Tag Archives: history

Bonding with Gaya Street

Bonding with Gaya Street, the heritage street of Sabah

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Try to tell the youngsters about your past, and you will see the “WTF, here he comes again…” impatient expression on their faces. However, everyone did want to hear about your stories in Gaya Street last weekends (11-12 Feb).


Not only that, the TV media also interviewed the people about their stories.


All these excitement are the outcome of the “Bonding with Gaya Street” event, which is a community heritage exhibition that features old buildings, old-time stories, cultures and social history about Gaya Street, which is known as Bond Street during British colony era. Gaya Street is chosen for the event because it is where Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu (KK), capital of Sabah) started.


“Sudah lama lor…” (means it’s a long time ago) is the commonest phrase heard during the event. The old photographs of Kota Kinabalu with timeline from 1657 to 1960 attracts locals from all walks of live. Most KK folks have a piece of memory in Gaya Street, so these nostalgic photos bring back their memory. Strangers pointed at the photos and shared with others that what was used to be there and what they had done.


Bonding with Gaya Street is organized by North Borneo History Enthusiasts (NBHE) and Kota Kinabalu City Hall, and supported by Sabah Tourism Board, Information Department, Sabah State Museum, Sabah Archives and Daily Express.


Today Gaya Street is well-known for its Sunday market that is frequented by many tourists, but few knows about its history. After the event, I know that it’s more than a tourist attraction, it is a heritage street rich of history!


My favorite of this event is the display of colorful street art painted on the sun shade canvas, a very welcome enrichment. These are the creative works of professional artists, teachers and students as young as 6-year! You may look at my photo album for bigger photos. Which painting you like by the way?


Above: Nunuk Ragang photo exhibition by Flanegan Bainon.


Above: the volunteers of the event. They have a Collection Booth for old photographs and personal stories in Sen Chong Wah restaurant (新中华) in Gaya Street, if you would like to share yours.


If you go inside this restaurant, you will a beautiful display of Kota Kinabalu’s old-day information on the wall.


Above: a street performance by Julie Sawmundax during the launching. It’s fun to have her around.

You may watch the 3-min video below about the event:


Above: vintage cars


Above: a replica of North Borneo war memorial made of bamboo. The “real” memorial is moved to City Park many years ago.


Many shops in Gaya Street also decorate their doors and windows with nostalgic items such as old photos. Do you see your pretty mom or handsome dad in the photo? LOL.

At first those locals felt suspicious, when the organizer asked them for the old stories and photographs. Once they understood the purposes, they become very supportive to this project.


It’s so cool that some shops were showing the historical photos of their shops 50 or 60 years ago. Gaya Street has become a live museum. Our schools have turned history class into something dry and boring. This might be the first time people, both old and young, think that history is interesting. And these things are not found on our textbook, so we need to document them ASAP before they are gone forever.


Above: proud of the history. Sen Chong Wah restaurant (新中华) was established since 1945!


Above: this stone on the wall of Syarikat Eng Leong is the most important relic easily overlooked by most. It is laid in 1951 and marks the first row of 17 permanent shophouses of Kota Kinabalu. These traditional shophouses are under threat when big and air-conditioned shopping malls sprout in city nowadays.


Above: built in 1954, Jesselton Hotel is the oldest post-war hotel in Sabah. The famous boxer, Muhammad Ali stayed there before.


Above: the Sabah Tourism building is nearly 100 years old. Locals still call it “old post office”.

In the past, I thought that the historical value of an old building is only from its age, the longer it is, the more precious. Now I think the stories and collective memories are more significant. Without any story, an old building is just an aged structure that has no life and meaning. I hope the social histories of our Gaya Street will be passed on to our new generations.


In conjunction with Bonding with Gaya Street, Hotel 63 held an exhibition about the 107-year-old Atkinson Clock Tower in 1st floor. A coffee-table book titled “Colonial Townships in Sabah: West Coast” is on sale for RM135. Since Richard, the author was there, I bought the book and requested for his autograph. Haha, then the rest also became kiasu and did the same thing. Richard was busy writing but I guess he was also glad that the books were sold like hot cake.


Atkinson Clock Tower is built in 1903 in memory of Francis George Atkinson, the first District Officer of Jesselton. There are many information and old photographs of Atkinson Clock Tower in this exhibition. I’m glad that Malaysians today really care about their history and heritage, like what the Jalan Sultan incident shows.


The highlight is the 8×48 foot graphic mural of the Atkinson Clock Tower. If you look closely, this mural is formed by a large collection of photos.


Above: Atkinson Clock Tower is only a stone throw away from Gaya Street. This oldest structure of Sabah has become an iconic landmark of Kota Kinabalu.

However, Atkinson Clock Tower is under serious threat when a developer proposes to build a 16-storey Commercial Shopping Mall next to it! WTF, there are many damn developers cut all the forest and mangrove to build their housing, then market their property as a nature-rich location. Same to this greedy developer who wants to build a mall next to Atkinson Clock Tower, they are not f*cking care about our heritage. Please do object this project!

More Info:
Official website of Bonding with Gaya Street
North Borneo History Enthusiasts (NBHE), the main organizer

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Photos taken in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Fun ride on North Borneo steam train

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In my childhood, one of the most exciting Christmas gifts I wanted was “choo-choo” steam train toy. Now I was even happier to have a fun ride on a real steam train on the oldest railway (established since 1896) of Borneo last week. Big toy man.. FYI, “North Borneo” is the name of Sabah during British colony time.


Above: the office of North Borneo Railway in Tanjung Aru Train Station

Actually it’s a tour product for tourists to experience the nostalgic romance of riding on a 57-year-old antique steam train. Even though it’s a train, it’s not a public transportation so you MUST book a seat in advance. You may sign up a tour with the company, North Borneo Railway. The fee is MYR290 (≈USD$97) for adult, MYR185 (≈USD$62) for child (3-12 years old). The rates are as of 22 Mar 2013. The steam train runs on every Wednesday and Saturday.


Above: entrance of North Borneo Railway
The North Borneo Railway is in Tanjung Aru Train Station, which is about 5 KM away from Kota Kinabalu, capital of Sabah.


Passengers will be given a “Train Passport” before boarding at 9.30am. It’s only for fun and have some brief introduction about the towns we see along the railway. The train steward will stamp the passport whenever we approach a town. At the end I have 5 stamps on the book.


Above is the route map I copy from the Train Passport. Our steam train departs at 10am from Tanjung Aru and head to Papar town about 40 Kilometers away. Our train passes through the countryside and we see villages, rivers, mangrove, paddy fields, rainforests and plantations on the way. The part our train passing through a 450-Meter Pengalat Tunnel (built by British in early 1900) is also fun. The whole tour takes less than 5 hours.

You may watch the following 3-min video about the train ride:

Click Here for wider video


Above: this steam train is made by Vulcan Foundry Ltd in Newton-le-Willows in Lancashire, United Kingdom in 1955 for North Borneo Railway.


Our steam train is one of the few functional locomotive powered by burning wood. They don’t use coal that produces very fine ash powder which would cause black stains on your shirt. Anyway, you better don’t wear anything white on the train.


The railway service of Borneo is first started by William Clarke Cowie, Managing Director of the British North Borneo Chartered Company in 1896.


The exterior of the steam train is in deep green and cream colors, the original colors used in old days. The windows are open all the time for a more enjoyable experience. However, it’s still a bit warm inside, so I advise you to wear thin T-shirt.


The interior is natural wooded seat and there are cooling by fans. This train has 5 Japanese-designed carriages that have been meticulously restored and renovated to reflect the era of the classical steam train. Very nice ambiance indeed.


The first landmark that we pass by is Petagas War Memorial.


Breakfast (Danish pastries, croissant and tea/coffee) is served onboard.


Passing by water village of Putatan.


We stop at Kinarut town for 20 minutes and visit the Tien Nam Shi Buddhist Temple (镇南寺).


Burning incense sponsored by individual who makes wishes (written on red paper)


Doing tourist stuff…


Back to train and cool ourselves with cold towel.


Above: brick factory in Kawang. Our train travels at a speed of 50 to 60 Kilometer per hour.


Btw, there is a unisex toilet in each carriage for your call of nature.


If you reach Kawang, you should check out the nice view of mangrove forest.


Some souvenir is available for sale on the train. I bought a bookmark.


The train has 5 colonial-period carriages and each can accommodate 16 passengers, with a total train capacity of 80 passengers.


Reaching the steel trestle bridge of Papar.


We stop at Papar town for a 30 minutes of free and easy sightseeing around town. You can check out the old wooden post-war shoplots here.


Old building with air-conditioning, haha, interesting contrast..

Papar is our last stop. Now our steam train needs to turn around so it can head back to Tanjung Aru. Some of us stick around to see how the Pullman carriage detaches and connects to the rear (now rear become front). You may watch the 1-min video below:

Click Here for wider video


Enjoying our lunch on the way back… Guess what we had?


Above: strawberry ice-cream as dessert


We arrived Tanjung Aru Station at 1:40pm. Overall, everything is great. The experience is really fun, the food is nice, the train steward is friendly and the ambiance is excellent. The only thing I can complain is the high price. That’s probably why I didn’t see many faces of locals.

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Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Double Six Gallery, a reminder of painful Sabah history

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Most Sabahans would not forget 6 Jun 1976 the “double-six” day an Australian Nomad aircraft crashed in Sembulan, when it was about to land at the airport in Tanjung Aru on its return from Labuan island. Four of nine Sabah state ministers including chief minister Fuad (Donald) Stephens lost their lives.


To commemorate this tragic air crash, the Double Six Monument was built on the crash site, and there is a memorial service holds here annually on 6 Jun. You may read my previous blog about Double Six Monument.


For those who would like to learn about the history, you may visit the 4,000-sq-feet Double Six Gallery, which costs MYR1.2 Million to build and opened in 2010 near the monument.



Double Six Gallery exhibits pictures, newspaper clips and memorabilia of the untoward event. I saw many life and family photographs of the late ministers. A debris of the crashed plane is on display. Visitors also can watch a 30-min video about the Sabah history and formation of Malaysia. Besides, they have a replica of “Batu Sumpah” (oath stone) of Keningau, which serves as a reminder to Malaysia government what they had promised East Malaysia. One of the promises is freedom of religion. From the happening in recent years, obviously Federal government has lost its memory.


This air-conditioned gallery is managed by Kota Kinabalu City Hall and opens from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. from Tuesday to Friday and 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Saturday, Sunday and public holiday. Note it is close on every Monday. Entrance fee is MYR2 for adult, MYR1 for student, children and senior citizen.


Sorry, I was not allowed to take photo inside, so I only can show you the ticketing counter.

What makes Double Six Tragedy so unforgettable is that not only we lost our beloved leaders who fight for Sabahans, we felt that we were betrayed. No, the tragedy is not a mystery to Sabahans. Only fool believes that’s an accident.

Photos taken in Sembulan, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Petagas War Memorial Garden, bloodiest history of Sabah

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In 1944, just 3 days before the Chinese New Year Eve, villagers of Petagas was awaken by the distant firing of machine gun in a silent morning. In the next 3 days, they still heard cries and groans. They knew something went very wrong but nobody dared to check it out. 176 Kinabalu Guerrillas members were massacred by Japanese army, making 21 Jan 1944 the bloodiest day in Sabah history.


However, these fallen heroes are not forgotten even after more than half a century. 9 KM from Kota Kinabalu city and in front of Kota Kinabalu International Airport terminal 1, a Petagas War Memorial Garden was built on the mass execution site to honour those who defended Sabah during World War II.


Above: under the green grass is where the Kinabalu Guerrillas members and others buried.


Above: monument with names of the victims inscribed on the plaque.


Above: Albert Kwok (郭益南), the leader of Kinabalu Guerrillas.

Albert Kwok was born in Kuching (Sarawak) and studied Chinese medicine in China. He came to Sabah in 1940 and worked as doctor. To resist the iron rules of the Japanese, Albert Kwok organized Kinabalu Guerrillas and took charge as commander-in-chief in 1943. He launched the Double Tenth Revolt with a guerrilla force of 300 men in the eve of 10 Oct 1943. The Japanese was attacked by surprise and more than 60 of them were killed, though the guerrilla was mainly machetes-wielding attackers with very limited firearm. You may click the photo above for more history of Double Tenth Revolt.


Above: Sabah Government and the descendants of the guerrillas hold a memorial ceremony to commemorate the fallen heroes every year on 21 Jan. 20 uniform bodies also send their troops.

Albert Kwok and his Kinabalu Guerrillas managed to take control of Tuaran, Menggatal and Jesselton (former name of Kota Kinabalu). However, being poorly-armed and facing the Japanese reinforcement from Kuching 3 days later, the guerillas were forced to retreat to hills in Menggatal. After two months of fighting, Japanese army threatened to massacre 400 people in Shantung Valley if Albert Kwok refused to surrender. Albert Kwok turned in himself on 19 Dec 1943 and locked in Batu Tiga prison with 400 others. He was executed with other guerrillas members in Petagas at the age of 23.


Above: wreath-laying ceremony is carried out in the annual memorial service. In 2012, I noticed a very beautiful wreath standing quietly behind.


Above: Madam Lim and the wreath given by a Japanese couple.
The father and elder brother of Madam Lim were also killed here. She told this story to a Japanese couple. They felt so sorry that they requested Madam Lim to buy a wreath (cost MYR300!) for the memorial service. Younger generation of Japanese have no idea about the cruelty of their army in World War II. Their textbooks and education rationalize and glorify the war as a holy battle to liberate Asia from western imperialism.


Above: government representatives in Petagas War Memorial service


Above: relatives and descendants of victims.

It must be a painful memory for them even today. The following were the happening on 21 Jan 1944:
1. 176 prisoners transported by 6 covered goods-vans of a train from Batu Tiga prison at 3am.
2. They knew their fate. 3 of them resisted the escort and were slashed to death at prison door by sword.
3. The train arrived Petagas, where deep pits were prepared for them. Some held onto the train and refused to leave. Their fingers & hands were cut off and a few were hang on sliding door.
4. Albert Kwok was beheaded by double-handed sword with 4 other leaders (namely, Charles Peter, Chan Chau Kong, Kong Tze Phui, Lee Tek Phui)
5. The rest was shot by machine gun or bayoneted. Their bodies were dragged, pushed or kicked into the trenches.
6. Some were still alive and village nearby could hear their cries & groans for next 3 days, day & night.

3 days later was the eve of Chinese New Year 1944. It’s already so overwhelming to imagine how they families felt when they looked at the empty seat of the deceased, on the traditional family reunion day. For those who were not executed that day, 131 were sent to Labuan, where they were tortured and humiliated by Japanese in front of people. Only 9 of them survived.


Above: commander of memorial service, nice mustache.

The memorial service starts after 8am. First, 4 guards of honor marches to the monument and stand at 4 sides.


Above: wreath-laying ceremony by different organizations and individuals.

Lastly, the ceremony ended with the sounding of the Last Post and Rouse. You may watch the 2-min video below:


Above: people looking at the plaque containing the names of their relatives. Some of the victims were folks always hang up in kopitiam (coffee shop) together.


There are fathers and sons among the names. Ms Lo says her brother died at age of 17 with his father in this execution.


Lee Min (李明), the 91-year-old survivor of Kinabalu guerilla, always comes every year in honor of his fallen comrades, though his health condition is not ideal and requires the aid of a walking stick. He said, “I miss my friends very much and I will come here every year as long as I live.”


His eldest son, Lee Yaw Koo (right), 61, said his father always pay homage to his fallen comrades each year.


Lee Min can point to the names and tell stories about them, like who was forwarder and who was his captain.


Above: relatives and descendants of fallen heroes


Reporters interview grand daughter (Rachel) of Datuk Fung Khyam Shen (back), 82, from Singapore, whose elder brother Fung Khung Shen was among those killed in the massacre. Datuk Fung said, “I can forgive them but I just can’t forget… I still feel bitter and my family is very sad about the tragedy.”


The father told his daughter about the heroic incident of these people. It’s important to educate the young about the brutality of the war so they won’t repeat the history. Many years ago, I was watching a sad movie about World War II. There was a group of ignorant youngsters smirked and made fun of the movie, as if they were watching a comedy. I don’t blame them for being lack of empathy, because they have no f*cking idea about the history. War is something so distant and unreal to them.


Petagas War Memorial was built in 1946 and the 1st memorial service started in 1948. That year the response was overwhelming. Busloads of people, friends and families of the dead came and they cried and comforted one another. Nowadays, except the relatives and descendants, there are very few people come here to pay tribute. There are many government people but they attend the service for the seek of formality. Hope you will come after you read the story here.

The public should show their appreciation to those who sacrificed their lives for our homeland. FYI, the memorial service starts at 8am in Petagas War Memorial Garden on 21 Jan every year. Funeral attire advised.


Just an interesting story. In 1979, the new war memorial was under construction for an upgrade, and the workers unearthed 5 big jars of human bones. Everyone didn’t know whose bones were those and it became a mystery for a while, until a Tawau bookseller, Peter Chong Yuk Kiong explained that these are the bones of 122 prisoners who died in Labuan. Their bones were collected and sent to Petagas for burial in 1949.

The war monument has a plaque on each side. I posted them here for your viewing:


Side 1: names of the victims (Click Here for bigger picture)

Most are Chinese and the names don’t seem to be in any order. There are also names of islanders consists of Suluk, Bajau and Binadans people from Sulug, Dinawan and Mantanani islands. They also took part in Double Tenth Revolt by launching attack from the sea. After the rebellion, the Japanese army took revenge by burning the houses and gun down most men on those islands. All the adult males on Sulug island had been killed and an 11-year-old boy became headman!


Side 2: epitaph on war monument (Click Here for bigger picture)


Side 3: epitaph in Chinese language (Click Here for bigger picture)


Side 4: epitaph in Malay language (Click Here for bigger picture)

The Japanese officers who responsible for this massacre were convicted in Singapore in 1946. The lieutenant and the sergeant were sentenced to death and were hanged. Others implicated received long sentences of imprisonment.


In Kampung Air of Kota Kinabalu city and next to building of Kota Kinabalu Chinese Chamber Of Commerce & Industry, you can find a street named after Albert Kwok.

Because of Double Tenth Uprising, Japanese abandoned the ideas of conscripting 2,000 Chinese youth into army, to use them as cannon fodder to fight a losing battle against Allies in South-East Asia. They also stopped forcing local women to become comfort women (prostitute) for Japanese soldiers.


Above: for further reading, you may check out: (1) One Crowded Moment of Glory : The Kinabalu Guerillas and the 1943 Jesselton Uprising, written by Danny Wong Tze Ken and published by UM Press (ISBN: 9789674880866) in 2019, Price: RM58, (2) Chinese version of book no.1. 神山游擊隊： 1943年亞庇起義 (ISBN: 978-983-3987-64-1), (3) Kinabalu Guerrillas (An account of the Double Tenth Rising against the Japanese invaders in North Borneo), published by OPUS Publications (ISBN: 978-983-3987-15-3), cost RM20, or (4) 北婆罗洲抗日神山游击队 Chinese version, costs RM39 (ISBN: 978-983-3987-34-4).

Besides old news clip, I also used the first book as a reference for this writing. Please correct me if there is any mistake.

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Photos taken in Petagas, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Linangkit Cultural Village, mysterious past of Lotud people

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Linangkit Cultural Village (LCV) is located in Kampung Selupoh (Selupoh Village) in Tuaran, about 40 minutes drive from Kota Kinabalu. Linangkit is a unique form of needle work and handmade decorative embroidery using interlacing knots. It is used to decorate and join seams by Lotud, who is a sub-ethnic of Kadazandusun and have a population of nearly 10,000, most reside around Tamparuli, Telipok and Tuaran areas.

LCV offers a platform to display the colorful culture and mystical history of Lotud tribe. Lotud is very famous in their skillful weaving, and personally I think their traditional dress is one of the most beautiful and elegant costumes in Sabah. That’s why the Lotud dress is the favorite choice for beauties who compete in the annual Harvest Festival Queen beauty pageant (Unduk Ngadau).


>> Click Here to see more photos of Linangkit Cultural Village

With striking red, gold, silver, white and black colors of the dress, Lotud girls always become the center of attention and most photographed target in any cultural fair.


Same as other indigenous people of Sabah, Lotud people also live in longhouse, but the difference is – each Lotud longhouse only hosts one family. The longhouse in LCV is in fact a “treasure house” with many antique items of Lotud people.

Linangkit Cultural Village (LCV) is open daily from 9am to 6pm for tourists, but you are advised to contact them (Tel: +60 88-787382, Mobile: +6013-8803738 / +6012-8667236 (Mrs. Alice Tee Jilan)) at least 3 hours in advance to make prior arrangement (for guided tour, food, cultural show, etc.).


>> Click Here to see more photos of Linangkit Cultural Village

You may watch the video below to look at the surrounding of LCV.

Click Here to see wider video.

Upon arrival, you will be taken to a traditional Dusun Lotud longhouse, where you could gain better understanding of the culture and the lifestyle of the Lotud. The house has a good collection of ritual tools used by Tantagas, the traditional priestesses of Lotud. Nowadays, many indigenous people are converted to Christians and Muslims, so the mystical practices is gradually fading.

There are many interesting items inside the longhouse. A guide will tell you the story behind each item. Actually, they don’t allow photo taking in exhibition area, so I only list a few here…


For example, the hundred-year-old “Gusi” jars above are for housing the spirits of the ancestors. Lotud would appease them regularly. Many heard strange noise or human voice in the jars at night.


Above: an accessory for warrior. They believe this gives them strength and magical power.


Above: a symbolic ritual tool used by Tantagas as a “torchlight” to see in “other” world.


Above: Lotud was once a headhunter. Each hair cluster means one head.


Above: they have good collection of old decor and items, which remind me of the era of my grandfather.

There are lot more stuffs. I’ll let you to find out there.



Above: they also have the longest linangkit in Malaysia.
>> Click Here to see more photos of Linangkit Cultural Village


By the way, do not forget to chew some betel nuts and smoke the local tobacco, to perfect your cultural adventure.




After the tour in longhouse, depend on your package, they may take you to the activity hall to watch cultural show and enjoy local delicacies.




You will love the delicious food at LCV.
>> Click Here to see more photos of Linangkit Cultural Village

As I am always attracted by pretty Lotud girls, they teach me how to spot a single by looking at their costumes. Look at the photos below. You may flirt with the Lotud girls that wear belt that has no black color (first photo).

But if you see black color in their belt, that means she is not available (see photo below).

Please visit Linangkit Cultural Village to see the most beautiful tribe of Sabah today!


>> Click Here to see more photos of Linangkit Cultural Village

Photos taken in Tuaran, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Long Pasia – Rapid Shooting (part 2 of 6)

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Continued from Part 1…

DAY 2 – AN EVENTFUL DAY

It’s a cold morning in Long Pasia, so cold that all the chicks seek for warmness under the belly of their mother hen. After a heavy breakfast, we got ready for a long trip to Fefukan Waterfall. The journey will start with 3-hour of rapid shooting (river cruise) on Matang River (Sungai Matang) to Lelawid camp, then a 4-5 hours of jungle trekking (about 10 KM).


>> Click Here to see more photos of Long Pasia


Click Here to see bigger video

Rapid Shooting

At 8:30am, we gathered at the riverside next to the village. When I saw our boat transport, I felt apprehensive. It’s a wooden long boat powered by an engine at the rear. To me, it is only a bit better than a bamboo raft and its wobbly body does not instil any confidence at all. For newbie who tries to stand on this boat, there is a 90% chance he will fall into river within 3 minutes. The slightest wrong move seems to be able to capsize this boat.


Above: gather at riverside


>> Click Here to see more photos of Long Pasia

We loaded our backpacks onto the boats then we departed. To keep the boat balance and stable, everyone must sit still in the center. It sounds easy but my butt hurt in long hours of cruising, and I have to shift my weight occasionally (right and left butt haha).

Besides a boatman who controls the engine at the rear, there is a navigator at the front. He will read the river for a safer route and use his long pole to push the boat away from bumping into boulder or to hold the boat in strong current. Only person with strong muscle and balancing skill can handle such tasks.


>> Click Here to see more photos of Long Pasia

It was quite a smooth ride on Matang River. I enjoyed the cool breeze and beautiful riverine forest view along the river. At first I worried that the water would splash my camera, but very soon I took out my camera and started shooting. For birds, I saw egrets, heron and stork-billed kingfisher. The river is a bit murky but cold and clean.


Click Here to see bigger video

As you can see in the video above, later our wooden boat proved that it’s the best river transport. We got around fallen log, went against stream, moved between rocks, and cutting through numerous rapids. There were a few times we had to get into the water and push the boats over shallow river. After 1.5 hour, we stopped briefly at the monument of Prince Henrik from Denmark, who camped there in year 2002.


>> Click Here to see more photos of Long Pasia

Ancient Burial Site

At 11am, we stopped by an ancient burial site next to the river. There are more than 10 “coffin” jars scattered inside the forest. We also found fragment of human skulls and bones. It is a traditional practice for our ancestors to bury the dead inside a big jar, and then they will move the bones into smaller jars. And most of these jars are from China hundred years ago. It is not too hard to tell that the jars are “Made in China” coz some have figure of dragon on them. I am not an expert on antique. I only know jars and ceramics of Ming and Qing Dynasties were widely traded in Borneo in the past.


>> Click Here to see more photos of Long Pasia

Batu Narit – the Love Rock

We went on with our rapid shooting. 15 minutes later, a white boulder caught my attention coz its color looked different from other boulders. And I was right. The guide brought us to the opposite side of this boulder and we saw unusual circular carving on the surface.

Lait told me that according to the carbon dating done by a local university, the age of the carving is about 600 years old. The carving is so smooth that they wonder what kind of tool was being used. Based on the legend of Lundayeh, it is a finger-drawing by Upai Semarin, an ancestor giant with super natural power. Another version is – it was carved by a man who missed his deceased wife, so romantic…


>> Click Here to see more photos of Long Pasia

This boulder seems to have life (or you may call it my superstitious feeling). I touched it and the surface is a bit soft. Personally, I think it is possible to produce such carving if we use wood with rounded-tip to scratch the rock surface persistently. This historical remnant really needs protection coz the algae is slowing eroding the rock face.

Lunch Break

When we were getting closer, there was a rapid almost every 50 Meters. Oh yes, we reached Lelawid, the starting point of our jungle trekking, at 12pm. It is next to a convergence point of two rivers and they lay a fishing net across the river (you will know what we got later).


Above: laying fishing net


>> Click Here to see more photos of Long Pasia

Later we will need to walk about 4 to 5 hours in jungle to Fefukan Waterfall, so we have our lunch at the riverside first. It is like a picnic, so fun. We had some Long Pasia rice, with curry and hot dog. What I like the most is the small and salty “Ikan Sawah” fish. It’s so soft that you can eat its bone.


Above: Long Pasia rice with salty Ikan Sawah fishes

At last, the toughest activity of the trip is about to start… We will walk to the Fefukan Waterfall campsite.


Above: get ready for jungle trekking

>> Read Next Article (Part 3)

Photos taken in Long Pasia, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

First Malaysia Day Celebration

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Malaysia gains its independence on 31 August 1957. We celebrate this date as National Day every year. However, to Sabah people, 16 September 1963 (a.k.a. Malaysia Day) is more matter. Sabah never “joined” Malaysia. We “formed” Malaysia with Malaya and Sarawak. Since I was a little boy, I have been hearing Sabah people complain that federal government didn’t value the meaning of Sep 16.

After 47 years, we had our first national-level celebration of Malaysia Day on last Thursday at Padang Merdeka of Kota Kinabalu, Sabah. Well, we all know why. Barisan Nasional (BN) lost a lot of seats in 308 election. Sabah and Sarawak, the “deposit” of BN votes, have become the feet of BN. They can no longer afford to ignore our voices. Whatever, at least we have one more public holiday added to the calendar. Hope everyone is happy now.

Of course I didn’t miss the first celebration of Malaysia Day. I was quite interested in photographing the first Malaysia Day Signing Ceremony. The Malaysia Day Book has 100 pages, to be signed annually for 100 years of Malaysia Day (if our country lasts that long).

Every government function starts with political propaganda. Prime Minister was trying to market 1Malaysia concept, though Sabah has been long practicing it.

Prime Minister started the first signing of Malaysia Day Book. There were dozens of photographers and media went after this shot. Luckily I also got mine.

Next is Sabah Chief Minister. Should be a great remembrance for him before retirement…

Signed by Deputy Chief Minister of Sarawak. Hope their CM will also retire soon. Poor Penan people..

Signed by the Sabah minister of tourism (also the organizer).

Signing Ceremony done. This book will be kept in the museum.

Performance followed, to show the past, present and future of Malaysia.

Since Malaysia Day is more for East Malaysians, the show had a lot of cultural elements of Sabah and Sarawak. It’s really a Sabahan event coz the audiences left many rubbish behind, despite repeated advices from the organizer, a true reflection of Sabah people. If we don’t like people say we live on trees, please behave like a civilized human. Personally I also have seen many rich people throw rubbish out of the car windows of their expensive cars.

It has been raining every late afternoon. Fortunately the weather was ok that day. The heavy rain came 1 hour after the end of show. Then it rains again every evening until today.

There were too many media and photographers around, so my movement was very restricted. I could only take photos from the side.

Buy expensive and inferior Malaysia products! Do we have choices, other than Proton, StreamyX, Bernas and SESB?

Overall the show was ok. But the venue is terrible, too small. Imagine thousands of people flooded the area no bigger than a football field. But this venue is the place where Malaysia was declared. Hopefully next year they will hold the event in Likas Stadium. I was a bit surprised that there was no lion dance.

Photos taken in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Ancient Chinese graves

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Even though the west coast of Sabah is more developed today, actually the history of Sabah began in east coast. Not only Islam started near Lahad Datu, there were a group of China migrants established in Kg Silam (Silam Village) more than 100 years ago. The name “Silam” is from the Chinese words “??” (means “poetical south” literally). Another explanation is – Xinan (old name of Silam) was only reachable by Chinese sailed in direction of South-west monsoon (??). This time let me bring you to the ancient Chinese graves in Lahad Datu.


Before we went to the graves, we dropped by an Observation Spot (also very near to Kg. Silam) made by the British in 1890. Someone built a structure to preserve it but it looks a bit funny and “incompatible” with the old monument. This stone was for surveying and mapping purpose near a harbour in the past but now it is inside an oil palm plantation due to retreat of shoreline over time.


The guide, Vincent said I could Google this observation spot based the words in its inscription. You may search “H.M.S. Wanderer” and see what you can find. The wording on the stone is quite vague. I can’t read its Latitude and Longitude figures totally.


Then we proceeded to the Chinese grave site. The people there are friendly and seem to get used to presence of tourists.


We passed by Kg Silam. In the past, this place was once a busy central and trading post of Lahad Datu. Due to the change of trade policy by British colony, this region phased out and become a small fishing village today. I didn’t see any Chinese face around, so it’s a bit hard to believe many Chinese lived here before. I think most of the population here today are Bajau people.


This is a hundred-year old well. The villagers are still using it today. We saw a child scooping water to take a shower next to it.


Small lake along the way. This place was a mangrove area I think.


Crossing the bridge…


Going up the hill. Do you notice that Chinese like to have their graves on higher point?


After 10 minutes of walking, we saw the ancient Chinese graves on the slope. Actually what left today is just a collection of about 10 tomb stones. The original graves are already empty because the content was stolen by tomb raider. The nice villagers gathered and fenced all the tomb stones in one spot.


This stone labels with “后土 神位”, look like a signage. I checked the Internet and it says “后土” (Hou Tu) is the 3rd Goddess who created the earth and the world, in China legend. She takes care of ying yang (negative & positive energies) and all living being. She is also known as the mother of the land and Goddess of the earth. This spirit tablet of Hou Tu is for protecting the land and the graves.


There are some Chinese words written on the tomb stones. I suppose these are the name, date and origin of the deceased. The red ink is gone so it’s very hard to read.


Like this one, I only can see the wording “永春” (Yong Cun of Hokkien province). You can find Chinese family names like Chong (张), Lim (林) and Lee (李) on the stones. Btw, when China was conquered by Mongolia in 14th century, the Mongolians worried that the big population of China could overthrow them easily, so they wanted to reduce the population by massacring Chinese who had one of the five most common surnames, namely, Chong, Lee, Wong, Liew and Chow (张、李、王、刘、赵). This is out of topic, JFYI only..


Chinese are very serious about their final home, the graves. Chinese think the deceased will not rest in peace if their graves are abandoned and nobody pay tribute to them, which is a tragedy. If the ancestors cannot rest in peace, they will bring bad luck to their offspring. Few years ago, my uncle dreamed that my late grandfather was complaining about the leaking water on the roof. When he came to his grave later, he found a crack on the grave! Coincident probably..


Most graves are belong to early Chinese migrants from Hokkien province of China. Someone believe Silam was once a port for China traders to source for bird nest from Madai of Kunak, which is not far from here.


One of the graves is built between 1875 and 1908, during Ching Dynasty (清朝光绪年间) in China. That is more than one century ago. The time China ruled by Manchuria. The men were forced to keep a “pigtail” behind their head. The Manchurian government said, “keep a pigtail or lose your head”.


Going further up to the top of the hill and you will get a nice view of sea and hill around Silam. If Silam sounds familiar to you, yes, it was the location once chosen for building of dirty coal power plant. The government might build a 100-Meter observation tower here. That will be a great photography spot in future.

I wonder if these Chinese ancestors always stood on this hill, looked at the sea and missed their hometown? Sadly, after 100 years, none of their stories and history are recorded. It’s Chinese tradition to be buried in hometown, even if they pass away overseas. For the deceased Chinese in this ancient graves, they may have already called Sabah their home 100 years ago.

Photos taken in Lahad Datu, Sabah Malaysia