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Durian from Kampung Sayap

Aura Montoria, the Rock Garden of Mount Kinabalu

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Aura Montoria is touted as one of Sabah’s top hiking spots, and after experiencing it firsthand, I don’t think it’s overrated. Hiking here offers an incredible opportunity to immerse in Borneo’s diverse landscapes. Beyond a mere walk, it’s an exciting exploration of caves, rock formations, rivers, waterfalls, ponds, and lush rainforests—truly a collection of natural wonders waiting to be discovered.

You like the element of soil, rock, water or wood? You can enjoy all these nature wonders in Aura Montoria.

About Aura Montoria

You might know about the Kinabalu Park HQ situated on Mount Kinabalu‘s southern side, easily reachable from Kundasang. However, tucked behind Malaysia’s highest peak lies Aura Montoria to the north, an enchanting hilly terrain located in Kampung Sayap (Kampung means Village) of Kota Belud, and part of the 4,750 km² Kinabalu UNESCO Global Geopark. It’s just a stone’s throw away from the Sayap Substation, snugly positioned on the west side of Kinabalu Park.

The cavities in sandstone structure create many natural caves and ponds in Aura Montoria

Aura Montoria owes its name to a winding tree vine known as Pokok Ponoriawon by the Dusun Tindal people. This vine, adorned with long thorns, grows along the riverbank, drawing a variety of birds during its flowering season. The locals named the area Montoria, a shortened version of Pokok Ponoriawon. Enchanted by its beauty, they added “Aura” to create Aura Montoria, capturing the site’s radiant charm.

Aura Montoria is rich in flora too, e.g. begonia, bark-less eucalyptus tree, jewel orchid, and tampoi fruit in this picture

A Geotourism Destination

Couples always promise to each other, “I will love you to the time of the seas run dry and the rocks crumble,” as if such changes are impossible. But Aura Montoria will prove them wrong. Here, among the rolling hills and rock fragments, you’ll find evidence of a time when this land lay beneath the sea, some 20 million years ago. The geological morphology of the Aura Montoria is mainly featured by sedimentary rocks from the Crocker Formation, formed in a deep-sea basin during the middle Oligocene to early Miocene period, roughly 28 to 23 million years ago.

Aura Montoria was under the sea more than 20 million years ago

Around 17 to 10 million years ago, a tectonic collision uplifted most parts of Sabah, including Aura Montoria. This followed by geological processes like folding and faulting, raising the sandstones and shales of Aura Montoria’s sedimentary layers to the surface. Over millions of years, erosion and compaction shaped these deposits, forming the striking ridges, valleys, and unique rock formations that grace Aura Montoria today.

The landscape of Aura Montoria is dominated by sedimentary rocks such as sandstones, shales, and conglomerate that were deposited in the ancient seabed more than 20 million years ago. They look like compacted rocks glued by cement.

Granite boulders and rock walls dot this area, likely carried by glaciers from Mount Kinabalu to the foothills near Aura Montoria. Therefore, hikers will find fascination in the remnants of an ancient ocean floor and traces from the Pleistocene Ice Age, dating back millions of years.

Starting point of hiking in Aura Montoria. The 6-km trail takes about 6 hours to finish (include lunch and break)

Hiking (A Walk-Through)

The hiking trail spans a 6-kilometer loop, winding through varied and uneven terrain where the flowing rivers and waterfalls shower you with negative ions, the forest fills your lungs with fresh air, and sunlight provides a serotonin boost. All these combine to energize you and uplift your mood. Given the prevalent depression among younger generations, it’s no surprise that hashtags like silent walking, soft hiking, and rucking are trending in the Gen Z community. Visit Aura Montoria, I would advise them.

The hike typically lasts around 6 hours at a leisurely pace. The trail poses a moderate challenge to beginners, involving some scrambling and balancing over rocks and roots along slopes situated between 200 to 400 meters above sea level. While leeches aren’t commonly encountered, parts of the trail can be slippery, making sturdy hiking shoes crucial. Carrying mosquito repellent is essential for a more comfortable hike.

Briefing by our guide, Kunan, at the registration hut before the hike. There are a few simple toilets. You can change your cloth and take a shower there after the hike.

We met our guides (Kunan and Kiwi) at the registration hut inside a village plantation, for a short briefing before our hike began at 8:30 am (finishing around 2:30 pm). The first part of the trail is a pleasant one-kilometre walk through the countryside. In just 15 minutes, we passed through rubber and pineapple plantations and made our way downhill to a resting hut by the river, which is where the loop trail starts and ends.

Hanging Bridge

As we crossed the suspension bridge, I was impressed by the pristine river underneath, a tributary of the Wariu River that eventually merges with the Kadamaian River downstream—this is one of Kota Belud’s biggest rivers. Reports indicate it’s a class I river in terms of water quality, and rich in oxygen. It’s a refreshing spot, with temperatures hovering around a cool 25-27°C, perfect for a revitalizing shower after a lengthy hike.

Left: the hut is the starting point of the loop trail. Right: the river under suspension bridge is a great spot to take shower after a long hike

Lion Rock (Batu Gung-Gung Cha)

Following a brief ascent over a small hill known as the “Path of One Thousand Steps,” we encountered the first marvel: the Lion Rock. Locally referred to as Batu Gung-Gung Cha (Batu means Rock), this rock formation likely earned its name due to its resemblance to a lion and its association with the resounding tones of gongs and cymbals.

The Lion Rock (Batu Gung-Gung Cha) that reminds us of the noisy lion dance

Tree Hole (Pokok Tomboilik)

As the deafening chirps of cicadas and the lively calls of birds surrounded us, it was evident we’d ventured into the jungle—a regenerated secondary rainforest in good condition, thanks to the dense canopy providing ample shade that shields us from the sun. A highlight of the trek was squeezing through a tree hole in a giant tree known as Pokok Tomboilik. Just a heads-up, if you’re a bigger person with a hefty backpack, you might get stuck in the hole.

Left: passing through a big tree hole. Right: The Mouth Cave looks like a dinosaur head from this angle

Mouth Cave (Gua Mulut)

Our next destination was quite a sight—a massive overhanging cave resembling the head of a dinosaur when seen from a certain angle. This cave is just one of many hidden within the area, adding to its allure as a fascinating geological site boasting various cave formations.

Gua Mulut (Mouth Cave) is an overhanging cave that resembles a big mouth

Natural Spring Water (Waig Minorol)

Close to the Mouth Cave, there are freshwater springs with water oozing out of the rocks. The sandstone, which is an excellent aquifer due to its high porosity and permeability, functions as groundwater reservoir that never run dry even during dry spells. I had a sip, and the mineral-rich water tasted wonderfully fresh, cool, and clean—no strange odors at all.

The spring water from the sandstone never dries up even during drought

Wongking Cave

Along the trail, we encountered stunning rock walls formed from conglomerate—a mix of sedimentary rocks in various sizes and shapes glued together by finer materials such as sand, silt, or clay. Some of these formations were covered with epiliths such as white mold and green mosses, adding to their beauty.

Left: Entering Wongking Cave. You need a LED headlamp for caving. Right: conglomerate rock wall

Descending into the depths, we ventured into the dark Wongking Cave. With our guides leading the way, both ahead and behind us, we felt safe exploring the underground cave. Don’t forget to bring a LED headlamp or flashlight for your caving adventure.

Rock Pond (Liogu Ourod)

This is the highlight I was most excited about. The oval-shaped rock pond is fed by a mountain stream and takes on a mesmerizing emerald hue when sunlight dances upon its surface. It resembles the mythical magic pool believed to restore youth to those who drink or bathe in its waters. Be careful when you move around there because the rock surface is very slippery.

Liogu Ourod, the natural rock pond filled with mountain water

Bat Cave (Gua Pungit)

Venturing into another mountain cave, we discovered a stream flowing within. Natural light poured in through the cave’s opening on top, which also served as an entrance and exit for its inhabitants, like bats. Making the exploration easier, there were ropes and ladders available to facilitate movement in and out of the cave.

The Bat Cave with an underground stream

Waterfall Cave (Wasai ID Gua)

Each cave here holds its own surprises, and this one didn’t disappoint, featuring a hidden waterfall. No matter how scorching the day, this cooling cave provides the perfect refuge. With numerous caves and pristine water sources, I can’t help but wonder if cavemen once called this place home. To top it off, this cave even boasts a pond teeming with fishes.

Waterfall in a cave. There are many fishes in the pond. You can bring some pellets to feed them.

Lookout Point (Pogimpaan Ko-Duo)

Ok enough with dark caves, next we ascended higher ground where a viewpoint platform awaited. The sight of the lush forest and rolling hills was simply breathtaking. The gentle breeze was incredibly calming, prompting us to pause for a snack break on the wooden platform. It’s about 11am so we were a bit hungry.

Climbing to the lookout point on the hill. The trail is quite steep.

Marathon Trail via Rock Walls

Following a short rest, we headed down to the valley, tracing our path alongside rock walls. Among the rugged conglomerate formations, I spotted creamy rock walls composed of granite. These walls, formed from solidified molten rock that intruded into the ancient sediments, serve as reminders of tectonic activities here.

Sandstone and granite rock walls of Aura Montoria

Riverside Camp

Finally, we reached the camp next to a tranquil river with a rocky bed, where we indulged in linopot lunch (rice wrapped in leaves). A few unique butterflies, including the iconic Rajah Birdwing, fluttered about the riverbank. This spot offers camping, swimming, and tubing activities, and you can throw a BBQ party.

River campsite and linopot (rice wrapped in leaf). Basic camping amenities such as tables and toilets are available here.

Nature enthusiasts will find themselves captivated by Aura Montoria’s diverse landscapes. Keep an eye out for its rich flora, such as begonias and orchids, which are among the highlights. While most people relaxed at the camp, some enjoyed a free fish massage from the docile mahseer (Local Name: Ikan Kelah).

The river and mahseer fishes (Species: Tor duoronensis) at the campsite

Green Lake (Liogu Otomou)

The adventure isn’t quite done yet! Our final destination is the Green Lake, a serene pond embraced by whitish boulders, with a depth of about 10 feet. For those seeking an extra adrenaline rush at the tail end of a long hike, you can take a leap into the river from higher ground nearby.

Liogu Otomou, a green lake-like river zone enclosed by rocky riverbank

How to Get There

Aura Montoria (see Location Map) is situated in Kampung Sayap, approximately 26 kilometers from Kota Belud, famously known as the Cowboy Town of Sabah. The journey from Kota Kinabalu City (KK) to Kota Belud, around an hour by car, is easily accessible via highways and paved roads. However, the 27-kilometer stretch from Kota Belud to Aura Montoria is predominantly gravel and dirt roads, making a 4-wheel-drive preferable as it can be challenging for sedan or saloon cars to traverse.

Fruit stall at the roadside of Kampung Sayap. You would find durian and tarap during fruiting season.

If you’re traveling from KK, expect a journey of over two hours. During the durian fruiting season (around August and September), if you’re a durian lover, plan for additional travel time as you might be tempted to stop in Kampung Sayap to shop for cheap durian, pineapples, and tarap. Hence, staying overnight in a nearby homestay like Porohon Garden Lodge is highly recommended. This way, you can avoid the rush and enjoy a leisurely start to your adventure without the need for a long early morning drive.

About Kampung Sayap

The majority of Kampung Sayap’s population comprises the Dusun Tindal community, mainly engaged in farming activities. Originally known as Kampung Minangkob, the name translates to “valley surrounded by hills.” Many years ago, a British military officer visited the village, he rested by a river that was nearly covered with dry leaves because of the drought that time.

Dog and cat of Kampung Sayap. In the photos are Si Putih (dog) and Stim (cat), they love durian. Here are the proof of Si Putih and Stim eating durians (click the links for video)

Then the British asked a villager, “what is the word for dry leaves in Dusun language?” The villager replied that it was “sahap” (dry leaves). Unfortunately, the officer misheard sahap as sayap (which means wings in English) and document it in his diary. Due to that incident, Kampung Minangkob was renamed to Kampung Sayap.

A friendly villager and her dog on the way to their farm in a lovely morning. Note the traditional wakid bamboo baskets in the car and the durian plantation behind them.

Fees and Contacts

The half-day, 6-kilometer hiking tour is priced at RM35 per person for locals and RM80 per person for non-Malaysians. For a group of up to 5 people, the guide fee per group is RM50 for locals and RM100 for non-Malaysians. Food is not included in the cost (but available as an add-on). If needed, you can hire a porter at a rate of RM5 per kilogram to carry your belongings.

Butterflies at the river of Aura Montoria. Left: Terinos clarissa praestigiosa, Right: Bornean Straight Pierrot (Caleta manovus)

A local guide is mandatory for hiking in Aura Montoria. To inquire about updated rates or book a hiking trip in Aura Montoria, you can contact the operator through the following channels:
Phone (Whatsapp): +60-136262793 (Madam Sandra Idiam), +60-189650079 (Madam Rina Maratun)
Facebook: Aura Montoria Eko-Edu Tourism Kg Sayap Kota Belud Sabah

Things to Bring

Having the following items handy will ensure a more comfortable and enjoyable hiking experience at Aura Montoria! The most important of all is to wear the right hiking gear: quick-dry clothes and good hiking shoes.

  • Backpack
  • Drinking Water
  • Raincoat / Poncho
  • Insect Repellent
  • Sunblock Lotion / Spray
  • Snacks / Energy Bar
  • Swimwear / Sarong
  • Extra clothing and towel
  • Hiking pole
  • Plastic Bag for soiled clothing
  • Cash
  • Optional: dry bag, portable power bank, hat

You can rent walking sticks, swimming goggles, Adidas Kampung (waterproof rubber shoes for hiking) for a small fee.

Walking sticks and Adidas Kampung shoes for rent. Adidas Kampung is made of rubber and waterproof, it’s the favourite hiking shoes of locals because it works well on muddy and slippery ground.

Special thanks to Puan Rina Maratun for sharing the backstories of Aura Montoria and Kampung Sayap. I also refer to the book “A Scientific Journey Through Borneo; Sayap-Kinabalu Park Sabah” written by ISMAIL, Ghazally; BIN DIN, Laily and published in 1995.

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Climbing Bombalai Hill, an Ancient Volcano

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One of the reasons Malaysians visit famous volcanoes such as Mount Fuji and Mount Bromo is they’ve never seen a volcano, and they think that there is no volcano in Malaysia. Wrong! Sabah has over 10 volcanoes, for example, Bohey Dulang Island, Bukit Tengkorak, Mount Wullersdorf. Tawau and Semporna in south-east of Sabah were used to be the volcanic regions from Neogene to Late Pleistocene ages (about 23 million to 11,700 years ago).

Volcano crater view from the plane to Tawau. It’s probably belong to the Mount Maria of Tawau Hills Park.

Don’t worry. All volcanoes in Sabah are extinct (or dead) volcano, which will not erupt anymore. Don’t believe those viral videos which clickbait us by saying that the Bombalai Hill of Sabah is an active or dormant volcano. Some local school teachers tell their students that Mount Kinabalu is a volcano, this is incorrect too.

Bombalai Hill is abundant with volcano rocks ranging in age from Middle Miocene to Quaternary.

About Bombalai Hill (Bukit Bombalai)

Bombalai Hill (Bukit Bombalai in Malay language) is the most accessible extinct volcano in Sabah. You can park your car near its foothill and hike only an hour to its peak. Though a dead volcano is not as interesting as a smoking active volcano with flowing lava, it is definitely safer to explore.

3D map of Bombalai Hill (left) and Tawau Hills Park (right). Note the caldera on the peak.

Bombalai Hill is an ancient cone volcano that was active during Quaternary. Its last eruption is probably about 129,000 to 11,700 years ago. Though the dense forest on the hill has covered the traces of volcanism, its 300-metre-wide caldera is quite visible from the sky. I saw it once from a plane that flied to Tawau town, the third largest town of Sabah.

Beautiful jungle trail of Bombalai Hill (Bukit Bombalai)

Bombalai Hill is part of Tawau Hills Park (Taman Bukit Tawau), a fully protected forest reserve about 24 km north-west of Tawau (see Location Map) and highly accessible by sealed roads. If Tawau Hills Park is open a million years ago, it would be called “Tawau Volcanoes Park” because the mountains there were used to be active volcanoes from the ages of Miocene to Late Pleistocene.

Hill dipterocarp forest is the most common forest type in Tawau Hills Park (Taman Bukit Tawau)

Now these extinct volcanoes become the three highest mountains in Tawau Hills Park, namely, Mount Magdalena (1,310 M), Mount Lucia (1,201 M) and Mount Maria (1,083 M). Mount Lucia has the most distinct volcano crater on the peak and it takes 6 hours to hike, but I climb Bombalai Hill first, because it’s the smaller volcano with the shortest and easiest trail.

Starting point of the climb to Bombalai Hill (Bukit Bombalai)

Tawau Hills Park opens from 8am to 4pm every day. You can climb Bombalai Hill during the opening hours but I advise you to start before 2pm. Because the dense forest is quite dim after 3pm, when the sun starts sinking behind the hill. You are not required to hire a guide to go with you.

Left: a long-tailed macaque on the fence. Right: grass path to Bombalai Hill

Climbing Bombalai Hill

The starting point is located outside the fenced area of Tawau Hills Park headquarter. The ticket (named as Conservation Fee) costs RM6 for Malaysian adult (18 years old & above) and RM20 for foreign adult (as of year 2023). Some “smart” people would ask you to bypass the ticket counter so you can climb the hill for free. Please don’t do that. In case you are stranded on the hill, nobody would know that you are on the hill. Or you would be mistaken as a poacher by the patrolling rangers there.

Left: nature trail to the hill. Middle: a cocoa tree. Right: white fungus high on a tree

Though Bombalai Hill is 530 metres above sea level, the hike begins on a higher ground of nearly 300 metres above sea level, so I only need to climb up about 230 metres. The trail to the peak of Bombalai Hill is about 1.9 kilometres one way. Normally it takes about an hour to reach the top. Overall, the climb is not tough, even beginners can do it. Wear a pair of anti-leech socks if you’re afraid of leech bite.

Fruits next to the trail of Bombalai Hill

When you face the front of the park entrance, turn left and walk 150 metres, from car park to the end of the paved road until you reach the building of staff accommodation. You will see a signage to Bombalai Hill, which points to a straight, wide and flat gravel and grass path next to an oil palm plantation.

Left: a weevil beetle. Right: a big fly

Just follow the grass path for less than 10 minutes, you will enter a forest edge with narrow soil trail with bushy sides. You should see a signage that says “Ke Puncak Bukit Bombalai”, which is translated as “To the Peak of Bombalai Hill.” (Bukit means Hill in Malay language)

Signage to the peak of Bombalai Hill (Bukit Bombalai) at the forest edge

Due to the tree shades, the surrounding is darker and the trail is flanked by dense undergrowth. Walk slowly and scan around, you would find many fruits, herb plants and flowers, e.g. ginger, orchid, begonia, among them. A couple of leeches would welcome you.

Left: Begonia plant. Right: wild “football fruits” or pangi fruits. The fruits are poisonous and can be used for food fermentation after treatment.

The lush rainforest covers all the traces of volcanism. This forested dead volcano is actually a green volcano full of lives. The cicada orchestra and bird calls never stop. My presence causes some commotion among the elusive tree-dwelling primates.

Left: pill millipede curled up as a defense. Right: flies feasting on a dropping (very smelly). Both play important role in decomposing organic matters in forest.

The eight species of primate found in this park are long-tailed macaque, pig-tailed macaque, red-leaf monkey, Borneo gibbons, orang-utans, tarsiers, slow loris and Gray-leaf Monkey. They flee before I can tell what they are, but very likely they are either macaques or red-leaf monkey.

The towering rainforest trees of Bombalai Hill

Tawau Hills Park is also a popular bird-watching site. I can hear the hoarse call and flapping wing of hornbills on the canopy. I recognise the calls of broadbill and pitta too. Of the 8 species of Hornbills known from Sabah, 6 species live here, namely, the Black, Bushy-crested, Helmeted, Rhinoceros, White-crowned and the Wreathed hornbills. Also, 3 species of the rare pheasants occur here, namely, Crested-fireback, Great argus and Malayan peacock pheasants.

Distance markers to the peak of Bombalai Hill (Bukit Bombalai)

The first 1 kilometre of the hike is mainly an easy walk on flat surface, with only a few gentle slopes. The distance markers every 100 metres are the progress bars that keep me motivated. I’m the only climber on the hill, but I don’t feel lonely in nature. I don’t worry about losing my way because the trail is well-trodden.

Vines and creepers on the tree. The left one looks like birds in flight. To survive, these plants need to climb high to reach for more sunlight.

The foothill is mainly lowland and secondary forest. As I climb higher, I see variety of trees, vines, liana, and creepers of hill dipterocarp forest flourishing on the fertile volcanic soil. Unlike the monodominant forests in temperate countries, the vegetation of Borneo rainforest is highly diversified.

A tree with big buttress on the trail. This structure allows the tree to stand firm on the shallow soil.

Reaching the Peak

The last 400 metres uphill trail to the peak is the most challenging part of the climb. There are some rope support at steep or slippery sections. About 100 metres before the ending point is a leisure walk on a ridge. It takes me 1.5 hour to reach the peak because I walk slowly to take pictures.

The steepest sections to the peak of Bombalai Hill. The rope support and stairway help a lot.
0 Meter signage on the peak to mark the end of the climb. The viewpoint platform is a short walk away on a ridge.

At the peak is a 2-level wooden viewpoint platform with an open view facing south-west. It’s a hazy day but I still can see oil palm plantation, Tawau plains, Sulawesi Sea, Sebatik Island, and other places more than 12 kilometres away.

The 2-level wooden viewpoint platform on the peak of Bombalai Hill (Bukit Bombalai)

As Bombalai Hill is surrounded by oil palm plantation from three sides, to be honest the panoramic view on top isn’t really fantastic. Anyway, I feel wonderful and worthwhile conquering an ancient volcano.

The old signages and triangulation station (trigonometrical point) on the peak

Just a trivia of Bombalai Hill. There is a secret cave used by the Japanese or resistance fighters during World War II at the peak of Bombalai Hill. Urban legends from all over the world say Japanese hide their war loot in caves and tunnels during WWII. Some treasure hunters believe this myth and excavate the site, though Sabah Parks has debunked that there is no gold.

View from the peak of Bombalai Hill. You can see large area of oil palm plantation.

The north side of Bombalai Hill is connected to the main forest of Tawau Hills Park, so the wildlife aren’t stuck on an isolated hill. From the high density of the birds and monkey living there, they seem to like Bombalai Hill a lot.

You can see Tawau town and Sebatik Island more than 12 km away from the peak (photo captured by camera with 8x optical zoom)

After the climb, don’t throw away your ticket. You can use it to enter the park headquarter (Tawau Hills Park) to take a dip in the river, visit the waterfall, sulphurous springs, botanical garden and one of tallest tropical tree in the world. The park also has toilet and canteen (Kantin Begonia) for visitors. For more information, you can contact Sabah Parks, the government agency that manages Tawau Hills Park.

Photos taken in Tawau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Sosodikon Hill, So Easy to Climb but Not a So-So Attraction

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In only 10 minutes, you can conquer a peak that is higher than the highest mountain of Johor, Penang, Melaka, Negeri Sembilan, and Perlis States. I’m talking about Sosodikon Hill in Kundasang of Sabah, Malaysia. Anyway, most people climb Sosodikon Hill for the rewarding view, not the height.

Location of the peak of Sosodikon Hill. The hill itself is on a highland that has an altitude higher than many mountains in Malaysia.

At an elevation of about 1,300 Metres (4,265 ft), Kundasang is the highest town of Malaysia. Kundasang is also the closest town to Mount Kinabalu, the highest mountain of Malaysia, and only 6 kilometres away from Kinabalu National Park, the second UNESCO Global Geopark of Malaysia. Coupled with cooling weather, this highland town is a popular vacation spot for local and foreign tourists.

Parking, starting point and ticket booth at Sosodikon Hill, which is situated on a gently-sloped plain of Pinousuk tilloid deposits originating from glacial-eroded boulders during the last ice age about 10,000 years ago in the tropical region.

The altitude of Sosodikon Hill is 1,465 Metres (4,806 ft) above sea level. Sound really tall right? Actually, if measured from its foothill, Sosodikon Hill is only about 70 Metres (230 ft) tall. Nevertheless, its peak allows you to have a panoramic view of Mount Kinabalu and Kundasang Valley.

Starting point of the hike to Sosodikon Hill

Some local Chinese like to make fun of the name “Sosodikon” because it sounds like “傻傻地看” (means staring foolishly) in Hakka dialect (no offense). Actually Sosodikon means “a place for laying traps” in Dusun language. When Sosodikon Hill was covered by thick forest in the past, the villagers frequently set traps there to hunt for wildlife such as deer and birds.

In clear day you can see Mount Kinabalu in the morning, before it’s covered by cloud after 8am

Is Sosodikon Hill worth a visit? Yes, if you love to take some beautiful photos of Mount Kinabalu and Kundasang Valley. You can frame a lot of things in the photos taken from the highest point of Kundasang. After all, the hike is so easy and take less than 15 minutes.

Do slow down to appreciate the flowers and ornamental plants along the trail

However, you are advised to reach the peak before 8am, the time Mount Kinabalu is still visible. In most days, Mount Kinabalu would be covered by dense cloud after 9am. If it’s misty or raining, climbing Sosodikon Hill may not worth your time.

Rock painted with rafflesia flower on the trail

Sosodikon Hill (see Location Map) is about 98 Kilometres from Kota Kinabalu City and quite accessible. If you plan to visit DESA dairy farm, you may include Sosodikon Hill in your itinerary as both places are near to each other. The road to the starting point is mainly paved road in ok condition. The last 800 Metres away from the main road to the starting point is a narrow cement and gravel road (no 4WD required).

It takes only 15 minutes or less to reach the peak of Sosodikon Hill

There are some parking spaces for cars within walking distance to the ticket booth, which is open from 6am to 5pm every day. You will be given a pass card after you pay the entrance fee, then you can start climbing the hill. No guide is required. The following is the entrance fee per person in Malaysian Ringgit:

  • Malaysian Adult (13 years old and above): RM5.00
  • Malaysian Child (7-12 years old): RM3.00
  • Foreigner Adult: RM10.00
  • Foreigner Child: RM5.00
  • Free admission for children 6 years old and below

Walk-in tourist is welcomed and no advance booking is needed. You may use the small toilet next to the booth before or after the hike.

Pyramid Hills at another side of Sosodikon Hill

The 300-metre trail to the peak is a well trodden soil path. As the trail isn’t very steep, you can walk up, without much climbing, to reach the peak between 10 to 15 minutes. Though it’s an easy short hike, you may walk slowly to enjoy the view. They planted some flowers and installed some decorations along the way.

Viewpoint platform on the peak of Sosodikon Hill. It could be a long queue during weekends and holidays.

The view of Mount Kinabalu was so breathtaking that I kept stopping to take some photos. The view got nicer and nicer when I was moving up. The weather was cooling and the morning sunlight was soft. This hill is mainly grassy slope with very few trees that offer shade, so you better apply sunscreen if you climb in the afternoon. It’s quite windy on top so please put on a jacket for a more comfortable walk.

Enjoy the view on the peak of Sosodikon Hill

The ending point is a colourful wooden platform with boardwalk on the highest point, where you can have a 360° view of Kundasang Valley under the majestic Mount Kinabalu.

View from the peak of Sosodikon Hill. The light blue building is the starting point.

Besides Mount Kinabalu, the rolling Pyramid Hills at another side is scenic as well. Pyramid Hills is an example of triangular facets (or faceted spur), a geomorphic feature produced by active fault movements that started 15 million years ago from the ongoing collision in Sabah. Stream erosion passing through the fault scarps create the triangular-shaped cliff face.

You can order the certificate of conquering Sosodikon Hill. For achiever only!

Unfortunately, some farmland has creeped into the foothill of Pyramid Hills. I hope the locals will spare these green hills from agriculture and development. In fact, due to land clearing, the temperature of Kundasang has risen to 18 to 30 Celsius now, compared to 10-18 Celsius before 1990. People should learn not to repeat the bad consequences that happen to the overdeveloped Cameron Highlands in Peninsular Malaysia.

You can try the ATV (all-terrain vehicle) at the foothill of Sosodikon Hill

Below are some channels for you to contact or follow the operator of Sosodikon Hill:
Phone (Whatsapp): +60 17-8956192
E-mail: sosodikonhill@gmail.com
Website: sosodikonhill.com
Instagram: sosodikonhill
Facebook: sosodikonhillkundasang

Photos taken in Kundasang, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Batu Punggul, the Sacred Hill of Sabah

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I was awed by the majestic Batu Punggul, a 220-Metre-high limestone pinnacle in Sapulut, in the interior of Sabah, Malaysia. Before it’s open to tourists in 1992, Batu Punggul is a sacred hill that is only mentioned in the books of Borneo adventurers. Its photograph looks like a giant tombstone standing tall above the mysterious rainforest.

There are 1,393 limestone outcrops or hills in Malaysia, with 911 of them located in Peninsular Malaysia, while 482 are in Sabah and Sarawak.

According to the legend of Murut people, Batu Punggul is a petrified longhouse, the result of a punishment by God to the people who mocked animals. The hill was used to be so high that it covered the sky until someone chopped it down and only its stump remains. Punggul means stump in Murut language hence Batu Punggul means stump-like rock.

There are a total of 218 limestone outcrops in Sabah. Of these outcrops, 149 are in the districts of Kinabatangan, Kudat and Lahad Datu.

Put aside its terrifying myth, Batu Punggul is the most unique and stunning pinnacle among the 218 limestone outcrops in Sabah. My late father had climbed Batu Punggul, so I followed his footsteps, to understand why his eyes sparkled whenever he talked about Batu Punggul. Though climbing this vertical hill sounds challenging, I’m sure most of you can conquer it.

About Batu Punggul

Batu Punggul is no ordinary hill because of its cultural and ecological values. Batu Punggul has been a legendary and sacred place to Murut people, the third largest indigenous group of Sabah. The locals respect Batu Punggul and have many stories about it.

Murut people and the traditional Murut longhouse, which can accommodate a number of families or even a village.

The most popular story on the formation of Batu Punggul is about two Murut longhouses, namely, Punggul and Tinagas, with Sapulut River ran between these two villages in the past. One day the people of Punggul longhouse had no fire to cook, so they asked Tinagas longhouse on the other side for fire. At first the Tinagas people tied a bundle of fire on the head of a dog and let it swam across the river. A big wave came and put out the fire. People of both longhouses laughed.

The villagers were laughing at the unlucky animals, but their God didn’t think that it’s funny.

Then the Tinagas people tied the fire on a cock and made it flied across the river to deliver the fire. But the river was too wide. The cock fell into the river. Everyone laughed again. Later someone mocked a leech that perched on a jar to drink tapai (rice or tapioca wine). Making fun of animals is a taboo in Murut. Their misbehavior angered the God Aki Kaulung, who turned these people and their longhouses into rocks immediately.

Making harmless fun to animals is probably acceptable in some cultures, but a big No-No to Murut people. (I need to clarify that the owner of this dog really loves his pet.)

After the punishment, Batu Punggul became a very tall limestone rock that blocked the sun and obstructed the sunlight needed for crops to grow, so a young man chopped down Batu Punggul. When the hill fell, it broke into smaller rocks which scattered along the downstream of Sapulut River. The Batu Punggul was left with a “stump” that we see today.

Location map of Sapulut and Batu Punggul. The adjacent Sungai Sansiang Virgin Forest Reserve covers an area of about 344 ha.

Batu Punggul is located within the Batu Punggul Forest Reserve (see Location Map) in the interior of Sabah, about 110 KM south of Keningau town. When logging was rampant in 1980s, Dr. Richard Gunting saved Batu Punggul and its surrounding forest from deforestation in 1986. In 2009, Batu Punggul Forest Reserve was gazetted as an Amenity Forest Reserve (Class IV), covering an area of 150 hectares (1.5 Square Kilometre).

Batu Punggul is a limestone pinnacle and a sacred hill for the locals. The girl at the right is Jariah, one of the guides.

Limestone is a type of rock that forms underwater from the structures of living organisms like coral and shells millions of years ago. When Borneo island raised from the ocean floor, a series of tectonic movements by earth lifted the limestone of Batu Punggul above the ground. It’s a blessing that Batu Punggul still survives today, when 32 (23%) of limestone outcrops in Sabah are being quarried for cement production.

You can read on or watch this video for a walkthrough of the climbing trip.

Tour to Batu Punggul

In the past, without the Keningau-Tawau highway, visitors had to withstand four or more hours of boat ride to reach Batu Punggul. Now climbing Batu Punggul can be a day trip (though an overnight trip is recommended). You can book the tour with Borneo Outback Tours (see their contact info near the end). The following is a walkthrough of my trip to Batu Punggul, which consists of river cruise, hiking and climbing.

Signage of Batu Punggul at Tataluan Village, next to the Keningau-Tawau road in Sapulut

The starting point of the tour is at Kampung Tataluan village in Sapulut (see Location Map). My journey starts with a morning river cruise on a wooden longboat from the Tataluan jetty around 9am. I see a lot of rocks along the river, which are said the chips from the fallen hill. The rocks of the poor dog and cock can be seen at the river too.

Taking a boat from the jetty of Kampung Tataluan to Batu Punggul. There is a small toilet before the jetty.

The river is flanked by dense forest. After a few minutes, I see Batu Punggul from a distance. Its presence is so powerful and spiritual that I got goosebumps. In 10 minutes, the boat reaches the entrance to Batu Punggul Forest Reserve. After a short briefing at the reception building of Sabah Forestry Department, we start walking to the starting point of the climb.

View of Batu Punggul from the boat. With me are Dr. Richard Gunting, Ms Wong from media and 3 guides from Orou Sapulot.

Walking to the Foothill of Batu Punggul

The hike from the jetty to the foothill of Batu Punggul takes about 30 minutes. This tropical rainforest is mostly untouched like a virgin forest. For the lucky visitors, they would see blooming rafflesia flower (Species: Rafflesia keithii). 596 taxa of plants are recorded in this forest and 20 of them are endemic to Sabah, and four of them are totally protected plant species.

Left: the Dog Rock at the river. Right: Entrance to Batu Punggul Forest Reserve

Majority of the trail is ascending path. It’s not very steep but quite a workout in this warm and humid forest. Leeches would be around during wet season, so you would need to wear anti-leech socks. I don’t find any leech in my visit. The dense trees shade us from the heat. It’s noisy in here because of the loud cicada calls everywhere.

Big tree and cave in Batu Punggul Forest Reserve. Numerous plants found in and around cave entrances are endemic to limestone. The cave was used as a refuge by the Muruts in times of wars and epidemics. The guy at the right is Josyen.

15 minutes later I reach a big cave. Visitors can enter the cave chamber to see some interesting limestone formations that resemble household items such as jar, the belongings of the longhouse inhabitants. There are a few limestone cave networks (e.g. Batu Tinahas Cave) in this forest reserve for those who are keen in caving.

Batu Punggul Forest Reserve is under the administration of the Tibow District Forestry Office (Sabah Forestry Department).

Climbing Batu Punggul

Finally we arrive the starting point of the climb. To cut down weight, you can leave the unnecessary items here, e.g. portable charger, hiking pole (pack them all in a plastic bag in case it rains). I only climb with a small backpack that carries a 1-Litre water bottle, raincoat and camera. I strongly advise you to apply sunblock lotion before the climb because it’s really hot up there.

Left: This white lantern bug (Species: Pyrops sultanus) is endemic to Borneo. Right: We saw this crested green lizard twice back and forth. It changed from green to black colour.

The starting point is already a test of bravery. You need to traverse sideway to cross a vertical wall. A misstep will be hazardous to your health. You can stop here if you don’t feel confident. Anyway, it’s a great photography spot to take photos that shock your mom.

The scary crossing at the starting point. It’s me in black clothing. Bravery is more useful than climbing skill in this trip.

The climb to the summit takes 45 minutes to an hour. Most people can reach the peak successfully if they are reasonably fit. You don’t need to be a trained rock climber, but some hiking experience and upper body strength (and courage!) would help a lot. The oldest climber who reaches the top of Batu Punggul is 74 years old.

The only available climbing aid are ropes and cables. Jariah looks tired.

The climbing trail is uneven and nearly vertical most of the time. With the help of ropes and cables, I move up slowly on steep boulder cliffs, looking for holes, dents and protrusions, on crevice, jagged edges, and cliff bands as handholds or footholds. The most tricky part is to climb over a few mildly overhanging rocks. The path is so narrow that I can only rest in standing position or leaning to the rocks, as there isn’t enough space to sit down.

Climbing the vertical limestone cliffs of Batu Punggul. Josyen is smiling, as if the climb is too easy for him.

The limestones are hard and sharp with rough surface, good for solid grips but it would scratch your skin. You are better off wearing gloves. I climb without one and get a minor cut on finger. The local believes that if you bleed in your first climb, the spirit is telling you that you will live a long life.

Normally it takes 45 minute to an hour to reach the top of Batu Punggul, depend on your fitness. At the left is Ms Wong Li Pin from media.

The vegetation changes from lowland rainforest to limestone forest, which is predominantly made up of small trees, shrubs and rich herbaceous layers. In Sabah, some of the more common plant species which grow on limestone are begonias (Begonia spp.), Paraboea sp., some ferns and aroids. Among the limestone endemic plant species that occur on Batu Punggul limestone are Tainia ponggolensis (orchid) and Begonia amphioxus. I do spend some time admiring the interesting plant and flowers.

Left: the silvery lucky plant, tawawo, probably a Bluemae. Right: Salung tangi, a magical ingredient for making love potion

I see a lot of whitish plant grows on the limestone. According to the locals, it’s called tawawo. You can put its leaves inside hunting rifle or wallet as a lucky charm. If tawawo is plucked in the morning, it will emit a soothing scent by 2 or 3pm. Give it to a girl. If she smells the aromatic scent, she will fall in love with you, they say.

Interesting plant and flower that grow on limestone of Batu Punggul. Note: plucking plant is forbidden in forest reserves.

We have three guides (Jariah, Josyen and Rosdin) who always keep an eye on us and tell us where to put our feet. Batu Punggul looks dangerous but it’s not really dangerous if you are careful. No severe injury occurs on this pinnacle before. Whatever, it’s still nerve-wracking when I’m crossing a few sections that are only one step away from a hundred-metre fall. My legs shiver whenever I see the cliff below my feet.

The hundred-metre drop is just next to the climber, one of the frightening moments.

The limestones are greyish white in the beginning. As we move closer to the peak, they are darker in colour due to weathering. The biggest challenge of this climb is not the steepness, but dehydration and heat exhaustion. My best advices for you are: bring more water, apply sunscreen, wear comfortable outdoor clothing and a pair of good hiking / climbing shoes. e.g. Adidas Kampung.

The blade-like limestones on top of Batu Punggul. The highest point is less than 30 Metres away from here.

On the top, watch out for a gap called Tapikon Ansawoh, which means “the place where husband and wife jump across”. The story is – a newly married couple was climbing Batu Punggul. When they came to this gap, the sweet husband stretched his legs across the opening, to let his wife walking on them to cross. However, his legs slipped because of her weight and both of them fell into the gap.

Watch out for this gap covered by plant. If you fall into that hole, the person at the right will see you free falling in the opening.

Finally I reach the highest point at 10:50am. It’s such a heroic moment, as if I unlock an achievement. Batu Punggul has no official height, but it is estimated that Batu Punggul is between 200 to 240 Metres high. From the top I have a panoramic view of Labang Valley, Batu Punggul forest reserve, Sungai Sansiang Virgin Forest Reserve, Sapulut River and the forested Batu Tinahas (another petrified longhouse). The locals have the custom of making a wish or throwing away misfortune (buang batang) on the peak. Feel free to try it.

We make it to the top! The high point far behind is Batu Tinahas (another petrified longhouse in the legend) covered by lush forest. In the photo are Jariah from Orou Sapluot (left) and Ms Wong Li Pin from media (right).

There is no tree on the peak to shade us from the scorching sun, so we don’t stay long, otherwise it would be cool to have our lunch on top with the scenic view. Descending is more difficult. Initially we plan to picnic at the pebble beach (river bank) after the climb, but the water level is too high. Therefore, we have some juicy watermelon at the jetty, a great refreshment to supplement ourselves with some sugar and electrolytes after heavy sweating.

Left: eating watermelon after the climb. Right: view of Batu Punggul from upstream Sapulut River. In front of me are Ms Wong and Dr. Richard.

About Sapulut (or Sapulot)

Sapulut is under the Nabawan district of Sabah interior. It is accessible by highway between Keningau and Tawau (part of Pan-Borneo Highway).

For a tour in Sapulut and Batu Punggul, you can contact Borneo Outback Tours Sdn Bhd (Licenses: Co. No. 846369-H / KPK / LN:9247) at:
Website: www.borneo.tours
Facebook: orou.sapulot
Instagram: @orousapulot
Phone: +60 19 2277077 (Whatsapp), +60 87 337 277
Address: A-7-2, Apollo Atrium, 89008 Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia

The tourism operations in Sapulut are managed by Orou Sapulot (means the Sun of Sapulot), a community based project to promote tourism and in sustainable manner.

References

For more information about Batu Punggul, you may check out the following materials:

  1. Jojo M. Fung, SJ (1998). “The Legendary Batu Punggul.” Sabah Society Journal, Vol. 15 (1998) 59-73
  2. Thor-Seng Liew, Junn-Kitt Foon, Gopalasamy Reuben Clements (2021). Conservation of Limestone Ecosystems of Malaysia, Part I and VII . Institute for Tropical Biology and Conservation, Universiti Malaysia Sabah, Kota Kinabalu
  3. RTM TV1 (Rancangan Rentas Peribumi). (2019, August 23). Kehidupan Masyarakat dan Kepercayaan Suku Kaum Murut Tagol di Batu Punggul dan Kampung Tataluan, Nabawan Sabah. [Video]. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mh2v40ytG1U

Photos taken in Sapulut , Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

10 Breathtaking Hills and Mountains of Sabah [Bonus: List of 140+ Hills and Mountains to Climb]

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Sabah is a state of hundred mountains, and the top five highest mountains of Malaysia are located in Sabah, i.e. (1st) Mount Kinabalu, (2nd) Mount Trus Madi, (3rd) Mount Sinsing, (4th) Mount Tambuyukon, (5th) Mount Kaingaran. Climbers and hikers will be spoiled with choices, as every hills and mountains here have different characteristics in terms of geology, landscape and biodiversity. For example, today you can climb a mountain with dense rainforest cover, then tomorrow challenge a limestone pinnacle with bald rockface. The following is a list of 10 most unique hills and mountains in Sabah for a diverse climbing experience. Please note gunung and bukit mean mountain and hill in Malay language respectively.

Location of (1) Mount Kinabalu, (2) Bukit Perahu, (3) Bukit Kokol, (4) Bukit Bongol, (5) Batu Punggul, (6) Mount Silam, (7) Mount Nombuyukong, (8) Bukit Lugas, (9) Bukit Tengkorak, and (10) Maragang Hill

1. Mount Kinabalu

Height: 4,095 Metres (13,435 ft)   Location: Kinabalu Park (GPS: 6.075260, 116.558813)

As the first UNESCO World Heritage Site and the highest mountain of Malaysia, Mount Kinabalu is the No.1 tourist destination of Sabah. Mount Kinabalu is 700 million years old, and a snow-capped mountain during ice age back in 30,000 years ago. Today climbers still can see the ancient traces and jagged peaks carved by glacier near the summit.

Mount Kinabalu is so prominent that you can see her in most parts of Sabah (even Sandakan in East Coast)

But what truly makes Mount Kinabalu special is its cloud forest which is high in plant endemism. On the way up, you would see bright-colored pitcher plant and rare orchid next to the trail. The majestic Mount Kinabalu is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places in Malaysia. The climb is about 8.7 Kilometres in distance and usually take 2 days 1 night. More Info…

Conquering Mount Kinabalu is in the bucket list of most Malaysians

2. Ruhiang Hill (Bukit Perahu)

Height: 300 Metres (984 ft)   Location: Tamparuli (GPS: 6.135493, 116.278955)

The locals say there are two ships stranded on the cone-shaped Ruhiang Hill. Actually they are two huge boulders that look like ships. The climb takes less than an hour.

For this view, you need to reach the top of Bukit Perahu before 8am. Mount Kinabalu would be covered in mist after 9pm

Early birds who reach the peak in early morning would be rewarded by the breathtaking view of Mount Kinabalu on a sea of cloud. I can’t help to imagine that I can get on a big ship to sail to Mount Kinabalu on the cloud. After the climb, the bonus is to eat Tamparuli Fried Noodle in Tamparuli town. More Info…

You would find many locals climbing Ruhiang Hill (Bukit Perahu) during weekends. See the ship-like boulder?

3. Bukit Kokol (Kokol Hill)

Height: 800 Metres (2,625 ft)   Location: Menggatal (GPS: 6.007611, 116.207367)

Two cool things draw many visitors to unwind on Kokol Hill. It is the nearest spot to escape the heat of Kota Kinabalu city, and its magnificent sunset view. You can just drive up there without climbing at all. If life is tough, have a cup of hot coffee in cooling breeze of Kokol Hill and enjoy the scenic view of Kota Kinabalu city and islands far away. To really free your mind, try paragliding on Kokol Hill. More Info…

The nice view, cooling temperature and paragliding are the highlight of Kokol Hill (Bukit Hill)

4. Bukit Bongol

Height: 500 Metres (1,730 ft)   Location: Kota Belud (GPS: 6.310287, 116.408424)

Want a fun hike with a group of friends? I heard a lot of praises about Bukit Bongol. The slopes are mostly gentle and the trail is less challenging. The whole hill is carpeted by grass, which is green in wet months and yellowish during drought, a spectacular scenery you all won’t forget. Climb to the high point before 9am and you would be lucky to see Mount Kinabalu, a perfect backdrop for your Instagram shots. More Info…

Bukit Bongol in Kota Belud is the most grassy hill of Sabah

5. Batu Punggul

Height: 244 Metres (800 ft)   Location: Nabawan (GPS: 4.607299, 116.587644)

Located in interior, where Murut headhunters roamed in the past, Batu Punggul is the most mysterious hill of Sabah. Legend says this limestone pinnacle is a longhouse being turned into rock by angry God because the villagers made fun of the animals. At the foothill there is a cave where you can find the “fossilized furniture” such as jar and table. Climbing this vertical 800-feet limestone pinnacle will peak your adrenaline rush, and nobody will question your bravery if you can conquer Batu Punggul. More Info…

Batu Punggul is a 800-feet limestone pinnacle in Sabah interior. Photo (left) by Sticky Rice Travel

6. Mount Silam

Height: 884 Metres (2,900 ft)   Location: Lahad Datu (GPS: 4.956901, 118.165534)

You don’t need to get on a plane to have a bird-eye view of this beautiful land. Just visit the tower of heaven on Mount Silam, where you can see the picturesque scenery of Darvel Bay. The air up there is refreshing and the peak is covered in fog sometimes. Beside the tower is a nature trail that leads you to an alien world filled with mossy forest, forest crabs, rare orchid, pitcher plant, etc. More Info…

The view of Darvel Bay, mossy forest and Tower of Heaven on Mount Silam

7. Mount Nombuyukong

Height: 1,603.57 Metres (5,261 ft)   Location: Kota Marudu (GPS: 6.275650, 116.687114)

Mount Nombuyukong is another mountain in north of Kinabalu Park. Its pointy peak kind of triggering my insect-like instinct that motivates me to crawl to its tip. The climb is quite challenging but takes only half a day. This is a forested mountain for nature lovers who appreciate the fauna and flora in tropical rainforest of Borneo. You won’t be disappointed when you see so many interesting fungus, flowers, trees, and birds along the way. More Info…

Mount Nombuyukong is one of the mountains in Kinabalu Park (Serinsim Substation, Kota Marudu)

8. Bukit Lugas

Height: 600 Metres (1,965 feet) above sea level   Location: Tambunan (GPS: 5.506507, 116.277218)

This is a great example to inspire a person that he doesn’t need to be tall to be attractive, if he has awesome characteristics. Bukit Lugas is just a small hill, but it has an impressive ridge that looks like dragon spine. Though the narrow path is a nightmare for people with acrophobia, they still want to try it. Anyway, it is safer than it seems. This hidden dragon is exposed when its pictures went viral a few years ago. More Info…

Ridge walk on Bukit Lugas

9. Bukit Tengkorak (Skull Hill)

Height: 183 Metres (597 ft)   Location: Semporna (GPS: 4.438507, 118.619756)

Bukit Tengkorak is part of an ancient volcanic rim (about 2 KM in diameter) and the largest pottery making site in Southeast Asia during the Neolithic period (about 3,000 years ago). It is estimated that more than 6 million prehistoric potsherds found on this hill, and you would see hundred of pottery potsherds on the way up.

Beautiful grassland on Bukit Tengkorak (Skull Hill)

On top of this hill, you can have a panoramic view of Semporna town and islands. You can go further behind to explore the grassy knolls dotted with black volcanic rocks, to bag some amazing profile photos. More Info…

Black volcanic rocks on Bukit Tengkorak (Skull Hill)

10. Maragang Hill

Height: 2,232 Metres (7,323 ft)   Location: Mesilau (GPS: 6.039138, 116.585750)

The distance between the peaks of Mount Kinabalu and Maragang Hill is only 5 Kilometres! This makes Maragang Hill the best viewpoint for the highest mountain of Malaysia. The viewing platform on the peak allows you to capture Mount Kinabalu, lush montane forest and blue sky in one frame.

Looking at Mount Kinabalu from Maragang Hill

The 4-Kilometre climb is fairly easy and takes only an hour. A camping site is available nearby for those who want to stay back for stargazing. More Info…

View of Mount Kinabalu from cockpit. Photos courtesy of Allan Koay

List of Hills and Mountains in Sabah

The list doesn’t end here. The following is a list of over 140 hills / mountains grouped by city and towns. Please note that not all of them are tourist-ready. Some destinations would require you to hire a guide or apply an entry permit. I try to link them to some useful websites (informative articles are so hard to come by nowadays). Please note the height is measured from sea level (above sea level or asl).

Beaufort

  1. Bukit Balibata

Keningau and Sook

  1. Gunung Alab (2,050 Metres / 6,726 ft)
  2. Bukit Donguan: Facebook
  3. Bukit Janda
  4. Bukit Kosimbut (534 Metres / 1752 ft): Facebook, video
  5. Bukit Kulanga: Facebook, video
  6. Bukit Naundarangan: video
  7. Bukit Malik
  8. Bukit Matanoi: Facebook
  9. Bukit Selomitha: Facebook
  10. Bukit Sigup
  11. Bukit Soborong
  12. Bukit Trig Apin-Apin (574 Metres / 1,883 ft)
  13. Chanang Hill
  14. Bukit Durian: Facebook
  15. Nulu Gundi: Facebook
  16. Bukit Bandukan
  17. Bukit Baverly Kikiran
  18. Bukit Gonipis
  19. Bukit Kara
  20. Bukit Kawah
  21. Bukit Masin
  22. Bukit Silui Mandanan
  23. Bukit Sumbiling Kikiran
  24. Puncak Dimie (Mile 16 Jalan Kimanis – Keningau)
Peak of Mount Nopungguk (1,430 Metres / 4,692 ft) in Kota Belud

Kota Belud

  1. Mount Nopungguk (1,430 Metres / 4,692 ft)
  2. Bukit Bongol (527 Metres / 1,730 ft)
  3. Mount Nungkok (1,652 Metres / 5,420 ft): article 1, article 2, video
  4. Puncak Donggiranuk (736 Metres / 2414 ft): Facebook
  5. Bukit Bendera: video 1, video 2
  6. Bukit Budu Sundu (599 Metres / 1,965 ft)
  7. Bukit Garas (690 Metres / 2,264 ft)
  8. Bukit Pakis (184 Metres / 604 ft): video
  9. Bukit Tinjau (video)
  10. Bukit Tunggul (video)
  11. Bukit Singkug
  12. Gunung Minodtuhan (2,360 Metres / 7,743 ft): video
  13. Bukit Pinontungan (1,119.6 Metres / 3,673 ft)
  14. Bukit Bogung via purak ogis (866 Metres / 2841 ft)
  15. Bukit Karak: video
  16. Bukit Kowatuan (986 Metres / 3,235 ft): Facebook
  17. Bukit Kolumpisau (1,033 Metres / 3,389 ft)
  18. Dulu Hill: video, Facebook
  19. Nandal Hill: video
  20. Nulu Koimayaan: Facebook
  21. Gunung Sadok
  22. Bukit Bagong via narinang
  23. Bukit Kujau
  24. Bukit Mogilin
  25. Bukit Trinity Kg Pandat
Bukit Botak / Bukit Gundul in Sepanggar is named after its bald top

Kota Kinabalu (KK)

  1. Bukit Kokol / Kokol Hill
  2. Bonduk Hill (Bukit Gundul / Bukit Botak)
  3. Bukit Padang, famous jogging park of KK people
  4. Bukit Helang (at Kg. Kebagu, Sepanggar): Facebook, video
  5. Bukit Janggut (300 Metres / 984 ft): video 1, video 2
  6. Bukit Kopungit
  7. Bukit Tuah (660 Metres / 2,165 ft)
  8. Kolonutan Hill (575 Metres / 1,886 ft): Facebook
  9. Signal Hill
  10. Sinundu Hill: video 1, video 2
  11. UMS Peak (190 Metres / 623 ft): video
  12. Bukit Bubuk
  13. Bukit Lumpugou

Kota Marudu

  1. Gunung Nombuyukong (1,603.57 Metres / 5,261 ft)
  2. Gunung Minitinduk (1,059 Metres / 3,474 ft): video
  3. Bukit Cinta
  4. Bukit Pancaran /TV
  5. Bukit Doa
  6. Bukit Lotong
  7. Bukit Mundan: Facebook, video
  8. Bukit Tagaroh
  9. Rumun Kondiu Hill (715 Metres / 2,347 ft): Facebook, video
  10. Sagang Hill: Facebook, video
  11. Mt. Cochrane (580 Metres / 1,903 ft): video
You can see Philippines from the top of Senambung Hill, Banggi Island

Kudat

  1. Gumantung Hill (405 Metres / 1,329 ft), Matunggong: Facebook, Video
  2. Senambung / Sinambung Hill (529 Metres / 1,736 ft), Banggi Island: Video

Kunak

  1. Bukit Madai, edible bird nest mountain
  2. Bukit Tongkat Ali
  3. Bukit Pidung
  4. Bukit Tisop (Madai Cave): video
Pyramid Hills of Kundasang

Kundasang and Ranau

  1. Mount Kinabalu (4,095 Metres / 13,435 ft), the highest mountain of Malaysia
  2. Mount Tambuyukon (2,579 Metres / 8,461 ft), the 4th highest mountain of Malaysia (tough!)
  3. Mount Mantapok (1,481 Metres / 4,959 ft): Facebook, video
  4. Maragang Hill (2,232 Metres / 7,323 ft): Facebook, Video
  5. Bukit Lugas Kg Waang Ranau (1,215 Metres / 3,986 ft): Facebook
  6. Sosodikon Hill / Bukit Pyramid (1,465 Metres / 4,806 ft): Facebook, video
  7. Bukit Dompurungon
  8. Bukit Hampuan Forest Reserve
  9. Bukit Kamunsu, Sabah Tea Garden
  10. Bukit Kimondou, Kg. Kibbas (899 Metres / 2,950 ft): video, Facebook
  11. Tinorindak Hill (2,330 Metres / 7,644 ft)
  12. Bukit Babi (Swine or Pig Hill)
Mountain range of Mount Tambuyukon, the third highest mountain of Malaysia. You can tell it is hard to climb.

Lahad Datu

  1. Mount Silam
  2. Bukit Piton: Facebook
  3. Bukit Belacon: video 1, video 2
  4. Bukit Klasik (Classic Hill): video
  5. Taruakan Hill, Pulau Sakar: Facebook, video
  6. Mount Danum (1,093 Metres / 3,586 ft)

Long Pasia

  1. Bukit Botoii: video

Membakut

  1. Bukit Samudera
There are many unnamed hills in Sabah, like those in Balambangan Island

Papar / Kinarut

  1. Bukit Bendera
  2. Bukit Boya, Outward Bound School
  3. Kinandukan Hill / Bukit Kinandukan Kelanahan (135 Metres / 443 ft): Facebook, video
  4. Bukit Kuburan
  5. Bukit Lumagas

Pitas

  1. Morovidu Hill: video
  2. Piniapat Hill (141 Metres / 463 ft): Facebook, Video
  3. Mondou Hill (Bukit Mondou) (<80 Metres)
  4. Bukit Tudturan
Batu Tulug Hill in Kinabatangan. Its caves are ancient burial site with 125 wooden coffins of 200 to 250 years old

Sandakan / Kinabatangan

  1. Batu Tulug, the coffin hill (ancient burial site)
  2. Berhala Island (Peak 1: Menara Api, Peak 2: Bohey Dulang)
  3. Bukit Leila
  4. Bukit Mawar
  5. Bukit Sim Sim
  6. Bukit Sundang
  7. Bukit Trig
  8. Bukit Seguntor or IOI Peak (305 Metres / 1,001 ft): video 1, video 2
  9. Mount Walker
  10. Bukit Melanta
  11. Bukit Nenas
  12. Bukit Sapa Taring

Sapulut

  1. Batu Punggul (244 Metres / 800 ft)

Semporna

  1. Bukit Tengkorak / Skull Hill (183 Metres / 597 ft)
  2. Bohey Dulang, beautiful sea view of Semporna Islands Park
  3. Bukit Kemiri
  4. Bukit Parapat: video
  5. Bukit Pokas
  6. Mount Conner (368 Metres / 1,207 ft): video
Bohey Dulang Island of Tun Sakaran Marine Park, Semporna. The sea view on top of these hills is super awesome

Sipitang

  1. Mount Lumaku (1,900 Metres / 6,234 ft)
  2. Mount Rimau / Senipung Hill (2,025 Metres / 6,644 ft), Long Pasia
  3. Gunung Muruk Miau
  4. Bukit Tampalagas: video
Hanging garden of Mount Trus Madi. Can you spot the climbers?

Tambunan

  1. Mount Trus Madi (2,642 Metres / 8,668 ft), the second highest mountain of Malaysia
  2. Gunung Wakid (1,372 Metres / 4,501 ft)
  3. Gunung Sinsing (2,586 Metres / 8,484 ft) and Gunung Kaingaran (2,468 Metres / 8,097 ft): article 1, article 2, video
  4. Bukit Dandab / Dandab Hill (Tambunan Viewing Point or Sinurambi)
  5. Bukit Lugas
  6. Bukit Dampasak (950 Metres / 3,117 ft)
  7. Bukit Kolindasan (1,130 Metres / 3,707 ft)
  8. Bukit Kalas (Kg Tontolob)
  9. Bukit Kimbolung
Gunung Wakid in Tambunan

Tamparuli

  1. Ruhiang Hill / Bukit Perahu (300 Metres / 984 ft)
  2. Bukit Kusai
  3. Bukit Mayang
  4. Mara Kara Hill (641 Metres / 2,103 ft): Facebook, Videos (part 1, part 2)
  5. Malba Trig Hill
  6. Nomburungui Hill
  7. Bukit Talantang (332 Metres / 1,089 ft)
  8. Bukit Sinagang
  9. Bukit Kulintangan

Tawau

  1. Bombalai Hill (530 Metres / 1,089 ft), ancient volcano rim
  2. Mount Lucia (1,240 Metres / 4,068 ft) & Mount Magdalena (1,312 Metres / 4,304 ft): video (part 1, 2, 3, 4)
  3. Mount Wullersdorf, Balung: Facebook, video
  4. Mount Lutong (1,675 Metres / 5,436 ft): highest point of Maliau Basin
  5. Bukit Pancang (Bukit Tinagat) (398 Metres / 1,306 ft): video
  6. Bukit Gemok (428 Metres / 1,404 ft)
  7. Bukit 38
  8. Bukit Akar: video
  9. Bukit Cinta (276 Metres / 906 ft): video
  10. Bukit Hero: video
  11. Bukit Kayawan: video
  12. Bukit King Kong (Batu Payung): video 1, video 2
  13. Bukit Lim Man Kui: video
  14. Bukit Lipan
  15. Bukit Middle
  16. Bukit Sungai Udin
  17. Bukit Tiger (407.9 Metres / 1,338 ft)
  18. Bukit Tukok, Kalabakan
  19. Lion Hill
  20. Gunung Maria
  21. Mount Mostyn (495 Metres / 1,624 ft)
  22. Bukit Batu Hitam
  23. Bukit Lika / Bukit Botak
  24. Bukit Sumundu
Bukit Tirig in Telipok. Behind is the mangrove forest

Telipok

  1. Bukit Nulu Kebayau
  2. Bukit Tirig, Kg. Lapasan
  3. Bukit Binaong
  4. Bukit Kayu Madang
  5. Bukit Malawa
  6. Bukit Payung

Tenom

  1. Bukit Layang-Layang
  2. Bukit Rukud (281 Metres / 922 ft): video

Telupid

  1. Mount Meliau (1,336 Metres / 4,383 ft): video
  2. Bukit Doji
  3. Bukit Microwave

Tongod

  1. Bukit RISM (Gunung Tinkar) (584.2 Metres / 1,917 ft), Centre of Sabah
Bukit RISM in the Centre of Sabah. This monument is built by Royal Institution of Surveyors Malaysia (RISM)

Tuaran & Kiulu

  1. Bukit Nuluh Lapai
  2. Bukit Kapur
  3. Bukit Ketam, Tenghilan Tuaran: video 1, video 2
  4. Bukit Merlin / Morokolingn
  5. Bukit Merah, Karambunai
  6. Bukit Purak Mato, Kiulu (720 Metres / 2,362 ft)
  7. Bukit Tompinangan / Gray Hill
  8. Bukit Tungkalingan
  9. Dapako Hill, Kiulu (598 Metres / 1,961 ft): Facebook, video
  10. Kokobuan Trig Hill (950 Metres / 3117 ft): Facebook, video
  11. Sangod Hill: Facebook
  12. The Peak of Hope

It would take you almost 3 years to conquer all of them, even if you climb a new one every week, and there are probably hundred more new mountains to be added to this list in future. For every mountain that we conquer, it’s like making a new friend and you will always want to go back again. Stay safe and happy climbing!

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

How to Climb Mount Kinabalu and How Much it Cost? [Year 2024]

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Standing majestically at 4,095 Meters (13,435 feet), Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain of Malaysia. Mt. Kinabalu derives its name from the Kadazan word, Aki Nabalu, meaning ‘the revered place of the dead’. It is one of the most conquerable peaks in the world. This guide will help you to reach the summit of Mount Kinabalu, with some info that travel agents don’t want you to know.

Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain of Borneo and Malaysia and part of Kinabalu Park. Kinabalu Park is now a Unesco Global Geopark.
  1. The maximum number of climbers (daily quota) is 165 climbers per day.
  2. Climb Permit fee is now RM400 for foreigner; RM100 for Malaysian. Half price if the climber is below 18 years old.
  3. Child under 16 must be accompanied by a dedicated Mountain Guide. Each Mountain Guide can only take up to 2 children (or up to 5 adult climbers).
  4. Mountain Guide who takes care of children will not guide adult climber. For example, if your group has 3 adult and a child (below 16) climbers, you must hire two mountain guides (one to take care of adults, another one for child only).
  5. The rate of mountain guide service (mandatory) is RM350.
  6. Porter service (optional) costs RM14 per Kilogram (Kg).
  7. You may follow the Facebook of Sabah Parks for latest news and promotion.

Mount Kinabalu’s specialty lies in its location at a renowned World Heritage Site – Kinabalu Park. Nature lovers will be delighted to be able to witness the many variations of flora and fauna that are to be found on the mountain at different altitudes.

1. How much does it cost?

Quick Answer: The lowest budget for climbing Mount Kinabalu is about RM1,019 (≈USD237) for Non-Malaysian Tourist and RM444 for Malaysian (Based on the rates of year 2023, for adult climber who shares guide fee with others). The cost includes accommodation (at Panalaban), meals, shared mountain guide fee, conservation fee, climb permit, and insurance. Please download the Excel file to see the itemized budget.

  1. The Best Time to climb Mt. Kinabalu is between March and August, which are the dry seasons of Sabah. The peak season is Apr to Jun.
  2. You can climb in other months, but try to avoid Dec and Jan, which are the wettest months, due to the North-East Monsoon
  3. The mountain accommodation area (known as Panalaban), where Laban Rata Rest House and hostels located, is 2.72 KM before the summit of Mt. Kinabalu. Most climbers overnight here before conquering Mt. Kinabalu in next morning.
  4. If you are not allowed to climb to the summit of Mt. Kinabalu due to bad weather, there is No Refund.
Panalaban is the area where mountain accommodations located. It’s called Laban Rata previously.

How to Book a Climb Package

Booking the one-night Accommodation at Panalaban (formerly Laban Rata) is the FIRST step. You can’t climb Mt. Kinabalu if you haven’t reserved any room on the mountain. Camping on the mountain is not allowed.

Important notes:

  1. You must book at least 6 months in advance. The park allows only 80 climbers to climb per day, due to conservation and limited rooms, so the accommodation is always fully booked.
  2. Never, I repeat, never book with any individual who claims that he is a guide and can offer you very low price. Many tourists have been scammed and lost their money. Only book with licensed travel agents and legitimate operators (i.e. Sutera Sanctuary Lodge and Sabah Parks).
  3. Conquering Mt. Kinabalu requires only 2 days 1 night.
  4. However, to let climbers to get used to high altitude, Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (management of Laban Rata Resthouse) usually sells you 3-day-2-night accommodation (with 1 extra night at Kinabalu Park, foothill of Mt. Kinabalu).
  5. The cheaper accommodations, Panar Laban Hut, Waras Hut, Panalaban Hostels and Lemaing Hostel are next to Laban Rata Resthouse.
  6. All accommodation package is inclusive of full meals (buffet style).

There are four ways to book the climb package:

1. Book with Travel Agent

If you can afford, just book the tour package with licensed tour agents of Sabah. Though you will pay more, they will take care of everything, from transportation, registration, to the end of climb. This is the Best option.

2. Book with Sabah Parks

Next to Laban Rata Resthouse, Lemaing Hostel and Panalaban Hostels are new (and cheaper) accommodation available to climbers. Lemaing Hostel is only open to Malaysian climbers, and Panalaban Hostels is open to both Malaysian and international climbers. You can book the accommodation directly with Sabah Parks, the management of these hostels. Please note you need to to pay other mandatory fees such as climb permit, insurance and guide fee, besides the meals and accommodation there.

Accommodations on Mount Kinabalu (Panalaban). Mokodou and Kinotoki are under Panalaban Hostels. Photo courtesy of Sabah Parks.

A) Lemaing Hostel (for Malaysian only)

Open in 2014, this hostel has 75 bunk beds . (RM is Malaysian Ringgit (MYR). USD1.00 can exchange about RM4.20)
Accommodation & Meals: RM340
Insurance: RM10
Climb Permit: RM100 (adult), RM50 (below 18)

Left: Bunk Beds of Lemaing Hostel. Right: Beds of Panalaban Hostels. Both hostels have shared bathroom and toilet. Latest check-out time is 10:30am.

B) Panalaban Hostels (for Malaysian and Foreigner)

Open in 2019, Panalaban Hostels (Kinotoki and Mokodou) can accommodate 50 climbers.
Accommodation & Meals: RM430
Insurance: RM10
Climb Permit: (Malaysian rate) RM100 (adult), RM50 (below 18); (Foreigner Rate) RM400 (adult), RM200 (below 18)

Climbing and accommodation fees (year 2023) of Panalaban (left) and Lemaing (right) Hostels. Note: Lemaing Hostel is open for Malaysians only.

Sabah Parks Contact:

You can visit Sabah Parks office located in KK Times Square (Kota Kinabalu City) to book room and make payment:
Opening Hour: 8:00AM – 5:00PM, Mon-Fri (closed on Sat, Sun & Public Holiday)
Phone: +60 88-523531 / +60 88-523572
E-mail: reservation2023@sabahparks.org.my, sabahparks@gmail.com
Website: www.sabahparks.org.my
Facebook: SbhParks
Booking Website: reservation.sabahparks.org.my (Phone: +60 88-273238, E-mail: contactus@terazglobal.com.my)

Left: Lemaing Hostel, Right: Panalaban Hostel (Mokodou & Kinotoki). Photo Credit: Sabah Parks

3. Book with Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (SSL)

SSL is the management of accommodation in Kinabalu Park and Laban Rata Resthouse. For booking, you can contact them at:
E-mail: info@suterasanctuarylodges.com.my
Tel: +60 88 308 914 / 308 915 / 308 916
Website: www.suterasanctuarylodges.com.my
Facebook: SuteraSanctuary
Address: B-G-9, Block B, Ground Floor, Sutera Avenue, Lorong Lebuh Sutera, Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia. (see location map)
Business Hours: 9am-5pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-1pm (Sat), close on Sun & Public Holiday

Online Booking is available in website of Sutera Sanctuary Lodges. You may drop by the office of SSL, which is located in ground floor of Sutera Avenue. Besides booking, the friendly staffs can answer all your questions on the spot. They can arrange full transport service for you too (the fees are quite high though).

4. Mountain TORQ

You can join the Via Ferrata tour by Mountain TORQ (Facebook: @MountainTorqGroup), which has a rock climbing training centre and accommodation (Pendant Hut) at Panalaban. However, you need to be really fit.

Trail map to the summit of Mount Kinabalu. There are two summit routes, Ranau Trail and Kota Belud Trail, and both start from Panalaban. Ranau trail is the default route as it’s easier to climb.

Itinerary of the Climb

Below is a run-down of the 3-day-2-night climbing tour in brief.

Day 1

Check-in to overnight at Kinabalu Park (see location map), which is 88 KM away from Kota Kinabalu (KK). The extra night helps your body to adapt to the height so you will be less vulnerable to Altitude Sickness (acute mountain sickness) in the climb next day. Here is a list of accommodations near Kinabalu Park.

Day 2

9am: Bring your ID card (e.g. MyKad), invoice and QR Code of confirmed booking. Register and pay fees (climb permit, insurance, guide, etc.) by cash to Sabah Parks at Kinabalu Park HQ. Collect your name tag (climb permit) and packed lunch (usually consists of sandwiches, candy bar and a fruit, with a small bottle of drinking water), then meet your guide and porter (if hired). You also can arrange the return transport (by shuttle van) there to transfer you between gate and park for a fee. Be there before 10:30am or they won’t allow you to climb.
9:30am: Transfer to Timpohon Gate, the starting point of the climb.
10am: Start of Climb, after briefing by guide!
4pm: Reach Panalaban after 6 KM. Usually it takes 6 to 8 hours, depend on your fitness.
– Dinner buffet at Laban Rata Rest House (closed by 7:30pm)
– Overnight at the rest house or hostels of Panalaban

Left: Registration, fee payment, return transport and hiring of guide / porter are done at the left side of Kinabalu Park HQ (see yellow arrow). Right: climbers meet their mountain guide, and hand over part of their baggage to the porters.

Day 3

2am: Gather and having breakfast at Laban Rata Rest House, then head to the summit (2.75 KM one way).
(The park may not allow you to climb in bad weather)
6am: Reaching the summit (Low’s Peak) of Mount Kinabalu
7am: Descending to Panalaban
10am: Check-out and descend to Kinabalu Park
2:00pm: Back to Kota Kinabalu City

This can be you. Just imagine.

Photo Walk-through

Below are the photo walk-through of the 2-day climb in chronological order. Standard climb will use the Ranau summit trail (open on 1 Dec 2015). Note: The starting point is in Kinabalu Park, not Ranau town! Or you can watch the video below:

Day 1: Climbing to Panalaban

The standard trail starts from the Timpohon Gate (1,800m / 5,906 ft) which is about 4 KM away from the Kinabalu Park Headquarters. The climb from Timpohon Gate to Panalaban (Laban Rata) normally takes 6 to 8 hours (for 6 KM). You can buy basic supply such as snacks, drink and raincoat in the small shop inside the building.

Left: Timpohon Gate, the starting point of the climb. Right: public toilet 50 Metres before Timpohon Gate

There is a signage or trail marker every 0.5 or 1 KM to show you how far you climb. Use them to motivate yourself.

Left: You will see the small Carson Waterfall fairly soon. Middle & Right: Signage and trail marker along the trail.

Before reaching Panalaban (3,273m / 10,738 ft above sea level), climbers can stop and rest at seven shelters (pondok) along the way — Pondok Kandis, Pondok Ubah, Pondok Lowii, Pondok Mempening, Layang-Layang, Pondok Villosa, and Pondok Paka.

There is a shelter every 1 KM, where you can take a break, refill water (untreated spring water), use the toilet and dump your trash. Around noon time, most climbers are half-way up there and have their lunch at Mempening or Layang-Layang Shelter. The cute and friendly Bornean Mountain Ground Squirrel (Dremomys everetti) would approach you for food. Please don’t feed them!

The trails to Panalaban look like these most of the time.

The 6-Kilometre trail to Panalaban is clear and in moderate steepness most of the time. All steep sections have support such as hand rail and stairway. You will feel more like walking on endless staircase than climbing. Just go slow and enjoy the scenic view. As you move higher, you can feel the drop of temperature and the surrounding is getting more and more foggy. The ground is covered with green mosses and many trees and shrubs have epiphytes and lichens on them. What you experience is a walk in the cloud forest (montane forest), which grows above 1,800 Metres above sea level.

Some interesting plant along the summit trail of Kinabalu Park. The pink flower is Kinabalu Balsam (Impatiens kinabaluensis), which is endemic to Borneo and quite common in first 2 KM of summit trail. The highlight is the pitcher plant (Nepenthes villosa).

Along the trails, be sure to keep your eyes open for the plenteous interesting vegetation to check out. The unique ecology is what makes Kinabalu Park the UNESCO World Heritage Site, not just the Mt. Kinabalu. Kinabalu Park has the highest density of orchid species in the world. Climbers could spot blooming orchid and rhododendron next to the trail. After 4 KM, pay attention to your left and look for the big and bright-color Nepenthes villosa pitcher plant in the shrubs. This species is endemic to Kinabalu Park of Sabah.

The rocks on the “yellow path” are ancient old rocks.

Between 4 and 5 KM is a long section of trail in yellow colour. These yellowish rocks are 40-million-year-old ultrabasic or ultramafic rocks. This area is dominated by dwarf and crooked trees (Leptospermum recurvum), some are over a hundred years old. This tree is one of the few plant that can adapt to the toxic ultrabasic soil.

If you reach the trail with many big granite boulders laying around, you are near to Panalaban.

When you see many big dark-grey boulders on the trail, congratulations! Though Panalaban is only a Kilometre away now, the trail is quite steep from now on. These boulders are slippery after rain so watch your steps. A walking pole will help you to balance.

Panalaban is the ending point of your climb on day 1. The building at the left is Laban Rata Resthouse.

Hooray! You are now 3,272 metres above sea level. This is the place where climbers spend a night. The restaurant of Laban Rata Resthouse is where you claim your warm buffet meals. You better reach Panalaban before the restaurant closes at 7:30pm. Ala carte meals are available too.

Restaurant in Laban Rata Resthouse (Opening Hours: 7:30am-7:30pm and 2:00am-3:30am)

The scenery at Panalaban is fantastic! Just enjoy the view with a cup of coffee at the balcony, and look at the dense cloud under your feet. The sunset view at Panalaban is one of the best in Sabah. There is a small shop in the restaurant that sells items such as snacks, instant noodle, drink, poncho, medicines, postcards, etc. but at a higher price.

Left: sending postcards from the highest postbox in Malaysia. Right: amazing sunset at Panalaban

FYI, you can send postcard from the highest post box of Malaysia, which is located next to Pendant Hut in Panalaban. There are overnight accommodations provided for climbers on the mountain (Laban Rata Rest House, Waras Hut, Lemaing Hostel and Panalaban Hostels). The rooms are humbly decorated but are comfortably equipped thick blankets, bunk beds, as well as clean drinking water.

Left: bunk bed of Lemaing Hostel. Right: It’s cold at Panalaban.

The temperature at Panalaban can drop below 10°C (50°F) and a windy day makes it worse. Except some premium rooms in Laban Rata Resthouse, most rooms don’t have any heater. The water heater doesn’t always work. Tell you a secret. Many climbers skip shower because it’s too cold.

Good Night! Sleep earlier because you need to wake up very early next day.

“Though perhaps not the highest mountain in the world, it is of immense height” (captain Alexander Dalrymple, 1769)

Please note this walk-through only covers the standard summit trail named Ranau Trail. If you want to know more about another new summit trail, which is more challenging, please read this page about Kota Belud Trail.

Day 2: Conquering Mount Kinabalu

The climb to the summit resumes at 2am the next morning. The climb from Panalaban to the summit is about 2.72 KM and normally takes 4 to 5 hours. To cut down weight, you can leave the unnecessary stuffs in your room. There is no water point on the way (except Sayat-Sayat checkpoint). Carrying 1 Litre of water is quite enough as you won’t feel really thirsty under cold temperature. You also need torchlight (or LED headlamp), warm clothing and poncho.

Left: In Ranau Trail, you can see the night view of Ranau town. Right: Boardwalk of Ranau trail

After briefing by your mountain guide, the ascend will start with nearly two hours of steep staircase climbing in the dark. The only way is up. You can see long line of torchlight of other climbers. You will be tired, stop and gasping for air for many times. Without air and light pollution, the sky is full of stars, a beautiful view you will never forget.

Ranau trail of Mount Kinabalu, not difficult but tiring.
Left: The rope section. Right: Sayat-Sayat Checkpoint

Then you will come to the rope section, the most challenging part that requires you to hold onto a rope to move up for a few hundreds metres. Soon you will be happy to see the Sayat-Sayat checkpoint. Climbers can rest there for a while and use the last toilet on the mountain trail.

Left: Rockface path. Right: The bald surface on Mount Kinabalu

After Sayat-Sayat, the trail will be mainly rock surface with 15 to 20 degrees of inclination. The dense vegetation is replaced by scarce summit plant on the bald granite ground.

Left: South Peak in the RM100 bill of Malaysia. Right: friendly climbers from Peninsular Malaysia

Anyway, the scenery just gets better at this point. In fact, it’s one of the most beautiful places in Malaysia. You are like wandering in another planet and admire the jagged peaks around you. The most photogenic peaks are the Donkey Ears Peak and South Peak.

Left: Signage at 8th KM. Right: Wishing Pool under Low’s Peak, always filled with coins

The air on the mountain is 20% thinner near the top of Mount Kinabalu. You will feel that your body is heavy and every move takes a lot of energy. Due to exhaustion, nine out of ten climbers would start to curse and say “why am I doing here?”. Though they complain, after the climb they will miss this mountain and come back again lol.

Low’s Peak, the highest peak of Mount Kinabalu, and the final ending point of the climb

After the 8 KM signage, the summit on Low’s Peak is less than a Kilometre away. Your goal is simple, just keep moving slowly in steady pace. The last two hundreds of rope climbing to this highest peak will drain your last energy reserve. The sweet reward is reserved to those who persist. Conquering Mount Kinabalu is once in a lifetime experience and must be in your bucket list.

Tasting the victory: spectacular view on the summit of Mount Kinabalu. Bonus: If you reach the peak before 6am, you will be rewarded by the beautiful sunrise view on the highest mountain of Borneo.

About 50,000 climbers leaves their footsteps on Mount Kinabalu annually. Despite the struggle, none of them shows the face of regret on the top. You have only an hour to enjoy the moment of your sweet victory, because the guide will ask you to leave the summit before 8am, before the mountain covered in dense fog (poor visibility).

Left: sub-alpine vegetation on Mount Kinabalu. Right: Aki View Platform

When you hike back to your hostel in Panalaban, do slow down a bit to appreciate the unique plant and flowers during the descend. Without daylight in night climb, you didn’t realise that you were surrounded by the most valuable eco-treasures of Borneo.

Left: Old man’s beard Fruticose lichen (Usnea) on the trees. Right: Kinabalu Park is a garden rich of plant species

Lastly, don’t forget to collect your certificate (for a fee) at Kinabalu Park office as a proof of your successful climb.

Tips and Advice

  1. Pack Light. Don’t carry more than 6 Kg of weight for the climb. Those bringing huge backpacks can hire a porter (for a fee) to reduce the burden. Your porter will head straight to Panalaban in great speed and won’t be walking next to the slow you, so do not let them carry your water and raincoat.
  2. The climate is cool with an average temperature range of 15°C to 24°C (59°F to 75°F) at the Kinabalu Park Headquarters and 6°C to 10°C (42°F to 50°F) on the mountain. It can even go down to freezing point in coldest months (Nov-Dec). Climbers are recommended to wear breathable cotton clothing and comfortable pair of hiking shoes.
  3. Climbers are also reminded to be ready with torch lights, raincoats and warm clothes in case it rains and the temperature drops.
  4. Descending stresses your knee and muscle more than ascending. Try to descend slowly to avoid serious joint and muscle pain later.
  5. Trail can be slippery after rain. Wear comfortable trekking or hiking shoes with good grip (best if it’s waterproof).
  6. Stay with your group and Mountain Guide at all times. Never walk off trail.
  7. Don’t climb if you have ailments such as asthma, hypertension, diabetes, heart disease and other sickness that severely affects your fitness.
  8. Always book the tour with licensed tour agent. There have been many cases tourists cheated by unlicensed agents.
  9. Mt. Kinabalu is the Sacred Mountain (resting place of the deceased) of Sabah. Please be respectful and refrain from doing anything offensive such as taking nude photo.
  10. Follow the social media of Sabah Parks for latest update on travel restriction. Currently, only our locals can climb the mountain.
Climbing outfit: Day 1 vs Day 2. You don’t need thick clothing for climbing on day 1, but pack a warm jacket in your bag. On day 2, you need to prepare for near freezing point temperature. You must have poncho or water resistant clothing in case it rains.

Things to Bring

  • Passport / MyKad (for registration)
  • Proof of Accommodation Booking and Payment
  • Cash (most transactions are by cash)
  • Drinking Water (in Refillable 1 Litre water bottle)
  • LED Headlamp (head torch)
  • Energy Bars / Chocolate Bars
  • Light Backpack (preferably with rain cover)
  • Raincoat / Poncho (Murphy’s Law says it’ll rain if you don’t bring one)
  • Toiletries (e.g. toilet paper, soap, toothbrush, toothpaste)
  • Warm Clothing (e.g. Wind breaker, Fleece, Jacket)
  • Extra clothing and socks
  • Gloves (to keep warm and rope climbing)
  • Ear Warmer
  • Towel
  • Camera and spare Battery
  • Medication such as painkiller, headache or altitude sickness tablet
  • Plastic bags: to store rubbish and soiled clothes
  • Optional: walking pole, sunblock lotion, sunglasses, portable charger

I hope you find this guide useful. Please feel free to comment or ask any question in the Comment section below.

Photos taken in Kinabalu Park and Mount Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

7 Things People often get WRONG about Mount Kinabalu

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Mount Kinabalu (Gunung Kinabalu in Malay language) is the icon of Sabah. It’s dearly loved by the locals as a grandfather mountain and tourists as a climbing destination. However, this magnificent mountain is not being well understood. Please allow me to point out seven most common mistakes.

1. Mount Kinabalu is not Mount KK!

KK is the abbreviation of Kota Kinabalu, the capital of Sabah. Mount Kinabalu is a mountain which is about 55 Kilometres away from KK. KK city is not located on Mount Kinabalu, so what’s Mount KK? You tell me.

Credit: Comic by Kendy. Please follow his Instagram @kendylife88 for more cool artworks.

This wrong name is probably invented by people from West Malaysia. Oh please be respectful and stop calling our sacred mountain Mount KK. It makes our eyes rolled every time we hear the words Mount KK. What would you feel if I call KL as Kota Lumpur?

2. South Peak is not the highest peak of Mount Kinabalu

The pointy South Peak is the most photogenic and popular peak of Mount Kinabalu. This peak appears in our RM100 note and a lot of travel advertisements. Therefore, I don’t blame people for mistaking it as the highest peak.

Left: South Peak and its picture in RM100 Malaysian money. Right: The low profile Low’s Peak is the highest peak of Mount Kinabalu

The highest peak of Mount Kinabalu is Low’s Peak at 4,095 Metres (13,435 ft). The height of South Peak is 3,900 Metres (12,795 ft), which is not even listed in the 20 highest peaks of Mount Kinabalu.

South Peak in an airline advertisement. Probably she really wants to climb South Peak. Good luck then lol

3. Hugh Low is not the first climber reached the highest peak of Mount Kinabalu

Even though Low’s Peak (the highest peak) is named after Sir Hugh Low, who first climbed Mount Kinabalu in March 1851, he only reached the summit plateau. Anyway, it’s the first recorded ascent of Mount Kinabalu.

Left: John Whitehead is the first documented person who stood on the highest peak of Mount Kinabalu. Right: blind people led by helper to climb Mount Kinabalu. Climbing Mount Kinabalu was used to be a tough expedition. Now Mount Kinabalu is so accessible and visited by all walks of life (e.g. 82-year-old woman, intellectual disability group, 3-year-old toddler, disabled man with no leg)

John Whitehead, an English explorer, is the first documented person who climbed to the top of Mount Kinabalu in 1888. FYI, Lilian Gibbs, a woman botanist from England, was the first woman to climb Mount Kinabalu. The villagers of Kampung Kiau (at the foothill of Mount Kinabalu) believe that their ancestors may have conquered the mountain before these westerners, but it’s not documented.

4. Mount Kinabalu is not a volcano

Mount Kinabalu is a huge granite dome (pluton in geography term) that was uplifted above the surface about 7 to 8 million years ago, due to the Magma intrusion and collision from the crustal plate movements. This non-volcanic mountain was not formed by puking smoke and lava.

Climbers can see the 1,000-metre-deep misty Low’s Gully from the summit. No wonder some people thought Mount Kinabalu is a volcano.

In fact, the birth of Mount Kinabalu is a result of long, dramatic and complex geological processes in different stages, which began about 40 million years ago. You can read the interview with geologist Professor Dr. Felix Tongkul for more in-depth story.

Diagram on formation of Mount Kinabalu. Source: The Geology of Mount Kinabalu (PDF file)

5. Mount Kinabalu is not the highest mountain in South-East Asia

The 5,881-meter-tall Kagabu Razi in Myanmar is the highest mountain in Southeast Asia. Currently Mount Kinabalu is ranked 29th highest mountain in Southasia Asia. It’s definitely the highest mountain of Malaysia and Borneo Island, and the 20th most prominent mountain in the world by topographic prominence.

Sometimes even mainstream media publishes the wrong information about Mount Kinabalu

6. The official height of Mount Kinabalu is 4,095 Metres (13,435 feet)

Before a re-survey by satellite technology in 1997 that confirmed the height of Low’s Peak as 4,095 metres (13,435 ft) above sea level, all geography books said Mount Kinabalu is 4,101 m (13,455 ft) tall. After 20 years, most textbook and media have gotten the information right now. However, you still can find the outdated figure around.

It took an airline company more than 10 years to correct the outdated information of Mount Kinabalu in its flight magazine.

Mount Kinabalu is standing tall at 4,095 Metres, for NOW, because its height will change over time. Mount Kinabalu is still uplifted by earth movement so this young mountain is growing at 5mm a year. However, Mount Kinabalu can lose or gain a few centimetres after a major earthquake.

You can see Mount Kinabalu from Sandakan! I took this photo on Lankayan Island off Sandakan City.

Do you know that Mount Kinabalu was probably several hundred metres higher than today over 100,000 years ago? In the past Mount Kinabalu was an ice-capped mountain and covered with sedimentary rock on top. Then a combination of weathering and glacial action in the last 2 million years gradually eroded its top and exposed the granite.

Formation of Mount Kinabalu jagged top by weather and glacier erosion

7. Mount Kinabalu does not like tourists

Tourists pay a lot of money to climb Mount Kinabalu and think Mount Kinabalu should welcome them with open arms. Well, indigenous people of Sabah believe that Mount Kinabalu is the revered place of the dead, not a playground for tourists. In old days the villagers viewed the summit as a sacred place and climbing it would disturb the spirits and brought misfortune. After Sir Hugh Low climbed Mount Kinabalu, the villagers in the vicinity were mad because their harvest turned terrible.

Left: some locals believe the 2015 Sabah earthquake is linked to the disrespectful tourists who were stripping naked and urinating on Mount Kinabalu. Right: a warning by Sabah Parks about climbers’ behaviour. The photos below show the offering to appease the mountain in a ritual.

Even nowadays, a traditional Kadazandusun ritual (called Monolob) to appease the mountain spirits is performed every year, to ensure a safe journey for the climbers. No matter you believe in spiritual world or not, please be respectful during the climb. It saddens us whenever we hear news of tourists doing stupid things up there.

Mount Kinabalu is seen as a living sacred temple for the Kadazandusun to communicate with its divinity care-taker couple Akinabalu and Odusinudu.

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Ruhiang Hill (Bukit Perahu) and Ship Rocks

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Does Noah’s ark really exist? I don’t know, but I was told that near Tamparuli town, there are rocks that resemble a vessel stranded on a hill named Bukit Perahu (also known as Ruhiang Hill). I guess that’s how Bukit Perahu got its name, as Perahu means Boat and Bukit means Hill in Malay language.

Bukit Perahu (or Ruhiang Hill) is next to Tamparuli town (left)

Many also say the top of Bukit Perahu has one of the most spectacular views of Mt. Kinabalu (the highest mountain of Malaysia).

Majestic Mount Kinabalu and Bukit Perahu (lower left)

One day I finally managed to get up early in the morning, headed to Tamparuli, which was 30 KM away from Kota Kinabalu City, then climbed up to the peak of Bukit Perahu.

The beautiful sea of cloud will disperse after the sun comes up, so you better reach the peak as early as possible.
Hikers relax and enjoy the morning view on Bukit Perahu

What they said was true. The scenery is so exceptional that I climbed it again the following week with my drone to photograph some aerial shots.

The friends of this family want to climb Bukit Perahu after they see this awesome shot

During good weather in early morning, you would see Mt. Kinabalu like floating on sea of cloud. Someone come very early to catch the sunrise around 6am for the best view. If you go late, say after 8:30am, the sea of cloud would disperse and envelope Mt. Kinabalu.

This family photo tells you that the climb is not overly challenging.

Bukit Perahu is only 300 Metres high. The hiking distance to the top is about 800 Metres and normally takes about 35 minutes, depend on your fitness. Some sections of the trail is a little steep. Overall the climb isn’t challenging.

The total distance to the peak is about 800 Meters

The Climb

The starting point of the climb is near to the roadside in Tamparuli (later I tell you how to get there). It’s a public area and you aren’t required to pay any entrance fee. The trail is well-marked and there are many hikers around in the morning, so you won’t lose your way.

Bukit Perahu is also one of the best paragliding sites.

Looking from far away, Bukit Perahu is a cone shaped hill with gentle slope, but the route is a bit steeper than we think. The 800-Metre trail is fully paved by cement from the start to the end (peak), so no more slippery soil trail after rain.

The trail to the peak of Bukit Perahu is now fully (100%!) paved by cement now. The photo at the left was taken in year 2017.

Note: The photos that show nature trail here are the old photos, the peak can be reached by stairway now. Do expect some human traffic during weekends, as everyone uses the same trail for ascend and descend.

Roman Catholic uses the route to the peak as the Way of the Cross (or Stations of the Cross). You will see 14 crosses along the way, with photo and description about the suffering of Jesus Christ carrying a cross to his crucifixion.

The local Catholics make this trail the Station of the Cross (or Way of Sorrows). Along the trail you will see a total of 14 cross signage with picture and text depicting Jesus Christ on the day of his crucifixion.

Most of the time you walk under the shade.

Most of the time the dense trees shaded me from sunlight, and the cool morning breeze stopped me from overheat, so it’s quite a pleasant walk.

Very green surrounding around the peak

The stairway prevents climbers and hikers from walking on the slippery trail and boulders. However, someone say that the new cemented path is losing a bit of touch with nature.

The stairway makes the climb less challenging but a bit more tiring.

After moving higher up, I could see Tamparuli town and surrounding hills with lush forest, the more I ascended, the nicer the view.

Gazebo in the midway

I took a short break in a gazebo next to cross No. 10. I was halfway there.

Last 200 Meters to the peak
When you see the 14th cross and the big cross, you are only 200 Meters away from the peak

After the last cross, I reached an open area with soil trail pounded solid by thousands of footsteps of hikers.

Almost reaching the hilltop
The view on top of Bukit Perahu

On the hilltop were some relaxing hikers enjoyed the panoramic view of Tamparuli town, rolling green hills and Mt. Kinabalu.

Hikers enjoying the scenic view
The hawkers sell stuffs from early morning to 9 or 10am on the peak

Hungry? Thirsty? A few hawkers were selling drink, snacks and fruit (the prices are higher, consider the labour work to carry these things up to the hill, e.g. a tin of 100Plus sold for RM3.00).

You can buy some drink, snack, chips and fruit on the hill
You can have a bird eye view of Tamparuli from the top of the hill
The only shade you can find on hilltop.

The Boat Rocks

I tried to locate the two boat rocks that earn Bukit Perahu the name. Please note the trails to the rocks may not be well-maintained and covered by dense grass.

Looking for the boat rock

The smaller one is nearer and the entrance is at the left hand side (when you face Mt. Kinabalu).

On the way to the smaller boat rock

It’s quite an easy walk on a small trail and I saw the boat rock within 10 minutes. It really looks like the front of ship (bow).

This rock looks like a sinking ship

The bigger one is another story. The entrance is at the right. When I asked the locals for direction, they looked concern, as if it’s a bad idea. They warned me that the trail is not in good condition.

Azlan clearing the bush that blocks the trail

I just proceeded anyway and walked into the wood, just after 15 Metres a dense bush was in my way, I was stuck. Luckily, Azlan, a local from Tamparuli, came to “rescue” by using his machete to clear the trail.

On the way to the biggest boat rock

I followed Azlan to pass through the dense wood and narrow steep trail. Azlan climbs this hill regularly so he knows the place really well. In fact, he is the one who opens the trail to the big boat rock. He said he had cleared the trail in Jan but the undergrowth flourished again.

Azlan is the one who opens the trail to the huge boat rock.

After 23 minutes of painfully slow move on steep and slippery trail, Azlan stopped at a big rock and said “It’s here.” I didn’t see any boat rock. He added, “You are on top of the boat rock. You need to descend to the side to have a better look.”

Big boat rock

He is right. At one side, the boat rock looks like the hull of a cargo ship. I don’t really recommend you visit this rock due to safety. If you must go, bring insect repellant.

This boat rock is really huge. Did you see the “snake head rock”?

Then we descend to another side. From this angle, the rock really looks like a ship that has 3 layers of decks. Two ladies, Zoom and Farah were following us, I included them in the photos so you can see the scale.

Closer look of the boat rock

Azlan is a civil servant working in Tuaran. Though he is 52 years old, he remains very fit and climb Bukit Perahu up and down 5 times to train for climbathon (mountain race).

How to get there

When you reach Tamparuli town, which is about 30 minutes by car from Kota Kinabalu City, turn to Jalan Tamparuli Togop Road (see Street View map) beside the police station.

The starting point of the hike is next to the road. Note the signage that reads Puncak St. Veronica

Just follow the road for about 300 Metres, the starting point will be at at your left (see Street View map, GPS Coordinate: 6.131424, 116.273830). If you come in the morning during weekends, you would see many cars parked at the roadside.

At the starting point, there is a sign that reads “Laluan Jalan Salip ke Puncak St. Veronica” (translated as: Way of the Cross to St. Veronica Peak). There is a house there so be quiet. There is no toilet at Bukit Perahu so you better relieve yourself somewhere else before the climb.

Photos taken in Tamparuli, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo