Category Archives: Food

Wild boar meat

Game Meats (Bushmeat) of Sabah

Sabah is blessed with abundance of wildlife and many enjoy that with their mouths. Consumption of game meat (meat of wildlife) is common here, especially in rural area. In fact, hunting of wildlife (game species) is permitted in unprotected forest, if you get the hunting license from Sabah Wildlife Department (of course you also need license for owning a hunting rifle in first place). Below are some popular game species of Sabah:


The bearded pig is on top of the list. Muslims don’t take pork, so there are still quite a lot of them in the wild. However, the number is comparatively lesser than a few decades ago. In the past, hunters ambushed the wild boars at their migration path and they could see hundreds of wild boars at a time. Today you only can see such marvelous scene in National Geography channel. Due to shrinking and fragmented forest, wild boars venture to villages for food crop, making them more vulnerable to hunting.



Above: wild boar meat for sale at a roadside stall.



Above: wild boar meat for sale at tamu (native open market)

The trading of game meat is a million-dollars business, but not heavily commercialized. The meat is mainly for local consumption and not exported. I tried wild boar meat and it is not really taste better than domesticated pig. Most wild boars are hunted in oil palm plantation, so their meat has unpleasant smell because oil palm fruit is their main diet, some say.


The photos above is Sambar Deer, locally known as Payau, the largest deer species of Sabah.


When I was a little kid, I was used to see them when I was playing in the wood nearby my grandmother house in Kepayan (near Kota Kinabalu International Airport Terminal 1 today).


Above: “Payau” soup


Above: payau (deer) meat sautéed in soy sauce and zesty sliced ginger.
Deer meat is the most well-received game meat, and most Sabahans had tried it at least once. It tastes like a mixture of lamb and pork.


Above is barking deer, locally known as “Kijang”. It is about the size of a dog but its meat is more tender than Sambar Deer.


However, when I saw a poor Kijang being hunted in the wild like photo above, I don’t think I want to eat it again..



Monitor lizard is also part of our menu. It’s so easy to catch them and they are everywhere, in river, drain and even dumpster. People usually “fish” them with chicken intestine as bait. I was told that their meat is good for skin. Well, this reptile eats rotten meat and live in dirty swamp, I would not recommend you to eat such creature which is full of bacteria.


Above: photo of “bakakuk” (home made rifle)
As a matter of fact, even today, villagers living adjacent to a forest usually hunt, just like villagers next to river are usually fishermen. And they have been doing this for centuries and that has become part of their traditional lives. Many own a “home made” rifle. Under Malaysian law, owning an unlicensed rifle is a serious offense and you can be jailed not less than 7 years, or fined more than RM10,000, or both. However, most local authority keeps one eye closed. Occasionally we hear from the news that hunters shot at the moving shadow and killed their buddies by accident.

I once followed a trip in Sabah interior and have the chance to photograph how hunters cook the game. Even clever animals such as mouse deer can’t escape the bullet of hunters. Poor deer..




They removed the fur and cut the meat into pieces, then they cooked the meat in a pot with onion.


When having lunch in a restaurant in remote area, I found a Chinese restaurant that serves variety of wild meat. Besides the usual wild boar and deer dishes, they also cook squirrel and… hmmm.. bat, which I guess might be flying fox (fruit bat).


Above: squirrel waits for its turn to be eaten..


Personally I’m not really fond of eating wildlife, as there is no way I can tell if the meat on my plate is from licensed hunter or illegal poaching. Probably nobody remember that Banteng (a wild cattle called “Tembadau” locally) was once a very common animal in Malaysia. I read a old story of a Borneo hunter who says he can easily find the herd with 100 Banteng. Due to poaching, Banteng is extinct in Peninsular Malaysia since 1950s and Sarawak in 1980s. There are only a few hundreds left in Sabah so they are highly endangered. But there are still bastards who don’t care about this and say Banteng is delicious and is a must-try meat.

Some may say Sabah has thousands square Kilometers of forest and we still have many wildlife. But bigger mammals need about 10 square Kilometers to survive, so our forest is not big enough to host that many wildlife to fulfill the appetite of everyone. Do you know Tapir and Tiger once existed in Sabah thousands years ago? It is the earliest case of extinction caused by hunting.


Above: porcupine meat. The seller said they were trapped by snare in the plantation, not that they hunt them.


Above: snake meat for sale

Just look around us and you will see many overweight people, we are not short of protein supply, so there is no need to turn to wildlife for meat. I don’t want to encourage people to eat wildlife, so I’m sorry that I can’t disclose the locations where you can find those meals.


The only sustainable game meat I can think of is the crocodile meat from crocodile farm. Sandakan Crocodile Farm opens a restaurant that sells Crocodile “Bak Kut Teh” (herb soup). For those of you who are curious how this man-eater tastes like, you can try it at Shen Loong in 1Borneo Hypermall, LOL.



Above: Crocodile meat. Note the fried crocodile egg.


Above: did you see the crocodile claw in the photo?

The crocodile meat is a bit chewy but not bad. No, I don’t work for Shen Loong.. I brought home some crocodile eggs and my mom screamed, “ILL! Throw it away!!!” Haha..

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Crab Fishing

As part of the training in Miki Survival Camp, Mike, our guide, introduces a fun way to fish crabs without hook and fishing line.


All you need is a bamboo stick with split end to hold a pieces of unwanted meat such as chicken skin or fat. Later we learn that earthworm works the best but you need to tie the worm to the string so it won’t break apart.


Then we go to a small stream nearby to fish for crabs. Though we don’t see any crab in the water, we know they are hiding under the rocks and in the holes.


What we need to do is to place the bait near the possible hidden spot of crabs. The crab will be attracted by the bait and come to pinch it. Once you feel the pulling force from the crab, just slowly withdraw the stick.


You will see crab being lured out of the hole, follows the bait and try to get a hold of the meat. Once you are sure that the crab pinches the meat firm enough, you can pull it out of the water.


See! Mike got a greedy and stupid crab! However, it’s not as easy as it looks. I try a few times but the crab escapes. If you fail to fish it in first time, the crab will become cautious and may not dare to hold onto the bait.


Mike and Jimmy got 4 or 5 crabs in less than half an hour. The crabs are in bright orange color, very beautiful but quite small.


All freshwater crabs in Sabah are edible. Mike cooked these crabs with oyster sauce. The smell is so nice. The meat tastes good too though it’s not much.


Gontong, our dog, also enjoys the crab shells left over by us, so funny.

You may watch the 90-sec video of crab fishing below:

Related posts:
Miki Survival Camp
Fishing for ??? (guess!) in Kuala Penyu beach

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

BBQ Fishes of Sim-Sim Market

My mouth was watering when I wrote this. BBQ Fish (“Ikan Bakar” in Malay language, means BBQ Fish), in Sim-Sim Pasar (market), only a few KM away from Sandakan town, is probably one of the “must-try” food for people who come to Sandakan, and everyone who had tried it always give a thumb-up and come back again. It is a sin if I don’t share this with you.


Pic: BBQ fresh seafood. They use charcoal so the grilled fishes have appetizing aroma.

The location map of Sim-Sim market:

View My Sabah Map in a larger map


Pic: Sim-Sim Pasar (Market)
Sim-Sim Market is open from 8am to 10pm daily.


Pic: dining area inside the market

Even in afternoon and at night, Sim-Sim Pasar is still a busy place coz of its famous tasty BBQ fish. There are a few stalls selling this food and many local people queue up and pick the fish they want. You just choose your fish and they will BBQ it over the charcoal for you on the spot. Depends on your liking, you may have something such as whole fish, fish tail, fish head and even BBQ shrimps.


Pic: food menu with price list. (USD1 = RM3 in Malaysian currency)
Translation: RM (currency Ringgit Malaysia), Kecil (Small), Sederhana (Medium), Besar (Big), XL (Extra Large), Ikan (Fish), Kelapa (Coconut)

Note the BBQ fishes served with red sauce below, a recipe in Indonesia Bugis style.


Pic: BBQ Sapi-Sapi fish, RM8 each


Pic: BBQ Trigger fish, RM10 each


Pic: BBQ squid for RM10


Depending on the size of the fish you order, the price ranges from RM5 – RM28 (USD1.70 – USD9.30). The great thing is – white rice and vegetables are included. No cut-throat 3-digit price there, unlike other seafood restaurants that show you the eye-popping bill after a happy meal.

Sabah is famous for its seafood and the secrets of nice seafood is fresh, fresh, and fresh! They use bigger fishes and apply special sauce on the them during the BBQ. It looks yellow and I don’t know what it is, may be some spices that makes the fishes so tasty, in addition to the BBQ aroma.

Spoon and fork are not given unless you ask. Try eating it with your bare hands is a more enjoyable experience. Rice is provided. For tourists who are not used to eating rice, you need to be careful with the fish bones. Just don’t chew rice and fish in your mouth at the same time.

After the BBQ, the fish skin is harden a bit and hold the “juice” in the meat, so it doesn’t taste dry. I love spicy stuffs, so I always dip the meat in “sambal belacan”, a very hot shrimp paste. This further wet my appepite that I can eat 2 more plates of rice. Life is so beautiful with mouthful of fresh seafood.


Pic: BBQ chicken and shrimps are also available.

You are dripping now, aren’t you?

Photos taken in Sandakan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Bongawan town

Bongawan is about 70 KM away from Kota Kinabalu (KK), located between Kimanis and Beaufort. On the way to Beaufort, when you see a gambus musical instrument in the roundabout, just take a right turn. Most of the population here are Orang Brunei. I went to Bongawan on Saturday when they have tamu (open market), coz that’s where you can tell a lot about the locals by looking at what they sell and what they eat.


Click Here to see more photos of Bongawan town >>

Actually I didn’t know what to expect in Bongawan, as very little is known about this place. My presence soon attracted a lot of attention, probably due to the camera that I was carrying. I walked in tamu, pretending I was a tourist and thought they would lose interest in couple of minutes. I was wrong. They greeted me warmly and learnt about my purpose. One of the hawker even gave me a free “cap-kuih”, a fried bread with very crispy skin, soft and creamy inside. I also tried the “Bachal”, a rojak-like (mixed vegetables) food wrapped in banana leaf.

The people are friendly but a bit camera-shy. When I took their photos, their friends will tease them. When it was their turn, others would laugh back. A young Orang Brunei girl even can speak Chinese.


Click Here to see more photos of Bongawan town >>

When I was walking around, a few locals kept on pointing at a old wooden building, trying to show me the feature of the town. It is (see below) a pre-war shophouse built in British colony time. A senior local says this 10-shop building is a mix of 1922 and 1939 shop joined together, though there is a year stamp “1939” on it.

Kimanis and Membakut also have this kind of building but look newer. Fire has destroyed some post-war building in Tamparuli and Beaufort. Once this historical heritage is gone, it will be replaced by cement structure (which would last less than 20 years by the standard of Sabah developers).

Below is a photo of 1950 post-war building, just in front of the 1939 shophouse. The shops in ground floor are usually sell food or grocery stores. The first floor is family house.

Bongawan was once a heavily guided town of Japanese during World War 2 coz Beaufort railway was the key transport centre. I was trying to know more about the Japanese occupation from a 80-year old local. He said everyone was hiding in the wood, and there was a massacre happened in Kota Belud but the bodies could not be found.

A local let me visited the kitchen inside the 1939 building. Besides tap water, there was a well behind the shop. The toilet has no toilet bowl, and you only see a small hole at the bottom. It makes me feeling uneasy to pee to the ground. Frankly, it was quite fun coz I didn’t need to aim, haha…


Click Here to see more photos of Bongawan town >>

Kopi-O Ping (ice coffee) costs how much in KK? RM1.80 per glass right? A bottle of ice coffee is only RM1.40 in Bongawan! They fill the coffee in used Tiger / Carlsberg beer bottle then cold it in refrigerator. The glass bottle allows the thorough cooling of coffee, and the ice coffee has been served like this for at least 20 years. So far I only find such”featured drink” in Bongawan.


Click Here to see more photos of Bongawan town >>

Besides the town itself, I also checked out the Kopi-O+Teh-C (coffee + milk tea) rivers in Ulu Bongawan, a village and plantation region 1.5 KM away from town. When the brackish river flows into the brown river, it looks like milk tea special. Too bad it is not big enough, otherwise it can be one of the 7 wonders in Sabah. Bongawan beach, about 2.5 KM away, is also a nice and white sandy beach to hang around.

I wonder what will happen to the old shophouses in the future. Hopefully the government will preserve them. I will come back again many years later to see if they will vanish under development…

Photos taken in Bongawan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Magic Fruit No.2

Last time I blogged about a magic fruit that is sour, but turns sweet after you rub it in the hand. Last week I was introduced another kind of magic fruit in a Tenom plantation.

This magic fruit becomes bright red when it is rippen, much like a very fat chilli in oval shape.

For a magical moment, just chew it. The seed is big and the taste is sour. But when you put anything sour such as lemon and mangga in your mouth, it will taste sweet.Perhaps there is any chemical substance that turns fruit acid into sugar. An interesting experience anyway.

Goodness my fingers look so long when I am slim. It also reminds me that it’s time to cut my nails… 😛

Related Post:
Magic Fruit

Photos taken in Tenom, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Magic Fruit

I forgot the name of this fruit that was planted in Balung Eco-Resort. We call it “Magic Fruit.” It is like a very ordinary fruit.

Even though it turns into scarlet color when rippen, which looks like sweet grape, it tastes sour and bitten.

Just place it between your palm and rub it back and forth gently for a short while. Then taste it again and it will taste sweet!

Related Post:
Magic Fruit No.2

Photos taken in Tawau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Mari-Mari Cultural Village

“Mari-Mari” means Come Come in Malay. This new cultural village is located in Kionsam of Inanam and received many positive feedback from tourists. There are five indigenous houses in the village for you to see how Sabah ethnic groups, i.e., Murut, Bajau, Dusun, Rungus and Lundayeh lived in their past. The air there is fresh, maybe the village is inside the forest and next to Kionsam River.


Above: tourists try Lihing the local rice wine


Above: experience traditional Bajau mock wedding

Tourists are presented the traditional way of bamboo cooking, rope making, tree bark processing (for making Murut’s cloth), blowpipe making, etc. You also can try out the traditional food and even experience their activities such as blowing blowpipe and smoking local cigarette.


Above: trying lansaran (wooden trampoline) in Murut headhunter longhouse

The guide will bring you to visit each houses and explain the ancient lifestyle. Some “staircases” are quite steep. As a local, I find that I know so little about our cultures. At the end of the tour, you can enjoy the performance of traditional dances and lunch after that.


Above: watch out for chicken dropping above your head

You may try the local cigarette. My grandmothers likes to make her own cigarette by rolling tobacco into dry leaf. The taste is light and not as strong as commercial cigarettes, though it has no filter.


Above: starting fire with bare hands and bamboo in less than a minute


Above: guests are invited to try bamboo dance

The most interesting part for tourists is probably getting a tattoo. They demo the traditional method to create a tattoo.

Then visitors also can ask them to tattoo a favourite figure on their skin. They use something creamy to draw the tattoo and it will leave a stain that can last for a few days (not permanent). Not sure if you can ask them to draw tortoise on your arm.

Besides Mari-Mari, Monsopiad Cultural Village in Penampang also offers the similar things. If you ask me which one I like better, it is hard to answer coz both have its uniqueness. The best of Monsopiad is its House of Skulls, a real historic heritage, but Mari-Mari gets better cultural experience. FYI, Mari-Mari does not take walk-in tourists, so you need to book the tour in advance.

Photos taken in Inanam, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Top 10 Food of Sabah

Below is the list of Top 10 Food in Sabah that you should try. Most locals would recommend you these too. You can click the food name to see the detail. I link to some restaurants for introduction purpose only. This list is not meant to be associated with any food outlet.

Your vote and comment will perfect the list, so please feel free to contribute to this open list.

[listly id=”2AE” layout=”full”]

You are welcome to add new item to this list too. However, please allow me to remove item that is irrelevant or unfit for this category. Please do not add any restaurant, drink and snack to this list. Thank You~

Other Sabah’s Top 10