Tag Archives: Mangrove

Blog about Mangrove Forest

Garama river cruise

Deluxe River Cruise in Klias-Garama Rivers

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Near to Beaufort town and 1.5 hours drive from Kota Kinabalu city, Klias Wetland is the biggest peat swamp forest of Sabah. As Klias is the habitat of wildlife such as proboscis (long-nosed) monkey, silver-leaf monkey and firefly, it attracts thousands of tourists every year. I have tried river cruise in Klias wetland a few times. Basically what the tour operators do is – they put the tourists sitting on a small speed boat, cruise along Klias or Garama River, to spot for monkey on the trees of the river bank. At night, they will bring tourists to see fireflies.

However, OIB Tours (Only in Borneo) now offers a totally different new experience. Personally I call it an excellent example of Blue Ocean Strategy (which create new niche and make ordinary competition irrelevant). They turn a 80-feet wooden fishing boat into a tourist house-boat named “Kunang-Kunang” (means Firefly), the first deluxe river cruise tour in Sabah.


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Though I was invited, I had no idea what they meant by deluxe river cruise. At first, we need to travel 2 hours by land to their riverside base camp in Garama. FYI, Klias and Garama are adjacent to each other and both are the rivers in Klias Wetland (Peninsular).

We get out of our bus and walk about 10 minutes on a boardwalk to reach Garama Base Camp. The starting doesn’t look luxury. I am perfectly ok with the walk, but I dislike oil palm.


We took a short tea break at the base camp of OIB.


Then we got onboard on small speed boats and started our river cruise at 4:30pm.


Above: our guide, DJ, looked for monkey.


Above: a group of tourists saw the proboscis monkey. Compare to Kilas River, the Garama River is smaller and have many narrow maze-like network, but you can get closer to the monkey.


Above: we spot a few herds of proboscis monkey at the riverside.

For me, this is quite an ordinary river cruise like most other travel agents offer. You may watch the video of “ordinary” river cruise below. Later you can compare this with the deluxe river cruise:

After 30-minute of river cruise in Garama River, we are transferred to the 80-feet house boat “Kunang-Kunang” in Klias River at 5pm:


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Above: everyone is so excited and check out the boat. The dining and resting area looks big.


Kunang-Kunang is a double-deck boat. It can accommodate 30 to 50 people, really great for private party and company annual dinner. You may have a wedding party onboard too. Sound much more fun than those formal and boring functions in hotel.


Above: introduce to you the captain of Kunang-Kunang. He is blind actually. Haha, just kidding..


The view from upper deck is so nice! See the lush mangrove forest behind them?


Another photo taken on upper deck. You can have a very open and 360 degree view of Klias River.


The boat moves slowly and very stable, none of us got seasick. Everyone was as happy as a kid on this big boat.

You may watch the 5-minute video below to have a 360-degree look of both lower and upper decks:


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Kunang-Kunang was once a fishing boat, of course you can try fishing on it.


If you are lucky, you may catch “Udang Galah”, an odd-looking big prawn from the river. It is edible and sold for RM20+ per Kilograms in market.


For me, I prefer to do nothing and just enjoy my beer, hehe..


There were many small tourists boats passed by. We can see from the faces of these tourists that they are so envy and want to be on our big boat too, lol.


Due to cloudy weather, the sunset that day was not so spectacular but we still had good time anyway.


After sunset, we saw non-stop traffic of flocks of “birds” on the sky. See the small dots in photo above? They kept on coming. When the day turned darker, they fly lower. I notice that the way they fly is very strange. These are not birds.


They are flying fox (fruit bat) and hundreds of them flying over our boat. I didn’t know Klias has flying fox. You can see it at the end of my last video.




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We also enjoyed our dinner onboard. It has been a fun trip and I can see that everyone is really happy. So… you know what to propose to your company for annual dinner? 😉

After dinner, our boat started to return to Base Camp. Suddenly the boat turned off all the light. In total darkness, we saw many “Christmas trees”, which in fact are synchronized flashes from hundreds, even thousands, of twinkling fireflies congregated on the trees. There are nearly 50 of such “Summer Christmas Trees” along the Klias River. Though it’s the highlight, too bad I can’t show you any photo coz it’s impossible to take photos. A few fireflies even fly to our boat!

For pricing info and reservation, you may contact OIB Tours.

Photos taken in Beaufort, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Day Trip in Membakut

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Earlier this year, I went to Membakut for a day trip. Thanks to Emily, I discovered the charm of Membakut. Membakut is a town about 80 KM away from Kota Kinabalu city and near to Beaufort.

There is a long paved road in Binsulok of Membakut. The road is in good condition and its end leads to a ferry terminal that brings you to Kuala Penyu. Driving along this road is a pleasure experience. Besides the scenic countryside view, the best part is the Binsulok River next to the road. The mangrove forest of Binsulok River is still in pristine condition. The dense mangrove is so green and beautiful that I pulled my car over a few times to take photos.


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Mangrove forest is the nursery and bleeding ground of seafood such as fishes and crab. Needless to say, the river becomes the popular fishing spot for the locals. Whenever I went, I saw villagers carrying fishing rods. I think this river is also a great place for kayaking.


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Mangrove trees really grow inside the water. The peculiar stilt root of mangrove allows the tree to breathe. Sabah has largest area of mangrove in Malaysia. However, very few knows that that’s why Sabah has abundant seafood. Sabah is a hilly state, so the mangrove area at the coastal (flat) area is constantly under pressure of development and will be clear anytime. If our mangrove is gone, so will our seafood.


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Photos below: The trees look like being soaked in flood water but they actually survive well in such condition.


But what interest me the most is the sundew grows on the river bank. At first I know they are fallen fruit. A closer look reveals that they might the carnivorous plant that I’ve been looking for. I never expect I would see them in Membakut.


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Then we came to a riverside hut that looks like a great place for fishing and relaxing. Unfortunately, it is very poorly maintained.

The plank on the boardwalk is in bad shape..

Centre part of the hut is sinking and would collapse.

To make thing worse, some idiots made camp fire inside the wooden hut, creating big holes inside the hut. I guess it’s the irresponsible act by the local anglers.

There is a toilet next to the hut. The door is gone…

If you follow the Binsulok River, you will find its water flows to the sea in Pimping Beach. That’s why the sea water of Pimping Beach is brackish in color and you will find foam along the shore and float on the sea, probably caused by the mixture of sea and river water. It was holiday but no people swimming so I assume the sea is not cool for swimming.



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That’s all my “adventure” in Membakut. I got a video of Pimping Beach below if you are interested in looking closer at the weird foam.

Photos taken in Membakut, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Kayaking in Mengkabong River

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For those of you who have been to Shangri-La Rasa Ria Hotel in Tuaran, you would not miss the beautiful view of Mengkabong River (estuary) from a bridge nearby. In fact, that bridge is the most photographed point for Mt. Kinabalu, almost every photographers got a sunrise photo of majestic Mt. Kinabalu from this angle.



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Anyway, personally I think that angle is “shot to death”, so I am not interested in photographing it at all. However, every time I pass by, I do think, “wow, isn’t that wonderful if I can do kayaking in that river?” And it did happen last month, but at a price of waking up at 4am!


Transfer to Mengkabong water village


Mengkabong Village


Friendly and shy children of Mengkabong

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Our guide, a friendly and gentle Japanese named Yasushi (but we like to call him “Sushi”), runs a kayaking programme at Mengkabong River. He picked us up in Kota Kinabalu at 5am, then we headed to the kayaking site in Mengkabong Village, which is in Tuaran and about 35KM away from the city. We arrived the village around 6am and have a coffee break in the house of a villager, Uncle Usop. Mengkabong Village is a traditional fishing village and most of the population are Bajau people. Many tourists come here to see the stilt houses on the riverbank here.


Above: cute devil of Mengkabong. The owner locks them up coz worry that they might fall into river.


Release of cute devil..


Dry langsat fruit skin


Above: locals burn langsat peel to remove odour and also believe it can calm the wind.

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After having light refreshment, we started our kayaking on fiber glass kayak (2 seats). At first I worried that the kayak could capsize, so I only brought my old (spare) camera. Later I found that I worried too much. The Kayak is very stable and the water in estuary is calm. The activity is very simple and relaxing, we just paddle and follow the kayak of Sushi to explore the river and mangrove area.


Above: see the dark line? It’s the wide area of mangrove on the river.


Sunrise view of Mt. Kinabalu

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Luckily the weather was good and the air was refreshing. The sky is lighten up by sunrise and Mt. Kinabalu becomes a beautiful backdrop over the river. Now I know why we need to wake up so early, to catch the breath-taking view in magic moment. FYI, you also can try sunset kayaking, the view would be less impressive but you can see the fireflies in mangrove. You can do fishing on the kayak too. This estuary is a mix of freshwater and sea water, so you could get both types of fishes. We saw oyster farm in the river, an evident that the water is clean.

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Besides sunrise view of Mt. Kinabalu, the network of densely-grown mangrove forest on river is also fun to explore. The mangrove forest is so vast, and soon we are surrounded by walls of mangrove trees, as if we are inside a maze. I saw a pair of beautiful Stork-billed kingfisher. Btw, you should apply sunblock before kayaking. There are some mosquitoes in the mangrove, so you better bring insect repellant too. Anyway, according to the villager, the mosquito in mangrove is not dangerous and doesn’t carry terrible diseases such as malaria, though their bites are very itchy.


We stay close to chit chat.

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The last part of the kayaking is to navigate through the very narrow passage inside the mangrove. It is challenging but quite fun, and require team work of front and rear kayakers. Finally the kayaking ended at 8am. Frankly I don’t mind kayak until afternoon. Some of my friends are asking for such trip, if you are interested, you may contact Mr. Yasushi at 019-8109510 (Website (Japanese version): http://www.kayakdeborneo.sakura.ne.jp/). His clients are mainly Japanese but he welcomes local group to join too.

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Photos taken in Tuaran, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Usukan Cove

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“A bay full of corals” is my first impression of Usukan Cove in Kota Belud district. In fact, the rich diversity and density of corals in Usukan Cove reminds me of Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park 30 years ago, the time when the corals were in pristine conditions and found in shallow water only a few feet away from the sandy beach, before they were spoiled by thousands of tourists nowadays…


Above: Japanese Bridge

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To go there from Kota Kinabalu, just drive in the direction to Kota Belud town. After an hour, you will arrive a roundabout, just follow the brown signage that says “Jeti Ke Pulau Mantanani” (Jetty to Mantanani Island). Then you will see second roundabout (Kuala Abai), follow the junction at the left, and you will arrive the entrance of Usukan Cove Lodge within 10 minutes.


On the way, you will pass by a white steel bridge built by Japanese to transport the copper that they collected from Mamut Minefield about 30 years ago. The locals call it the “Japanese Bridge”. The funny thing is – it is a one-way bridge in arch shape. Cars entering from both directions can’t see each other until one of them reaches the top. One car has to give way (by reversing back) to the car that comes up to the top first. The traffic volume is low so the locals seem to get used to such inconvenience.

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Usukan Cove Lodge offers basic and economic accommodation, from bunk-bed room (2 to 4 beds) to sea front twin-bed room (Online Booking available). These building were used to be the staff quarter of Shell who has oil rig off Mantanani Island. A tour operator took over it in March this year and turned it into a lodge. Though the rooms have no attached bathroom cum toilet, they are clean and cosy. The lodge is able to host maximum of 50 people, so it is a suitable school retreat location. Many European tourists also like this quiet place, because other islands such as Sapi and Manukan are too crowded and noisy to them. But frankly, the beach area there is quite small.

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Snorkelling

Snorkelling is the best choice of activity due to the rich corals in Usukan. Diving is available but you should not expect “too high” coz in rainy season, the flowing river nearby would make the sea water a bit murky and poor in visibility. One of the highlight is the “Christmas Tree” coral, which I believe is a tubeworm. Turtles and seahorses were spotted here before but not common. There are about 4 dive sites in Usukan, and 3 wreck diving sites for advanced divers.

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The density and size of the coral reef is remarkable. The boat dropped me in Usukan Reef and Icy Point for the snorkelling. The Usukan Reef mainly consists of hard corals. Each species seems like gathering in large clusters. I saw large areas of big plate corals and stag-horn corals. In Icy Point, I also saw mainly hard corals, with more mix of soft corals and sea grass. The sea water in Icy Point is a bit funny. In one spot I felt warm, but moving a few Metres away I would feel cool, probably that’s why they call it Icy Point. The corals come in different shapes, like big boulders, brain, hand, pyramid, sponge and flower. Though the shore is quite a distance away, the water was shallow and the corals grew quite tall. I had to be careful so I would not destroy the corals by accident.


Above: Diving / Snorkelling sites of Usukan Cove

The sad thing I noticed was the coral bleaching. About 10% of corals here were showing sign of bleaching. You can even see these white spots (bleached corals) clearly from the boat. This was not present two months ago. I saw a big and white “coral tree” underwater. Its look was so stunning, like a big snowy tree with ice branches. But the corals were dead actually, a heart-broken but beautiful scene.

Due to global warming, the corals of Peninsular Malaysia are badly affected and they have to close down 12 dive sites. Now the coral bleaching is slowly spreading to Sabah. It is not a local issue, as other Sabah islands in west coast (in South China Sea) are also facing the same problem. In fact, the pollution from our mainland has been stressing the corals, global warming is just the last stack of grass that crushes the camel.


Above: clear spot of coral bleaching

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Deep Sea Fishing

Then I went “deep sea fishing” in the sea 20 minutes off Usukan Cove by boat. Ehem… it was only 14 Meters in depth, not really deep. The “real” deep fish fishing is going for the depth of over 30 Meters. This tour operator does take hardcore anglers to real deep sea but that’s another package. It was so nice that the workers prepared everything for us, the fishing rod, hook and bait, making our lives so easy.


Above: fishing bait (basung fishes & squid)

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Can you believe it? In 3 minutes, we got our first fish! I thought we were only lucky. But from there on, we got fish in every 3 minutes. That’s not my case though. At first my fishing line entangled, then my fishing hook stuck in a rock, no fish for 30 minutes but the bait was gone, my fishing became “feeding fish”. Then a worker taught me a tip, I had to release my fishing hook all the way down to the bottom, not letting it dragged in the mid water or surface.

Above: blue-dotted stingray that has venomous sting


Above: our caught in one hour

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The tip really worked! Within 20 minutes, I got 3 fishes, two blacktip groupers (red color) and a Jackfish (silver color). One of us even got a puffer fish and another got blue-dotted stingray. The capture of blue-dotted stingray caused a brief moment of fear onboard coz its sting is venomous. I’m not sure about other countries, stingray is considered a delicacy in Sabah. Its meat is quite delicious if you don’t mind it gets a weird “chemical” taste (can mix it with lime juice to cover the smell). The sea was a bit choppy, so I walked like a drunken man on the deck. Btw, it is perfect to enjoy some beer while fishing. After an hour of fishing, we returned to Usukan Cove Lodge with our fruitful caught and they cooked the fishes for us.

Above: They cooked our caught as dinner. I hope this is steamed though.

Above: meat of stingray

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River Cruise

We started our river cruise at Kawa-Kawa River at 4PM, to look for playboy of Borneo. I mean the Proboscis Monkey, which has many wives and always in “ready” mode to mate. On one side of this 15-Meter-wide river is human settlement and another side is mainly mangrove and nipah forest. Since the proboscis monkeys are used to people, they are relatively less elusive and we can get really close to them.

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Proboscis Monkey has the habit of spending the night on the trees next to the river in the evening. For them, riverside is the safest site to stay away from predators at night. About 4 to 5 herds of Proboscis Monkey were spotted at Kawa-Kawa River. But there is no guarantee we can see them. Luckily we found 3 groups of them despite the poor weather.

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Besides long-nosed monkeys, we also saw crab-eating macaque (long-tailed macaque), monitor lizard and many birds such as oriental darter, white-bellied sea eagle, little heron, blue-throated bee eater, white-collar kingfisher, frigate, doves, egrets and bulbul. After we exited the estuary of Kawa-Kawa River and on the way to Abai River, we were rewarded by the magic moment of the sunset.


Above: a male proboscis monkey showed warning then ignored us

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Then we proceeded to the mangrove forest of Abai River to look at firefly around 6:40pm. Normally there should be hundreds of them. Unfortunately, that night was rainy and bright with moonlight, the most inactive time for firefly, so we only spotted a few twinkling fireflies in the riverside. Weather is not something we can control so nevermind then. Anyway, I had so much fun that day and would call it an excellent trip.

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If you are interested in tour to Usukan Cove, you may contact Inno Travel & Tour Services (http://www.sabahholidays.com).

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Crab fights Crab

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I was observing the interaction among these crabs and took the photos below. Crab is a territorial animals and they constantly defending their boundary. As they don’t build any fence, their claws are their fence. Whoever got a bigger claw will win.

The weak will fight back anyway, no matter how small their claws are. That makes me think of the current political situation of Malaysia. To get unfair advantages, the government has controlled police, Election Committee, newspapers, TV, Anti-Corruption Agency, judges, education, ISA, etc. So they have super big claw to bully the people who have different voices.

Whenever they are on the losing side, creating race tension will be their next weapon. However, as people are more educated nowadays, they don’t quite buy this cheap tactic. They know in globalization age, stressing special right is just plain stupid.


Dialog: “You are my hero, hubby!”

Well, I don’t believe such thing as BN is bad, PR is good. Absolute Power will create Absolute Corruption. PR will turn into the second BN too, if they also get a super claw. It is foolish that BN is more interested in the conduct of opposition rather than its own. Because of this, PR will become cleaner and cleaner, BN will become more and more corrupted. The people can’t wait for the next election to remove them from the office.

Monster is chasing the PR and Rakyat… Constitution is the Mother of Law and is above any governmental bodies, even Sultan. I worry if we allow something unconstitutional to happen in Perak, it will give the BN even a bigger claw. Anyway, though making great headlines, the people actually are not quite interested in the fight between BN and PR, it is a lose-lose thing.

Now everyone just hope to keep their jobs and overcome the economic downturn, which is of the least concern of rich and corrupted VVIPs. I am already very sick of seeing white becomes black, black becomes white, under the influence of people in power. Be cautious BN, in next election we would pinch you with bigger claw.

Photos taken in Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Horseshoe Crab

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This is a common animal lives in mangrove mud and river. I only saw it once in the wild decades ago. I have been visiting KK Wetland Centre since year 2005, but this was the first time I saw it there, though I expected there should be many of them. If you look at the photo below, you will know why they are so hard to spot. It was covered in mud and moved slowly.

After washing off its soil with water, you can see that it is so cute. This is a baby horseshoe crab only as big as a 20 cent coin. Though it looks like crab, it is more closely related to spiders.

When I turned it over, it tried to use its tail to flip its body. Don’t worry. It won’t use its long and sharp tail to poke a hole on you.

After the photography session, I released it unharmed back to the mudflat.

Scientists call horseshoe crab a live fossil coz it has existed for over 400 millions years. Its blood is in blue color (you curious guys please don’t kill it to find out ok), also making it sounds like an alien. I heard that its blood is highly priced (US5,000 per Litre) due to its medical value. Someone even farm them.

The horseshoe crab can grow as big as a plate. I don’t know if it is a vulnerable species, but I know the villagers live by the seaside like to catch them for meal. I wonder how many can survive up to that size. Hope they will not really become a fossil in this century.

Many years ago, I found a beautiful big skeleton (shell) of horseshoe crab at Tanjung Lipat beach. However, my family called it ugly and disgusting. They threw it away when I was not at home.

The mud skipper was checking out the horse shoe crab. I heard that horseshoe crab got 10 eyes but I could not see them..

You can even buy it at Tamu (Native Market) of Kota Belud and other towns. They say it tastes like crab. Its gall contains poison so you need to remove it before consumption. I am not interested in trying though.


Above: Horse Shoe Crab can grow really big

Photos taken in Kota Kinabalu Wetland Centre, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Mangrove Anemone

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I was taking a mangrove walk at Kota Kinabalu Wetland Centre. I found some semi-transparent and jelly-like buds under a mangrove tree. Whenever I passed by, I always kept an eye on that spot for snakes and other animals. I guess they are new residents coz I never saw them.

When the water (high tide) ran over them, the buds opened and looked like anemone. This is interesting coz I never see anemone grows in mangrove forest. I wonder when and how these sea creatures set their foot there.

Anyway, they are nice looking though they are smaller than a thumb. Very hard to photograph them coz they were under running water and there was reflection.

Anyone knows what species it is? It is a Striped bead anemone if I am not mistaken.

Photos taken in Kota Kinabalu Wetland Centre, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Kampung Minyak (Oil Village)

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Kampung Minyak is the main reason I visited Kudat last month. I had seen hot water (hot spring) and mud (mud volcano) coming out from the ground, but I haven’t seen petroleum does that. The oil seepages are inside a tidal mangrove swamp nearby the Kampung Minyak (Oil Village). It is quite accessible, though you have to drive through a few KM of gravel and muddy road and take a 5 minute walk in a jungle trail to reach there.

Oil seepages of Kampung Minyak

The oil seepages of Kampung Minyak Village are inside a mangrove

From the photo above, you can see that there are 3 oil seepages. They are basically the same thing but look a bit difference to one another. The water at the left is darker. The one in middle is filled with murky water, probably due to the soil washed in by the rain. The one at the right is the biggest one and supposed to be the most active one. Because of vast amount of oil, the tar on top becomes harden, forming a layer of hard bitumen that seals the opening.

The smell of gasoline is quite strong here. At first impression, these wells look like the smelly ponds formed after a heavy rain around an greasy car junkyard. You can see oil films and lot of oil droplets on the water. And there are bubbles constantly float to the surface, suggest the presence of earth activity. I presume each bubble carries thin amount of oil and gas.

The surrounding soil of the seepages is greasy because of the oil deposit. They told me that in early 1900, strange black liquid seeping out from the earth astounded local community and they turned the site into a sacred ground.

Colorful reflection of oil slick

According to the research by Joanes Muda: “village elders used to offer animal sacrifices for various reasons such as for healing from illness and for protection from diseases and other calamities. One-month old newborns were also brought to the area for anointing on the forehead with the black liquid. During those days, anyone visiting the site had to sacrifice a chicken and consumed it there.” (Source: Oil seepages at Kampung Minyak, Bulletin of the Geological Society of Malaysia 56 (2010) 49 – 52)

During World War II, the Japanese also tried to mine the oil here. Then they stopped suddenly because many of them died from a mysterious sickness. Another story says that the Japanese cooked with the oil, then the rice turned into sand in the following day.

Hopefully someone can do a detail documentation about its history, as I think the stories can be far more interesting than the little oil seepages.

The oil seepages still active and release gas and oil

There was oil company had surveyed this place. May be the reserve of the fossil fuel was not big enough for them to mine it.

Greasy soil next to oil seepage

According to them, this biggest oil seepage (see below) is very deep. Nobody knows how deep it is. They used measuring stick up to 100 feet but still didn’t touch the bottom. The tar is solid to stand on, even though you can feel that it is soft underneath.

The oil seepages of Kampung Minyak Village are inside a mangrove

They also build a shelter and 50-feet boardwalk at the site. If you go there, do take a look at the beautiful mangrove trees there. In fact, there was a team of Italy TV crew went there to document the place.

Boardwalk to the oil seepages

Photos taken in Kudat, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo