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Taralamas River Canyon

Taralamas River Canyon, the Magic of Water

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Living in a stressful world, we need a place to wash away our worries. Scientific studies show that being near water gives us a powerful mental health boost. How about a water therapy at Taralamas River Canyon (also known as Tolungan Daralamas River Canyon), a 15-million-year-old canyon that is hidden deep inside the rainforest of Sabah? Its unique geological feature is a wow factor to visitors. Most people decide to visit Taralamas just by looking at its photos.

Taralamas River Canyon lit by the afternoon light

Taralamas River Canyon, which is formed earlier than Mount Kinabalu, is a work of water erosion. It’s a great canyon, though it’s not as big as Grand Canyon. Besides the interesting landscape, a trip to Taralamas allows you to enjoy various nature-based activities such as hiking, picnic and swimming that cover forest, river, waterfall and hill.

Standard Itinerary

Most visitors prefer a day trip at Taralamas River Canyon. The following is the standard itinerary (shortest trail). Please note you need to book the tour in advance. Walk-in tourists may not be accepted.

Walking on the village road and jungle trail in Tiang Lama Village
  • 5am: Depart from Kota Kinabalu City (KK)
  • 8am: Arrive Tiang Lama Village (in Ranau) and start hiking (3 KM)
  • 10am: Reach Taralamas River Canyon (Lunch and river canyon walk there)
  • 12pm: Going back to the Starting Point
  • 2pm: Return to KK
  • 6pm: Arrive KK

The downside of day trip is more than 7 hours of driving back and forth. You can consider spending a night in homestay of Tiang Lama (walking distance to the starting point) for a more relaxing experience.

Entering Taralamas River Canyon

Below is a useful walk-through with photos, or you can watch the video below:

Gather at Starting Point (at Tiang Lama Village)

The starting point of the hike is at the Community Hall near the end of Tiang Lama Village (or Kampung Tiang Lama) in Ranau district. Group of hikers congregate there between 7am and 9am. It’s better to start hiking in early morning, as it’s more likely to rain in the afternoon.

Starting point of the hike to Taralamas River Canyon

After you register and pay the operator, a village guide will be assigned to your group. Most guides are youngsters from the village. There is a small toilet near the hall, in case you want to relieve yourself before the 2-hour hike. A short briefing on Do & Don’t will be given before the hike begins.

At the hall are some stalls that sell food, (e.g. fried noodle, linopot packed rice, instant noodle, snacks, biscuit, pinjaram, hinompuka, traditional kuih), drink, fruits and vegetables. You can have your breakfast there and buy packed lunch from the villagers, as there is no restaurant at the canyon.

Start hiking to Taralamas River Canyon in the morning

The stalls are also around in the afternoon, so you can buy some fresh produce at a very reasonable or cheap price, before you head home. Depending on the season, you would find different fruits and vegetables such as durian, tuhau and rambutan.

Hiking to Taralamas River Canyon

Once everyone is prepared, we start hiking from the village. The morning at Tiang Lama Village is cooling and refreshing. Within minutes we come to the plantation in the mist.

Left: muddy trail, Middle: bamboo bridge, Right: trail near the local plantation

The temperature is about 25°C. You might need a jacket to keep warm in the beginning. Very soon you would feel warm after some walk among the dense shrubs and trees.

We choose the standard loop trail, which is 6 KM back and forth and the shortest hiking distance. If you want to visit the Sadoron Waterfall, it’ll be a total of 8 KM walk.

One way distance to the river canyon is about 3 Kilometres. The signage says follow your pace but don’t be slow.

Everyone start out dry and high in spirit. Just don’t expect to come out dry since you would face muddy trail, river canyon walk or rain later. Waterproof shoes such as Adidas Kampung would help a lot. Very likely you will need an extra pair of dry socks.

The trail is well-trodden. I’ve been to Taralamas twice and the muddy trail in the first 30 minutes is quite a drag, because the slippery trail on uneven ground can slow you down.

Interesting flora along the trail. Left: an ornamental plant (Alocasia cuprea), Middle: tall bamboo, Right: Begonia

After one KM, you will enter the secondary rainforest. If you are lucky, you would see flock of Rhinocerus hornbill flying over the canopy. There are some leeches but only a handful of them. Wearing anti-leech socks will keep them at bay. The deer fly is more annoying when they find you by the smell of your sweat. The presence of blood sucking bugs means the forest is rich with wildlife.

The view at the highest point of the hike. The last line of the signage says patient is a virtue.

Normally it takes about 1.5 hours to reach the river canyon 3 KM away. Overall the trail is not very challenging. Accident is rare. Only the one KM before the canyon is steep. The difficult sections have rope support. Ladies would need gloves to protect their skin while using the coarse ropes.

Anyway, you don’t need to rush. Just enjoy the view along the trail. I’ve seen Alocasia cuprea (ornmental plant), bamboo groves, Begonia, mushroom, fungus, big fern tree, and many unknown flora.

Reaching the River Canyon

After 3 KM, you will reach the river bank of Widu River. You are probably very excited, but please keep quiet. Making noise in the forest are taboos.

You can place your bag and belonging under the canvas shelter in case it rains. There is a small toilet nearby for you to change or doing your business.

Left: reaching the Taralamas River Canyon, Right: toilet next to the river

One of my favourite moment is to enjoy my linopot lunch by the river. During dry season, the river water is clear with emerald colour. I’m always tempted to collect the beautiful blue-grayish river rocks but this is forbidden (and would bring bad luck).

Some insects such as butterflies and bees attracted by our sweat. They land on our skin to harvest salt, which is a vital but rare mineral in the jungle. The bees won’t sting you unless provoked. But be careful and bring medicines (to treat anaphylactic shock) if you are allergic to bee stung.

Left: enjoy Linopot packed lunch next to the river, Right: crossing the river to enter the canyon

Butterflies are more timid and would target the fresh mud on our shoes. Entomologists will be pleased to find Borneo endemic species among them, for example, Bornean swallowtail (Graphium stratiotes) and Bornean sawtooth (Prioneris cornelia). I also see Bornean Straight Pierrot (Caleta manovus), Orange Gull (Cepora judith hespera), Grass Yellow, Green Dragontail, Mormon, and Common Cruiser at the river bank.

Left: shelter at the river side, Middle: butterflies attracted by smelly shoes, Right: Linopot packed rice

The gap of the river canyon is only 2 to 5 Metres width, and there are more than 30 visitors. Therefore, we take turn to go in, to avoid overcrowding. Usually the walk in river canyon takes about an hour.

Enter the River Canyon

Finally it’s my turn. We are required to put on a life vest and a helmet to protect us from drowning and falling rocks. The canyon is about 150 Metres long. However, in most cases, the guide would bring you up to 120 Metres. You can fully explore it only when the water is very shallow in dry days.

The beginning of the river canyon walk

I cross the river to enter the canyon at the other side. The temperature of the water is about 25°C degrees, it’s cold but probably not enough to cause hyperthermia, unless you stay for long hours. It’s bearable once my body gets used to it.

During drought season, you can walk across the river easily. It rained the night before, so the river reaches my chest level and the current is quite swift. I hold on the guiding rope to move to the entrance of the canyon, and fight another stream coming out from there.

Left: the river is deep during wet season, Right: the brightest section of Taralamas River Canyon

Though I struggle a bit with the cold and strong current, I feel no regret the moment I see the gorgeous rock walls in the canyon. Like most people say, it looks so unreal and doesn’t resemble any place in Sabah.

The rock walls in the canyon marked with layers horizontally, a characteristic of sedimentary rock. I feel like being sandwiched between two giant chocolate crepe cakes of 2 to 5 floors high. The walls are comprised of rock layers that are stacked and deposited since 60 millions years ago. After river flows on these rocks for million of years, it carves out the Taralamas River Canyon today. The wall surface is so smooth that I can see my reflection.

For a moment the river canyon looks like a romantic paradise

Part of the river is as deep as 9 feet. I float on the water and use the rope to move forward slowly. I look up and see the sky through the narrow opening, which is partially shielded by the translucent green leaves. Some big rocks in the canyon really look like petrified wood. I thought it was wood until my toes kick it.

Entrance to explore the deeper and darker canyon section

The first half of the river canyon is the best section for photo-taking because it’s relatively well-lighted and some rocks are coloured by green moss. About 40 Metres into the canyon is a wide open area with sandy bank where you can stand. I take a break there and photograph some pictures when the afternoon sun on top brightens up the canyon.

The narrow passage of Taralamas River Canyon

Then I continue to explore the canyon. The deeper side of the canyon is dark and narrow, almost like a cave tunnel, it’s a bit scary actually. Large volume of water squeezes through this narrow tunnel and pushes me with force.

I climb over a few mini waterfalls to go further inside, like a rat crawling against the running water in the pipe. Behind each waterfall is a chamber-like space with opening on top. The rain starts to flood the canyon, so our guide advises us to leave before the bad weather hit us. Exit the canyon is easy as we follow the current.

The ending section of Taralamas River Canyon. Actually you still can explore further up.

At last we hike back to the starting point and it is pouring rain on the way. None of us was dry. After some clean-up at the community hall, we return to KK. I’ve visited the canyon twice but more than happy to come back again.

Geology of Taralamas River Canyon

On social media, you may have seen tons of posts that praise the beauty of Taralamas River Canyon, but nobody tells you why it is so special. I did some homework by asking Professor Dr. Felix Tongkul, an expert in geology.

The unique rock structure of Taralamas River Canyon

According to Dr. Felix, technically Taralamas is a small river canyon. It was formed by stream erosion along a vertical fracture on the sedimentary rock sequence of the Trusmadi Formation. The sedimentary rock sequence comprising of dark shales and thin sandstones that were deposited about 60 million years ago in a deep sea area. The canyon itself was formed much later after the sedimentary rock sequence were uplifted and exposed on land about 15 million years ago. (Me: Wow, this canyon exists about 7 million years earlier than Mount Kinabalu.)

Left: smooth rockface of the canyon, Right: the bluish-gray stones on the riverside

Dr. Felix also said that there are other small canyons in Sabah too, but they are quite inaccessible. One such canyon can be found along Baliojong River in Kampung Togudon, Tandek in Kota Marudu. In terms of geological significance, Taralamas tells the geological history of Sabah during the Paleogene Period and illustrates the ongoing geomorphological process that shapes the surface of the earth. (Me: It’s also an extraordinary geotourism destination.)

Stories of Taralamas

My first impression of Taralamas is its hauntingly beautiful and mysterious vibe. Locals believe that some guardian spirits are living in this canyon. They don’t appreciate noisy people and dogs.

The big rock at the left looks like the face of a beast

Mr. David Julian, the founder of Tiang Lama Village Ecotourism, has been working on the tourism project there since 2019. He shared some stories of Taralamas with me. He thinks this canyon was probably discovered by the villagers who fished and hunted around Widu River in 1930s.

Left: misty forest of Tiang Lama village, Right: snake swimming in river canyon

The name “Taralamas” originated from the local word Dalamas, which means wall of big rocks at the river, or tall and slippery giant rocks along the river. Before Taralamas was open to tourists, it’s a fishing ground of the villagers.

People of Tiang Lama Village. Most of them are Dusun, the largest native group of Sabah.

Though the river there is teeming with fishes, the spirits can make fishermen go home empty-handed. Therefore, before the villagers catching the fishes together, their Bobolians (high priest) would perform a ritual to request for a bountiful caught permitted by the bunian (elf). As most villagers are converted to Christians or Muslims nowadays, they are no longer doing this, but they still remain respectful to the spirits in the canyon. That’s why shouting, cursing and offensive behaviours are not acceptable at Taralamas.

Playing in water and forest

Another story is a group of hunters were chasing a deer at Taralamas. A dog and deer fell into the canyon. When the hunters went down to search in the river, they were shocked to find that the dog and deer have turned into rocks and sticked on the wall of Taralamas River Canyon. The figures are still there, but faded now due to water erosion.

Fees & Booking Info

To visit Taralamas River Canyon, you can book the tour online with one of the village operators listed below. Both operators offer different packages and services. Besides entrance and guiding fees, you can order add-on such as packed meals, transportation and homestay / camping. And hardcore hikers can opt for the longer trails (8km and 12km) to visit Sadoron Waterfall and Gibai Peak.

Left: Mimpori Nature Homestay, Right: sunset view of Mount Kinabalu at Tiang Lama Village

1) Noponu Adventure Center

Website (booking): noponu.com
Facebook: @noponucamp
E-mail: davidjulian5583@gmail.com
Phone: +60 19-5803558

2) Tolungan Daralamas River Canyon

Website (booking): tntdaralamas.com
Facebook: @taralamasofficial
E-mail: tntdaralamas@gmail.com
Phone: +60 19-5826269, +60 13-2343949

Note: They would cancel the tour if the weather is bad (canyon flooded). If you plan to overnight in Tiang Lama Village, do bring some warm clothing. It’s very cold at night (about 16°C).

How to get there

Tiang Lama Village is a remote site located between Ranau and Tambunan districts. If you depart from Kota Kinabalu City, the driving distance is about 170 Kilometres (or 106 miles). The last 25 KM to the village is a gravel road, while the rest is paved road in ok condition. It takes 3.5 or more hours to reach the village by car. For day trip, you better move as early as 5am.

Left: 4-wheel-drive is the best transport to Tiang Lama, Right: van stranded in muddy road

The junction (GPS: 5.858062880692335, 116.50639939196654, see Location Map) to Tiang Lama is next to the main road between Ranau and Tambunan towns. The 25-km gravel road is muddy after rain, so getting there by 4-wheel drive is highly advisable. Or you may book the transportation with the operator, who can pick you up in Ranau or Tambunan town.

Things to Bring

The following is a list of recommended items to bring for day trip. It’s for your reference only, you may not need them all.

Left: outfit for the hike, Middle: waterproof casing for phone, Right: leech repellent
  • Drinking water & bottle
  • Backpack with rain cover
  • Dry bag
  • Raincoat / poncho
  • Cash
  • Jacket or windbreaker
  • Gloves (for using ropes)
  • Anti-leech socks
  • Waterproof casing for phone or camera
  • Power bank and charger cable
  • Swimwear / Spare clothing
  • Towel
  • Extra socks
  • Plastic bag (to store wet or soiled clothing)
  • Toilet paper
  • Tissue paper or wet wipe
  • Hiking sticks
  • Insect repellent
  • Optional: Lunch Box + spoon, energy bar / snacks, personal medicines, hat, sunglasses, sunblock lotion

Photos taken in Ranau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Rafflesia flowers of Sabah

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I have been waiting for the blooming of Rafflesia flower. I went to Tambunan Rafflesia Information Centre in August last year, but came back empty-handed (I mean no photograph). Rafflesia is the biggest flower in the world and out of 15 species, only 3 species are found in Sabah. You also can find rafflesia flower in Sumatran, Peninsular Malaysia, Java and Philippines.

Rafflesia display at Rafflesia Information Centre in Tambunan

Rafflesia arnoldii species, with 90 cm in diameter, is the biggest flower in the world. Too bad it does not live in Sabah. I am tired of hearing tour operators advertise we have the biggest flower. Just to get the fact right.

Rafflesia pricei is the second largest rafflesia species of Sabah

Tambunan’s Rafflesia Information Centre is about 80 KM away from Kota Kinabalu city. However, you will be driving on a long and winding road on the hilly area. Unless you own a powerful 4-wheel, otherwise you will need about 2 hours to reach there. There is an exhibition hall that shows some info of rafflesia species. The centre opens at 9am daily and close at 5pm every day. So don’t be late.

Information panel on different species of rafflesia flower

Only Rafflesia pricei, about 30 cm in diameter (max. 45 CM) and second largest species in Sabah, is found in the Tambunan forest reserve about 1,200 – 1,400 Meters above sea level. Daily sighting is not guaranteed and in fact consider rare. many small brownish protuberances (bud) of rafflesia can be seen on the forest ground. The seed will need 6 to 7 months to grow! Rats and other animals would feed on this juicy bud thereby adding the rate of fatality. It is difficult than bearing a human baby.

Close up of rafflesia pricei

Rafflesia is a parasite plant that hosts on the vine of Tetrastigma. Rafflesia is a single flower with no stem, leaf, or root; it is smelly like rotten meat. Rafflesia pricei is not as stinky as Rafflesia keithii. But when I get very close and sniff, I still can smell the unpleasant odor. Rafflesia relies on this smell to attract insects, such as flies, to carry on pollination.

Buds of rafflesia pricei

The photo above shows the reddish-brown cabbage-like protuberances of rafflesia. As you can see, they grow on a vine. A few months later, their flower will bloom at night, showing their fleshy petals (perigone lobes) like the picture of Rafflesia price below. The whole plant is a bit soft and looks like a plastic flower. I like its beautiful white patchy pattern. I was excited because this was my first time seeing a blooming rafflesia.

The Rafflesia Azlanii species featured on the RM10 Malaysian banknote was first discovered in the Royal Belum Forest Reserve of Perak. It looks quite similar to our Rafflesia pricei (left).

Last Saturday there were two blooming of rafflesia pricei, one was 3 days old, another one 6 days. I was very lucky because one of the blooming rafflesia is only 10 minutes walk into the forest, and there was no forest leech due to the dry season now. The worst experience will be walking in the trail for an hour and get annoyed by the little blood sucking slimy leeches throughout the trekking. The extra water, raincoat and leech sock that I carried were needless.

Follow the guide into the forest to look for the blooming rafflesia flower. If you are lucky, it’ll be a short walk.

When I was busy photographing the rafflesia, the park ranger kept on asking if I would use the photos for filming. If the photos are for commercial use and I photograph it for very long, I would have to pay RM3,000 (USD900) for such purpose. According to him, a Korean even paid RM2,500 (WOW!) to picture this magnificent flower. Rafflesia pricei is pricey to photograph then. Well, I drove here for 2 hours and paid RM50 entrance fee, there was no way I would take two shots and left. I was done with the priceless moment anyway.

The blooming of the rafflesia flower lasts about six days. Days 2 and 3 are the best viewing times. The flower would turn dark and show signs of withering from day four onward.

Just for your info, the blooming flower will last only 1 to 5 days. On 6th day, the petals will dry up, and the whole plant will wither in the next few days. By the time you read this, the pretty rafflesia flower I saw last week should have gone. Before you visit, please call the center to see if there is any blooming. When I left, two tourist buses had come in; the travel agent was quite well-informed. When there is no blooming, the whole place is like yours.

For other two species, Rafflesia keithii, with 80cm in diameter, is the biggest species in Sabah. You can see them in Poring, Crocker Range Park, Sabah Agriculture Park (Tenom), and Lohan. If I am not mistaken, Keith, the person that discovered Rafflesia keithii, is the husband of Agnes Keith, the author who named Sabah “The land below the wind.”

Models of different rafflesia flower species from other regions

Rafflesia tengku-adlinii, with 20cm in diameter, is the smallest but the rarest rafflesia that can only be found in eastern slope of Trus Madi range and Lutong Mountain (of Maliau Basin) in interior Sabah. If you are able to show me its blooming, I will not hesitate to pay you handsomely!

Rafflesia tengku-adlinii is the rarest and smallest rafflesia species of Sabah.

Due to forest clearing for logging and agriculture, sighting rafflesia depends on luck. I hope we can grow them in the nursery. Some villagers are unhappy to see Rafflesia flowers. They would remove it to prevent their land is gazetted as a protected forest reserve. I also hope Sabah Parks can create a web page that announces the blooming of rafflesia so more tourists will come to the sighting. I have no doubt the interest is strong.

Blooming Info

Sighting of blooming rafflesia needs luck. To avoid disappointment, before you visit Rafflesia Information Centre in Tambunan (see Location Map), you can check for blooming information with Sabah Forestry Department:
Facebook: sabahforestrydepartment (they will update their Facebook if there is blooming)
Tel: +60 19-5383992 (mobile), +60 88-899589 (office)
Mobile Phone: +60 11-33912760, +60 16-8878110, +60 11-26883441, +60 16-8346396, +60 11-31445985, +60 14-8694419
Email: rafflesia.info@gmail.com

VisitorAdultChildGuiding Fee
MalaysianRM5RM3RM50 for 5 people
ForeignerRM15RM7RM100 for 5 people
Please note entrance fee applies. To see rafflesia flower, you need to pay guiding fee (can be shared by 5 people). Rates as of Mar 2024

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Biggest flower in Sabah
Twin blooming of rafflesia

Photos taken in Tambunan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

How to prevent leech bite?

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Some of us might get bitten by leeches when we trek in the Malaysia forest. Leeches don’t kill but they are extremely irritating and disgusting blood suckers. I was first bitten by the forest leech when I was on the way to Poring waterfall. I still hate leech bite, so I never stop asking the experienced trekkers how to avoid leech bite. Below are some of the tips that I’ve collected so far.


Above: Tiger leech gets its name from its orange stripes


Above: a fully-fed happy brown leech

6 Ways to Prevent Leech Bite

1. Anti-Leech Socks

Anti-Leech sock is the MOST effective way of preventing leech bite. It does not contain any chemical to drive away the leech. Basically it is just an oversized sock that you wear it over your trousers as outer layer to cover the opening of your sock and jean. If a leech crawls on your leech sock, then you can spot it and get rid of it. FYI, you can buy anti-leech socks online shop such as Shopee (search by keywords “leech socks”).

Left & Middle: anti-leech socks cover the opening of your trousers. Right: Herb that can stop the bleeding caused by leech bite.

Click Here to read “How to use and where to buy anti-leech sock?” if you want to get a pair of leech socks

2. Tobacco Sock

Tobacco can kill leech in minutes. Spend a few dollars to buy some grinded tobacco leaves from the tamu or pasar (local market). Put it in a container and soak it in water (but not too much). Soak the socks in the tobacco water overnight. Leave the socks dry up next day. If you wear the sock, leech may crawl on it but it’ll halt moving after a while due to the poisoning by tobacco.

To see if tobacco can kill leech, I sprinkled some tobacco leaves on a leech and it died within a minute.

3. Dettol

Heard this from the villagers in Long Pasia. During World War II, people were wondering how the Japanese soldiers bear the leech bites in jungle warfare. Later they learn that the army applied Dettol on their hands, necks and legs. The strong smell kept the leeches away. However, if you go for wildlife watching, I won’t advise you to do this because your smell will scare away all the wildlife hundred feet away.


Above: the body size of leech can double or even triple after sucking blood. One full meal can last it for several months.

4. Lady’s Stockings

I heard from someone that there is a scientist in Danum Valley, who enters the forest frequently for research and seldom got leech bite, though he wears short pant. His secret is to wear the stockings (yes, the pantyhose used by lady).

5. Insecticide Socks

I got this tip from a friend who works for a lumbering company. Just got a pair of long soccer socks, like the one wore by ah pak (old uncles) for jogging. Wear it all the way up to your knee (also cover the opening of your jean). Then spray Baygon brand insecticide on the sock and shoe. FYI, other brands such as Ridsect does not work well. The leech dies almost instantly the moment it touches your shoe or sock.


Pic: Baygon insect (pest) spray, only some supermarkets or stores selling it.

6. Insect Repellent

The easiest way is to buy a bottle of Mosi-Guard at Guardian (also available in other local pharmacy / drugstore) and spray it on your shoes and socks. It is an insect repellent but its eucalyptus extract can prevent mosquito, as well as leech attack up to 6 hours. Insect repellent with DEET is also effective but it is very hard to find here (probably local restriction on such chemical). You may click the picture below to read the article:


Above: Mosi-Guard insect repellent also can repel leeches. You can find it in many pharmacy shops in Sabah.

I spray Mosi-Guard insect repellent on my shoes and anti-leech socks, and I almost got 0 leech bite during jungle trekking in most leech-infested area of Borneo. This repellent only makes you smell terrible to the leeches. A few stubborn leeches still want to get on your shoes but most of them won’t move on.

More Useful Facts

1. Leeches live in humid area. So you can expect more leeches near the river and during the rainy session. The forest that has more wildlife tend to have more leeches too. Leeches not only hide on the ground, you also can find them on the leaves and twigs of low shrub. Leech is the most abundant in lowland forest. I encounter leeches in altitude of 800 Meters above sea level, but the number is a lot lesser. However, in drought season, you may not see a single leech in the forest.


Above: tiger leech can attack you from any direction.

2. Some says, if you walk in group, the people at the front have less chance of getting leech bite, most victims are people at the back. Leech is sensitive to body heat and vibration. The first person passing by will “wake” them up, making them active and look for the next comers. Well, based on my experience, everyone has equal chance. In fact, first person gets very high chance of leech bite because he always has to stop to wait for the slow movers behind, giving leeches more time to crawl onto his body.

3. Leech is blind and likes to bite warmer area (due to thinner skin) such as armpit, skin between toes and butt. That’s why I hate it. It loves sensitive spots. You better wear long sleeve and tuck in your t-shirt. How does it gain access to your butt? For example, fashionable girls who like low cut jean, or you do your no.2 in the forest. Whatever, just don’t bite my balls.

4. Some may tell you that leech can leap / jump to you. It’s just an exaggeration from people who are so afraid of leeches so their imagination goes wild. Leeches only can crawl. That’s it. I have walked hundred of Kilometers of forest trail and never see any leech that can jump.

5. Someone even say if you cut a leech into half. Each half will grow into a new leech. It’s bullshit. I tried that before. The leech just turned pale and died.

6. I don’t believe the widely circulated non-sense + scary leech stories such as leeches grow in your brain. But I do believe that if you let leech got into your nose, it will live inside permanently due to free flow of food supply. My mom personally saw this happened to one of her dogs. Avoid washing your face in forest stream and don’t swim in still water.


Pic: fully-fed tiger leech sleeping on a twig

I was bitten by leech. What should I do? OH NO, Help!!! I’m going to die!

Don’t panic, don’t scream. It’s just a bug as weak as mosquito. If you are bitten by a leech, do not try to pull it away by force. This would leave permanent scar on your perfect skin. You can apply salt, tobacco, eucalyptus oil, lime fruit juice, tiger balm or medicated oil (e.g. Minyak Kapak or 驱风油) on it and it will shrivel and drop. Or just let it finishes its meal and drop off itself. The last resort is to put your finger on your skin next to its oral sucker, then gently (but firmly) slide your fingernail toward its mouth to detach it from your skin.


Above: bleeding caused by leech bites. Look scary, but from their smiles, you know it is no big deal. Just treat it as a leech therapy. You won’t bleed to dead anyway. Leech also doesn’t carry any disease and poison.

Due to anticoagulant to facilitate blood flowing, leech bite will cause your wound to bleed for hour but it will stop eventually. A guide taught me to stick a small pieces of paper on the wound to speed up the clotting and it works! Apply anti-septic cream on the wound to prevent infection and you will be fine. Keep your wound dry and clean. It will itch for a few days before fully healed, but don’t scratch it.

Types of Forest Leeches

There are 2 types of leeches in Borneo rainforest, namely, tiger leech (species: Haemadipsa picta) and brown leech (species: Haemadipsa zeylanica). The Tiger Leech can extend its body more than 6cm long, while Brown (ground) Leech is much more smaller, only about 2 cm. The bite of tiger leech is sharp & painful (like 5 mosquitoes bite you on same spot). If brown leech bites you, you may not feel anything at all, due to the anesthetic chemical in its saliva.

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How to use and where to buy an anti-leech sock?

How to use and where to buy anti-leech sock?

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The 130-million-year rainforest of Borneo is older than Amazon, but there is one small bug that scares its visitors. Like other rainforest in South East Asia, the best lowland forest of Malaysia is always infested with forest leeches, the little wiggling and slimy blood suckers, which are extremely persistent to crawl onto your naked skin for a feast.


Their bite is nothing more than a minor cut, but the anti-clotting agent in their saliva causes you to bleed profusely for hour, some find the bloody view a terrifying experience. I was always shocked by the screaming of the girls who find leech on their skin, so I decide to write this guide.


Leech sucks, so how to prevent being leeched? The MOST EFFECTIVE way to prevent leech bite is by wearing anti-leech socks or leech-proof socks (leech socks in short), as shown in the photo above. Leech socks have become a standard part of the outfit for jungle trekking in Borneo.

So you want a leech sock huh?

There are 4 types of leech socks (see following photo). In most cases, you only need to pick type no.1 or 2. Type 3 and 4 are less common and listed here FYI only:

Please see photo above for numbering.
No.1: Elastic-strap leech socks – most commonly used.
No.2: “Deluxe” leech socks – expensive but the best.
No.3: String leech socks – old fashion but still in use.
No.4: Long leech socks – same as No.1 but longer.

Though look different, all of them employ the same simple mechanism to keep leeches at bay. Basically they are just oversized socks for you wear over the trousers, to block leeches from accessing your skin from the opening of your trousers.

1. Elastic-strap Leech Socks

A pair costs RM18 to RM24 (USD5-USD6.50) and made of cotton cloth. It is the most commonly used. If you don’t want to read further, just buy this one.

Most common type of anti-leech socks

FYI, you can buy anti-leech socks at online shop such as Shopee (search by keywords “leech socks”).


To use it (it is easier to wear it in sitting position), (1) wear it like socks all the way up but at outer layer, so you can cover the opening of your pant. (2) Then pull the elastic strap to tighten and seal the opening. (3) Note the adjustment knot to control the tightness of the strap. (4) repeat the steps for another foot and put on your hiking boot or shoes.


Keep your legs comfortable, an extremely strong tight is not necessary. I know you worry that leech might sneak in through the sealed opening but that’s very unlikely. The closed loop of the strap always hooks on something in forest, so you may want to hide it behind the socks.

Below is a 1-min video to show you how to wear this anti-leech sock:

The Good: reasonable price and comfortable to wear.

The Bad: during long walk, the socks will slide down gradually. You have to pull it up regularly. It is made of cotton cloth, so it gets wet easily during rain or if the trail is muddy.

2. Deluxe Leech Socks (Water Resistant)

A pair costs RM38 (USD11.50) and made of nylon material (upper part) and linen cloth (lower part). I call it “Deluxe” because it is very expensive.

Water resistant anti-leech socks


Just wear it like other leech sock. This leech sock has internal elastic grip on top and bottom of the nylon (blue part), so you don’t need to tie any string. But I find it a bit tight though. Maybe it’s new.


Above: close-up of Deluxe Leech Socks

You may watch the 1-min video below to see Deluxe Leech Socks:

Personally, I think this is the BEST leech sock, due to the reasons below.
The Good: The materials are more water-resistant and durable. That means the socks can be cleaned (e.g. mud) and dried quickly. This is important for long period of jungle trip, because wet sock is very hard to dry up in humid forest of Borneo. The double grip points also keep the leech sock in position.

The Bad: the most expensive type. For that price, you can buy two pairs of other leech socks.

3. String Leech Socks

A pair costs RM15 (?USD4.50) and made of cotton cloth too. This design is phasing out and replaced by Elastic-strap Leech Socks.

String leech socks


The design is similar to other cotton leech socks. Since it has no elastic grip, you need to tie a noose on the cord to seal the opening, like how you tie shoe lace.

The Good: cheaper. If you know the right technique to tie the knot, the socks won’t slide down.

The Bad: The strap is not elastic so you have to tighten it stronger to hold the sock in place. However, this causes extra stress and discomfort to my skin. After long day of jungle trekking, it will leave thin lines of bruises on my skin at the strap area.

4. Long Leech Socks

A pair costs RM34 (?USD9) and made of cotton cloth.


In general, it is same as Elastic-strap Leech Socks, but it is a few inches longer and have two elastic straps.


To compare the difference, I wear both long and short leech socks, as shown in photo above. I think it’s for people who wear short pants.

The funny thing is – leech sock is for leech-phobia tourists. Our local people don’t wear leech socks. Those villagers who always go in and out forest normally wear long soccer socks, less effective (60-70% leech proof) but costs only a few dollars. In fact, most of them don’t really bother about leeches.


If you can’t find any leech socks for sale, you can use soccer socks instead, which is readily available and cheap. Make sure you get the long one with very tight weaving that leaves no tiny seam for leech to wiggle its way in. The soft-bodied leech only needs a loose hole as tiny as pencil tip to puncture your skin for blood.

Does anti-leech sock make me 100% leech-proof?

Good question! The answer is NO. But it’s 90% leech-proof and does make a big difference. To understand why, you need to know how leeches “attack”.


There are 2 types of leeches in Borneo jungle, namely, Tiger Leech and Brown Leech. Brown leeches are smaller and usually active on ground level with wet leaf litter. Occasionally you may see it crawling on grass. When it crawls on your leech socks, you can just flick it off. Brown leech can be fend off easily by leech socks.

However, for tiger leech which is bigger and active from ground to waist level, you have to be vigilant all the time. Especially in wet season, tiger leeches will hide and wait in the leaves and twigs of shrubs along the trail. If your body touches the bushes, you will pick up tiger leeches on your legs or waist. The leeches will crawl up and look for exposed skin on upper part of your body, for example, armpit, neck and belly. Leech socks won’t work in this case. So you need to keep an eye on your body (or ask your buddy to check regularly). Anyway, just avoid contacting any low shrub and you shall be safe.


When leeches crawl to your leech socks, 90% of them will go inside your shoes. Leech dislikes dry surface so the dry cloth of leech sock deters them slightly. You will find half-death leeches in your shoes. But it is different story when it rains and your leech sock is wet.

Where to buy leech socks?

You can buy them in online shops such as Shopee and Lazada (search by keywords: “leech socks”).

There are also a few places in Kota Kinabalu where you can find anti-leech socks. I only name two shops here. When you buy leech sock, check the sewing and make sure there is no hole on the socks.

Montanic Adventure Store

Montanic Adventure Store is on the second floor of Suria Sabah shopping mall (in Kota Kinabalu City).

Montanic Adventure Store in Suria Sabah Shopping Mall and the anti-leech socks (Elastic-strap Leech Socks and Long Leech Socks) they sell.

Below is their contact:
Address: 2-78, 2nd Floor Suria Sabah Shopping Mall, 88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia.
Tel: +60 88-274538
Facebook: @MontanicSuria

Some popular nature destinations such as Tabin Wildlife Reserve and Danum Valley also sell leech socks in their souvenir shops, but at higher price. Please share with us here if you know any other shop selling leech socks.

To learn more tips to combat leeches, you may Click Here to read “How to prevent leech bite?”.

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

The Tallest Tropical Tree in the World (Updated)

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Higher than the Statue of Liberty of US, the tallest tropical tree in the world is a 100.8-Metre-tall (330.7 feet) Yellow Meranti tree (species: Shorea faguetiana) in Danum Valley of Sabah, the Malaysian Borneo. It’s the second tallest tree in the world, just behind Hyperion, the 115.92-Metre-tall (380.3 Feet) Coast redwood in California’s Redwood National Park.

Climbing Menara, the tallest tropical tree in the world. Photo by Unding Jami

As the first and only recorded tropical tree exceeds 100 Metres, this tallest tropical tree is named as “Menara”, which means Tower in Malay language. Menara is also the tallest flowering plant on earth. In 2014, it’s spotted on a 33 degree angled slope by laser scanner of an airplane that surveyed the rainforest of Rhino Ridge near Danum Valley Field Centre (DVFC).

Aerial shot of Menara from a drone. The tree crown of Menara is 40 Metres wide (131 Feet). Photo by Alexander Shenkin

On 6 January 2019, to get the most accurate height reading, a team of professional tree climbers hiked up to a slope of 436-Metre above sea level to locate Menara. The team leader Unding Jami (Jamiluddin bin Jami) must climb up to the tree top and used tape measure to take the measurement from the top of the crown to the lowest part of the buttress.

Tape measure from tree top. This manual method can get the most accurate height of a tree. Photo by Unding Jami

The long straight stem posed a challenge, so Unding Jami took almost 3 hours to reach the top. The operation can be risky. There was one time Unding Jami climbed another flowering Dipterocarp and got 200 stings by a swarm of bees. Anyway, it made his day to confirm that Menara is the new record breaker of the tallest tropical tree in the world.

Height Comparison with Famous Landmarks

To get an idea of the scale of this towering tree, let’s have some fun to compare it with some well-known objects.

Height comparisons of Menara (100.8 Metres) with New York City’s Statue of Liberty (93 Metres), London’s Big Ben Clock Tower (96 Metres), Tun Mustapha Tower (122 Metres), and the Tallest Tree (115.92 Metres)

Past Record Holders of the Tallest Tropical Tree

All the past record-breakers are Yellow Meranti trees in first class forest reserve of Sabah. In fact, this is the fourth time Sabah broke its record on the tallest tropical tree in the world. Though these trees are no longer the titleholder, they are still ranked as top 20 in the list of highest trees in the world.

May 2018: 96.9M (318 Feet)

Discovered on 28 May 2018, this 96.9-Metre tree is about 9.5 Kilometre (5.9 Miles) from the entrance of Tawau Hills Park, a national park in Tawau. Tawau Hills Park is a popular place for swimming, bird-watching, hiking and hot springs.

Yellow meranti tree (species: Shorea faguetiana), is locally known as Seraya Siput Kuning. Photo by Unding Jami

Nov 2016: 93.0 Metres (305 Feet)

Known as “Lahad Datu”, this tree is located near Ulu Purut Research Station (UPRS) Camp, which is about 7 Kilometres (4.35 Miles) east of Danum Valley Field Centre (DVFC). Most media reported its height as 94.1 Metres (308.7 Feet), an estimated height by laser sensor. About 3 months later, an expedition team visited the tree. They carried out more precise measurement by tape and confirmed that the average height of Lahad Datu is 93.0 Metres.

Left: Lahad Datu tree with the people at its bottom. Right: Looking at the Lahad Datu tree from a helicopter. Photo by Robin Martin

Jun 2016: 89.5 Metres (294 Feet)

In April 2016, conservation scientists from the University of Cambridge discovered this giant tree during reconnaissance flights over east side of Maliau Basin (Sabah’s Lost World). However, this record only lasted for four months when another taller tree found in Danum Valley.

Unding Jami measuring the tree. He is too high above to hear anything from the ground, so his team only can communicate with him by phone. Photo by Stephanie Law

Jul 2006: 88.32 Metres (289.8 Feet)

This tropical tree was reported by Dr. Roman Dial from Anchorage Alaska University in National Geographic Magazine (July 2006 edition), and it held the tallest tropical tree title for nearly 10 years. It is also the most photographed by the public because it’s only a 900-Metre walk away from the entrance of Tawau Hills Park, which is managed by Sabah Parks.

This Yellow Meranti tree in Tawau Hills Park is the longest record holder (Jul 2006 – Jun 2016) of the Tallest Tropical Tree in the world. At that time people thought 90 Metres was the height limit of tropical tree until they discovered the 100.8-Metre-tall Menara in 2014.

Another beautiful tall tree in Tawau Hills Park is also worth a mention. It’s a 85.76-Metre-tall (281.4 Feet) Menggaris tree (species: Koompassia excelsa), nicknamed as Pontiankak Putih Cantik (Pretty White Pontiankak in English). It is the world’s tallest legume (its fruit is edible).

Left: 85.76-Metre-tall Menggaris tree (Pontiankak Putih Cantik). Photo by Brett Mifsud, Right: Menggaris tree (species: Koompassia excelsa) is also a Borneo tree famous for its freaking height. Note the little man next to it.

Interesting Facts about Shorea faguetiana

  • Yellow Meranti is the common name of Shorea faguetiana, a native tree species lives in Borneo, peninsular Malaysia and parts of Thailand.
  • It’s also called Seraya Siput Kuning locally (translated as yellow snail seraya) because of its snail-like exudation of dark brown or black dammar (resin) on the bole.
  • You can plant yellow meranti tree in Minecraft game.
Left: snail-like resin of Yellow Meranti tree. Photo by Dr. Arthur Chung. Right: Shorea faguetiana is the tallest tree species of Borneo. Photo by John Sugau
  • There are about 138 Shorea species with 91 of them endemic to Borneo island.
  • Shorea faguetiana is classified as endangered on the red list of International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), the world’s most comprehensive inventory of the global conservation status of biological species.
  • 80% of Shorea faguetiana population is gone in the past three generations due to logging and habitat loss.
  • Yellow Meranti tree produces five-winged fruits that spin like a helicopter when falling to the ground. This helps the seeds to travel farther away from their parent tree.
  • The wood from this tree is medium-hardwood suitable for making Plywood, crates and light furniture.
  • A huge yellow meranti tree can house a mini ecosystem consisting of over 1,000 types of insects, fungi, and plants.
Setting up the rope to climb Menara is difficult because its branches are so high above. Photo by Unding Jami

Next Tallest Tree?

Sabah rainforest is over 130 millions years old but not fully explored. For example, 70% of Maliau Basin is not studied. Therefore, I believe the next tallest tree is waiting to be found in future, most likely inside a fully-protected primary rainforest of eastern and central of Sabah, where trees can grow to ultimate height because of the fertile volcanic soil and abundant rainfall. I will keep the record updated here. Hopefully Sabah can keep singing “tinggi-tinggi pokok seraya” (means so high our yellow meranti tree) until the end, like our Mount Kinabalu in Sayang Kinabalu.

Photos of Shorea faguetiana by Dr. Arthur Chung (left), Unding Jami (middle), and John Pereira (right)

However, the height of tree is limited by mechanical, ecophysiological, and hydraulic constraints. The taller the tree, the harder for it to transport the water and nutrients from the root to the tree top (more explanation in this video). The biological limit restricts gymnosperm tree to a maximum height of 122 to 130 Metres (400 to 426.5 feet). Shorea faguetiana also needs some luck to grow super tall. With slender bole and large canopy, yellow meranti tree is “… almost like giant dandelions,” Professor Yadvinder Malhi, said in an interview. “They’re tall and thin, and they’re just trying to catch the wind.” Menara survives being snapped by strong wind because it’s sheltered by a ridge.

The Tallest Stamp of Malaysia

To feature world’s tropical tallest tree, POS Malaysia issued special new stamps for Menara on 29 Dec 2020. The miniature sheet is 180mm by 35mm (7.09 x 1.38 inches) in size, making it the largest (and tallest?) stamp of Malaysia! The 3-part folder can open up vertically and probably the longest stamp folder of Malaysia too. I love the design so much that I bought a few set.

Left: miniature sheet of Menara is the largest stamp of Malaysia. Note the words “Lahad Datu” in cancellation mark, it’s the district where Menara grows. Right: the long stamp folder for the World’s tallest tropical tree

Sabah has so many big and tall trees. No wonder some West Malaysians ask if Sabahans live on trees. I always answer Yes we do and you need an elevator to get to the top lol. For more fun facts about Borneo trees, you can read the 10 most interesting trees of Borneo.

Left: the front cover of stamp folder of World’s Tallest Tropical Tree (Pokok Tropika tertinggi di dunia). Right: Stamp sheet (10 pieces of 90-cent stamps). The picture in the stamp is the winged fruit of Shorea faguetiana

Further Reading

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Climbing Bukit Bongol (Bongol Hill) of Kota Belud

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Bukit Bongol (Bongol Hill) is such a photogenic but odd hill. It’s bald and covered by green grasses, like a mountain wearing green fleece. Its name Bongol is originated from the Malay word “Bonggol”, which means Hump, as this hill is characterized by multi-peak landscape. I have to say Bukit Bongol is one of the most beautiful and unique hills of Sabah.

It’s me (in red shirt) flying drone on the highest peak of Bukit Bongol

With a height of 527 Meters (1,730 feet), this midsize hill only needs two hours to conquer and no guide is required. When I was on its top, I wanted to sing The Sound of Music because it reminded me of that musical movie. Sorry, can’t help it. LOL

The Sound of Music Part 2 should be filmed here.

The Climb (via Mandap Trail)

There are 3 starting points to climb Bukit Bongol (More on this later). Last week I started my climb at 6:16am via Mandap-Dohubang Trail (Mandap Trail in short) in Kampung Mandap Doluoh of Kota Belud because it’s the shortest route (2.5 KM or 1.55 Mile one way) which takes about 90 minutes to go up. There are only 4 peaks (see picture below) to cover.

Route to the highest peak of Bukit Bongol via Mandap trail
Toilet at starting point
Starting point to climb Bukit Bongol (Bongol Hill)

The starting point is 88 Meter (290 feet) above sea level. Since there is only ONE toilet around, better do your business before the climb.

Trail in dense wood

The trail starts with dense forest and steep slopes in foothill. In first hour, the slopes are 40 to 60 degree angle of inclination, luckily there are rope support in most challenging sections. I followed the beaten track (or well-trodden path) created by hikers.

Rope support to climb the steep section

Though it is morning and I walk under tree shade, I still sweat profusely. I cross a few dry streams and try to catch my breath if I come to flat surface. It is a lively forest echoed with call of various birds and noisy cicada.

Fern path in high ground

On the way up you will pass-by the signage of Guung, D’Lugas, Poturidong and Kodompulan Trail after 5, 28, 45 and 60 minutes respectively. The most difficult climb is over after you come to an opening and enter the fern path around Kodompulan signage. Very soon you will reach a ridge and second peak (Minonggui Hill) is only 15 minutes away. The breeze in high ground cools off my body.

The signages of Guung, D’Lugas, Poturidong and Kodompulan Trail.
The “Boobs” hills are the peaks of Bukit Bongol

On the ridge is mostly gradual slope of 20 to 40 degree gradient. The grass almost reaches my waist. There are some trees grow sparsely on the hill. Their crowns appear to be denser at one side, as if they are all pointing at the same direction. Not sure if this is caused by wind or sunlight.

One side of every tree has denser leaves and all seem to point to one direction.
After this checkpoint you will walk on the ridge of Bukit Bongol
Reaching Minonggui Hill, but this is not the highest peak
Congratulating signage on Minonggui Hill

On the way I saw Brown Barbet (an endemic Borneo bird), 1-inch giant forest ants (species: Camponotus gigas), grumpy White-breasted Woodswallow, and a few black squirrels. The most common flower is the pink Melastoma flower (Local Name: Senduduk), its leaves and shoots can cure diarrhea and root can relieve toothache.

Pink Melastoma (Senduduk) flower and poo from unknown animal
Best view of Mount Kinabalu on Bukit Bongol (Minonggui Hill)

About 7am, I arrived second peak (Minonggui Hill) at 494M (1,620 Feet). This peak has the BEST view so I spend the most time taking photos there. FYI, the view of green Bukit Bongol with Mount Kinabalu behind is stunning, but you need to reach here latest by 9am, before Mount Kinabalu hidden in cloud.

Climber on the way to the highest peak
Climber is only 150 Meters away from the highest peak

After taking hundreds of photos, I continue to 4th peak, the highest peak of Bukit Bongol (Height: 527M or 1,730 feet), where you can see the whole Bukit Bongol and Mount Kinabalu. Too bad no summit signage to congratulate my conquer.

View of Mount Kinabalu from the highest point of Bukit Bongol

Kota Belud is the cowboy town of Sabah. I’ve never seen so many grasses in my life, enough for all the horses there to eat until they puke. Anyway, Bukit Bongol turned a bit yellowish due to drought, and a few peaks was burnt by forest fire.

Another less common name of Bukit Bongol is Bukit Nuluhan Minonggui

Overall, it’s a delightful trip. I turn back and return to starting point by 11:24am.

Comparison of 3 Starting Points

There are three places where you can start the climb. Which one is the best? In general, if you prefer the shortest route and ok with challenging trail, use Mandap-Dohubang Trail. But if you are keen to go slow with the easiest route, go for Pirasan Trail. Kinasaraban Trail is something in between these two and a popular choice too.

Three starting points to Bukit Bongol: (1) Mandap, (2) Pirasan and (3) Kinasaraban Trails

1. Mandap-Dohubang Trail (Mandap Trail)

GPS Coordinates: 6.315329, 116.398109 (see Location Map)
Mandap Trail is 2.5 KM (1.55 Mile) one way and takes about 90 minutes to reach the summit. I carried over 8Kg of photography and climb like a pregnant woman. For those who are fit and pack light, you might need only an hour. The advantage is you climb in shade half of the time.

You can check out my 6-minute walk-through video below for a virtual tour:

2. Pirasan Trail

GPS Coordinates: 6.312051, 116.431844 (see Location Map)
Pirasan Trail is the longest but easiest route. It is nearly 4 KM (2.5 Mile) one way, which takes 2.5 hours. You would walk under hot sun in return trip though. The route covers about 10 peaks. This way passes through more vegetation, so you see more variety of flowers and plant.

Starting point of Pirasan Trail to Bukit Bongol
Pirasan Trail is freaking far to walk to the summit of Bukit Bongol
Pirasan Trail is the least challenging but the longest trail
Group photo in a misty day on Bukit Bongol

Video walk-through below:

There used to be a D’Hobbit Cafe at this starting point, but now it’s no longer in business (as of Feb 2020). The gate to this cafe is closed too (so is its toilet), so you have to park your car outside.

3. Kinasaraban Trail

GPS Coordinates: 6.332075, 116.403991 (see Location Map)
(Waze’s Where to Keyword: Bangunan Pendaftaran Hikers Bukit Bonggol)
Kinasaraban Trail is about 3KM (1.86 Mile) one way, which takes about 2 hours. Though longer than Mandap Trail, it is not as steep. In short, it’s more relax than Mandap and shorter than Pirasan.

Video walk-through below (in Malay language):

Fee

All starting points ask for an entrance fee of about MYR2-3 per adult or MYR1-2 per child. Please support. But sometimes no villager is there to collect.

Safety and Things to Bring

You don’t need any guide to climb Bukit Bongol but please avoid climbing alone. Going with group of friends is more fun too. The following are some advice:

Aerial view of whole Bukit Bongol

Bee and Wasp

Many bees are present along the trail, but they only mind their own business. They only sting to defend. However, these bees love salt. Your sweat will attract them to land on your skin to sip. Do NOT squish them! The solution is to wear long sleeve and pant to cover your skin. Another problem is the hard-to-spot wasp nest in the shrub. If you are allergy to bee venom, do bring medicine that prevents anaphylactic shock.

Foothill of Bukit Bongol is dense forest

Heat

There are not many tree for shade on the hill, so you would be vulnerable to heatstroke in sunny day. Wear sunblock lotion and bring at least 1.2 Litre of drinking water. Sunhat or umbrella is a great protection too. Try to climb in early morning when it is cooling.

Panoramic view of Kota Belud plain

Trail Condition

Bukit Bongol is not a tourist-friendly destination. The trail can be very slippery after rain. Wear suitable hiking shoes such as Adidas Kampung. If you have tender skin, you need gloves for using ropes (in Mandap). Moreover, don’t step on the dry leaves when you descend, you would slip on them like banana peel.

Other useful things to bring: raincoat, hiking pole, sunglasses, phone, tissue paper, face towel.

How to get there

All starting points are accessible with sedan by paved road (and partially gravel road). You need to drive about 1.5 hours from Kota Kinabalu City to the starting points above near Kota Belud. Mobile apps such as Waze and Google Map can help you to find these places easily. Happy Climbing and Stay Safe!

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

River and Forest Bathing at Kun-Kun River

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To live happily, we need food for our body, love for our soul, and money for our security. However, one ingredient is always not listed in our source of happiness, though it’s a desire rooted in human genes for 7 million years. In 1984, Edward O. Wilson coined the term Biophilia, which suggests that humans possess an innate tendency to seek connections with nature and other life forms (not Wifi and phone!). Therefore, living without “Vitamin N(ature)” is unhealthy to our mind and body. That may explain why we feel happy after an outdoor activity in greenery. The worrying trend is the increasing “Nature deprivation” when 68% of the world population projected to live in urban areas by 2050.

My travel buddies driven by Biophilia

Camping at Kun-Kun Campsite

Now I know Biophilia makes me wanting to own a villa next to a river with beautiful scenery. I can’t afford to buy one, but Sabah has plenty of natural attractions open to public. Let’s check out Kun-Kun River, which scores high as the location of my dream villa.

A study conducted by psychologists found that creative problem solving can be drastically improved by both disconnecting from technology and reconnecting with nature.

Just kidding. Kun-Kun River (Sungai Kun-Kun) is situated deep inside of Deramakot Forest (in Sandakan, Sabah, Malaysia) and has no electricity supply. I travelled there with group of friends by 4-wheel drive (and chased by an elephant) and camped at the river side for a 100% nature experience.

?Nothing makes you feel more childlike than being outdoors.? – Dr. Pamela Peeke, author of Fit to Live.

The jade-color river is so clean and pristine. Even though Deramakot Forest is a logged forest, they practice Reduced Impact Logging, which minimize the negative impact to the environment. For example, they only harvest the forest partially, give logged forest many years to regenerate and have reforestation projects in place.

Biophilia makes Sabahans “itchy” if we are away from nature for too long.

Otherwise, logging will pollute the river and the water turns murky, because the land loses its natural green carpet to filter soil and debris from washing into the river. After some time, the river will become shallower and flood would happen after heavy rain.

Spending more time in nature can greatly benefit our psychological and physical well-being.

The amenities there are very basic. All we got is a camping grassland next to the river, with fire pit, toilet and benches. As this is a protected forest, the nearest village is over 30 Kilometres away, so secluded that some elephants left their dungs here.

Parking our 4-Wheel drive at Kun-Kun

The day was really warm and the crystal clear water is so inviting. In no time everyone went swimming and frolicking like kids.

Natural Jacuzzi in Kun-Kun River

On another end of the camp is a shallow rapid, where we could sit in the water and enjoy the natural Jacuzzi.

A funny flat rock that looks like a big biscuit. Found near the river.

After dinner, without Internet, everyone slept early under the stars and got fully recharged over the night. Disconnect with technology allows us to reconnect with nature to find inner peace and energy.

Everyone seems to sleep well
Sleeping next to Kun-Kun River

When we were packing to leave in next morning, we did a silly thing out of curiosity. We burnt some elephant dungs to see if it can work as a fuel like cow dung, and it does. One of our guys was freak out and almost screamed out hey dude what the heck are you doing. Locals believe this would attract elephant. The elusive Bornean pygmy elephant is not famous to be friendly. Anyway, no elephant showed up.

Elephant dung burns quite well in fire

When I’m back to civilization with 4G, my phone kept vibrating and tons of messages came in. Looking at the “999+ Unread” WhatsApp messages, guess what, I ignored them all, except a few from someone close. Our world is just full of meaningless words and it’s safe to disregard most of them.

Misty morning of Kun-Kun River

To enter Deramakot, you must apply the permit for both passengers and vehicle from Sabah Forestry Department in advance, no walk-in allowed. Or you can get travel agent to arrange the trip for you (permits, transportation, camp, meals).

Burning all the rubbish before we leave

Forest Bathing, or Shinrin-yoku

You may wonder why our DNA programs us to connect to nature. Dr Qing Li, a Japanese Forest Medicine expert and author of the book The Art and Science of Forest Bathing, has the answer. Japanese has been practicing an activity called forest bathing, or shinrin-yoku. Shinrin in Japanese means “forest”, and yoku means “bath”. Forest Bathing can lower our blood pressure, strengthen our immune system, prevent cancer and depression.

Forest Bathing unlocks the healing power of the forest.

Then how to do forest bathing? Bury ourselves under the leaves and wood, or take a shower in the jungle? No. It’s not even an exercise. It is simply being in nature, use our five senses (i.e. sight, hearing, taste, smell and touch) to feel and connect with the nature.

Kun-Kun is an ideal place for forest bathing

Just spend 30 to 40 minutes to explore around forest or nature park casually, aimlessly and slowly. Open all your senses. Look, listen, sniff, touch, and taste the surrounding. Relax your minds and let nature enter through your ears, eyes, nose, mouth, hands and feet, for example, listen to cicada singing, look at flowing water, smell the flowers, lay down to breathe in fresh air, dip your toes in a stream, looking at the swaying trees.

Forest Bathing can reduce the stress hormone cortisol and increase your immune defense system.

Do inhale more fresh air of forest, which contains Phytoncide, an aromatic compounds emitted by plants & trees that can boost your natural killer immune cells to reduce cancer risk.

Phytoncides released by plant can reduce cancer risk

To make the experience more powerful, you can do more things that connect to your happy memory or childhood. For me, it’s listening to rustling leaves, because this was what I liked to do outdoor when I was a kid.

Enjoy the moment without having our eyes glued to the phone

In Japan, they even has the certification program to register a “Forest Therapy Base” and over 62 sites have been registered across Japan. Since over half of Sabah is forest, a qualified Forest Therapy Base is probably just a stone’s throw away from your home.

Photos taken in Deramakot, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge in Borneo Jungle

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Do you fancy a holiday in Borneo rainforest? The top choice is to stay in Danum Valley of Sabah, which is located inside a 130-million-year-old virgin rainforest. The world famous Borneo Rainforest Lodge is a high-end resort in Danum Valley, luxurious accommodation but comes with 5-star price. Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge nearby offers the similar nature experience at a budget price and is considered as the second best choice.

About Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge (KDRL)

Built in 2014, Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge is a jungle lodge located in the buffer zone (edge) of the Danum Valley Conservation Area and part of 242,000-ha Ulu Segama Malua Forest Reserve (classified as Fully Protected Forest).

The accommodation of Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge

KDRL offers basic but comfortable chalet style accommodation and has 10 standard rooms (fan) and 10 deluxe rooms (air-conditioning) for tourists. 24-hour electricity is available in the lodge.

Dining hall of Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge

Kawag means cursed place. Locals believe that the forest there is resided by Bunian people, the elf-like supernatural beings usually live in remote forest or mountain. People who went there would have weird dream or gone missing. Don’t worry. Nowadays Kawag is a tourist-friendly destination.

Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge is located in the buffer zone of the Danum Valley

The rooms of Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge

One of Kawag’s highlight is good chance of seeing the highly endangered Bornean pygmy elephants. I saw a herd of them at the roadside while I was on the way to KDRL. When our van approached, the adult elephants formed a defensive circle with the calf in centre. Too bad I didn’t see any orangutan, which said to be abundant in Malua forest.

A group of elephants near Kawag. Note there is one with satellite collar for tracking of migration

During my stay I saw a wild bearded boar named Rudy foraged around the lodge, and a Malay civet hunted insects attracted by the light. Everything there reminds visitors that they are in the wild.

Meal served at restaurant of Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge

Nature-Based Activities

Though this lodge is surrounded by secondary forest, the forest is regenerated well and thick enough to house rich variety of flora and fauna. Kawag rainforest is characterised by younger trees and denser undergrowth but have almost everything a typical primary rainforest offers.

Crazy people lol. Photo says it all.

Therefore, you can have fun with many nature adventures such as jungle trekking, night safari, bird watching and river tubing, to fully experience the jungle. I really enjoyed my 3 days 2 night stay with KDRL. Thanks to their in-house guides, Mr. Donny and Ms Hana, for sharing the interesting stories of every animal and plant in Kawag.

1. Exploring Jungle

Birds and wildlife are thriving in Kawag. In day one, after lunch at the lodge, we went for a short guided walk at 3pm on the Kawag trail. We looked at the biggest tree in Kawag, which is a 80 to 100 years old Seraya tree (species: Shorea johorensis), a popular timber.

What we saw in hiking: Lantern bug, pygmy squirrel, Serpent Eagle and 3-color tree

Then we found a 3-in-1 trees, i.e. Kayu Malam, Seraya and Jati trees grow like they are hugging one another. The guide showed us a Bayur tree that produces salty sap, which was once used by villagers for cooking during the World War II, salt was scarce that period because Japanese seized from them. Sometimes deer chews the bark for salt supplement (a behavior called Salt Lick).

Locally known as Belian (means Diamond in local language), Borneo ironwood is one of the hardest and most valuable timbers. There is one that stands over 120 years in Kawag.

Some would be excited to see these, while other probably don’t.

Iconic Borneo wildlife such as gibbon, elephants, banteng (wild cattle), orangutan, deer and leopard cat have been sighted on the Kawag trail.

Herd of elephants in Danum Valley

During my two hiking, I spotted Trogon bird, Black & Yellow Broadbill, pygmy squirrel, giant orchid, Goshen Hawk, Barbler, and long tailed macaques. We also heard Great Argus not far away.

My friend in front bumped into an albino mouse deer (Kancil) before it ran away. Too bad I missed it. I was told that a limestone cave next to the trail has white bat. I didn’t see it but found some white tractor millipedes. This added more sense of mystery to this forest.

After dinner, we climbed up to the back of a pick-up truck for a night safari tour. The car drove slowly along the road. The guide used spotlight to scan the forest and bushes at roadside for nocturnal animals. It’s a very relaxing activity, we enjoyed the breeze and amazed by blue and green light fireflies pass-by occasionally.

Malay Civet spotted in night safari

Our guide did the hardwork of searching and found us sleeping Prinia, Ashy Tailor bird, flying Colugo, slow loris, etc. The jackpot is western tarsier, an odd looking small primate which has eyes bigger than its brain, and can turn its head almost 360 degrees. No wonder locals call it Ghost Monkey.

I saw Western Tarsier in my second visit to Kawag

The next morning, we walked to the higher ground to see sunrise shined over the misty forest. The trail condition of Kawag is ok overall, but a bit slippery after rain. And always watch out for leeches and fire ants.

Climb up to a hill to see the misty forest during sunrise

2. Bird Watching

In the morning you can walk to a 15-Meter-high observatory tower near the lodge. From the top, I saw Bornean Forktail, Serpeant Eagle and leaf bird, and heard loud morning call of Gibbon.

The 50-feet observatory tower in Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge

Based on a Bird Survey 2015 in Kawag Forest Scientific Expedition, over 100 species of birds can be found here. Just to list some cool ones, Great Argus, Scarlet-rumped trogon, fish owl, babbler, White-Crowned Shama, green leaf bird, black and red broadbill, sunbird, bulbul, crested hawk, oriental darter, oriole, and hornbill. 5 species of Pitta, the most colorful birds of Borneo, can be spotted in Kawag.

This observatory tower is a good spot for bird watching

Jason, my professional bird guide friend found Raptors, Hornbills, migratory Dark-sided Flycatcher, and Large Frogmouth in Kawag. You may check out his birdwatching blog.

Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge in the morning

If you are interested in bugs too, you would be happy to see Mantidfly, Hornet / wasp like praying mantis, strange looking goat moth, Rajah Brooke’s birdwing butterfly, endemic Borneo damselfly, and lantern bug. (Thanks Dr Arthur for the info)

3. Ali Baba Waterfall

Borneo forest is a warm and humid place, so a bath at their Ali Baba Waterfall is very welcomed. The 2.4-Kilometre walk to this waterfall takes about 1.5 hours.

Jungle trekking to the Ali Baba Waterfall

Fresh elephant dungs in the forest

We saw some fresh elephant dung along the trail. The trail was quite flat so it didn’t take much effort to reach Ali Baba Waterfall.

The gazebo next to Ali Baba Waterfall

The water of Ali Baba Waterfall is from the unpolluted rainforest

The tea color of Ali Baba Waterfall is from the tannin of rainforest plant

It’s dry season so this waterfall pond wasn’t deep for a swim but good enough for a dip. Do you know gold can be found in river of Danum Valley? I tried to see through the clear water hoping to find a gold nugget or two. The water appears golden color because of natural tannin from the plant rot in water.

Playing Tarzan lol

With me was a friendly European couple. The guy stood in the water and started giggling hysterically. Thinking that he found gold, I walked closer and found that he was actually excited with the small fishes nibbling his feet like giving a fish massage.

Something cute nibbling the feet of tourist

Fish massage in the pond of Ali Baba Waterfall

Different fish species in the water of Ali Baba Waterfall

We climbed up the cascading waterfall and saw two more waterfall ponds. One of them is 4 Meters deep. The handsome man is keen to be my model to play Tarzan in my photos. Thank you friend.

The waterfall pond of Ali Baba Waterfall

The waterfall pond of Ali Baba Waterfall is a bit deep. Note the safety rope in the water.

Tourist enjoys running stream of Ali Baba Waterfall

You can swim in the waterfall pond

How to get there

KDRL is located in Lahad Datu district, east coast of Sabah, Malaysia. No walk-in tourist to the lodge allowed. Without a permit for you and your vehicle, you will be blocked from entering this protected forest. You must book the accommodation with the operator Borneo Refugia in advance. Below is contact information and more details for you to find out more:

Tel: +60 88-267637 (Kota Kinabalu office), +60 89-862451 (Lahad Datu)
E-mail: info@borneorefugia.com, ann.neogia@gmail.com
Facebook: Kawagdanumrainforest
Website: borneorefugia.com
GPS Coordinates: 5.049416, 117.972651 (see Location Map)

Entrance to Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge (KDRL)

A 3-day-2-night full board tour package costs around MYR2,000 per person (about USD480), which includes accommodation, return transfer (between Lahad Datu Airport and KDRL), meals, guiding service, and permit. Check their Facebook before booking, sometimes they have deep discount promotion.

Long boardwalk to Kawag Danum Rainforest Lodge (KDRL). Sometimes elephants walk under it.

They will pick you up at Lahad Datu airport, and drive 1 hour 45 minutes on 52-Kilometre gravel road to the lodge. You need to get your own flight ticket (from Kota Kinabalu to Lahad Datu) via MASwings airlines, which is available every day.

Things to Bring

Clothing, towel, toiletries, swimwear, anti-leech socks, raincoat / poncho, insect repellent, hiking shoes, flashlight, sandal / slipper, backpack, camera, phone and power bank.

Photos taken in Lahad Datu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo