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Climbing Mount Wullersdorf, the Land of Crystals and Red River

Imagine you are an adventurer in a role-playing game and given a quest that says, “Find the magic crystals on an extinct volcano mountain, where you will traverse through a dwarf forest with blood-red rivers, mossy rocks and flesh-eating plants.” This scene matches Mount Wullersdorf perfectly. Time for me to walk out of my virtual world and steps into the uncharted territory in Mount Wullersdorf as a real adventurer.

The reddish tea colour stream in Wullersdorf forest is the result of the tanning effect leached out from the thick dead leaves and debris that cover the heath forest ﬂoor. The water is acidic but safe to drink.

In terms of geology and vegetation, Mount Wullersdorf is special because it is:-

An extinct volcano, a geological heritage of Sabah
Heath forest with red river and rare plants
A world of natural crystals in Sabah

From left: volcanic rocks, crystals and pitcher plant of Mount Wullersdorf

Itinerary

The following is the itinerary of climbing Mount Wullersdorf. It is a day trip with a hiking distance of 7 kilometres. You must book the tour in advance.
7:30am Gather at Dewan Kampung Balung Cocos (Tawau)
8:00am Depart to the Control Post (Sabah Forestry Department) of Wullersdorf, the starting point of the climb
8:30am Start climbing after registration and briefing
9:30am-10:00am Reach the first peak after 30-40 min (2 km)
11:00am-12:00pm Reach the second peak (Wullersdorf Peak) after 4 km. Rest and lunch on summit
1:00pm Hike back to the Control Post via shortcut (1 km for 40 min)
2:30pm End of tour

Walk-through

Are you ready for the epic quest adventurer? Or you can watch the 6-minute video below:

The height of Mount Wullersdorf is 430 metres (1,411 ft) above sea level. The one-way distance to the highest peak is 6 kilometres, which takes about 3 to 4 hours. There is a 1-kilometre shortcut from the peak back to the starting point, so in total it’s a 7-km loop trail.

Going to the Starting Point

Mount Wullersdorf is located in a Class-1 (fully protected) forest in Kunak (Tawau Division). To enter the mountain, you need a permit from the Sabah Forestry Department. So I get a local agent who can get the permit and arrange the climbing trip for me. Just a few messages back and forth with the agent and I get the booking done. Easy.

Hop on the pick up truck that sent us to the starting point about 15 minutes away

I meet my guides at Dewan Balung Cocos (Balung Cocos Village Community Hall) around 7:30am. Mr. Eady and Pakri are my guides, who live in this village. Also joining me are Mr. Aidil and Ms Zura, the hikers from Tawau. It’s drizzling in the morning. I’m concern about the gloomy weather but Pakri says that the red river is more beautiful when it has more water.

The Control Post of Mt. Wullersdorf Forest Reserve is the starting point of our climb to Wullersdorf Peak. Visitors need to register before the hike. You can be fined RM10,000 for illegal entry.

We hop on our pick-up truck to depart to the starting point of the climb. It’s a bumpy ride on a gravel road in an oil palm plantation. After 10 to 15 minutes, we reach the control post of Sabah Forestry Department. Besides us, there is team of 20 members from Lahad Datu Hash House guided by another agent, Uncle Mul.

About Wullersdorf

Mount Wullersdorf is part of Mount Wullersdorf Forest Reserve, which is 8,137 hectares in size. It’s linked with five other adjacent forest reserves to form a 64,953.74 Ha of Ulu Kalumpang-Wullersdorf Sustainable Forest Management (SFM) Project. The Class-1 Ulu Kalumpang Forest Reserve which covers an area of 50,736 hectares is the biggest forest reserve under this project. This SFM Project is certified by the Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC) as a well-managed forest.

Mount Wullersdorf Forest Reserve is a fully protected Class-1 forest. Government and WWF is trying to restore the degraded and fragmented forest to re-establish forest connectivity between Mt. Wullersdorf and Ulu Kalumpang Forest Reserves, so wildlife can move freely in the connected forests for more resources.

These forest reserves are also the habitat of threatened animals in Borneo such as orangutan, Bornean Pygmy Elephant, Bornean Sun Bear and Bornean Gibbon. Iconic birds like hornbills and Crested Fireback also nest there. Under good conservation, the mountains also protect the headwaters and water catchment areas that are source of water for Tawau and Kunak Districts. The rangers there also mention the sighting of a golden rat (I assume it’s a Malayan weasel or Yellow Throated Marten), and the tracks of a baby Sumatran rhino many years ago. Sadly this rhino species is declared extinct in the wild in Malaysia in 2015.

0 to 2 KM

After registration and briefing, we start to hike at 8:30am. FYI, you can use the toilet at the control post before and after the climb. The first 250 metres is a walk on flat ground covered with tall grasses and shrubs. About 10 minutes later we reach a manmade pond, which marks the start of the loop trail at foothill.

The first 250 metres of the hike. We started walking at 8:30am.

The trees are tall in the beginning and their dense canopy blocks the rain. I see a green path ahead. It’s a rugged riverbed trail littered with green mossy rocks, with red-colored stream flowing between them. The red water and green rock form a very striking contrast, the scenery is out of this world. No wonder they call it the “Lost World of Balung“.

The green mossy rocks and red streams form beautiful contrast along the trail

We climb up and down on these mossy rocks to ascend. Some of the rocks are slippery. It will help a lot if your hiking shoes have good grip, because most of the time we walk on river rocks. Overall, the trail is not really steep, but climbing hundred of rocks will slow you down. I’m the slowest one as I’m already too busy taking pictures in the first two kilometres.

Red River (Local Name: Sungai Merah)

This side of Mount Wullersdorf is dominated by heath forest, which grows on sandy soil with poor nutrients. With infertile environment, plants in heath forest are usually rich in tannins as a defense, which make them toxic or indigestible to plant eaters.

Over 50% of the trail is moving up along a river that is full of mossy boulders with tea-color stream flowing between them.

However, tannin is hard to break down. When water drains through thick dead leaves and debris that cover the forest ﬂoor, the tannins and humic acids leach through the porous sandy substrate, finding their way into streams, and dye the water with brownish tea color.

Foaming on the streams is common, due to the saponin and humic composition in the water

Such tea-colored water is also well-known for its foaming nature, probably due to the saponin and humic composition originated from the peat of heath forest. The water is a bit acidic but safe to drink after boiling.

Zura blowing the foam of red river for fun, as if she is in a bubble bath.

We are excited to see a few river rocks that have cracks with crystals inside them. The guides say there are more crystals on Wullersdorf Peak.

First Peak

There are two peaks to conquer in our climb. The first peak is only 2 km away. When the peak is getting near, we move away from the river trail and walk up a slope with mild steepness. I notice there are some whitish volcanic rocks on the higher ground. We arrive the first peak at 10am.

An Ancient Volcano

Mount Wullersdorf is an extinct volcano. Such volcanic landscape is only found in Southeastern part of Sabah, where volcanic eruption occurred between 1 to 9 million years ago. Even today we can find the remnants of volcanism in Sabah such as Columnar Basalt at Balung River (Tawau) and Bohey Dulang Island in Semporna.

A tree full of pitcher plant before the first peak. You can easily tell that they are *Nepenthes reinwardtiana* by the two dots on their inner walls.

From Miocene to late Pleistocene, a series of volcanisms creates the major mountainous backbone of the Tawau mountains, which include Mount Wullersdorf, Mount Maria, and Bombalai Hill. The earlier volcanic rocks of andesitic and dacitic composition formed a line of composite volcanoes from Mount Magdalena to Mount Wullersdorf and Mount Pock at Semporna District.

Picture of the first Wullersdorf Peak and a barkless tree nearby

Most climbers wouldn’t realise that Mount Wullersdorf is an extinct volcano since most of the traces and features of volcanism are covered up by dense forest nowadays. I wonder how many people know there are at least 10 extinct volcanoes in Tawau.

Two variants of *Nepenthes ampullaria* near the peak of Wullersdorf. These cute pitcher plants have wide open mouth to collect leaf debris as nutrients.

Anyway, it’s easy to spot many pitcher plants around the first peak. Nepenthes ampullaria likes to grow in damp area under trees, where it can collect leaf debris as food with its wide open mouth. Nepenthes reinwardtiana (green variant) is another common pitcher plant on this mountain.

2rd to 6th KM

After a short break on the first peak we proceed to the second peak about 4 km away. The trail between the first and second peak is mainly jungle trail with more even surface, which I enjoy more. The peak area is heath forest, a forest type that covers only 2 to 3% of Borneo island, the home to the largest heath forests in Southeast Asia.

Milestone signages that tell us how many metres we have walked. The words are misleading because they make it sounds like a count down, which is not.

Heath Forest (Kerangas)

In contrast to the typical Borneo rainforest with towering trees, heath forests are characterized by shorter, pole-sized trees that are mostly lower than 20 metres with a stem diameter of 10-20 cm. The short-statured trees are a result of inherently infertile, acidic, white sandy soils.

Tropical heath forest of Wullersdorf forest. The soil is sandy and infertile so the vegetation is thinner.

The Iban people of Sarawak call heath forests as “Kerangas”, which means “forest with underlying soils that cannot grow rice”. Only specialized plants can survive such soils with poor nutrients. Though the plant diversity of heath forest is lower than rainforest, it has higher numbers of rare and endemic tree species with high conservation value.

Rhododendron flowers and an unknown fruit on the peak of Wullersdorf

Borneo has the widest variety of heath forest in Asia. Lowland heath forests (below 1,000 metres above sea level) like Wullersdorf are found inland on sandstone plateaus and cuesta formations on the hillsides.

Last 500 metres to the peak of Wullersdorf. The trees become smaller as we moved up.

The surrounding is lit because the small-crowned trees there don’t obstruct much sunlight. The higher the ground, the smaller the trees, to almost shrub-like. We walk in dense thickets of tidy straight bole stem trees with stunted appearance. The forest floor is criss-crossed by tangled roots, making the ground soft to walk on.

Approaching the peak of Wullersdorf, which is dominated by heath forest (kerangas)

One of the special trees we see is Tristaniopsis trees, easy to identify by its orange-brown, smooth and shiny trunk, with scrolls of bark that spontaneously peel-off, hanging as untidy bunches along the trunk and forming a heap at the base of the tree. The forest is quiet. We hear a few hornbills flying over the canopy.

Wullersdorf Peak (Height: 430 Metres)

As we are approaching the second peak, the trees getting sparse, more sandy soil is exposed and the ground is more rocky. Finally we reach Wullersdorf Peak by noon. It’s a rocky peak surrounded by loud cicada calls and greyish volcanic rocks.

We reached the Wullersdorf Peak at noon. The height of Mount Wullersdorf is about 430 metres (1,411 ft) above sea level.

We spend on summit to have our lunch. I decide to explore around the peak as the understory of heath forest is often filled with remarkable plant species.

Pitcher Plant and Ant Plant

Forests thrive on two primary nutrients: nitrogen and phosphorus, what the kerangas is lack of. Under nutrient-deficient environment, carnivorous pitcher plants survive by trapping and digesting insects for additional nutrition.

Different species of pitcher plant on Wullersdorf Peak. From the left: *Nepenthes reinwardtiana* (red variant), *Nepenthes veitchii*, *Nepenthes ampullaria* and *Nepenthes gracilis*

Uncle Mul told me that there are seven species of pitcher plant in Wullersdorf. I found Nepenthes ampullaria, Nepenthes reinwardtiana (red and green variants) and Nepenthes veitchii (endemic to Borneo).

Dischidia, aka Ant Plant. The pouch-like things are the modified leaves that are hollow inside for ants to nest, so the plant can absorb their waste as nutrients. This is a symbiotic relationship between ants and plant.

Instead of preying on insects, ant-plants choose to work with insects and build a symbiotic relationship with ants. I find a few green and yellow epiphytic ant-plants (Dischidia major) twine around the branches of trees. These ant-plants possess pouch-like modified leaves with hollow inside that acts as a shelter for ants. In exchange for the accommodation, the ants provide the plants with nitrogen-rich debris and feces.

Staghorn ferns of the peak of Wullersdorf Peak. It’s known as Tanduk Rusa (means Deer’s antler), an expensive ornamental plant. Pakri says it’s his first time seeing this fern in Wullersdorf.

Wild staghorn ferns and rhododendron flowers are my other favourite sighting in this kerangas garden. I’m sure there are more to see if I stay longer.

Crystals and Gold of Wullersdorf

The most fascinating feature of Wullersdorf are the crystal rocks, which are abundant on the peak. Quite a number of rocks there are embedded with translucent white and pinkish crystals of different shapes and sizes. I also find many crystal fragments on the ground. I never see anything like this in other places of Sabah.

Some believe that crystals have healing powers and able to boost your mood. I don’t know if it’s true. But if you give me crystals, I’ll be in good mood. Don’t worry. I only photograph them and didn’t take any.

Big chunks of crystals on the peak. One has heart shape, some are pink colour and some covered by lichen.

In nature, crystal can form when magma cools and hardens. This glittering beauty is another evidence that proves Mount Wullersdorf was used to be a volcano. Scientists say volcanic crystals is a time capsule of eruption history. Hope we will learn more about this geotourism destination from its crystals.

Crystals are everywhere on Wullersdorf Peak. I took many pictures but didn’t bring home any crystal.

Wait, Wullersdorf has another fabulous mineral, GOLD. It’s estimated that about 30 tons of gold and 19 tons of silver are buried under a parcel of land about 948 hectares in the Mount Wullersdorf area. Well, we better don’t create another disaster like Mamut copper mine.

Return to Starting Point

After taking zillion of photos, I leave Wullersdorf Peak reluctantly. It’s a relief that we don’t need to turn back to the starting point using the same 6-km trail. We use the 1-kilometre shortcut to return to the starting point.

Left: a tree with big buttress at the foothill. Right: thorny chestnuts strewn on the forest floor

The descending trail takes about 40 minutes and it is the steepest part of the climb. Luckily there are some rope support for us to move down safely because part of the trail is quite slippery. We arrive foothill before 2pm as planned. I would say Wullersdorf Peak is one of the best hiking trails in Sabah. FYI, after the climb many hikers take a dip at the river of Batu Bersusun, the only Columnar Basalt in Malaysia, which is only 5 minutes away from Dewan Balung Cocos.

Is Mount Wullersdorf Hard to Climb?

The climbing trail to Wullersdorf Peak is not too steep and difficult, even for beginners. If you do workout regularly, it’s fairly easy. To experienced hikers, it’s just a long hike. The main challenge is to climb over the slippery rocks about half of the time. Wearing a good pair of hiking shoes can make a huge difference. It’s a bonus if the shoes are waterproof too, though you won’t walk in water.

A big and black lichen which is made up from algae and fungus. It only grows in pollution-free environment.

No rope support, stairway and hand rail are available for the first 6 kilometres. Some steep sections in the last 1-km descend have rope support. You would want to wear gloves for roping. Anti-leech socks are not necessary unless you can’t tolerate leech bite at all. According to the guides, for every 20 people, there might be only one or two of them might get leech bite, as leech (pacat) is not common there.

Cooling off in a pond after the climb. The forest of Wullersdorf is warm and humid.

The forest of Wullersdorf is warm and humid, wearing T-shirt and hiking pants is good enough (preferably quick dry). Drinking water is the most important. I finished 1.2 Litre of water. The summit has limited shade to protect you from afternoon sunlight, apply sunscreen if required.

Things to Bring

Backpack
Raincoat or poncho
Water (at least 1 Litre)
Energy bar or snacks
Packed lunch
Toilet paper
Camera

Optional

Gloves
Sunscreen lotion / spray
Foldable hiking stick
Anti-leech socks
Insect repellent
Towel and spare clothing (for swimming or changing after hike)
Personal medicine

How to Book

Only two agents are allowed to bring tourists to Wullersdorf Peak. You can contact one of them below.

1) Biro Pelancongan Koperasi

Phone (Whatsapp): +60 11-35485773, +60 10-9540209 (Pakri and Eady)
Facebook: Wullersdorf Peak

2) Uncle Mul

Phone (Whatsapp): +60 19-8233896

I booked with Biro Pelancongan Koperasi. The fee is RM35 per person but requires a booking of minimum 10 people (or you can pay more). The fee includes permit (to enter forest reserve), vehicle transfer, guide, and certificate. The gathering point is in Kampung Balung Cocos (see Location Map), a village about 14 km from Tawau airport.

References

“Geological heritage features of Tawau volcanic sequence, Sabah.” Sanudin Tahir, Baba Musta & Ismail Abd Rahim. Bulletin of the Geological Society of Malaysia 56 (2010) 79 – 85
Annual Report 2022 by Sabah Forestry Department
Ulu Kalumpang-Wullersdorf Sustainable Forest Management (SFM) Project
Proposed gold mining in Balung Participate in review of draft TOR, folks urged, Daily Express, 13 Feb 2015

Photos taken in Tawau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Batu Bersusun, the Only Columnar Basalt in Malaysia

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Tawau is crying. Because once tourists land on the airport of Tawau, they quickly head to Semporna, the diving paradise of Sabah. This makes Batu Bersusun the most neglected attraction, though it’s the only columnar basalt in Malaysia and 14 kilometres away.

Columnar joints of Batu Bersusun were formed during the cooling of hot lava about 27,000 years ago. The cooling process causes the rocks to form hexagonally extended columns.

“Batu Bersusun” means neatly arranged rocks. Along 100 metres of river bank at Balung River in Kampung Balung Cocos (Kampung means Village), thousands of interlocking and greyish rock pillars lined up tidily on both side of the river, like two rows of manmade wall. The natural wonder of this volcanic remnant is called columnar jointing. The local villagers call it Giram Nek Legek.

Batu Bersusun (Columnar Basalt) of Kampung Balung Cocos in Tawau, East Coast of Sabah

A quick look of Batu Bersusun (4K video)

The Formation of Batu Bersusun

Batu Bersusun is the only Columnar Basalt in Malaysia. In ancient time, Tawau was a land of volcanoes, the last volcanic eruption happened about 11,650 years ago. The columnar joints at Batu Bersusun were formed during the rapid cooling of hot lava, which was flowing from the eruption of Mount Maria about 27,000 years ago.

Batu Bersusun is open to public since year 2016. Visitors can come here to take photos, swim and camp around the river.

When the lava flow was cooling down fast by water, the contraction causes fracturing that split the hardened lava rocks into hexagonal columns, though some have 4, 5, 7, or 8 sides. The columnar basalt is about the same size, with a diameter about 30-40 cm, and uniformly arranged. The size of the columns was primarily determined by the speed at which lava cooled.

The water is murky after rain. In dry season, the water is clear and teal in colour. The water at waterfall is about 20 feet deep.

Actually, in East Malaysia, columnar basalt are also exposed in few locations such as Tatau and Kapit, but they are far smaller and less impressive than Batu Bersusun. The rock is classified as extrusive igneous with andesitic to basaltic compositions. It is one of the youngest volcanic eruptions during Quaternary (spans from 2.58 million years ago to the present).

The Batu Bersusun at Balung River of Tawau is the only columnar basalt in Malaysia

A Geotourism Destination

Columnar jointing of volcanic rocks is a unique geological feature only found in Sabah (and Malaysia). Sabah is rich in interesting geographical attractions such as Mount Kinabalu, Gomantong Cave, Poring Hot Springs and Imbak Canyon. Volcano remnants like Batu Bersusun will add more variety to our geotourism destinations.

Most of the columns are hexagonal, though some have 4, 5, 7, or 8 sides. During weekends, many locals come to swim in the pond

The most well-known columnar basalts are the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland and the Devils Tower in United States. Giant’s Causeway is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most popular tourist attractions in Northern Ireland. Devils Tower is the first United States national monument and a sacred place to native Americans.

The Columnar Basalt area is about 100 metres long

Even though the Batu Bersusun is smaller than Giant’s Causeway and Devils Tower, a waterfall columnar basalt in river is rare. Kampung Balung Cocos also has other nature attractions (e.g. Tagal river, Wullersdorf Peak, Pyramid Hill) that can be bundled with Batu Bersusun to turn this village into a must-visit place.

Basalt columns are natural pillars made of hardened lava. The dark line above water surface shows the depth of water during flood.

At the same period when Batu Bersusun was formed (27,000 years ago), megafauna such as tiger, tapir and giant pangolin (3 metres long) were present in Borneo, so were some Stone Age settlements of Australoid or Negrito people.

The columnar basalt, of pentagonal and hexagonal columns appears to be of about the same size and uniformly arranged.

During that time, sea level was decreased by 30–40 metres or more in the last glacial period (from approximately 110,000 to 12,000 years ago). Sabah and the rest of Borneo island was connected to Java, and Sumatra to the Malay Peninsula and mainland Asia in a landmass known as the Sundaland. If you were born that time, you can walk from Sabah to Kuala Lumpur on foot.

“Batu Bersusun” means neatly arranged rocks.

Visit Batu Bersusun

Batu Bersusun (see Location Map) is located in Kampung Balung Cocos, which is about 14 km from Tawau Airport and 39 km from Tawau town. The site is fairly accessible by paved road and navigable by Google Map and Waze apps. However, the last 600 metres is a descending and narrow gravel road that passes through an oil palm plantation. Anyway I can get there with a small Sedan (Axia).

The last 600-metre road to Batu Bersusun is a descending gravel road pass through an oil palm plantation.

Batu Bersusun is open to the public since 2016. It’s in a private property (of Mr. Muhammad) and the entry fee is RM3.00 per person. Walk-in visitor is welcome. You can park your car in front of owner’s house. Toilet and changing rooms are available, where you can change to swimwear or take a shower.

Left: Most population of Kampung Balung Cocos are Cocos Malay. The Cocos people originally settled on the Cocos or Keeling Islands, which are part of Australia. Right: Columnar Basalt is also found in Teck Guan Cocoa Village (Tawau), but in smaller size and scale.

There is a 100-metre stairway to go down to the river with columnar basalt. You can walk or relax on the volcanic rocks to take pictures but be careful of the slippery rock surface.

Left: toilet and changing rooms. Right: 2-floor view tower

Most locals come here to swim in the waterfall pond and enjoy “jacuzzi” massage by the waterfall. The water level is about 4 to 10 feet. The deepest part is 20 feet under the waterfall. In dry season, the water is clear and the pond is in teal colour. I took the photos after rain so it’s murky.

The 100-metre stairway to Batu Bersusun at Balung River. Note there is a shelter where you can rest or camp.

You can camp under the view tower or shelter near the river. Never camp on the columnar basalt because the rocks would be flooded after heavy rain. There is no shop and restaurant nearby. Bring your own food and drink if you plan to have a riverside picnic.

Photos taken in Tawau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Beaufort Mee (Beaufort Fried Noodle)

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Industrialization enables mass-production but it sacrifices the food quality. Luckily, some still hold the belief that human food is better made by human rather than factory machinery. That’s why food lovers really appreciate the handmade noodles from a few Sabah towns, for example, Tuaran Mee, Tamparuli Mee and Beaufort Mee (Mee means Noodle).

Beaufort Mee (Beaufort Fried Noodle, “保佛面” in Chinese) tastes really good though it’s less famous, so it deserves to be featured here.

Restoran Beaufort (保佛饭店)

Beaufort Mee is originated from Beaufort, a town nearly 100 KM from Kota Kinabalu (KK). Fortunately, you can find one of the best Beaufort Mee in KK. Restoran Beaufort (保佛饭店) is only 6 KM from KK and very popular for its Beaufort Mee (see Location Map).

Normally Beaufort Mee is best served hot in “wet fried” style and covered in thick gravy, with green vegetable and pork (usually meat slices and roasted pork slices). The noodle is soft and “juicy”, but not oily. Yes, it does taste better than ordinary noodle. The pork is smooth, sweet and tender.

You may notice that they put a lot of vegetable, so green that it might look less appetizing to carnivorous food lovers like me. But I must tell you that this vegetable is the “secret weapon” of Restoran Beaufort. It’s Chinese Mustard or Choy-Sim (菜心 in Chinese, Sawi Manis in Malay), the most commonly used vegetable for any type of noodles in Sabah.

However, they are using organic vegetable and it makes a big difference. It is fresh, sweet and crunchy! The owner told me that they appoint farmer to plan organic vegetable for them and it costs almost twice as expensive than the organic veg from Ranau.

Other restaurants in Kota Kinabalu City that serve good Beaufort Mee are New Foh Chuan (保佛新伙船) and KK Beaufort Restaurant.

Kedai Makan dan Minum Foh Chuan (老伙船面粥小馆)

Ok, you don’t mind driving 1.5 hours to Beaufort to try Beaufort Mee. You can ask any local in Beaufort, all of them will recommend Foh Chuan Restaurant (see Location Map).

Foh Chuan is just next to a mosque in Beaufort. The owner is Ah Hiong (阿雄) and Foh Chuan is the name of his father. His mobile phone number is +60 12 8392600 if you want more info.

Beaufort Mee Goreng Basah (Wet Fried Beaufort Noodle)

Foh Chuan is open daily (Mon-Sat: 7am-2:30pm, Sun: 7am-1pm). The shop closes earlier so they can make Beaufort Mee in the afternoon. I strongly advise you to visit this restaurant in early morning because their handmade Beaufort Mee is sold out fast. They only have factory-made noodle for latecomers, sad if you drive 1.5 hours for real Beaufort Mee. Sunday is not a good day too as they prepare less items that day.

Konlon Beaufort Mee (Dry Beaufort Noodle)

Besides Beaufort Mee, Foh Chuan serves other delicious food too, like the Fried Rice Noodle (see photo below). They purposely burn the roasted pork slices (焦叉烧 in Chinese) a bit so it tastes sweeter with stronger BBQ flavor.

Left: Fried mihun with slightly burnt cha-sao (Char siu). Right: Beef soup is great to go with your noodle

Food menu of Kedai Makan dan Minum Foh Chuan (prices as of Jan 2024)

You may check out other two Sabah noodles below:
Tuaran Mee (Tuaran Noodle) the golden noodle of Sabah
Tamparuli Mee (Tamparuli Fried Noodle)

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Sosodikon Hill, So Easy to Climb but Not a So-So Attraction

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In only 10 minutes, you can conquer a peak that is higher than the highest mountain of Johor, Penang, Melaka, Negeri Sembilan, and Perlis States. I’m talking about Sosodikon Hill in Kundasang of Sabah, Malaysia. Anyway, most people climb Sosodikon Hill for the rewarding view, not the height.

Location of the peak of Sosodikon Hill. The hill itself is on a highland that has an altitude higher than many mountains in Malaysia.

At an elevation of about 1,300 Metres (4,265 ft), Kundasang is the highest town of Malaysia. Kundasang is also the closest town to Mount Kinabalu, the highest mountain of Malaysia, and only 6 kilometres away from Kinabalu National Park, the second UNESCO Global Geopark of Malaysia. Coupled with cooling weather, this highland town is a popular vacation spot for local and foreign tourists.

Parking, starting point and ticket booth at Sosodikon Hill, which is situated on a gently-sloped plain of Pinousuk tilloid deposits originating from glacial-eroded boulders during the last ice age about 10,000 years ago in the tropical region.

The altitude of Sosodikon Hill is 1,465 Metres (4,806 ft) above sea level. Sound really tall right? Actually, if measured from its foothill, Sosodikon Hill is only about 70 Metres (230 ft) tall. Nevertheless, its peak allows you to have a panoramic view of Mount Kinabalu and Kundasang Valley.

Starting point of the hike to Sosodikon Hill

Some local Chinese like to make fun of the name “Sosodikon” because it sounds like “傻傻地看” (means staring foolishly) in Hakka dialect (no offense). Actually Sosodikon means “a place for laying traps” in Dusun language. When Sosodikon Hill was covered by thick forest in the past, the villagers frequently set traps there to hunt for wildlife such as deer and birds.

In clear day you can see Mount Kinabalu in the morning, before it’s covered by cloud after 8am

Is Sosodikon Hill worth a visit? Yes, if you love to take some beautiful photos of Mount Kinabalu and Kundasang Valley. You can frame a lot of things in the photos taken from the highest point of Kundasang. After all, the hike is so easy and take less than 15 minutes.

Do slow down to appreciate the flowers and ornamental plants along the trail

However, you are advised to reach the peak before 8am, the time Mount Kinabalu is still visible. In most days, Mount Kinabalu would be covered by dense cloud after 9am. If it’s misty or raining, climbing Sosodikon Hill may not worth your time.

Rock painted with rafflesia flower on the trail

Sosodikon Hill (see Location Map) is about 98 Kilometres from Kota Kinabalu City and quite accessible. If you plan to visit DESA dairy farm, you may include Sosodikon Hill in your itinerary as both places are near to each other. The road to the starting point is mainly paved road in ok condition. The last 800 Metres away from the main road to the starting point is a narrow cement and gravel road (no 4WD required).

It takes only 15 minutes or less to reach the peak of Sosodikon Hill

There are some parking spaces for cars within walking distance to the ticket booth, which is open from 6am to 5pm every day. You will be given a pass card after you pay the entrance fee, then you can start climbing the hill. No guide is required. The following is the entrance fee per person in Malaysian Ringgit:

Malaysian Adult (13 years old and above): RM5.00
Malaysian Child (7-12 years old): RM3.00
Foreigner Adult: RM10.00
Foreigner Child: RM5.00
Free admission for children 6 years old and below

Walk-in tourist is welcomed and no advance booking is needed. You may use the small toilet next to the booth before or after the hike.

Pyramid Hills at another side of Sosodikon Hill

The 300-metre trail to the peak is a well trodden soil path. As the trail isn’t very steep, you can walk up, without much climbing, to reach the peak between 10 to 15 minutes. Though it’s an easy short hike, you may walk slowly to enjoy the view. They planted some flowers and installed some decorations along the way.

Viewpoint platform on the peak of Sosodikon Hill. It could be a long queue during weekends and holidays.

The view of Mount Kinabalu was so breathtaking that I kept stopping to take some photos. The view got nicer and nicer when I was moving up. The weather was cooling and the morning sunlight was soft. This hill is mainly grassy slope with very few trees that offer shade, so you better apply sunscreen if you climb in the afternoon. It’s quite windy on top so please put on a jacket for a more comfortable walk.

Enjoy the view on the peak of Sosodikon Hill

The ending point is a colourful wooden platform with boardwalk on the highest point, where you can have a 360° view of Kundasang Valley under the majestic Mount Kinabalu.

View from the peak of Sosodikon Hill. The light blue building is the starting point.

Besides Mount Kinabalu, the rolling Pyramid Hills at another side is scenic as well. Pyramid Hills is an example of triangular facets (or faceted spur), a geomorphic feature produced by active fault movements that started 15 million years ago from the ongoing collision in Sabah. Stream erosion passing through the fault scarps create the triangular-shaped cliff face.

You can order the certificate of conquering Sosodikon Hill. For achiever only!

Unfortunately, some farmland has creeped into the foothill of Pyramid Hills. I hope the locals will spare these green hills from agriculture and development. In fact, due to land clearing, the temperature of Kundasang has risen to 18 to 30 Celsius now, compared to 10-18 Celsius before 1990. People should learn not to repeat the bad consequences that happen to the overdeveloped Cameron Highlands in Peninsular Malaysia.

You can try the ATV (all-terrain vehicle) at the foothill of Sosodikon Hill

Below are some channels for you to contact or follow the operator of Sosodikon Hill:
Phone (Whatsapp): +60 17-8956192
E-mail: sosodikonhill@gmail.com
Website: sosodikonhill.com
Instagram: sosodikonhill
Facebook: sosodikonhillkundasang

Photos taken in Kundasang, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

North Borneo Train Tour down memory lane

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From 1888 to 1963, Sabah (then North Borneo) was colonized by British empire, as part of their economy plan to build a kingdom that never sleeps. The construction of railway in 1896 is a major development that transformed the wild West Coast of Sabah into a belt of prosperity.

Left: The first train in North Borneo (photo taken on 3 Feb 1898). Right: the train tickets of old days (displayed in the Train Gallery of Sabah Museum)

Having more productive lands means earning more wealth, the 134-kilometre Borneo railway helps to open up more lands and forms the lifeline of west coast. Cargo after cargo of tobacco, rubber, paddy, coffee, timber and other agricultural products were transported from the fertile inland to the harbour of Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu City or KK). Colonial townships such as Kinarut, Papar, Beaufort and Tenom also sprouted up along the railway.

Stamps of “Trains in Sabah”, issued on 28 Dec 2015 by POS Malaysia. The yellow steel bridge in background is a historical structure in Papar town.

The success of the tobacco industry between 1880 and early 1890 created a high demand for land, so was the rubber bloom in early 1900s. Thousands of China immigrants were imported into North Borneo in early 19th century to construct the railway and to farm on the new lands. North Borneo Railway has been operating until today and still remain as the only railway on Borneo island.

Left: the train service would be extended to Tawau in east coast in initial plan. Right: Food sellers (usually selling boiled eggs and dumpling) at the Papar train station (photo taken by G.C. Woolley on 27 May 1910)

Though it’s renamed to Sabah State Railway after the formation of Malaysia, locals always view it as a legacy of British. Our great grandparent generations always have a lot of stories to share about the locomotive steamer, which holds a special place in their hearts. Indeed, North Borneo railway is a memory lane with history that involves Bruneians, British, Japanese, Australians and forebears of Sabah Chinese.

The hundred-year-old North Borneo railway is a memory lane full of stories

“It is a well known fact that wherever the British went, they planted flowering trees as well as built railway lines.” — Chung Mui Kong, “Little Snapshots”

North Borneo Train Tour

Though Sabah’s railway towns are quiet and peaceful places nowadays, they were flourishing and eventful towns in the past. The North Borneo Train Tour is like a time machine trip that brings you back to these places full of stories, some with tears and blood. The locals can join this nostalgia and fun ride to learn the past.

If you haven’t been on a train ride, it’s a must-try (do bring your kids). The half-day tour starts at 8am at Tanjung Aru train station. Before boarding you will enjoy some Sabah coffee and light refreshment. Professional tour guide(s) will join you onboard as the storytellers who connect you to the happening along the railway.

Professional tour guide sharing the stories and history of North Borneo railway and towns

The passenger carriages are air-conditioned with comfortable seats. You can enjoy the scenic countryside view through the glass window. In old days, the passengers would not wear white shirt because it would be smeared by ashes from steam engine that was powered by burning firewood. The following are some interesting landmarks and major happening being shared.

“If history were taught in the form of stories, it would never be forgotten.” — Rudyard Kipling

Petagas

The Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA) would be the first landmark that catches your attention. KKIA receives million of visitors every year and it is the busiest airport on Borneo island. Over 90% of tourists come to Sabah by air.

Opposite to KKIA is Petagas War Memorial Garden with temple-like white arch. In 1944 during World War II, a group of 176 Kinabalu guerilla members launched Double-Tenth Revolt to fight Japanese for control over Jesselton. Unfortunately, their victory didn’t sustain, and they were captured and transferred by this railway to this memorial site to be executed on 21 Jan 1944.

Kinarut

The name Kinarut derived from the words ‘China Road’. From the train, you can see the large Tien Nam Shi Toaism Temple (镇南寺) that worships Guang Ze Zun Wang (广泽尊王). Chinese immigrants didn’t have an easy life in Borneo. In some estates, their mortality rate could reach 40% due to ill treatment and poor living environment. Religion would offer them some comfort.

From Kinarut, you will start to see more old wooden shoplots. Most residents are Kadazan, Dusun, Bajau, Bruneian Malay and Chinese, they constitute the main coastal tribes on the west coast of Sabah.

Left: The North Borneo train was an important transportation during World War II. Right: a jeep train carrying troops and locals at Kinarut station

Kinarut is like a nobody town today but it was once an important base of Brunei Kingdom. In the late 17th century, due to civil war, Sultan Abdul Hakkul Mubin fled to Sabah and built a base in Kinarut. He remained there for ten years as the Sultan of Kinarut, and with the help from local Bajau and Dusun people, he managed to counter several attacks from Sultan Muhyiddin. The remains of his fort still can be seen in Kinarut river during low tide.

Kawang

In 1885, a group of British officials were on a hunt to search for a Murut chief called Kandurong. At that time, Kinarut was still under the Brunei sultanate, and there were tensions between the British officials and Kawang villagers.

Mural at Papar train station. The train in the drawing is an old locomotive powered by steam and made by Leeds (England).

They were ambushed and attacked by the local Bajau villagers. Five members of the police force lost their lives, which included Captain de Fontaine, Dr Fraser, Jemadhar Asa Singh and two Sikh officers. The De Fontaine Monument was elected in Kawang as a remembrance of this incident.

Papar

The final stop of this train tour is Papar town, which is one of the oldest settlement and the most multi-racial town of Sabah’s West Coast. The name Papar is derived from the Brunei word meaning flat and sloping land. Papar was used to be the rice bowl of Sabah. Before British came, it’s a slave trade centre.

You know you have arrived Papar town when you see the yellow steel-concrete bridge that crosses a wide river. Under the welcoming music from local Kadazan Papar people, everyone can walk out of the train to breathe some fresh air in Papar town, where you will have lunch before heading back to KK on the same train.

Arrive Papar train station for sightseeing in Papar town

Your tour guide will lead you on the sightseeing. The most fun part is to explore the local market. If the tour is on Thursday, the weekly tamu market would turn this peaceful town into a busy marketplace, where you can shop for variety of local produces, snacks, food and fruits. I can assure you that you would not want to leave with empty hand or stomach.

Walking and shopping at the Central Market and Tamu Market in Papar town centre

The post-war shophouses are another historical heritage of Papar. The typical shophouses consists of one or two rows, either linked or individual structures spread along a linear arrangement. Some are still using traditional bamboo blinds and signboards from 60s and 70s.

The Post-War wooden shoplots in Papar town

The shophouses are mostly occupied by Chinese settlers. The shops are in ground floor, and the families live on upper floor. You just have to be there to feel the retro vibes. Just grab your coffee or lunch at one of the kopitiam (coffee shop) there. Personally I recommend Liang Yung Hua Restaurant (梁荣华饭店), a Chinese restaurant more than 80 years old.

Restaurant and food booths in Papar town

After a delightful lunch and sightseeing in Papar town, you will head back to KK train station. For Sabahans, this historical tour will give you a fresh look into your local history, you will never look at these places the same way again.

Left: a stray cat that has a Pringles face found near Papar market. Right: Tama, the station master of Kishi Station (Japan). Picture source: Wikipedia. Probably we can promote our cat too. Just a thought.

Join the Tour

North Borneo train tour is available every day except Sunday. Besides this tour, the agent also organizes train trip to Beaufort and Tenom. Tour guides speaking in English, Chinese or Malay are available.

Promotion flyers of North Borneo Train Tour in English and Chinese. Please check their official sites for latest information.

To book a North Borneo train tour, you may contact or follow the agent via the following channels:

Website: northborneotraintour.com
Facebook: North-Borneo-Train-Tour
Phone (Whatsapp): +60 12-8028824
E-mail: sales@northborneotraintour.com

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

10 Taboos in Borneo Forest

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Now is Hungry Ghost Month, so it’s a good time to talk about the spiritual world. Borneo forest was used to be the most mysterious area on earth, only adventurers dared to explore it. Today, even tourists can visit our forest, but it is still full of mystery and many visitors have unexplainable experience.

Like Indians who believe everything has a soul, the locals believe the forest is the world of spirits. Therefore, we have a set of rules to follow when we go into the forest, especially the undisturbed forest. I hear many scary stories of someone whom I know breaking the rules. Below is a list of 10 Big No-No in Borneo forest.

1. Don’t Pee Everywhere

Old folks would advise you to say “Excuse Me” before you pee in the jungle, though there is nobody around. This is to inform the “invisible” entity to give way, so you won’t pee on them. Btw, any language will work as “they” can read your mind. I have relatives who didn’t believe this and one of them even purposely peed at the grave. So, at night he saw a man standing next to his bed and stared at him angrily. He was terrified for a few days until he went to the site to apologize, then the spirit left.

Never pee at termite nest, big tree and boulder, which can be the home of the spirits. Peeing at river and stream is not a good idea too. Urinate at sacred sites such as Mt. Kinabalu can bring serious consequences, case in point, a group of 10 disrespectful foreign tourists were blamed for causing a magnitude 6 earthquake. Most people think that it’s only a coincidence, but they get more angry with these fools anyway.

2. Don’t be Busybody

Our forest is rich in biodiversity, so is the forms of spirit. If you see, hear and smell something weird or unknown in the forest, just keep quiet and move on. For example, you would smell something stink or fragrant, so strong that as if it’s just next to you, or you might suddenly feel a chill in your spine for no reason.

Do NOT mention it or ask your friend what it is. It’s probably a spirit comes to check you out or tries to play a trick to lure you. If you respond, it’ll follow you. If you ignore it, it’ll vanish. My ex-classmates didn’t ignore this at Kinabalu Park, so they found 2 “extra” misty human figures in group photo. Some of my friends even hear someone calling their names or foot steps behind. No matter what, don’t go off-trail to investigate. Curiosity kills the cat.

3. Don’t Make Noise

Whoever enters the forest is an outsider invading the territory of the spirits. Usually they don’t bother until someone disturbs them with noise. If you have been to Mt. Kinabalu, you would recall your guide advised you not to be noisy. According to the locals, Mt. Kinabalu is the resting place of the death.

Student is the most annoying group. Despite advised by guide, they are negligent and soon forget about it. Then the mountain is echoed with their loud noise and laughter. Then later at night, some of them would be harassed by black shadow during bedtime. I had heard so many cases like this.

4. Don’t Swear

Jungle trekking can be unpleasant to most people, as Borneo forest is dark, warm and humid. People start to complain when they sweat profusely or get tired. Remember, something is seeing you and hearing you. Your negative attitude will be a magnet for negative energy and that includes bad luck. Sooner or later, you would see the whiner getting into trouble such as a bad fall.

Your positive qi (energy) is your best defense. Keep swearing doesn’t help, it will only worsen the situation.

5. Don’t Joke

If you see anything ugly or funny in a forest, don’t make fun or laugh at it. I know a fellow from Kuala Penyu who laughed at an ugly old tree, then he lost in jungle and almost died of dehydration. According to him, he followed his “friend” in front of him, but his friend didn’t talk and respond to him. Actually it was a spirit that disguised as his friend and made him lost in the wood.

6. Don’t Bring Raw Meat

Most local hunters know this rule. The locals tell me that meat, especially raw pork and salted fishes, will attract something undesirable. I heard story of a driver who kept raw wild boar meat in the car felt that the car became “heavy” when he drove on winding roads next to the forest of Tambunan. One of my friends even saw a tall and black human figure with red eyes at roadside of Papar.

For local people who hike a lot in Sabah forest, they would know the popular taboo named Kopunan. In the forest, you are not supposed to mention any food that is not available there, not even joke about it, for example, saying something like “Hey, is there any burger here? I wish I have a cold bottle of Coca-Cola with me.” Doing so will generate an unfulfilled desire and that negativity will bring bad luck.

7. Don’t Disturb Anything

Leave everything in place as it is. Take nothing but photograph. Keep in mind that the forest is the property of others. That’s why workers of logging companies are strong believers of Feng Shui and God of Earth (Dato). You can see them worship Dato (拿督公 in Chinese) in their forest campsites. The spirits hate the loggers so much that the workers need the protection from the God of Earth.

Pic: God of Earth (Dato) is widely worshiped in construction & logging sites of Sabah

If you have to take something, ask for permission (say to the air), and you better leave something behind as an “exchange”. However, if you take anything in national park, no matter it is live or dead specimen, it’s stealing and you will be fined RM1,000 or more. So just don’t do it.

8. Don’t Sleep Anywhere

Based on common belief of locals, Bambangan, Banana, Banyan and Bamboo are the most haunted trees of Borneo. There are many ghost stories related to these trees too. If you camp in the jungle, stay far away from them.

I have a friend who was a girl scout and camped a lot in the wilderness. She said one day a hammock next to a banana tree spin like crazy and freak out everyone. Personally I saw fireball with tail hovering in bamboo forest. My late grandmother said it’s the spirit of the newly deceased.

9. Don’t Make Fun of Wildlife

Every living thing is the “citizen” of the forest. It is understandable that people may consume them for living, but it is unforgivable to torture or make fun of them. I was told that a group of hunters caught a monkey in Trus Madi. They put cigarette in the mouth of the dead monkey and had good laugh of it. That night an unusual strong wind blew away their camp.

10. Beware of River

Without pollution, the river in deep jungle is crystal clean and we will swim. Be careful, my Long Pasia guide warned. Before entering the water in remote area, we should throw lime or a pinch of salt into the river to cleanse it. During camping, he also advised us not to sleep in parallel direction with the river. Or we would find that we are relocated to another location in next morning. This has happened to his guests. Weird huh?

Call me superstitious if you want. Well, many broke the rule but nothing bad happened to them, so you can remain skeptical. Anyway, the rules are easy and won’t cost you anything. Four rules have something to do with our mouth, so just shut up in the forest, haha.

This notice in Kinabalu Park reminds “naughty” tourists to behave themselves.

For those who don’t listen to the old folks, they would experience bad consequences such as incubus and sickness. In serious case, it could be bad weather, accident, lost in jungle or being haunted. Though most Sabahans are converted to Christians or Muslims, most of us believe there is another kind of energy living in the forest. Another reason to follow the rules is to show that you respect the cultures and belief of locals, no matter you believe it or not.

I’ve walked hundred Kilometers in forest and never harassed by any spirit. Just Respect the forest. Before I enter any forest, I “talk” to them, saying that I’m just a friendly visitor and don’t mean to disturb them. When I walk in the jungle, I praise everything I see and thank them for the nice surrounding. In almost every case, the moment I walked out of jungle, it rained, as if they waited until I finished my journey. It happens so many times that I can’t believe it’s just a coincidence. I’m trying to say, they will be nice to you if you respect them.

If you enter a remote pristine forest, it’s also advisable to bring a local villager / guide with you. The spirits would be less hostile if they see you coming with someone they know. For safety reason, the locals know the place well too. Do you know the locals appease the spirits of Mt. Kinabalu annually, to protect the climbers?

Pic: making offering to mountain spirit with 7 betel nuts, eggs, tobacco rolls and chicken

For high-risk expedition, you can request a local shaman (locally known as Bomoh) or high priest (Bobolian) to appease the spirits for a smooth journey. They also can neutralize the curse or chase away the evil spirits, in case you get one from the forest. However, if you don’t feel alright after a jungle trip, the first thing you should do is to see a doctor instead of Bomoh. It could be allergy, food poisoning, viral infection, Malaria, etc., a 99% chance that there is a scientific explanation.

Pic: a Bobolian

Hey, please share with me if you got any story ok. 🙂

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Traditional Food of Papar

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Papar is a quiet and peaceful town about 38 Kilometres away from Kota Kinabalu City. The locals in Papar are mainly Kadazan Papar and Orang Brunei people who make some special delicacies.

1. Tapai Papar

From the name, you would think that it is the famous rice wine of Sabah. “Tapai Papar” cake is made by Orang Brunei lives in Laut Village of Papar.

Definitely it does not look like Tapai wine, but it really smells and tastes like Tapai, and really sweet too. They said they mixed the yeast with the cooked rice, then left it overnight, to produce the sweet taste and Tapai scent. Interesting huh..

2. Lauk Pais

I also tried their BBQ Fish, named Lauk Pais, which is Basung or Pinaasakan fish wrapped and grilled in leaves.

The fishes were fresh and sweet, and tasted a bit spicy. Yum, yum…

Lauk Pais, grilled basung fish wrapped in leave

3. Pinompol, the Papar Pizza

The main ingredient of Pinompol is desiccated coconut, which is fried and mixed with sago powder and sugar. It’s cooked until golden brown to release the pleasing coconut aroma. No oil is added. You can watch the video on how Pinompol is made. The taste is sweet and soft with crusty surface.

Pinompol is one of the traditional food that is not commonly appreciated by the young generations, so not many people know about it.

Pinompol goes well with hot coffee. You can add honey, cheese, mayonnaise or sliced bananas for extra flavours. This snack is homemade for self-consumption and not commonly sold in market. You can get Pinompol at Koposizon Homestay Papar.

4. Kuih Lidah

Kiuh Lidah, literally means Tongue Cake, is a traditional sweet snack of Bruneian Malay in Papar, the southeast part of Sabah, Malaysia. Also known as Kuih Tiram (Oyster Cake), Kuih Lidah is one of the best selling snacks of Sabah and getting popular throughout Malaysia.

Kuih Lidah with coated sugar and milk powder, is paired well with hot tea or coffee

5. Kuih Sayur

Kuih Sayur is a popular savory pastry from Papar. Not many outsiders know about it, as this delicious treat is always sold out. Due to its shape, it is called ‘wheel pastry’ (车轮饼) or ‘little fried jicama’ (炸葛仔) by the Chinese, and some also refer to it as ‘Tin Can Pastry’ (罐头饼).

Kuih Sayur is made from flour fried to an appetizing brown color with a crunchy crust, and it is filled with soft, grated jicama inside, which tastes similar to Ham Sui Gok (咸水角), another famous pastry.

Madam Teo and her family have been selling Kuih Sayur for about 70 years, and the recipe comes from her grandmother who hailed from Yongchun County (永春县) of China. Kuih Sayur is priced at RM1.20 each. Madam Teo’s stall in Papar Central Market (Pasar Am Papar) also sells a variety of other kuih and pastries every day from 6am to 11am, except Mondays.

6. Surabai

Surabai looks like a steamed rice pancake. Anyone can tell me more?

Pogunon Community Museum and the Secrets of the Dead

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In the year 2000, an unexpected discovery unfolded at Pogunon Village, nestled on the outskirts of Kota Kinabalu City, leaving the entire Sabah astounded. The unearthing of an ancient cemetery reignited the recollections of burial and megalithic cultures prevalent in Sabah.

Entrance to Pogunon Community Museum. The entry is free.

Standing on this hallowed ground, the Pogunon Community Museum (known as Muzium Komuniti Pogunon or Muzium Tapak Perkuburan Purba Pogunon in Malay) invites visitors to behold the burial jars and old graves, while delving into the haunting tales of headhunting and the revered Bobohizan, the high priestess of the Kadazan people, who once graced this site.

The exhibition hall of Pogunon Community Museum is about the size of a basketball court and has air-conditioning.

Pogunon is named after a native plant, Sorim Pogun. It also means “bekas yang ditinggalkan”, which is translated as “the traces left behind.” because in old days this village was in war, the villagers were ambushed and fled into forest, then came back next day.

Discovery of the Pogunon Cemetery

In January 2000, the construction of KEMAS Kindergarten building at Pogunon Village (or Kampung Pogunon) led to the finding of four burial jars (three of them are complete and have human bones in them), blue-and-white plates, and bowls. These ceramics originated from China between the 16th and 19th centuries.

Sabah Museum carried out excavations at Pogunon in 2000, 2007 and 2008 to rescue the buried heritages. (Photo Credit: Sabah Museum)

Further excavations conducted by Sabah Museum dug up thirteen ancient burial jars from an old graveyard in front of the St. Joseph Chapel in the same village. The lidded burial pots contain artifacts such as coins dating back to 1885, bangle, belt (himpogot) made from ancient silver coins, jewelry and decorated ceramics.

Ancient burial jars exhibited in Sabah Museum. The one at the right is from Pogunon.

The people buried in jars are usually those who have high social status such as Bobohizans and headhunter warriors, so this cemetery is important in cultural anthropology. Some graves belong to the ancestors of the current generations living in Pogunon. In fact, 60% of this village is an ancient burial ground.

Pogunon Community Museum is open from Monday to Saturday, from 9am to 5pm. It’s closed on Sunday and public holidays.

The site is gazetted in 2000 to protect this ancient graveyard and its megaliths, which served as grave markers. Pogunon Community Museum is built in situ in 2004 to showcase its artifacts and history.

The Past of Pogunon Village

Though Kampung Pogunon is a quiet village nowadays, it’s quite a happening place in the past. The small village is situated on the flat plains under Crocker Range and next to a river, so it was a suitable meeting point for mountain and coastal tribes, who used to barter trade with one another. For example, Bajau people from seaside can exchange for forest stuffs with Dusun from the interior with seafood.

Group visit to Pogunon Museum by participants of Sabah Dark Tourism workshop. This museum is listed as one of the attractions of dark tourism.

An article dated 1st July 1884 on North Borneo Herald newspaper stated that Pogunon was the largest tamu (native market) in west coast that time. The tamu of Pogunon was held every 10 days and is considered as one of the earliest known tamu. Some inhabitants were wealthy because of this blooming marketplace.

Old ceramic plates and bowls that were buried with the jars

Now, here comes the interesting and important part, there were Chinese merchants who also traded in this tamu market. Their ships brought in some China products such as ceramic jars, plates, crocks, dishware and other ornaments, which were used for exchanging herbs, spices, hardwood, agarwood, resin and even birds feathers from the locals. This explains where the Chinese jars of Pogunon coming from. Some of the Chinese married the native Dusun and settled in Sabah. Therefore, almost every villagers in Pogunon Village have Chinese connection.

Burial Jars

There is a collection of about 20 burial jars in different size and designs being displayed in the exhibition hall of Pogunon Museum, together with other artifacts such as plates, skeleton and headhunting sword. On the walls are information boards with photographs and description, in English and Malay, on the burial and megalithic cultures of Sabah Borneo.

In old days, Kadazandusun, the largest indigenous group of Sabah, has been practicing burial by jars (jar is locally known as tajau) for centuries. The natives believed that jar is the home and shelter for the deceased in the next world. The dead body was stored in fetal position in a large jar, normally at least a metre in height. If the mouth of jar was too narrow, they would cut the jar in half along the rim, so they could fit the corpse inside and joined the pieces again.

Skeleton remains in the burial jar of Pogunon

Favourite personal adornments and belongings of the deceased like plate, bowl, ceramic, silver coin belts, ring, button, necklace, beads, bracelet, and shoes would be placed in the jar too. The mouth of the jar was then sealed with a plate and resin or bee wax. For leaders or village heads, gong would be used as the cover. Lastly the burial ceremony was completed with rituals and prayers led by Bobohizan.

Antique jars of Sabah from China, Thailand, Vietnam, and other countries (photo in Sabah Museum). The oldest China ceramic found in Sabah is from Song Dynasty period (960-1279).

Ceramic jar was a luxury item, so burial by jar is only for the prestigious people. Majority of ceramic jars at Pogunon belong to headhunters and Bobohizans. The commoners were normally buried in bamboo or wooden casket, or cheap (brown) earthen jars. The most expensive jars are from China, especially those with beautiful engraved or embossed patterns. The oldest jar found in Pogunon is about 800 years old (and is given to Sabah Museum).

It’s a special experience to listen to the ancestor stories that happened right under our feet.

Owning one or more big and beautiful jar was a sign of wealth, probably same as owning a designer handbag from Hermès Birkin today. The valuable ceramic jars from Pogunon are in blue and white, or five colours, which were made during Yuan (1271-1368) and Ming (1368-1644) Dynasty periods in China. The locals also used jars for many purposes, for example, heirloom, currency for trading, storage, brewing wine, dowry.

Video of a 2-minute tour at Pogunon Museum

The location of the burial jar is often marked by a rock that served as a tombstone, so it’s easier for the family to locate.

Gravestone and Megalithic Culture

There are 32 sandstone markers (menhirs) of various size and shapes at the compound of Pogunon, each marks the final resting place, and to indicate the gender and age of the persons being buried. Megalithic practices in Sabah existed from 15th century to the end of 19th century.

Rock markers of ancient graves at Pogunon Museum. There are about 30 of them here in different sizes and shapes. The megalithic tradition is used as an intermediary to their ancestors because they believe their ancestors can bless them from another world.

In megalithic culture of Sabah, a rock could be a grave or territory marker, a memorial, or an oath stone. In fact, the name Penampang, the district where Pogunon is situated, originates from the Kadazan word pampang, which means a big rock.

You can tell the gender of the buried from the shapes of their grave markers. The left one belongs to a male, while the right one with rounded top belongs to a female.

At Pogunon cemetery, larger rock is an indicator that the buried is of high status. There is one small rock near the edge that might belong to an infant who probably died in miscarriage. In general, the ‘male’ rocks have rough edges, with angular and pointy top, while the ‘female’ rocks are round and smooth at the top.

The menhirs in Sabah are found in several districts, with the largest deposits found in Penampang, Putatan, Kinarut and Tambunan.

Headhunting History

Check out a few larger stone markers at Pogunon and you will find a few of them have notches carved into the side. These are the menhirs of headhunter warriors and the notches indicating the number of heads they took during their lifetime.

Left: old photograph of a Dusun headhunter. Right: The number of the notches on the tombstone represents the number of heads taken by the deceased.

Pogunon was the gateway between highland and plains hence making this place a war zone among the neighbouring tribes. Headhunters believed that they could capture the power and spirits of the beheaded. Owning many enemy skulls was a sign of bravery and strength.

Enemy skulls were proudly displayed in longhouse as the trophy of the headhunters

Therefore, skulls were placed and hung everywhere in Pogunon during the headhunting era. Bobohizans there were chanting day and night to appease the spirits of the skulls. The skulls were said to move even on a windless night to warn of imminent attacks. They could even made war cry to scare off the invading enemies.

Museum staff (James) sharing the stories of headhunting and Bobohizans

The tour to Pogunon Museum is perfected by the storytelling of the museum staff, James. His stories are so intriguing and vivid that you can visualize what was going on. One of the stories being a Bobohizan ambushed and beheaded the Japanese soldiers at night during World War II. She was never caught of the assassination.

Left: sword and gong. Right: real headhunting sword with Dayak decoration. The sword can’t be buried with its headhunter master, as the next world has no war. People with weak spirits are advised not to touch this sword or they would be possessed.

A headhunting sword owned by a late Bobohizan is another highlight of this museum. The hilt of this Gayang sword is made from a deer’s antlers and has Dayak-styled designs and motifs engraved on it. This sword took many lives including the Japanese.

Left: skulls displayed in Sabah Museum. Right: old photograph of people dismantled the hut used for hanging heads

Pogunon Village was used to be a stronghold of the old belief and headhunting culture, before the arrival of British and their religion. When British ruler started banning headhunting in 1883, countless number of skulls were burnt, buried or thrown away by the villagers, which marked the end of headhunting era.

How to get there

Since Pogunon Museum operated in April 2009, it has received thousands of tourists, historians, researchers, enthusiasts, and students. The entry is free. This museum is situated at Pogunon Village of Penampang district, and highly accessible by car. It’s about 11 km from Kota Kinabalu City and 3 km from Donggongon town. The junction to Pogunon is located at the Penampang-Tambunan road. If you use navigation apps such as Waze, set your destination to Muzium Komuniti Pogunon.

Junction to Pogunon Village (Kampung Pogunon) in Penampang

Opening Hours: 9am to 5pm (Monday to Saturday). Closed on Sunday and Public Holidays
GPS Location: 5.913255638634767, 116.1449756274239 (see Location Map)
Contact Person: Mr. James Dinggon
Telephone: (+60) 088–225033, (+60) 088–215606
Website: museum.sabah.gov.my

Reference

“Kebudayaan Megalitik di Kampung Pogunon, Penampang, Sabah”, page 260 to 270, Sabah Museum Monograph Volume 12 (2014), published by Sabah State Museum

Photos taken in Penampang, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo