In the villages of Sabah and Sarawak, almost every house has a Kayu Tas (Tas Stick), My grandparents call it “snake beater stick” because snakes are really afraid of Kayu Tas. Kayu Tas is commonly for sale in local markets such as Tamu (native market) and Gaya Street Sunday Market. You can even buy it online now.
Kayu Tas is also known as Kayu Hujan Panas (Hot Rain Stick), Kayu Penunduk, Kayu Limpanas and God’s Mountain Stick. Locals believe that Kayu Tas possess mystic powers to protect the owner. Like yin and yang, Kayu Tas also has Betina (female) and Jantan (male) types, each has different magical powers.
Kayu Tas Jantan is darker and Kayu Tas Betina is lighter in color.
Kayu Tas Jantan is in dark color. It can ward off wild or venomous animals such as snake, centipede, scorpion, tiger and elephant, or even tame them. Carry a small chunk of it also prevents bad people to bother you. Some cyclists carry a Tas stick when they cycle in neighborhood roaming with aggressive dogs (please don’t hold me responsible if it doesn’t work). But you must not bring it to a fishing trip or all the fishes will run away from you.
Kayu Tas Betina is lighter in color and feared by evil spirits, so it’s good in blocking bad energy from ghost and jinx. It can be used as a traditional herb to cure some diseases too, for example, diarrhea and stomach ache.
Kayu Tas for sale in local market
Bind a small section of male and female sticks together and it becomes a lucky charm and amulet, to protect the owner from any harm and even bring good luck or business. Some use rosary made of Kayu Tas. Harry Potter would want to use Kayu Tas as his magic wand lol. However, it’s a taboo to whip someone with Kayu Tas.
Penan people believe that burning the skin or leaves of Kayu Tas during daytime can move the rain to somewhere else. The smoke also smells like incense, which can get rid of pest such as ants, cockroach and flies. Burning the skin of Kayu Tas Betina can keep the evil spirits at bay.
Product description of Kayu Tas (in Malay language)
The most highly graded Tas is Kayu Tas Pontianak from Kalimantan, which has the powers of Kayu Tas Jantan and Betina, but it’s rare. Kayu Penunduk Gajah / Gunung claims to have the power to soften the hardened hearts of human. You can carry the wood with you or leave it at home to guard your house.
Tas Kayu is abundant on Borneo Island. From what I search, Kayu Tas is a plant of Glochidion species (under Euphorbiaceae family). Peninsular Malaysia also has Kayu Tas but its aroma (stink actually) is different from the Borneo Tas wood (smell like spice), so it might be another species.
My first experience of crossing the Tamparuli hanging bridge was scary. I was frightened by the raging yellow river under my feet and cried loudly. My parents tried to coax me to move on but failed. Then my father asked me to close my eyes, and he carried me to other end of the bridge. I was about 6 or 7 years old that time. :-p
Left: signage to Tamparuli Bridge. Right: Kadazandusun girls crossing a hanging bridge carefully
The 200-Metre-long Tamparuli Suspension Bridge is made famous by the Kadazandusun (biggest indigenous tribe of Sabah) folk song “Jambatan Tamparuli” (jambatan means bridge) written by Justin Lusah in 1977. It’s also known as the Lover’s Bridge because of a heartbroken love story.
Walking on the Tamparuli Bridge. At the right is the busy Tamu market and Bukit Perahu (Ruhiang Hill). You also can see the tip of Mount Kinabalu behind the hill.
The romantic Jambatan Tamparuli song is in Kadazandusun language. Thanks to Ben Godomon! Below is his translation of the lyrics or you can listen to the Kadazandusun and Chinese versions of Jambatan Tamparuli performed by Cozzi Chong (雁卿), a popular Sino-Kadazan singer from Sabah:
I’m making a “Pak Pak” sound As I walk along the bridge The bridge of Tamparuli while wearing high-heeled shoes
[Note: a proper name for high-heeled shoes for men is probably “Cuban Heels”]
As I walk along the bridge The Bridge of Tamparuli I’m making a “Pak Pak” sound while wearing high-heeled shoes
But damn my shoes they fell off the bridge only socks are left which I brought home
[Note: “silaka” is “celaka” in Malay : “damn” is the closest equivalent to English that I can think of]
On Wednesday It’s the Tamu in Tamparuli I go around the shops Looking for high-heeled shoes
[Note: “Tamu” of course means “weekly open market” as is practised in Sabah]
Whenever listening to this song, I would visualize a lady walking carefully on the wobbly hanging bridge without her shoes. The holes between the planks can trap high heels so ladies please beware. However, this is not the same hanging bridge that inspired Justin Lusah to write the song. The “original” hanging bridge was washed away by flood in 1999.
You could have a nice view of surrounding of Tamparuli town on Tamparuli Suspension Bridge. The highest point is Ruhiang Hill (Bukit Perahu), a spot for hiking and paragliding during weekends. Mt. Kinabalu, the highest mountain of Malaysia, would show her face in good weather. On every Wednesday, there is a tamu (weekly open market, as described by the song) at Tamparuli town too.
Tamparuli Bridge with Linangkit and Lelawangan motif, the unique textile patterns of Lotud and Bajau respectively.
In 2021, Tamparuli Bridge received a facelift under the Linangkit Mural and Lelewangan Jambatan Gantung Tamparuli project. The artwork is completed by Tujuh Tompinai or 7T (means seven friends or teachers in Dusun language). The support posts and walls of the bridge are decorated with Linangkit motif and giant mural.
Mural of Tamparuli Bridge depicts the stories, legend, cultures and attractions of Tamparuli, an artwork of Tujuh Tompinai or 7T team (led by Saidina Atiman).
The top part of mural (see picture above) shows a group of Tantagas, the high priest of Lotud tribe and their world view – the end of the river is the edge of our world. The bottom mural displays the people (Lotud, Bajau, Chinese) and attractions (Bukit Perahu, Rumah Terbalik (Upside Down House), Murug Turug Waterfall, JonGrapevines & Figs Garden) of Tamparuli. Right mural represents the legend of Solungkoi. Left mural is to commemorate two brave British soldiers.
British Monument at Tamparuli Bridge. The inscription on the plaque says: This plaque is erected in Memory of: Private J.W.N. Hall RAMC and Driver D.C. Cooper RASC who lost their lives on 18th May 1960 in trying to save the life of a woman of Kampong Sayap, Kota Belud. (RAMC = Royal Army Medical Corps, RASC = Royal Army Service Corps)
In 1960, two British soldiers lost their lives when they tried to save the life of a woman from Kota Belud. Their Land Rover was swept by strong currents while crossing the old Tamparuli Bridge and three of them drowned. You can find the plaque about the incident behind the fruit & vegetables market near the bridge.
Tourists looking at the fishes under the Tamparuli Bridge
Unlike the traditional hanging bridge, the new bridge is supported by concrete pillars and steel cables, so rock solid that you can bring a full cup of coffee walking nearly 200 Meters to another end without spilling a drop. Not only that, there is mesh wire covering the lower part of the boardwalk, so it’s impossible to drop your shoe like the lady in the song, unless you purposely throw it into the river.
Left: story of Solungkoi. Middle: drawing about the song Jambatan Tamparuli. Right: playing the music on the bridge
Nonetheless, the construction of old Tamparuli bridge posed a big challenge to British engineers in 1930s because it’s always destroyed by flood. Bobolian (local high priest) said that Tambuakar, the river spirit, was angry with the building of new bridge. To appease the spirit, a human sacrifice was demanded.
Old and new Tamparuli Bridges
Therefore, a fair maiden named Solungkoi was put into a jar and buried alive under the first pole of the bridge. After the offering, the bridge lasts until today, though it’s flooded by the rising river occasionally. Legend says the British engineer was in love with Solungkoi, making their love story sounds more tragic.
Old post-war shoplots of Tamparuli town
After you cross the bridge, you may take a walk in Tamparuli to get nostalgia with those old wooden shoplots of post-war era in town. For tourists who head to Kinabalu Park or Kiulu white water rafting, this is a nice mid-point to stop for a tea break and try the delicious Tamparuli fried noodle.
Another hanging bridge not far away from Tamparuli town
Standing majestically at 4,095 Meters (13,435 feet), Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain of Malaysia. Mt. Kinabalu derives its name from the Kadazan word, Aki Nabalu, meaning ‘the revered place of the dead’. It is one of the most conquerable peaks in the world. This guide will help you to reach the summit of Mount Kinabalu, with some info that travel agents don’t want you to know.
Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain of Borneo and Malaysia and part of Kinabalu Park. Kinabalu Park is now a Unesco Global Geopark.
The maximum number of climbers (daily quota) is 165 climbers per day.
Climb Permit fee is now RM400 for foreigner; RM100 for Malaysian. Half price if the climber is below 18 years old.
Child under 16 must be accompanied by a dedicated Mountain Guide. Each Mountain Guide can only take up to 2 children (or up to 5 adult climbers).
Mountain Guide who takes care of children will not guide adult climber. For example, if your group has 3 adult and a child (below 16) climbers, you must hire two mountain guides (one to take care of adults, another one for child only).
The rate of mountain guide service (mandatory) is RM350.
Porter service (optional) costs RM14 per Kilogram (Kg).
Mount Kinabalu’s specialty lies in its location at a renowned World Heritage Site – Kinabalu Park. Nature lovers will be delighted to be able to witness the many variations of flora and fauna that are to be found on the mountain at different altitudes.
1. How much does it cost?
Quick Answer:The lowest budget for climbing Mount Kinabalu is about RM1,019 (≈USD237) for Non-Malaysian Tourist and RM444 for Malaysian (Based on the rates of year 2023, for adult climber who shares guide fee with others). The cost includes accommodation (at Panalaban), meals, shared mountain guide fee, conservation fee, climb permit, and insurance. Please download the Excel file to see the itemized budget.
The Best Time to climb Mt. Kinabalu is between March and August, which are the dry seasons of Sabah. The peak season is Apr to Jun.
You can climb in other months, but try to avoid Dec and Jan, which are the wettest months, due to the North-East Monsoon
The mountain accommodation area (known as Panalaban), where Laban Rata Rest House and hostels located, is 2.72 KM before the summit of Mt. Kinabalu. Most climbers overnight here before conquering Mt. Kinabalu in next morning.
If you are not allowed to climb to the summit of Mt. Kinabalu due to bad weather, there is No Refund.
Panalaban is the area where mountain accommodations located. It’s called Laban Rata previously.
How to Book a Climb Package
Booking the one-night Accommodation at Panalaban (formerly Laban Rata) is the FIRST step. You can’t climb Mt. Kinabalu if you haven’t reserved any room on the mountain. Camping on the mountain is not allowed.
Important notes:
You must book at least 6 months in advance. The park allows only 80 climbers to climb per day, due to conservation and limited rooms, so the accommodation is always fully booked.
Never, I repeat, never book with any individual who claims that he is a guide and can offer you very low price. Many tourists have been scammed and lost their money. Only book with licensed travel agents and legitimate operators (i.e. Sutera Sanctuary Lodge and Sabah Parks).
Conquering Mt. Kinabalu requires only 2 days 1 night.
However, to let climbers to get used to high altitude, Sutera Sanctuary Lodges (management of Laban Rata Resthouse) usually sells you 3-day-2-night accommodation (with 1 extra night at Kinabalu Park, foothill of Mt. Kinabalu).
The cheaper accommodations, Panar Laban Hut, Waras Hut, Panalaban Hostels and Lemaing Hostel are next to Laban Rata Resthouse.
All accommodation package is inclusive of full meals (buffet style).
Next to Laban Rata Resthouse, Lemaing Hostel and Panalaban Hostels are new (and cheaper) accommodation available to climbers. Lemaing Hostel is only open to Malaysian climbers, and Panalaban Hostels is open to both Malaysian and international climbers. You can book the accommodation directly with Sabah Parks, the management of these hostels. Please note you need to to pay other mandatory fees such as climb permit, insurance and guide fee, besides the meals and accommodation there.
Accommodations on Mount Kinabalu (Panalaban). Mokodou and Kinotoki are under Panalaban Hostels. Photo courtesy of Sabah Parks.
A) Lemaing Hostel (for Malaysian only)
Open in 2014, this hostel has 75 bunk beds . (RM is Malaysian Ringgit (MYR). USD1.00 can exchange about RM4.20) Accommodation & Meals: RM340 Insurance: RM10 Climb Permit: RM100 (adult), RM50 (below 18)
Left: Bunk Beds of Lemaing Hostel. Right: Beds of Panalaban Hostels. Both hostels have shared bathroom and toilet. Latest check-out time is 10:30am.
B) Panalaban Hostels (for Malaysian and Foreigner)
Open in 2019, Panalaban Hostels (Kinotoki and Mokodou) can accommodate 50 climbers. Accommodation & Meals: RM430 Insurance: RM10 Climb Permit: (Malaysian rate) RM100 (adult), RM50 (below 18); (Foreigner Rate) RM400 (adult), RM200 (below 18)
Climbing and accommodation fees (year 2023) of Panalaban (left) and Lemaing (right) Hostels. Note: Lemaing Hostel is open for Malaysians only.
Online Booking is available in website of Sutera Sanctuary Lodges. You may drop by the office of SSL, which is located in ground floor of Sutera Avenue. Besides booking, the friendly staffs can answer all your questions on the spot. They can arrange full transport service for you too (the fees are quite high though).
4. Mountain TORQ
You can join the Via Ferrata tour by Mountain TORQ (Facebook: @MountainTorqGroup), which has a rock climbing training centre and accommodation (Pendant Hut) at Panalaban. However, you need to be really fit.
Trail map to the summit of Mount Kinabalu. There are two summit routes, Ranau Trail and Kota Belud Trail, and both start from Panalaban. Ranau trail is the default route as it’s easier to climb.
Itinerary of the Climb
Below is a run-down of the 3-day-2-night climbing tour in brief.
Day 1
Check-in to overnight at Kinabalu Park (see location map), which is 88 KM away from Kota Kinabalu (KK). The extra night helps your body to adapt to the height so you will be less vulnerable to Altitude Sickness (acute mountain sickness) in the climb next day. Here is a list of accommodations near Kinabalu Park.
Day 2
9am: Bring your ID card (e.g. MyKad), invoice and QR Code of confirmed booking. Register and pay fees (climb permit, insurance, guide, etc.) by cash to Sabah Parks at Kinabalu Park HQ. Collect your name tag (climb permit) and packed lunch (usually consists of sandwiches, candy bar and a fruit, with a small bottle of drinking water), then meet your guide and porter (if hired). You also can arrange the return transport (by shuttle van) there to transfer you between gate and park for a fee. Be there before 10:30am or they won’t allow you to climb. 9:30am: Transfer to Timpohon Gate, the starting point of the climb. 10am: Start of Climb, after briefing by guide! 4pm: Reach Panalaban after 6 KM. Usually it takes 6 to 8 hours, depend on your fitness. – Dinner buffet at Laban Rata Rest House (closed by 7:30pm) – Overnight at the rest house or hostels of Panalaban
Left: Registration, fee payment, return transport and hiring of guide / porter are done at the left side of Kinabalu Park HQ (see yellow arrow). Right: climbers meet their mountain guide, and hand over part of their baggage to the porters.
Day 3
2am: Gather and having breakfast at Laban Rata Rest House, then head to the summit (2.75 KM one way). (The park may not allow you to climb in bad weather) 6am: Reaching the summit (Low’s Peak) of Mount Kinabalu 7am: Descending to Panalaban 10am: Check-out and descend to Kinabalu Park 2:00pm: Back to Kota Kinabalu City
This can be you. Just imagine.
Photo Walk-through
Below are the photo walk-through of the 2-day climb in chronological order. Standard climb will use the Ranau summit trail (open on 1 Dec 2015). Note: The starting point is in Kinabalu Park, not Ranau town! Or you can watch the video below:
Day 1: Climbing to Panalaban
The standard trail starts from the Timpohon Gate (1,800m / 5,906 ft) which is about 4 KM away from the Kinabalu Park Headquarters. The climb from Timpohon Gate to Panalaban (Laban Rata) normally takes 6 to 8 hours (for 6 KM). You can buy basic supply such as snacks, drink and raincoat in the small shop inside the building.
Left: Timpohon Gate, the starting point of the climb. Right: public toilet 50 Metres before Timpohon Gate
There is a signage or trail marker every 0.5 or 1 KM to show you how far you climb. Use them to motivate yourself.
Left: You will see the small Carson Waterfall fairly soon. Middle & Right: Signage and trail marker along the trail.
Before reaching Panalaban (3,273m / 10,738 ft above sea level), climbers can stop and rest at seven shelters (pondok) along the way — Pondok Kandis, Pondok Ubah, Pondok Lowii, Pondok Mempening, Layang-Layang, Pondok Villosa, and Pondok Paka.
There is a shelter every 1 KM, where you can take a break, refill water (untreated spring water), use the toilet and dump your trash. Around noon time, most climbers are half-way up there and have their lunch at Mempening or Layang-Layang Shelter. The cute and friendly Bornean Mountain Ground Squirrel (Dremomys everetti) would approach you for food. Please don’t feed them!
The trails to Panalaban look like these most of the time.
The 6-Kilometre trail to Panalaban is clear and in moderate steepness most of the time. All steep sections have support such as hand rail and stairway. You will feel more like walking on endless staircase than climbing. Just go slow and enjoy the scenic view. As you move higher, you can feel the drop of temperature and the surrounding is getting more and more foggy. The ground is covered with green mosses and many trees and shrubs have epiphytes and lichens on them. What you experience is a walk in the cloud forest (montane forest), which grows above 1,800 Metres above sea level.
Some interesting plant along the summit trail of Kinabalu Park. The pink flower is Kinabalu Balsam (Impatiens kinabaluensis), which is endemic to Borneo and quite common in first 2 KM of summit trail. The highlight is the pitcher plant (Nepenthes villosa).
Along the trails, be sure to keep your eyes open for the plenteous interesting vegetation to check out. The unique ecology is what makes Kinabalu Park the UNESCO World Heritage Site, not just the Mt. Kinabalu. Kinabalu Park has the highest density of orchid species in the world. Climbers could spot blooming orchid and rhododendron next to the trail. After 4 KM, pay attention to your left and look for the big and bright-color Nepenthes villosa pitcher plant in the shrubs. This species is endemic to Kinabalu Park of Sabah.
The rocks on the “yellow path” are ancient old rocks.
Between 4 and 5 KM is a long section of trail in yellow colour. These yellowish rocks are 40-million-year-old ultrabasic or ultramafic rocks. This area is dominated by dwarf and crooked trees (Leptospermum recurvum), some are over a hundred years old. This tree is one of the few plant that can adapt to the toxic ultrabasic soil.
If you reach the trail with many big granite boulders laying around, you are near to Panalaban.
When you see many big dark-grey boulders on the trail, congratulations! Though Panalaban is only a Kilometre away now, the trail is quite steep from now on. These boulders are slippery after rain so watch your steps. A walking pole will help you to balance.
Panalaban is the ending point of your climb on day 1. The building at the left is Laban Rata Resthouse.
Hooray! You are now 3,272 metres above sea level. This is the place where climbers spend a night. The restaurant of Laban Rata Resthouse is where you claim your warm buffet meals. You better reach Panalaban before the restaurant closes at 7:30pm. Ala carte meals are available too.
Restaurant in Laban Rata Resthouse (Opening Hours: 7:30am-7:30pm and 2:00am-3:30am)
The scenery at Panalaban is fantastic! Just enjoy the view with a cup of coffee at the balcony, and look at the dense cloud under your feet. The sunset view at Panalaban is one of the best in Sabah. There is a small shop in the restaurant that sells items such as snacks, instant noodle, drink, poncho, medicines, postcards, etc. but at a higher price.
Left: sending postcards from the highest postbox in Malaysia. Right: amazing sunset at Panalaban
FYI, you can send postcard from the highest post box of Malaysia, which is located next to Pendant Hut in Panalaban. There are overnight accommodations provided for climbers on the mountain (Laban Rata Rest House, Waras Hut, Lemaing Hostel and Panalaban Hostels). The rooms are humbly decorated but are comfortably equipped thick blankets, bunk beds, as well as clean drinking water.
Left: bunk bed of Lemaing Hostel. Right: It’s cold at Panalaban.
The temperature at Panalaban can drop below 10°C (50°F) and a windy day makes it worse. Except some premium rooms in Laban Rata Resthouse, most rooms don’t have any heater. The water heater doesn’t always work. Tell you a secret. Many climbers skip shower because it’s too cold.
Good Night! Sleep earlier because you need to wake up very early next day.
“Though perhaps not the highest mountain in the world, it is of immense height” (captain Alexander Dalrymple, 1769)
Please note this walk-through only covers the standard summit trail named Ranau Trail. If you want to know more about another new summit trail, which is more challenging, please read this page about Kota Belud Trail.
Day 2: Conquering Mount Kinabalu
The climb to the summit resumes at 2am the next morning. The climb from Panalaban to the summit is about 2.72 KM and normally takes 4 to 5 hours. To cut down weight, you can leave the unnecessary stuffs in your room. There is no water point on the way (except Sayat-Sayat checkpoint). Carrying 1 Litre of water is quite enough as you won’t feel really thirsty under cold temperature. You also need torchlight (or LED headlamp), warm clothing and poncho.
Left: In Ranau Trail, you can see the night view of Ranau town. Right: Boardwalk of Ranau trail
After briefing by your mountain guide, the ascend will start with nearly two hours of steep staircase climbing in the dark. The only way is up. You can see long line of torchlight of other climbers. You will be tired, stop and gasping for air for many times. Without air and light pollution, the sky is full of stars, a beautiful view you will never forget.
Ranau trail of Mount Kinabalu, not difficult but tiring.Left: The rope section. Right: Sayat-Sayat Checkpoint
Then you will come to the rope section, the most challenging part that requires you to hold onto a rope to move up for a few hundreds metres. Soon you will be happy to see the Sayat-Sayat checkpoint. Climbers can rest there for a while and use the last toilet on the mountain trail.
Left: Rockface path. Right: The bald surface on Mount Kinabalu
After Sayat-Sayat, the trail will be mainly rock surface with 15 to 20 degrees of inclination. The dense vegetation is replaced by scarce summit plant on the bald granite ground.
Left: South Peak in the RM100 bill of Malaysia. Right: friendly climbers from Peninsular Malaysia
Anyway, the scenery just gets better at this point. In fact, it’s one of the most beautiful places in Malaysia. You are like wandering in another planet and admire the jagged peaks around you. The most photogenic peaks are the Donkey Ears Peak and South Peak.
Left: Signage at 8th KM. Right: Wishing Pool under Low’s Peak, always filled with coins
The air on the mountain is 20% thinner near the top of Mount Kinabalu. You will feel that your body is heavy and every move takes a lot of energy. Due to exhaustion, nine out of ten climbers would start to curse and say “why am I doing here?”. Though they complain, after the climb they will miss this mountain and come back again lol.
Low’s Peak, the highest peak of Mount Kinabalu, and the final ending point of the climb
After the 8 KM signage, the summit on Low’s Peak is less than a Kilometre away. Your goal is simple, just keep moving slowly in steady pace. The last two hundreds of rope climbing to this highest peak will drain your last energy reserve. The sweet reward is reserved to those who persist. Conquering Mount Kinabalu is once in a lifetime experience and must be in your bucket list.
Tasting the victory: spectacular view on the summit of Mount Kinabalu. Bonus: If you reach the peak before 6am, you will be rewarded by the beautiful sunrise view on the highest mountain of Borneo.
About 50,000 climbers leaves their footsteps on Mount Kinabalu annually. Despite the struggle, none of them shows the face of regret on the top. You have only an hour to enjoy the moment of your sweet victory, because the guide will ask you to leave the summit before 8am, before the mountain covered in dense fog (poor visibility).
Left: sub-alpine vegetation on Mount Kinabalu. Right: Aki View Platform
When you hike back to your hostel in Panalaban, do slow down a bit to appreciate the unique plant and flowers during the descend. Without daylight in night climb, you didn’t realise that you were surrounded by the most valuable eco-treasures of Borneo.
Left: Old man’s beard Fruticose lichen (Usnea) on the trees. Right: Kinabalu Park is a garden rich of plant species
Lastly, don’t forget to collect your certificate (for a fee) at Kinabalu Park office as a proof of your successful climb.
Tips and Advice
Pack Light. Don’t carry more than 6 Kg of weight for the climb. Those bringing huge backpacks can hire a porter (for a fee) to reduce the burden. Your porter will head straight to Panalaban in great speed and won’t be walking next to the slow you, so do not let them carry your water and raincoat.
The climate is cool with an average temperature range of 15°C to 24°C (59°F to 75°F) at the Kinabalu Park Headquarters and 6°C to 10°C (42°F to 50°F) on the mountain. It can even go down to freezing point in coldest months (Nov-Dec). Climbers are recommended to wear breathable cotton clothing and comfortable pair of hiking shoes.
Climbers are also reminded to be ready with torch lights, raincoats and warm clothes in case it rains and the temperature drops.
Descending stresses your knee and muscle more than ascending. Try to descend slowly to avoid serious joint and muscle pain later.
Trail can be slippery after rain. Wear comfortable trekking or hiking shoes with good grip (best if it’s waterproof).
Stay with your group and Mountain Guide at all times. Never walk off trail.
Don’t climb if you have ailments such as asthma, hypertension, diabetes, heart disease and other sickness that severely affects your fitness.
Always book the tour with licensed tour agent. There have been many cases tourists cheated by unlicensed agents.
Mt. Kinabalu is the Sacred Mountain (resting place of the deceased) of Sabah. Please be respectful and refrain from doing anything offensive such as taking nude photo.
Follow the social media of Sabah Parks for latest update on travel restriction. Currently, only our locals can climb the mountain.
Climbing outfit: Day 1 vs Day 2. You don’t need thick clothing for climbing on day 1, but pack a warm jacket in your bag. On day 2, you need to prepare for near freezing point temperature. You must have poncho or water resistant clothing in case it rains.
Things to Bring
Passport / MyKad (for registration)
Proof of Accommodation Booking and Payment
Cash (most transactions are by cash)
Drinking Water (in Refillable 1 Litre water bottle)
LED Headlamp (head torch)
Energy Bars / Chocolate Bars
Light Backpack (preferably with rain cover)
Raincoat / Poncho (Murphy’s Law says it’ll rain if you don’t bring one)
Kota Kinabalu City (KK) is the gateway to Sabah. Some of our islands are only 15 minutes away from KK by boat. In KK, there are three boat / ferry terminals that can take you to most Sabah islands at west coast. However, their services and charges are slightly different to one another. All of them opens from 8am to 5pm every day (boat service ends about 4:00pm).
Pic: map of 3 boat terminals (green) and neighboring islands of KK
1. Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal
Jesselton Point is the most popular public ferry terminal at the edge of KK city centre, and it’s packed with local and foreign tourists during weekends. If you stay in KK city centre, it is within walking distance.
Pic: entrance of Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal. The building at the right is ticketing hall.
Their boat service can start as early as 7:30am in weekends, but the boat only moves after it’s full with passengers (about 10 to 12 people). If you go in big group, you can negotiate for discount. Their fares are the cheapest so most people use their boat service to visit islands off KK.
Pic: the ticket counters run by over 10 operators competing with one another. This is the place where you buy return boat fare.
Pic: after you buy the ticket, you can sit in the hall (toilet is at the left corner). They will inform you once the boat is full and ready to depart. The waiting time is short if there are many tourists.
Destinations
Below are a list of islands you can go from Jesselton Point:
You can tell them what time to pick you up for return. The last boat transfer is around 4pm.
Pic: jetty of Jesselton Point
Though their fare is the cheapest, the boatmen ride the speedboat like cowboy, making the trip very bumpy. Anyway, it’s only 15 minutes so most people can put up with this.
To go to Gayana Eco Resort or Bunga Raya Resort, you can book the tour at the office of these resort operators in this terminal. However, these resorts are private zone, they only allow resort guests to enter, unless you purchase a tour such as lunch package from them.
(Currently Not available) Labuan & Brunei
You can go to Labuan and Brunei from Jesselton Point. They have regular ferry service as the following:
KK → Labuan: departs at 8:00am daily (take 2.5 hours)
Labuan → Brunei: depart at 8:00am on Friday and Sunday (transit Labuan, take 6.5 hours)
You also can go to the following islands in west coast. Most operators will require you to book an island tour in advance, so they would or would not accept walk-in customers. Since these islands are far away, they usually use catamaran instead of speedboat.
Jesselton Point is more like an activity centre for tourists and locals. Besides island transfer, there are many things you can get or do here. You can charter a boat to go fishing or even fish at their jetty (for a fee). For islanders, they can rent snorkeling set (fin, snorkel, mask) before they depart to islands. You can park your car in the parking lot next to the terminal (for RM1 per hour).
Pic: Jesselton Point has some shops where tourists can buy sunblock lotion, swimwear, sunglass, flip-flop, swimming float, soft drink, snacks, insect repellent, beach mat, souvenirs, etc.
Pic: there are good variety of food and beverages in their hawker centre.
Sutera Harbour Marina Jetty is a harbour between Pacific Sutera Hotel and Magellan Sutera Resort. Going to islands is very convenient if you stay in one of these hotels (which is 3 KM away from KK City Centre). The services also open to public. Some locals also like the ample free parking space there.
Pic: Sutera Harbour is a beautiful port parked with many private yacht port and sailboats. At the background is Pacific Sutera Hotel.
Pic: at the right are the kiosks of tour operators who offer boat transfer and island tour. The popular agents here are Sea Quest and Summer Cruise Holiday.
Same as Jesselton Point, they also offer island transfer to Manukan, Sapi and Mamutik Island. The return fare costs RM60 (≈US$16.75) per adult and RM30 (≈US$9) per Child, which has included jetty fee. Conservation Fee (entry to island) is not included. Island hopping is available for an additional fee of RM10 (≈US$3) per island. The fare may be slightly higher than Jesselton Point, but I like them for a few reasons:
Their staff and boatman are more professional (less bumpy ride).
The boat departs on time at fixed schedule (no matter it’s full or not).
They have staff stations on island to guide you if required.
The boat looks newer or well-maintained.
Other Islands
They also offer trip to the following islands (required booking of island tour in advance).
Besides boat transfer and island tour, they have watersport centre that offers diving courses / services, parasailing, jetski, flyfish, banana boat ride, sea-walking, kayak, sunset cruise, fishing, etc. The harbor also has short and long term rental berthing services for boats.
STAR Marina is located behind Shangri-la Tanjung Aru Resort (STAR) and operated by Borneo Divers, about 7KM away from KK. They offer full-fledged professional services on all island tours and watersports, not just boat transfer.
They have fixed schedule to these islands. The fee of return boat transfer is RM65 (≈US$19.50) for Adult and RM40 (≈US$12) for Child (12 & below), which includes 10% service tax. You can purchase optional items such as picnic box for RM50 (≈US$15) and snorkel gears. You may download the brochure of Island Transfer Services for details. They are willing to provide extra service such as sending you to the best spot for snorkeling.
Pic: 60-Metre-long jetty designed by Design B.U.BE from Singapore
Pic: air-conditioned service centre of STAR Marina
Pic: tour service counters of STAR Marina
Pic: snorkeling set for rent
Pic: they also look after your belonging during the island trip, or you may keep some of your things in the locker in STAR Marina.
Amenities
You can find the most complete motorised and non-motorised watersport activities in STAR Marina. Just to list some, diving (and PADI certitication courses), coastal and deep-sea fishing at Mengalum Island and Pulau Tiga Island, windsurfing, jet-ski, waterski, wakeboard, ocean kayak, paddle board, banana boat, Hobie Cat (a small sailing catamaran).
Pic: Dive centre of STAR Marina
To learn more detail about the activities, you may download the following brochures:
A word of cautious to those who want to get island transfer other than the three locations I mentioned above. There are some illegal and unlicensed boat operators around KK Central Market and Wisma Merdeka Shopping Mall lobbying ignorant tourists to employ their services. In one case, a group of tourists were robbed and left on an island. I would say they are lucky because it can be worse, e.g. kidnap, rape (though these haven’t happened yet).
Photos taken in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
About 40 years ago, a young Japanese boy named Satoshi Tajiri was so fascinated by insects that he loved to explore the forest for collecting bugs. In the early 1990s, inspired by the world of insects, Satoshi invented the wildly successful Pokémon video game and you know the rest of the story. If humans are afraid of insects, there would be no Pokémon game, and also no life-changing discoveries such as honey bees and silkworms.
Insect is a source of inspiration for science, artworks, fashion, movies and even games.
Borneo island is the kingdom of insects and bugs, and it offers far more variety of bugs than what Satoshi saw in his childhood. Some of the insects become an attraction, for example, firefly Christmas trees, Gombizau Honey Bee Farm, butod (sago grub).
Insects of Nuluhon Trusmadi forest reserve. In peak seasons, you could see more than 5,000 species of insects there. Photos by LeeLing
The best place to see insects of Borneo is at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp, located in Nuluhon Trusmadi, a 74,736-hectare (747 KM2) Class I (fully protected) forest reserve in Keningau and where Mount Trus Madi, the second highest mountain of Malaysia situated. I had a wonderful time at the camp just two weeks ago.
20 awesome (or weird) things I saw at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp
A trip to Borneo Jungle Girl Camp is a dream vacation for nature lovers, entomologists, and macro photographers. I’ve visited most rainforest of Sabah and thought there would be nothing new. I was wrong. I was awed by the insect world during my 2-day-1-night trip in the forest of Nuluhon Trusmadi. I just share 20 of them below.
1. Jewel Beetles, the gems of rainforest
Many beetles in Nuluhon Trusmadi are endemic to Borneo and some of them are not named yet. Different beetles seem like wearing armoured wings made of various materials such as wood, marble, metals and leather.
Jewel beetles at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp. Photo by LeeLing
The most remarkable group is the jewel beetles that have a metallic iridescence body. Some rhinoceros, stag, scarab and long-horned beetles of Borneo have such shiny shells. Jewel beetles are the most sought-after trophies by insect collectors and the rare ones can be worth as much as jewelry in black market.
Shiny green scarab beetle of Sabah (species: Pseudochalcothes planiuscula). Photo by LeeLing
Note: you are forbidden to collect any specimen in the protected forest.
2. Pitcher plant with “eyes”
On the way to the camp, there is a rockface area that is almost fully covered by clumps of pitcher plant. The species of this carnivorous plant is Nepenthes reinwardtiana, which is native to Borneo and Sumatra and is unique for the two “eye spots” on the inside surface of its pitchers. Nepenthes reinwardtiana has many different colour forms. In Sarawak, it’s red colour.
Nepenthes reinwardtiana can be found in lowland and highland but is fairly uncommon. The eyespots (see red arrow) are its trademark.
3. Meet the most elegant flying insect
Look like a kite, Moon moth or Luna moth (species: Actias selene vandenberghi and Actias maenas diana) is the most elegant flying insect of Borneo and it has the longest wing tails in insect world. Its swaying long tails are to confuse the predators such as bats, which would target its tails instead of the body. Moth moon is quite rare and I’m glad to see it twice at the camp.
Two types of Moon moths. Left: Actias selene vandenberghi. Right: Actias maenas
4. Flying dead leaves?
How on earth can some moths be so identical to dry leaves? The best camouflage trick human can pull off is a ghillie suit and it’s not even close to these dead leaf moths. Some moths even have holes on their wings to mimic a decayed foliage perfectly!
Borneo moths that mimic the shapes and colours of leaf
5. Praying Mantis, the Master of Stealth
The lethal claws makes Kungfu mantis the apex predator of the insect world. Some species take it to next level by being stealth to ambush their prey. They even rock back and forth to imitate the movement of leaves in wind. Praying mantis also can turn their heads 180 degree to scan their surrounding. Insects in range only can pray for their lives.
Praying mantis in different camouflage. Top: Toxodera hauseri, Bottom: Deropatlys truncata
6. Frog with horns. Is it evil?
Before the trip, I haven’t seen any horned frogs that are endemic to Borneo, so it’s high on my bucket list. Believe it or not. In a rainy evening, one of them just jumped to me in the camp. The one I met is known as the rough-backed horned frog (species: Borneophyrs edwardinae). It’s a brown-coloured medium-sized frog with horns above its eyes. Actually the “horn” is a drawn-out, slender, triangular projection from the eyelid. Horned frogs don’t intend to look like a devil, they need that leaf-like horns to hide among foliage.
Rough-backed horned frog (species: Borneophyrs edwardinae) is endemic to Borneo.
7. Hide and seek with leaf mimic pygmy grasshoppers
Though this insect is tiny and not as flamboyant as other famous insects, it’s a superstar among entomologists who love extraordinary insects. There are only four Borneo species of leaf mimic pygmy grasshoppers and you can find 2 or 3 of them just 15 metres outside the camp!
Leaf mimic pygmy grasshoppers (Paraphyllum antennatum) of Borneo. They are about 1cm in size but they have patterns and colouration that look like an art.
This is exciting as they have very limited distribution. However, it’s fairly hard to spot them as their colours blend into rock faces where they feed on algae. Put them under the magnifying glass and you would see something like a Sail-Backed Dimetrodon (dinosaur).
8. Moth that deceives with pictures
Besides camouflage, moths have another mean to fool predators. Many of them have “faked eyes” on their wings so they look like an owl or snake head.
Left: Macrocilix maia, with pictures of feeding flies on its wings. Right: the eye-like marking on the wings of Brahmid Moth (Brahmaea hearseyi) makes it looks like an owl.
The funniest strategy is employed by Macrocilix maia, a moth with wings that feature a picture of two flies feeding on a poo, to show that it is not delicious. It’s always jaw-dropping to see the work of nature. Who knows in future we would find a moth with a painting of Mona Lisa on its wings.
9. Misty cloud forest is a heaven for insects
Borneo Jungle Girl Camp is located about 1,170 metres above sea level, a highland zone dominated by lower montane forest (cloud forest). The dense forest is showered by fog, so the environment is cooling and humid, the most ideal habitat for insects, as many of them migrate uphill due to global warming and pesticides.
Borneo Jungle Girl Camp and its natural surrounding. The white things on the clear ground at the right are light traps.
Even if some tourists are not fond of bugs, they still come here for the refreshing air and nature touch.
10. Light trap, a magnet to insects
One of the fun activities at the camp is to check out the light traps at night. You know insects are attracted to light. Four light traps are set up on four corners of a ridge in the evening, then we went for dinner and waited for the insect show. We might lure some rare bugs out of the wood without searching hard.
There are four entomology light traps about 150 metres away from the camp. Photos by LeeLing
By the time we came back around midnight, the screens were already blanketed by hundreds of nocturnal bugs of different colours, sizes and shapes. Most of them are moths, with stick insects, beetles, mantis, cricket, grasshoppers, cicada, and katydid among them. Jimmy the camp manager, smiled and said, “in peak season between March and May, the screens would be totally covered and swarmed by insects. You couldn’t even walk near them.”
11. Moths are more diverse than butterflies
The light trap is like a stage for a fashion show by moths. Moths form a very large group, with about 10,000 species in Borneo, in different sizes, colours and forms. You are lucky if you see the gigantic Atlas Moth (species: Attacus atlas) with a wing span of 25 cm, which is among the biggest insects in the world.
There are about 10,000 species of moths in Borneo. Many species are yet to be fully described. The picture at the far left shows some big jet moths with aerodynamic shape.
Hawkmoth is a common visitor too, it’s nicknamed as Jet because of its hawk-like aerodynamic shape and super flying speed of 50 KM/H, the fastest in the insect Olympic. Some moths look like they are wearing a fur coat or Halloween costumes.
Altas moth is the largest insect in Borneo. Two variations of Altas Moth can be found at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp. Left: Attacus atlas, Right: Archaeoattacus staudingeri. Note their wing tips look like snake head. Photos by LeeLing
12. Crab + Spider = ?
You know crab and spider have eight legs but they are totally different creatures. If you can “merge” them, it would look like Crab Spider, Jewel Spider, or Parallel-spined Spiny Orbweaver Spider (Gasteracantha diardi). Despite its intimidating appearance, this spider is harmless to humans.
The bright-coloured Crab Spider is one of the most beautiful spiders in nature
Crab spiders fluoresce blue under ultraviolet light, which is to simulate the blooming flowers for luring the insects that use UV vision. You can bring some crab spiders to a disco night to see their cool UV effects.
13. Bird’s dropping that moves
Besides disguising themselves as a dead leaf or the eyes of predators, butterflies and moths have another camouflage tactic called “masquerade,” a defense that helps them look like inedible objects, such as twigs, stones or bird droppings. Bird’s dropping caterpillar is a great example of masquerade, which increases their survival rates by three times.
Bird’s dropping caterpillar looks and poses like a bird poo for a better survival rate. It doesn’t need to hide under the leaves.
Birds have better eyesight than humans, so it’s difficult to fool them. Therefore, a knobbly body with the correct poo colours isn’t enough. Some bird’s dropping caterpillars use bent posture to copy the look of a dollop of excrement.
14. Searching for peace and a sense of purpose? Go Stargazing
City people would think a description like “starry sky studded with diamonds” is just an exaggeration in the romance novels, until they visit a place that has no light and air pollution.
Milky Way in a starry night of Nuluhon Trusmadi Forest Reserve. Photo by LeeLing
Just come to Nuluhon Trusmadi during moonless days and witness it yourself. To see the Milky Way in its brightest time, the best months are between April and September.
15. Butterflies also loves smelly stuffs
Whenever we talk about butterflies, usually what comes to our mind is a picture of a butterfly foraging on a fragrant flower. What if I tell you that butterflies also love dung? On the way to the camp, I saw a group of butterflies sipping pee on the ground.
Butterflies puddling on the animal urine for minerals. The butterflies in the photos are: (1) Commander (Moduza procris agnata), (2) Abnormal Sergeant (Athyma clerica clerica), (3) Straight line mapwing (Cyrestis nivea borneensis), (4) Athyma selenophora amhara, and (5) Athyma assa pseudocama
In addition to the sweet nectar, butterflies also need some minerals (especially salt) and nutrients that are not available in flowers. You guessed it right. They obtain these from the pee and poo left by other animals. This strange behavior is called puddling, and is mostly seen in male butterflies, which need the materials for their reproduction system.
16. Stick insect the walking stick
At Borneo Jungle Girl Camp, don’t be surprised if you see a walking twig. Stick insect, as the name implies, is an insect that resembles a stick or twig, and it’s the longest insect in the world. Phobaeticus chani or Chan’s megastick, the second longest insect in world’s record (567 mm or 22.3 inches), is from Sabah. Their eggs are large and some village kids eat them like a snack.
Stick insect from Nuluhon Trusmadi. This one doesn’t have a name yet.
Some stick insects at the camp still wait to be named. Therefore, you can discover the new species there and name the ugly ones over your mother-in-law or boss. Some stick insects are capable of laying eggs without the need to mate with males to produce offspring. Crazy huh?
17. Birdwatching
Very few people know about this so it’s almost like a little secret. The montane forest near the camp is a great birdwatching site. Avid birders would be thrilled to see Bulwer’s pheasant, Bornean Pitta, Whitehead’s Broadbill, Red-naped Trogon, Red-bearded bee-eater and Black-and-yellow broadbill, just to list a few rare or famous ones.
Birds in Nuluhon Trusmadi forest. From left: Red-billed Malkoha, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Dark-necked tailorbird. Photos by LeeLing
If you are too lazy to walk, Temminck’s Sunbird, Bornean Bulbul and Bornean Laughing-thrush are always wondering near the camp.
18. Monkey loves bugs?
Monkey is omnivorous and banana is not its only food. But it’s only in my last trip that I first saw a pig-tailed macaque eating insects as a source of protein. It’s quite picky and only choose the big and juicy ones. The crunchy cicada sounds like its favourite snack and followed by jet moths.
Left: pig-tailed macaque eating insects. Right: the crime scene. You can tell most of them are big moths.
This monkey is one of the four macaques that always hang around the camp. They are probably old beta males that are expelled from the troop and form their own bachelor group. As a matter of fact, insects are nutrient-efficient compared to meat, and they may be the solution for the world hunger problem. It’s safe if our close cousins can eat it.
19. Cicada, the singing orchestra of rainforest
For the sound of rainforest, cicada is always the lead singer as it can produce a noise over 100 decibels, enough to cause hearing loss if you leave it singing next to your ears for long hours. The most interesting species is Pomponia merula, which is also known as Six O’Clock Cicada because they start buzzing at six. I want one as an alarm clock.
Left: 6 O’ Clock Cicada (Pomponia merula), native to Borneo. Photo by Pavel Kirillov. Right: 7 O’ Clock Cicada (Megapomponia imperatoria), photo by 57Andrew
Their counterpart in Peninsular Malaysia is 7 O’clock Cicada (Megapomponia imperatoria), which sings at 7pm (because sun sets 30 minutes slower in West Malaysia).
20. Borneo Jungle Girl Camp is more than a camp
After all the exciting activities in the forest, I only need a hot shower, some nice food and a cozy bed. I thought I was probably expecting too much from a jungle camp. A camping tent is more realistic in such a remote jungle. To my surprise, Borneo Jungle Girl Camp provides all these. They have clean and spacious bedrooms, and bathroom with hot shower. I have absolutely no problem (in fact, would love to) to stay over a month in the camp.
Borneo Jungle Girl Camp is located at 1,170 metres above sea level and surrounded by mountain range and rainforest
The food was yummy too and the cooling weather there boosted my appetite. During my stay, I had nasi lemak, BBQ, steamboat and even seafood. 4G network is available at certain spots in the camp. Electricity is available from 6pm to 6am.
We had fresh fish, meat, vegetables and fruit as lunch at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp, not instant noodle and canned food. We also had BBQ and steamboat the other day.
About Borneo Jungle Girl Camp
Borneo Jungle Girl Camp was established in 1986. With decades of experience in entomology, the founders believe that Nuluhon Trusmadi forest is the most ideal location for entomology studies and entotourism. During peak season, over 5,000 species of insects can be recorded at the site.
Building of Borneo Jungle Girl Camp. After a few expansion, the campsite is complete with electricity (half-day), bedrooms, dining hall, kitchen, toilets and other amenities.
Therefore, the founders spent most of their personal saving to fund the construction of the entomology camp, and they obtained the operation permit from the Sabah Forestry Department in 2006 for tourism, education and conservation on entomology. After a few phases of upgrade over the years, the humble camping tent is developed into a decent lodge complete with accommodation, dining hall, water and electricity, and other amenities that can host up to 60 guests. The camp has been an academic destination for hundreds of students from overseas universities in China and Japan, as well as local tourists who just want to chill.
Malay civet and porcupine, other residents around the campsite. You would see Kijang (barking deer), pig-tailed macaque, and slow loris too. Photos by LeeLing
As Borneo Jungle Girl Camp is situated in the fully protected Nuluhon Trusmadi forest, entry permits are required for visitors and vehicles, so walk-in tourists are not accepted. You can book a tour with Borneo Jungle Girl Camp and they will get the permit(s) for you. The following is the a list of the fees (USD1.00 is approximately RM4.40). Note: though these prices are valid until the end of 2022, they are subject to change:
Nationality
Entry Permit (per person)
Entry Permit (per vehicle)
Camera
Malaysian
RM15 per day
RM100
RM5
Non-Malaysian
RM30 per day
RM100
RM5
*rates are subject to change
Accommodation (meals included)
Room rates per head on twin-sharing basis:
Visitor Type
Standard Room
VIP Room
Chalet
Malaysian
RM300
RM400
RM450
Non-Malaysian
USD120
USD170
USD190
Room rates of Borneo Jungle Girl Camp (valid until the end of 2022)
Rooms are available at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp. You don’t need to bring your sleeping bag and pillow.
The temperature at the camp can drop to between 10 and 16°C (50 – 61°F) at night, so bring some warming clothing such as a windbreaker. Daytime temperature is between 28 to 30°C (82 to 86°F). To see more wildlife, spending two or more nights is recommended.
Sunrise view from the balcony of VIP rooms at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp
How to get there
The distance between Kota Kinabalu City and Borneo Jungle Girl Camp (GPS Coordinates: 5.443048041703671, 116.45120820208399. See Location Map) is about 160 KM, which takes 3 hours and 30 minutes to travel one way. The first 128 KM is asphalt road with fair condition. The last 32 KM to the camp starts at the junction to Jalan Ranggom Kepayan in Apin-Apin (Keningau), which is an old logging road (mainly gravel road) only accessible by four-wheel drive.
You need a 4-wheel drive to reach Borneo Jungle Girl Camp
Don’t worry if you don’t own a 4WD. You can request the camp for a 4WD return transfer for a fee of RM450 per car (can fit in up to 4 tourists). You can park your car in the village of Apin-Apin, and they will pick you up there. If you want them to fetch you in Kota Kinabalu, the fee is RM1,100 (round trip) per car.
Things to Bring
MyKad / Passport
Cash
Extra clothing (overnight trip)
Jacket or warm clothing
Raincoat / poncho / umbrella
Drinking water
Plastic bags (for soiled clothing)
Toilet paper
Toiletries (toothbrush, tooth paste, face wash, etc.)
Towel
Power bank (portable charger) and phone charging cable
Left: beetle with jewel colours, Right: Ceroplophana modigliani beetle
My Thoughts
Insects being insects, they just do what they ought to do. No insect is bad. Allah / God creates all living things for a purpose. The insects keep our earth balanced and healthy. It’s up to the people to choose if they want to appreciate bugs and become the next Satoshi Tajiri, or let the unjustified fear of insects turns them into a wuss.
“If all insects on Earth disappeared, within 50 years all life on Earth would end. If all human beings disappeared from the Earth, within 50 years all forms of life would flourish.” – Jonas Salk
If you ask Sabah people which delicacies are “Made in Sabah”, no doubt Tuaran Noodle (locally known as Tuaran Mee, 斗亚兰面 in Chinese), a traditional handmade egg noodle born in Tuaran town is on top of the list. Like Laksa to Penang, Kolo Mee to Sarawak, Tuaran Mee is the noodle representing Sabah state.
Tuaran Fried Noodle with slices of spring roll and cha-shao
Above is the picture of Tuaran Fried Noodle (Tuaran Mee Goreng). Tuaran Mee tastes best when it is fried and served hot with egg roll slices (春卷 in Chinese), roasted pork slices (or Cha-Shao, 叉烧 in Chinese) and local green vegetable. This golden-color noodle is rich with egg aroma. If prepared nicely, the noodle is crispy outside but soft inside.
Tuaran Mee can be cooked in different styles. Left: “Wet-fried” Tuaran Mee with gravy (湿炒). Right: Kon-Lau (Dry) Tuaran Mee (干捞)
When the food market nowadays is flooded with cheap and mediocre packed noodles, I do appreciate every bite of Tuaran Mee, which is created by people who insist on quality over quantity. Tuaran Mee is pure noodle, unlike those factory noodles consist of preservatives.
Tuaran fried noodle (Tuaran Mee Goreng) is over-fried a bit to make the noodle more crispy and springy
The repeated pounding in handmade process forms denser texture in the noodle. You will be surprised that Tuaran Mee can be stomach-filling even taken in small quantity.
Tuaran Mee served in different styles. The girl in the picture is Yuri Ishizeki, a Japanese Food Fighter. You can watch the video to see how she finished all the Tuaran Mee on the desk.
Besides fried noodle, Dried or “Konlau” (干捞 in Chinese) Tuaran Noodle (see photo above) is another popular way to enjoy Tuaran Mee. The cook first rinses the noodle in boiled soup until it turns soft, dry it and serve it in dark sauce. Personally I prefer the fried version.
Where to find the BEST Tuaran Mee?
Tuaran Mee costs about RM8 to RM10 (≈USD1.90 to USD2.30) a plate, and seafood flavours (with shrimps) is more expensive (RM12 or more). Based on the feedback, the No.1 favorite of locals is Tuaran Mee Restoran coffee shop in Tuaran town (see Location Map).
1. Tuaran Mee Restoran
Tel: +60 16-5849651 Opening Hours: 7am-2:30pm (closed every Monday)
Tuaran Mee Restoran in Tuaran. They also have a branch in Inanam
Tuaran Mee Restoran is named after Tuaran Mee, so you can assume that they are specialised in this noodle. This is evidenced by number of customers they have in shop. They must be doing very well because they also open a branch in Inanam (see Location Map).
Tuaran Fried Noodle of Tuaran Mee Restoran
2. Lok Kyun Restaurant (乐群酒家)
Ranked No.2 by locals are Restoran Lok Kyun, also located in Tuaran. It’s famous in Peninsular Malaysia because it was featured many times in TV such as Taste with Jason (阿贤), a popular food programme in AEC TV Channel.
Lok Kyun Restaurant (乐群酒家) is located in the middle of Tuaran town
Address: Shop No. 4, Block 8, Jalan Keogh, Tuaran, Sabah, Malaysia (see Location Map) Tel: +60 88-788441 / +60 19-8518632 Opening Hours: Tue-Sun: 7am – 2:30pm (closed every Monday) Though they also open in most public holiday, they close on major holidays such as Chinese New Year and Hari Raya.
Tuaran Mee by Lok Kyun Restaurant (乐群酒家)
Personally I love the ambience of having traditional food in an old kopitiam (coffee shop) in post-war wooden shoplot of Tuaran. They are not only good in Tuaran Mee. Their “Braised pork belly with taro” (芋头扣肉) and “Stuffed Beancurd” (酿豆腐) are also very famous.
3. Seng Hing Coffee Shop (成兴茶餐室)
Some of you may not want to drive 30 minutes to Tuaran town for the noodle. Luckily, you also can have Tuaran Mee in Kota Kinabalu city. One of the most recommended coffee shops for Tuaran Mee is Seng Hing Coffee Shop, which has over 40 years of history.
Seng Hing Coffee Shop (成兴茶餐室) is located in Sinsuran of Kota Kinabalu City Centre
Address: Block E, Lot 10, Sinsuran Complex, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia (see Location Map) Tel: +60 88-211594 / +60 19-8105255 Opening Hours: 7am – 4pm daily
Tuaran Mee by Seng Hing Coffee Shop (成兴茶餐室)
This kopitiam fries their Tuaran Mee with a bit of Lihing (rice wine), which gives the noodle a very pleasing aroma. I used to have lunch there every day and they never disappoint me. Seng Hing Coffee Shop is also popular for its Tom Yam Seafood Noodle.
The food stalls in pasar (market) of Tuaran town also cook really good Tuaran Mee, which is always sold out in the morning
Please feel free to post your favorite restaurant in comment section here, if you know any other nice places for Tuaran Mee.
Living in a stressful world, we need a place to wash away our worries. Scientific studies show that being near water gives us a powerful mental health boost. How about a water therapy at Taralamas River Canyon (also known as Tolungan Daralamas River Canyon), a 15-million-year-old canyon that is hidden deep inside the rainforest of Sabah? Its unique geological feature is a wow factor to visitors. Most people decide to visit Taralamas just by looking at its photos.
Taralamas River Canyon lit by the afternoon light
Taralamas River Canyon, which is formed earlier than Mount Kinabalu, is a work of water erosion. It’s a great canyon, though it’s not as big as Grand Canyon. Besides the interesting landscape, a trip to Taralamas allows you to enjoy various nature-based activities such as hiking, picnic and swimming that cover forest, river, waterfall and hill.
Standard Itinerary
Most visitors prefer a day trip at Taralamas River Canyon. The following is the standard itinerary (shortest trail). Please note you need to book the tour in advance. Walk-in tourists may not be accepted.
Walking on the village road and jungle trail in Tiang Lama Village
5am: Depart from Kota Kinabalu City (KK)
8am: Arrive Tiang Lama Village (in Ranau) and start hiking (3 KM)
10am: Reach Taralamas River Canyon (Lunch and river canyon walk there)
12pm: Going back to the Starting Point
2pm: Return to KK
6pm: Arrive KK
The downside of day trip is more than 7 hours of driving back and forth. You can consider spending a night in homestay of Tiang Lama (walking distance to the starting point) for a more relaxing experience.
Entering Taralamas River Canyon
Below is a useful walk-through with photos, or you can watch the video below:
Gather at Starting Point (at Tiang Lama Village)
The starting point of the hike is at the Community Hall near the end of Tiang Lama Village (or Kampung Tiang Lama) in Ranau district. Group of hikers congregate there between 7am and 9am. It’s better to start hiking in early morning, as it’s more likely to rain in the afternoon.
Starting point of the hike to Taralamas River Canyon
After you register and pay the operator, a village guide will be assigned to your group. Most guides are youngsters from the village. There is a small toilet near the hall, in case you want to relieve yourself before the 2-hour hike. A short briefing on Do & Don’t will be given before the hike begins.
At the hall are some stalls that sell food, (e.g. fried noodle, linopot packed rice, instant noodle, snacks, biscuit, pinjaram, hinompuka, traditional kuih), drink, fruits and vegetables. You can have your breakfast there and buy packed lunch from the villagers, as there is no restaurant at the canyon.
Start hiking to Taralamas River Canyon in the morning
The stalls are also around in the afternoon, so you can buy some fresh produce at a very reasonable or cheap price, before you head home. Depending on the season, you would find different fruits and vegetables such as durian, tuhau and rambutan.
Hiking to Taralamas River Canyon
Once everyone is prepared, we start hiking from the village. The morning at Tiang Lama Village is cooling and refreshing. Within minutes we come to the plantation in the mist.
Left: muddy trail, Middle: bamboo bridge, Right: trail near the local plantation
The temperature is about 25°C. You might need a jacket to keep warm in the beginning. Very soon you would feel warm after some walk among the dense shrubs and trees.
We choose the standard loop trail, which is 6 KM back and forth and the shortest hiking distance. If you want to visit the Sadoron Waterfall, it’ll be a total of 8 KM walk.
One way distance to the river canyon is about 3 Kilometres. The signage says follow your pace but don’t be slow.
Everyone start out dry and high in spirit. Just don’t expect to come out dry since you would face muddy trail, river canyon walk or rain later. Waterproof shoes such as Adidas Kampung would help a lot. Very likely you will need an extra pair of dry socks.
The trail is well-trodden. I’ve been to Taralamas twice and the muddy trail in the first 30 minutes is quite a drag, because the slippery trail on uneven ground can slow you down.
Interesting flora along the trail. Left: an ornamental plant (Alocasia cuprea), Middle: tall bamboo, Right: Begonia
After one KM, you will enter the secondary rainforest. If you are lucky, you would see flock of Rhinocerus hornbill flying over the canopy. There are some leeches but only a handful of them. Wearing anti-leech socks will keep them at bay. The deer fly is more annoying when they find you by the smell of your sweat. The presence of blood sucking bugs means the forest is rich with wildlife.
The view at the highest point of the hike. The last line of the signage says patient is a virtue.
Normally it takes about 1.5 hours to reach the river canyon 3 KM away. Overall the trail is not very challenging. Accident is rare. Only the one KM before the canyon is steep. The difficult sections have rope support. Ladies would need gloves to protect their skin while using the coarse ropes.
Anyway, you don’t need to rush. Just enjoy the view along the trail. I’ve seen Alocasia cuprea (ornmental plant), bamboo groves, Begonia, mushroom, fungus, big fern tree, and many unknown flora.
Reaching the River Canyon
After 3 KM, you will reach the river bank of Widu River. You are probably very excited, but please keep quiet. Making noise in the forest are taboos.
You can place your bag and belonging under the canvas shelter in case it rains. There is a small toilet nearby for you to change or doing your business.
Left: reaching the Taralamas River Canyon, Right: toilet next to the river
One of my favourite moment is to enjoy my linopot lunch by the river. During dry season, the river water is clear with emerald colour. I’m always tempted to collect the beautiful blue-grayish river rocks but this is forbidden (and would bring bad luck).
Some insects such as butterflies and bees attracted by our sweat. They land on our skin to harvest salt, which is a vital but rare mineral in the jungle. The bees won’t sting you unless provoked. But be careful and bring medicines (to treat anaphylactic shock) if you are allergic to bee stung.
Left: enjoy Linopot packed lunch next to the river, Right: crossing the river to enter the canyon
Butterflies are more timid and would target the fresh mud on our shoes. Entomologists will be pleased to find Borneo endemic species among them, for example, Bornean swallowtail (Graphium stratiotes) and Bornean sawtooth (Prioneris cornelia). I also see Bornean Straight Pierrot (Caleta manovus), Orange Gull (Cepora judith hespera), Grass Yellow, Green Dragontail, Mormon, and Common Cruiser at the river bank.
Left: shelter at the river side, Middle: butterflies attracted by smelly shoes, Right: Linopot packed rice
The gap of the river canyon is only 2 to 5 Metres width, and there are more than 30 visitors. Therefore, we take turn to go in, to avoid overcrowding. Usually the walk in river canyon takes about an hour.
Enter the River Canyon
Finally it’s my turn. We are required to put on a life vest and a helmet to protect us from drowning and falling rocks. The canyon is about 150 Metres long. However, in most cases, the guide would bring you up to 120 Metres. You can fully explore it only when the water is very shallow in dry days.
The beginning of the river canyon walk
I cross the river to enter the canyon at the other side. The temperature of the water is about 25°C degrees, it’s cold but probably not enough to cause hyperthermia, unless you stay for long hours. It’s bearable once my body gets used to it.
During drought season, you can walk across the river easily. It rained the night before, so the river reaches my chest level and the current is quite swift. I hold on the guiding rope to move to the entrance of the canyon, and fight another stream coming out from there.
Left: the river is deep during wet season, Right: the brightest section of Taralamas River Canyon
Though I struggle a bit with the cold and strong current, I feel no regret the moment I see the gorgeous rock walls in the canyon. Like most people say, it looks so unreal and doesn’t resemble any place in Sabah.
The rock walls in the canyon marked with layers horizontally, a characteristic of sedimentary rock. I feel like being sandwiched between two giant chocolate crepe cakes of 2 to 5 floors high. The walls are comprised of rock layers that are stacked and deposited since 60 millions years ago. After river flows on these rocks for million of years, it carves out the Taralamas River Canyon today. The wall surface is so smooth that I can see my reflection.
For a moment the river canyon looks like a romantic paradise
Part of the river is as deep as 9 feet. I float on the water and use the rope to move forward slowly. I look up and see the sky through the narrow opening, which is partially shielded by the translucent green leaves. Some big rocks in the canyon really look like petrified wood. I thought it was wood until my toes kick it.
Entrance to explore the deeper and darker canyon section
The first half of the river canyon is the best section for photo-taking because it’s relatively well-lighted and some rocks are coloured by green moss. About 40 Metres into the canyon is a wide open area with sandy bank where you can stand. I take a break there and photograph some pictures when the afternoon sun on top brightens up the canyon.
The narrow passage of Taralamas River Canyon
Then I continue to explore the canyon. The deeper side of the canyon is dark and narrow, almost like a cave tunnel, it’s a bit scary actually. Large volume of water squeezes through this narrow tunnel and pushes me with force.
I climb over a few mini waterfalls to go further inside, like a rat crawling against the running water in the pipe. Behind each waterfall is a chamber-like space with opening on top. The rain starts to flood the canyon, so our guide advises us to leave before the bad weather hit us. Exit the canyon is easy as we follow the current.
The ending section of Taralamas River Canyon. Actually you still can explore further up.
At last we hike back to the starting point and it is pouring rain on the way. None of us was dry. After some clean-up at the community hall, we return to KK. I’ve visited the canyon twice but more than happy to come back again.
Geology of Taralamas River Canyon
On social media, you may have seen tons of posts that praise the beauty of Taralamas River Canyon, but nobody tells you why it is so special. I did some homework by asking Professor Dr. Felix Tongkul, an expert in geology.
The unique rock structure of Taralamas River Canyon
According to Dr. Felix, technically Taralamas is a small river canyon. It was formed by stream erosion along a vertical fracture on the sedimentary rock sequence of the Trusmadi Formation. The sedimentary rock sequence comprising of dark shales and thin sandstones that were deposited about 60 million years ago in a deep sea area. The canyon itself was formed much later after the sedimentary rock sequence were uplifted and exposed on land about 15 million years ago. (Me: Wow, this canyon exists about 7 million years earlier than Mount Kinabalu.)
Left: smooth rockface of the canyon, Right: the bluish-gray stones on the riverside
Dr. Felix also said that there are other small canyons in Sabah too, but they are quite inaccessible. One such canyon can be found along Baliojong River in Kampung Togudon, Tandek in Kota Marudu. In terms of geological significance, Taralamas tells the geological history of Sabah during the Paleogene Period and illustrates the ongoing geomorphological process that shapes the surface of the earth. (Me: It’s also an extraordinary geotourism destination.)
Stories of Taralamas
My first impression of Taralamas is its hauntingly beautiful and mysterious vibe. Locals believe that some guardian spirits are living in this canyon. They don’t appreciate noisy people and dogs.
The big rock at the left looks like the face of a beast
Mr. David Julian, the founder of Tiang Lama Village Ecotourism, has been working on the tourism project there since 2019. He shared some stories of Taralamas with me. He thinks this canyon was probably discovered by the villagers who fished and hunted around Widu River in 1930s.
Left: misty forest of Tiang Lama village, Right: snake swimming in river canyon
The name “Taralamas” originated from the local word Dalamas, which means wall of big rocks at the river, or tall and slippery giant rocks along the river. Before Taralamas was open to tourists, it’s a fishing ground of the villagers.
People of Tiang Lama Village. Most of them are Dusun, the largest native group of Sabah.
Though the river there is teeming with fishes, the spirits can make fishermen go home empty-handed. Therefore, before the villagers catching the fishes together, their Bobolians (high priest) would perform a ritual to request for a bountiful caught permitted by the bunian (elf). As most villagers are converted to Christians or Muslims nowadays, they are no longer doing this, but they still remain respectful to the spirits in the canyon. That’s why shouting, cursing and offensive behaviours are not acceptable at Taralamas.
Playing in water and forest
Another story is a group of hunters were chasing a deer at Taralamas. A dog and deer fell into the canyon. When the hunters went down to search in the river, they were shocked to find that the dog and deer have turned into rocks and sticked on the wall of Taralamas River Canyon. The figures are still there, but faded now due to water erosion.
Fees & Booking Info
To visit Taralamas River Canyon, you can book the tour online with one of the village operators listed below. Both operators offer different packages and services. Besides entrance and guiding fees, you can order add-on such as packed meals, transportation and homestay / camping. And hardcore hikers can opt for the longer trails (8km and 12km) to visit Sadoron Waterfall and Gibai Peak.
Left: Mimpori Nature Homestay, Right: sunset view of Mount Kinabalu at Tiang Lama Village
Note: They would cancel the tour if the weather is bad (canyon flooded). If you plan to overnight in Tiang Lama Village, do bring some warm clothing. It’s very cold at night (about 16°C).
How to get there
Tiang Lama Village is a remote site located between Ranau and Tambunan districts. If you depart from Kota Kinabalu City, the driving distance is about 170 Kilometres (or 106 miles). The last 25 KM to the village is a gravel road, while the rest is paved road in ok condition. It takes 3.5 or more hours to reach the village by car. For day trip, you better move as early as 5am.
Left: 4-wheel-drive is the best transport to Tiang Lama, Right: van stranded in muddy road
The junction (GPS: 5.858062880692335, 116.50639939196654, see Location Map) to Tiang Lama is next to the main road between Ranau and Tambunan towns. The 25-km gravel road is muddy after rain, so getting there by 4-wheel drive is highly advisable. Or you may book the transportation with the operator, who can pick you up in Ranau or Tambunan town.
Things to Bring
The following is a list of recommended items to bring for day trip. It’s for your reference only, you may not need them all.
Left: outfit for the hike, Middle: waterproof casing for phone, Right: leech repellent
Today I want to introduce some sweethearts to you. These little honey make money and healthy food for you. They are stingless bees (or meliponines), the honeybees that don’t sting. Stingless bee is known as Kelulut in Malaysia and Tantadan (local Dusun name) in Sabah. Belonging to the family Apida, kelulut is closely related to honey bees, and they are also the honey producer and important pollinators in tropical and subtropical regions.
There are about 38 species of stingless bee (kelulut) found in Malaysia, but not all are honey producers
Stingless bees are very common in Sabah. If you have a garden or orchard, there is a 80% chance that you could spot a kelulut hive nearby. Usually they build their nests in hollow trunks, wall cavities, and even crevices in your house wall. Stingless bees are always found busy harvesting nectar in the countryside. If you sweat a lot, some of them would land on your skin to collect salt.
Wax tunnels of wild stingless bees on a tree. When I was a naughty kid, I used to pinch to seal the waxen tunnel of their entrance for fun.
Stingless bees are only 1 centimetre or less in body length. Their tiny size allows them to access small flowers. Though they produce honey in small quantity, kelulut honey is more nutritious and highly priced. It is a trend that more and more Sabah village house farms kelulut, as the kelulut honey is in good demand and can generate hundred to thousands dollars of side income easily every month.
Heterotrigona itama species of stingless bee (kelulut) is all black in color and suitable (and common) for beekeeping
Honey Bee Vs Kelulut. Which Honey is Better?
Honey produced by stingless bees has many names such as Meliponine honey, pot honey, sugarbag honey (in Australia), and kelulut honey (in Malaysia). In Malaysia, kelulut honey is acclaimed as a honey healthier than normal honey. The following are some comparisons of both honey:
1. Taste
As you know, honeybee honey is sweet. Kelulut honey is sourish sweet. Usually sweetness is the base taste, and it mixes with varied degree of sourness, and even bitterness, which is greatly depend on the flowers or fruit trees visited by kelulut. Stingless bees store their honey in honey pots which are made of cerumen, produced from the bee’s saliva mixed with pollen, plant resins and flowers, and this chemically affects the taste. Sometimes its honey has slight fruit flavour or herbal aroma.
These stingless bees are Geniotrigona thoracica species. They make very delicious honey.
2. Nectar and Viscosity
Kelulut honey is thinner than honey due to higher water content and more prone to spoiling. Many native plant have small flowers that only Meliponine can access to collect the nectar. Kelulut honey is also not as “heaty” as normal honey.
3. Quantity
Honey bees produce about 5 or more times honey than kelulut. In average, a honey bee hive creates 2.25 to 3.75 Kg of honey per month, whereas kelulut is only 0.5 to 2 Kg per month.
Stingless bee (kelulut) honey is more expensive than honeybee honey. Some call Kelulut honey the “Miracle Liquid” because of its medicinal value.
4. Price
In most cases, a standard grade honey costs less than RM90 per Kilogram. Kelulut honey is sold for RM120 to RM150 per Kg locally.
5. Nutrients
According to the Malaysian Agricultural Research and Development Institute (MARDI), stingless bee honey is twice as nutritious as ordinary honey. In a Scientific Reports published on 22 July 2020, the researchers found that up to 85% of their sugar is trehalulose, which is a rare and healthy sugar that is “friendly” for diabetes and doesn’t cause tooth decay.
Row of kelulut bee houses. Each log hosts a colony. You can have a few to 100 bee houses in a bee farm
6. Health Benefits
The main selling point of kelulut honey is its stronger health values from anti-bacterial, anti-carcinogen and anti-oxidant properties. It has a history of traditional indigenous in treating cough, fever, cuts and rashes. Some of the claims are proven by research, just to list a few below:
Honey contains more anti-oxidant properties (able to delay the ageing process and preventing cancer) than honey bees, as reported by MARDI.
Locals believe having a tea spoon of kelulut honey twice a day can strengthen immune system, to prevent cold and flu.
Nest structure of kelulut. At the right are “honey pots” that store the honey
Beekeeping Method (Meliponiculture)
The rearing of stingless bee is known as meliponiculture. There are more than 38 species of stingless bees found in Malaysia, but only a few of them are suitable for beekeeping, for example, Heterotrigona itama and Geniotrigona thoracica are the most preferred species, followed by Lepidotrigona terminata and Tetragonula leviceps.
Kelulut bee farm is best built under shade with lot of flowers and fruit trees nearby. The bees can increase the yield of your crops too.
Generally kelulut is passive. To defend their home, they would attack invaders by biting, but it is more like ant bite and far less painful than honeybee sting. No bee protective suit is required for handling of kelulut. Stingless bees share similar food, behavior, and social structure with honey bees, so you can rear them like normal honey bees.
Stingless bee farm in Kota Belud (Pinolobu Village)
Beekeepers can house the kelulut colony in a bee house called Gelodok or transfer them to a wooden box. You can open the box periodically to harvest honey without doing too much damages to their nest. The old methods of using bamboos, flowerpots, or coconut shells as bee house would be less sustainable as beekeepers need to cut the container in half for collecting honey.
Stingless bee house with top cover makes honey harvesting easier and causes less damage to the nest
Commercial kelulut beekeeping is introduced in Malaysia in 2012. Now there are 750 to 1,000 bee farmers nationwide. Sarawak state produces the most kelulut honey, followed by Sabah and Peninsular Malaysia.
Close-up of stingless bees (kelulut) and their nest
Beescaping
Bee houses are placed in shade to avoid excessive heat. Stingless bees have short flight ranges of about 500 metres (honey bees is 2 km). Therefore, for higher honey yield, the bee farm should be nearby the favourable food source of stingless bees, the following are some preferred host plant:
Flowers: air mata pengantin or Honolulu Creeper (Antigonon leptopus), Buttercup (Turnera subulata)
Fruit trees: rambutan, starfruit, passion fruit, coconut, durian
Acacias, rubber and other flowering forest trees
(Note: the choice of plant can affect the taste and colors of the honey)
Sipping kelulut honey as a fun activity
Small kelulut is vulnerable to attack and raid by bigger bees and hornets. A trick is to place some belacan (shrimp paste) near the bee hives to keep these predators away.
Got Honey, Got Money. A Profitable Business
Malaysia government has initiated the National Kelulut Honey Industry Development Plan 2020-2030 that aims to make the kelulut honey industry a new source of stable and sustainable income because kelulut beekeeping can generate good income quick without high capital and advanced skill as a start. You can get the kelulut nest from the wild or buy it from local open market (tamu). A new colony normally starts producing honey after three months.
Honolulu Creeper (Antigonon leptopus) flower is a good host plant for stingless bee farming
If you have RM1,500, you can start a small farm of three stingless bee colonies. Each kelulut nest produces about 0.33 to 2 Kg of honey monthly. In Sabah, beekeepers earn about RM60 per kg of kelulut honey, which is marketed for RM120 to RM140 per Kg in the shops after processing and packaging. You can build a bee farm of 50 to 1,000 bee colonies with a starting capital of between RM40,000 and RM50,000, that can bring you a monthly income of RM5,000 to RM30,000.
Gelodok bee house for Kelulut (stingless bees) at a village house
Currently, the total market volume of Malaysia’s kelulut honey industry is only RM33.6 million while the market potential is about RM67.2 million. According to data provided by the Agriculture Department in 2017, the total kelulut honey production in Malaysia stood at 134,244 kilograms. From what I heard, the demand for stingless bee honey is high and most go to local consumption. The needs for kelulut honey will grow when it becomes more popular.
Old-fashioned stingless bee houses in village
Besides, about 1,000 downstream products can be made from honey, propolis and pollen from kelulut nests. The ingredients can be used in health supplements, cosmetics, skincare, toothpaste, face cream, essential oil, hand cream, skin disorder ointments, lip salve, etc. These byproducts will increase the revenue generated from bee farms.
Box type of stingless bee houses (in Kiansom)
Training and Funding
Interested in starting a kelulut farm? The organisations below might be able to help you. Good luck!
Big entrance of stingless bee nest. Found in Gaya Island, off Kota Kinabalu city
1. Borneo Honeybee Centre
In Sabah, the State Agriculture Department and Koperasi Pembangunan Desa (KPD) provide advice and conduct courses for stingless bee farming. KPD opened the Borneo Honeybee Centre in Sikuati, Kudat (north of Sabah). The Borneo Honeybee Centre is a centre for collecting, processing and bottling of honey and also conducted the bees farming courses (for about RM350). This 8.5-acre complex has various facilities such as Honey Processing Factory, Bee Gallery, Honeybee Souvenir, Honeybee Café and guided tour for those who want to learn more about beekeeping.
Borneo Honeybee Centre in Kudat is a hub for collecting, processing and bottling of honey and also provides beekeeping courses
2. Akademi Kelulut Malaysia (AKM)
Located in Bangi, Selangor, this company provides beginner to advanced training on kelulut beekeeping and making of stingless bee products. They also publish some books on stingless bees.
Some courses by Akademi Kelulut Malaysia (AKM) on making of Kelulut products
3. Malaysian Agricultural Research and Development Institute (Mardi)
MARDI is a government agency established with the main objectives of generating and promoting new, appropriate and efficient technologies towards the advancement of the food, agriculture, food and agro-based industries.
Implemented by Ministry of Agriculture and Food Industries’ (MAFI) in 2016, the Young Agropreneur Programme aims to encourage the involvement of youths (18 – 40 years old) in entrepreneurial activities in the agricultural sector’s value chain. If you are eligible, you can apply funding at: mafi.gov.my.
