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Satay of Sipitang

Sipitang Satay, the Best Satay of Sabah?

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The scent of a particular perfume could remind you of someone you love, while the aroma of sizzling satay smoke transports me back to the tantalizing taste of satay in Sipitang town. Considered the best satay in Sabah, Sipitang Satay is the town’s trademark food, just like how we have Tenom Coffee and Tuaran Noodle in Sabah.

Sipitang, the biggest town near the Sabah-Sarawak border in Malaysia, is a popular pitstop for travelers heading between Sabah, Sarawak, and Brunei. Despite its small-town charm with no fancy malls or hotels, it’s a favorite spot to take a break, grab some delicious satay, and enjoy the coastal views after a long drive. And it’s from here that the fame of Sipitang Satay has spread across Borneo.

A friendly tourist from Brunei who visits Sipitang quite often for the yummy satay, so Sipitang Satay has become known “internationally” because Bruneians also love it.

To uncover the secrets behind Sipitang Satay’s irresistible flavour, I embarked on a nearly three-hour drive from KK to Sipitang. As I arrived in Sipitang around noon, the tantalizing aroma of grilled satay filled the air, a signature scent of the town. Following the trail of smoke, I made my way to a bustling hawker centre housed in a white-roofed building at the esplanade.

The hawker center at Sipitang Esplanade. Now, diners can enjoy satay sheltered from the hot sun and rain.

At the hawker centre, rows of colourful tables and chairs were occupied by approximately 20 stalls offering an array of satay and other local delicacies. It was a hub where one could indulge in three iconic Malaysian foods: satay, ketupat, and ABC (Mixed Ice Dessert). The tantalising aroma, enticing appearance, and sizzling sounds of the satay set my stomach rumbling. Legend has it that no one leaves this satay kingdom with an empty stomach, so I knew I had to eat.

Satay stalls of Sipitang town. They also sells variety of halal food such as chicken wings and noodles.

About Satay

For those unfamiliar with Malaysia’s most popular street food, satay (also known as sate or satai in Malay) originated from Java, Indonesia, and has existed since the 15th century. It’s a Southeast Asian form of kebab made from seasoned, skewered, and barbecued meat, typically served with a side sauce. Each country has its own unique way of preparing satay.

Satay is the most popular street food of Malaysia.

Malaysian satay is crafted from tender and juicy diced or sliced pieces of marinated chicken, beef, or lamb (or mutton). These meat pieces are skewered and barbecued over charcoal embers, imparting a delightful smoky and tangy flavour.

Beef Satay, Chicken Satay, and Lamb Satay are the three most popular types of Malaysian satay.

To fully savour your satay experience, dip each skewer into the thick peanut sauce (or satay sauce), which is considered the soul of satay. The savoury meat pairs wonderfully with the sweet and creamy sauce, enhancing the overall flavour and mouthfeel of the dish. The satay sauce typically comprises ground toasted peanuts, spices, and sugar. A well-made homemade peanut sauce can greatly enhance the taste of your satay.

Satay is best served with peanut sauce; they are a perfect pair.

For a satisfying meal, accompany your satay with ketupat or kelupis rice cakes. Ketupat is compressed rice wrapped in coconut fronds, while kelupis is a traditional and sweet delicacy of the Orang Brunei of Sabah, made from glutinous rice and wrapped in leaves.

Ketupat (left) and Kelupis (right) are traditional Malaysian rice cakes. Both are delicious when dipped with peanut sauce.

To complement your satay, diced cucumber and onions serve as refreshing condiments, helping to reduce the oily feel on your taste buds. While these vegetables are not typically provided by default at Sipitang stalls, you can always request them. The owner of Satay Siga-Siga kindly provided us with some for photography purposes.

Satay being BBQ’d over the grill stove. The aromatic smoke is a crowd magnet.

I highly recommend Satay Siga-Siga (they didn’t pay me to say this). You can verify my recommendation by checking out other online reviews. The seats at Satay Siga-Siga are always the first to be fully occupied, and even Bruneians know them.

Satay Siga-Siga serves excellent satay, highly recommended by me and many others.

Types of Sipitang Satay

There are three main types of satay: beef (sate daging), chicken (sate ayam), and lamb (sate kambing), which are the best-selling varieties. Beef satay (sate daging) is favoured for its rich flavour and texture. Chicken satay (sate ayam) appeals to those who prefer tender white meat. Lamb satay (sate kambing) boasts the strongest flavour, ideal for those who appreciate its distinct goaty aroma, though it’s the most expensive option.

Platter of beef, chicken and lamb satay. Nice to meat you. Beef and Chicken Satay cost RM0.80 to RM1.00 each, while Lamb Satay is priced at RM1.50 to RM2.00. Different stalls may have varying selling prices. (Prices are accurate as of January 2024 and may vary in the future).

Another popular satay variety is Sate Tungking/Tongkeng/Buntut (chicken tail satay). Initially, the idea of eating ‘chicken butt’ may seem off-putting, but I became a fan after my first taste. While chicken tail is quite fatty, its meat is incredibly tender. The fat of Sate Buntut is grilled until it’s slightly burnt and crispy on the outside, allowing you to enjoy the juicy and springy meat. I usually only have 1 or 2 skewers before it starts feeling too greasy.

The oily chicken tail satay goes well with the sweet and spicy dark sauce. These satay are overcooked though. Sate Buntut costs about RM1.50 each.

Sate Berubut (Beef Tripe Satay) and Hati Buyah (Beef Lungs Satay) taste like a soft version of jerky. While they offer interesting textures, I personally don’t find them very appetising, especially without seasoning. In fact, they can be rather bland. These varieties are definitely an acquired taste and may not be a safe choice for those who dislike offal. It’s worth noting that they often cost the same or even more than the more well-liked varieties of satay.

Sate Berubut (Beef Tripe Satay) and Sate Hati Buyah (Beef Lungs Satay). They cost from RM1.00 to RM1.50 each.

Why Sipitang Satay Tastes So Good?

The delicious taste of Sipitang Satay is only half of the story. Science can explain why Sipitang Satay stands out compared to equally good satay made elsewhere. Professor Charles Spence unraveled some of these secrets in his book ‘Gastrophysics: The New Science of Eating.’ Big firms like Nestle and PepsiCo also employ his formula to stimulate you to buy more.

No other satay experience compares to enjoying it with a sea view in Sipitang.

Over 20 years of research by Professor Charles Spence reveals that eating is a multisensory experience, engaging tastes, sights, sounds, smells, and emotions. These senses collectively shape our perception of food and contribute to the pleasure it brings. For instance, food may taste bland on airplanes due to the dampening effect of dry air, engine noise, low cabin pressure, and confined space on our senses.

Food tastes better when we’re relaxed and dining in a pleasant environment like by the seaside at sunset.

The multisensory atmosphere of Sipitang town is shaped by several factors:

  1. Emotions: Many visitors to Sipitang are holidaymakers with their families, and their relaxed and positive moods heighten their senses, enhancing their enjoyment of the satay.
  2. Sights: The breathtaking panoramic sea view and stunning sunset at Sipitang Esplanade add to the overall experience.
  3. Sounds: The soothing sea breeze and gentle lull of the waves create a relaxing auditory backdrop.
  4. Smells: The tantalising aroma of sizzling satay permeates the air, further enriching the sensory experience.
You also can order other food and drink at the hawker centre. e.g. Coconut juice (left) and Ais Batu Campur, the Mixed Ice Dessert (right)

Fine dining restaurants use classy background music, expensive cutlery, fancy decorations, and creative plating to offer a multisensory dining experience, so they can charge you three-digit prices for a meal. In contrast, the one-dollar satay in Sipitang is truly a steal for foodies.

After enjoying your satay, take a leisurely stroll at Sipitang Esplanade to soak in the beautiful view.

How to Get There

To get to the hawker centre selling Sipitang Satay, head approximately 140 km south of Kota Kinabalu City (KK) to the esplanade in the centre of Sipitang town (see Location Map or Street Map). The drive takes about 2 hours and 40 minutes on asphalt roads of fair condition.

Sipitang Esplanade in the town centre

As it’s a long journey, consider turning it into a road trip and exploring other towns such as Papar, Bongawan and Beaufort along the way. Keep in mind that during school holidays, Sipitang Satay may sell out earlier than usual.

Photos taken in Sipitang, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Lottery Rock makes you rich

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A car accident always causes traffic jam on the road of Sabah because many cars will slow down to copy the car plate number for buying “4D”. 4D means 4-digit lottery games (also known as Cash 4, Pick 4, and Play 4 overseas. Local Chinese calls it “??”), the favorite lottery type of Sabah people. You just select a 4-digit number from 0000 to 9999 then bet on it. Though most Malaysians hate mathematics class, 4D is the coolest number game for us.


Yes, we all knows that the chance of winning is slim. More likely it’s money wasted but somehow it’s a nice form of mental entertainment, and hey, for RM1.15, you can’t even buy a coke, so it’s not really a big lost. In many cases, we will shout at the result in delight “OH XYZ, I only miss by one number!” and smile to one another, as if we are one step closer to our dream. Some don’t play lottery and say “not buying is winning”. Well, if you never try, for sure the next million-dollar jackpot winner is never you. “No try No luck”.

Sabahans are so obsessed with 4D that if you tell them, “I saw a ghost last night.” ALL of us will reply spontaneously, “Did you ask him for 4D number?” So funny.. Anyway, some gamblers do summon the ghost for numbers.


Would you ask a ghost for lottery number?

For unknown reason, Chinese thinks that windfall is controlled by spiritual world. If your luck comes, a hidden force will hint you via different channels, for example, plate number of a car in accident, numbers appear in your dream, and any number shown up in unusual occasion.

When I was in Beaufort town, the locals told me that there is an amazing “Lottery Rock” (Chinese calls it “???”) that answers the prayer of gamblers, and some of them really won lottery. Based on very limited info, I tried to look for this rock which is located between Beaufort and Sipitang. After asking two villagers during the search, finally I found it a few KM before the junction to Weston town.


FYI, this rock is about 27 Kilometers (KM) away from Beaufort. When you head to Sipitang from Beaufort, just pay attention at the left side of the road after you pass by SK Maraba school and see the “25 Sipitang” signage. You will see a boardwalk shortly, like photos above.

Below is the location map of its exact location:

View My Sabah Map in a larger map


The shaded boardwalk will lead you to the golden Lottery Rock. This is an impressive big structure for an “unnamed” god. Even the God of Earth usually gets a 2×2 feet altar. To repay Lottery Rock for helping them to win lottery, the gamblers build wooden shelter, boardwalk, cement foundation, floor tiles, etc. for it.


I started to see scribbling of numbers the moment I walked in.


They even paint the Lottery Rock with shiny golden paint, so don’t get mistaken that it’s a gold rock ok, LOL.


Got any lucky number in mind? Just write it and make a wish.


Don’t limit yourself to 4D numbers. You may try jackpot numbers too. I guess Lottery Rock can read numbers in Chinese?


Since Lottery Rock has magical power, I believe it can understand your request in Malay language too.


You may see words like TOTO, Magnum, Lotto88 and STC (Sandakan Turf Club). These are the names of lottery companies. To make the job of Lottery Rock easier, it’s nice that some specified the company and even the draw date. Otherwise you will have to buy the same number from 4 companies, just to be safe.


The surface of Lottery Rock is full of 4D, 6D and jackpot numbers. I was told that whenever someone win big prize, he/she will repaint the rock with different color. When the rock surface is out of space, people will write the numbers everywhere in the hut. Do take note that if you win the lottery but you break your promise to the rock, you will be hit by bad luck, in serious case, death.


Even the small rock next to Lottery Rock also benefits from its fame.


See the termite nest next to the rock? People believe termite nest is a sign of presence of god.

You may watch the short video below to take a tour:

Click Here for wider video

When I was busy in photo-taking alone, I saw smoke coming from the rock and I heard something moving behind the rock. I felt a chill on my spine.


Phew… it was just a chicken behind the rock.


And the smoke was coming from the burning incense. Look at the 6D and 4D numbers in the container.


Actually the chicken was enjoying the biscuit, the offering left by the gambler for the rock. The left eye of this chicken is blind.


There are other offering such as betel nuts and leaves.


However, those offering accumulate and rot, turning this place into a smelly dumping ground.


The notice sign reads, “To show your respect to the god of rock, please keep this place clean and don’t litter after worship. Thank you for your cooperation.”


Ok, you might be curious, how did an ordinary rock become a popular magical rock?
Someone say, in the past, to construct the road between Beaufort and Sipitang, a group of workers moved away a rock that obstructed the way. However, later they discovered this rock came back to its original location. There are many taboo in construction industry, they believe this rock is occupied with spirit and shall not be moved. When a termite nest appeared next to it, people think this rock may bring wealth, so they prayed for winning lottery. And some did win, the rock becomes famous, so more and more people worship it until today.


Though I was hanging there for less than an hour, there were already two cars stopped by to visit and worship this rock. One of them told me that a number “5311” written on the rock won 2nd prize, by his friend the previous day. That’s why he also comes here to worship the rock. I checked the newspaper and he was right. If you pay attention to all my photos above, you would have noticed that 5311 appears 4 times in different spots.


Ok, as I was there, why don’t I also try my luck? I bought lottery tickets for 3 numbers, I never win a lottery in my life, please wish me luck. XD

Photos taken in Beaufort, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Long Pasia – Deforestation (part 6 of 6)

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Continued from Part 5…

Final Notes

In the movie “Avatar”, we’ve already seen how human greed can put the environment and mankind in threat. Unfortunately, this kind of scenario happens every day in Sabah. I have been introducing the beautiful nature of Sabah. But wherever I go, I always see destruction of environment going on. Frankly, I don’t know if these places will still look the same years later.

You have seen the beauty of Long Pasia in my blog, but I need to tell you that the forest of Long Pasia is not a forest reserve protected by government. Sabah Forest Industries (SFI), a logging company, who runs the pulp & paper mill in Sipitang, have been logging in Sipitang district, and the rampant logging is getting nearer to Long Pasia each year. Just look at the Google map below and that shall give you an idea. Based on the map, you already can tell there are some serious erosion problems in logging area.

SFI

SFI is a controversial company in the eyes of environmentalists. The effluent released by SFI mill into Brunei Bay has polluted the sea and kill the coral reefs. SFI also wants to build a 40MW coal power plant in Sipitang without the participation of the public and other stakeholders. Environmentalists also believe that the logging by SFI in upstream of Padas River has caused serious flood in other places such as Tenom (so don’t take this as the problem of Long Pasia only). But a politician (with the nickname “Vacuum”) promptly stood up and denied such claim. Personally, I don’t understand why government approves logging in sensitive water catchment area and slopes.

SFI is owned by an India company and most of their workers are Indian too. The locals also complain that they are not given much job opportunities that they deserve. That really makes me think if this foreign company loves our land and have the slightest concern for the sustainability of our forest resources. You can see the deforestation by SFI on the way to Long Pasia. But to be fair, they provide the road (logging road) to Long Pasia.


Click Here to see bigger video

Paper from Long Pasia

Personally I want to stop using A4 paper produced by SFI, but sadly the paper of SFI dominates 99% of Sabah market. Look at the packing on your paper rim and you will see the name “SFI”. Ourselves should be blamed too. Malaysians have wasteful behaviour. We waste food, water, electricity and PAPER. Please always keep in mind that the paper that we are using is probably coming from the trees of Long Pasia. Do NOT waste. Think before you print. Reduce, Recycle and Reuse the paper.

I really hope the government will gazette the forest of Long Pasia as a forest reserve soon, and such policy is totally in line with the initiatives of the Heart of Borneo.

Photos taken in Long Pasia, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Long Pasia – Back to Kota Kinabalu (part 5 of 6)

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Continued from Part 4…

DAY 4 – Fall in Love with Long Pasia

Taman Kerangas (Heath Forest Garden)

Before we leave Long Pasia, we check out the Heath Forest Garden nearby the village, only a 20-minute walk away. Taman Kerangas is a garden (private land) where locals put all the wild orchids they rescued from logged forest. There are over 320 orchid species found in Long Pasia, and the new species is still being discovered.


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At first I thought Taman Kerangas was a well-maintained garden with all the blooming flora neatly organised and a place great for leisure walk. I was wrong. Taman Kerangas looks more like a forest, with muddy and steep trail, dense undergrowth vegetation and lurking leeches. I was wearing the last set of clean clothing for the last day and didn’t expect to get dirty. After walking nearly 1KM of dirty trail, and with leech crawling on my jacket, to be honest, I was quite angry.


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Anyway, I still got some beautiful flower shots though not many orchids were blooming. Just remember to wear jungle outfit when you come here. Taman Kerangas is so near to the village, so it still worth the time to take a look.

Last Day

I enjoy my last peaceful morning in Long Pasia. Today we are going home, but I don’t really feel happy that it’s over. Instead, I feel a bit sad leaving. As a frequent traveller, I come and go, without leaving my heart behind in other places. I have a special feeling about Long Pasia, and I’ll come back again one day. I feel a connection with this place but not sure what it is.


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Click Here to see bigger video

We have a tea break in the living room before we leave. A black chick comes in, walk around and chirp. Lait says this chick has no mother and always alone. It seems to enjoy being our company and sit quietly on our lap, so Mary decides to take it home and name it “Pasia”. Lat also gives Nova one of his paintings. Seem like everyone got something. I also bag some good photos and sweet memories too.


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Above: we have a new friend going home with us

Good bye Long Pasia. It is wonderful to know you…


>> Click Here to see more photos of Long Pasia

If you would like to go to Long Pasia, please contact Mr. Eddie at 011-12017897. The attractions that I blog here is only a small part of Long Pasia. Long Pasia has many other attractions such as Tiger Hill, Hidden Lake, Maga Waterfall, Crocodile monument, etc. Since Long Pasia is far away, I strongly recommend tourists to have a longer stay. What’s the point of having a 3-day trip but spending 2 days on the road, right? You don’t need to do hardcore adventure like me, as there are many leisure activities such as river cruise around the village too.

>> Read Next Article (Part 6)

Photos taken in Long Pasia, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Long Pasia – Fefukan & Mataga Waterfalls (part 4 of 6)

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Continued from Part 3…

DAY 3 – RETURNING TO LONG PASIA VILLAGE

My biological clock wakes me up at 6am. My knee pain is gone after a long rest. I grab my camera and tripod and walk straight to Fefukan Waterfall to take some photos. I didn’t get a good shot of this waterfall yesterday coz it was dark by the time we arrived the campsite. Lait (our guide) also joined me.

Fefukan Waterfall

With a wide of 20 Meters and height of about 3 Meters, Fefukan Waterfall is one of the most unique and beautiful waterfalls that I’ve ever seen. I can sit there, staring at it for whole day without getting bored. In local language, Fefukan means the sound of beating. Some fishes try to jump over this waterfall during migration season. The fishermen will wait with a stick and hunt the fishes by beating them.

>> Click Here to see more photos of Long Pasia

I’m so proud to be one of the first Sabahan tourists who visit this waterfall. This is probably the first time the photos and video of Fefukan being shared online. The water is freezing cold. Crazy Lait is the only model who is keen to walk into the icy water for me to photograph. Thank you Lait, for helping me to get some excellent shots.


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Mataga Waterfall

It is a 2-in-1 bonus to come to Fefukan, as there is another waterfall nearby. Without hesitation, I joined Lait to explore the second waterfall, the Mataga Waterfall (Astaga Waterfall? Hehe..). Mataga means “beautiful” in Lundayeh language. It is only a 30-minute walk from Fefukan Waterfall.

Mataga is a newly discovered waterfall. Again, we are the first local tourists who visit it. Most of the time, we walked upstream along a small river to find Mataga Waterfall. We saw a few long-tailed macaques on the trees. To avoid getting wet, I had to remove my leech socks, and later find that two fat leeches sucking my blood between the toes, then followed by hour of bleeding, yaks! The bite marks are still visible after 3 weeks.


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Mataga Waterfall is about 50 feet tall. Though taller than Fefukan, it is lack of character. It is windy around the waterfall with splashing water. I shot only a few photos. One of the guides also collects some plant from the waterfall as herb.


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Going Home

We got back to Fefukan campsite for breakfast at 8:50am. Wow, we have kancil (mouse deer) soup and fried rice as breakfast today! The meat of mouse deer is a bit chewy and taste like beef, nice… Before we left, everyone decided to take a final dip in Fefukan Waterfall. I’ll never forget this beautiful place and joyful moment.


Above: mouse deer soup as breakfast!


Above: Lait insists we must play the “Wild men of Long Pasia”


>> Click Here to see more photos of Long Pasia


>> Click Here to see more photos of Long Pasia

We finished packing our stuffs and headed to Lelawid at 10:30am, where the boats will pick us up. Probably of the mouse deer soup, everyone walks as fast as a deer. We reached the river by 3pm, just on time for our late lunch. This time we had wild boar intestines soup, steamed tapioca and Pelian fishes (which was trapped in fishing net we setup yesterday). Pelian fish can be sold for RM60 (about USD$18) per Kg. It tastes really sweet but has a lot of Y-shaped bones in its meat. The wild boar intestine is as hard as rubber, very hard to chew and smell fishy.


Above: steamed tapioca in bamboo


Above: wild boar intestines soup, dare to try?


Above: Pelian fishes from Matang River

We left by boat at 3:30pm. Coz we follow the stream direction and the water level is higher today, we reach Long Pasia village at 6pm, quick fast. I saw a “moving wire” on the boat. At first I thought it was just a thread being moved by breeze. Then I notice it is a living thing. They call it “Cacing Sungai” (river worm). A search on the Net tells me that it is a horsehair worm or Gordian worm ( Nematomorpha ).


Click Here to see bigger video

Horsehair worm is a sinister parasite lives in water. If an insect such as cricket, mantis and beetle consumes the water which contains its eggs, the egg will hatch and grow inside its host. After weeks or months, the worm is fully grown (30 to 50cm long) and wants to get back to the water, so it’ll release a chemical to “mind-control” the host to walk into water, and then it crawls out of the butt of the host and swim away. In most cases, their host will die due to serious injury. Infection on human is possible but very rare.

It starts to rain when we walk home. I think we are really blessed. It’ll be terrible if it rains when we are in the jungle or river. However, I still catch a cold and sick for 2 weeks. We are so glad that the trip is mostly over. We are back to our homestay family and go to bed early. Zzzz….

>> Read Next Article (Part 5)

Photos taken in Long Pasia, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Long Pasia – To the Heart of Borneo (part 3 of 6)

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Continued from Part 2…

Fefukan Waterfall is the newest attraction at the south of Long Pasia. There were only 4 foreign tourists (from UK, Denmark, Italy and Holland) have been there, and we are the first group of Sabahan tourists.

Jungle Trekking to Fefukan Waterfall

Even after 3.5 hour of rapid shooting on Matang River, we still need to walk 4 to 5 hours on 10 KM of undulating terrain to get there. We started the jungle trekking at 1PM. Luckily we have a few porters to carry some of our stuffs. In addition to the camping tent and cooking utensil, each of them can take weight as heavy as 50 Kg (but still walk faster than us)!


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Because very few people walked this route before, the trail is in the most pristine and challenging condition. The trail is raw, slippery, muddy, foliaged and dense with undergrowth vegetation. If we are not careful, we will trip over crawling vines, rattan and tree roots on the ground, so be prepared to get dirty. A pair of Addidas Kampung shoes (“Village Addidas”, a water-proof rubber shoes) is highly recommended for such rainforest walk. For the beginning, we need to walk to the highest point, followed by easier up and down trail, then a long and steep descending trail to the campsite.


Above: teasing message on the tree bark

Needless to say, there are hundreds of forest leeches waiting along the trail. Very soon I found a tiger leech crawling on my camera. The good news is – once we move to higher altitude, there will be no more tiger leech but brown leech. Brown leech is much more easier to deal with and its bite is not painful (sometimes I can’t even feel it). Unlike tiger leech, which likes to hide in the shrub & bush, brown leech is mainly active on forest floor, so wearing leech sock is safe enough. I notice that the brown leeches here are so big, as big as tiger leech!


Above: Tiger leech delivers painful bite

With an altitude of 800 Meters above sea level, this forest is mainly a mix of hill dipterocarp forest and lower montane forest. Most trees are slim and no taller than 25 Meters, except the Agathis and Seraya Kuning trees. The jungle trekking reminds me of Maliau Basin, Sabah’s Lost World. Long Pasia is indeed another Lost World of Sabah, but with more cultural and historical heritages. Unfortunately, the forest here is not protected by the government.


Above: Agathis tree only grows between hill forest and montane forest


Above: huge seraya kuning tree

We also stopped occasionally to explore some jungle resources. The guide shows us how to get fresh water from the wild vines. I drank and it tasted fresh, with thin smell of grass. The water also can be used as eye tonic. Then they pluck some wild oranges for us to try, it is very sour but an energy booster.


Above: cutting vine for fresh water


Above: drinking water from vine

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Above: wild orange

We found some big chunk of resin beside an Agathis tree. They are hard and look like crystal. The guide took some with them coz these resins are good fire starter. In old day, they use this resin as torch and candle. It burns like rubber and release black smoke. But be careful not to let the burning liquid drips on your skin, coz it sticks and able to burn you badly.


Above: resin of Agathis tree


Click Here to see bigger video

After passing the highest point, the trail is less rugged and we walk quite fast. Our favourite part is the ridge walk. It is very windy and cooling, like a huge air-cond, and blows away our fatigue. There are supposed to be a lot of wildlife such as deer around, but we see only a few monkey. However, we see the wallow of wild boar and claw marks on the tree bark.


Above: wallow of wild boar


If you are very lucky, you would see blooming rafflesia pricei before Fefukan Waterfall, the one shown in photo above was blooming in April 2012.

As the trail is not clearly visible and no signage, we follow our guide closely, otherwise there is a 100% chance of getting lost here. Sometimes Lait stops and looks around, as if he is trying to recall the right way, making me nervous. “That’s the fun part!” they say. I have no idea how far we go until I hear the distant waterfall. Walking the descending trail is really a knee-breaking experience. The trail is narrow and slippery so we can’t move fast, putting a lot of stress on our knees. I almost want to cry when we saw Fefukan Waterfall at 5:30pm.


Above: Fefukan Waterfall

Campsite of Fefukan Waterfall

Our campsite is only 30 Meters away from Fefukan Waterfall. In fact, we went so far that we were so close to the border of Kalimantan. Another walk for 3 to 4 hours will lead us to the immigration checkpoint at the border. We are at the Heart of Borneo!


Above: campsite at Fefukan Waterfall

It is getting dark soon, so the guide and porters setup our camp and beds next to the river, and prepare our dinner. They don’t want to damage the environment, so there is no permanent facility here, no toilet, no hut, no cabin… All we have are hammock or canvas beds, with a sheet of canvas on top to block the rain. I never slept on a hammock before, so I choose the hammock bed closest to the waterfall.


Above: setting up campsite

Below is a 360 degree view of our campsite:

Click Here to see bigger video


Above: canvas bed


Above: hammock bed

>> Click Here to see more photos of Long Pasia


Above: Mary cooking dinner


Above: there is no light, so we eat in the dark with torchlight

Night Safari

We had some rice, sardine (with onion) and instant noodle as dinner. Everyone was so tired so most went to bed earlier. Lait decided to show me around the campsite and waterfall at night to spot interesting creatures. We found some frogs, insects and fireflies. Though leech is less active at night, I still get 6 of them sneaking into my shoes. Then it started to rain. I had no choice but going to bed.


Above: fireflies playing 3P wild sex


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The Cold Night

Can you imagine sleeping in the forest of Heart of Borneo and next to a waterfall? It just can’t get any better than this. I enjoyed the sound of nature. There are occasionally some twinkling fireflies passing by my tent. I fell asleep very soon. The temperature can plunge to 14 degree Celsius (14°C) at night. It was so cold that I shivered in my thin sleeping bag, then I had to wake up in midnight to wear extra clothing. My knees were quite painful coz of day-long trekking.


Above: my hammock bed

About 2am, in total darkness, my hammock shakes violently, as if a big animal knocks on my tent. I was so shock and pointed my torch light around, but see nothing. I found that my hammock is lowered by a few inches, so I guess the knot got loosen and slide down, phew… scary but funny, haha.


Above: preparing mouse deer meat for tomorrow’s meal

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Photos taken in Long Pasia, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Long Pasia – Rapid Shooting (part 2 of 6)

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Continued from Part 1…

DAY 2 – AN EVENTFUL DAY

It’s a cold morning in Long Pasia, so cold that all the chicks seek for warmness under the belly of their mother hen. After a heavy breakfast, we got ready for a long trip to Fefukan Waterfall. The journey will start with 3-hour of rapid shooting (river cruise) on Matang River (Sungai Matang) to Lelawid camp, then a 4-5 hours of jungle trekking (about 10 KM).


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Rapid Shooting

At 8:30am, we gathered at the riverside next to the village. When I saw our boat transport, I felt apprehensive. It’s a wooden long boat powered by an engine at the rear. To me, it is only a bit better than a bamboo raft and its wobbly body does not instil any confidence at all. For newbie who tries to stand on this boat, there is a 90% chance he will fall into river within 3 minutes. The slightest wrong move seems to be able to capsize this boat.


Above: gather at riverside


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We loaded our backpacks onto the boats then we departed. To keep the boat balance and stable, everyone must sit still in the center. It sounds easy but my butt hurt in long hours of cruising, and I have to shift my weight occasionally (right and left butt haha).

Besides a boatman who controls the engine at the rear, there is a navigator at the front. He will read the river for a safer route and use his long pole to push the boat away from bumping into boulder or to hold the boat in strong current. Only person with strong muscle and balancing skill can handle such tasks.


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It was quite a smooth ride on Matang River. I enjoyed the cool breeze and beautiful riverine forest view along the river. At first I worried that the water would splash my camera, but very soon I took out my camera and started shooting. For birds, I saw egrets, heron and stork-billed kingfisher. The river is a bit murky but cold and clean.


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As you can see in the video above, later our wooden boat proved that it’s the best river transport. We got around fallen log, went against stream, moved between rocks, and cutting through numerous rapids. There were a few times we had to get into the water and push the boats over shallow river. After 1.5 hour, we stopped briefly at the monument of Prince Henrik from Denmark, who camped there in year 2002.


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Ancient Burial Site

At 11am, we stopped by an ancient burial site next to the river. There are more than 10 “coffin” jars scattered inside the forest. We also found fragment of human skulls and bones. It is a traditional practice for our ancestors to bury the dead inside a big jar, and then they will move the bones into smaller jars. And most of these jars are from China hundred years ago. It is not too hard to tell that the jars are “Made in China” coz some have figure of dragon on them. I am not an expert on antique. I only know jars and ceramics of Ming and Qing Dynasties were widely traded in Borneo in the past.


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Batu Narit – the Love Rock

We went on with our rapid shooting. 15 minutes later, a white boulder caught my attention coz its color looked different from other boulders. And I was right. The guide brought us to the opposite side of this boulder and we saw unusual circular carving on the surface.

Lait told me that according to the carbon dating done by a local university, the age of the carving is about 600 years old. The carving is so smooth that they wonder what kind of tool was being used. Based on the legend of Lundayeh, it is a finger-drawing by Upai Semarin, an ancestor giant with super natural power. Another version is – it was carved by a man who missed his deceased wife, so romantic…


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This boulder seems to have life (or you may call it my superstitious feeling). I touched it and the surface is a bit soft. Personally, I think it is possible to produce such carving if we use wood with rounded-tip to scratch the rock surface persistently. This historical remnant really needs protection coz the algae is slowing eroding the rock face.

Lunch Break

When we were getting closer, there was a rapid almost every 50 Meters. Oh yes, we reached Lelawid, the starting point of our jungle trekking, at 12pm. It is next to a convergence point of two rivers and they lay a fishing net across the river (you will know what we got later).


Above: laying fishing net


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Later we will need to walk about 4 to 5 hours in jungle to Fefukan Waterfall, so we have our lunch at the riverside first. It is like a picnic, so fun. We had some Long Pasia rice, with curry and hot dog. What I like the most is the small and salty “Ikan Sawah” fish. It’s so soft that you can eat its bone.


Above: Long Pasia rice with salty Ikan Sawah fishes

At last, the toughest activity of the trip is about to start… We will walk to the Fefukan Waterfall campsite.


Above: get ready for jungle trekking

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Photos taken in Long Pasia, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Long Pasia – adventure to the Heart of Borneo (part 1 of 6)

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I’ll pick Long Pasia as my hometown, if I were to born as an “orang kampong” (villager) in Sabah. More than 250KM away from Kota Kinabalu, Long Pasia is located in south-western corner of Sabah, very near to border of Kalimantan (Indonesia). With an altitude of 1,000 Meters above sea level, cool mist frequents Long Pasia, hiding some least-known natural and historical heritages of the Heart of Borneo.

Since year 2005, I have been thinking of visiting Long Pasia. My father had been there and told me about this beautiful and remote place. Finally I had the chance to join a 4-day-3-night adventure with a group of friends in early Nov. Below is the outline of our Long Pasia trip:
Day 1: Depart to Long Pasia homestay
Day 2: Rapid shooting & jungle trekking to (and camping at) Fefukan Waterfall
Day 3: Back to Long Pasia homestay
Day 4: Back to Kota Kinabalu city
You may Click Here to see the detail itinerary.

DAY 1 – GOING TO LONG PASIA

Road Trip to Sipitang

The road trip to Long Pasia took us about 9 hours (8am – 5pm), as we made a few stops. The beginning part is easy; we drove 2.5 hours on a paved road from Kota Kinabalu city to Sipitang town (144KM). At 10:30am, we reached Sipitang, where we had our early lunch and purchased food supplies for camping. Sipitang has undergone some changes and now it has a nice sea-view esplanade.

We also met up with our Long Pasia guide, Lait. At first look, you have no doubt he is a competent “jungle man” coz he is muscular. I’m surprised that he is also a talent artist, and his drawing is so fine and detail, a big contrast to his rugged figure. He always has a mischievous smile on his face, as if he would play a prank on you anytime (and he does!). He is a naughty and playful big boy, this trip would be less fun without this friendly guide as our company.


Above: Lait, our guide


Above: Bestamart Supermarket

After lunch & briefing, we dropped by Bestamart supermarket of Sipitang, to get some stuffs for our camping. We bought biscuit, instant noodle, can food (sardine, curry), 3-in-1 coffee mix, onion, vegetables, water, oat meal, sugar & salt, cooking oil, etc.

Then we loaded our bags and supplies to a 4-wheel drive. Long Pasia is 123 KM away from Sipitang, and it’ll be a 4-5 hours bumpy ride on a hilly gravel road (a logging road in fact). The road was dry and dusty that time. But in rainy season, the road will turn muddy and slippery, only accessible by 4WD. It sounds very isolated, but the most beautiful and pristine places of Sabah are always in remote region.

Iban Longhouse

We visited an Iban longhouse about 15-minutes away from Sipitang. I knew there were some Iban people living in Tawau district (South-east of Sabah), but didn’t know some of them lived in Sipitang too. Though this longhouse is a modern version, it is really long and able to house about 40 families. The veranda is so long and wide that some children have fun racing on it back and forth.

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The most distinct feature of this longhouse is the deer skull decors at each door. I saw the skulls of Sambar Deer and Barking Deer (Kijang). We only stopped here for 10 minutes, and then we continued our journey to Long Pasia.

Road Trip to Long Pasia

Very soon we hit the rough gravel road. We passed by small villages, plantation (e.g. rubber, banana, paddy, tapioca, maize) and rivers, most of the time we were surrounded by lush hill forest and saw no other car. Sadly, we also saw logging trucks and deforestation done by SFI (Sabah Forest Industries). You may watch the video below to get an idea of the road trip.


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When we were about an hour from Long Pasia, we found that a bridge in front of us collapsed. Luckily a truck and excavator were there to make a new way. Within 30 minutes, we could move on again.

Long Pasia Village

Finally we arrived Long Pasia at 5pm. Long Pasia means “Mouth of the Red River” (though I want to call it “Long….. Passage” due to the long ride). First thing I felt was the fresh and cool air (remind me of Kundasang town decades ago). This highland village is always in dense mist in the morning and late afternoon. Surrounded by mountains, forest and rivers, Long Pasia is the one of the few villages closest to true nature and wilderness. They said an eagle grabbed a chick when we got there.


Above: Long Pasia


Above: Paddy field

Most of the 600 villagers here are Lundayeh people, which means “People of the Interior or Upriver”. In the past, they were headhunters, as well as a strong rival to another headhunting tribe, Murut (means “People of the Hill”). Now most of them are Christians and work as farmers, fishermen and hunters, and they are one of the friendliest people I meet.

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Long Pasia is unlike the typical Malay kampong (village) in other parts of Malaysia. Most villagers still converse in Lundayeh, though they speak fluent Malaysia language. Lundayeh is also found in Sarawak (known as Lumbawang instead) and Kalimantan. To see their differences in costumes, you may see my blog on Lundayeh Festival.

We walked around Long Pasia in late afternoon. We were greeted by friendly villagers and felt so welcomed as a guest. Many were playing soccer and volleyball on the field as past-time. I noticed there were so many dogs, probably as many as the human population here. FYI, you will be fined RM500 (USD$150) for killing a dog, coz many of them are trained as a hunting dog, a loyal partner that follows the hunters in and out forest for days.

Another “feature” of Long Pasia is the Solar Panel outside every house. There is no power line here, so they rely on stored solar electricity for basic lighting and TV. This solar panel costs about RM15,000 (it is funded but I don’t know by who)! If they need more power, they will turn on the generator on demand, so I can charge my camera batteries. You can save a lot on electricity bill by living here, coz we don’t need air-conditioner in cool place like Long Pasia.


Above: Street light powered by solar panel


Above: Huge solar panel

My mobile phone got no line coverage here. I was told that they have Internet connection by satellite in the village, so some of them even have Facebook accounts. Not only that, many houses also have Astro channel (satellite TV).


Above: SK Long Pasia, first school in Long Pasia

Long Pasia Homestay

For first day, we stayed with a local family (Dina & Janet) in Long Pasia. The people here realise the importance of eco-tourism and nature. About 15 houses have registered under the Homestay program. Under the education of environmental bodies, the villagers reduce the cutting of forest and hunting of wildlife, especially in tourist areas, though these have been their traditional practices for centuries.


Above: our homestay in Long Pasia

The standard of living here has improved over the years, and most villagers are self-sufficient. You won’t find yourselves staying under the roof of a water-leaking broken hut. In fact, their houses are spacious, comfortable and well-furnished, just as good as the houses in city. As pamper city people, we only had problem to bathe with icy mountain water. We went into the shower room, screamed then stormed out in 2 minutes, probably the shortest shower that we’ve ever taken, lol…


Above: our bed

The evening was getting cold and it was so nice that the family cooked a hot dinner for us. We ate a lot of delicious fresh vegetables that planted and harvested locally. Do you know that Long Pasia produces the best rice in Sabah? It’s so soft and yummy that I had 3 plates.

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Long Pasia Homestay has been around for some years, but it is under-promoted. Personally I think Long Pasia is the best homestay in Sabah and many will agree with me. Besides accessibility issue, many tour operators (outsiders) are only interested in earning more $$$ by building luxury chalet there then charging tourists a “5-star” price, just like what happens to Mt. Kinabalu now. I will only opt for homestay coz it benefits the local community, not a few blood-sucking tour players.


Above: homestay with Rose’s family

After a briefing by Lait for the trip next day, we went to bed. Tomorrow we will explore one of the most remote places in Borneo, even to the locals, the Fefukan Waterfall. Long Pasia has many attractions such as Tiger Hill and Maga Waterfall, but Fefukan is totally new and far away.

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Photos taken in Long Pasia, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo