Sabah, often referred to as the land below the wind, is a mesmerizing mountainous state in Malaysia. Its breathtaking landscapes are easily recognised from the planes soaring through the skies. Even on short flights from Kota Kinabalu City (KK) to destinations like Sandakan, Tawau, and Lahad Datu, which take less than an hour, the journey is an exhilarating experience from takeoff to landing, offering a plethora of sights to behold.
Route map of domestic flights in Sabah, from Kota Kinabalu City to Sandakan, Lahad Datu and Tawau, and the landmarks and towns that they pass through. The actual paths are not necessary a straight line.
The side of the plane you select, whether right or left, determines your in-flight views. Below are the routes starting from Kota Kinabalu City (KK), so consider this guide when choosing your window seat. If you’re heading to KK, opt for the opposite side for optimal views.
Kota Kinabalu to Sandakan
The left-side view of the KK to Sandakan flight provides the closest vantage point to Mount Kinabalu, Malaysia’s highest mountain, and the town of Kundasang at its foothill during domestic flights.
The best aerial view of Mount Kinabalu and Kundasang town can be seen from the planes flying between Kota Kinabalu and Sandakan.
As your plane approaches Sandakan city, the left side also affords a superior view of the Kinabatangan floodplains, recognized as the largest RAMSAR site in Malaysia—a wetland celebrated for its ecological and biodiversity significance. On the return journey from Sandakan to Kota Kinabalu, make sure to switch to the right side for the optimal view.
Kinabatangan River is the second longest river of Malaysia
Tawai Forest Reserve under the plane flying to Sandakan
Kinabatangan Floodplains of Sandakan
Sepangar (or Sapangar) Port and Bald Hill (a.k.a. Bukit Botak / Bukit Gundul / Bukit Gentisan)
For planes heading to east coast, you need to sit on the left side to see Mount Kinabalu. The plane passes by this majestic mountain in about 10 minutes.
Gayang Bridge and river in Tuaran
Sepangar / Sapangar Port and Navy Base in Menggatal
Kinabatangan River is the largest Ramsar site of Malaysia, a wetland site designated to be of international importance under the Ramsar Convention.
Kinabatangan River is 560 KM in length, making it the second longest river of Malaysia
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Kota Kinabalu to Tawau
Though the KK to Tawau flight is farther away from Mount Kinabalu, this route offers much more to see. Passengers seated on the left side will still catch a glimpse of Mount Kinabalu. Additionally, as the plane passes by Tawau Hills Park, fortunate passengers on the left side may witness the ancient volcanic mouth of Mount Maria amidst the dense Borneo rainforest.
I once captured 20 panoramic photos of Maliau Basin and stitched them together to create this breathtaking panoramic shot, making it one of the best aerial photos I’ve taken.
For those frequent local travelers who might be accustomed to the sight of Mount Kinabalu, consider switching to the right side during the KK to Tawau flight. From this perspective, you might be treated to a view of Maliau Basin, also known as Sabah’s Lost World. This geological wonder resembles a vast meteorite crater when viewed from the sky. However, keep in mind that luck plays a role as Maliau Basin is often shrouded in clouds.
Oil Palm Vs Rainforest
Crocker Range in morning mist
View of Mount Kinabalu from the flight to Tawau
Maliau Basin, aka Sabah’s Lost World, encircled by cloud
Can you spot the volcanic crater in Tawau Hills Park?
Oil palm plantation of Tawau
Nypa swamp surrounded by oil palm
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No matter which side you sit on, as the plane approaches Tawau, you’ll see vast expanses of oil palm plantations, with pockets of forests nestled within them.
Kota Kinabalu to Lahad Datu
The view from the flight from KK to Lahad Datu is not bad at all. On clear days, passengers on the left side are treated to the majestic sight of Mount Kinabalu in the background, with the picturesque paddy fields of Tambunan, often referred to as the Switzerland of the East, in the foreground.
View of Mount Kinabalu and Tambunan from the plane. You can see the valley with green paddy fields.
However, if you find yourself seated on the right side, don’t be disappointed. You’ll have the privilege of gazing at the multi-peaked Mount Trus Madi, the second-highest mountain in Malaysia. Additionally, the right side offers a bird’s-eye view of Danum Valley, one of the oldest rainforests in the world.
Mount Trus Madi (or Trusmadi), the second highest mountain of Malaysia. It’s a bit difficult to spot this mountain.
The lush and hilly Tawai Forest Reserve in Telupid
Taking off from KKIA airport. You can see Mount Kinabalu at the right.
A small forest surrounded by oil palm in Lahad Datu
To Kota Kinabalu City
Planes destined to land at Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA) treat passengers to a scenic journey along the coastline of KK City. During this approach, travelers are afforded views of popular landmarks, including the islands of Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park, Sabah International Convention Centre (SICC), Jesselton Point, the bustling Waterfront, the iconic Sabah State Mosque, Sutera Harbour, and Tanjung Aru Beach.
Gaya Island is the largest island of Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park off Kota Kinabalu City
For first-time visitors to Sabah, this aerial route along the coastline of KK city centre provides an excellent preview of the charm and vibrancy awaiting them in this captivating destination. It sets the tone for an exciting and memorable experience in Sabah.
Kota Kinabalu to Kuala Lumpur
For flights departing from Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA) bound for destinations outside of Sabah (e.g. Kuala Lumpur), they often make a turn around Gaya Island. If you happen to be seated on the left side, you’ll have a higher chance of spotting the “Smiley Islands” formed by the arrangement of Manukan, Sulug, and Mamutik Islands.
The Smiley Islands, next to Gaya Island, is formed by a group of islands (i.e. Manukan, Mamutik and Sulug).
General Tips
Choose daytime flights for better lighting. There is no aurora borealis in Sabah so nothing for you to see in night flight.
For photography enthusiasts, pay a little fee for a window seat located near the front or rear of the aircraft to minimize wing obstructions.
Larger aircraft, such as the Boeing 737, offer better views compared to smaller ones like the turboprops commonly used by MASwings.
The multi-layered windowpane will impact the quality of your photos, resulting in haziness, blurriness, or distorted colors. Using a professional camera to shoot in RAW format will help you a lot in the post-processing.
Keep your expectation low. Just sit back, relax, and let the beauty of Sabah unfold beneath your wings.
You can see Mount Kinabalu clearly at KKIA (Kota Kinabalu International Airport) especially in the morning.
Higher than the Statue of Liberty of US, the tallest tropical tree in the world is a 100.8-Metre-tall (330.7 feet) Yellow Meranti tree (species: Shorea faguetiana) in Danum Valley of Sabah, the Malaysian Borneo. It’s the second tallest tree in the world, just behind Hyperion, the 115.92-Metre-tall (380.3 Feet) Coast redwood in California’s Redwood National Park.
Climbing Menara, the tallest tropical tree in the world. Photo by Unding Jami
As the first and only recorded tropical tree exceeds 100 Metres, this tallest tropical tree is named as “Menara”, which means Tower in Malay language. Menara is also the tallest flowering plant on earth. In 2014, it’s spotted on a 33 degree angled slope by laser scanner of an airplane that surveyed the rainforest of Rhino Ridge near Danum Valley Field Centre (DVFC).
Aerial shot of Menara from a drone. The tree crown of Menara is 40 Metres wide (131 Feet). Photo by Alexander Shenkin
On 6 January 2019, to get the most accurate height reading, a team of professional tree climbers hiked up to a slope of 436-Metre above sea level to locate Menara. The team leader Unding Jami (Jamiluddin bin Jami) must climb up to the tree top and used tape measure to take the measurement from the top of the crown to the lowest part of the buttress.
Tape measure from tree top. This manual method can get the most accurate height of a tree. Photo by Unding Jami
The long straight stem posed a challenge, so Unding Jami took almost 3 hours to reach the top. The operation can be risky. There was one time Unding Jami climbed another flowering Dipterocarp and got 200 stings by a swarm of bees. Anyway, it made his day to confirm that Menara is the new record breaker of the tallest tropical tree in the world.
Height Comparison with Famous Landmarks
To get an idea of the scale of this towering tree, let’s have some fun to compare it with some well-known objects.
Height comparisons of Menara (100.8 Metres) with New York City’s Statue of Liberty (93 Metres), London’s Big Ben Clock Tower (96 Metres), Tun Mustapha Tower (122 Metres), and the Tallest Tree (115.92 Metres)
Past Record Holders of the Tallest Tropical Tree
All the past record-breakers are Yellow Meranti trees in first class forest reserve of Sabah. In fact, this is the fourth time Sabah broke its record on the tallest tropical tree in the world. Though these trees are no longer the titleholder, they are still ranked as top 20 in the list of highest trees in the world.
May 2018: 96.9M (318 Feet)
Discovered on 28 May 2018, this 96.9-Metre tree is about 9.5 Kilometre (5.9 Miles) from the entrance of Tawau Hills Park, a national park in Tawau. Tawau Hills Park is a popular place for swimming, bird-watching, hiking and hot springs.
Yellow meranti tree (species: Shorea faguetiana), is locally known as Seraya Siput Kuning. Photo by Unding Jami
Nov 2016: 93.0 Metres (305 Feet)
Known as “Lahad Datu”, this tree is located near Ulu Purut Research Station (UPRS) Camp, which is about 7 Kilometres (4.35 Miles) east of Danum Valley Field Centre (DVFC). Most media reported its height as 94.1 Metres (308.7 Feet), an estimated height by laser sensor. About 3 months later, an expedition team visited the tree. They carried out more precise measurement by tape and confirmed that the average height of Lahad Datu is 93.0 Metres.
Left: Lahad Datu tree with the people at its bottom. Right: Looking at the Lahad Datu tree from a helicopter. Photo by Robin Martin
Unding Jami measuring the tree. He is too high above to hear anything from the ground, so his team only can communicate with him by phone. Photo by Stephanie Law
Jul 2006: 88.32 Metres (289.8 Feet)
This tropical tree was reported by Dr. Roman Dial from Anchorage Alaska University in National Geographic Magazine (July 2006 edition), and it held the tallest tropical tree title for nearly 10 years. It is also the most photographed by the public because it’s only a 900-Metre walk away from the entrance of Tawau Hills Park, which is managed by Sabah Parks.
This Yellow Meranti tree in Tawau Hills Park is the longest record holder (Jul 2006 – Jun 2016) of the Tallest Tropical Tree in the world. At that time people thought 90 Metres was the height limit of tropical tree until they discovered the 100.8-Metre-tall Menara in 2014.
Left: 85.76-Metre-tall Menggaris tree (Pontiankak Putih Cantik). Photo by Brett Mifsud, Right: Menggaris tree (species: Koompassia excelsa) is also a Borneo tree famous for its freaking height. Note the little man next to it.
Interesting Facts about Shorea faguetiana
Yellow Meranti is the common name of Shorea faguetiana, a native tree species lives in Borneo, peninsular Malaysia and parts of Thailand.
It’s also called Seraya Siput Kuning locally (translated as yellow snail seraya) because of its snail-like exudation of dark brown or black dammar (resin) on the bole.
Left: snail-like resin of Yellow Meranti tree. Photo by Dr. Arthur Chung. Right: Shorea faguetiana is the tallest tree species of Borneo. Photo by John Sugau
There are about 138 Shorea species with 91 of them endemic to Borneo island.
Shorea faguetiana is classified as endangered on the red list of International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), the world’s most comprehensive inventory of the global conservation status of biological species.
80% of Shorea faguetiana population is gone in the past three generations due to logging and habitat loss.
Yellow Meranti tree produces five-winged fruits that spin like a helicopter when falling to the ground. This helps the seeds to travel farther away from their parent tree.
The wood from this tree is medium-hardwood suitable for making Plywood, crates and light furniture.
A huge yellow meranti tree can house a mini ecosystem consisting of over 1,000 types of insects, fungi, and plants.
Setting up the rope to climb Menara is difficult because its branches are so high above. Photo by Unding Jami
Next Tallest Tree?
Sabah rainforest is over 130 millions years old but not fully explored. For example, 70% of Maliau Basin is not studied. Therefore, I believe the next tallest tree is waiting to be found in future, most likely inside a fully-protected primary rainforest of eastern and central of Sabah, where trees can grow to ultimate height because of the fertile volcanic soil and abundant rainfall. I will keep the record updated here. Hopefully Sabah can keep singing “tinggi-tinggi pokok seraya” (means so high our yellow meranti tree) until the end, like our Mount Kinabalu in Sayang Kinabalu.
Photos of Shorea faguetiana by Dr. Arthur Chung (left), Unding Jami (middle), and John Pereira (right)
However, the height of tree is limited by mechanical, ecophysiological, and hydraulic constraints. The taller the tree, the harder for it to transport the water and nutrients from the root to the tree top (more explanation in this video). The biological limit restricts gymnosperm tree to a maximum height of 122 to 130 Metres (400 to 426.5 feet). Shorea faguetiana also needs some luck to grow super tall. With slender bole and large canopy, yellow meranti tree is “… almost like giant dandelions,” Professor Yadvinder Malhi, said in an interview. “They’re tall and thin, and they’re just trying to catch the wind.” Menara survives being snapped by strong wind because it’s sheltered by a ridge.
The Tallest Stamp of Malaysia
To feature world’s tropical tallest tree, POS Malaysia issued special new stamps for Menara on 29 Dec 2020. The miniature sheet is 180mm by 35mm (7.09 x 1.38 inches) in size, making it the largest (and tallest?) stamp of Malaysia! The 3-part folder can open up vertically and probably the longest stamp folder of Malaysia too. I love the design so much that I bought a few set.
Left: miniature sheet of Menara is the largest stamp of Malaysia. Note the words “Lahad Datu” in cancellation mark, it’s the district where Menara grows. Right: the long stamp folder for the World’s tallest tropical tree
Sabah has so many big and tall trees. No wonder some West Malaysians ask if Sabahans live on trees. I always answer Yes we do and you need an elevator to get to the top lol. For more fun facts about Borneo trees, you can read the 10 most interesting trees of Borneo.
Left: the front cover of stamp folder of World’s Tallest Tropical Tree (Pokok Tropika tertinggi di dunia). Right: Stamp sheet (10 pieces of 90-cent stamps). The picture in the stamp is the winged fruit of Shorea faguetiana
Do you fancy a holiday in Borneo rainforest? The top choice is to stay in Danum Valley of Sabah, which is located inside a 130-million-year-old virgin rainforest. The world famous Borneo Rainforest Lodge is a high-end resort in Danum Valley, luxurious accommodation but comes with 5-star price. Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge nearby offers the similar nature experience at a budget price and is considered as the second best choice.
About Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge (KDRL)
Built in 2014, Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge is a jungle lodge located in the buffer zone (edge) of the Danum Valley Conservation Area and part of 242,000-ha Ulu Segama Malua Forest Reserve (classified as Fully Protected Forest).
The accommodation of Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge
KDRL offers basic but comfortable chalet style accommodation and has 10 standard rooms (fan) and 10 deluxe rooms (air-conditioning) for tourists. 24-hour electricity is available in the lodge.
Dining hall of Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge
Kawag means cursed place. Locals believe that the forest there is resided by Bunian people, the elf-like supernatural beings usually live in remote forest or mountain. People who went there would have weird dream or gone missing. Don’t worry. Nowadays Kawag is a tourist-friendly destination.
Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge is located in the buffer zone of the Danum Valley
The rooms of Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge
One of Kawag’s highlight is good chance of seeing the highly endangered Bornean pygmy elephants. I saw a herd of them at the roadside while I was on the way to KDRL. When our van approached, the adult elephants formed a defensive circle with the calf in centre. Too bad I didn’t see any orangutan, which said to be abundant in Malua forest.
A group of elephants near Kawag. Note there is one with satellite collar for tracking of migration
During my stay I saw a wild bearded boar named Rudy foraged around the lodge, and a Malay civet hunted insects attracted by the light. Everything there reminds visitors that they are in the wild.
Meal served at restaurant of Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge
Nature-Based Activities
Though this lodge is surrounded by secondary forest, the forest is regenerated well and thick enough to house rich variety of flora and fauna. Kawag rainforest is characterised by younger trees and denser undergrowth but have almost everything a typical primary rainforest offers.
Crazy people lol. Photo says it all.
Therefore, you can have fun with many nature adventures such as jungle trekking, night safari, bird watching and river tubing, to fully experience the jungle. I really enjoyed my 3 days 2 night stay with KDRL. Thanks to their in-house guides, Mr. Donny and Ms Hana, for sharing the interesting stories of every animal and plant in Kawag.
1. Exploring Jungle
Birds and wildlife are thriving in Kawag. In day one, after lunch at the lodge, we went for a short guided walk at 3pm on the Kawag trail. We looked at the biggest tree in Kawag, which is a 80 to 100 years old Seraya tree (species: Shorea johorensis), a popular timber.
What we saw in hiking: Lantern bug, pygmy squirrel, Serpent Eagle and 3-color tree
Then we found a 3-in-1 trees, i.e. Kayu Malam, Seraya and Jati trees grow like they are hugging one another. The guide showed us a Bayur tree that produces salty sap, which was once used by villagers for cooking during the World War II, salt was scarce that period because Japanese seized from them. Sometimes deer chews the bark for salt supplement (a behavior called Salt Lick).
Locally known as Belian (means Diamond in local language), Borneo ironwood is one of the hardest and most valuable timbers. There is one that stands over 120 years in Kawag.
Some would be excited to see these, while other probably don’t.
Iconic Borneo wildlife such as gibbon, elephants, banteng (wild cattle), orangutan, deer and leopard cat have been sighted on the Kawag trail.
Herd of elephants in Danum Valley
During my two hiking, I spotted Trogon bird, Black & Yellow Broadbill, pygmy squirrel, giant orchid, Goshen Hawk, Barbler, and long tailed macaques. We also heard Great Argus not far away.
My friend in front bumped into an albino mouse deer (Kancil) before it ran away. Too bad I missed it. I was told that a limestone cave next to the trail has white bat. I didn’t see it but found some white tractor millipedes. This added more sense of mystery to this forest.
After dinner, we climbed up to the back of a pick-up truck for a night safari tour. The car drove slowly along the road. The guide used spotlight to scan the forest and bushes at roadside for nocturnal animals. It’s a very relaxing activity, we enjoyed the breeze and amazed by blue and green light fireflies pass-by occasionally.
Malay Civet spotted in night safari
Our guide did the hardwork of searching and found us sleeping Prinia, Ashy Tailor bird, flying Colugo, slow loris, etc. The jackpot is western tarsier, an odd looking small primate which has eyes bigger than its brain, and can turn its head almost 360 degrees. No wonder locals call it Ghost Monkey.
I saw Western Tarsier in my second visit to Kawag
The next morning, we walked to the higher ground to see sunrise shined over the misty forest. The trail condition of Kawag is ok overall, but a bit slippery after rain. And always watch out for leeches and fire ants.
Climb up to a hill to see the misty forest during sunrise
2. Bird Watching
In the morning you can walk to a 15-Meter-high observatory tower near the lodge. From the top, I saw Bornean Forktail, Serpeant Eagle and leaf bird, and heard loud morning call of Gibbon.
The 50-feet observatory tower in Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge
Based on a Bird Survey 2015 in Kawag Forest Scientific Expedition, over 100 species of birds can be found here. Just to list some cool ones, Great Argus, Scarlet-rumped trogon, fish owl, babbler, White-Crowned Shama, green leaf bird, black and red broadbill, sunbird, bulbul, crested hawk, oriental darter, oriole, and hornbill. 5 species of Pitta, the most colorful birds of Borneo, can be spotted in Kawag.
This observatory tower is a good spot for bird watching
Jason, my professional bird guide friend found Raptors, Hornbills, migratory Dark-sided Flycatcher, and Large Frogmouth in Kawag. You may check out his birdwatching blog.
Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge in the morning
If you are interested in bugs too, you would be happy to see Mantidfly, Hornet / wasp like praying mantis, strange looking goat moth, Rajah Brooke’s birdwing butterfly, endemic Borneo damselfly, and lantern bug. (Thanks Dr Arthur for the info)
3. Ali Baba Waterfall
Borneo forest is a warm and humid place, so a bath at their Ali Baba Waterfall is very welcomed. The 2.4-Kilometre walk to this waterfall takes about 1.5 hours.
Jungle trekking to the Ali Baba Waterfall
Fresh elephant dungs in the forest
We saw some fresh elephant dung along the trail. The trail was quite flat so it didn’t take much effort to reach Ali Baba Waterfall.
The gazebo next to Ali Baba Waterfall
The water of Ali Baba Waterfall is from the unpolluted rainforest
The tea color of Ali Baba Waterfall is from the tannin of rainforest plant
It’s dry season so this waterfall pond wasn’t deep for a swim but good enough for a dip. Do you know gold can be found in river of Danum Valley? I tried to see through the clear water hoping to find a gold nugget or two. The water appears golden color because of natural tannin from the plant rot in water.
Playing Tarzan lol
With me was a friendly European couple. The guy stood in the water and started giggling hysterically. Thinking that he found gold, I walked closer and found that he was actually excited with the small fishes nibbling his feet like giving a fish massage.
Something cute nibbling the feet of tourist
Fish massage in the pond of Ali Baba Waterfall
Different fish species in the water of Ali Baba Waterfall
We climbed up the cascading waterfall and saw two more waterfall ponds. One of them is 4 Meters deep. The handsome man is keen to be my model to play Tarzan in my photos. Thank you friend.
The waterfall pond of Ali Baba Waterfall
The waterfall pond of Ali Baba Waterfall is a bit deep. Note the safety rope in the water.
Tourist enjoys running stream of Ali Baba Waterfall
You can swim in the waterfall pond
How to get there
KDRL is located in Lahad Datu district, east coast of Sabah, Malaysia. No walk-in tourist to the lodge allowed. Without a permit for you and your vehicle, you will be blocked from entering this protected forest. You must book the accommodation with the operator Borneo Refugia in advance. Below is contact information and more details for you to find out more:
A 3-day-2-night full board tour package costs around MYR2,000 per person (about USD480), which includes accommodation, return transfer (between Lahad Datu Airport and KDRL), meals, guiding service, and permit. Check their Facebook before booking, sometimes they have deep discount promotion.
Long boardwalk to Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge (KDRL). Sometimes elephants walk under it.
They will pick you up at Lahad Datu airport, and drive 1 hour 45 minutes on 52-Kilometre gravel road to the lodge. You need to get your own flight ticket (from Kota Kinabalu to Lahad Datu) via MASwings airlines, which is available every day.
Personally, I think Taliwas Forestry & Recreation Area (or Taliwas Park) in Lahad Datu is the Best Camping Site in Sabah. Whether you like rainforest, river, waterfall or lake, Taliwas Park has all these. The park is also very well-managed (by Yayasan Sabah Foundation) and camper-friendly.
Pic: beautiful Pandan Lake of Taliwas Park
However, Taliwas Park is not commercialized, so very few hear about it. Actually I learnt about Taliwas Park by accident, when I was cycling there last year.
Last year I went to Taliwas Park for a cycling trip. I did a few photo-shooting near the camping ground, because the rainforest there looked so fresh and lively under the morning rays. Taliwas Park itself is a fully-protected forest reserve.
Pic: check out the tall and dense trees above our heads!
We followed a gravel trail from the campsite of Taliwas. In about 300 Meters, we arrived an open space and Pandan Lake was just in front of us.
I was so excited about the scenery (really, because there aren’t many nature lakes in Sabah). The weather was perfect, I love the reflection of lush trees and blue sky in the lake, so I took a lot of pictures. You can click the photos to enlarge them.
Pandan Lake is a great place for picnic. Visitors also come here for bird watching, wildlife sighting and kayaking.
Pic: a huge and old strangler fig tree in the park
Below is a video of Pandan Lake:
My “discovery” of Taliwas Park was started with a cycling tour with Bike and Tours in Lahad Datu. We started at Silam junction which led to a long gravel road flanked by dense wood, oil palm plantation and village houses. For safety, a 4WD will accompany the cyclists.
Pic: cycling in the countryside of Lahad Datu
This area is very near to the forest reserves. If you are lucky, you would see herd of Bornean pygmy elephants on the road. The cycling distance was about 20 KM and we stopped at Taliwas Park for a dinner.
Pic: Tisha busy cooking food in Taliwas Park
Then you can enjoy a candle light dinner next to the river of Taliwas. There is no restaurant in the park, so Simon and Tisha (from Bike and Tours) prepared the food and setup the table for us. They made some BBQ seafood, mashed potato and chicken wings, which were really delicious. It’s a very creative way of dining for honeymooners lol.
Camping Ground & Amenities
Ok, let’s see more about Taliwas Forestry & Recreation Area (Taliwas Park), so you know why it is an excellent camping site. Taliwas Park is 39 KM away from Lahad Datu town (see Location Map). The road 20 KM before Taliwas Park is unsealed and can be muddy in wet season, so you better go there by 4-Wheel Drive (or by cycling like what I did). The park has water and electricity supply.
Pic: entrance of Taliwas Forestry & Recreation Area
Pic: the camping ground of Taliwas Forestry & Recreation Area is vast and can accommodate hundred of campers.
Pic: the river in Taliwas Park is shallow and clean, very suitable for a swim. The water is so clear that I can see many big fishes swimming. Sorry, we are not allowed to catch them.
Pic: the toilet and bathroom of Taliwas Forestry & Recreation Area
Pic: the cooking and dining area of Taliwas Forestry & Recreation Area
Pic: Barbecue grill stand and bench in the park
Pic: the activity area, where group of campers can gather here to do some activities.
Pic: they even have a small stage for function
Pic: shelter in Taliwas Forestry & Recreation Area
Pic: verandah
Pic: above is the layout map of Taliwas Park, you can click it to enlarge.
Pic: office of Taliwas management (named Danum Valley Field Centre)
The management of Taliwas Park also has an office opposite to Lahad Datu Airport. Below is their opening hours: Mon-Thu: 8am-1pm, 2pm-5pm Friday: 8am-11.30am, 2pm-5pm Sat & Sat: closed
Taliwas Forestry & Recreation Area has a Facebook page too if you want to in touch with them online.
Please note Malaysia school holiday is the peak season for schools and nature clubs to organise holiday camp or educational tours in Taliwas Park. The park can be crowded and noisy during that period. Anyway, the park is quite empty in other times.
Above is the list of services and charges (fee in Malaysian currency (RM), RM1 ≈ USD$0.33) I copied from their Facebook page, quite exhaustive. They really know what campers need and cover everything from charter transport, renting camping tent, guide service, cooking utensils, packed meals, pillow, sleeping bag, etc. The camper almost can come here without bringing anything (except some clothing to change, cash and personal toiletries).
Whenever people talk about forest conservation, they would think that only the inland rainforest is worth protecting. Malaysian estate developers love to build condominium and resorts along seaside, as the sea view property is more marketable. As a result, there are very few pristine “beach forest” (coastal forest) left in Sabah, and most of us don’t know that the coastal forest of Borneo is also an important part of our forest ecology matrix.
Pic: Tumunong Hallu is at the coast of Darvel Bay, far behind is Mt. Silam.
Tumunong Hallu Conservation Area, which is along the coast of Darvel Bay, Lahad Datu (see location map), is one of the best examples of Borneo coastal forest and the first coastal conservation area. This 5.8-KM² fully protected forest is managed by Yayasan Sabah Foundation for research and education purposes. They consider opening the area for tourism too in future, as the beautiful beaches there are suitable for recreational activities. For now, it is a hidden treasure.
Thanks to Bike and Tours, I learnt about Tumunong Hallu last year. Tumunong Hallu is about 20 KM from Lahad Datu town and accessible by road, but we go by boat so we could cruise around the islands of Darvel Bay. We saw mangrove forest, water villages, fish farms and fishing platform on the way.
Then a marine police patrol approached our boat. I sweated a bit because I thought we entered the restricted area.
Well, it happens that they know our boatman and would like him to help sending something to Tumunong Hallu, phew…
I also saw a lot of fishermen and fishing structure named Selambau (see photo below). Seem like everyone lives in Darvel Bay fish for a living.
Pic: Selambau fishing structure built by Sea Bajau fishermen
The Beach of Tumunong Hallu
After an hour, we arrived the beach of Tumunong Hallu.
Pic: Tumunong Hallu and its beautiful sea water.
Since you can view the following photos, I don’t need to write too much to describe how inviting and tranquil the sea water is…
The seabed is rocky with layer of smooth silt, and the beach is covered by dark sand, all these are the characteristics of forested beach.
Besides the land, Tumunong Hallu also includes the sea area with rich marine biodiversity such as coral reef, and two nearby islands, i.e. Saranga and Tabun Islands, into its 1,600-Hectare conservation area.
Pic: shelter and kitchen near the beach. This place is nice for camping too.
Pic: The shore is carpeted by lush Silam grass.
Hiking
The researches show that Tumunong Hallu has 81 plant species comprising coastal and inland vegetation. The best way to explore the interesting mixture of mangrove and dipterocarp forest here is by jungle trekking.
We tried the shorter nature trail that is only 3 KM one way (then taking a boat back to starting point). If you have more time, you can hike the longer trail to the hilltop, which takes 4 to 5 hours, to have a nice view of the beach and forest.
Two forestry rangers, Yapdi and Azwan, were accompanying us and share some interesting facts about this forest. The trail is easy to walk and the jungle is not warm and humid as the rainforest, due to the sea breeze.
The soil here is quite fertile, evidenced by a big earthworm I found on forest floor.
Pic: we took a short climb to Ara Viewpoint, which is a knoll near to a beach.
There was strong scent of Kayu Malam tree in the air of this slope. This wood is a famous aphrodisiac among local ladies if I’m not mistaken.
Pic: Nova cooling off on Ara Viewpoint. Note the dense Pandanus trees at her background.
Pic: nice sight from Ara Viewpoint
We also checked out the Nunuk Beach not far away.
Pic: Nunuk Beach
Pic: a lonely mangrove tree
The coastal forest is not just a collection of dull trees. Among mangrove, seaside hill and beach forests, there are some interesting and unique trees, such as the Keruing tree below.
Pic: this Keruing tree looks like being vandalized. Actually the “cut” is a natural feature of its bark.
Pic: the tree in the coastal forest can be big and tall too, like the Nunuk Tree shown in photo above.
Pic: beautiful white stripes on the bark of Nunuk Tree.
Pic: Bao-Bao tree, a softwood with white bark
If there are trees, there must be wildlife. I didn’t see a lot of wildlife, but studies say some birds (e.g. Great slaty woodpecker) and mammals (Long-tailed Macaque, Barking deer, Sambar deer) are the residents of this forest. We were hungry after one hour of hiking, so we took a boat back to the starting point for lunch.
Amenities at Tumunong Hallu
As this beach is not frequented by tourists, the facilities are basic but good enough for camping. There is no resort, restaurant and shop here. If you want to cook, you have to bring your own cooking utensils and gas stove.
Pic: shelter and a kitchen (at the right)
Pic: toilet and changing room
Pic: small kitchen with sink and water supply, benches and table for dining.
Pic: enjoying lunch with Nova, my partner in crime, and Simon from Bike and Tours. Don’t know why. Food always tastes great at seaside.
Pic: Yummy Indian food prepared by Tisha and Simon from Bike and Tours, the curry and sour vegetables were so appetizing… They really know how to cook and present the food. This friendly couple receives a lot of positive feedbacks at TripAdvisor.
Hey, we were at the beach so we must soak ourselves in warm tropical sea water to conclude the tour. The whole beach was ours to enjoy. Overall, it’s a wonderful experience.
The video below shows the beach of Tumunong Hallu:
Even though Tumunong Hallu is not a popular destination now, being unfamous doesn’t mean that it has no potential. If it is open to public in future, you must visit this place. At the moment, you can arrange a tour with Bike and Tours for a trip to Tumunong Hallu.
Photos taken in Lahad Datu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
Confucius said, “by nature we desire food and sex.” Therefore, people is passionate in looking for new food as well as sex partner. LOL, ok, probably this is not what he meant, but you would agree that Malaysians never stop exploring for tasty new food. That’s why we ask, almost every day, “what to eat huh?” though there are dozens of restaurants around.
Pic: Rumpun Selera Restaurant
Besides delicious food, we are also keen to try interesting food, especially those with odd name. I bet the first time you ordered “Banana Boat” (ice-cream dessert) was because of its name. Same here when I heard the name Gear Box Soup, when I was having lunch in Rumpun Selera Restaurant in Lahad Datu last month.
Pic: Gear Box Soup
Actually Gear Box Soup (Sup Tulang Lutut in Malay language) are cattle bones boiled with onions and other spices in soup. Though Sup Tulang (Bone Soup) is common in Malay and Indian restaurants, Gear Box Soup is served in larger quantity and the soup nearly as creamy as stew. It costs RM10* (≈USD3) per bowl and only available in weekends (Saturday & Sunday). *As of Dec 2013
By looking at the photos above, you should know why it is called Gear Box Soup. They erect a big bone and top it with a calamansi fruit (can add its sour juice into soup like vinegar).
Pic: you can shift gears if you want to, lol
The beef soup is thicker than normal Sup Tulang. I think they don’t add any MSG cubes so the price is doubled the normal price of Sup Tulang. Yes, the flavor is really rich. You can eat the meat and tendon attached on the bones, but they are a bit chewy.
Besides the soup, another best part is to suck the juicy bone marrow out of the bones. I didn’t do this because bone marrow is high in Cholesterol (why yummy food is always high in Cholesterol!!?).
Pic: Rumpun Selera Restaurant of Lahad Datu
Below is the location and contact of the Rumpun Selera Restaurant. They open 24-hour every day. Btw, their food is halal (Muslim-friendly). Address: Lot No.332, MDLD 7234, Sri Perdana, Phase 3, Jalan Silam, Lahad Datu, Sabah, Malaysia (see Location Map) Facebook:Rumpun Selera Mobile Phone:+60 11-3600 9001 E-mail:rumpunhikmah@yahoo.com.my (Please keep in mind Gear Box Soup is only available during weekends)
This restaurant is full of people during meal time but not all of them coming for Gear Box Soup. The restaurant serves great variety of nice food such as Rojak (Mixed fruit) and Soto (Soup Noodle).
Pic: Chinese-style fritters in ball shape (for Rojak).
Rojak means “mixture”. In Peninsular Malaysia, Rojak means different sliced fruits topped with sweet grounded peanut sauce. In Sabah, we also mix Rojak with Beef (Rojak Daging), Chicken (Rojak Ayam) and Noodle (Rojak Mee).
Pic: Rojak Ayam
This is my Rojak Ayam. Its photo may not look appetizing, but Rojak is one of the favorite food of Malaysians.
Now you know a new food to try out in Lahad Datu. Please share with me if you know any other interesting must-try food in Lahad Datu.
Photos taken in Lahad Datu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
Located in east coast of Sabah, Tabin Wildlife Reserve is one of the best kept lowland rainforest of Borneo. I don’t want to hide the fact that most lowland of Sabah is now blanketed by oil palm. Tabin is surrounded by sea of oil palm, making it an oasis of the ecology desert (oil palm). In fact, this 112,000-hectare protected forest reserve harbors some of the rarest and endangered Bornean animals such as Pygmy Elephant, Sumatran Rhinoceros and Orangutan.
Last month I visited Tabin for 3 days. Though large part of Tabin is secondary rainforest being logged in the past, the forest regenerates really well over the decades. Tabin also has 9,000 hectares undisturbed primary forest known as the Core Area. Do you know that there are nearly 1,000 tree species in 50-hectare area of Borneo rainforest (Temperate Forest is up to 100 species only)?
Macaques
Guess what was the first animal I saw in Tabin. Can you recognise the “aliens” below?
Pic: “Aliens” in Tabin
LOL they are actually the butt of pig-tailed macaques, a common but cheeky monkey. At the left is a male with its testicles, the sexy red butt at the right belongs to a female ready to mate.
In late afternoon, you would see dozens of macaques gathering on the ground feeding, socializing and grooming one another. Tabin Resort doesn’t feed them so they keep a distance from human. But you better lock the door and leave nothing outside your room, because these monkey know how to open door and ransack your stuffs.
I was surprised to see a long-tailed macaque among a herd of pig-tailed macaques as if it’s one of the members. Wonder if both species speak the same language.
Pic: Bornean Gibbon foraging on a fruit tree. You can always hear their “whoop-whoop” loud and long call early in the morning at Tabin.
There are 9 primate species in Tabin, but gorilla isn’t on the list (though the movie says King Kong is from Borneo). The most famous primate here is Orangutan. Tabin is one of the releasing spots for rehabilitated orphan orangutan from Sepilok. To ensure they can survive in the wild, rangers will track and evaluate the new comers for 2 weeks.
Tabin Wildlife Resort
Tabin Wildlife Resort is the only accommodation and tour operator in Tabin Wildlife Reserve. To visit Tabin, you can book a full board tour package with them (Accommodation, meals, transport, activities and guide services are included). They also offer special tours such as bird-watching and frog camp. Please note walk-in tourist might not be entertained.
Pic: River Lodge of Tabin Resort
After an hour of bumpy ride on 44-Kilometres of unsealed road from Lahad Datu town, I checked-in to River Lodge of Tabin Resort around noon. River Lodge is just next to Lipad River and you would see foraging animals at the river bank sometimes.
The chalet looks small from outside, but the room is really spacious and completed with attached bathroom/toilet, private balcony, air conditioner, ceiling fan and hot water shower. The accommodation is comfortable and electricity supply is available 24×7. I’m happy.
Pic: Hill Lodge of Tabin Resort
For honeymooners, Hill Lodge offers more luxurious and private space, so nobody can hear what you both busy doing in your room. I think it’s great for family too.
Pic: Sunbird Cafe of Tabin Resort
Sunbird Cafe is where I have my buffet meals (and free flow of coffee) and it is the gathering point for all activities. The cafe has Wifi so you can check your Facebook, but the line would be slow if too many guests are sharing the connection.
Dusk Drive & Night Safari
Compared to my jungle trips in other places of Sabah, the activities at Tabin are really leisure, nothing made me gasping for air there. But I sweated a lot, as rainforest is warm and humid, when the dense trees trap the heat and moisture under their canopy during daytime.
We started our Dusk Drive at 5pm. Unlike Africa, where you can see hundred of animals on open grassland. In Borneo, you need to look quite hard for the animals hiding among the dense wood. Luckily, the guide does the job for us. A napping monitor lizard high on a tree set off the excitement.
As the habitat of about 260 lowland bird species (FYI, oil palm estate only hosts 9 to 12 species), Tabin is a favorite destination of bird-watchers. Out of 8 hornbill species in Tabin, I saw 4 of them (Oriental Pied Hornbill, Rhinoceros Hornbill, Wrinkled Hornbill and Bushy-crested Hornbill) during my stay. If you are a hardcore birder, they will bring you to Core Area (virgin forest) to look for Blue-headed Pitta and Blue-Banded Pitta, which are endemic to Borneo.
Pic: Crested-serpent eagle is the most common eagle here. We also spotted Wallace’s Hawk-eagle and Changeable Hawk-eagle.
Pic: Bornean Falconet
The highlight is Bornean Falconet (a.k.a. White-fronted Falconet), which is endemic to Sabah and the smallest raptor in the world (about the size of a palm). There was a group of three perching on a tree very far away from us. Fortunately, our guide let us to have a better look with his high-power telescope. I tried to photograph them through the scope but the photo was blur, well. 🙁
Then we heard a loud roar from the elephants deep in the forest beside us. “It was a mother calling its calf”, our guide said. Though there are 200 to 300 elephants in Tabin, sighting of them is not guaranteed. We waited there for over 15 minutes but no sign of them coming near. When I almost gave up, two Bornean pygmy elephants emerged from the wood behind our truck! After wandering on the gravel road for a while, both of them headed to a neighboring plantation for juicy young shots of oil palm. Somehow this smart mammal figures out the time when electrical fence is being turned off lol.
The daylight was out soon and lot of fireflies flickering on the trees, but we didn’t stop the fun drive. On the way back to resort, our guide turned on the spotlight and here we went for a night safari. Besides a pair of sleeping Rhinoceros Hornbill on the tree, we saw other nocturnal animals such as Common Palm Civet and Leopard Cats. We were also watching a red giant flying squirrel took off from a branch, it could glide 100 Metres from tree to tree, we were told.
Pic: a Buffy Fish Owl. A Brown Wood Owl was nearby too.
Night Walk
Dusk drive is cool but it would be more thrilling to walk around and search for other forest dwellers in the dark. After dinner, everyone grabbed a flashlight and explored deep in the jungle. We pointed our light to the shrubs, tree top, forest ground, tree bark, etc. and came across something interesting.
Pic: Crematogaster inflata, these ants look like carrying a “gold” knapsack, which is the enlarged metapleural gland that can secrete whitish defensive fluid and their bites are very itchy. Thank you Arthur Chung for the ID.
A single tree of Borneo can house 1,000 insect species. There are at least 50,000 insect species in Tabin, which is enough for you to explore for a lifetime.
Pic: mushroom growing on an elephant dung. Everything in rainforest is recycled and exist for a reason.
Pic: a small snake waiting quietly for its prey.
Pic: a giant river toad covered with irregular bumps. The big glands behind its eyes secrete poisonous fluid so don’t touch it!
Lipad Mud Volcano
The next morning we went to the Lipad Mud Volcano, something that makes Tabin special. The jungle trail to the mud volcano is 700 Metres and requires only 20 minutes trekking. We saw some fresh and old elephant dungs along the way, an evidence that elephants frequent this area. Anyway, I only found a tiny mouse deer and a few forest leeches.
Pic: a coral fungus
Pic: the Lipad Mud Volcano is as big as a football field and it is still growing. This might be the largest mud volcano of Borneo. Can you spot the tiny people in the photo?
Pic: elephant tracks at mud volcano
Animals love mud volcano as it is rich in sodium and calcium, the vital minerals that are not readily available in their normal diet. That’s why this is a good spot for wildlife sighting, as animals come here regularly for “salt lick” in late afternoon.
We love mud volcano too, not for salt lick but for skin care. Some says the mud is really good for skin so we collect some for facial SPA later.
Some prefers to enjoy the muddy face mask on the spot.
However, the outer ring of mud volcano is dry mud mixed with coarse sand. To collect the finest and silky wet mud, you have to go to the sources located in the centre, where you can see fresh mud burping and bubbling up from the ground. The mud in centre is deep and soft, so your shoes would be trapped in it. Some even lost their pant here (yes, that happened before).
Pic: the 5-storey observation tower next to the mud volcano. You can overnight there for more animal sighting.
Pic: making handprint certificate with volcano mud.
Lipad Waterfall
After getting ourselves dirty in mud volcano, we got on our truck and moved to Lipad Waterfall. The nature trail to the waterfall is only 400 Metres but we needed to cross a river as deep as our waist level.
Because of the heavy rain the night before, the water looked a bit murky, but it was clean and cooling. We washed away our mud at the river and took a dip in the waterfall pool.
Pic: Lipad Waterfall, pristine and unpolluted.
Other Activities
There are more things to do in Tabin. Just to list a few here.
You may check out the exhibition in Trogon Hall gallery, where they display some photographs and information of Borneo bio-diversity.
Pic: elephant skull in the Gallery
After a long day of trekking, it’s time to relax your tired feet by trying out the Rainforest Foot Soak at Eagle’s Nest. Various traditional tropical herb and plants (e.g. Kaffir lime leaf, Aloe Vera, Lemongrass, Betel Leaf, Pandanus Leaf, Galangal, Tumeric) are put in the hot water, and you can rub your feet against the smooth pebbles at bottom.
So that’s my Tabin trip. You can see that our rainforest is an eco-treasure worths protecting and preserving. The good news is – Sabah government and NGOs are working together to connect all the isolated forest of Sabah, so wildlife can migrate freely among them for food and mates. In future, Tabin forest reserve will be part of the Heart of Borneo.
Local gluttonous eaters love giant grouper, not because of its quantity but the great taste. Giant grouper is known as Ikan Keratang locally and the largest bony fish lives in the tropical sea up to 100 Metres deep. Some thinks giant grouper is a normal grouper that grows oversized when it gets older. In fact, Giant Grouper is just a big fish (Species: Epinephelus lanceolatus) under grouper family.
Giant Grouper can grow up to 2.7 Metres in length, weighs over 400 Kg and live more than 50 years old. The largest record of giant grouper in Sabah is the one captured in Lahad Datu in 2011, which is 2.286 Metres long (7.5 feet) and weighs 204 Kg. This fish is so huge that it freaks out our scuba divers sometimes, as its big mouth seems to be able to swallow a man in one gulp. Luckily, human isn’t on its food menu. Instead, it is a delicacy to seafood lovers.
Pic: this giant grouper is over 150 Kg in weight (might cost over USD3,000)!
Westerners who love tuna may not know giant grouper very well. However, giant grouper is a highly sought after seafood by local and overseas Chinese. Each Kg can cost over RM65 (≈USD20). Chinese calls Giant Grouper as 鲈趸 (Lú dǔn).
Giant Grouper is abundant in the sea of Lahad Datu and Semporna at east caost of Sabah. Due to overfishing, huge giant grouper is getting rare now, as most of them are caught before they can grow big. That’s why it is listed as a vulnerable species by IUCN.
Kedai Makan Gembira (大家乐茶餐室)
The funny thing is, I never tried giant grouper (since it is expensive and not always available in seafood restaurant). Thanks to Tisha and Simon from Bike and Tours, I got the first taste of giant grouper in Kedai Makan Gembira, a coffee shop in outskirt of Lahad Datu.
Two months ago, after cycling around Lahad Datu, Tisha suggested to have lunch at Kedai Makan Gembira.
Kedai Makan Gembira means “Eat Happily Shop”, even their dog also looks so happy lol.
Then we found out the shop was close on Monday, but Tisha kept on persuading the owner to open the shop for us. I was wandering why we didn’t go somewhere else for lunch, as there were many other restaurants opened in town.
Guess what was waiting for us? Jenny, the shop owner, looks so small next to the giant grouper!
The whole fish is edible and no part is wasted, from the meat, skin, scales, head, belly, gut, fin, maw, liver to its mouth. You may have the fish steamed, fried, stewed, etc. You choose it.
Pic: the shop was empty as it was off day. I felt like a VIP booking the whole place.
Check out the big fish scales of giant grouper. (Oh, I need to clean my fingernails) :-p
The food menu of the coffee shop. Nevermind if you can’t read Chinese. They can explain it to you. Basically it’s giant grouper served in different way. For example, you can have the fish with soup or noodle.
Pic: fish lip soup
We started with the fish lip soup. From its nice color, I already could tell it was yummy.
Pic: close-up of the fish lip
The fish lip got some meat and not bony at all. The soup is thick with fleshy flavor. The meat tasted fresh, tender and “creamy”. A surprise, because the meat of big fishes are usually harder and coarse.
Jenny is such a good cook. The more I ate, the more I wanted, the quicker I ate, as if I was starving for days.
Pic: fish head soup, the signature dish of this shop.
When I was still enjoying the fish lip soup, the fish head soup came. Real foodies always aim for the fish head and belly. They say these are the parts where the best taste of seafood concentrated. Personally I think fish head is too fishy, but this one is not. The ginger and green onion remove the excessive fishy smell, and the tomato and a bit of Chinese wine enhance the sweetness of fish, making it more appetizing.
Look at the translucent fish lips and skin, they are so rich in collagen. I bet I’ll look 10 years younger if I eat these every day, haha!
Besides giant grouper, I also tried their Kam Hiong Tiger Prawn (甘香老虎虾 in Chinese). This dish smelled really good because of the curry spices. The tiger prawns are mildly spicy, sweet and chewy, another must try.
Fried fish egg, my favorite always! Whenever I eat fish, I’m super happy to see even a small pieces of fish eggs comes with it. Seeing so many big chunks of fried fish eggs really made my mouth shivering due to excitement.
Jenny also cooked some stir-fried organic vegetable for us. Crunchy.
Pic: The shop also serves freshwater eel (黄鳝 in Chinese) that looks like snake. Many don’t dare to eat it, but eel is one of the best food for regeneration of cells, great for healing wound.
Below is the contact of Kedai Makan Gembira if you want to try the “ultimate seafood”. Please note that giant grouper is not a common caught, so it is not always available in the shop. To avoid disappointment, call them to check before you visit. Address (See location map): Batu 4, Sandakan Highways, Lahad Datu, Sabah, Malaysia. Facebook:KedaiMakanGembira Tel:+60 16-8897761, +60 13-5439468 (Jenny Wong) Opening Hours: Tue – Sun: 6:30am – 5pm
Kedai Makan Gembira Serves No Pork.
Photos taken in Lahad Datu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
