Tag Archives: Papar

Nostalgia in Membakut: Exploring Sabah’s Colonial Township and Railroad Heritage

Isn’t the feeling of nostalgia wonderful? Whether it’s listening to oldies songs, donning vintage fashion, or gazing at black-and-white photographs, it’s like taking a journey back in time—a journey filled with fond memories and reflections on history.

The train still passes by Membakut town every day, just like it did a century ago. However, Membakut has since transformed into a quiet rustic town, especially since the highway became the preferred means of transportation.

Amidst the rising tide of featureless cement buildings in Sabah, one can’t help but appreciate the nostalgic charm of the pre-World War II and post-war wooden shophouses in Membakut town. These colonial relics, meticulously preserved on the West Coast, stand as enduring testaments to Sabah’s past. Constructed during the British colonial era, these shophouses line up parallel to the railway, once vital arteries for transporting agricultural goods along the west coast route to the port of Jesselton, now known as Kota Kinabalu City (KK in short).

A pre-WWII shophouse. The township of Membakut was blooming during the 1920s-late 1930s due to the railway and agriculture.

Pre-War Shophouses

Dating back to the 1930s North Borneo era, two wooden shophouses in Membakut serve as captivating relics of the past, offering a window into the bustling railway station and vibrant town life of yesteryears. Positioned adjacent to these pre-war structures stands a post-war shophouse, constructed in the early 1950s, along with several other century-old buildings, all clustered within a mere 200-metre radius.

Two Pre-WWII shophouses and weekly tamu market at Membakut old township

Membakut, situated along the 134-kilometre railway line, was a vital stop on the North Borneo railway (now Sabah State Railway) during its peak. The ornate bargeboards adorning Membakut’s wooden shophouses bear testimony to the town’s erstwhile prosperity. These architectural details, meticulously crafted, reflect a bygone era when the railway was at the heart of the township’s economy. Remarkably, the railway still operates today as Borneo’s sole rail network.

Membakut old township’s main buildings consist of pre-WWII shop rows with decorative bargeboards

Century-old wooden houses, such as those in Membakut, are characterized by intricate hand-crafted embellishments, including decorative trim, carved woodwork, and ornate moldings. The original facade of the pre-WWII Membakut shophouses boasts louvered casement windows, complemented by half-doors at the shoplot’s center. Transom openings above each window ensure ample natural light floods the upper floors, even when the louvred panels are closed.

Dilapidated balconies decorated with louvered panels and small British Victorian brackets.

Turning to the side elevation of the pre-WWII Membakut shophouses reveals extended upper floors, complete with a main verandah at the front and a secondary one at the rear. This dual-purpose structure—part shop on the ground level, part residence above—epitomizes the essence of a shophouse.

Louvered casement windows of the Pre-WWII shophouse. Transom openings above each window allow more sunlight to enter.

While concrete etchings suggest the construction year of 1932, there is ambiguity surrounding whether this date denotes the building’s inception or merely an upgrade to the pavement. Consequently, the true age of these pre-WWII shophouses may exceed the indicated date significantly.

Don’t forget to look at the floor. Etchings of old Chinese coins (a symbol of wealth) on the concrete pavement slabs of Pre-war shophouses in Membakut

The Interior

After exploring the old buildings and tamu markets, my friends and I grabbed breakfast at Kedai Kopi Chuan Huat, a Chinese coffee shop in one of the pre-war buildings. The Teo family, who run the place, noticed our interest in the architecture and kindly gave us a quick tour of their shophouse.

Kedai Kopi Chuan Huat (泉发茶室) is one of the few shops that remain open in the old shophouses of Membakut.

Traditional Sabah shophouses from the British colonial era typically have two levels. The ground floor serves as the shop, while the kitchen, airwell, and toilet are at the back. Floods were common back then, hence the lower level’s concrete floor.

Each unit of Membakut shophouse usually comprises a shop area, airwell and kitchen on the ground floor.

We climbed a covered staircase to the living quarters upstairs. Because of its age, the fire department advises against living here. So, most people have moved out, and their shops are closed. A few still run businesses downstairs, but no one lives above anymore.

Left: staircase to the upper floor. Right: the wooden structures of upper floor.

Walking upstairs felt like stepping into the past. I felt a sense of déjà vu, recalling childhood memories spent in similar buildings where my great-grandparents lived.

The upper floor of a shophouse unit can accommodate 3 bedrooms, a living space and an internal airwell. Room placement varies from one shophouse to another.

The creaky floorboards whispered tales of the past as we explored rooms filled with vintage furnishings and memorabilia. In a world of sleek modernity, there’s something charming about embracing the old-fashioned.

The rooms in the upper floor of a pre-WWII shophouse in Membakut. The guy in the middle is a member of the Teo family.

For today’s generation used to modern construction materials like cement and glass, these old timber buildings offer a glimpse into the past—a reminder of past craftsmanship and architectural ingenuity.

View into the internal airwell, showing the walk way to the open kitchen area, water storage tank, washing and drying areas.

As we wandered through the upper floor, glimpses into the internal airwell and kitchen area gave us a peek into the lives of past residents. The layout encouraged interaction between floors, with voices echoing throughout the house.

The Importance of Old Buildings

Destinations like France, Thailand, and India draw throngs of tourists thanks to their rich cultural and historical heritage. Borneo is a “brand” renowned for its natural beauty and adventurous tales of European explorers. Yet, without historical relics, Sabah risks losing its distinctive Bornean identity.

One of the pre-war shophouses in Membakut old township. It’s not in good shape.

The colonial buildings in Membakut, adorned with lattice-framed arches and bargeboards, serve as potential models for architectural restoration. These structures, bearing the “North Borneo” timestamp, hold immense historical and tourism value that warrants preservation.

Outside and inside view of the old louvered casement windows. Rounded metal bars are an added security feature for the window frame.

In West Coast of Sabah, landmarks from the British era have largely vanished, leaving only a handful of colonial buildings standing—now in a state of ‘critically endangered.’ While we can build new hotels, shopping malls, and high-rises, we can’t build an old building.

Unfortunately, existing old buildings face threats from fire and termites. Without proper preservation efforts and modern firefighting systems, they stand vulnerable and wait helplessly for a final blow. A post-war shophouse in Membakut succumbed to flames in 2011, while a colonial-era building dating back to the 1900s in Kimanis was reduced to rubble by tropical storm “Kompasu” a decade later.

Other old buildings nearby the Pre-war shophouses of Membakut town

On the opposite side of the train tracks lie a row of post-war shophouses. Adjacent to these stands Pei Yin Primary School, another colonial gem. Facing the school sits a small abandoned house known as the ‘Blue House.’

Post-War Shophouse

Situated on the far side of the railway tracks, the post-WWII shophouse, built in the early 1950s, once formed part of a twin row. Tragically, a fire destroyed one of these shophouses in 2011. The loss of a priceless heritage can’t be measured by monetary value.

This post-WWII shophouse built in the early 1950s is situated on the opposite side of the pre-WWII shophouses in Membakut.

Despite being two decades younger than its pre-war counterparts, this shophouse embodies the distinctive characteristics of North Borneo colonial architecture. Vintage signboards and timber folding doors adorn the shoplots, providing picturesque backdrops for nostalgic photographs.

An old shop in the post-war shophouse of Membakut town

Amidst our exploration, the friendly locals observed our wanderings with smiles, eager to share tales and stories into Membakut’s rich history. From their faces, I can see that they are really proud of their heritage buildings.

The kitchen area behind the shop of a post-war shophouse in Membakut

Etching on the concrete pavement slabs of post-war shophouse with the annotations ’28-11-1953′ and ‘11.1953 完竣’. 完竣 is a Chinese word that means completed.

We stumbled upon several concrete pavement slabs adorned with etchings of Chinese coins—a symbol of good fortune and prosperity. Two of these slabs bore the annotation ‘1953,’ a testament to the enduring legacy of the Membakut post-war shophouse since its establishment.

Concrete pavement slab in front of one of the Membakut’s post-war shophouse decorated with etchings of Chinese coins, a symbol of good luck and prosperity.

Pei Yin Primary School (培英小学)

The striking red and white façade of Pei Yin Primary School bears distinctive features of colonial architecture. Notably, the intricate stone posts adorning the building’s design mirror those found on the ruins of the Old Welfare Building—a popular site for street art in Kota Kinabalu City today.

Pei Yin Primary School believed to have been built between the 1910s – 1930s, so it can be over 100 years old. Taking a moment to admire its architectural details, I marveled at the bargeboard motifs gracing the roof and the uniquely designed ‘cloud arched’ lattice frame of its front facade. It was a school day, the sounds of students reading aloud and playing echoed from within the classrooms.

The uniquely-designed ‘cloud arched’ lattice frame of the Pei Yin Primary School’s front facade is a distinctive feature of this colonial building.

The Blue House

Directly opposite Pei Yin Primary School stands an abandoned pre-WWII residence affectionately known as ‘the Blue House.’ Likely a colonial dwelling, this building likely served as living quarters for past teachers.

This abandoned pre-WWII Blue House is probably the former home of a teacher

The door was locked, so we stood outside admiring the weathered textures of the arched lattice frame, the intricate bargeboard patterns adorning the lower roof overhangs, and the ornamental pendant details of the arch frame.

Devoid of any historical identity and relics, Sabah would become a ‘faceless’ state.

The History of Membakut Town

The development of infrastructure in Membakut township owes much to the bustling business activities of the Chinese community, who settled in the area during the early 1900s to 1920s. Throughout the 1920s to the late 1930s, Membakut rose to prominence, boasting a diverse population that included Bruneians, Chinese, Kadazans, Dusuns, Paitans, Javanese, Bisayas, and others. This vibrant mix of ethnicities engaged in various agricultural pursuits such as rice paddy cultivation, rubber tapping, and fishing, with their produce being traded via the North Borneo railway to neighbouring settlements.

The people of Membakut: Dusun Tangaa’ (left) and Orang Brunei (right) from Membakut

Datuk Teo Chin Ping, affectionately known as ‘Datuk Akong’ among locals, shares memories of Membakut from around 70 years ago. At that time, the township was home to approximately 300 to 400 households. The Hakka predominantly worked as farmers, cultivating rubber and citrus fruits, while the Hokkien managed grocery stores, and the Hainanese operated restaurants. Meanwhile, indigenous people were involved in paddy, tapioca, and sago cultivation, as well as fishing. Intermarriages between Chinese and native communities were common, and all races lived together like one big family.

The Origin of the Name “Membakut”

Membakut derives its name from the local Bruneian dialect, where “Bakut” translates to “Fort,” so the term “Membakut” literally means “to make a fort.” Carmelita, a resident of Kg Limpayau, recounts various versions of how the name “Membakut” originated. According to her mother, Rupinah Mikil, early settlers from Brunei referred to the place as “Buah Bakut”.

Tamu market of Membakut is held on every Wednesday (old township) and Sunday (new township). During fruiting season, the Tamu is flooded with all kinds of fruits from Durian, Rambutan, Bambangan, Tarap to jackfruits.

Another version suggests that the name stems from the word “Mamadakut,” derived from the Kadazan term for “the process of gathering Sago from its trunk.” Membakut was once abundant with Sago plants, making sago gathering a prevalent activity. It’s likely that the similarity in sound between “Mamadakut” and “Membakut” led to the adoption of the latter as the name for the area.

Stories of Membakut

This article might be getting a bit lengthy, but if you’ve made it this far, I’m guessing you’re quite the history enthusiast. So, here are two interesting stories about Membakut for your enjoyment.

1) Borneo Railway, Take Me Home

Datuk Teo Chin Ping from Membakut shared a story about the railway during an interview with See Hua Newspaper. During World War II, when Borneo was occupied by the Japanese, Datuk Teo was working as forced labor for Japanese forces to build and maintain the airport in Tanjung Aru. One fateful day, Teo and his friend overheard news that the Japanese were going to execute someone. Driven by curiosity, they walked from the airport to Petagas on foot. Around noon, they climbed a tree and witnessed the brutal killing by the Japanese from a distance (probably the event at Petagas War Memorial).

The colonial buildings of West Coast are focused along the train stops, with rows of shophouses on both sides.

They were completely shocked and worried that they would be the next victims, so they decided to run away from the Japanese. However, they were young boys who didn’t know the way home and had no adults to help them. Then they came up with a plan. Since they had been sent to Tanjung Aru by train, they reasoned that they could reach home by following the railway track in the opposite direction. One day, they left the work site after 5 pm and followed the railroad. For your information, the distance between Tanjung Aru and Membakut is about 70 kilometers, so it’s a long walk.

Teo and his friend followed the railway track to go home. (AI photo)

They continued walking along the railway. When they reached the Pengalat tunnel, it was pitch dark inside. Worried about snakes, they beat around with tree branches and burnt the fat of a wild boar as a torch. Finally, they arrived at Kampung Brunei of Membakut at dawn. They jumped into the river and took a shortcut to get home. Datuk Teo was afraid that the Japanese would come after him, so he hid at home until the war was over. Fortunately, he remained safe and witnessed Borneo being liberated by the Allies.

Aerial view of the Pei Yin School (left) and Post-War shophouse (right) in Membakut

2) My Love is a ‘Member Cute’

Here’s another “romantic” story from Mr. Rimo Pirin, a singer from Kg Dungau. During the war, there was this British soldier who fell in love with a local girl. They didn’t have much time together because he was always on the move and didn’t stay long in one place. After the war, he came back to Borneo, hoping to find her. But here’s the kicker: he couldn’t remember her name, just that she was adorable. So, he kept calling her “a member cute.” The villagers were puzzled with such name but helped him anyway. The story is pretty amusing, so they’ve been talking about it for fun ever since.

How to Get There

Membakut is located in the Papar District, approximately 80 kilometers south of Kota Kinabalu, the capital city of Sabah. The town’s old shophouses and buildings are situated in the old township (Pekan Lama. See Location Map) and can be easily reached via asphalt roads.

The train station of Membakut town. Some locals still use this railway for their daily commute.

Alternatively, you can opt for a scenic train journey from Tanjung Aru train station to Membakut. Along the railway route, you’ll enjoy picturesque countryside views and pass by various historical landmarks, including the colonial buildings of Kinarut and the Papar iron bridge.

References

Book: Sokial, Richard Nelson. Colonial Townships in Sabah: West Coast. Sabah, Malaysia: Homeland Publisher Sdn Bhd, 2012.
(I highly recommend this book if you want in-depth information of colonial building in west coast of Sabah)
Newspaper Article (Daily Express): Binisol, Lorena. “Membakut history and popular Tamu.” Daily Express, September 8, 2019. https://www.dailyexpress.com.my/read/3168/membakut-history-and-popular-tamu/.
Newspaper Article (See Hua Daily News): “王麻骨闻人张正平述说故乡事迹.” See Hua Daily News (诗华日报), January 14, 2020. https://news.seehua.com/post/515791.

Photos taken in Membakut, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

North Borneo Train Tour down memory lane

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From 1888 to 1963, Sabah (then North Borneo) was colonized by British empire, as part of their economy plan to build a kingdom that never sleeps. The construction of railway in 1896 is a major development that transformed the wild West Coast of Sabah into a belt of prosperity.

Left: The first train in North Borneo (photo taken on 3 Feb 1898). Right: the train tickets of old days (displayed in the Train Gallery of Sabah Museum)

Having more productive lands means earning more wealth, the 134-kilometre Borneo railway helps to open up more lands and forms the lifeline of west coast. Cargo after cargo of tobacco, rubber, paddy, coffee, timber and other agricultural products were transported from the fertile inland to the harbour of Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu City or KK). Colonial townships such as Kinarut, Papar, Beaufort and Tenom also sprouted up along the railway.

Stamps of “Trains in Sabah”, issued on 28 Dec 2015 by POS Malaysia. The yellow steel bridge in background is a historical structure in Papar town.

The success of the tobacco industry between 1880 and early 1890 created a high demand for land, so was the rubber bloom in early 1900s. Thousands of China immigrants were imported into North Borneo in early 19th century to construct the railway and to farm on the new lands. North Borneo Railway has been operating until today and still remain as the only railway on Borneo island.

Left: the train service would be extended to Tawau in east coast in initial plan. Right: Food sellers (usually selling boiled eggs and dumpling) at the Papar train station (photo taken by G.C. Woolley on 27 May 1910)

Though it’s renamed to Sabah State Railway after the formation of Malaysia, locals always view it as a legacy of British. Our great grandparent generations always have a lot of stories to share about the locomotive steamer, which holds a special place in their hearts. Indeed, North Borneo railway is a memory lane with history that involves Bruneians, British, Japanese, Australians and forebears of Sabah Chinese.

The hundred-year-old North Borneo railway is a memory lane full of stories

“It is a well known fact that wherever the British went, they planted flowering trees as well as built railway lines.” — Chung Mui Kong, “Little Snapshots”

North Borneo Train Tour

Though Sabah’s railway towns are quiet and peaceful places nowadays, they were flourishing and eventful towns in the past. The North Borneo Train Tour is like a time machine trip that brings you back to these places full of stories, some with tears and blood. The locals can join this nostalgia and fun ride to learn the past.

If you haven’t been on a train ride, it’s a must-try (do bring your kids). The half-day tour starts at 8am at Tanjung Aru train station. Before boarding you will enjoy some Sabah coffee and light refreshment. Professional tour guide(s) will join you onboard as the storytellers who connect you to the happening along the railway.

Professional tour guide sharing the stories and history of North Borneo railway and towns

The passenger carriages are air-conditioned with comfortable seats. You can enjoy the scenic countryside view through the glass window. In old days, the passengers would not wear white shirt because it would be smeared by ashes from steam engine that was powered by burning firewood. The following are some interesting landmarks and major happening being shared.

“If history were taught in the form of stories, it would never be forgotten.” — Rudyard Kipling

Petagas

The Kota Kinabalu International Airport (KKIA) would be the first landmark that catches your attention. KKIA receives million of visitors every year and it is the busiest airport on Borneo island. Over 90% of tourists come to Sabah by air.

Opposite to KKIA is Petagas War Memorial Garden with temple-like white arch. In 1944 during World War II, a group of 176 Kinabalu guerilla members launched Double-Tenth Revolt to fight Japanese for control over Jesselton. Unfortunately, their victory didn’t sustain, and they were captured and transferred by this railway to this memorial site to be executed on 21 Jan 1944.

Kinarut

The name Kinarut derived from the words ‘China Road’. From the train, you can see the large Tien Nam Shi Toaism Temple (镇南寺) that worships Guang Ze Zun Wang (广泽尊王). Chinese immigrants didn’t have an easy life in Borneo. In some estates, their mortality rate could reach 40% due to ill treatment and poor living environment. Religion would offer them some comfort.

From Kinarut, you will start to see more old wooden shoplots. Most residents are Kadazan, Dusun, Bajau, Bruneian Malay and Chinese, they constitute the main coastal tribes on the west coast of Sabah.

Left: The North Borneo train was an important transportation during World War II. Right: a jeep train carrying troops and locals at Kinarut station

Kinarut is like a nobody town today but it was once an important base of Brunei Kingdom. In the late 17th century, due to civil war, Sultan Abdul Hakkul Mubin fled to Sabah and built a base in Kinarut. He remained there for ten years as the Sultan of Kinarut, and with the help from local Bajau and Dusun people, he managed to counter several attacks from Sultan Muhyiddin. The remains of his fort still can be seen in Kinarut river during low tide.

Kawang

In 1885, a group of British officials were on a hunt to search for a Murut chief called Kandurong. At that time, Kinarut was still under the Brunei sultanate, and there were tensions between the British officials and Kawang villagers.

Mural at Papar train station. The train in the drawing is an old locomotive powered by steam and made by Leeds (England).

They were ambushed and attacked by the local Bajau villagers. Five members of the police force lost their lives, which included Captain de Fontaine, Dr Fraser, Jemadhar Asa Singh and two Sikh officers. The De Fontaine Monument was elected in Kawang as a remembrance of this incident.

Papar

The final stop of this train tour is Papar town, which is one of the oldest settlement and the most multi-racial town of Sabah’s West Coast. The name Papar is derived from the Brunei word meaning flat and sloping land. Papar was used to be the rice bowl of Sabah. Before British came, it’s a slave trade centre.

You know you have arrived Papar town when you see the yellow steel-concrete bridge that crosses a wide river. Under the welcoming music from local Kadazan Papar people, everyone can walk out of the train to breathe some fresh air in Papar town, where you will have lunch before heading back to KK on the same train.

Arrive Papar train station for sightseeing in Papar town

Your tour guide will lead you on the sightseeing. The most fun part is to explore the local market. If the tour is on Thursday, the weekly tamu market would turn this peaceful town into a busy marketplace, where you can shop for variety of local produces, snacks, food and fruits. I can assure you that you would not want to leave with empty hand or stomach.

Walking and shopping at the Central Market and Tamu Market in Papar town centre

The post-war shophouses are another historical heritage of Papar. The typical shophouses consists of one or two rows, either linked or individual structures spread along a linear arrangement. Some are still using traditional bamboo blinds and signboards from 60s and 70s.

The Post-War wooden shoplots in Papar town

The shophouses are mostly occupied by Chinese settlers. The shops are in ground floor, and the families live on upper floor. You just have to be there to feel the retro vibes. Just grab your coffee or lunch at one of the kopitiam (coffee shop) there. Personally I recommend Liang Yung Hua Restaurant (梁荣华饭店), a Chinese restaurant more than 80 years old.

Restaurant and food booths in Papar town

After a delightful lunch and sightseeing in Papar town, you will head back to KK train station. For Sabahans, this historical tour will give you a fresh look into your local history, you will never look at these places the same way again.

Left: a stray cat that has a Pringles face found near Papar market. Right: Tama, the station master of Kishi Station (Japan). Picture source: Wikipedia. Probably we can promote our cat too. Just a thought.

Join the Tour

North Borneo train tour is available every day except Sunday. Besides this tour, the agent also organizes train trip to Beaufort and Tenom. Tour guides speaking in English, Chinese or Malay are available.

Promotion flyers of North Borneo Train Tour in English and Chinese. Please check their official sites for latest information.

To book a North Borneo train tour, you may contact or follow the agent via the following channels:

Website: northborneotraintour.com
Facebook: North-Borneo-Train-Tour
Phone (Whatsapp): +60 12-8028824
E-mail: sales@northborneotraintour.com

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Traditional Food of Papar

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Papar is a quiet and peaceful town about 38 Kilometres away from Kota Kinabalu City. The locals in Papar are mainly Kadazan Papar and Orang Brunei people who make some special delicacies.

1. Tapai Papar

From the name, you would think that it is the famous rice wine of Sabah. “Tapai Papar” cake is made by Orang Brunei lives in Laut Village of Papar.

Definitely it does not look like Tapai wine, but it really smells and tastes like Tapai, and really sweet too. They said they mixed the yeast with the cooked rice, then left it overnight, to produce the sweet taste and Tapai scent. Interesting huh..

2. Lauk Pais

I also tried their BBQ Fish, named Lauk Pais, which is Basung or Pinaasakan fish wrapped and grilled in leaves.

The fishes were fresh and sweet, and tasted a bit spicy. Yum, yum…

Lauk Pais, grilled basung fish wrapped in leave

3. Pinompol, the Papar Pizza

The main ingredient of Pinompol is desiccated coconut, which is fried and mixed with sago powder and sugar. It’s cooked until golden brown to release the pleasing coconut aroma. No oil is added. You can watch the video on how Pinompol is made. The taste is sweet and soft with crusty surface.

Pinompol is one of the traditional food that is not commonly appreciated by the young generations, so not many people know about it.

Pinompol goes well with hot coffee. You can add honey, cheese, mayonnaise or sliced bananas for extra flavours. This snack is homemade for self-consumption and not commonly sold in market. You can get Pinompol at Koposizon Homestay Papar.

4. Kuih Lidah

Kiuh Lidah, literally means Tongue Cake, is a traditional sweet snack of Bruneian Malay in Papar, the southeast part of Sabah, Malaysia. Also known as Kuih Tiram (Oyster Cake), Kuih Lidah is one of the best selling snacks of Sabah and getting popular throughout Malaysia.

Kuih Lidah with coated sugar and milk powder, is paired well with hot tea or coffee

5. Kuih Sayur

Kuih Sayur is a popular savory pastry from Papar. Not many outsiders know about it, as this delicious treat is always sold out. Due to its shape, it is called ‘wheel pastry’ (车轮饼) or ‘little fried jicama’ (炸葛仔) by the Chinese, and some also refer to it as ‘Tin Can Pastry’ (罐头饼).

Kuih Sayur is made from flour fried to an appetizing brown color with a crunchy crust, and it is filled with soft, grated jicama inside, which tastes similar to Ham Sui Gok (咸水角), another famous pastry.

Madam Teo and her family have been selling Kuih Sayur for about 70 years, and the recipe comes from her grandmother who hailed from Yongchun County (永春县) of China. Kuih Sayur is priced at RM1.20 each. Madam Teo’s stall in Papar Central Market (Pasar Am Papar) also sells a variety of other kuih and pastries every day from 6am to 11am, except Mondays.

6. Surabai

Surabai looks like a steamed rice pancake. Anyone can tell me more?

Kuih Lidah the Tongue Cake

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Kind words of the tongue make people feel good, and a Kuih Lidah (Tongue Cake) can make your tongue happy. Kuih Lidah is a traditional snack of Bruneian Malay (Orang Brunei) from Papar, Sabah (Malaysia) and it is getting popular throughout Malaysia.

Kuih Lidah Buaya (or Kuih Tiram) is a popular snack in Sabah

Kuih Lidah got the name (translated as Tongue Cake) from its tongue-like shape. But many think that Kuih Lidah looks like an oyster and call it Kuih Tiram (Oyster Cake) instead.

Does Kuih Lidah look like an oyster (left) or crocodile’s tongue (right)?

Other names of Kuih Lidah include kerepek layang (Kite Chips), kuih kertas (Paper Cake), kuih lidah kucing (Cat Tongue Cake), kuih lidah buaya (Crocodile Tongue Cake), and kuih kapal terbang (Aeroplane Cake). Whatsoever, Kuih Lidah is the name most commonly used in Sabah.

Usually Kuih Lidah is coated with icing sugar so it is sweet outside, and layers of thin fried bread creates the crispness and buttery flavour felt in your mouth.

Kuih Lidah originated from from Papar of Sabah. The gambus in the background symbolises the identity of Orang Brunei there.

Milk powder would be sprinkled on Kuih Lidah to add more milky and creamy taste. Kuih Lidah goes well with tea and coffee, so it becomes an ideal snack for tea break.

Frank Sonnenberg says, “it’s better to bite your tongue than to eat your words.” So if we have to shut up, biting and eating a Kuih Lidah would comfort you. Bring some to the meeting then. Just kidding.

A delightful tea break with Kuih Lidah. The plant at top right is also known as Lidah Buaya.

The main ingredients of Kuih Lidah are wheat flour, egg, and margarine. They are mixed and kneaded with a bit of salt, water, and potato flour to create a dough. Next this dough is flatten by a rolling pin. Cooking oil and margarine are spread on the surface, then this flat dough is rolled into a tube and sliced crosswise into smaller pieces, to be fried into Kuih Lidah in hot oil.

Kuih Lidah is usually sold and packed in clear plastic bags in local markets.

Some tourists would want to bring home some Kuih Lidah as souvenir. However, Kuih Lidah is too brittle to travel long distance. Without dry agent, the sugar on the kuih would melt in hot day. That’s why most Kuih Lidah sold in our market is the “compact version”.

Different types of Kuih Lidah. The ones on blue plate are the original Kuih Lidah. On top, from left to right, are chocolate, green bean and milk powder flavours.

The compact version of Kuih Lidah is smaller, rounder and denser (harder), which allows it to be packed securely in clear plastic bags. You can find packaged Kuih Lidah easily in local markets and food stores of Sabah, for about RM3 to RM5 a pack.

Some would prefer bite-sized Kuih Lidah than the long and thin version.

However, compacted Kuih Lidah looks and tastes a bit different. Anyway, it’s received well and is one of the best selling Sabah snacks.

The three most common flavours of Kuih Lidah are milk powder, chocolate and green bean. Some creative makers invent special tastes such as strawberry, yam and cinnamon, but these are not popular. Which taste do you like or want to try?

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

10 Most Beautiful Traditional Costumes of Sabah

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Sabah culture is so colourful. We have over 30 indigenous and 200 sub-ethnic groups, most of them have distinct traditional costume, a heritage that tells the world their identity, traditions, and stories. Sabah is beautiful because of this cultural diversity. I’ve been photographing Sabah traditional costumes for 15 years and would like to share what I think are the 10 most beautiful traditional costumes of Sabah (not in any order).

Please note there are always variants in costumes due to different occasions such as wedding, ceremony and social status, so I only can give you a general view. FYI, many ethnic groups share common elements such as linangkit (needlework), siga (headgear) and belts (e.g. Tangkong, Himpogot).

1. Kadazan Penampang

Kadazandusun is the largest indigenous group of Sabah, and Kadazan Penampang is the biggest sub-ethnic. Their traditional costume has become an iconic dress to represent Sabahans.

Kadazan Penampang couple in traditional costume

Kadazan Penampang costume has basic trimmings and embroidery and may look a bit plain. However, simplicity is beauty, like Vietnamese Ao Dai and Chinese Cheongsam. Though it has relatively less shining ornaments and accessories, it is an elegant cloth inspired by sarong kebaya.

The costume of young female consists of a long cylindrical wrap skirt and a sleeveless blouse (Sinuangga’), and decorated with gold trimmings running along the opening for head and arms, and along the seams at the side and along the middle of the back. Around the trimming on neck and front is 20 or more gold plated Betawi buttons.

Bobohizan is the high priestesses of Kadazan people. They wear large headgear with feathers and beads.

Silver-dollar chains (himpogot) and brass ring belts (tangkong) in set of 2 to 3 are worn around the waist and hip to emphasize the curve. Some himpogot and tangkong are antique passed on to women as heirloom or wedding dowry, they can cost thousands of dollars!

“Light version” of Kadazan Penampang costume could be a daily wear

The jacket and trousers of Kadazan Penampang men bear some Chinese influence. They wear headgear called siga, a very intricately woven square piece of headcloth, handwoven or embroidered, and folded to the shape of the peak of the Mount Kinabalu. Most men from Kadazandusun ethnic group wear siga.

The basic material for clothing is black commercial fabric, silk or velvet for ceremonial occasions. It is also made from cotton for daily wear.

2. Dusun Lotud

With a population of only 6,000 in Tuaran district, Dusun Lotud is very famous for weaving the embroidered panel called linangkit, which is used to decorate the skirt, sash and trousers of many Sabah tribes. Without linangkit, Sabah traditional costumes would be far less colourful.

Dusun Lotud couple in ceremonial attire. Note the siwot on her head, an ornament which is stuck into the hairbun. It consists of four bunches of red cloth and black cock feathers. The strings of silver-green beads in forehead was used to be the iridescent wings of beetles in old days.

In English, linangkit is sometimes referred to as needle weave or tapestry weave. a technique closely resembles the tatting or frivolite in Europe. Strips of linangkit are used by various native tribes to decorate and join the seams of their clothing. Different ethnic groups have different patterns and colours of linangkit.

Dusun Lotud girls in ceremonial attire with the following items: Sandai: long sash draped over one shoulder to the front and over the next shoulder falling to the back. Karo: a necklace made of mostly long barrel beads of glass, shell and carnelian.

The traditional costume of Dusun Lotud, be it the long sleeve ceremonial attire or short sleeve version, is just gorgeous. In fact, this costume is one of the favourite choice for contestants in Unduk Ngadau beauty pageant (Harvest Festival Queen) during Kaamatan (Sabah Harvest Festival).

Women in Dusun Lotud traditional costume. Gonob: knee-length black cotton tube skirt. From the waist down is a panel of linangkit needle work. Kuluwu: circular sash with gold trimming along the edges. At the seam is wide band of linangkit. Lilimbo: wide girdle of interconnected loops of split rattan worn around the hips. (Red colour for childless women, black colour for mothers)

Man is wearing headgear called sundi can be folded in different ways. When two points stick out, the weaver has two wives and so on (now you know!).

3. Rungus

Rungus of northern Sabah is considered as the most “traditional” and unique tribe among all Sabah indigenous groups. Rungus women wear a dark bandeau with delicate hand-stitched patterns, a matching knee-length tube skirt and a slipover that drapes over the arms like sleeves. The narrow upper zone of the bodice is decorated with horizontal bands filled with floating weft and/or embroidered motifs. The lower part of the bodice is embellished with vertical bands.

Rungus people dancing Mongigol Sumandai

The women’s hair is pulled back in a neat bun and decorated with a titimbok (a multi-colored floral headpiece), sisingal (a thin band of beads tied together around the forehead) and rampai (a hairpin which has two or three rows of folded pieces of colourful cloth strung together and which float down to the nape)

Rungus woman costume decorated with exotic accessories. Hip band looped with brass rings and antique beads called orot and two pinakol, beaded shoulder bands worn diagonally across the chest. Togkol: string of carnelian, glass and shell beads looped crossed over the shoulders. Sulau: necklace of old beads and a disc of white shell (giant clam) in front and back.

The dress is “musical” too, by having many tiny brass bells attached to bottom hem line of their skirt, making delightful tinkling sounds when they walk or dance.

Rungus women wearing brass ring necklace (Ganggalung) and legging (Lungkaki)

Some older Rungus women wear heavy brass ring necklace and legging. It’s a fading costume.
Ganggalung: discs of brass coil worn as necklace.
Lungkaki: tightly coiled brass ornament covering the lower legs.

The headgear of men is brightly coloured Kain tinohian (a.k.a. kain pis), a richly embroidered cloth with legendary creatures and takes four months to weave one.

4. Murut Tagol

Murut means “People of the Hill”, and majority of this third largest indigenous group of Sabah lives in interior. They were used to be fearsome headhunters in the past, and men preserve their wild warrior outfit until today (they prefer proper shirts anyway).

Girls in Murut traditional costume

Murut has over 15 ethnic groups, and Murut Tagol is the most skillful for their weave work. Murut women wear black, sleeveless blouse and a long, black skirt decorated with colourful beads motifs of daily objects such as flowers, insects, animals and ferns. Female skirt has hip belts made of chained white round seeds collected from Job’s Tears plant (Coix lacryma-jobi).

The men costume is even more interesting. They wear vest, frontal and rear flaps made of tree bark. First, barks of the tarap or tamarang (timadang) trees (Artcocarps tamaran) are peeled from the trunks, soaked in stream for days to soften them up, then it is pounded, washed and rinsed, and lastly dried under sun for the fabric. However, man costume is too “sexy” so they also wear short pants for more cover.

Beautiful female traditional costume of Murut

The headgear of Murut may be adorned with long tail feathers of Great Argus Pheasant. To see more Murut costumes, you may check out Kalimaran Festival which is held annually in Tenom.

5. Bajau Sama

While most Kadazandusun and Murut people use black as the base colour, Bajau goes bold with striking colours such as yellow, red, green and blue. This also reflects in their multi-coloured and elaborate floral motifs in their crafts, an element greatly inspired by Islam. Bajau in Kota Belud town is also known as Cowboys of the East due to their mastery in horse-riding skill.

Traditional costumes of Bajau Same

Bajau women wear an unusual headgear called sarempak, which is a two-pieced head decoration in the shape of a ship made of gilded silver or modern substitute. Small ornaments dangling down from both ends of sarempak are called garigai. Next is the brightly colored satiny blouse usually in yellow. The flared sleeves show the cuffs of an underblouse in contrasting hue.

Mock wedding of Bajau people

Shining metallic accessories complement their traditional costume really well. Bajau women covers the front from below the neck to waist with beautiful mandapun, a flat collar-ornament accentuating the neckline decorated with stylized leaves in silver, goldleaf or substitute. To add more colours, long and wide band of linangkit embroidered panels (berangkit in Bajau) are sewn into their long black wrap-skirt.

Bajau men wear the traditional headgear called kain dastar, which is also used in women skirt. See more their vibrant culture in Tamu Besar Festival which is normally held in October in Kota Belud town. They even dress up their horses!

6. Kadazan Papar

I wonder who designed the traditional costume of Kadazan Papar. It’s so cute and “flowerish”. The lovely girl costume looks neat and modern. Kadazan Papar women wear a short jacket with gold or silver buttons over a white blouse, and their knee-length black skirt is decorated with a horizontal and vertical cross-stitched panel lined with gold thread. Gold or silver trimming is used on the seams.

Kadazan Papar couple

The mini conical hat is made of fine bamboo strips and features coloured feather-down or artificial flowers at the top to show the wearer’s marital status. Feather-down for the single lady and flowers for the married woman. Another hint is the silver belt (antique British trade dollar), unmarried ladies wear four and married wear two.

The flowers of Kadazan Papar

If no feather or flower, the woman is widowed, grandmothers or elderly ladies then.

7. Dusun Tindal

Influenced by culture of Bajau Sama in the same district, Dusun Tindal is also the most colourful Kadazandusun sub-ethnic group. Just look at the girl costume, 3-colour slashed and flared sleeves from the elbows, rainbow-like beads girdle around the hips, and also embroider on their arms and hem of the skirt. To add more colours, in formal occasion they also carry sunduk, a multi-color hood with embroidered border.

Dusun Tindal people from Kota Belud

On top of colours is extensive use of metallic elements: line and line of gold or silver trimmings and sequins are sewn into their blouse and skirt, two to four Himpogot (or Simpogot) silver-dollar chain belts on the waist, one or more of kuapu (a round embossed silver tobacco container made by the Bruneis) are worn around the neck on a silver chain.

Close up of Dusun Tindal girl dress

Dusun Tindal has brought the creativity of native fashion to the next level. You would be surprised that Dusun Tindal extracts fibre from a wild banana or pisang lanut (Musa textilis) which is processed into a coarse yarn for weaving their skirts, jackets and headwear.

8. Sea Bajau

While Bajau Sama in West Coast of Sabah has the best horse-riding skill, Sea Bajau (or Suluk) in East Coast is an expert of seafaring. Also known as the Sea Gypsies, Sea Bajau spent most of their time on the boat and sailed around the sea of South East Asia. Now they are not as nomadic and many have called Sabah their homeland.

Sea Bajau girls in Lepa-Lepa boat

Similar to Bajau Sama, Sea Bajau is also a fan of bright colours. Their dresses are almost fully covered with colourful patterns, and gold / silver trimmings, sequins and embroidery. Sea Bajau dancers wear long gold or silver fingercovers, to show their fingers dance.

Sea Bajau girl dancer

Backed by beating of drum and kulintangan (small brass gong) music, the dance of Sea Bajau is one of the most mesmerizing in Borneo. They shake and move every part of their bodies, combine with rich facial expression to dazzle you, even to a seductive level. To see more of Sea Bajau, don’t miss the Lepa-Lepa Festival in April every year in Semporna.

The traditional costume of Sea Bajau is really fancy and shout “Look at me! Look at me!”

9. Dusun Lebou

Dusun Lebou (or Lobu) is a sub-ethnic of Kadazandusun lives in Sook (in Keningau district of Sabah interior). Their big woven cloth (called Binaduan) takes a month to weave and consists of different Rungus motifs and even some Dayak motifs from the southern part of Borneo. The complete costume is 2 pieces of woven Binaduan sewn together to create the front and back covers. Binaduan is used in skirt too.

Dusun Lebou girls from Sook

The size, design and complexity of Binaduan is simply astonishing. Men’s costume has a finer motif called Inambau. Unfortunately, the last person who knows how to weave Inambau has passed away. The traditional costume of Dusun Lebou is complex and special, but this art can go extinct.

Binaduan cloth of Dusun Lebou

In old days, married woman with child was not allowed to be a Binaduan weaver. The story was:- a mother was too engrossed with weaving Binaduan from morning until night that she accidentally starved her baby. Devastated, she forbade any married woman to weave Binaduan. The ban was lifted later so more people can pass on this heritage.

Back view of Binaduan is as beautiful as butterfly wings

10. Lundayeh

Most Sabah Lundayeh lives in Sipitang, Tenom and Long Pasia. Different to other groups who mostly use black as main colour, white blouse and black skirt are the signature wear of Lundayeh ladies. Lundayeh men wear jackets made of tree barks called kuyu talun.

Smile of Lundayeh girls, so sweet. Marry one?

Traditional costume of Lundayeh people is simple, but sharp and catchy

Bead cap made entirely of beads (it can be glass, carnelian and other materials) is worn by every Lundayeh woman. In the past, only upper class ladies could wear bead cap. Other key accessories are multi-strand necklaces, silver waist belts, and colourful bead girdle wrap around the hip. Overall it’s a very clean and stylish traditional costume.

Cute Lundayeh flower girls in Sipitang

That’s all! Have you seen other beautiful costumes that desire to be featured here? What’s your top 10 list? Please share it in comment section below.

Now you can see that Sabahans are totally different breed of Malaysians. Put all 200 traditional costumes together and we can make a Sabah version of Wakanda movie.

Sabah has enough beautiful costumes to film Wakanda. Sakanda anyone?

To learn more about traditional costumes of Sabah, you may visit Chanteek Borneo Indigenous Museum in Tamparuli, which showcases wide array of costume dolls, and it is awarded the title “The First Miniature Indigenous Museum” in the country by Malaysia Book of Records. Want to rent a traditional costume? You can browse Sabah Cultural Board website.

Reference Books

“An Introduction to the Traditional Costumes of Sabah” – January 1, 1997, by Rita Lasimbang and Stella Moo-Tan
“The Beliefs and Practices of the Kadazandusun-Murut Natives of Sabah” – 2017, by John Seet

Liang Yung Hua Restaurant (梁荣华饭店) and its 80-year-old recipe

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Can we put equal sign between “New” and “Better”? Probably not everything, especially for traditional food by Leong Wing Hua Restaurant in Papar town, which is famous for their roasted pork prepared in original way for over 80 years.

Papar is 37 Km away from Kota Kinabalu City. The old wooden shophouses there would be the first thing that grabs your attention. Outsiders may think that it’s a sign of under-development and ought to be replaced.

The location of Liang Yun Hua Restaurant

However, the locals may not agree, as they appreciate these old building as a heritage. You will understand their sentiment, after you have a meal at Leong Wing Hua Restaurant (Other names: Restoran Liang Yun Hua, Kedai Makan Liang Yung Hua; 梁荣华饭店 in Chinese). The authentic taste of their roasted pork brings you back to the era when taste and quality matter more than profit.

Liang Yun Hua Restaurant is over 80 years old

The interior of Leong Wing Hua Restaurant is quite basic. No fancy theme, no air-conditioning, and no music, but it’s always crowded with people who want great food.

Leong Wing Hua Restaurant serves excellent roasted duck, Chinese sausages, and roasted pork (烧鸭、叉烧、烧腊、脆皮烧肉 in Chinese). You better be there early before everything is sold out. Normally we eat these with noodle or rice.

Food menu of Liang Yun Hwa Restaurant (see translation in blue at the left)

Their noodle is also handmade, which tastes better, less oily and more chewy. Another must try is their Vinegar / Sour Pork Trotter (猪脚醋 in Chinese). Each dish costs about RM6.50 (≈US$1.60). Please see food menu above (prices as of Mar 2016).

This restaurant was started by Liang family in 1937 and is passed down to 4th generation now. The founder learned the “secret” recipe of making delicious roasted pork from a Hong Kong chef who worked for a wealthy family. Even after 80 years, the restaurant insists to grill the pork in traditional way with charcoal.

Noodle with roasted pork and Chinese sausage

The slow and mild grilling process by charcoal can keep the meat juicy and smoke it with nice aroma. In contrast, most restaurants today order roasted pork from distributors, who usually use “shortcut” method, i.e. by gas or electric oven, to mass-produce mediocre roasted pork to save time and cost.

Noodle of Liang Yung Hua Restaurant. Papar folks like to put a bit of Tomato Ketchup (Maggi brand) for the best taste.

FYI, Leong Wing Hua Restaurant also makes Hakka Pork Belly With Yam (客家扣肉) during Chinese New Year by special order.

Chinese sausage of Liang Yun Hua Restaurant

The following is the location and contact of the restaurant:
Cellphone: +60 16-5366971 (Ah Lun)
Address: P. O. Box 158, 89608 Papar, Jalan Masjid Papar, Sabah, Malaysia
(Next to SJK Cheng Hwa Primary School; 吧巴正华小学 in Chinese)
Opening Hours: 7am – 2pm (may close earlier if items sold out) (closed on Monday)
GPS: 5.735573, 115.932982 (see Location Map or Street View)

Photos taken in Papar, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Horny buffalo enjoying sunset bath

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One year I had a vacation at Beringgis Beach Resort in Kinarut. The weather was nice and a beautiful sunset was approaching. Then I saw there was something else also enjoying the sunset.

It’s a buffalo at the beach. Seeing buffalo in paddy field is a common sight in Sabah, but I wonder what the heck it was doing in the sea. It looks like a depressed blue-collar wanting to end his burdensome life by drowning himself in the water. :-p

Out of curiousity, I walked to this buffalo for a closer look to see if it was sick. It noticed me but my presence didn’t bother it at all, nor did it try to move away. Since it was used to human presence, it must be from the village nearby.

This buffalo is really old and its horns are almost triple the length of other buffaloes! The gold ray of sunset shined on its hairy body, making it looks like some sort of tutelary LOL. But I didn’t dare to go too near.

So I just stick around to see what it would do next.

The high tide started to come in and the water got deeper, but it showed no intention of getting out of water.

The sea level got higher and reached its belly, and it was washed by waves after waves. It looked enjoyable and wagging its tail. Ok, now I see what it was doing. It’s taking a sunset bath! What? A retired buffalo trying to relax and enjoy life? LOL.

Whatever, I wish you all have a nice weekend. We should learn from this buffalo who knows how to have a good time.

Photos taken in Kinarut, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Fun ride on North Borneo steam train

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In my childhood, one of the most exciting Christmas gifts I wanted was “choo-choo” steam train toy. Now I was even happier to have a fun ride on a real steam train on the oldest railway (established since 1896) of Borneo last week. Big toy man.. FYI, “North Borneo” is the name of Sabah during British colony time.

Above: the office of North Borneo Railway in Tanjung Aru Train Station

Actually it’s a tour product for tourists to experience the nostalgic romance of riding on a 57-year-old antique steam train. Even though it’s a train, it’s not a public transportation so you MUST book a seat in advance. You may sign up a tour with the company, North Borneo Railway. The fee is MYR290 (≈USD$97) for adult, MYR185 (≈USD$62) for child (3-12 years old). The rates are as of 22 Mar 2013. The steam train runs on every Wednesday and Saturday.

Above: entrance of North Borneo Railway
The North Borneo Railway is in Tanjung Aru Train Station, which is about 5 KM away from Kota Kinabalu, capital of Sabah.

Passengers will be given a “Train Passport” before boarding at 9.30am. It’s only for fun and have some brief introduction about the towns we see along the railway. The train steward will stamp the passport whenever we approach a town. At the end I have 5 stamps on the book.

Above is the route map I copy from the Train Passport. Our steam train departs at 10am from Tanjung Aru and head to Papar town about 40 Kilometers away. Our train passes through the countryside and we see villages, rivers, mangrove, paddy fields, rainforests and plantations on the way. The part our train passing through a 450-Meter Pengalat Tunnel (built by British in early 1900) is also fun. The whole tour takes less than 5 hours.

You may watch the following 3-min video about the train ride:

Click Here for wider video

Above: this steam train is made by Vulcan Foundry Ltd in Newton-le-Willows in Lancashire, United Kingdom in 1955 for North Borneo Railway.

Our steam train is one of the few functional locomotive powered by burning wood. They don’t use coal that produces very fine ash powder which would cause black stains on your shirt. Anyway, you better don’t wear anything white on the train.

The railway service of Borneo is first started by William Clarke Cowie, Managing Director of the British North Borneo Chartered Company in 1896.

The exterior of the steam train is in deep green and cream colors, the original colors used in old days. The windows are open all the time for a more enjoyable experience. However, it’s still a bit warm inside, so I advise you to wear thin T-shirt.

The interior is natural wooded seat and there are cooling by fans. This train has 5 Japanese-designed carriages that have been meticulously restored and renovated to reflect the era of the classical steam train. Very nice ambiance indeed.

The first landmark that we pass by is Petagas War Memorial.

Breakfast (Danish pastries, croissant and tea/coffee) is served onboard.

Passing by water village of Putatan.

We stop at Kinarut town for 20 minutes and visit the Tien Nam Shi Buddhist Temple (镇南寺).

Burning incense sponsored by individual who makes wishes (written on red paper)

Doing tourist stuff…

Back to train and cool ourselves with cold towel.

Above: brick factory in Kawang. Our train travels at a speed of 50 to 60 Kilometer per hour.

Btw, there is a unisex toilet in each carriage for your call of nature.

If you reach Kawang, you should check out the nice view of mangrove forest.

Some souvenir is available for sale on the train. I bought a bookmark.

The train has 5 colonial-period carriages and each can accommodate 16 passengers, with a total train capacity of 80 passengers.

Reaching the steel trestle bridge of Papar.

We stop at Papar town for a 30 minutes of free and easy sightseeing around town. You can check out the old wooden post-war shoplots here.

Old building with air-conditioning, haha, interesting contrast..

Papar is our last stop. Now our steam train needs to turn around so it can head back to Tanjung Aru. Some of us stick around to see how the Pullman carriage detaches and connects to the rear (now rear become front). You may watch the 1-min video below:

Click Here for wider video

Enjoying our lunch on the way back… Guess what we had?

Above: strawberry ice-cream as dessert

We arrived Tanjung Aru Station at 1:40pm. Overall, everything is great. The experience is really fun, the food is nice, the train steward is friendly and the ambiance is excellent. The only thing I can complain is the high price. That’s probably why I didn’t see many faces of locals.

More Photos

You may check out my photo album if you want to see more nice pictures:

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo