Tag Archives: Kuala Penyu

Couples at Kapalai Island Resort

Top 10 Islands of Sabah

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Who can resist the allure of tranquil seas and pristine white sandy beaches found on tropical islands? Sabah, often dubbed the “Maldives of South East Asia,” boasts numerous scenic islands ready to enchant tourists. Below, we present the top 10 islands (not in any order) in Sabah. Each island possesses its own unique features and beauty, showcasing the remarkable diversity of landscapes these islands offer.

1. Sipadan Island

Sipadan Island is one of the top diving sites in the world. As the only oceanic island of Malaysia, it has garnered significant recognition, having been featured multiple times in National Geographic and Discovery Channels. Diving enthusiasts are in for a treat, with the opportunity to spot over 10 sea turtles on a single dive.

Snorkelling at Sipadan Island
Sea turtles are everywhere around Sipadan Island
Thousands of jackfish swimming under our feet.
School of Barracudas
Bumphead parrotfish
Sipadan Island is the only oceanic island of Malaysia.
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However, the real thrill lies in witnessing the barracuda tornado. Divers exploring the hanging garden dive site are greeted by a breathtaking array of colourful soft and hard corals. Read More or Book a Tour (Use Promo Code MYSABAH for Special Discount)

2. Kapalai Island

Nestled in the Celebes Sea off the coast of Semporna, Kapalai Island is a true gem. Its remote location lends it an otherworldly charm, making visitors feel as though they’ve stumbled upon a hidden paradise. One of its most enchanting features is its “magical” beach, which only emerges during low tide, adding to its mystique. It’s no wonder that the water bungalow resort on this island is consistently fully booked during peak seasons.

Kapalai Island Resort
Snorkelling with starfishes at Kapalai Island
Kapalai Island at night
Coconut beach of Kapalai Island
Jumping into the sea of Kapalai Island
Sunset at Kapalai Island
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During the day, visitors can relax on beach chairs, soaking in the stunning sea views. As night falls, a magical scene unfolds beneath the boardwalk, with turtles and various sea creatures foraging, providing an unforgettable experience for those lucky enough to witness it. Read More or Book a Tour (Use Promo Code MYSABAH for Special Discount)

3. Mabul Island

Situated closest to Sipadan, Mabul Island boasts a rich tapestry of coral and stands as one of Malaysia’s premier muck diving sites. Underwater photographers will find themselves in paradise, with an abundance of sea critters such as nudibranchs and flatworms, some of which are yet to be named. Encounters with turtles, giant groupers, sharks, and rays are commonplace in these waters.

Water Bungalow of Mabul Island
Morning walk on Mabul Island
Aerial view of Mabul Island
Sunset of Mabul Island
Oil rig repurposed by Seaventures as a dive centre

Accommodation options on the island cater to a diverse range of travellers, from budget lodges to luxurious 5-star water bungalow resorts, ensuring that there’s something for everyone, whether it’s honeymooners, scuba divers, or backpackers. Read More or Book a Tour (Use Promo Code MYSABAH for Special Discount)

4. Boheydulang

Dubbed the “Pearl Island,” Boheydulang boasts some of the most breathtaking sea views in Sabah. Situated within the Semporna Islands Park, renowned for its rich marine ecology, Boheydulang is the remnant of an ancient volcano that erupted 2.5 million years ago. The sea villages surrounding Boheydulang serve as favourite photography spots for world-renowned photographers, adding to the island’s allure. Read More or Book a Tour (Use Promo Code MYSABAH for Special Discount)

Enjoy the panoramic view of Tun Sakaran Marine Park on top of Bohey Dulang Island
These islands were used to be part of an ancient volcano rim
Jetty of Boheydulang Island
The jetty of Bohey Dulang Island
The water village of Sea Bajau people

5. Lankayan Island

Well-known for its whale shark sightings and turtle nesting grounds, Lankayan Island offers a slice of paradise. Stay in the sea-facing chalets, and wake up to the sight of numerous fishes, turtles, and baby sharks gracefully swimming in front of your balcony each morning. A short walk leads you to the inviting beach, perfect for a refreshing swim. As a private island, Lankayan ensures a tranquil holiday experience, free from the disruptions of noisy strangers. Read More or Book a Tour (Use Promo Code MYSABAH for Special Discount)

Holiday on Lankayan Island
Releasing turtle hatchlings
Kayaking on Lankayan Island
Room of Lankayan Island Resort
Balcony with sea view

6. Selingan Turtle Island

Turtles, among the oldest and most captivating marine creatures, find their sanctuary on Selingan Turtle Island. Each year, hundreds, sometimes thousands, of sea turtles embark on remarkable journeys spanning hundreds of miles to return to the very island where they were born—a testament to Selingan’s significance in turtle conservation.

Turtle nesting on the beach of Selingan Island
Nice beach of Selingan Island
Prepare to release turtle hatchlings
Turtle hatchery on Selingan Island. You can adopt the nest.
Sunrise at Selingan Island

Here, visitors have the unique opportunity to witness mother turtles laying eggs up close and even participate in the adoption of the hatchlings, offering an unforgettable experience steeped in nature’s wonders. Read More or Book a Tour (Use Promo Code MYSABAH for Special Discount)

7. Mataking Island

Mataking Island is tailor-made for a romantic island getaway, making it a sought-after honeymoon destination for Europeans. This picturesque tropical paradise boasts white sandy beaches, crystal-clear waters, breathtaking sunsets, and luxurious resorts. Couples can choose to exchange vows underwater or in the charming island chapel, adding a touch of magic to their special day.

Mataking Island is one of the best island destinations of Sabah
Swing on the beach of Mataking Island
Honeymoon couples at Mataking Island Resort
Sea view of Mataking Island
Underwater mailbox of Mataking Island

For scuba diving enthusiasts, don’t miss the chance to send a postcard from the underwater postbox, a unique experience offered by Mataking Island, home to the deepest mailbox in the world. Read More or Book a Tour (Use Promo Code MYSABAH for Special Discount)

8. Mantanani Island

Mantanani Island, often referred to as the Mermaid Island, owes its nickname to the presence of a friendly dugong residing in its waters. As visitors approach the turquoise sea surrounding Mantanani, they are immediately enchanted by its dreamlike beauty. Whether lounging in the island resorts or lodges, snorkelling, fishing, diving, or simply strolling along the beach, there’s no shortage of activities to enjoy. Who knows? You might even catch a glimpse of a mermaid. Read More or Book a Tour (Use Promo Code MYSABAH for Special Discount)

Mantanani Island receives many international tourists too.
The sea colours of Mantanani Island is stunning
Lungisan Island of Mantanani
Mantanani Island is also known as Mermaid Island
Snorkelling on Mantanani Island

9. Pulau Tiga

Pulau Tiga gained fame as the filming location for the first TV reality show, “Survivor.” This island stands out as one of Sabah’s most unique marine parks, boasting a mud volcano and Snake Island among its attractions. Yet, its true allure lies in the untouched, snow-white beaches of Sands Spit Island.

Beach of Pulau Tiga Island
Snorkeling on Pulau Tiga Island
Sands Spit Island (Pulau Kalampunian Besar) of Pulau Tiga Marine Park
Mud volcano bath on Pulau Tiga
Sea snake of Snake Island (Pulau Tiga)

The main island, cloaked in dense forest, teems with diverse wildlife. Hikers can uncover hidden coves and secluded beaches along the network of nature trails, promising delightful discoveries at every turn. Read More or Book a Tour (Use Promo Code MYSABAH for Special Discount)

10. Sapi Island

Just a 15-minute boat ride from Kota Kinabalu City, the capital of Sabah, lies Sapi Island. Despite its modest size, this island boasts crystal-clear waters and an abundance of marine life, surpassing its neighbouring islands. While tourists may initially feel a tinge of apprehension at the sight of harmless wild boars and monitor lizards roaming the island, they quickly come to cherish such authentic encounters with nature. Read More or Book a Tour (Use Promo Code MYSABAH for Special Discount)

Sapi Island is situated in Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park
A secret cliff behind Sapi Island
Stand-up Paddleboarding on Sapi Island
Sunset cruise around Sapi Island
Corals of Sapi Island

Other Islands of Sabah

Sabah is home to nearly 400 islands, each with its own unique charm, but only a select few are developed for tourism purposes. Below is a list of other islands that travellers can explore:

These islands offer diverse experiences ranging from pristine beaches and vibrant marine life to cultural encounters and outdoor adventures, making them ideal destinations for travellers seeking unforgettable experiences in Sabah.

Tempurong Golden Beach Resort

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When school holiday approaches, parents would think hard where to bring their children for some quality family time. Guess what, there were two places that I really hated my parents sent me to when I was a kid. First is tuition class. What The Fish, the children are deprived of break time they desire. It’s a child abuse!

All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. Let your children play.

The second place is relative’s house. Usually it ends up like the adults mingling and having a great time among themselves, but leaving me bored to death (unless my favorite cousin is around).

Strolling on Tempurong Beach

Awesome parents will put some thoughts on making their children enjoy hanging out with them, which is important for bonding. Among some popular choices for family vacation are “Jalan-Jalan” (walk around) trip to Kundasang highland, islands off Kota Kinabalu City (KK) or staying in beach resort.

Tempurong Golden Beach Resort

There are a lot of options for a wonderful family trip in other locations. Just for sharing. If you want the trip packed with fun activities in nature, you may consider going south to Kuala Penyu.

Tempurong Golden Beach Resort in Kuala Penyu

Tempurong Golden Beach Resort is located at Tempurong Beach (or Pantai Tempurung) about 15 Kilometres away from Kuala Penyu town. It targets at family groups which want to unwind themselves with leisure stay and having some activities.

Seaside chalet of Tempurong Golden Beach Resort

Besides accommodation, they offer outdoor activities package for family and company too.

Big coconut shell statue at Tempurong Golden Beach Resort

Tempurung means Coconut Shell in Malay. About 200 years ago, the villagers found a coconut shell engraved with holy verses of the Al-Quran on the beach, so they renamed this village from Tanah Merah to Tempurung.

Watermelon in front of the seaside chalet

Just look at the photos of Tempurong Golden Beach Resort I post here and you shall get a good idea what you can do there.

Seaview Bedroom (2 queen size bed)

Riverside Bedroom (1 queen size, 1 double decker)

The resort has 15 basic rooms with air-conditioning and attached bathroom cum toilet. Their highlight is the nature-based activities such as fishing and island survivor program.

Beach of Tempurong Golden Beach Resort

A study conducted by two PhDs found that exposing children with Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD) to “green outdoor activities” reduces symptoms significantly.

Tempurong Beach is a few Kilometers long

The white sandy beach is just next to the resort. Tempurung Beach is not a touristy beach so it is not crowded, your family can have the whole beach most of the time.

Activity hall near the beach

The visitors can use the activity hall next to the beach for gathering and group activities.

Volley Ball field near the beach

Volley ball is one of the great past time activities.

Hammocks at the beach side

Or you can choose to take a nap in hammock. The wind was quite strong at Tempurung Beach during my visit. I didn’t really feel warm.

You can have camp fire at night here

Camp fire at the beach can bring back a lot of memories. This place is far away from city and free of pollution, so you can see starry sky at night. The resort can prepare BBQ or steamboat dinner for you upon request.

Tempurong Beach of Kuala Penyu

Your children will enjoy a stroll on the beach and run like wild horse. The resort can bring you out to the sea for snorkeling and fishing.

Seine Fishing at the shore

In the morning, you would find local fishermen catching fishes in the sea. They are very friendly and won’t mind you joining them or busybody with their caught.

Fishermen at Tempurong Beach

Though Tempurung Beach is big, only a dozen houses are built along it. It’s a peaceful and underpopulated village.

We human are biological being, and our body system is linked to nature. Biophilia hypothesis says humans possess an innate tendency to seek connections with nature and other forms of life. That’s why we are always happy when we are in the wild.

Human is part of Nature, and Nature is part of Human.

However, nowadays kids are isolated from nature because both parents and teachers think outdoor is full of hostile things for kids, like UV, bacteria, bees… Many shcools have strict policy of not allowing students to get near the water in school trips.

Tempurong Beach. The dark things on the beach are seaweeds washed to the shore

Therefore, our society has cultivated “strawberry generations” which are overprotected and overly dependent on technology. If you put a kid in the wild, they won’t know how to get around and will cry for mommy very soon. It’s just not right if human is uncomfortable with nature.

Batu Luang Beach

The beautiful Batu Luang Beach is only 1 KM away from the resort. It has one of the best sunset view in Sabah.

Small river at Tempurong Golden Beach Resort

There is a small river next to Tempurong Golden Beach Resort. It’s connected to the sea during high tide, and you can see lot of fishes.

Small bridge of Tempurong Golden Beach Resort

Mangrove river near the resort

The river is part of a mangrove teeming with fishes, shellfish and shrimps.

Fishing and rowing boat

You can do fishing and rowing boat in this river. Kids love this because they never have a chance to do this in city. At first they would be a bit worry sitting in the wobbly boat, but soon they will enjoy the experience.

Hunting for mud lobster at night

At night you can have a little adventure at the riverside to see what comes up in the dark. Have you ever seen a Mud Lobster before?

Trying out traditional food

Don’t let your mom cook. The resort can prepare special meals such as traditional food and steamboat for your family.

Dining area of Tempurong Golden Beach Resort

I have tried some of their nice food during my stay, for example, tom yam steamboat, sago (Ambuyat), seafood buffet. They also have a small shop to sell cold soda drink and beer.

Island Survivor

We are getting smarter living in city but become stupider in the wild. It’s highly probable that people can die of hunger in the wild, even if there are plenty of edible things around them. You can take part in Island Survivor program of the resort. An instructor will bring your family for a taste of adventure in a wood area near the resort.

Learning about survival

Some of the skills taught in the survival program includes using knife, setting trap, making shelter and starting a fire.

Outdoor survival course

The course caters to the comfort level of your family and company. It’s designed to be relaxing, so everyone from kid to adult will find it comfortable and enjoyable.

Setting up trap to catch bird and small animals

If you want it more stimulating or challenging, of course you can discuss with your instructor beforehand, to make the experience more thrilling. Company could organize team building and competition for their staffs too.

Starting a fire

Some may think outdoor survival skill is unnecessary, until one day they find themselves a victim of earthquake and flood (touch wood!), and don’t know what to do. Like it or not, natural disaster does happen unexpectedly, so there is no harm to equip ourselves with some survival knowledge and that may save our lives one day.

Building a shelter in forest

During survival challenge, it’s the best time to observe the strength and personality of your mates. A big guy with six-pack abs in your office can turn into a wuss, and a clerk may show better leadership than her boss in pressing environment. For survival, mental strength is matter more than muscle.

Education tour around Kuala Penyu

At the resort, you also can arrange education or group tour to nearby destinations such as Rumbia / Sago Information Center, Pulau Tiga Island and Kilas Wetland.

↓ Download the Brochure

The following is the contact of Tempurong Golden Beach Resort if you need more info:
E-mail: borneonaturetour@gmail.com
Tel: +60 16-831 3163
Facebook: TempurongGoldenBeachResort
GPS: 5.531031, 115.536236 (see Location Map or Street View)

Photos taken in Kuala Penyu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Batu Luang, the Rock that ate the Bride

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I was astonished when a famous photographer from West Malaysia showed me some stunning photos of Batu Luang, a bell-shaped rock located in a beach of Kuala Penyu. Batu means “Rock” in Malay language, and Batu Luang means “Luang Rock” literally.

Batu Luang is surrounded by mossy green rocks, sea, pebbles, rusty-red rockface, and caves, when one or more of these being framed into a photo during orange-hued dusk, you will get one of the most amazing sunset shots of Sabah.

Nice sunset at Batu Luang (high tide)

It is funny that it’s non-Sabahan who introduced Batu Luang to me. Anyway, I’m excited to check out Batu Luang near Tempurong Beach (or Pantai Tempurung). The rock is very accessible and near to the main road in Tempurung Village.

Walking to Batu Luang. The hills at both sides look like a giant gate, or the parents of little Batu Luang

The beach and hills are covered by cobbles and pebbles

Batu Luang Beach

The view is better than what I saw in the photos online, which show only a small part of the beach. The beach and rockfaces are covered by pebbles in different size and shapes. There are 5 or 6 caves at the base of the hills there. The biggest cave can fit in 10 or more people, other caves are more like a hole.

The pebble beach and cave around Batu Luang

Batu Luang may look small in photos. Actually it’s over 12 Meters high and the only big rock standing in the sea (as far as we can see).

Small caves at the base of hill, created by coastal erosion

Though Batu Luang is a new hot spot for local photographers, there is no hotel, restaurant, parking lots and toilet nearby. Occasionally you would see some local youngsters frolicking there in hot days, or a few photographers taking photos during dusk, Most of the time you would be the only one at the beach.

Splendid twilight hour at Batu Luang

Therefore, Batu Luang Beach retains its beauty of untouched nature. It has some special geological features which are uncommon in Sabah. For example, the rustic-red color of the rockfaces are so magnificent when they are painted over by golden sun ray in late afternoon.

Legend of Batu Luang

The beautiful Batu Luang has a tragic story about a newly-wed couple. Many years ago in Kuala Penyu, after the wedding celebration at the bride’s home, the couple walked to the house of bridegroom with their families in a fine morning. When they were approaching Batu Luang, the sky turned dark, and they were hit by heavy rainstorm.

Batu Luang rock in the morning

Therefore, they ran and took shelter in a cave at Batu Luang. When the storm was over, the group moved out from the cave. The couple was the last to exit. Suddenly, the cave collapsed and closed, the bride was the last person on the way out. The bridegroom grabbed her hands trying to pull her out. Unfortunately, her hands slipped and left the wedding ring in the hand of her husband. She was sealed in the cave forever.

Ladies at Batu Luang Beach (better stay away from the cave LOL)

The locals say sometimes they can hear woman crying inside the rock at night. So sad… On positive side, the bridegroom doesn’t need to buy a new wedding ring if he remarries.

View of Batu Luang rock from inside a cave

According to a local blog by Muzaffar Libon Jueh, there is a part two for this story. The bride was trapped in the cave and alive. The villagers tried everything to open the cave but unsuccessful. Then a bird flied by and chirped, like saying, “Poke with a needle then it’ll open.” However, the people there just scoffed and ignored it. After 7 days of trying, the villagers gave up, so was the bride. She handed over the wedding ring to her husband through a small opening, asking him to forget her. She was then locked inside forever and marry to the guardian spirit of the cave, and became an angel named Kasum. If you bump into a pretty girl playing at Ara tree on top of the hill near Batu Luang, she could be Kasum.

The small shrub on Batu Luang reminds me of Batu Burung (Bird Rock)

However, this sounds like a “modern” legend because Sabah had no such thing as wedding ring a few hundred years ago. Very likely parents make up this story to scare children, so they won’t go playing around Batu Luang, which can be dangerous due to a few reasons. The water at Batu Luang Beach can be quite deep during high tide, and the current is strong.

Interesting rock formation and rocks covered by green algae

Furthermore, they could be hit by falling rocks from the loose rockface above. Our people also believe exploring cave would disturb the “Bogeymen” dwells inside, hence the warning they would be eaten alive by cave and become the next Batu Luang.

A Beach that Rocks

Batu Luang is not the only interesting rock here. Just look around and you will be fascinated by variety of rocks at the shore.

Shingle beach of Batu Luang

Most of the rocks at Batu Luang Beach are cobble with round edges, after being moved and tumbled by sea waves over time.

Batu Luang and surrounding pebbles covered by green algae

The most intriguing rocks are those covered with green algae. These rocks are only present from January to June, the months when monsoon washes away the sand that buries them.

Cool conglomerate near Batu Luang

The conglomerate deposit on rockface and the beach is another highlight of Batu Luang Beach. Conglomerate is made up of rounded pebbles glued together, formed by the lithification of cobble-size rocks and gravel.

The rockface and caves of Batu Luang are unique

To me, the conglomerate cemented with round pebbles looks like dinosaur eggs fossils. This is the first time I see such rock formation in Sabah.

Batu Luang during high tide (with conglomerate rocks in foreground)

The conglomerate is really nice, like a piece of art, so I joked to my friends that I wanted to bring some home. The moment I finished talking, a few rocks fell right in front of me. We have to watch our mouth in the wild, because “something” might be listening. Ok then, I took nothing but photograph.

Mimic the expression of the rock |-O

Tour around Batu Luang

Batu Luang is a public beach, so anyone can go there. It’s safe for children to explore around under the care of adults.

Batu Luang during sunrise

The only problem is the tiny blood-sucking sandfly. Its bite can stay itchy for days. Try to cover as much exposed skin as you can. There are not many sandfly anyway.

Sunset shot at Batu Luang Beach

If weather permits, you can have wonderful picture and welfie moment during sunset.

Beach around Batu Luang

Part of the beach is rocky, so you better wear shoes.

Villagers fishing at Tempurong Beach

There are a few villagers living near to the beach. You might find them catching fishes in the morning.

Children stroll on the beach

At another side of Batu Luang is a vast area of sandy beach. The waves are quite strong, so don’t go too far away from shore.

Family fun at Tempurong Beach and Batu Luang

Beautiful rockface and cave

The old folks say there was used to be a deep cave at Batu Luang in the past, which they believe hidden with a lot of treasures, but the cave has disappeared. You may try your luck there. Just watch out for falling rocks when you explore the caves.

There are many small caves around Batu Luang

The biggest cave at Batu Luang Beach

Exploring the big cave

How to get there

Batu Luang is about 120 Km away from Kota Kinabalu City (KK) and 14 Km away from Kuala Penyu town. Its GPS location is 5.524541, 115.523986 (see Location Map or 3D Street View).

Turtle roundabout before Kuala Penyu town

There is no public transport that reaches Batu Luang, so you have to get a taxi or drive on your own for 2 hours. If you depart from KK, you will reach a roundabout with turtle statues (about 10 Km before Kuala Penyu town). Turn left to the direction of Menumbuk.

Junction to Batu Luang

After 1.5 Km, turn right to the junction with the signs (see photo above) that read “JLN Kasugira BT Luang” and “Selemat Datang ke Kg. Gorowot” (opposite to Rumbia Information Center).

You can see Batu Luang from the road

Then follow the road sign to Tempurung Golden Beach Resort, and you will see Batu Luang at your left after 4 to 5 KM. The place is highly accessible by asphalt road in good condition. You can park your car at the roadside and walk 100 Meters to the beach.

Photos taken in Kuala Penyu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Traditional Food of Kuala Penyu

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Kuala Penyu is a small town in south-west of Sabah, and majority of the population there are Dusun Tatana, Orang Brunei, and Bisaya people. Personally I call Kuala Penyu a “quiet corner” of Sabah because it looks like an ordinary countryside of Sabah, but they do have some special food.

Ambuyat

Ambuyat is a traditional dish of the Bisaya and Orang Brunei in Kuala Penyu district, as well as a popular traditional Sabah cuisine. It is a type of starch extracted from sago palm tree.

Ambuyat with side dishes (bamboo shoot, fishes, shell (tuntul), curry)

This translucent and sticky sago paste is almost tasteless, so the locals usually eat it together with side dishes such as fishes and curry, or dip it in sour sauce or fish soup.

“Chopsticks” of Kuala Penyu

The people of Kuala Penyu use Candas, which looks like Chinese chopsticks but is thinner and made from sago leaf stalk or bamboo stick, to scoop the slimy ambuyat.

Right way to use candas

They twirl the soft ambuyat around the prongs of candas to bite-sized, and then dip it into a sour or hot sauce. That could be a fun experience if you try this food the first time.

Bisaya girls

Ambuyat is one of the staple food in Kuala Penyu. Due to its popularity, some hotels also have ambuyat on their menu, so tourists can try it out. There is a joke that says, “If you are poor, you eat ambuyat at home. If you are rich, you eat it in a hotel.” LOL

Orang Brunei people

Tinimbu Dumpling

With a population of 6,000, Dusun Tatana is a unique indigenous group which is influenced by Chinese culture, because there were groups of China merchants who traded and married the locals in Kuala Penyu more than 250 years ago. For example, they also celebrate Chinese New Year.

Tinimbu dumpling

My first impression of Tinimbu (or Tinimbuh) of Dusun Tatana is – it looks like a miniature version of Chinese dumpling, and I also wonder if they learn this from Chinese in the past. Tinimbu is made from glutinous rice and wrapped in triangular shape by pandan (or bamboo) leaves and tied with lamba vine. Unlike Chinese dumpling, Tinimbu has no filling.

Dusun Tatana from Kuala Penyu. Some of their ancestors may have lineage of Chinese.

Tinimbu is served during occasions such as Chinese New Year. To eat, dip it in coarse sugar and enjoy the aroma of sticky rice and pandan in each bite. I’m sure children like it.

Sago Grubs (Butod)

The last and the least appetizing food is Sago Grub (locally known as Butod), which can be eaten raw or cooked. I have tried both. The live worm tastes like coconut milk and the fried butod is like dry fish skin.

Fried Sago Grubs (Butod)

Though many Sabahans struggle with eating Butod, some people really love it because it improves hair growth, increases sex drive, and reduces obesity. These health benefits are quite powerful motivations to eat sago grub (even if it tastes bad which it doesn’t).

Dusun Tatana food on display during Harvest Festival of Sabah (Kaamatan)

There are still many Kuala Penyu food that are not introduced here. To learn and sample traditional food of Dusun Tatana, you may visit the Kuala Penyu house in KDCA Penampang during Kaamatan Grand Finale (Harvest Festival) on 30 and 31 May every year.

Traditional food of Dusun Tatana people

Or you can try these food in Kuala Penyu homestay. For more information, please contact Dr. Monih Epin (Tel: +60 19-8106786) or Ms Monica Gualin (Tel: +60 13-8517633), the operator of Borneo Kuala Penyu Homestay.

Photos taken in Kuala Penyu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Sago Grub (Butod), the Most Bizarre Food of Borneo

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Known as Butod locally, Sago Grub or Sago Worm is a delicacy, as well as the most disgusting food of Sabah. Junk food always look good, but it does ugly things to your body. Sago Grub is the opposite, it’s an ugly but nutritious food. However, it’s a test of bravery to put this wriggling bug into your mouth.

Edible Sago Grub is the larvae of Sago Palm Weevil

Butod is the larvae of Sago Palm Weevil, a species of snout beetle that consumes sago palm during its infancy. Sago Grub can grow fatter than the little finger and looks like a giant maggot. This creamy yellow color and fat worm is rich in protein and sold at US$0.25 each (RM40 – 45 per Kg), quite expensive, but still a hot selling item in local market.

Sago Palm Weevil (Species: Rhynchophorus ferrugineus olivier), adult of Sago Grub, is also known as Red Palm Weevil, and Asian Palm Weevil. Locals call it Linggaung.

According to Dr. Arthur Chung, an insect expert, adult Sago Palm Weevil is also consumed in Sabah. The rusty red colour adults are usually grilled or roasted, with the hard and spiny parts, and unsavoury guts removed before eating.

Sago grubs grow and feed inside sago palm

The best place to collect sago grubs is in sago palm, as they feed on starchy pith of decaying sago palm tree, before they are mature and transform into beetle after 2 months.

Grub up some sago grubs (Butod) in Sago Palm

Just chop the sago trunk to look for butod in the spongy internal of the palm. Farmers also deliberately cut some opening on fallen sago tree, to attract female weevils to lay eggs inside. They could harvest up to 100 butod per trunk after 1 to 3 months.

Cleaning sago grubs before cooking them

Sago Grub is white. I notice it’ll turn yellowish or brownish after being exposed to ultraviolet. Sago grubs can die fairly quick under direct sunlight and dry place. Keep them in shade, preferably with pieces of damp sago wood, and they can survive for a few days.

Sago grub is a healthy source of protein and fiber.

Sago Palm is an important crop of Sabah. Sago Grub is supposed to be a pest because it burrows and eats voraciously into the heart of sago palm, and cause the tree dies. However, sago grub is a highly sought after food that brings good money. You can see the statue of Sago Palm Weevil at the entrance of Rumbia Information Centre. There is no other insect in Sabah that is “commemorated” by such a big statue.

Statue of Snout Beetle / Weevil at Rumbia Information Center

In Sabah, though everyone knows about Sago Grub, not many are actually eating this soft-bodied larvae. Bugs seem to be doing filthy things all the time. Just look at fly and cockroach that make people sick. So it might be a bad idea to eat bugs. Anyway, sago grub is very clean because it only feeds on and live inside sago pith.

Sago grubs make tunnels and feed on decaying pith tissues of the sago palm

According to what I read on the Internet, sago grubs have been described as creamy tasting when raw, and like bacon or meat when cooked. I wanted to try out the live and cooked sago grubs and see if it is true. Now I can tell you that the taste of both is not bad, and I can assure you that sago grub has no funny smell or taste. No, it doesn’t taste like chicken.

Are you dare to eat this?

Tasting Live Sago Grub

Every human has insectophobia to some degrees. We can’t never be friends with bugs. Even if I love to photograph bug, that doesn’t mean I want to lick it. Anyhow, I always want to experience eating live sago grub at least once. Probably I think this is a big achievement as high as the Medal of Honor.

It’s me first time eating live sago grub

To eat live sago grub, hold its head with two fingers, because you won’t eat its hard chitinous head, and to avoid its pincer biting you. I squeeze its head to kill it first, so it won’t wriggle in my mouth later and to suffer from a painful death. Then I take a bite at its neck and chew. You can watch the following video if you want to see action:

In first bite, the juicy worm “bursts” in my mouth, and I can feel its creamy gut flows all over my tongue. OMG, that’s so gross! I just try not to think that I’m eating a bug, or I would throw up. The taste of raw butod is like coconut milk with a bit of sweetness. The skin is tough and chewy. Though I don’t think that it’s delicious, the taste isn’t terrible at all. In fact, it’s quite bland.

Cooking Sago Grubs

Swallowing squirming sago grubs may look way too savage. No problem. You can fry, boil, or grill it, then eat it with knife and fork. Personally I think cooked butod tastes much better. It’s so easy to cook butod. You will know how after watching the video below:

According to a research by Oxford University, Sago Grub contains significantly more vitamins, unsaturated fat, and minerals, but much less cholesterol than other common meat such as chicken and beef. Therefore, Butod is an excellent alternative source of protein.

Washing the sago grubs before cooking them. Female butod is bigger and darker in color

The simplest way to cook sago grubs is to stir-fry them in a pan, until they are totally dry and turn crispy. The first step is to wash and clean the butod with water.

Cut an opening on sago grub. (sorry about the animal cruelty)

Next step is quite cruel. You tear an opening on their bodies, with finger or knife, so they won’t expand and “explode” while being fried. The yellow soft stuff gushes from the cut is the fat. Butod is packed with oil like a natural energy bars. The locals believe butod oil can thicken their hair.

Pan-fried the sago grubs

Then pour all the butod into the pan and stir fry them slowly with small fire. For better flavor, you may add a pinch of salt or MSG. If you think that is too plain, you can cook them with onions or other vegetables, basically it’s same as how you cook other meat.

All the oil is from the plump sago grubs

Do you see the oil in the photo above? It’s all from the sago grubs! The smoke smells really, really good and appetizing, like butter.

Fully cooked Sago Grubs (probably a bit overcooked…)

Researchers describe insects as “micro-livestock” that emits 10 times less greenhouse gas than farting cows. The author of “Bug Chef Extraordinaire”, David George Gordon, says, “Insects are the most valuable, underused and delicious animals in the world.” Eating bugs comes with hundreds of benefits, but people don’t eat bugs for only one reason, it is disgusting. Well, I can give men a superb reason to eat Butod. It’s good for men. *wink wink* If eaten together with patiukan (honeycombs) and tapai (Sabah rice wine), man will certainly experience an incredible aphrodisiacal erection, according to John Seet, the author of The Beliefs & Practices of the Kadazandusun-Murut (ISBN 978-0-7393-8358-2).

Fried sago grubs go well with beer

After stir-fried, the butod becomes crispy and taste like fried fish skin, with a hint of prawn, quite nice. It goes well with beer. Dipping it with a bit of cheese would make it more yummy (I haven’t tried that though).

Sago Festival

If you are interested in munching some sago grubs, you may visit Sago Festival (Pesta Rumbia in local language), which is held in Kuala Penyu annually.

Sago grubs to be cooked

During the festival, the ticket for Sago Buffet is available for a few bucks only. Buy one and you can try different kinds of sago food, which includes cooked sago grubs.

Cooking Sago Grubs (Butod)

Sago Grubs served in Sago Festival

Tourists trying out Sago Grubs (Butod)

There are many tourists who are keen to try sago grubs. The ticket is always sold out fast.

Sago Grub Satay

Sago grub is also widely eaten by people of Sarawak, Southeast Asian countries, and Papua New Guinea. Sago grubs are commonly sold in weekly open air market (Tamu) in rural area of Sabah.

Children learn about sago grubs

However, whenever I want to share butod with my friends, 9 out of 10 them would run away, and one passes out. Actually most Sabahans haven’t tried this delicacy yet. Hope the young generations will be educated that butod is great stuff and nobody should be afraid of eating it.

Butod Products

As one of the Four Asian Tigers, Thailand is far ahead in food industry. You can buy butod in package and tin from their supermarket and even order them online! Here are some product shots for your viewing pleasure.

Salted Sago Worms. Photo by www.thailandunique.com

Yes, you can eat worms like snack. Do share with your friends!

Edible Sago Worm Larvae (BBQ Flavour). Photo by www.thailandunique.com

Let’s open a can of worms, shall we?

Nom Nom… Chocolate Coated Sago Worms. A great gift for Valentine’s Day? Photo by www.thailandunique.com

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Rumbia Information Center, all about Sago

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Do you know certain trees are “edible”? You may have tasted it too, for example, the tiny jello-like balls in famous Malaysian dessert, Bo-Bo Cha-Cha (or Bubur Cha-Cha) is from Sago Palm, an important crop for people living in south-west of Sabah. Sago is known as Rumbia locally and a kind of starch that is extracted from the sago palm.

Sago palms

In Sabah, sago palm was once planted extensively in the wetlands of the west coast like Beaufort, Kuala Penyu, Papar and Penampang. However, the scale is getting small now because rice has replaced sago as the main source of carbohydrate.

Rumbia Information Center / Sago Information Center

Sago palm is also called the “Tree of a Thousand Uses”. If you are on a tour to Klias or Pulau Tiga Island, you may drop by the Rumbia Information Center (Sago Information Center, or Pusat Informasi Rumbia in Malaysian language) near Kuala Penyu town.

Statues of sago worker (left) and sago grub (right) at Rumbia Information Center

You can check out the 4-hectare sago plantation in the Center on a boardwalk. The signage, labels and information at the Center are displayed or presented in both Malay and English languages.

Sago palm can reach up to 10 to 13 Meters tall

If you are lost in jungle, finding a sago palm can save your life. Sago is almost pure carbohydrate, an energy food which also contains a bit of protein, vitamins, and minerals. One palm can yield more than 50 Kg of starch, which yields 355 calories for every 100g, and its leaves and trunk are great materials to make tools and shelter! During WWII, the locals survived from starvation by eating sago.

Sago Exhibition Hall

The exhibition hall is the first highlight of the Center. Besides reading information about Sago, you also can see variety of handmade handicrafts made of sago leaves, bark and stem.

Watching video about sago

In the audio-visual room, visitors can watch a 30-min video that introduces the uses, processing and story of sago. The narrative is in Malay language but English subtitles are shown.

Visitors can learn more about sago in Rumbia Information Center

Over 50 handicrafts are on display. Most items are baskets, utensils, containers, mat, hats, fishing net, farming tools, etc. and some items are made of coconut leaves, bamboo and rattan. They are not so common nowadays, because plastic stuffs are more readily available.

Exhibition about Sago and ecology in Beaufort

In addition to sago, there are many information panels and photographs about the wetland ecology and wildlife in Klias Peninsular.

Beautiful handicrafts in Sago Information Center

The hall is air-conditioned. Depending on your level of interest, a tour in Rumbia Information Center usually takes only one or two hours.

Exhibition hall of Sago Information Center

The craftsmanship is so fine that I want to buy them all (a few items are available for purchase). I think they are made by Dusun Tatana, Bisaya and Orang Brunei tribes live in Kuala Penyu district.

Various handicrafts made of sago materials

Sago Information Center isn’t a well-known tourist spot, so you (or your group) would be the only visitor most of the time.

You may watch the 1.5-min video below about Sago Exhibition:

The Legend of Sago

I heard a sad story about the origin of sago during my visit. During old days in Kuala Penyu, there was a woman who could feed her family very well. Even though food was scarce, she was able to bring home food every day. Her husband was suspicious and decided to stalk her one day. He saw his wife placed a nyiru (straw colander) on the ground and started shaking her sarong. Then many small white pellets dropped from her body to the nyiru and that’s the stuff he ate. He was so furious and accused his wife of feeding him nasi kangkang (literally means crotch rice), which is a black magic used by women, in urban legend, who mix the rice with their menstrual blood, and believe that their husband will be subservient to the wives after eating it.

Two species of sago palm, without thorn (left) or with thorn (right)

Knowing that her husband would kill her, the woman begged her husband to cut her body at waist level into half, and bury them in different spots. After some times, a nypa-like tree with smooth bark grew at the spot where her upper part was buried. And a similar tree, but with thorns, grew on another spot. Both are sago palms that produce sago and are scientifically known as matroxylon sagus (no thorn) and metroxylon rumphii (with thorns) respectively.

Sago Food

At this point, you would ask, “How to ‘eat’ sago tree then? Do you cut down the tree, chop it and bite it?”

Sago Processing

NO!!!! The starch needs to be extracted from sago stem first. After cutting down the sago palm, the farmers will remove the outer hard skin and process the spongy center of the trunk. Then they crush the stem with a wooden board (garus) full of nails in sawing movement, to break the pith into smaller pieces.

Sago processing by garus saw
Another tool to break down sago palm into chips

Next step they will collect the sago pieces and lay them on a mat which acts as a filter. A worker will pour water on sago pieces, continuously kneading them with feet, the starchy liquid will flow into a container. The starch powder will be collected after drying the water.

Sago processing with traditional method

The traditional method is very labor intensive and time-consuming. Nowadays, electrical sago processing machine can grate, filter and collect the sago starch. You can see this machine demo in Sago Information Center.


Modern machine for sago processing

The starch from sago can be used for making different kinds of delicious food such as cake, dessert, biscuit and pudding. Sago flour can be used similarly to other types of flour. It is used in baking bread and pancake too.

Sago starch powder can be stored for weeks or months (but usually consumed within days).

In Sabah, sago starch is mixed with boiling water to make the popular local cuisine called the Ambuyat, a traditional way to enjoy sago. Usually locals eat it with fishes and soup, which go well with smooth texture of ambuyat.

Serving ambuyat with traditional dishes

Sago Grubs (Butod)

Sago grub (Local Name: Butod) is a “byproduct” of sago cultivation. Beetles also know the richness of carbohydrates in sago stem, and their babies (larva) grow so fat eating sago. When farmers harvest sago, they collect these juicy worms as food too. You can even eat it raw if you dare.

Sago grub (locally known as Butod) is a delicacy

You may read this article about eating sago worm as delicacy. Sago grub is not cheap though, each is sold for RM1.00 and it’s a hot selling item in native market.

Sago Festival (Pesta Rumbia)

So, are you drooling? You can sample different kind of exotic sago food (include worms) and dishes during Sago Festival (known as Pesta Rumbia in local language) in Kuala Penyu for a few dollars only. This sago buffet is very popular. The tickets sold out fast, so don’t miss it.

The buffet booth for Sago food tasting in Sago Festival (Pesta Rumbia) of Kuala Penyu

Sago is so important to the local community that Kuala Penyu celebrates Sago Festival annually (usually in July). You may find out the date of this biggest cultural event in Kuala Penyu in Sabah Tourism website.

Making Ambuyat, a sago paste with semi-transparent and glue-like texture

Sago is normally sold in the shape of very tiny, colorful balls called sago pearls. When soaked and cooked, the pearls become larger, translucent, soft and spongy.

Cake made of sago

Sago palm can grow very fast (about 1.5 Meters per year) so it is ideal as an alternative staple food.

Dessert made of sago (white stuff)

Sago palm takes 9 to 12 years to mature. You must cut it down before it starts to flower for 2 months, otherwise the fruiting will exhaust the starch and then the tree dies.

Making roof with sago fronds

It’s all about sago during Sago Festival, you can check out exhibition, sago food buffet, Sago Beauty Queen Pageant, cultural shows, handicraft making demonstration, sago processing, games, etc.

House made of sago trunks. Isn’t it beautiful?

Entrance Fee & Opening Hours

Rumbia Information Center is managed by district office of Sabah Forestry Department in Beaufort. Apart from providing basic information on sago, it is also open to public as a tourist destination. The following is the ticket price to enter the Center (rates as of Mar 2016):

AdultChild
MalaysianRM5RM3
Non-MalaysianRM15 (≈US$3.75)RM7 (≈US$1.75)

Walk-in visitor is welcome. You also can organize a group tour with the Center. Their staff can give you an interpretation walk and education tour for better experience. You can even try eating the live Sago Grub. You are advised to inform them a few days prior to your group trip.

Education tour in Sago Information Center

Below is the opening hours of Rumbia Information Center:
Mon-Thu, Sat, Sun, Public Holidays: 9am – 12pm, 2pm – 4:30pm
Fri: 9am – 11:30am, 2pm – 4:30pm

Contact

Tel: +60 87-897073
E-mail: rumbiainfocentre@gmail.com
Facebook: RumbiaInformationCentre
Address: Pusat Informasi Rumbia, Kompleks Perhutanan Kimanis, KM 61, Lebuhraya KK-Beaufort, Sabah, Malaysia
GPS Coordinates: 5.496861, 115.543920 (see Location Map or Street View)

Facilities

Besides exhibition hall and boardwalk through sago palms, Rumbia Information Center has other amenities and services such as conference room for rent, food catering and laundry.

Toilet (left) and signage of Sago Information Center

The toilet is quite clean. Overall, this Center is quite tourist-friendly. Their staffs are very helpful and friendly too (can speak and understand simple English).

Cafe in Sago Information Center

The cafes there don’t sell or cook sago grubs. If you want to have a butod feast, you need to arrange with the Center at least 1 day in advance.

Orchid Rest House, the accommodation in Sago Information Center. The Check-in / Check-Out time is 12pm

Accommodation is available in the Center and named as Orchid Rest House (Rumah Rehat Orkid) suitable for family or student group. The house has two rooms, each room has two double decker bunk beds to host 4 people. The rest house is complete with kitchen (with cooking gas and utensils), toilet, air-conditioning, fan, parking, dining table, and living room. The accommodation can be rented as RM400 (≈US$100) per day for whole resthouse, RM160 (≈US$40) per room per day, or RM40 (≈US$10) per person per day. You can call Mr. Hillary at +60 13-5462717 for booking (or ordering Sago Grubs).

How to get there

Rumbia Information Center is located next to Menumbok – Kuala Penyu highway at Kampung Kasugira (Kasugira village), about 114 KM away from Kota Kinabalu city (KK). When you reach the roundabout (which has turtle statues on it) about 10 KM before Kuala Penyu town, take the junction to Menumbok. After 1.5 KM, you will see Rumbia Information Center at your left (see Location Map or Street View).

Entrance of Sago Information Center. Note statues of sago palm at the left and beetle next to it.

If you depart from KK, the road trip will take approximately 3 hours on asphalt road in good condition. You also can take a bus that heads to Menumbok, but to return to KK, you have to take a bus to Beaufort town first, then get another bus from there, quite troublesome. Taxi is a better choice if you have more money.

Photos taken in Kuala Penyu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Mud Volcano in Kuala Penyu

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Real volcano is intimidating, but mud volcano is intriguing. Mud volcano is formed when natural gas builds up enough pressure in the earth’s crust to push mud, water and gases to the surface. It is found in many locations on earth and even on planet Mars.

The location of mud volcano in Kuala Penyu

Sometimes mud volcano can emerge at unexpected places. One of them is located on a knoll 5 Kilometers away from Kuala Penyu town (see Location Map), and believed to be connected to the same mud volcanic network of Pulau Tiga Island 18 Km away, an island created by mud volcano.

Burping mud volcano in the pond. About 86% of the gas released from mud volcano is combustible methane.

Though producing no lava, mud volcano looks like a miniature version of true igneous volcano, a little wonder of nature. Last month the operator of Borneo Kuala Penyu Homestay in Kuala Penyu brought me and other guests to an active mud volcano in Bakung. After 5 minutes of driving on tar road near Kuala Penyu, we turned to a junction with narrow countryside road that led us to a plantation half a Km away.

The following video shows you what we did with mud volcano:

We got off our cars and walked 30 Metres to a pond which is surrounded by trees and shrubs. I looked around but saw no volcano. Dr. Monih, our host pointed to the pond and said , “See the bubbling in the pond? It’s from the mud volcano.” Apparently the mud volcano is under the water.

The pond where mud volcano hidden

According to the land owner, this mud volcano has existed since 1960s, and the pond seldom goes dry even during drought. This oval-shaped pond is about 35 x 10 Metres in size and doesn’t seem to connect to any water source such as river. Probably the water is coming from the mud volcano.

This mud volcano was discovered in 1960s

Then Dr. Monih asked a worker to scoop some mud from the pond. “Rub this mud on your face, and you will become beautiful,” he said.

Apply this on your face. It’s Free LOL

He wasn’t kidding (though he laughed). This mud is rich in natural minerals that are good for skin and promote good complexion. People also believe it can soothe irritated skin and even cure psoriasis. A bath in mud volcano would heal some ailments such as rheumatism.

Applying volcano mud on the face

Even guys are crazy about mud SPA

From what I read in a few research papers, mud from mud volcano consists of high concentration of Iron, Magnesium, Sodium, Calcium, and Potassium. Wildlife loves to visit mud volcano for “salt lick”, to get essential mineral nutrients for their bodies, just like human taking vitamin pills as supplment.

This pond never goes dry even during drought

Mud volcano acts as “window” to see what are deep underground because it can transport gas, liquid, and solid particles from depths of several kilometres up to the surface. Therefore, it’s no surprise that the mud might consist of rare earth materials useful for a mud therapy.

Collecting volcano mud

The fresh mud is fine-grained clay in dark gray color. Perhaps the mud is from the pond, so it smells like decomposed organic substances of peat. I just applied some mud on my hands for fun. The mud is neither cool nor warm.

Volcano mud is rich in minerals

Some guests decide to take some mud back home. Sometimes mud volcano would give people more than mud. It is often associated with petroleum deposits. Therefore, if a mud volcano pop-up in your backyard, do celebrate.

Take away as much mud as you want

To see this mud volcano in private land, you can call Dr. Monih Epin (Tel: +60 19-8106786) or Ms Monica Gualin (Tel: +60 13-8517633), the operator of Borneo Kuala Penyu Homestay to arrange a visit (fee may apply).

Papaya trees

We saw a few yellow papaya not far away from the mud volcano. At first I thought the fruit turned yellow because of malnutrition. Then they told me that it’s only found in Sawangan of Kuala Penyu (probably a mutant caused by soil of mud volcano?).

Yellow papaya in Kuala Penyu

Green Vs Yellow papaya

However, I didn’t give it a try *regret*. According to Dr. Monih, it is really sweet.

Yellow papaya

Other Mud Volcanoes of Sabah:

Photos taken in Kuala Penyu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Healing Well of Kuala Penyu

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Whenever you visit a new place in Sabah, especially in countryside, ask the locals. They would share some interesting stories or legend about their village. For Kampung Tempurong (Tempurong Village) in Kuala Penyu, I was excited to know this village has a healing well that still exists.

The healing well is not far from the road

Kampung Tempurong is about 15 KM away from Kuala Penyu town, and the healing well is next to Jalan Kekapor – Temporong. Its GPS Coordinates is 5.529614, 115.533864 (see Location Map or Street View).

Healing Well of Kuala Penyu

When the village was hit by drought about a hundred years ago, an Arabian prophet came and asked the villagers to dig a well at this location. This well provided enough fresh water for the whole village.

You can drink or take shower with this water

The well never dries up even during drought season. Even if people emptied the well, it would be filled with water again in next day. The villagers had been using this well before tap water is available.

This well was the main water source for villagers before tap water is available

The people also believe that by drinking or taking shower with water from this well, any sickness will be healed. A local said a villager cured his children who were used to have asthma with water from this well.

Villagers believe the water from this healing well can cure various kinds of sickness

The Healing Well is accessible by public and not fenced, so anyone can go there to collect water as they wish. Just be respectful and keep the area clean.

The Healing Well never goes dry

I was told that I can drink the water from this well unboiled. To be honest, the water is murky, so I didn’t dare to try. Probably next time.

Reflection of me in the well

Even the origin of the name of Kampung Tempurong has a story. The village of “Tempurong” (means Coconut Shell in Malay words) was initially called Tanah Merah (means Red Soil literally). In 1800s, a villager found a coconut shell at the seashore, and it’s engraved with holy verses of the Al-Quran. The village took it as a sign from God and unanimously agreed to change the name of the village to Tempurong, because they believed this would bring good fortune to the villagers. This place is really blessed by Allah, I think.

Photos taken in Kuala Penyu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo