,652 Metres (5,420 feet) after 4 to 8 hours, depends on your fitness. For more details, you may check out the blog here and there, and the video of the climb.

Route No.2: Lobong-Lobong

This route takes 2 days 1 night and the total climbing distance is 8.8 KM one way. In day 1, climbers start their climb from Kampung Lobong-Lobong village (or Tanak Nabalu) to reach base camp about 4.4 KM away. After camping there for a night, they continue to climb another 4.4 KM to reach the peak at 1,574 Metres (5,164 feet).

Location of Kampung Lobong-Lobong, one of the starting points to climb Mount Nungkok.

The Lobong-Lobong route takes longer time but it offers more nature experience. For more info, you can watch the walk-through videos (4-minute and 14-minute versions).

Hope I will climb Mount Nungkok one day and blog more about its natural treasures. For now, I just admire its beauty from a distance.

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Highway to Mount Kinabalu? My half-day trip to Tempasuk Plains

Birdwatching at Tempasuk Plains

Bring a binocular! When you approach Tempasuk Plains, it’s hard not to notice that there are hundred of birds foraging in paddy fields and wetlands there. In fact, Tempasuk Plains is the best place in Borneo to see migrant waterbirds and raptors from October to April, according to the book “Phillipps’ Field Guide to the Birds of Borneo” written by Quentin Phillipps and Karen Phillipps, the best selling bird-watching guide book on Borneo birds.

Tempasuk Plains is an important wetland and stopover for migrant birds

To escape the cold, a total of 244 migrant bird species and about 15 millions of them fly thousand of miles from Siberia and North East Asia (e.g. Russia, China, Japan, Korea) to Borneo when it’s winter in Northern Hemisphere. Nearly 100 species land and rest in Tempasuk Plains, where they find abundant food, for example, fishes and insects, turning Tempasuk Plains into a busy airport (probably the birds think that long road is an airstrip, just kidding). They will fly home once the cold season in their homeland is over.

Ten of thousands of migrant birds from North East Asia visit Tempasuk Plains every year

The special migrant birds at Tempasuk include raptors such as Peregrine, Mash Harrier, Black-winged Kite and Kestrel, and rare visitors like wild ducks, Pratincoles, Hoopoe, Ruddy Kingfisher, Black Drongo. In Dec 2021, a rare Black-faced spoonbill was spotted here. Avid birders will look for Grass Owl and skulking warblers too. Other common migrant birds like Egrets, Sandpipers, long-toed stint, Whiskered tern, Black-winged Stilt, and Greenshank are just everywhere. The high diversity of birds makes this plain one of the favourite spots of bird photographers.

Tempasuk Plains offers variety of habitat for birds, for example, paddy fields, swamps, lake, rivers, grassland, low hills.

Tempasuk Plains is part of Kota Belud Bird Sanctuary, which is approximately 12,200 ha (about 122 Square Kilometres) in size, a stopover for half a million migrant birds, and house 127 bird species in different habitats such as swamps, mudflats, coastal grassland, paddy field, mangrove, low hills, and open countryside in Kota Belud.

To spot more exciting bird species, you could explore this sanctuary with a bird guide. Personally I recommend Jason and Ceekay, both are my friends who have over 20 years of birding experience.

Even during non-peak months for migrant birds, birders still can find many resident birds in Tempasuk, to name a few, White-breasted Waterhen, Dusky Munia, spotted Dove, Oriental Darter, Swamphern, Striated Grassbird, Common Moorhen, and Heron. Some migrant birds have become resident too, e.g. great egret, honey buzzard, Peregrine Falcon, Ruddy Kingfisher and Brown Flycatcher. Beginner birders will be overjoyed to write off a long list of birds from their bucket list.

Instead of taking only a few photos there, now you have more reasons to visit Tempasuk. Would you bring a binocular or bicycle?

Many locals cycle and jog around Tempasuk Plains in the morning hence many cars parked along the road

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Bridal veil stinkhorn

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Finally I saw Bridal veil stinkhorn, one of the fungus on my photography dream list. By looking at its beautiful appearance, you can understand that why I like it so much. This fungus is girdled with a net-cage and lacy structure called the indusium, or “skirt”, which hangs down from its bell-shaped cap.

Bridal veil stinkhorn has many other common names such as Crinoline stinkhorn, Long net stinkhorn, Veiled lady, bamboo fungus and bamboo pith. I have no idea what is the function of its “skirt” which earns it these names. As its name implies, it is stink. The scientific name of the most common Bridal veil stinkhorn in Sabah is Phallus indusiatus, a fungus in the Phallaceae family.

We didn’t see this stinkhorn the previous day, so it must be very new. Though sighting of this fungus are recorded in hilly forest of Kinabalu Park, Kionsom (Inanam), Bukit Padang, and Kampung Kiau Nuluh (Kota Belud), you need a bit of luck to spot it, as it is short-lived. The fungus would be almost gone after 2 days.

At first, it seems like many ants were busy running on the fungus. When I took a closer look, those insects are not ants. Can anyone tell me what they are?

Bridal veil stinkhorn is different from other fungus. It doesn’t use wind to spread their spores (seeds). Instead, it produces a sticky spore mass on its tip which smells like carrion, to attract flies and bees to come and disperse the spores.

Fashion inspired by Bridal Veil mushroom. Just for fun.

Despite its foul smell, Bridal veil stinkhorn is edible. In fact, stinkhorns are cultivated in China and considered as a delicacy which is rich in protein, carbohydrates and dietary fiber.

This is another species of Bridal veil stinkhorn that I saw in Danum Valley. It’s *Phallus cinnabarinus* with a cinnabar red skirt. The cap is covered in a sticky, foul-smelling, spore-filled gleba that attracts flies and other insects to carry its spores.

(Picture source: Hat Veils – HatVeils.com)
To you all, this fungus really looks like a shy lady in bridal veil.

(Picture source: Romina Lopez Photos | Myspace)
Well, to me, it looks like a lady in fishnet shirt, oh… sexy mama, LOL. 😀

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Boobs Rock, Waterfalls and Black Honeybees at Maranggoi, Kota Belud

About Maranggoi and Pinolobu

Located in Pinolobu Village (Kampung Pinolobu), Maranggoi Eco Tourism is a new destination of rural tourism, which promotes travelling in countryside of Sabah. This village is blessed with forest, waterfalls, spring water and clean river. Maranggoi is the name of the river, which is named after a missing young man Maranggoi, who used to collect resin in forest around that river. But one time he didn’t return home after 3 days, which he normally did. The villagers went out looking for him and shouted his name, but they only found the cigarette butt Maranggoi left.

Kampung Pinolobu is a village about 17 Kilometres away from Kota Belud town. Pinolobu means breaking into a new frontier. Most of the population in Pinolobu Village is Dusun Tindal people and majority of them are farmers. Fruits and crops are everywhere in Pinolobu, to list a few, tapioca, pineapple, mango, rambutan, durian, sweet potato, and rubber. The entire village is built on hill area. To move around neighbourhood, you would need to walk up and down some slopes.

Visit the Boobs Rock (Batu Nenen)

Last month I booked a 2-day-1-night tour with the operator of Maranggoi. I drove 2 hours from Kota Kinabalu to Kampung Pinolobu. I was a bit worried about the bad weather lately, and wished the sky would be kind to me on my birthday. Luckily, the day was clear in the morning and by 7:30am I met Risin, who was my guide. Risin is married with 4 kids and own a farm in Kampung Pinolobu.

After a light breakfast in a local shop, we headed to the starting point of jungle trekking, to visit four waterfalls and Boobs Rock in Maranggoi. The hike started in the base camp, which is nearby the first waterfall, Wasai Telupid. Telupid is the name of a rare exotic tree that bears sour fruit, its leaf also has strong flavor of sour, and both can make mouth watering pickle and food.

First waterfall (Telupid Waterfall) in Maranggoi river trail

To reach Batu Nenen, We needed to walk over 2 KM along Maranggoi River and passed by a few waterfalls. As this is upstream, the boulders are huge and the stream is crystal clear. Risin says there is no more village upriver so the water is unpolluted. Maranggoi River also seldom floods, even in rainy season. Do bring swimwear if you want to enjoy the clean and cooling water. All waterfall ponds are shallow and safe for a soak.

Telupid tree, a rather rare and exotic tree with edible sour fruits and leaves

The nature trail to Boobs Rock is pretty challenging for tourists who are not used to jungle trekking. We have to cross a few streams and climbed over many slippery boulders (Do expect to get wet until knee level). Besides, half of the time I walked on narrow soil trail along the side of the slope, a misstep could cause a bad fall down the slope. Most of the steep sections don’t have rope or rail support. Landslides blocked our way a few times, and we had to clear another path to get around them. Just to warn you that this is a rugged trail. Most visitors can do it but casual tourists would feel uncomfortable.

Left: zombie forest ants infected by parasitic fungus (commonly known as *Cordyceps*). Right: big caterpillar

Due to hunting activity, no big wildlife is spotted, so forest leech is absent too. We did see some fresh holes dug by wild boars foraging for food. According to Risin, Konexer captured the video of a Tufted Ground Squirrel (species: Rheithrosciurus macrotis) in camera trap there. Tufted Ground Squirrel is also known as Vampire Squirrel, it’s very rare and endemic to Borneo. It has the world’s fluffiest tail.

The riverine zone is a regenerated secondary forest with dense undergrowth. Risin shows me some interesting trees and herb that we spotted along the trail. Some fruit trees have spread into this forest, like rambutan, tarap, and cempedak. We passed through quite a number of farmland and rubber plantation in forest edge but didn’t see anyone else though.

Withered flower (left) and bud (right) of *Rhizanthes lowii*

The most exciting plant I saw is Rhizanthes lowii, which is endemic to Borneo and a parasitic flowering plant without leaves, stems, and roots. Rhizanthes is a corpse flower same family as rafflesia flower. Its flower lasts only a few days. Though I saw only the withered flower and bud, this is already worth my trip.

After 1.84 Kilometre, we arrived the second waterfall, Gotokon Waterfall, which is a cascading waterfalls with the highest tier around 4 Metres in height. Personally I think it’s the most beautiful waterfall in Maranggoi river. Gotokon is derived from the term that describes the action (Togop) of scratching tree bark to collect sap. The sap is sticky and can be used as strong glue for bird trap.

Gotokon Waterfall is about 1.85 KM away from campsite

The next waterfall, Ronggu Waterfall, is less than 400 Metres ahead. Because I kept stopping for pictures so we were slow and it’s already 12:33pm, so we decided to have our lunch next to this waterfall. Risin brought some rice and traditional side dishes. We sat on the rocks and enjoyed our food.

Ronggu Waterfall (about 2.12 KM away from campsite)

We continued our hike after lunch. Within 15 minutes, we approached a rockface with flowing water. Probably due to the natural minerals, the water leaves a black trail on the surface it flows through. Risin says, “this is spring water (mata air) that percolates through rocks! We have a few spring water sources around Maranggoi. They never dry up even during drought. Instead, they even overflow in dry season occasionally. Sometimes I bring buckets of natural water from Maranggoi to my twin daughters who study in Tamparuli because they are not used to drinking the chlorinated water in town.”

Natural spring water coming out from the rocks next to Maranggoi River. Note the picture at the right, the mineral deposits in the spring water turn rocks into dark color

Finally, we made it to Batu Nenen (Boobs Rock) at 1:33pm. The local myth mentions about Batu Hujan (Rock Rain), which is a display of the wrath of God. Everything hit by this rain will turn into rock. The Boobs Rock was probably an unlucky woman hit by the rock rain, but no confirmation about its origin. When I wanted to have some quality time with the boobs rock, heavy downpour suddenly came. We left in a hurry. Bummer!

Risin enjoyed grabbing Boobs Rock (Batu Nenen) lol

A strange tree near to Batu Nenen (Boobs Rock). It looks like p….

We walked back to the village. After nearly 2 hours I saw rows of whitish trunks of rubber trees, I knew we were home.

Watu Kepungit Waterfall looks mythical with the vines

What I Ate

I like to acquire new tastes so I requested them to provide local meals. Their traditional village food is not bad, as it is freshly caught or harvested locally and not high in fat and sugar. White rice is always the “main course”. The rice is compacted and wrapped in big Doringin (Dillenia beccariana) leaf and they call this rice pack linopot. Farmers always carry linopot to the field because such packing prevents the rice from spoiling fast.

Breakfast

I had some Linuput rempis (fishes wrapped and cooked in multiple layers of doringin leaves). The small fishes are from the river next to our camp. “Palm heart” soup is new to me, the soft core of palm trees such as banana and coconut are edible.

Lunch

These are what I ate at the waterfall. I love sour food so the liposu fruit has become my new favorite. The fruits are cut into slices, red color is the raw pulp and whitish color ones are smoked liposu.

Dinner

Rice with Bahu (Mango pickle with red chili) and raw tarap soup. The older the Bahu mango, the more sour it is. The seeds of tarap fruits are edible and taste like peanut.

Fruits

The highlight is Sukang durian, a mini durian grows in the wild but now also widely cultivated in Sabah orchard. The fruit is smaller but creamy and meaty. The durian aroma isn’t too overpower. Besides, I also bought 7 Kilograms of rambutan fruit (RM3/Kg) from a villager. I’m lucky because it is fruiting season.

Second day of the my trip is to tour around Kampung Pinolobu, a relaxing day.

Stingless Bee (Kelulut) Farm

Stingless bees are also honey producer. It’s called Kelulut in Malay language but sounds similar to something negative in local language, so the local people prefer to call it Tantadan. Stingless bees don’t sting and Kelulut honey can fetch higher price than normal honey, so more and more villagers rear stingless bees at home.

I visited an organic stingless bee farm that is built by local community in Pinolobu Village. There are 75 bee houses in the farm. If they include bee houses of whole village, there will be a total of over 300. Each hive produces about 2 Kg of honey per month, and it is sold for RM20 per 100 grams, a good side income.

This kelulut farm is placed under the rambutan fruit trees and next to clusters of Honolulu creeper flowers (air mata puteri), the preferred host plant for the stingless bees. Sometimes beekeepers feed the bees with rambutan and banana fruit if the bees can’t go out harvesting nectar during rainy season.

There are about 75 Stingless Bee (Kelulut) houses in this farm

Stingless bees are a lot smaller than honeybees, so they can access tiny flowers and extract more nutrients. They build their nests in tree hollows and crevices. When the villagers find their hives in the wild, they would cut the log section that contains the nest and transfer them to the bee house. This has to be done at night, after all the worker bees return to their nest.

The taste of kelulut honey varies in flavour depend on fruit and flowers they visit. In general, kelulut honey is sourish sweet, usually sweetness is the base taste, with a bit of sourness or bitter, or a mix of all, sometimes with a hint of fruit aroma. The colour of the stingless bee honey can be yellow, brown and even pink (rare and more expensive but no difference in nutrients).

Stingless bees store their honey in the containers called honey pots. The fun part of the visit is to sip the honey from these pots with a straw. The stingless bee honey is sticky so I need to suck harder. It’s sourish sweet, with a bit of durian aroma.

This stingless bee farm has more than 6 species of stingless bees. Heterotrigona itama and Geniotrigona thoracica are the preferred species for beekeeping, as they are more productive. I was attacked by a swarm of Lophotrigona canifrons when I got too close to their nest for filming. Their bite is like ant bite, not really hurt but definitely unpleasant to have the bees all over your face lol.

Risin says a teaspoon of kelulut honey twice a day can improve the immunity system. If you want to learn more about kelulut honey and beekeeping, you may check out my last post.

Burung Jinak (Tamed Birds)

The last stop is to check out the tamed birds. There are 5 or more wild Magpie robin that can be hand-fed. The villager just brings some mealworms and whistle to call them. The birds gathered and chirped on a tree nearby. Then the birds fly to him and pick up the worms from his hand. It took them some years to gain trust from these wild birds.

Calling and hand-feeding wild magpie robin birds

I’ve been feeding some feral pigeons for a long time. Even today they still don’t want to befriend me. So the lesson is – only nicely treat those who appreciate your friendship. Some freeloaders are just takers and don’t deserve to be your friend.

Camping Grounds

There are two camping grounds in Maranggoi. Bunti Campsite has better environment and facilities. Wasai Telupid Campsite is quite basic (shelter and toilet only) but it offers more camping experience, and it’s a short walk to a beautiful waterfall. Mosquitoes may present during dusk. Insect repellent and mosquito coil would be useful. The night is quite cooling like air-conditioning. Do bring a good sleeping bag, mat and some warm clothing. Both campsites have no phone service (only weak signal of Digi in higher ground).

Bunti Campsite. The big building is the house of Uncle Sinuar. I overnight in the small hut (picture at the right)

I was staying in Bunti Campsite, which is well maintained by Uncle Sinuar. He also cooked for my meals with produces / caught from his farm and river. This 70-year-old and friendly villager is still active in farming. He worked as a carpenter before, so he builds all the hut and gazebo there himself. Visitors can choose to sleep in camping tent or the hut.

Camping ground and river (where I bath) at Bunti Campsite

Booking and Contact

You can find more information and photos in their Facebook page @ Maranggoi. It’s more fun to camp with a group of friends. Below is the price list for your perusal (rates as of August 2020).

Entrance Fee

Adult: RM3.00
Senior (65 and above): Free
Child (7-12 years old): RM2.00
Child (Below 7): Free

Activity Fee

Hiking: RM5.00
Visit Stingless Bee Farm: RM5.00
Camping: RM7.00/Night (bring your own camping tent)
Camping Tent Rental: RM15.00/unit

For full-day or overnight trip, you may consider the following packages. I was going for package no.2. For further information or booking, please call or Whatsapp 0111-514-7226 (Risin Ituk), 0111-530-7865 (Jalni), 019-880-3344 (Lazrus)

Package 1 (Preface)

Price: RM56.00 per person / 1 Day
Hiking & jungle trekking (4 Waterfalls)
Stingless honey bee farm visit
Fish feeding
Lunch
Guide(s)
Certificate

Package 2 (Night with Maranggoi)

Price: RM100 per person / 2 Days 1 Night
Hiking & jungle trekking (4 Waterfalls)
Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Stingless honey bee farm visit
Cultural night
Fish feeding
Guide(s)
Certificate

Package 3 (Maranggoi Outdoor / Survival package)

Price: RM150 per person / 2 Days 1 Night
Hiking & jungle trekking (4 Waterfalls)
Camping
Bonfire
Night hiking (optional)
Cultural night (optional)
Guide(s)
Rice (provided)
Certificate
Gathering foods from the river and forest

How to get there

Maranggoi is situated in Kampung Pinolobu (GPS: 6.254638, 116.490666, see Location Map) of Kota Belud district and about 84 Kilometres away from Kota Kinabalu city (2 hours by driving). There is paved road in good condition from Kota Kinabalu to this village, except the last 7KM of gravel road (still accessible by sedan). Or you can request them to pick you up in Kota Belud town or Kota Kinabalu city.

Gravel road to Maranggoi Eco Tourism site (Kampung Pinolobu)

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

10 Most Beautiful Traditional Costumes of Sabah

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Sabah culture is so colourful. We have over 30 indigenous and 200 sub-ethnic groups, most of them have distinct traditional costume, a heritage that tells the world their identity, traditions, and stories. Sabah is beautiful because of this cultural diversity. I’ve been photographing Sabah traditional costumes for 15 years and would like to share what I think are the 10 most beautiful traditional costumes of Sabah (not in any order).

Please note there are always variants in costumes due to different occasions such as wedding, ceremony and social status, so I only can give you a general view. FYI, many ethnic groups share common elements such as linangkit (needlework), siga (headgear) and belts (e.g. Tangkong, Himpogot).

1. Kadazan Penampang

Kadazandusun is the largest indigenous group of Sabah, and Kadazan Penampang is the biggest sub-ethnic. Their traditional costume has become an iconic dress to represent Sabahans.

Kadazan Penampang couple in traditional costume

Kadazan Penampang costume has basic trimmings and embroidery and may look a bit plain. However, simplicity is beauty, like Vietnamese Ao Dai and Chinese Cheongsam. Though it has relatively less shining ornaments and accessories, it is an elegant cloth inspired by sarong kebaya.

The costume of young female consists of a long cylindrical wrap skirt and a sleeveless blouse (Sinuangga’), and decorated with gold trimmings running along the opening for head and arms, and along the seams at the side and along the middle of the back. Around the trimming on neck and front is 20 or more gold plated Betawi buttons.

Bobohizan is the high priestesses of Kadazan people. They wear large headgear with feathers and beads.

Silver-dollar chains (himpogot) and brass ring belts (tangkong) in set of 2 to 3 are worn around the waist and hip to emphasize the curve. Some himpogot and tangkong are antique passed on to women as heirloom or wedding dowry, they can cost thousands of dollars!

“Light version” of Kadazan Penampang costume could be a daily wear

The jacket and trousers of Kadazan Penampang men bear some Chinese influence. They wear headgear called siga, a very intricately woven square piece of headcloth, handwoven or embroidered, and folded to the shape of the peak of the Mount Kinabalu. Most men from Kadazandusun ethnic group wear siga.

The basic material for clothing is black commercial fabric, silk or velvet for ceremonial occasions. It is also made from cotton for daily wear.

2. Dusun Lotud

With a population of only 6,000 in Tuaran district, Dusun Lotud is very famous for weaving the embroidered panel called linangkit, which is used to decorate the skirt, sash and trousers of many Sabah tribes. Without linangkit, Sabah traditional costumes would be far less colourful.

Dusun Lotud couple in ceremonial attire. Note the siwot on her head, an ornament which is stuck into the hairbun. It consists of four bunches of red cloth and black cock feathers. The strings of silver-green beads in forehead was used to be the iridescent wings of beetles in old days.

In English, linangkit is sometimes referred to as needle weave or tapestry weave. a technique closely resembles the tatting or frivolite in Europe. Strips of linangkit are used by various native tribes to decorate and join the seams of their clothing. Different ethnic groups have different patterns and colours of linangkit.

Dusun Lotud girls in ceremonial attire with the following items: Sandai: long sash draped over one shoulder to the front and over the next shoulder falling to the back. Karo: a necklace made of mostly long barrel beads of glass, shell and carnelian.

The traditional costume of Dusun Lotud, be it the long sleeve ceremonial attire or short sleeve version, is just gorgeous. In fact, this costume is one of the favourite choice for contestants in Unduk Ngadau beauty pageant (Harvest Festival Queen) during Kaamatan (Sabah Harvest Festival).

Women in Dusun Lotud traditional costume. Gonob: knee-length black cotton tube skirt. From the waist down is a panel of linangkit needle work. Kuluwu: circular sash with gold trimming along the edges. At the seam is wide band of linangkit. Lilimbo: wide girdle of interconnected loops of split rattan worn around the hips. (Red colour for childless women, black colour for mothers)

Man is wearing headgear called sundi can be folded in different ways. When two points stick out, the weaver has two wives and so on (now you know!).

3. Rungus

Rungus of northern Sabah is considered as the most “traditional” and unique tribe among all Sabah indigenous groups. Rungus women wear a dark bandeau with delicate hand-stitched patterns, a matching knee-length tube skirt and a slipover that drapes over the arms like sleeves. The narrow upper zone of the bodice is decorated with horizontal bands filled with floating weft and/or embroidered motifs. The lower part of the bodice is embellished with vertical bands.

Rungus people dancing Mongigol Sumandai

The women’s hair is pulled back in a neat bun and decorated with a titimbok (a multi-colored floral headpiece), sisingal (a thin band of beads tied together around the forehead) and rampai (a hairpin which has two or three rows of folded pieces of colourful cloth strung together and which float down to the nape)

Rungus woman costume decorated with exotic accessories. Hip band looped with brass rings and antique beads called orot and two pinakol, beaded shoulder bands worn diagonally across the chest. Togkol: string of carnelian, glass and shell beads looped crossed over the shoulders. Sulau: necklace of old beads and a disc of white shell (giant clam) in front and back.

The dress is “musical” too, by having many tiny brass bells attached to bottom hem line of their skirt, making delightful tinkling sounds when they walk or dance.

Rungus women wearing brass ring necklace (Ganggalung) and legging (Lungkaki)

Some older Rungus women wear heavy brass ring necklace and legging. It’s a fading costume.
Ganggalung: discs of brass coil worn as necklace.
Lungkaki: tightly coiled brass ornament covering the lower legs.

The headgear of men is brightly coloured Kain tinohian (a.k.a. kain pis), a richly embroidered cloth with legendary creatures and takes four months to weave one.

4. Murut Tagol

Murut means “People of the Hill”, and majority of this third largest indigenous group of Sabah lives in interior. They were used to be fearsome headhunters in the past, and men preserve their wild warrior outfit until today (they prefer proper shirts anyway).

Girls in Murut traditional costume

Murut has over 15 ethnic groups, and Murut Tagol is the most skillful for their weave work. Murut women wear black, sleeveless blouse and a long, black skirt decorated with colourful beads motifs of daily objects such as flowers, insects, animals and ferns. Female skirt has hip belts made of chained white round seeds collected from Job’s Tears plant (Coix lacryma-jobi).

The men costume is even more interesting. They wear vest, frontal and rear flaps made of tree bark. First, barks of the tarap or tamarang (timadang) trees (Artcocarps tamaran) are peeled from the trunks, soaked in stream for days to soften them up, then it is pounded, washed and rinsed, and lastly dried under sun for the fabric. However, man costume is too “sexy” so they also wear short pants for more cover.

Beautiful female traditional costume of Murut

The headgear of Murut may be adorned with long tail feathers of Great Argus Pheasant. To see more Murut costumes, you may check out Kalimaran Festival which is held annually in Tenom.

5. Bajau Sama

While most Kadazandusun and Murut people use black as the base colour, Bajau goes bold with striking colours such as yellow, red, green and blue. This also reflects in their multi-coloured and elaborate floral motifs in their crafts, an element greatly inspired by Islam. Bajau in Kota Belud town is also known as Cowboys of the East due to their mastery in horse-riding skill.

Traditional costumes of Bajau Same

Bajau women wear an unusual headgear called sarempak, which is a two-pieced head decoration in the shape of a ship made of gilded silver or modern substitute. Small ornaments dangling down from both ends of sarempak are called garigai. Next is the brightly colored satiny blouse usually in yellow. The flared sleeves show the cuffs of an underblouse in contrasting hue.

Mock wedding of Bajau people

Shining metallic accessories complement their traditional costume really well. Bajau women covers the front from below the neck to waist with beautiful mandapun, a flat collar-ornament accentuating the neckline decorated with stylized leaves in silver, goldleaf or substitute. To add more colours, long and wide band of linangkit embroidered panels (berangkit in Bajau) are sewn into their long black wrap-skirt.

Bajau men wear the traditional headgear called kain dastar, which is also used in women skirt. See more their vibrant culture in Tamu Besar Festival which is normally held in October in Kota Belud town. They even dress up their horses!

6. Kadazan Papar

I wonder who designed the traditional costume of Kadazan Papar. It’s so cute and “flowerish”. The lovely girl costume looks neat and modern. Kadazan Papar women wear a short jacket with gold or silver buttons over a white blouse, and their knee-length black skirt is decorated with a horizontal and vertical cross-stitched panel lined with gold thread. Gold or silver trimming is used on the seams.

Kadazan Papar couple

The mini conical hat is made of fine bamboo strips and features coloured feather-down or artificial flowers at the top to show the wearer’s marital status. Feather-down for the single lady and flowers for the married woman. Another hint is the silver belt (antique British trade dollar), unmarried ladies wear four and married wear two.

The flowers of Kadazan Papar

If no feather or flower, the woman is widowed, grandmothers or elderly ladies then.

7. Dusun Tindal

Influenced by culture of Bajau Sama in the same district, Dusun Tindal is also the most colourful Kadazandusun sub-ethnic group. Just look at the girl costume, 3-colour slashed and flared sleeves from the elbows, rainbow-like beads girdle around the hips, and also embroider on their arms and hem of the skirt. To add more colours, in formal occasion they also carry sunduk, a multi-color hood with embroidered border.

Dusun Tindal people from Kota Belud

On top of colours is extensive use of metallic elements: line and line of gold or silver trimmings and sequins are sewn into their blouse and skirt, two to four Himpogot (or Simpogot) silver-dollar chain belts on the waist, one or more of kuapu (a round embossed silver tobacco container made by the Bruneis) are worn around the neck on a silver chain.

Close up of Dusun Tindal girl dress

Dusun Tindal has brought the creativity of native fashion to the next level. You would be surprised that Dusun Tindal extracts fibre from a wild banana or pisang lanut (Musa textilis) which is processed into a coarse yarn for weaving their skirts, jackets and headwear.

8. Sea Bajau

While Bajau Sama in West Coast of Sabah has the best horse-riding skill, Sea Bajau (or Suluk) in East Coast is an expert of seafaring. Also known as the Sea Gypsies, Sea Bajau spent most of their time on the boat and sailed around the sea of South East Asia. Now they are not as nomadic and many have called Sabah their homeland.

Sea Bajau girls in Lepa-Lepa boat

Similar to Bajau Sama, Sea Bajau is also a fan of bright colours. Their dresses are almost fully covered with colourful patterns, and gold / silver trimmings, sequins and embroidery. Sea Bajau dancers wear long gold or silver fingercovers, to show their fingers dance.

Sea Bajau girl dancer

Backed by beating of drum and kulintangan (small brass gong) music, the dance of Sea Bajau is one of the most mesmerizing in Borneo. They shake and move every part of their bodies, combine with rich facial expression to dazzle you, even to a seductive level. To see more of Sea Bajau, don’t miss the Lepa-Lepa Festival in April every year in Semporna.

The traditional costume of Sea Bajau is really fancy and shout “Look at me! Look at me!”

9. Dusun Lebou

Dusun Lebou (or Lobu) is a sub-ethnic of Kadazandusun lives in Sook (in Keningau district of Sabah interior). Their big woven cloth (called Binaduan) takes a month to weave and consists of different Rungus motifs and even some Dayak motifs from the southern part of Borneo. The complete costume is 2 pieces of woven Binaduan sewn together to create the front and back covers. Binaduan is used in skirt too.

Dusun Lebou girls from Sook

The size, design and complexity of Binaduan is simply astonishing. Men’s costume has a finer motif called Inambau. Unfortunately, the last person who knows how to weave Inambau has passed away. The traditional costume of Dusun Lebou is complex and special, but this art can go extinct.

Binaduan cloth of Dusun Lebou

In old days, married woman with child was not allowed to be a Binaduan weaver. The story was:- a mother was too engrossed with weaving Binaduan from morning until night that she accidentally starved her baby. Devastated, she forbade any married woman to weave Binaduan. The ban was lifted later so more people can pass on this heritage.

Back view of Binaduan is as beautiful as butterfly wings

10. Lundayeh

Most Sabah Lundayeh lives in Sipitang, Tenom and Long Pasia. Different to other groups who mostly use black as main colour, white blouse and black skirt are the signature wear of Lundayeh ladies. Lundayeh men wear jackets made of tree barks called kuyu talun.

Smile of Lundayeh girls, so sweet. Marry one?

Traditional costume of Lundayeh people is simple, but sharp and catchy

Bead cap made entirely of beads (it can be glass, carnelian and other materials) is worn by every Lundayeh woman. In the past, only upper class ladies could wear bead cap. Other key accessories are multi-strand necklaces, silver waist belts, and colourful bead girdle wrap around the hip. Overall it’s a very clean and stylish traditional costume.

Cute Lundayeh flower girls in Sipitang

That’s all! Have you seen other beautiful costumes that desire to be featured here? What’s your top 10 list? Please share it in comment section below.

Now you can see that Sabahans are totally different breed of Malaysians. Put all 200 traditional costumes together and we can make a Sabah version of Wakanda movie.

Sabah has enough beautiful costumes to film Wakanda. Sakanda anyone?

To learn more about traditional costumes of Sabah, you may visit Chanteek Borneo Indigenous Museum in Tamparuli, which showcases wide array of costume dolls, and it is awarded the title “The First Miniature Indigenous Museum” in the country by Malaysia Book of Records. Want to rent a traditional costume? You can browse Sabah Cultural Board website.

Reference Books

“An Introduction to the Traditional Costumes of Sabah” – January 1, 1997, by Rita Lasimbang and Stella Moo-Tan
“The Beliefs and Practices of the Kadazandusun-Murut Natives of Sabah” – 2017, by John Seet

Climbing Mount Nopungguk, the mini Mt. Kinabalu

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Mount Kinabalu is not the only mountain in Kinabalu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This highest mountain of Malaysia has many “sibling” mountains, for example, Mount Tambuyukon (2,579 Metres, the 4th highest mountain in Malaysia), Mount Nombuyukong (1,604 Metres).

Mount Nopungguk is only 1/3 the height of Mount Kinabalu. Nopungguk means “Chopped” in local word.

Normally climbers take about 3 hours to reach the peak of Mount Nopungguk

Mount Nopungguk (1,430 Metres or 4,692 Feet) is only about 1/3 the height of Mt. Kinabalu (4,096 Metres). It’s part of Kinabalu Park so climbers need to apply a permit and hire a park guide to enter. The climb is not overly challenging and a taste of botanical tour in this UNESCO site already makes your trip worthwhile. More than 1,000 climbers have climbed Mount Nopungguk. I’m one of them.

The climb usually starts very early in the morning.

The climbing trip is easy to arrange. I stayed one night in Nopungguk Homestay in Kampung Gansurai (Village) of Kota Belud, the starting point of the climb. Next morning around 6am, we gathered for a short briefing by the guide. The mountain guides with us were Disiol Egong, Nickalso Sabin, and David Summoring. Without them, we could lose our way easily in the forest.

Mount Nopungguk is also part of Kinabalu Park, UNESCO World Heritage Site

Close-up view of Mount Kinabalu on Mount Nopungguk

A height of 1,430 Metres may sound too much to beginners. But our starting point is 400 Metres above sea level, so we actually needed to climb up about 1,030M more Metres. Hiking one KM of hilly path to move up is tiring, but not too bad if we go slow. All of us made it to the top.

Taking a rest. The village dog only followed us until this point.

The trail to the summit of Mount Nopungguk is about 6 Kilometres (3.7 Miles) in distance and would take 2 to 3 hours, depends on your fitness. At first we walked in the wood of countryside. The trees got denser and we were moving quietly in the dark. The first 3 KM is quite ok. We passed by Mirolian Stone and Rafflesia Park but didn’t stop to look around because it was still dark. Then we reached the shelter and campsite named Posiduan.

Loop Trail to the summit of Mount Nopungguk

Beautiful green fruits but inedible due to its bad taste.

After short break, we moved on to the steep trails ahead. The steepest section is Purak Pakou trail, which is literally translated as “white buttock trail”. Why? Because in old days, women wore sarong skirt but no underwear inside. When they walked up to the steep slope, the people behind them could see their butt, like what happens to mini-skirt girl who uses escalator lol.

Purak Pakou Trail is the steepest section of the climb

By 8:40am, most of us have reached the peak of Mount Nopungguk and enjoyed the magnificent view of Mt. Kinabalu up-close. It’s a long climb but quite manageable. I would rate the climb as medium in difficulty. The trail could be very slippery after rain. The lurking blood sucking leeches are also a nuisance (can block them with anti-leech socks). The good thing was we were walking in a forested mountain so the tree shade protected us from heat.

Mount Nopungguk is 1,430 Metres (4,692 Feet) in height

After reaching the peak and take some photographs, we will descend via another trail, where we can visit the waterfall and cave on the way back. However, I was descending in the same path where I climbed up, because we have sent one photographer to take photos in another trail.

As more light coming, we explored the attractions such as Mirolian Stone, which is a big three tiers granite boulders. There is a small cave under the rock with a flat stone that looks like a coffin, and hence its name Coffin Cave (Gua Keranda).

The adjacent Rafflesia Park is famous for its Rafflesia keithii, the biggest flower of Sabah and Rhizanthes lowii, another type of corpse flower under same family. However, their blooming flower lasts less than a week so sighting is rare. There are some wild orchid and hundred-year-old tall rainforest trees around.

You can play Titanic with your other half with Titanic Stone, which looks like a sinking ship.

Then I saw the freaking giant Lingzhi, the biggest mushroom that I’ve ever see. In Chinese Kungfu drama, I always hear the legend that thousand-year-old Lingzhi is a super herb that can cure any serious illness and even revive the death. According to a lingzhi expert I know, he says lingzhi is not the older the better. Usually 10 years old lingzhi has the best medical properties.

When morning light hit these lingzhi, I noticed that they were smoking. It’s spore dispersal that releases millions of seeds (spores) to the wild. Awesome!

Besides these amazing nature wonders, visitors can see Goniothalamus Ridleyi tree (pokok tuhub), Panaradan Waterfall, Gua Kinoulawon (cave), and big snake vine in another trail that I didn’t visit. May be next time then.

Itinerary

The following is the standard time table for the climb. If you want to see sunrise on the peak, you would have to move as early as 2am.

4:20am	Gather for briefing at Nopungguk Homestay (Starting Point)
5:00am	Start hiking
6:00am	Reach Mirolian Stone & Rafflesia Park / Mirolian Hut Titanic Stone, Gua Kelawar, Gua Keranda, Batu Bertingkat (Mirolian Stone), Lingzhi, rafflesia
6:30am	Hike to the summit of Mount Nopungguk
8:30am	Reach the peak of Mount Nopungguk
10:00am	Head back to starting point (via different trail)
1:00pm	Reach Panaradan Waterfall *lunch & swimming
2:20pm	Reach Gua Kinoulawon (Cave)
3:10pm	Reach Nopungguk Homestay
3:30pm	High tea at homestay
4:00pm	Certificate presentation
4:20pm	Go home

Note: Only a maximum of 20 hikers per day can climb Mt. Nopungguk, to minimize the impact to the environment

Where to Stay

To start climbing very early in the morning, you are advised to overnight in Kota Belud. Nopungguk Homestay should be your first choice because it’s the starting point and they can get a permit and guide for your climb. This homestay has 18 rooms (dormitory beds and standard rooms) and about 84 KM (52 Miles) away from Kota Kinabalu City.

This green lizard thought I didn’t see it.

Below is more info of Nopungguk Homestay:
GPS Coordinates: 6.202036, 116.488756 (see Location Map)
Website: Facebook, mynopungguk.blogspot.com
Phone: +60 16-8379681 (Mr. Sarun Lambut)
E-mail: sarunlambut@yahoo.com / mynopunggok@gmail.com

Things to Bring

Water + bottle, backpack, anti-leech socks, raincoat / poncho, hiking stick, phone, energy bars, warm clothing (light jacket), swim wear, toiletries (tooth brush, tooth paste, toilet paper, face wash, towel, etc.)

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo