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Bohey Dulang of Semporna Islands Park

My urge to visit Bohey Dulang Island started with a photo seven years ago. “Nice painting!” I praised a big drawing of islands hanging in the office of my friend. “Actually it’s a PHOTO taken in Sabah,” he replied. I was stunned. The islands look so surreal, such place doesn’t even seem exist. After some lookup in local bookstore, I found that it is the photo of Tun Sakaran Marine Park (or Semporna Islands Park) taken by Michael Patrick Wong.

Pic: aerial photo of Tun Sakaran Park by Michael Patrick Wong

Tun Sakaran Marine Park (TSMP) is located off Semporna at east coast of Sabah and comprises of eight islands – Bohey Dulang, Bodgaya, Tetagan, Sebangkat, Selakan, Maiga, Sibuan and Mantabuan, covering a total land and sea areas of 350 km?.

Pic: view of Tun Sakaran Marine Park from Semporna town. Locals call it Sleeping Old Man and I guess you can see why.

TSMP is the largest marine park in Sabah (but will be superseded by 1-million-hectare Tun Mustapha Marine Park soon). I was also told that you can get a fascinating view of TSMP (they call it one of the most beautiful views of Sabah) from the peak of Bohey Dulang Island.

Below is the location map of TSMP. You also can see it in Google Map:

Every now and then I contacted some travel agents for a trip to this park, but they all wanted me to charter the whole boat (for nearly a thousand bucks) if I traveled solo, so the plan was held indefinitely until last month Edward from Borneo Star Cruise texted me, “bro, I’ll visit Bohey Dulang tomorrow. You want to join?” Of course I was more than happy to tag along!

About Bohey Dulang Island

Bohey Dulang (or Boheydulong, Bohaydulong) is the second largest island (size: 313 hectares) of TSMP and about 23 Km away from Semporna. Legend says there lives a beautiful princess named Salamia from Bum-Bum Island. Her family hid her on Bohey Dulang, to avoid a forced marriage by a notorious Sultan from the southern Philippines.

Pic: drama about Princess Salamia in Sabah Fest 2010.

However, she vanished a few days later and believed to be hidden by the spirits of this island and turned into a fairy. Even nowadays, local people say they can hear Princess Salamia singing and her dog barking during the night of full moon. Occasionally, she is seen walking around the island.

Pic: Bohey Dulang Island

The name Bohey Dulang is derived from bohi (bohey) meaning water and dulang meaning pools or depressions in Bajau language. This may refer to series of oval rock pools, roughly 2-3 m across, along the small waterfalls and main freshwater stream on the eastern side of the island.

Pic: East side of Bohey Dulang Island

People say these pools are a source of drinking water for Princess Salamia. A document reports a large cave (40 M high and over 20 M long) is situated on the east side of this island too. Could it be the home of Princess Salamia? I wonder.

Day Trip to Bohey Dulang

Ok, back to my tour. Edward and I were taking a boat from Semporna town around 11am. The weather was good and we approached TSMP in 15 minutes. The Best Time to visit Bohey Dulang are from February to April (the dry months). If you visit during wetter months like July, August, December and January, your trip would have higher chance of being spoiled by heavy rainstorm of monsoon seasons, or not, depending on your luck. The park would close the climbing trail if the weather doesn’t seem good (even if it’s cloudy and no rain).

Our boatman showed us a “secret passage” where we could see dozen of sea turtles. We cruised slowly on the sea near TSMP. It was low tide and the water was crystal clear. We could see large area of corals and white sand under the ocean.

Then we did see over 10 sea turtles passed by our catamaran one by one. Gee… though turtles look heavy and clumsy, they swim as fast as a torpedo in the water. I totally fall in love with the beautiful nature and romantic legend of this island.

You may ask, “this magical destination should have become very famous for a long time. Why it only rises as a new attraction in recent years?” Good question. In 1963, Bohey Dulang was leased to Kaya Pearl Company to establish the first pearl cultivation center in Malaysia. The island was heavily guarded by armed personnel and stranger was strictly forbidden to enter the island. That’s why Bohey Dulang is nicknamed as the Pearl Island or Treasure Island.

Then the pearl farm was closed in 1993. In 2004, Bohey Dulang, with seven other islands, is gazetted as ?Tun Sakaran Marine Park? (TSMP) by the Sabah Government. As a national park and by word of mouth, it gains more exposure and now it receives hundred of tourists every day.

TSMP is managed by Sabah Parks and they have an office and giant clam nursery on Bohey Dulang. Visitors are required to get a permit from them before entering the island. I hope they will make it a public park soon, so tourists only require to buy ticket to enter. Furthermore, Bohey Dulang needs more tourism amenities such as restaurant, watersport center and resort.

From the jetty, you can see the peak (at left in photo above) that is used as the view point for scenery of TSMP.

For a fast overview of Bohey Dulang, you may watch the short video below:

Hiking to the peak

You need to ascend a 800-Meter nature trail to reach the peak with a height of 353 Meters, which normally takes 40 minutes. The climb can be a bit challenging after rain, because some steep areas will become slippery and muddy. Do wear proper walking shoe, I strongly advise against flip-flop. The park will make it compulsory to rent a pair of hiking shoes from them for RM5, if you don’t wear the proper shoes. It’s warm and humid in the forest and hot on the peak, so please bring some drinking water.

Trail map of Bohey Dulang Island (with English translation)

Pic: the view points on the peak. The trail will lead you to the one at right, you can walk 20 Meters to the view point at the left for better sight. The dark grey rocks that form the high cliffs and large shore outcrops are mainly volcanic rocks of late Tertiary (Pliocene) and Quaternary periods. It’s unique because Semporna peninsula is the only place in Sabah where you can see these rocks.

There is a small toilet at the beginning of the trail. It is not so clean and well-maintained, but usable.

Limited supports such as boardwalk, handrails, ropes, stairway and plank path are available to make your climb easier, but you will walk on soil and rocky path most of the time and busy grabbing the small trees along the trail for support. For safety, a Sabah Parks guide will escort you on the way. Just go slow and everyone can make it quite easily.

Like other islands in TSMP, Bohey Dulang has one of the most unique and unusual plant communities in Borneo, especially coastal forest and scrub vegetation. Some plant species here are regional endemic to Semporna islands and Philippines, and not found in other locations of Borneo, for example, rare Paraboea leopoldii on cliff faces, Dracaena multiflora monocot, palm-like Cycas rumphii, cactus-like succulent Euphorbia lacei and trichoglottis geminata, a rare epiphytic orchid grows on volcanic rock.

I was looking for Selaginella tamariscina, a small plant of 4-5 cm high like a miniature tree fern. Its leafy distal branches curls inwards under hot sunlight but flattened during rain. This cute plant is a new record to Borneo, and it grows on exposed to partially shaded, gently sloping rockfaces of this island.

We saw probably nearly a hundred tourists on the way down. They looked tired but really happy. Some even encouraged us, “move on, you are close!”, “it’s awesome up there!”, “it is worth the effort.” A rain earlier turned part of the trail into creeks. Many tourists took off their flip-flop and descended barefooted, when their shoes were too slippery to hold their feet. I sweated a lot but the soothing sea breeze prevented me from overheat.

Wildlife such as long-tailed macaque and otter also live on this island but not in great number. A total of 48 bird species comprising mainly resident birds have been recorded around Bohey Dulang. The notable bird species are Metallic Pigeon (Columba vitiensis), Nicobar Pigeon (Caloenas nicobarica), Tabon Scrubfowl and Pied Hornbill. I saw more mosquitoes than other animals though. The good news is – there is no leech.

Pic: They call this ladder between boulders “Stairway to Heaven.” You should feel joyful when you reach here. Not because you will go to heaven, the peak is only a very short walk away now.

Finally I came to a flat ground and saw the light in front. I could tell the amazing scenery was waiting for me outside the dense bushes.

Hooray…!!! After a taxing climb, it’s time to enjoy the wonderful view and stay as long as you want.

The Most Beautiful Seaview of Sabah

On top of Bohey Dulang, you can have a bird-eye view of the sapphire-colored Bodgaya Lagoon embraced by emerald forest of three central islands (Bodgaya, Bohey Dulang and Tetagan), the only islands in Sabah made of volcanic rock and part of the Sulu volcanic chain. In fact, the lagoon, which is about 6.5 Km across, is a crater of an ancient volcano erupted 2.5 million years ago.

The central islands are the remnants of a Quaternary volcanic crater rim. Part of the “rim” is dissected and inundated by the sea but you can see it from its curved reef formation. I was standing on top of an extinct volcano. You may look at the satellite photo below for a clearer view of the rim.

Pic: I could see our boat at the jetty. All boats look like tiny toy from a height of over 260 Meters. The highest point of Bohey Dulang is 353 Meters and situated further south. They might open a new trail to there in future.

Pic: abandoned pearl farm

It’s noon time and most tourists have descended. The rest of us were happy to take hundred of photos. They didn’t build any fence, so be careful when you stand on the uneven surface of the cliffs.

Pic: To your right you can see the 120-Meter long channel between Bodgaya Island and Bohey Dulang. Bodgaya means “impressive mountain” in Bajau language, and it’s the largest island (795 ha) in TSMP and about 8 Km long. You also can see its highest peak, Mt Bodgaya, which is 455 Meters high.

If you say Bohey Dulang has the most beautiful sea view in Sabah, those who had been there won’t argue with you. You may forget many things in life over time, but you will always remember the breathtaking seascape of Bohey Dulang.

For the best view, you need to walk another 20 Meters to your right for second view point, which offers a truly panoramic view (like photo above). You would miss this spot if nobody tells you. This is the favorite spot of landscape photographers to capture the circular shape of the lagoon and “50 shades of blue” colors.

The volcanic rocks and mixture of Bornean and Philippines flora make this park looks a bit “exotic” even to Malaysians. Like the yacca-like Dracaena multiflora in photo above. It is common in summit scrub here but do you know that it’s only found in Philippines and Semporna Islands Park?

It’s hard to say goodbye to Princess Salamia and her lovely islands in Celebes Sea, which can match the beauty of Caribbean Sea.

How to get there

A day trip to Bohey Dulang is possible even if you stay in Kota Kinabalu City (KK). Just take a 50-min morning flight from KK to Tawau City, upon arrival get a 1-hour land transport to Semporna town, then the park is only 20 minutes away by boat. The earliest flight to Tawau departs at 7:25am, and last flight back to KK is at 7:45pm. Both direct routes are served by Malaysia Airlines and available every day. You may use Google Flight to check out the latest prices and other flight alternatives. Please note you need a permit from Sabah Parks prior to visit the island.

Starting on 1 Feb 2016, visitor will need to pay for entrance ticket to this island (which they call Conservation Fee):

Ticket Rates (in MYR Malaysian Ringgit)

Conservation Fee (to Tun Sakaran Marine Park)	Adult	Below 18	Below 12	60 & Above
Malaysian	RM8	RM5	Free	Free
Non-Malaysian	RM20	RM12	RM12	RM20
Climbing Fee (Bohey Dulang)	Adult	Below 18	Below 12	60 & Above
Malaysian	RM20	RM10	Free	Free
Non-Malaysian	RM50	RM30	RM30	RM50

Fees to climb Bohey Dulang, rates with effect from 1 Jan 2023

Please feel free to contact Borneo Star Cruise for more info:
E-mail: info@borneostarcruise.com
Phone (24×7): +60 17-820 7911 (also reachable by Text, WhatsApp, Viber, LINE)
Facebook: Borneo-Starcruise-Sdn-Bhd

Other Activities

Besides sightseeing at Bohey Dulang, there are a few other activities you can do around Tun Sakaran Marine Park (TSMP).

1. Visit Giant Clam Nursery

Due to overfishing, giant clams are highly endangered. TSMP is a refuge for seven species of giant clams (Tridacnidae and Hippopusporcellanus species).

Sabah Parks has a giant clam nursery and hatchery center on Bohey Dulang, where they breed and propagate giant clams inside and outside the Park. The display and settlement tank area, which houses a few species of giant clam (may not open to public and tourists). It’s possible to arrange an educational tour to visit their lab and research center.

2. Snorkeling & Diving

TSMP is located in Coral Triangle (a.k.a. Amazon of the Sea), which supports one of the richest marine ecological zones in Malaysia. 528 species of coral reef fish are found in the park, much more than Sipadan Island (409), Redang (209) and Tioman (233). Teeming with over 320 species of hard and soft corals, and variety of sea creatures such as eagle rays, barracuda, turtles and nudibranchs, this park is getting well-known as a scuba diving and snorkeling site.

Mantabuan Island has the best concentration of corals and marine lives. Sibuan Island is featured as one of the 101 Best Beaches of Malaysia. Therefore, both islands are the favorite picks of travel agents to impress their guests.

3. Photography

You are wrong if you think that TSMP is only about nature. Many world-renowned photographers have visited this park for human interest shots here and won some international awards. Around the islands, there are about 10 villages of Bajau Laut (a.k.a. Sea Gypsies) people living either in temporary shacks or in their boats. They maintain very traditional lifestyles and possibly the only nomadic seafarers left in the world.

Most of them are fishermen in hardcore poverty. However, when their primitive houses, nude children and pristine sea are being framed into a photo, its visual impact is so overwhelming and so out of this world (though it’s a sad reality). Whenever I drop by Semporna, I never fail to see a few boatloads of photographers heading to TSMP.

More Photos

For more photos, you may check out my photo album.

References

New records of Bornean plants from the Semporna Islands off Sabah’s east coast, KM. Wong et al., Sandakania 13 (1999): page 31-40
The landscape, vegetation and botany of the Semporna Islands off Sabah, Borneo, KM. Wong et al., Sandakania 13 (1999): page 41-65
Semporna Islands Darwin Project (2001 Jan). Management Plan for the Semporna Islands Park

Photos taken in Semporna, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Loop Trail of Mt. Kinabalu, the Best Hiking Route of Sabah

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(Update: Mesilau Trail is permanently closed, and day hike to both Timpohon and Mesilau trails is no longer allowed) The space to climb Mt. Kinabalu is always full, so many tourists don’t have the chance to climb the highest mountain of Malaysia. Don’t be disappointed if you are one of them, because you still can try Loop Trail, which allows you to hike up to 2,745 Meters asl (asl = Above Sea Level), about half the height of Mt. Kinabalu (4,095M). The height of Mt. Kinabalu is not the reason why it’s listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The real treasure of Kinabalu Park is its high density of endemic flora & fauna, which you can see along the Loop Trail. I would say it’s one of the Best Hiking Trails in Malaysia.

The Loop Trail

Loop Trail is a day-trip easy to arrange and you won’t be under pressure to conquer the mountain. You only need to hire a Mountain Guide and pay a small fee. More on this later. Please note the Loop Trail (in orange color) in the 2D trail map below:

You can pick one of the starting points for Loop Trail, namely, Timpohon Gate and Mesilau Gate, and both trails join at Layang-Layang after 4 KM (2.5 Miles) and 6.2 KM (3.9 Miles) respectively. At Layang-Layang, Loop Trail visitors have two options, (1) turn back to where they begin, or (2) proceed to another Gate. Loop Trail visitors are forbidden to take the Summit Trail after Layang-Layang, and no, you can’t camp in the shelter.

Timpohon Vs. Mesilau Trails

Timpohon Trail is shorter and easier, Mesilau Trail is longer but the view along this trail is more beautiful (EVERYONE says that). Timpohon Trail is mostly uphill trail so descending is fast and easy. In contrast, Mesilau Trail is a series of ascending and descending trails, so turning back is almost as challenging as going up. Anyway, it’s not mandatory to finish the loop trail. You are free to stop at any time and head home.

Below is a table that shows you 3 types of route you can do in Loop Trail:

Route	Distance	Remark
Timpohon Gate → Layang-Layang → Timpohon Gate	8KM (5 Miles)	The Easiest route, take 3 to 5 hours.
Mesilau Gate → Layang-Layang → Timpohon Gate	10.2KM (6.34 Miles)	Recommended route to get the most of Loop Trail. Take 5 to 7 hours. Tip: start the climb from Mesilau in the morning, for clear view of Mt. Kinabalu (would be covered by fog after 9am)
Mesilau Gate → Layang-Layang → Mesilau Gate	12.4KM (7.7 Miles)	Hardest route. May need over 7 hours. You have to be very fit. Some trail runners do this loop as a training.

*The number of hours taken is highly dependent on your physical fitness.

Though Loop Trail ends at the altitude of 2,745 M (9,006 feet), you already reach a height taller than the second and third highest mountains of Malaysia, i.e. Mt. Trus Madi (2,642M) and Mt. Tambuyukon (2,579M)! Overall, along the trail there are shelters with toilet, water tank to refill water (it’s untreated water from mountain stream, use water purification tablet if you have sensitive stomach) and support such as stairway, hand rail and wooden plank. The trail is well-marked and there is no leech (a blood sucking critter), bear and Bigfoot.

Things to Do

Besides hiking, the following are some fun activities to keep yourselves entertained during the walk:

Birdwatching: 17 endemic montane birds of Borneo live in Kinabalu Park, e.g. Chestnut-hooded Laughing Thrush, Friendly Bush Warbler
Flora & Fauna Watching: you will find exotic orchids and pitcher plant next to the trail. Some plant may look ordinary but they can’t be found in other parts of the world. Don’t pluck or collect anything. It’s an offense in national park.
Photography: The majestic landscape, lush forest, pretty flowers, etc. are good subjects for photo taking.
Or just sit and watch, enjoy the nature. A few squirrels will come near to you.

Temperature drops every 1°C for every ascending of 100M, so it’s cooler the more you move up. The temperature ranges from 16 to 25°C (61-77°F), but it can be quite warm in daytime, especially in a vigorous walk. Be warned though, the trail would turn into creek during heavy rain and the experience could be quite awful.

Registration and Fees

The climbing fee for Loop Trail is RM5 for Malaysian and RM10 (≈US$3) for foreigner. You MUST hire a Mountain Guide (from Sabah Parks) to go with you. The service of a Mountain Guide costs RM203 (≈US$57, rate of year 2015) per day and he can bring up to 6 climbers, which means you can share the guide fee with other hikers. For example, there is a group of 6 foreigners, each of them needs to pay RM10 climbing fee and share the cost (about RM34) of hiring one Mountain Guide, so each person only spends RM44 (≈US$12.22). If you go solo, you still have to pay the full amount.

Pic: This is the tag (permit) for Loop Trail visitor. The tag for Summit Climber has photo of Mt. Kinabalu imprinted.

Pic: Kinabalu Park HQ. The registration and payment counter is behind this building, and you can hire transport to Timpohon Gate in the small office at the left.

If you start your Loop Trail from Timpohon Gate, you can register and hire your Mountain Guide at Kinabalu Park HQ. Passport or MyKad is required for the registration. Please note Timpohon Gate is 3.4 KM (2.1 Mile) away from Kinabalu Park HQ (by asphalt road) so you may want to hire a (one-way or return) transport to send you there. The phone number of Kinabalu Park HQ is +60 88-889888 in case you have more questions.

Pic: Mesilau Gate and Sabah Parks are in Mesilau Nature Resort

If you plan to depart from Mesilau Gate, you better inform the Sabah Parks office there by phone (+60 88-871550) so your Mountain Guide will wait for you at Mesilau (as most of them stations in park HQ).

For those who can afford to pay more for a better experience, you may hire tour guide (from travel agent, someone who has good knowledge on flora & fauna). Please note all payment is by Cash Only.

Below are some photo walk-through so you know what to expect.

Timpohon Gate → Layang-Layang (4KM one way)

Timpohon Gate is the trailhead for Timpohon Trail, which is busier and shorter than Mesilau Trail. You will see many climbers start their summit trail here. Porters also use this path to carry supplies (e.g. tourist’s luggage, rice bag, gas tank, water tank) to the accommodation on mountain.

Pic: Timpohon Gate. You can buy snacks, drink and basic supplies (e.g. raincoat) in the building.

Pic: You need to show your tag (permit) to the Checkpoint at the left, before you hit the trail.

After 300M, you will see Carson Waterfall at your left. If you see large volume of water, it might be raining in higher ground.

Pic: the first shelter you will reach is Pondok Kandis (Pondok = Shelter), which is named after an edible but sour mangosteen (in Dusun language). At 1,981.7M asl, you are in the transition zone between lowland rainforest and montane cloud forest, where you start to see mosses, ferns, orchids, etc. Most of the time you will walk on the ground mainly consists of metamorphic rocks from here to Mempening Shelter.

Pic: Ubah Shelter, the 2nd shelter at 2,081.4M asl, it’s named after wild guava tree. The signage says red leaf monkey could be spotted around there, but I never see one.

You can enjoy the scenery better than other climbers as you are not in a hurry to conquer the mountain. Just relax and enjoy the beautiful surrounding.

Pic: 3rd Shelter, Lowii Shelter at 2,267.4M asl, which is named after Nepenthes lowii pitcher plant. You would see some pitcher plant such as Nepenthes tentaculata if you explore the bush next to this shelter.

Pic: distance marker (in Kilometer) and trail map to show your current location.

Pic: Mempening Shelter (2,515M asl), named after a species of Oak (family Fagaceae). In this shelter, you will hear many climbers start mumbling about the exhausting hike. You can tell them they are not even half way yet LOL.

At this point, you have entered the Montane Forest (Cloud Forest) above 2,500M, the surrounding will look misty and mossy, and so distinctly different from vegetation in lowland.

Pic: To survive the long trek, you have to to eat whatever you find along the trail, like the giant earthworm that comes out after heavy rain. Just kidding. If you are very lucky, you will spot Kinabalu Giant Leech, the predator of giant earthworm.

Pic: The last shelter of Timpohon Trail, Layang-Layang Shelter at 2,702M asl, it’s named after a Bornean swiftlet (Collocalia dodgei). This is also where ultrabasic forest begins, which is made up of orange soil that is high in acidity, with high concentration of magnesium and zinc while low in phosphorus. You will see a lot of endemic plant from now on. Unfortunately, you will reach Layang-Layang junction within 10 minutes, where you need to turn back to Timpohon Gate or proceed to Mesilau Gate.

Mesilau Gate → Layang-Layang (6.2KM one way)

Mesilau Gate is 1,933M asl and located in Mesilau Nature Resort. This trail is longer and more challenging than Timpohon Trail, but you will be paid off by nicer view. Only a small number of climbers taking this trail to the summit, so it’s more pristine. The trail is also narrower and not that well labeled. A few sections are steep and slippery (after rain). You will be fine if you are careful.

Pic: Sabah Parks office and Mesilau Gate in Mesilau Nature Resort

Pic: the registration and payment office is just next to Mesilau Gate

Pic: start of Mesilau Trail. Enjoy the 6.2 KM hike!

Pic: mountain and forest in fog

I only tried Mesilau Trail once and it was raining. It was so misty that I wasn’t able to take some good photos to show you. Please believe me that the scenery along Mesilau Trail is better than Timpohon Trail.

Pic: Schima Shelter, the 1st Shelter.

Pic: Bambu Shelter, the 2nd shelter.

In average, there is one shelter for every one KM. All the shelters on Mesilau Trail are smaller and less developed than those on Timophon Trail.

Pic: bridge over West Mesilau River

Pic: Tikalod Shelter

Pic: Don’t ask your guide how many KM left. You will always get the same answer, “We are near”. Read the distance marker.

Pic: Lompoyou Shelter

Pic: There are some viewpoints in open area. Too bad the view was obstructed by dense fog during my visit.

Pic: Magnolia Shelter

After 6KM, you will reach the Layang-Layang junction, where you should descend to Timpohon Gate or turn back to Mesilau Gate.

Layang-Layang

Layang-Layang is the meeting point of Timpohon and Mesilau Trails. The summit trail beyond this junction is off limit for Loop Trail visitors.

Pic: Layang-Layang Shelter (left) and Staff Quarters

Pic: warning to visitors without permit.

Pic: Layang-Layang Shelter. The Layang-Layang junction is less than 10-minute walk further up.

Pic: Layang-Layang junction

Pic: final warning to climbers at Layang-Layang junction. You are not allowed to move further up if you don’t have the permit to climb Mt. Kinabalu.

Pic: signage at Layang-Layang junction (Laban Rata and Gunting Lagadan Hut are the accommodation on the mountain)

Things to Bring

The following is a list of items you should bring. Try to pack light. When you climb a mountain, you can feel every Kilo of the weight. Also, wearing comfortable hiking shoes will help a lot (best if it’s water-proof).

Backpack (preferably with rain cover)
Water bottle (with water of course)
Pack lunch and snacks (no restaurant available on the trail)
Fleece or Windbreaker (It can be cold when it’s windy)
Raincoat (a Must-Have)
Sunblock lotion (UV on mountain is higher)
Walking pole
Camera (with spare batteries & memory cards)
Extra socks
Pain killer (for altitude sickness or knee problem)
Torchlight or LED Headlamp (just in case the sky turns dark before your trip ends)
Cash

Photos taken on Mount Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Zip Borneo, the longest zipline in Borneo

Zipline (Flying Fox)

Zipline is the highlight of Zip Borneo and no vigorous exercise is required for the extreme excitement, so I tried it first. The zipline is double-cable system with a total length of 320 Meters (about 1,050 feet). If you do it, you have more gut than 40% of population, because about 3 or 4 out of 10 participants chicken out, when they see the enormous height.

Pic: zipline over Kiulu River

The zipline has two sections. First, you zipline 210 Meters from the tall tower to cross Kiulu River, then use another 110-Meter zipline back to Zip Borneo.

Pic: view from top of 18-Meter-high zipline platform

I peeked from the edge and the height made me sweated. My legs turned weak and I sat down. I knew it’s perfectly safe but it took me some times to convince my restless mind that I’ll be ok.

The staff fastened the carabiners of my harness to the zipline and asked “Are you ready?” I blurted, “NO! Not yet…” He understood that I was struggling, just like most other participants, so he waited for me patiently to get myself mentally ready.

That took me a lot of courage to say, “Ok, I’m ready.”

When I was gliding on zipline, it’s not as scary as I thought. Everything was moving so fast. The view of forest and river from above was so breathtaking that I wished the ride could last longer.

Then my zipline came to a halt and I proceeded to second zipline. The feeling during preparation was still like being on a gallow though, lol.

Pic: ready to zipline to back to other side.

Pic: photo of river and forest taken during the flight. Nice huh?

Pic: ending point of second zipline

The ziplining took last than a minute in total. I estimate the highest speed is around 35KM/Hour. It’s a blast and no regret (I want more actually..).

You may watch the 1-min video below to see what I experienced:

“If you don’t challenge yourself, you will never realize what you can become.”

High Ropes Challenges

For next activity after zipline, I purposely went for the most frightening one, the high ropes challenges, which is 10-16 Meters above ground. High rope is not for the weak-hearted, you may go for climbing or abseiling, if high rope is too much for you. In fact, I hesitated at first because it looks like something far exceeding my comfort zone. High Ropes consist of 6 challenges with varying degree of difficulty and require different balancing skills.

The first challenge is Spaghetti Walk. I needed to walk on a foot cable and used the hanging ropes to cross to other pole. During high rope challenges, participant is attached to an overhead cable with two carabiners so it is very secure.

I thought it was easy. After a few steps, the foot cable wobbled like mad and I had problem to balance. The guide shouted, “you have to keep moving, the longer you stop, the more it wobbles!” Oh dear, I already got nervous in first section.

The second challenge is Burma Bridge. This challenge is the easiest one. Probably I’m so used to suspension bridges of Sabah and both are similar.

Just keep calm and go on. Don’t think too much. All these activities aren’t challenges at all if done at floor level. However, when I was 16 Meters above the ground, my subconscious keeps telling my body that I was in danger, making every move so hard.

Then I proceeded to Swinging Steps, the third high rope challenge.

This section requires you to cross with series of swinging wood planks. Not too hard if you have long legs but a misstep won’t be fun.

Pic: you can almost read “Thanks God I Survive” on her face lol.

Ok, here comes the most challenging section, the Tension Traverse. It has two long ropes from both sides at an angle. I had to hold both ropes to balance and move to other side. It doesn’t even look possible.

Honestly, I was freak out. It’s hard to balance and my body kept leaning back and forth, and the foot cable wobbled. My heart raced, mouth turned dry and my legs shivered. I fought very hard to overcome my fear and to stay focus. I was kind of stuck in the middle and the ropes were heavy. Luckily there were pretty girls watching so I didn’t want to act like a wuss. I moved inch by inch, and completed this challenge without a fall.

Pic: this is how it looks when you try Tension Traverse, a nerve wracking experience that will definitely trigger your survival instinct, as if it’s a dead or alive matter. My advice? Don’t give up.

Postman’s Walk, the fifth challenge. You only have two cables to hang on.

The last challenge is Cargo Net, which looks like one of the obstacles in military training, but we do it high in the air. It’s quite tiring.

Next time I’ll appreciate more what those action figures do in the movie, to save the world, and whatever. To Watch and to Do are two different stories, but you only learn to handle fear by doing things.

Fees & Types of Activities

Zipline costs RM40 (≈US$11.50) per ride. Zipline Combo package costs RM100 (≈US$29), for one ziplining and one activity of your choice (High Ropes, Climbing or Abseil). You only pay RM180 (≈US$51) to try all 4 activities of Zipline Ultimate package. Please visit their website for updated pricing and follow their Facebook for latest promotion (10% to 50% off sometimes). Recommended age for children is 6 years and above.

Zip Borneo also conducts other outdoor activities such as white water rafting, biking and jungle trekking. Do bring sunblock lotion and insect repellent with you.

Pic: Adventure Centre of Zip Borneo in Kiulu. It is surrounded by beautiful forest and river.

Pic: Dining area. Toilet is behind this building.

They also provide BBQ lunch and return transportation for a fee.

Pic: located next to Kiulu River, this is also a nice place for camping (only available as part of activity program).

Pic: you also can enjoy a swim in the river after the activity, if you are not in a hurry to go home.

How to get there

Zip Borneo is located in Kiulu (see Location Map), about 41 Kilometers away from Kota Kinabalu City. When you approach Tamparuli Bridge, enter the road with brown signboard that says “Kiulu Water Rafting”.

Pic: junction to Zip Borneo

The road of Kiulu is paved road with two way lanes. The condition is ok but watch out for potholes, uneven surface and landslide.

Pic: you will see about 3 neon yellow Zip Borneo signs along the road

After about 7 KM of driving in Kiulu, you will see the last sign at a junction. Turn into it and drive 300 Meters on a cement road in a village and you will reach Zip Borneo.

If the weather is good, you would see Mt. Kinabalu on the way.

More Info & Contact

Operation Hours: Tue – Sun, 9am – 5pm
Phone: +60 13-8088075 or +60 88-269289
Fax: +60 88-258289
Email: fly@zipborneo.com
Website: www.zipborneo.com
Facebook: ZipBorneo

For more photos, you may check out the photo album:

Year 2014 is full of bad happening, but we also learn that we really need a lot of courage to pull through different hardships. Hope the challenges at Zip Borneo will take you to a new height. Happy New Year!

Photos taken in Kiulu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Sport Climbing on Mt. Kinabalu, the Highest Mountain of Malaysia

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Every year more than 50,000 tourists climb Mt. Kinabalu, the highest mountain of Malaysia. Among the climbers are kids, ordinary adult and even old people. Mt. Kinabalu is so conquerable that I think “climbing” is an overstatement. To keep you away from trouble, the park has turned the summit route into something like a super long stairway that is easy to hike.

The majestic Mt. Kinabalu has over 30 peaks, a paradise for rock climbers who thirst for adventure. Isn’t it a “waste” to open the mountain for hiking only?

The good news is – Mountain TORQ sees the potential and starts Alpine Sport Climbing Course on Mt. Kinabalu in 2012. Alpine means the high altitude region above tree line (In Malaysia, only Mt. Kinabalu is high enough to have Alpine zone).

To experience true climbing, I joined their 4-day training two weeks ago. Fred is my trainer. He gave me an introduction and overview of sport climbing on day 1. He is professional, humble and humorous, so the class is kind of fun. When asked what if all safety measures failed, he replied, “Don’t worry. You will fall only ONCE.” So funny. 😀

I also learnt about various climbing gears such as protective helmet, harness and lanyard. In contrast to traditional rock climbing that we always watch in action movies, sport climbing prioritizes maximum safety so adrenaline junkies can enjoy extreme adventure under safe environment.

Rope management is a key part of the course. It is no easy task to run 50 Meters of rope between my fingers inch-by-inch, to detect the damage inside a rope. Sport climbers need a great deal of patience for preparation. I’m a slow learner so I practiced a lot of time making figure of 8 knot and rope coil.

We were supposed to practice rock climbing on day 2, but too bad it was a rainy day. Our climbing site became a valley of giant waterfalls. 🙁

The Climb

Luckily, the weather on day 3 was good. The morning was so cold that both of my ears were numb. We geared up and departed to our climbing site at 6:30am.

After 30 minutes, we came to the starting point. We then proceeded to our climbing site by Via Ferrata (or “iron road” in Italian). Via Ferrata is a protected mountain path comprising a series of rungs, rails and cables embracing the rock face. It’s not sport climbing but I’m excited to have a taste of the highest Via Ferrata in the world, a 2-in-1 climbing experience!

Climbing Via Ferrata doesn’t require special skill, all you need to do is just fasten your carabiners to the cable and move along with climbing aids such as iron pins, hand hooks and carved footholds.

Mt. Kinabalu is such a nice place for rock climbing because the peaks are free of snow and ice, and the temperature is cooling (about 10-25°C or 50-77°F during daytime), and of course the breath-taking view of landscape from the top.

Some sections are quite steep and slippery, but the support from Via Ferrata makes the climb a lot easier.

Pic: the cable bridge of Via Ferrata, a nightmare to height phobia but we love the feeling of hanging in the air.

Pic: taking a break and enjoy the scenery that is available to sport climbers only. The temperature was pleasing when the sun showed up.

After an hour, we arrived our rock climbing site and got ready to climb.

Pic: our climbing site is 3,773 Meters above sea level (below Donkey Ears Peak, see the yellow arrow), about 2 KM away from our accommodation.

Pic: the graph of four climbing routes for us to try, i.e. The Arete, The Good, The Bad, The Ugly and The Forgotten, with different grade of difficulty.

After hearing enough talking and theory in the classroom, we were so eager to be on the field.

Pic: our Belayer. Belayer is the rope man who holds and controls the safety rope connected to climber. He will act upon the instructions of his climber, e.g. climbing, resting, lowering.

After pre-climb check and fastening the rope to your harness, you can ask the belayer, “Am I on Belay?” You can start climbing if he replies, “You are on belay, climb when ready.” He might not respond if you say, “Excuse me, can I climb?” LOL

Pic: the view of our “playground” from the bottom. Trust me, the climbing route is not as simple as it seems.

The climb involves vertical wall, crack, corners, overhangs, slabs, roofs, etc. Each route has its own set of challenges. It’s time to put our skill into test. Albeit the challenging climbs, it’s my happiest moment in the course.

To impress others, I tried to climb like a Spiderman, but I ended up crawling slowly like a frog. Part of The Ugly route was quite tricky and steep that I stuck a few time because I couldn’t find any hole or crevice to grip on, in order to move over the protruding boulders. The route is only 30 Meters but I was so tired and called for a rest once. You can’t grab the rope to move up, which defeats the purpose of rock climbing. You only can climb with hands and feet.

Pic: reaching the end of rope. Safe!

What I really like about the climb on Mt. Kinabalu is the coarse and hard rock face of its granite, which has no slippery soil and loose rocks. And climber is not exposed to extreme weather and natural disaster here.

Pic: abseiling was quite nerve wracking when I had to descend in an upright position to the rock.

“The best climber in the world is the one who’s having the most fun.” — Alex Lowe

To have the greatest fun, just have total faith in your gears and belayer. After all, we want to have some fun during the adventure, right?

I really love the climbing shoes, as it needs only a very small contact point at the tip, to keep climbers stay firmly on the rock. Spiderman probably got one of this.

The mountain turned foggy around noon, then followed by heavy rain. We had to stop climbing. The goal of sport climbing is for satisfaction and enjoyment. I think I have achieved it. And I respect Mt. Kinabalu even more.

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Pendant Hut

During the course, sport climbers stays in Pendant Hut, which is 3,289-Meter above sea level and only 100 Meters away from Laban Rata (where ordinary tourists stay). To attend the training, your first challenge is to hike 6 KM to this hut on day 1 (normally take 4 to 6 hours).

Pic: Pendant Hut is one of the accommodations on Mt. Kinabalu

Pic: Pendant Hut and Mt. Kinabalu

Pic: lounge area of the hut. We play board games and have breakfast here. This turns into a classroom during training.

Pic: the view through the window is beautiful, as if our hut is above the cloud.

Pic: our room is basic and dormitory-style. Sleeping bag is provided.

There is no heater in the hut. I visited in the coldest and wettest month (4-6°C / 39-42°F), so I had to keep warm in 3 layers of clothing. In warmer months (around mid-year), the temperature here ranges from 12°C to 20°C (53-68°F) during daytime, which is not too bad.

Pic: Every day I need to use this steep staircase to “climb” to my bedroom, a good training, haha..

Pic: toilet & bathroom in basement, the coldest area of the hut.

The tap is never short of freezing cold water. The shower water is heated by solar power. You get hot water in sunny day. In cloudy or rainy day, it isn’t enough sunlight to power the heater, so at most you will get lukewarm water.

Btw, you will earn a certificate if you complete the course successfully. Besides climbing and practical tests, we need to pass a written test (sorry, no multiple choice), which is not hard as long as you pay attention during the course. Now I’m a “Certified” Beginner Sport Climber. ^_^ I’m quite keen to go for their Advanced Sport Climbing Course.

Be a Sport Climber

You may contact Mountain TORQ (see contact below) if you are interested in sport climbing. The minimum age of joining is 10 and you need to be reasonably fit (super fit does help but not necessary).

Company: Mountain Torq
Address: Unit 3-36, Asia City Complex, 3rd Floor, Jalan Asia City, 88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia (see location map).
Tel: +60 88 268 126
Office Hours: Mon to Fri, 9am to 5pm (Time Zone: GMT +8)
Website: www.mountaintorq.com

Photos taken in Kinabalu Park, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Climbing Mt. Silam with Sabah Crabs

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After enjoying the nice view of Darvel Bay on Tower of Heaven, I went to climb Mount Silam. With a height of 884 Meters, Mount Silam is one of the highest mountains in Lahad Datu. Plant and animal enthusiasts will find that a hike on Mt. Silam is filled with pleasure surprises, due to rich variety of unique and endemic flora and fauna here. Thanks to Sabah Forestry Department, who keeps this mountain pristine in its 698-Hectare Sapagaya fully protected forest reserve.

Pic: Mt. Silam and its Tower of Heaven (Menara Kayangan)

Mt. Silam is classified as an Ultramafic Coastal Mountain. In layman’s terms, the soil in Ultramafic environment is reddish brown in color and formed by ultrabasic rock. The soil has high concentration of heavy metals such as magnesium, iron, nickel, chromium and cobalt, but poor in plant nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. The ultramafic substrates are “toxic” so the plants which can survive here are very different from other vegetations. That’s what makes Mt. Silam so special.

The Summit Trails

Climbing a 884-Meter mountain may sound taxing. But no worry, I started the climb at 620 Meter elevation (near the Tower of Heaven), so going up and down Mt. Silam took me less than 6 hours. Do bring raincoat, water and energy bars with you, as there is no shelter and water station along the way. Wear comfortable hiking shoes, and a trekking pole would help, though the climb is not tough.

Pic: the start of the summit trail is just behind the Tower of Heaven.

Pic: the trail signage. The dig-a-hole instruction makes me laugh. There is no toilet on the mountain.

As shown on the signage above, there are two trails to the summit, i.e. the easy but longer Kalung-Kalungan Trail (estimated 2.5 KM), and the shorter but difficult Kayangan Trail (estimated 1.5 KM). To get the most out of this climb, I did a “loop” climb by ascending via easy Kalung-Kalungan Trail and descending via Kayangan Trail.

The Kalung-Kalungan Trail is fairly easy and I spend most of the time walking. Kayangan Trail is steep and narrow, a bit challenging and it is quite slippery after rain, you need to climb and get dirty, so I only recommend Kayangan Trail to experienced hikers.

Pic: the paved walkway and lower montane forest (cloud forest) at the start of summit trail.

My climb starts at the lower montane forest zone (altitude: 540M – 770M asl), the trees here have relatively shorter and thinner stature than lowland forest. They get even smaller (but denser) when you move up to higher altitude.

Silam Crabs

If you pay attention to the forest floor near the tower, you will see some cute and orange-red Silam crabs foraging among leaf litters. This land crab is endemic to Sabah and only confined to ultramafic forest of Mt. Silam. Personally I call it the “Ruby of Mt. Silam” or you can call it the Sabahan Crab, haha, whatever.

Pic: Silam Crab (Species: Geosesarma aurantium)

Silam Crab can be found up to the peak of Mt. Silam. Isn’t it weird to see seafood living on mountain? The red-orange shell (carapace) of this crab also reminds me of the color of steamed crab served on dish. Most of them are shy and flee to crevices before I can photograph them. A few are bold to face my lens. When threatened, they tap the ground with legs, making sound to warn the invaders.

Pic: boardwalk under construction, watch your steps.

Mt. Silam is open to public in year 2012 so it is still new. Sabah Forestry Department is busy improving the amenities and accommodation.

After 100 Meters of paved walkway and boardwalk, I came to the nature trail, no more man-made structure and support after this point. The air is as cooling as air-cond and I was wearing a thin T-shirt, but I still sweated a lot due to the long hike. The trail is well-maintained and the route is clear, so you won’t lose in the jungle, even without the trail markers. There was no forest leech during my visit. Though the trail is not tourist-friendly, most people won’t find it too hard to hike Kalung-Kalungan trail.

The Animals

Besides Silam Crab, there are some wildlife living in Mt. Silam. However, most of them are small animals.

There are 23 mammal species such as Sambar Deer, Banteng (Wild Ox), Giant Flying Fox, Slow Loris and Bornean Gibbon on Mt. Silam. Bearded pig (wild boar) is the easiest one to spot as they seem to eat day and night. I saw a few groups of macaques on the trees too.

Pic: forest snail that looks like a trumpet

Pic: giant millipede

If you like birdwatching, there is a mix of lowland, sub-montane and coastal birds in this area. A few noteworthy birds are Black-backed Kingfisher, Rufous Piculet, Chestnut-crested Yuhina and Red-bearded Bee Eater. I saw Emerald Dove, Leaf Warbler and Blyth’s Hawk Eagle.

Pic: Black and yellow Broadbill

“Hi!” from a curious warbler.

Pic: Tiger Beetle that looks like an ant

Tiger Beetle is the Olympian runner of insect world. If human is as fast as a Tiger Beetle, he can run at 770 KM per hour, meaning he can run from LA and reach New York within 6 hours on feet.

Pic: an unknown spider

The Plant

The plant biodiversity of Mt. Silam is amazing, as there are 374 tree species in four main forest types on different altitudes of this small mountain, each has its unique characteristics:

200M – 300M: Lowland ultramafic forest
330M – 540M: Upland ultramafic forest
540M – 770M: Lower montane ultramafic forest
770M+: Upper montana ultramafic forest (Mossy Forest)

Keep your eyes on the grass, flowers, bamboo, trees, etc., they can be endemic plant of Sabah and Borneo.

Pic: strange leaves

Pic: (left) Poisonous berries of Flax Lily, (right) Bangkau-Bangkau, the Enigmatic Bornean Tree endemic to Sabah.

Orchids

Orchids are everywhere, especially around the ridge area at 800M and above. Many orchids here are epiphytic, which means they live on trees that provide them support and more sunlight on higher spot.

They grow on the tree, mossy carpet, slope… Too bad I didn’t visit during the blooming months of orchid, which usually occurs in Feb and Mar after rainy season. Anyway, a few were generous to give us a showtime.

Pic: this orchid grows high on top.

Unlike the flamboyant big commercial orchids, native orchids are generally very small and not easy to spot.

Pic: this heart-shaped Jewel Orchid (Species: Corybas serpentinus) is only found in Sabah and the one I want to see the most, but sadly no blooming.. So I only can show its photo from poster. Another tiny orchid that I want to see is Porpax borneensis, which is also endemic to Sabah.

Pitcher Plants

Pitcher plant is abundant on Mt. Silam, you have to be blind to miss it. Some species such as Nepenthes reinwardtiana, Nepenthes tentaculata, Nepenthes macrovulgaris and Nepenthes stenophylla are endemic to Sabah or Borneo.

Pic: pitcher plant in the garden near the Tower of Heaven.

Pic: The top of Mt. Silam is blanketed by this small Nepenthes tentaculata, the most common montane species in Borneo. Note the hairs on its lid.

Pic: the upper pitcher of Nepenthes macrovulgaris (endemic to Sabah)

Pic: the lower pitcher of Nepenthes macrovulgaris in red color

Pic: just to show you how big is the pitcher plant on Mt. Silam.

Pic: some frog species live and grow inside the pitcher plant. Scientists still try to find out why.

Upper Montane Forest (Mossy Forest)

Mossy forest is normally found from 2,000M up to 2,700M above sea level, but you can find Mossy Forest after 770M elevation on Mt. Silam. Mt. Silam is experiencing Massenerhebung effect, a natural phenomenon that different vegetation zonation “compressed” on a small and isolated mountain.

Pic: the mossy forest of Mt. Silam on higher altitude.

The Mossy Forest is characterized by small pole trees and mossy ground. Cushion moss is important for the water balance of ecosystems in the forests by storing large amounts of water. Such wet environment is important for orchids.

Pic: Vivian, our guide standing next to the the trees full of epiphytes.

The ground, tree trunks and branches of Mossy Forest are covered by thick humus layer and enveloped with mosses.

Pic: a mossy stick insect blends into the mossy environment perfectly.

Pic: walking on the ridge near the summit. You can see the exposed reddish-brown ultrabaisc soil. The fern in the photo is Dicranopteris curranii (local name: paku resam), the most abundant fern species, it is ecologically important for moderating harsh surface temperature environment.

For more reading on natural wonders of Mount Silam, you may download the pamphlet below (published by Sabah Forestry Department):

Personally, for hikers in Sabah’s East Coast, I think Mount Silam is the best mountain for an enjoyable half-day climb, because it is easy and rich in flora and fauna. For more info (accommodation, direction, etc.) about Mt. Silam, you may read my earlier post about Tower of Heaven.

Photos taken in Lahad Datu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Treasure Hunt on Skull Hill (Bukit Tengkorak) of Sabah

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Semporna town is Sabah’s gateway to world-class dive sites such as Sipadan. Every year ten of thousand of tourists come to Semporna, but most head straight to the islands and never visit Bukit Tengkorak (literally means Skull Hill), without knowing that they miss an attraction which is an ancient volcanic rim and the largest pottery making site in Southeast Asia during the Neolithic period. From its top, you also can enjoy a breathtaking view of Semporna and its islands.

Pic: you can see Bukit Tengkorak from Semporna town

Bukit Tengkorak was previously known as Bukit Kabongan until the discovery of two modern human skulls and skeletons on the hill by locals. Archaeologists believe they were victims of the Japanese occupation during World War II. According to a local retired teacher, Haji Abdul Rahman Omar, formerly of SMK Datu Panglima Abdullah in Semporna, many locals were reluctant to climb the hill due to the frequent discovery of human bones there in the past.

Pic: archaeological museum at the entrance of Bukit Tengkorak

Bukit Tengkorak is only about 10 Kilometres away from Semporna town and the tour takes less than 2 hours, so I can’t find any reason not to drop by. The archaeological museum is a gallery with prehistoric artefacts. The entry is free. For a better experience, you would need a tour guide who can tell you the interesting features of this place.

The admission is free, but you need to register before entering the archaeological heritage site.

Pic: this is the wooden staircase to reach the top of 500-feet-high Bukit Tengkorak, where the excavation site is located. According to my tour guide, Kenneth, it is exactly 610 steps one way. Sound taxing but I went slow and didn’t feel really tired. There are some hungry mosquitoes around foothill, so please bring your insect repellent.

As you will walk under hot sun, you may apply sunblock lotion in advance. Bring some water with you, and raincoat, just in case. There are 4 shelters along the way, where you can rest and enjoy the beautiful view.

In the shelter, you may read the interpretation board (written in English and Malay) about the history of Bukit Tengkorak.

Bukit Tengkorak is one of the largest pottery making sites in Southeast Asia during the Neolithic period (about 3,000 years ago, between 4340 BC and 50 BC). Not only that, research also shows that people traveling between Borneo and New Britain in Melanesia (near Papua New Guinea), which was one of the longest trade routes (3,500 KM) in the world during that period. Archaeologists believe such long-distance sea trade and migration route left behind what is known as the Lapita culture of pottery, tools and ornaments. The old pottery manufacturing technology is still being used by the Bajau community in Semporna today.

Pic: before reaching the highest point, you already can see Semporna town. Seafest Hotel is clearly visible. Human has existed in Semporna since Paleolithic Period (about 10,000 years ago).

Pic: due to the volcanic soil, the vegetation on this hill is different from other parts of Sabah.

Pic: granite embedded in volcanic rock, an interesting geological trait on this hill.

You will find many pottery sherds along the way. It is estimated that more than 6 million prehistoric potsherds can be found all over this hill. Researchers also find large number of seashells covering Skull Hill. Some says they are washed up to the hill by super Tsunami, some says these are leftover discarded by ancestors.

Pic: the third shelter with open and wide view

The third shelter has an observatory platform, where you can have a panoramic view of Semporna and its surrounding area. In clear day, you can see Mabul Island.

Pic: The “Sleeping Old Man” islands, which is officially known as Semporna Islands Park or Tun Sakaran Marine Park, the largest marine park of Malaysia so far. It is a remnant of a huge volcanic explosion about 5 million years ago.

Pic: a huge limestone boulder next to shelter. I could sense that “something” was watching us.

Pic: we were moving toward the top. The last half of the hike is under the tree shade, so it is not too bad.

Finally, we were welcome by a congratulatory signboard on the top. Now we are 500 feet (152 Metres) above sea level. It takes only 30 minutes for anyone reasonably fit to get up here. FYI, there is no restaurant and toilet on the hill top.

I’m curious why ancestors want to live so high up on the hill. Some says high ground is more secure and this foothill has large clay deposit for making pottery.

Archaeological Heritage Site

Bukit Tengkorak is an important archaeological site in Southeast Asia because artefacts discovered here supports new hypothesis on ancient human migration.

Pic: Historians unearthed thousands of prehistoric pottery with various types of decorations in layers of ash here. This cave was probably a remnant of open kiln for firing pottery.

Pic: the excavation in year 2008

Pic: the items found on Bukit Tengkorak. I snapped these pictures on info board. They say the best pieces were transferred to Sabah Museum.

Pic: fragments of decorated pottery made using fingernails, shells and wood materials.

Besides hundreds of thousands of pieces of prehistoric pottery decorated with intricate patterns, another unique discovery from this hill is stone tools made of chert, agate and obsidian. Food remains comprising animal and fish bones and shellfish are also found.

Ancient Volcanic Rim

Ok, let’s close the boring history textbook and let me show you the opposite side of this hill. Now, open the geography textbook LOL.

Geological studies at Bukit Tengkorak and its surrounding areas have found that Bukit Tengkorak is part of the rim of a volcanic crater (see dotted red line) with a diameter of 2 kilometers. The rock formation at Bukit Tengkorak consists of andesitic volcanic breccia, and these rocks are believed to be remnants of volcanic eruptions that occurred during the Pliocene Epoch (5.3 to 1.8 million years ago). Source: Arkeologi Bukit Tengkorak, Sabah (Authored by Stephen Chia and Published by USM in 2016)

Bukit Tengkorak is actually part of the exposed rim of an ancient volcanic crater about 2 KM in diameter. The rock formation at Bukit Tengkorak consists of volcanic breccia, mostly andesitic rocks, and is believed to be the remnants of past volcanic eruptions which occurred during the Pliocene Period (5.3 to 1.8 million years ago).

Pic: Kenneth showed us a totally different world behind the hill

Pic: the last shelter

As Bukit Tengkorak is not a popular destination, there were only 9,000 visitors in year 2010. Anyway, because of its nice scenery (and quietness), Bukit Tengkorak has become a hot dating spot of local couples. Our visit may have interrupted a lot of intimate interactions there. Just kidding.

This forested hill is covered by grassland and surrounded by numerous isolated hills and mountains. I really love the green view (though the oil palm plantation spoils the view a bit).

I’ve travelled in most part of Sabah, but this place is so different. Though I didn’t find any treasure, the picturesque scenes are for me to keep in memory forever.

See the ridge dotted by dark boulders at a distance? It is the rim of a huge ancient volcano.

The dark boulders are volcanic rocks which are formed million years ago.

Pic: close-up of a volcanic rock

Pic: the huge boulder reminds me of Ayers Rock in Australia

I think geologists would be very interested in Bukit Tengkorak, as they can find volcanic rock, limestone, sandstone and granite in this hill.

Archaeological Museum of Bukit Tengkorak

For scuba divers who have enough of Nemo and corals deep underwater at islands of Semporna, a visit to Bukit Tengkorak is a great way to see Semporna high on a hill during long wait of preflight surface interval. For bird watchers, you have a good chance to spot Hooded Pitta.

How to Get There

Bukit Tengkorak is located at Jalan Tampi-Tampi (Tampi-Tampi Road), only 10 minutes drive away from Semporna town. When you approach SMK Agama Tun Sakaran school, look for the wooden arch next to the road. Just turn to that junction and you will reach the site in a few minutes (See location map).

Opening Hours: 9.00 am – 5.00 pm daily
Correspondence Address: Bukit Tengkorak Archaeological Site, C/O Muzium Wilayah Pantai Timur, 2nd Floor, Wisma Warisan, 90000 Sandakan, Sabah, Malaysia.
Tel: (+60) 089–222679
Contact Person: Mr. Juanis Ogak (East Coast Museum Curator)
Email: Juanis.Ogak@sabah.gov.my, Muzium.Sabah@sabah.gov.my

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Photos taken in Semporna, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Top 10 Adventures of Sabah

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Ssshhhh…. below is the list of Top 10 Adventures in Sabah, don’t tell your mom you will do it. Anyway, you can call yourself a true man if you are able to complete all these hardcore activities. 🙂

Sabah is really a land of Borneo adventures. Adventurers can choose to ~~die~~ explore in our ancient rainforest, high mountains, deep ocean, biodiversified wetlands, etc. :-p

Vote or Recommend your Favorite Adventures

Your vote and comment will perfect the list, so please feel free to contribute to this open list.

[listly id=”2AB” layout=”full”]

You are welcome to add new item to this list too. However, please allow me to remove item that is irrelevant or unfit for this category. Thank You~

Other Sabah’s Top 10

Hiking to Bukit Gundul (Bukit Botak), the Bald Hill

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If you are on the way to Sepangar, you would notice a beautiful green hill with “bald” top. That’s why the locals call it “Bukit Gundul” (or Bukit Botak), which means Bald Hill. As Gundul Hill is so different from other surrounding hills with lush trees, I joined a hiking trip to explore it last month.

Above: view of Gundul Hill from the road

There are two starting points to climb Gundul Hill, one from UiTM campus, another from a construction site, the one that we used. Since both points are inside private land, you need to ask for permission from owner to enter. The hill is a state land (owned by government).

Above: the starting point of our climb from a construction site. You can see our cars parked very far below.

There are very few shades along the trail so we started our hiking at 7:30 early in the morning, before the scorching sun rising high.

At first we walked 15 minutes in a wood at the foothill. Watch your steps as snake might be lurking around here. No, there is no forest leech.

Very soon we walked out of the wood and exposed to hash sunlight. It’s a good idea to bring an umbrella with you. At least put on your sun block.

The hiking trail is mild in steepness. The length of trail is about 1.5 Kilometers and takes less than an hour. It is not challenging but can be tiring. The main problem is the heat. Do bring 1 Litre of water with you to fight the dehydration.

Beware of sun stroke too. We take a rest whenever we find a shade to cool off our bodies. Despite the hot day, breeze is here to comfort.

We already can see the sea of Sepangar Bay and UMS mosque from the slope. The grass land looks like flat area. In fact, the elephant grass is as tall as our chest. Nobody can explain why there are so few trees on Gundul Hill. We saw pitcher plant, which grows on soil with poor nutrients. May be that’s why.

The view near the top is one of my favorite. It looks like a meeting point of blue sky and green hill, lovely.. Such scene is so unlike Sabah.

The last 500-Meter path is on a double-humped knoll.

Above: see the little bamboo tree in front? That’s the highest point of Gundul Hill.

Above: turn around I can see the Mt. Kinabalu, the highest mountain of Malaysia.

Bukit Gundul really lives up to its name (Bald Hill). There is no tree except a small bamboo tree on top of hill. All of us try to squeeze into the little shade offered by that small bamboo tree.

The view from the top of Gundul Hill is impressive! The hill is surrounded by forest, hills, sea, lake, mangrove and housing areas. We can see the port and navy base of Sepangar Bay. The height of Bukit Gundul is only 200 Meters, quite a small effort to get such a beautiful view.

To mark our “conquer” of Gundul Hill, we installed Sabah & Malaysia flags and plaque on the hill.

After a few rounds of group photo taking, we left Gundul Hill at 10am. Bukit Gundul is really a good place for a short hike. It is only known among a small group of local hikers. However, no travel agent offers tour package to climb this hill, so you have to organize the trip yourself.

You may watch the 40-sec video below to see the surrounding of Gundul Hill. You will see Malaysia Tourism Minister checked us out in a helicopter too:

More Photos

You may check out my photo album if you want to see more nice pictures:

Photos taken in Sepangar, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo