Years ago I was told by a friend about the amazing Batu Gong (Music Rock) in Kampung Solibog (Solibog Village) of Tambunan. In Malay language, Batu means Rock and Gong is an idiophones musical instrument. Gong (photo below) is made of galvanized iron sheets and a backbone traditional music instrument for indigenous tribes of Sabah. In fact, gong is also commonly found in South East Asia countries such as the Philippines, Indonesia and Brunei.
Our people play gong in important social events such as wedding, festivals and celebrations. Usually gongs in various sizes were beaten by a group of players, in different rhythm to produce a harmonious orchestra. If you hit Batu Gong, it also produces sounds resemble to gong.
To see Batu Gong, I drove 1.5 hours to Tambunan town, which is about 81 KM away from Kota Kinabalu. I asked the Tambunan people how to get there. Though most of them know about Batu Gong, they don’t know the exact location. They only gave me a vague direction and advised me to ask the villagers when I passed by a golf course.
Going from the main road of Tambunan to the direction of Keningau town for about 7 KM, you will see a golf course named TNGC (Tambunan Golf & Country Club) at the left of the road within 10 minutes. Then turn left to a junction just before the milestone labeled “Keningau 43” (see photo above).
At this junction, you will also see the street sign “JLN. BATU GONG” (Batu Gong Road) with a signpost that reads “Golf View Villa” behind (see photo above). Just follow the small road.
After a while, I reached a T junction. I turned to right and it is a correct way. The GPS location of Batu Gong is 5.623135, 116.339694 (see Location Map or Street View)
Minutes later I came to the road with river at the right. I drove slowly and saw a white sign “Batu Gong” behind a gate at my left.
Location of Batu Gong
Pretty sure that I found the place. I parked my car and walked to the gate. I was a bit surprised that Batu Gong is inside a private housing area.
Though a bit hesitated, I opened the gate to enter. Then I saw a hut with a sign “Selamat Datang Ke Batu Gong” (Welcome to Batu Gong). Since it says Welcome, I guess it’s ok to go in.
Here it is! They store Batu Gong inside a simple hut built with zinc roof, brick wall and iron fence.
Looking into the hut, I was happy to see Batu Gong inside.
However, this place is a private property, probably I should ask for owner’s approval to enter. I walked to a house nearby. I met the owner, Uncle Yaman, and introduced myself.
Uncle Yaman is very friendly and more than happy to show me his Batu Gong. The Batu Gong are a few boulders that look like natural ordinary rocks. Judging by their look, I can’t spot anything unusual. The discovery of Batu Gong is also by accident.
According to Yaman, there was a straightening project of Pegalan River in front of his house in year 1995. A few boulders were dug out from the river and placed at the river bank. Nobody bothered about those rocks.
Some village kids like to bathe in this river. Then one day, the adults found that the kids playing with the boulder by hitting it with stone, to produce Gong-like sound. They were so amazed by these magic rocks, so they relocated them to his house for everyone to see.
Above: a closer look of the rock. Can you see anything special? Yaman said a Japanese scientist came here before to check out Batu Gong. This scientist believes Batu Gong has high level of iron, thereby giving it a metal property.
Above: so heavy, 3 men also can’t lift it.
There was someone offered to buy Batu Gong, but the villagers refused, as Batu Gong is such a unique and priceless natural wonder. See 8 small stones on Batu Gong? Batu Gong can produce 8 different tones. Each stone places on the spot that has a unique tone (but a few tones sound the same to me).
Traveling nearly 100 KM to see Batu Gong, I already couldn’t wait to beat it hard.
Wow, I can’t believe it. When being hit, Batu Gong sounds like gong (but not very much). Its sounds are crisp and high-pitched. Just imagine you hit the iron bar with a small hammer. My sense of rhythm is poor, anyway, I had so much fun hitting different spots to hear different tones. You can watch the video below to see what I mean. Near the end of video, I also include the sound and music of real gong for you to compare.
I always wanted to see Batu Gong years ago. I only did it after I got my compact camera with HD movie recording function, because I could not show the sounds with photos.
Above: the river where Batu Gong was found. This river is just in front the house of Uncle Yaman. 15 years ago, a project changed the course of this river to free up some land, which included the current housing area of Uncle Yaman. During rainy season, this overflow river still can flood the road next to it, in case you wonder why Yaman built his house so far away from the gate.
Ticket Fees (written in Malay): Adult (18 and above): RM4.00 (≈US$1), Kid (below 18): RM2.00 (≈US$0.50). Note: rates as of May 2016
Above: to show some appreciation, you can put money in this rusted tin. Of course you can give more.
There is a notice in the hut (no longer there, as of May 2016). I didn’t pay much attention to it until I opened the photos later at home. These are “visiting rules” written in Malay language. The first one says “No Smoking”, which is understandable as the holes on Batu Gong look like convenient ash tray. The second rule is odd, it says “Woman in pregnancy and menstruation are prohibited to enter”. Probably Batu Gong is considered as a sacred rock with spirit resides in it?
Just an extra info, music rocks like Batu Gong are also found in Kg. Baginda of Keningau, but I haven’t seen it yet.
Whenever you visit a new place in Sabah, especially in countryside, ask the locals. They would share some interesting stories or legend about their village. For Kampung Tempurong (Tempurong Village) in Kuala Penyu, I was excited to know this village has a healing well that still exists.
The healing well is not far from the road
Kampung Tempurong is about 15 KM away from Kuala Penyu town, and the healing well is next to Jalan Kekapor – Temporong. Its GPS Coordinates is 5.529614, 115.533864 (see Location Map or Street View).
Healing Well of Kuala Penyu
When the village was hit by drought about a hundred years ago, an Arabian prophet came and asked the villagers to dig a well at this location. This well provided enough fresh water for the whole village.
You can drink or take shower with this water
The well never dries up even during drought season. Even if people emptied the well, it would be filled with water again in next day. The villagers had been using this well before tap water is available.
This well was the main water source for villagers before tap water is available
The people also believe that by drinking or taking shower with water from this well, any sickness will be healed. A local said a villager cured his children who were used to have asthma with water from this well.
Villagers believe the water from this healing well can cure various kinds of sickness
The Healing Well is accessible by public and not fenced, so anyone can go there to collect water as they wish. Just be respectful and keep the area clean.
The Healing Well never goes dry
I was told that I can drink the water from this well unboiled. To be honest, the water is murky, so I didn’t dare to try. Probably next time.
Reflection of me in the well
Even the origin of the name of Kampung Tempurong has a story. The village of “Tempurong” (means Coconut Shell in Malay words) was initially called Tanah Merah (means Red Soil literally). In 1800s, a villager found a coconut shell at the seashore, and it’s engraved with holy verses of the Al-Quran. The village took it as a sign from God and unanimously agreed to change the name of the village to Tempurong, because they believed this would bring good fortune to the villagers. This place is really blessed by Allah, I think.
Photos taken in Kuala Penyu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
Yeah! Chinese New Year is only 2 days away and it’ll be the Year of Goat. Adults are probably not so excited about giving Ang Pow$ (red packet), but they will love lion dance. Some rich companies can afford to hire 20 lions to bless their business, but you can also watch lion dance by 100 lions for FREE.
Yup, you can enjoy such grand show in Dragon, Unicorn and Lion Dance Festival, which is an annual 1-day event usually held in weekend before Chinese New Year. This festival has been around since 1976, and they always have something new to show off every year.
Even non-Chinese Malaysians love lion dance show. It was used to be held in Merdeka Field (open space) but the event has moved to Likas Sport Complex (of Kota Kinabalu City), an indoor hall that is least affected by bad weather.
I went to the festival on last Saturday (7 Feb 2015). Around noon, the lion groups started to arrive one by one, and I was really busy taking photos. You can see my photos in Flickr album.
Pic: Techno Three Princes is the modern folkart of Taiwan and it’s gaining popularity in Sabah. In Chinese belief, they are the god that protects human from danger, plague and evil.
Red and gold are common colors of lions, which represent auspicious and prosperity in Chinese tradition, but they can be in many other colors too.
Pic: I really like this white lion, it looks so smart and beautiful. If I’m not mistaken, white lion represents Ma Chao (马超), who likes to wear white & silver armor and riding on a white horse in war, and he is one of the most famous military generals in Three Kingdoms. Lion in pure white and black is used for paying tribute to the deceased in funeral.
Pic: big and small lions. I could see pride on the faces of children who played lion dance. It’s better than playing iPad, isn’t it? I see hope in preserving our culture.
Even girls can be part of lion team.
Not only lions, dragon and Qi-ling also take part in this festival.
Pic: hyperactive Qi-Ling that dances like Energizer bunny.
Pic: Batik lions. Note the hibiscus flowers painted on the cloth.
Pic: the big head Buddha at the left looks funky.
Because goat is the zodiac of the coming new year, so they include the popular cartoon characters (Happy Sheeps and Big Grey Wolf) of China. Note the sheep head lion at the back. I wonder if they will have boar head lion in future.
Pic: baby dragon?
The Show
The lion dance and cultural show started around 3pm after all the VIPs were done with their speech and launching. The show ended around 8pm. If lion dance is your favorite, it’s like a buffet for your eyes and ears.
Pic: Lions and dragon climbed high to display scrolls with auspicious words.
Pic: blessing by hundred of lions. Epic!
Pic: fly lion, fly!
The first cultural show was 24 Festive Drums (二十四节令鼓), a performance listed as the cultural heritage of Malaysia. A group of drummers beat on 24 drums, which symbolize 24 meteorological events in farming calendar of Chinese. They use different formation and rhythm to show the harmony between sky, earth and people.
Pic: riding on a lion, what a cool way of making an entrance.
Pic: Nunchakus performance by Lee TianJiang from Teochew group. This guy is really good. You can contact him at (Mobile Phone & WhatsApp) +60 11-14138897 or WeChat (ID: leetianjiang) to arrange for a performance.
Pic: dragon chasing the big lollipop
Dragon has the highest rank among sacred animals, and also the most important because it can summon rain for the farmers.
Pic: pick green on the benches. It’s no easier than lion dance on stilts, as the lion has to balance itself on not so stable platform. You don’t need a big courtyard to invite lion to do pick green at your house.
Qi-Ling looks aggressive, but in Chinese mythology, Qi-Ling is the most gentle sacred animal and an icon of benevolence, because it never hurt human, not even plant.
My favorite show is the electrifying Lion lit-up by changing colorful LED light, as if its body is flowing with magical power. It danced and leaped on the stilts in the dark, very captivating show. Below is the video:
The following are two videos of Lion Dance on Stilts that day:
Chinese Cultural Village
The Cultural Village exhibition is something new in lion dance festival this year, too bad it’s only for one day. There were over 10 Chinese associations in Sabah participated, among them are Hakka (客家), Hokkien (福建), Teochew (潮州), Hainan (海南), Fuzhou (福州), Kwong Siew (广肇), Tai Poo (大埔), Eng Choon (永春), Sze Yip (四邑), Hin Ann (兴安), Northern Chinese (华北), San Chiang (三江), Nam Ann (南安), Lung Yen (龙岩), Anxi (安溪), etc. Each group has a population of several hundreds to many thousands in Sabah.
Pic: History is boring, but suddenly I was interested in history that day.
During 19th and 20th century, a lot of Chinese migrated to Sabah (then North Borneo) due to natural disasters or civil wars in China, or attracted by the incentive offered by British government. My late grandfather was one of them. When he arrived Borneo, he was shocked to find that Borneo was so backward. Many Chinese were farmers and labors who developed our forest and swamp into farm and towns. However, our blood, tears and sweats are documented no more than the Chinese gangland and communism in textbook of Malaysia history.
I visited the booth of each Chinese group, and their friendly exhibitors were happy to share the untold stories of their ancestors in Sabah, like their roots, why they came to Sabah and what they did here. I have to confess that there are so many things that I don’t know. In fact, many local Chinese don’t even know the hometown of their forefather. If overseas Chinese visits China and Taiwan, the people there will ask this question. They will laugh at you if you say you don’t know. When they realize that you are not joking, they will think, “OMG, this Chinese really forgets his root.”
Pic: The Hakka booth. My late grandmother also wore that summer hat (called 凉帽 in Chinese) in old day. Hakka is the biggest Chinese group in Sabah, and they are frugal, pragmatic and traditional good farmers. Most Sabah Chinese have their roots in Guangdong and Fujian Provinces of China.
Each Chinese group has its distinct culture, dialect and history. Many booths displayed the antiques and items used by their past generations.
Pic: Hokkien booth
It’s kind of fun to learn that not all Chinese are the same, each group has its own unique food, cultural practices and belief. However, these identities are fading over time.
Pic: carpenter tools, some are still being used today in less developed countries because they need no electricity to operate.
Besides labor support and lion dance, Chinese also brought in new skills and tools in agriculture, medicines, architect, etc., and the most important of all, Education. To Chinese, the Biggest Secret to Success is Education. Fortunately, Sabah government is more open and supportive in Chinese education and many non-Chinese Sabahans also send their children to Chinese schools. Let’s hope Sabah will be no longer the poorest state of Malaysia.
Islam landed on Sabah in 1408, according to a manuscript of Idahan found in Lahad Datu. Borneo was ruled by Brunei and Sulu, the Islamic empires, so Islam plays an important part in Sabah history. Even today it also influences every aspects of our culture and living, as 61.4% or 1,062,280 of Sabah population are Muslims (Census 1991). Sabah Islamic Civilisation Museum (Local Name: Muzium Tamadun Islam Sabah) is only 15 minutes walk away from Sabah State Museum, and you can enter it for free on the same day, with the same ticket you visit Sabah Museum.
Pic: Sabah Islamic Civilisation Museum
Sabah Islamic Civilisation Museum is a 2-storey building that requires only 1 or 2 hours to tour around. The five domes of this museum represent Five Pillars of Islam, the five basic acts in Islam which form the foundation of Muslim life. This museum looks like a beautiful mosque by itself.
Islamic World Gallery
In ground floor, the first gallery you will see is about the past and present of Islamic world.
Most tourists skip this museum so it is very quiet. Though I’m a non-Muslim who can’t read Jawi, I admire the elegant Jawi words engraved on the items. You can tell that the devotion to Allah is not only in the heart of Muslims, and also reflected in their daily lives.
Many Islamic artefacts are being displayed there, most of them are hundreds-year old items from Middle East countries such as Turkey, Egypt, Persia, Morocco, Iran and India. I list some of them here.
Pic: replica of Saidina Uthman bin Affan III sword. It’s too big (and precious) as a weapon. It’s for use in dance performance.
Pic: An Ilkanid pottery tile from late 13th or 14th century
Pic: these are interesting Chinese incense burners from late 19th century, with Quran verses on them. FYI, there are more Chinese Muslims than Malaysian Muslims on earth. Islam is a religion for the world, not to any particular race.
Pic: 19th century brass astrolabe from Persia. Muslims are already very advanced in astronomy during early civilisation.
Pic: this thing is like “laptop computer” of 19th century. They are small pen box from Qalahdan Teheran Persia (left) and Indo-Persian damascened travelling scribe’s set comprising an inkwell, pen holder and candle-stand (right).
Other artefacts that are on display are antique boxes, jars, Quran books, musical instruments, weapons, bowl, etc. The gallery also briefly introduces The Organisation of Islamic Countries (OIC) and its roles in today’s world.
Betel Nut Containers
This gallery is the highlight of Sabah Islamic Civilisation Museum. Betel chewing can date back to 3,000 BC and its function is similar to chewing tobacco today (but with more kick). To prepare for the chewing, the chewers need to cut the areca nut, add it with sirih leaf, lime and sometimes gambier paste. They would store these ingredients and cutting tool in a container (known as Celapa locally) that they can carry around, to enjoy betel chewing anytime.
Pic: A wooden betel-nut box engraved with silver along with four silver made betel nut boxes. The cap is decorated with gold plated carving. Usually used by the royal family from Sambas, West Kalimantan, Indonesia.
Betel was used as a social denominator among royalty, and king was attended by “betel slave” to carry the set for preparation of betel chewing. Elaborate betel set owned by royalty is made of the finest materials available, often gold or silver and inlaid with precious stones, and it is also exchanged as gifts between foreign rulers.
Many Sabah indigenous people still chew betel nut nowadays. They also like to encourage tourists to give it a try. To first-timers, betel nut tastes hot and bitter, so they would spit it out, giving our locals a good laugh.
The gallery of Islamic Museum has very nice collection of betel nut containers from Sabah, Sarawak, Brunei, Kalimantan, Kelantan and Philippines in various materials (e.g. wood, brass, silver and gold), shapes, sizes and design.
Pic: Copper Betel Nut set from Brunei, engraved with geometrical and flora vine motifs
A basic betel set includes a tray, individual containers (storage for items such as areca nut, betel leaf, lime and gambier), and a tool for cutting the nut. The material and workmanship of a set can vary from simple to complex.
Betel nut is commonly included as part of the offering in animistic worship, to communicate with supernatural force or cure sickness. The Betel Nut container is also presented as a symbolic gift for dowry.
Pic: silver round-shaped betel nut set from Sarawak, engraved with floral vine motif, with four small boxes and a gobek.
Ornamental gold betel box is among of 7 articles that required in installation ceremony for Sultan of Terengganu. It has become an important cultural heritage.
Borneo Gallery
There are dozens of Islamic antique in “Sabah Gallery” on first floor. Besides items from Sabah, I also found a lot of artefacts from Brunei and Sarawak so I call it Borneo Gallery.
Pic: exhibition on 1st floor
Pic: brass plate from Brunei with Jawi writing, for preparation of traditional medicine
Pic: English and Chinese plates decorated with Jawi writing. Most of them were imported to Sabah through trade during the 16th – 17th century
Pic: old coins used in Sandakan. Some are really big (I wonder how they put these inside their pockets)
Pic: antique cannon used by Pengiran Shahbandar Hassan
Pic: Handwritten Quran from Kota Belud dated more than 100 years old
Many more unique pieces are shown there. By looking at those old-day daily items such as kettle, measurement tools, containers, plates, swords, pots and vase, you could imagine how our Muslim ancestors lived.
Islamic Costumes
Muslim costumes are very commonly worn in Malaysia. However, very few non-Muslims understand the meaning behind the attires.
To know the culture, Islamic Costumes Gallery has very detail explanation of the Muslim’s “dress code.”
This gallery also displays many hand-embroidered cloth and robes from other Islam countries such as Jordan, Turkey, Iran, Arab and Dubai.
Pic: photographs of Muslims in different part of the world
Pic: silver necklace craved with floral ornate motif, worn by Malay royal women when attending festivals
Besides clothing, you can see other adornments and accessories worn by Muslims such as belt, pin, necklace, pendant, buckle and bracelet.
Mosques and History of Islam in Sabah
There is a section that introduces the development of Muslim in Sabah in the past, with some info & photographs of Sabah mosques. It also talks about Islamic laws, important local Muslim figures and events, Zakat law (giving 2.5% of own savings to the poor and needy) and Ulama (Muslim legal scholar). But most of the information is in Malay language and not translated to English.
If you are interested in mosques of Sabah, you may visit Sabah State Mosque and KK City Mosque in Kota Kinabalu, both are famous attractions. But please don’t visit on Friday (day of worship).
Pic: Sabah State Mosque
Built in 1977, the grand dome of Sabah State Mosque is one of the biggest domes in the world with a height of 132 feet and 70 feet in diameter. One of the most beautiful and unique features of this mosque is the high quality calligraphic writings found on every dome.
Pic: the “floating” City Mosque in Likas
Situated on a man-made lagoon, the architecture of City Mosque is inspired by Nabawi Mosque in Medina. It is the largest mosque in Kota Kinabalu and one of the most beautiful mosques of Malaysia.
Admission Fee
Note: If you have bought the ticket to visit Sabah State Museum, you can enter Sabah Islamic Museum with the same ticket on the same day for free (which means you don’t need to buy another ticket).
Say to any European you are from Sabah, most of them would ask, “Huh? Where is Sabah?” But if you say “Borneo,” many seem to know this island. Ironically, Sabahans know very little about their Borneo identity though Borneo is far more popular to foreigners, probably as a result of our school textbooks that mainly glorify the Malaya history of Peninsular Malaysia. Therefore, Sabah State Museum is the best place for locals and tourists to experience a fun history journey about Borneo.
Even though Sabah Museum isn’t as big as those world-class museums, it has great quantity of historical artefacts, documentation and photographs to connect all the dots of our past. For sightseeing tourists, a short tour of 2 hours is enough, but for people who love the stories of Borneo, they would spend half a day. Even if you hate history class, you would discover that Sabah history is interesting.
“A generation which ignores history has no past — and no future.” ― Robert A. Heinlein
The first thing that you meet inside museum is a huge whale skeleton of 18.6 Meters in length. It is the biggest whale skeleton exhibit in Malaysia, according to The Malaysia Book of Records.
It’s a Bryde’s Whale stranded at the beach of Gaya Island on 17 Dec 2006. Everyone tried to rescue this whale but it died eventually.
There are a few galleries inside Sabah Museum. I briefly highlight their features below so you know what are so special about each of them. The information sign is written in both English and Malay languages.
Ceramic Gallery
This is my favorite gallery. Ceramic jar was a very important commodity for more than a thousand years in daily life of Sabahans, people used it for storage, wine-brewing, bride price, ritual and even burial! Borneo imported ceramics from China as early as Sung Dynasty period (960-1279 A.D.). “Made in China” would mean something cheap and low-quality today. But during that time, China ceramic jar was highly valued and owning one is a sign of wealth.
Pic: Tabu Dita, the colorful tall jars at the right in the photo above, is one of the finest jar in Borneo.
Many antique jars are passed down for many generations as heirloom. Sabah Museum has been acquiring them across Sabah and they have the best collection here.
Pic: burial jars of Sabah. In the red boxes are human bones found in these old jars. Burial in jar is a very common practice among Kadazandusun and Murut people of Sabah in ancient time. After the corpse turned into bones, they would move the bones to a smaller jar and reuse the big jar.
Pic: the Museum also displays many trade wares from China from the period of Yuan, Ming, Sung and Qing Dynasty, and also from other countries such as Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Japan and Europe. Some of them are recovered from sunken shipwrecks.
Besides, there are items such as ceramic pillow, cosmetic boxes and spittoons, something that we don’t use anymore nowadays.
Pic: jars used as bride price by Murut in the past.
Headhunting Gallery
Hundreds years ago, the fearsome headhunters roamed the land of Borneo. Armed with sword and blowpipe, they hunted human heads as trophy. “Honey, I got a skull and now we can get married!” would be one of the things the warriors whispered to their girls. Coming back with heads was a symbol of bravery and a prerequisite for a wedding.
Today the headhunting tradition had long gone. Through the Headhunting Gallery of Sabah Museum, you will be brought back to their world to understand why and how they did it.
Under the roof, a collection of hundred-year-old (real) human skulls tied up together with silad leaves, as seen in the gallery, was a common view during the savage age, as the owners believed the skulls could bring them good fortune and protect their families.
Pic: head-hunting sword attached with the hair of victim
In the gallery, you will see the swords and weapons used by Kadazandusun and Murut people to cut off people’s head. There are some photographs of the headhunters and details on how they “processed” the heads.
Pic: containers for darts and poison of blowpipe
Natural History Gallery
This gallery gives you an overview of ecology in Borneo. Visitors will see specimens of different flora and fauna from marine, rainforest, swamp and cave ecosystems. It’s nice place for an educational tour for students.
Pic: skeleton of a Sumantran Rhino at the entrance
It’s quite impressive that they have the specimens of the most elusive and secretive Borneo animals such as clouded leopard, pitta (bird) and mud lobster. I know you prefer to see the live ones, but these animals are extremely hard to find in the wild, so it’s better than nothing.
Natural History Gallery also has a section that introduces some local herbs that can cure snake bite, breast cancer, leukaemia, etc. No wonder scientists say Borneo rainforest is the largest drug store in nature.
Pic: a specimen of Tufted Ground Squirrel, which is native to Borneo and also known as Vampire Squirrel. It’s the record holder of world’s fluffiest tail, a bizarre creature.
Ethnology Gallery
Sabah has 32 indigenous groups, with about 100 languages spoken, our culture is the most colorful and diversified in Malaysia, probably our state is under the influence of our neighbours from Philippines, Brunei and Indonesia. A good way to learn about a culture is to see what they wear, use and play.
Various handicrafts, farming tools and musical instruments are exhibited in this gallery. You can even try their musical instruments in a sound-proof room.
Pic: the cosmo section showing some unique costumes and accessories worn by different Sabah ethnic groups, which look very different from one another. Even for a simple item such as basket, they can have dozens of design.
Pic: music instruments on display
Pic: this is Unsunan. It looks like a boat but isn’t for sailing. I’ll let you guess what it does.
Ancient Culture Gallery
This gallery is quite exciting because you will see the best pieces of prehistoric artefacts from important archaeological sites of Sabah. The latest additions are stone tools from Mansuli Valley (at Lahad Datu), which dated back to 235,000 years ago and believed to be the earliest human civilisation in Borneo.
Browsing through hundreds of tools made of stones, clay, shells, bones and wood, which are nicely presented and organised, you will be amazed and want to learn more about the origin of Borneo people, because everything is so different from the Sabah we know today.
Our ancestors are not axe-wielding cavemen that don’t know business. During Neolithic period, they established one of the largest pottery making sites (Bukit Tengkorak) in Southeast Asia and “international” trade routes reaching 3,500 KM away.
Pic: artifacts from Mansuli archaeological site, this new discovery will rewrite the chapter on Borneo prehistory, a must-see.
FYI, the famous Perak Man from Lenggong Valley, which is the oldest known location of human presence in Peninsular Malaysia, is ONLY 11,000 years old.
Pic: buffalo-head ironwood coffin of 900+ years old, nothing similar is found in other parts of Southeast Asia.
The gallery also has a chronological graph of ancient cultures and a location map of significant archaeological sites in Sabah.
Pic: a 2,000-year-old Vietnamese drum from Bukit Timbang Dayang burial site of Banggi Island, an extraordinary piece from Bronze age.
Borneo has more links with other regions than West Malaysia in very old time. We would never know what we will uncover next in Borneo.
Sabah History Gallery
Malaysia is a country less than 60 years old, so Malaysia is absent in picture of Borneo history most of the time, our people had more connection with Sultan of Sulu (now Philippines) and Brunei, than other Sultan at another side of South China Sea. The Sabah History Gallery exhibits some major political and social events via info sign, antique and photographs, mostly from the time before Malaysia was formed (1963).
About 500 years of historical data is compressed into this gallery of 500 Sq. Meters, so you need only 15-minute to walk through Sabah history. The history of Borneo starts with ruling of Brunei and Sulu Sultanate, later Westerners came, then British took over Sabah and named it North Borneo. During British colonial era, there were some uprising of locals to against imperialism. In 1942, Japanese invaded Sabah during World War II, we were liberated in 1945 and form Malaysia with Malaya in 1963.
There are dark sides of Sabah history being told as well. Like in the age of piracy and slavery around 1870, no village was found for more than 60 miles along Kinabatangan River; the bloodshed during rebellions; the opium trade permitted by British government; the weapons used in wars, etc. Locals elders would dig deep in this gallery because they had lived through this hardship with their parents.
Pic: info about Sulu & Brunei Sultanate. The successors of Sulu Sultan wants Sabah back. Dream on!
Pic: “National flag” of North Borneo
I thought I knew Sabah history, but still many surprises were awaiting me there. Did you know North Borneo (now Sabah) participated as a country in 1956 Olympics games in Melbourne, Australia? Also on display are treasures from the oldest Chinese shipwreck in Malaysia, from the Tip of Borneo during Sung Dynasty period (960-1127 A.D.).
Pic: the “Invincible Vest” with sacred Al-Quran verses written on it, worn by followers of Mat Salleh to fight British forces between 1886 and 1900. Btw, they lost at the end.
Sabah Now and Then Exhibition (1963-2013)
If you are a foreigner who has no sentiment toward Sabah, it’s unlikely that you would be interested in this gallery. It is a “reminiscent corner” for locals by showing of important or meaningful things in 50 years of Sabah being part of Malaysia (1963-2013).
Pic: The items and photos may look somewhat familiar to older Sabahans.
Pic: An informative and colorful timeline graph that documents the historical moment of Sabah history in chronological order. Some bring back happy memory while some are painful reminders.
Pic: the New Vs Old photos of building and cities/towns in Sabah. Looking at the photos, youngsters would laugh, “Wow, we were so underdeveloped!” Old folks would sigh, “Hey, I used to work at this place.”
Pic: can you tell where is this place?
Pic: still remember these items? We used to love them so much and saw them every day. Technology changes so fast, so is human heart.
Others
There are just too many things to explore in Sabah Museum Complex. You may check out the following sites if you have ample time:
Sabah Islamic Civilisation Museum
Sabah Islamic Civilisation Museum is a small museum about 20 minutes walk away from Sabah Museum (see Location Map). If you have bought the ticket to visit Sabah Museum, you can enter it with the same ticket on the same day (needless to buy second ticket).
This museum exhibits some antiques and information related to Islam in Sabah, for example, Al-Quran, ceramics, costumes, mosques in Sabah, accessories, brasswares. The highlight is a very nice and extensive collection of fancy betel nut containers.
Heritage Village
It’s located next to Sabah Museum and Ethno-botanical Garden, you may take a stroll among the traditional ethnic houses of Rungus, Murut, Bajau, Dusun, etc. You can walk into each house and take photographs. There is a pond and lush forest around the village, where you will find many native fruit, herb and ornamental plants. It’s a beautiful place but please bring insect repellent just in case.
After the visit, there is a nice gift shop where you can buy some souvenirs, and a small cafe for some food and drink (limited choices).
Visitor Info
Sabah Museum is only 2 KM away from Kota Kinabalu City Centre and very accessible by taxi and bus (see Location Map).
Semporna town is Sabah’s gateway to world-class dive sites such as Sipadan. Every year ten of thousand of tourists come to Semporna, but most head straight to the islands and never visit Bukit Tengkorak (literally means Skull Hill), without knowing that they miss an attraction which is an ancient volcanic rim and the largest pottery making site in Southeast Asia during the Neolithic period. From its top, you also can enjoy a breathtaking view of Semporna and its islands.
Pic: you can see Bukit Tengkorak from Semporna town
Pic: archaeological museum (left) and coconut stall (right) at the entrance of Bukit Tengkorak
Bukit Tengkorak is only about 10 Kilometres away from Semporna town and the tour takes less than 2 hours, so I can’t find any reason not to drop by. The archaeological museum is a gallery with prehistoric artefacts. The entry is free. For a better experience, you would need a tour guide who can tell you the interesting features of this place.
The admission is free, but you need to register before entering the archaeological heritage site.
Pic: this is the wooden staircase to reach the top of 500-feet-high Bukit Tengkorak, where the excavation site is located. According to my tour guide, Kenneth, it is exactly 610 steps one way. Sound taxing but I went slow and didn’t feel really tired. There are some hungry mosquitoes around foothill, so please bring your insect repellent.
As you will walk under hot sun, you may apply sunblock lotion in advance. Bring some water with you, and raincoat, just in case. There are 4 shelters along the way, where you can rest and enjoy the beautiful view.
In the shelter, you may read the interpretation board (written in English and Malay) about the history of Bukit Tengkorak.
Bukit Tengkorak is one of the largest pottery making sites in Southeast Asia during the Neolithic period (about 3,000 years ago, between 4340 BC and 50 BC). Not only that, research also shows that people traveling between Borneo and New Britain in Melanesia (near Papua New Guinea), which was one of the longest trade routes (3,500 KM) in the world during that period. Archaeologists believe such long-distance sea trade and migration route left behind what is known as the Lapita culture of pottery, tools and ornaments. The old pottery manufacturing technology is still being used by the Bajau community in Semporna today.
Pic: before reaching the highest point, you already can see Semporna town. Seafest Hotel is clearly visible. Human has existed in Semporna since Paleolithic Period (about 10,000 years ago).
Pic: due to the volcanic soil, the vegetation on this hill is different from other parts of Sabah.
Pic: granite embedded in volcanic rock, an interesting geological trait on this hill.
You will find many pottery sherds along the way. It is estimated that more than 6 million prehistoric potsherds can be found all over this hill. Researchers also find large number of seashells covering Skull Hill. Some says they are washed up to the hill by super Tsunami, some says these are leftover discarded by ancestors.
Pic: the third shelter with open and wide view
The third shelter has an observatory platform, where you can have a panoramic view of Semporna and its surrounding area. In clear day, you can see Mabul Island.
You may watch the 1-min video below for the nice view:
Pic: The “Sleeping Old Man” islands, which is officially known as Semporna Islands Park or Tun Sakaran Marine Park, the largest marine park of Malaysia so far. It is a remnant of a huge volcanic explosion about 5 million years ago.
Pic: a huge limestone boulder next to shelter. I could sense that “something” was watching us.
Pic: we were moving toward the top. The last half of the hike is under the tree shade, so it is not too bad.
Finally, we were welcome by a congratulatory signboard on the top. Now we are 500 feet (152 Metres) above sea level. It takes only 30 minutes for anyone reasonably fit to get up here. FYI, there is no restaurant and toilet on the hill top.
I’m curious why ancestors want to live so high up on the hill. Some says high ground is more secure and this foothill has large clay deposit for making pottery.
Archaeological Heritage Site
Bukit Tengkorak is an important archaeological site in Southeast Asia because artefacts discovered here supports new hypothesis on ancient human migration.
Pic: Historians unearthed thousands of prehistoric pottery with various types of decorations in layers of ash here. This cave was probably a remnant of open kiln for firing pottery.
Pic: the excavation in year 2008
Pic: the items found on Bukit Tengkorak. I snapped these pictures on info board. They say the best pieces were transferred to Sabah Museum.
Pic: fragments of decorated pottery made using fingernails, shells and wood materials.
Besides hundreds of thousands of pieces of prehistoric pottery decorated with intricate patterns, another unique discovery from this hill is stone tools made of chert, agate and obsidian. Food remains comprising animal and fish bones and shellfish are also found.
Ancient Volcanic Rim
Ok, let’s close the boring history textbook and let me show you the opposite side of this hill. Now, open the geography textbook LOL.
Bukit Tengkorak is actually part of the exposed rim of an ancient volcanic crater about 2 KM in diameter. The rock formation at Bukit Tengkorak consists of volcanic breccia, mostly andesitic rocks, and is believed to be the remnants of past volcanic eruptions which occurred during the Pliocene Period (5.3 to 1.8 million years ago).
Pic: Kenneth showed us a totally different world behind the hill
Pic: the last shelter
As Bukit Tengkorak is not a popular destination, there were only 9,000 visitors in year 2010. Anyway, because of its nice scenery (and quietness), Bukit Tengkorak has become a hot dating spot of local couples. Our visit may have interrupted a lot of intimate interactions there. Just kidding.
This forested hill is covered by grassland and surrounded by numerous isolated hills and mountains. I really love the green view (though the oil palm plantation spoils the view a bit).
I’ve travelled in most part of Sabah, but this place is so different. Though I didn’t find any treasure, the picturesque scenes are for me to keep in memory forever.
See the ridge dotted by dark boulders at a distance? It is the rim of a huge ancient volcano.
The dark boulders are volcanic rocks which are formed million years ago.
Pic: close-up of a volcanic rock
Pic: the huge boulder reminds me of Ayers Rock in Australia
I think geologists would be very interested in Bukit Tengkorak, as they can find volcanic rock, limestone, sandstone and granite in this hill.
Archaeological Museum of Bukit Tengkorak
For scuba divers who have enough of Nemo and corals deep underwater at islands of Semporna, a visit to Bukit Tengkorak is a great way to see Semporna high on a hill during long wait of preflight surface interval. For bird watchers, you have a good chance to spot Hooded Pitta.
How to Get There
Bukit Tengkorak is located at Jalan Tampi-Tampi (Tampi-Tampi Road), only 10 minutes drive away from Semporna town. When you approach SMK Agama Tun Sakaran school, look for the wooden arch next to the road. Just turn to that junction and you will reach the site in a few minutes (See location map).
Opening Hours: 9.00 am – 5.00 pm daily Correspondence Address: Bukit Tengkorak Archaeological Site, C/O Muzium Wilayah Pantai Timur, 2nd Floor, Wisma Warisan, 90000 Sandakan, Sabah, Malaysia. Tel:(+60) 089–222679 Contact Person: Mr. Juanis Ogak (East Coast Museum Curator) Email:Juanis.Ogak@sabah.gov.my, Muzium.Sabah@sabah.gov.my
Every corner in Kota Kinabalu city (KK) is under pressure for development, and very few things can survive for one century without being removed. Do you know there is a 100-year-old Banyan tree in KK? Not only that, it is also the Largest Banyan Tree in KK.
I was informed that this giant Banyan is just behind Lucy’s Homestay Backpacker Lodge (near to KK Police Station and Australia Place). When I was approaching the site, I noticed the lush tree canopy right behind Lucy’s Home, as if there were many trees. Actually, this dense canopy belongs to ONLY ONE TREE, i.e., KK’s largest Banyan.
Pic: the staircase (note the arrow) leads to the century-old Banyan tree
The canopy of this Banyan tree is like a huge umbrella, spreading out 65 Meters across. Banyan trees are the largest living trees on Earth.
Pic: I took a photo under the tree. See how small I was?
As the tree was too big to fit in one frame, I had to setup my camera and tripod far away, then ran 10 Meters upstair to position myself under the tree, before the timer counted to zero. The camera always shot prematurely, so I had to keep trying. I was so tired to repeat. Luckily I got an aunty to press the shutter for me.
Pic: This Banyan is Ficus tree with heavy branching. Its odd shape and uneven bark surface give it a mysterious character.
In Asia, Banyan is always linked to religions and spiritual world. Some cultures consider Banyan as a sacred tree (FYI, Buddha’s Bo Tree is also Banyan), others think it houses evil spirits. For Sabah, Banyan can be a haunting tree, wishing tree, shade tree and even love tree. Anyway, this large Banyan is definitely a heritage tree that witnesses the growth of our city. However, I don’t think this Banyan is labelled as a Heritage Tree. Hope KK City Hall will gazette it under City Law, so nobody can cut it.
My late grandfather was used to have a big Banyan tree outside his house. He said sometimes he could see white human figure with pointy hat, climbing up and down Banyan whole night long. In Sabah, you can hear many ghost stories related to Banyan.
Pic: It’s me standing next to this Banyan. I couldn’t smile because I sweated profusely and attacked by dozen of mosquitoes. Do bring insect repellent with you for the visit. I estimate this tree is about 15 Meters tall.
Though it was a bright day in the city center, the shade and noisy cicada of this tree made me felt like inside a deep forest.
The branches of this Banyan haven’t touched the building, but it’s root network has reached the shoplot, a local said. The root of Banyan can stretch 200 Meters.
Below is the location map of KK’s Largest Banyan: View My Sabah Map in a larger map
Pic: The walkway next to this Banyan is the Oldest Track of Kota Kinabalu. Walking up this historical trail will bring you to a paved road to Signal Hill Observatory Tower, where you can get a nice view of KK city. My advice is – don’t go to that tower alone during quiet hours.
Pic: part of the track needs proper maintenance to be safe.
Credit: I would like to thank Outreach Ecology (Tasmania) for sharing the information of this Banyan with the community. However, there is no official record to prove this tree is really 100 years old, otherwise it can be the Oldest Tree of KK too.
You had seen it, probably hundreds times, if you live in Kota Kinabalu (KK). The oldest tree of KK has been standing next to one of our busiest roads for over 80 years, but most motorists don’t even notice it. Guess what? This heritage tree is valued at RM600,000 (about USD$181,000)!
Now you want to see it right? 🙂 KK City Hall (DBKK) told me that there are a few of them near the traffic light next to Wisma MUIS (yellow building at the right of the photo above).
If you still can’t tell the exact trees from my photos above, you may use the location map below:
These old trees are over 20 Meters tall and have broad umbrella-shaped canopy. They exist since the British colony time, the time when Sabah is known as North Borneo. When British government was ruling our state, they planted a lot of trees near building and field, so their people can enjoy some shade in warm and wet tropical climate.
However, less than 100 trees of colony age stands until today around KK, most of them are over 60 years old, and these two are over 80 years old, being the oldest in Sabah capital.
The trees have short bole with heavy side-branches. Some epiphytes such as Bird’s Nest Ferns find the branches a nice habitat. Who knows you might find orchid on it.
Other famous KK city tour destinations such as Sabah State Mosque and Sabah Museum are less than 500 Meters from these trees. The funny thing is – no tourist visits the oldest heritage trees. I bet most Sabah travel agents don’t know about it. Do you see the man (at red arrow) standing next to the tree? Just to let you know how tall and big this tree is.
The second tree nearest to the traffic light is about the same height too.
FYI, they are Rain Tree or Monkey Pod (known as “Hujan-Hujan” in Malay language, Species: Samanea saman), which is native to northern South America and a common ornamental and shade tree for parks & big gardens. Typically Rain Tree can reach 15 to 25 Meters (50 Meters in rare case) in height with a broad crown of 30 Meters in diameter. Rain Tree can live an average of 80-100 years. Now they are over 80 years old, so you better check them out soon, before they are gone within 20 years.
The British tourists would be excited to see this “legacy” left by their ancestors in Sabah. The bark of Rain Tree is rough and fissured in long plates or corky ridges, like the wrinkled face of an old man.
On the tree trunk, you will find a metal tag that reads, (translated) “This tree is gazetted as the heritage tree under the small law of Kota Kinabalu City Hall. Any planned action on this tree must be reported to:
Director, Landscape Department of KK City Hall,
7th Floor, Center Point Building, No.1 Bandaran Road, 88675 Kota Kinabalu. Tel: 088-244000 Fax: 088-243501″
The ID of these two tree are JTAR-4002/2009 and JTAR-4003/2009, and you can call KK City Hall to find out more.
There is another tall Rain Tree (ID No.: JTAR-4005/2009) next to the traffic light. It is smaller so I’m not sure if it’s also the oldest.
There are hundred of heritage trees in KK get this little golden tag that exempts them from being cut down. If you look at the trees, especially the big and old ones, around Gaya Street, Tanjung Aru, KK roadside, Merdeka Field (Padang Merdeka), etc., you will see many trees are tagged as heritage trees. A tree needs to meet one of the following requirements to become a heritage tree:
1) Older than 25 years
2) Planted by celebrity
3) Diameter exceeds 60 CM
4) Taller than 5 Meters
5) Grow in historical site
Besides supplying oxygen and purifying the air, trees also provide shade for us. You will really appreciate that shade during hot day.
When the trees flower, our city will look like having a blossoming cherry season.
I would like to credit Chung Yi Ni (???), the reporter from See Hua Newspaper (????) who wrote the article titled “The Oldest Tree of Kota Kinabalu” (??????) that was published on newspaper on 12 Jun 2011. The article is so well-written that she won an award. And that’s how I learn about these trees and share this online.
Photos taken in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
