Tag Archives: Beaufort

Garama river cruise

Deluxe River Cruise in Klias-Garama Rivers

Near to Beaufort town and 1.5 hours drive from Kota Kinabalu city, Klias Wetland is the biggest peat swamp forest of Sabah. As Klias is the habitat of wildlife such as proboscis (long-nosed) monkey, silver-leaf monkey and firefly, it attracts thousands of tourists every year. I have tried river cruise in Klias wetland a few times. Basically what the tour operators do is – they put the tourists sitting on a small speed boat, cruise along Klias or Garama River, to spot for monkey on the trees of the river bank. At night, they will bring tourists to see fireflies.

However, OIB Tours (Only in Borneo) now offers a totally different new experience. Personally I call it an excellent example of Blue Ocean Strategy (which create new niche and make ordinary competition irrelevant). They turn a 80-feet wooden fishing boat into a tourist house-boat named “Kunang-Kunang” (means Firefly), the first deluxe river cruise tour in Sabah.


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Though I was invited, I had no idea what they meant by deluxe river cruise. At first, we need to travel 2 hours by land to their riverside base camp in Garama. FYI, Klias and Garama are adjacent to each other and both are the rivers in Klias Wetland (Peninsular).

We get out of our bus and walk about 10 minutes on a boardwalk to reach Garama Base Camp. The starting doesn’t look luxury. I am perfectly ok with the walk, but I dislike oil palm.


We took a short tea break at the base camp of OIB.


Then we got onboard on small speed boats and started our river cruise at 4:30pm.


Above: our guide, DJ, looked for monkey.


Above: a group of tourists saw the proboscis monkey. Compare to Kilas River, the Garama River is smaller and have many narrow maze-like network, but you can get closer to the monkey.


Above: we spot a few herds of proboscis monkey at the riverside.

For me, this is quite an ordinary river cruise like most other travel agents offer. You may watch the video of “ordinary” river cruise below. Later you can compare this with the deluxe river cruise:

After 30-minute of river cruise in Garama River, we are transferred to the 80-feet house boat “Kunang-Kunang” in Klias River at 5pm:


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Above: everyone is so excited and check out the boat. The dining and resting area looks big.


Kunang-Kunang is a double-deck boat. It can accommodate 30 to 50 people, really great for private party and company annual dinner. You may have a wedding party onboard too. Sound much more fun than those formal and boring functions in hotel.


Above: introduce to you the captain of Kunang-Kunang. He is blind actually. Haha, just kidding..


The view from upper deck is so nice! See the lush mangrove forest behind them?


Another photo taken on upper deck. You can have a very open and 360 degree view of Klias River.


The boat moves slowly and very stable, none of us got seasick. Everyone was as happy as a kid on this big boat.

You may watch the 5-minute video below to have a 360-degree look of both lower and upper decks:


>> Click Here to see more photos of Deluxe River Cruise


Kunang-Kunang was once a fishing boat, of course you can try fishing on it.


If you are lucky, you may catch “Udang Galah”, an odd-looking big prawn from the river. It is edible and sold for RM20+ per Kilograms in market.


For me, I prefer to do nothing and just enjoy my beer, hehe..


There were many small tourists boats passed by. We can see from the faces of these tourists that they are so envy and want to be on our big boat too, lol.


Due to cloudy weather, the sunset that day was not so spectacular but we still had good time anyway.


After sunset, we saw non-stop traffic of flocks of “birds” on the sky. See the small dots in photo above? They kept on coming. When the day turned darker, they fly lower. I notice that the way they fly is very strange. These are not birds.


They are flying fox (fruit bat) and hundreds of them flying over our boat. I didn’t know Klias has flying fox. You can see it at the end of my last video.




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We also enjoyed our dinner onboard. It has been a fun trip and I can see that everyone is really happy. So… you know what to propose to your company for annual dinner? 😉

After dinner, our boat started to return to Base Camp. Suddenly the boat turned off all the light. In total darkness, we saw many “Christmas trees”, which in fact are synchronized flashes from hundreds, even thousands, of twinkling fireflies congregated on the trees. There are nearly 50 of such “Summer Christmas Trees” along the Klias River. Though it’s the highlight, too bad I can’t show you any photo coz it’s impossible to take photos. A few fireflies even fly to our boat!

For pricing info and reservation, you may contact OIB Tours.

Photos taken in Beaufort, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Day Trip in Membakut

Earlier this year, I went to Membakut for a day trip. Thanks to Emily, I discovered the charm of Membakut. Membakut is a town about 80 KM away from Kota Kinabalu city and near to Beaufort.

There is a long paved road in Binsulok of Membakut. The road is in good condition and its end leads to a ferry terminal that brings you to Kuala Penyu. Driving along this road is a pleasure experience. Besides the scenic countryside view, the best part is the Binsulok River next to the road. The mangrove forest of Binsulok River is still in pristine condition. The dense mangrove is so green and beautiful that I pulled my car over a few times to take photos.


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Mangrove forest is the nursery and bleeding ground of seafood such as fishes and crab. Needless to say, the river becomes the popular fishing spot for the locals. Whenever I went, I saw villagers carrying fishing rods. I think this river is also a great place for kayaking.


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Mangrove trees really grow inside the water. The peculiar stilt root of mangrove allows the tree to breathe. Sabah has largest area of mangrove in Malaysia. However, very few knows that that’s why Sabah has abundant seafood. Sabah is a hilly state, so the mangrove area at the coastal (flat) area is constantly under pressure of development and will be clear anytime. If our mangrove is gone, so will our seafood.


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Photos below: The trees look like being soaked in flood water but they actually survive well in such condition.


But what interest me the most is the sundew grows on the river bank. At first I know they are fallen fruit. A closer look reveals that they might the carnivorous plant that I’ve been looking for. I never expect I would see them in Membakut.


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Then we came to a riverside hut that looks like a great place for fishing and relaxing. Unfortunately, it is very poorly maintained.

The plank on the boardwalk is in bad shape..

Centre part of the hut is sinking and would collapse.

To make thing worse, some idiots made camp fire inside the wooden hut, creating big holes inside the hut. I guess it’s the irresponsible act by the local anglers.

There is a toilet next to the hut. The door is gone…

If you follow the Binsulok River, you will find its water flows to the sea in Pimping Beach. That’s why the sea water of Pimping Beach is brackish in color and you will find foam along the shore and float on the sea, probably caused by the mixture of sea and river water. It was holiday but no people swimming so I assume the sea is not cool for swimming.



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That’s all my “adventure” in Membakut. I got a video of Pimping Beach below if you are interested in looking closer at the weird foam.

Photos taken in Membakut, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Feng Shui House

I don’t know how much you believe in Feng Shui (Feng means wind, Shui means water). But I know many bosses and companies do, some even spend 5-digit figure to hire a Feng Shui consultant to design the best Feng Shui arrangement for office interior. Damn… I should had invested in studying in Feng Shui. Look at the fortune of Lilian Too. There is a saying “Feng shui guru can cheat you for 8 years 10 years” because it is hard to prove that they are wrong. I am a bit skeptical about Feng Shui, but not totally in disbelief. After all, it is a thousand-year old knowledge, in many parts backed by science and experience.

Don’t know if you notice Chinese like to have fish tank in their houses and shops? Not that they really love fishes. In Feng Shui, fish tank is a body of water can neutralise bad luck. Chinese also think that best Feng Shui house is the one facing sea and backed by mountain. That’s why you see many Chinese temples built in such location. Building a house right next to a 3-road or 4-road junction is very bad in Feng Shui. Like the photo above I took in Beaufort, a house next to a junction setup feng shui cannon.

Some Feng Shui books say people live in house next to such junction could get bad luck easily. I was told that evil spirits are more likely to wander around such area. The fake cannons are probably to scare them away. Certain businesses tend to believe Feng Shui more than others, especially those that have strong connection with luck factors, spirits and crime, such as gambling, PR, lumbering and police. Many years ago, a fortune teller told me that water element was bad for my career, but fire element was good. After knowing I studied in computer science, he noded, “hmmm… computer is electronic, electricity is fire, good, good…” Though I didn’t really believe this, it was a relief somehow.

Some Feng Shui theories have scientific basis. For example, Feng Shui says you should not plant a tall tree next to your house. Well, the reason is quite obvious and common sense. If the big tree falls one day, it will crush your house. Instead of giving a scientific explanation, Feng Shui would give very “deep” reason such as the bad spirits would hide in the tree shadow, making the whole thing sounds so superstitious.

Basically, Feng Shui is about changing the flow of magnetic field to repel bad energy (e.g. sickness, bad luck, evil spirits) and draw good energy (e.g. fortune, luck, morale, health). That’s why in horror movie, you always can see a Feng Shui guru checks the site with Feng Shui compass. If the pointer spins like crazy, it means presence of ghost.. For this feng Shui house in Beaufort, the cannons are pointing to a old building only 10 Meters away. That is a gazetted building built by British colony hundred years ago. During World War II, Japanese used it as hospital. Some locals believe there are spirits lingering around it…

Photos taken in Beaufort, Sabah Malaysia

Bongawan town

Bongawan is about 70 KM away from Kota Kinabalu (KK), located between Kimanis and Beaufort. On the way to Beaufort, when you see a gambus musical instrument in the roundabout, just take a right turn. Most of the population here are Orang Brunei. I went to Bongawan on Saturday when they have tamu (open market), coz that’s where you can tell a lot about the locals by looking at what they sell and what they eat.


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Actually I didn’t know what to expect in Bongawan, as very little is known about this place. My presence soon attracted a lot of attention, probably due to the camera that I was carrying. I walked in tamu, pretending I was a tourist and thought they would lose interest in couple of minutes. I was wrong. They greeted me warmly and learnt about my purpose. One of the hawker even gave me a free “cap-kuih”, a fried bread with very crispy skin, soft and creamy inside. I also tried the “Bachal”, a rojak-like (mixed vegetables) food wrapped in banana leaf.

The people are friendly but a bit camera-shy. When I took their photos, their friends will tease them. When it was their turn, others would laugh back. A young Orang Brunei girl even can speak Chinese.


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When I was walking around, a few locals kept on pointing at a old wooden building, trying to show me the feature of the town. It is (see below) a pre-war shophouse built in British colony time. A senior local says this 10-shop building is a mix of 1922 and 1939 shop joined together, though there is a year stamp “1939” on it.

Kimanis and Membakut also have this kind of building but look newer. Fire has destroyed some post-war building in Tamparuli and Beaufort. Once this historical heritage is gone, it will be replaced by cement structure (which would last less than 20 years by the standard of Sabah developers).

Below is a photo of 1950 post-war building, just in front of the 1939 shophouse. The shops in ground floor are usually sell food or grocery stores. The first floor is family house.

Bongawan was once a heavily guided town of Japanese during World War 2 coz Beaufort railway was the key transport centre. I was trying to know more about the Japanese occupation from a 80-year old local. He said everyone was hiding in the wood, and there was a massacre happened in Kota Belud but the bodies could not be found.

A local let me visited the kitchen inside the 1939 building. Besides tap water, there was a well behind the shop. The toilet has no toilet bowl, and you only see a small hole at the bottom. It makes me feeling uneasy to pee to the ground. Frankly, it was quite fun coz I didn’t need to aim, haha…


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Kopi-O Ping (ice coffee) costs how much in KK? RM1.80 per glass right? A bottle of ice coffee is only RM1.40 in Bongawan! They fill the coffee in used Tiger / Carlsberg beer bottle then cold it in refrigerator. The glass bottle allows the thorough cooling of coffee, and the ice coffee has been served like this for at least 20 years. So far I only find such”featured drink” in Bongawan.


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Besides the town itself, I also checked out the Kopi-O+Teh-C (coffee + milk tea) rivers in Ulu Bongawan, a village and plantation region 1.5 KM away from town. When the brackish river flows into the brown river, it looks like milk tea special. Too bad it is not big enough, otherwise it can be one of the 7 wonders in Sabah. Bongawan beach, about 2.5 KM away, is also a nice and white sandy beach to hang around.

I wonder what will happen to the old shophouses in the future. Hopefully the government will preserve them. I will come back again many years later to see if they will vanish under development…

Photos taken in Bongawan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Beaufort Kaamatan

The launching of Kaamatan Festival (Harvest Festival) on May 1 every year marked the beginning of Kaamatan celebration, which lasts for a month. Today the world food shortage crisis makes Kaamatan more important, as rice is our main source of food. Sadly, more crop such as oil palm is planted to feed the cars (with biodiesel) than the mouth. Every year we got funding for aiding rice plantation. However, after many years, we still heavily count on imported rice. Now our government is crying for more fund. I wonder how the money was used in the past.


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Mother’s Day also falls in May. That reminds me the story of Huminodun, the greatest Mother of mankind coz she sacrificed herself. Her spirit resided in the paddy and became the 7-in-1 Bambarayon (Rice Soul). But the harvesting and processing of the paddy will split these spirits apart. That’s why KadazanDusun people have Magavau ceremony, to recover the Rice Soul, to ensure a good harvest again next time. Sumazau dance is also performed to complete the ritual.


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Beaufort town hosted the event this year. This is the 3rd year I come to launching of Kaamatan. And I never miss the chance to see the Unduk Ngadau (Harvest Queen) beauty pageant. There are a few things unique about this beauty pageant:

1. Traditional Costumes
It is a cultural beauty pageant to choose a figure to remember Huminodun. May is really the best time to see pretty ladies dress in finest traditional costumes. Since Kaamatan is celebrated by KadazanDusun and Murut people, you will see the contestants wear KadazanDusun or Murut costumes. Below are the 3 most common costumes worn in the competition:


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Sometime you see them carry a towel. Not towel lah, just kidding, I forgot the name of that item. You would find each district has its own mix of costumes being displayed, usually represent the ethnic groups in that area. For example, some contestants from Kudat district would dress in Rungus costume. This is the first time I see Bisaya costume in Unduk Ngadau competition.


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2. Mushroom Hair
No offense ok. I am not making fun of it. Even my Kadus friends also think it is very old-fashioned and they wonder why the Mushroom Hair should be the “official” hair style for all Unduk Ngadau. Why ah? Anyone knows? I am curious to find out.


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3. Bare Feet
This is also a “feature” b’coz it is probably the only beauty pageant that doesn’t need shoes. Also no butt-shaking catwalk, show off poses and mouth pouting to purposely act sexy. Instead, the contestants will walk very slowly and pose gracefully. I like it coz it makes my photo-taking a lot more easier.


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Let’s us pray for a bountiful harvest for the world. I got the photos of all the beauties. Please check them out. I lost the name list of the contestants so I couldn’t print their names. I will add the names later. Personally I like contestant no. 11.


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Related Posts
Kaamatan 2007, Ranau
Kaamatan 2006, Kota Marudu

Photos taken in Beaufort, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Weird Fishes of Beaufort

Beaufort is a town at south of Kota Kinabalu city. It takes nearly 2 hours to get there by car. Due to the good road condition, you don’t feel that it is really far.

In Beaufort, you will see both modern cement building and old-fashion wooden shophouses exist side by side, forming a very interesting contrast. I believe most of the wooden shophouses were built over 50 years ago. They remind me of my childhood in Tamparuli. If you use the toilet in this house, you will be surprised to see only a big hole on the floor, no toilet bowl. Well, I don’t really mind coz I love to pee on the floor.

The wooden shophouses were vulnerable to fire. Once it is destroyed by fire, people will rebuild the shops with steel and cement. So these historical structures are slowly disappearing due to modernisation. In the past, coz of its train station that could reach interior area and important towns along the west coast, during World War II, Beaufort was once a very important town and the strategic battlefield (at the hill behind the town). After Allies captured Beaufort from the hand of Japanese, they were on the track to victory smoothly. Let me test you. Who liberated Sabah? Don’t know leh…It was Australian troop.

Later I find something interesting on the street. I saw a huge bone on a trolley which sold traditioanl herbal oil. I thought it was a dinosaur bone. The owner said it belonged to a giant fish named “Raja Mimai”. He confirmed that was not a whale. I really have no idea what fish it is.

Then I walked into a photo processing shop “Foto Kami”, coz I am always curious about the photos displayed in such shops. I noticed a very old photo of an ugly fish. It looks like an eel with very fierce face. According to the shopkeeper, this fish was caught in Padas River in year 2001. It has died. I tried to ask for the contact of the photographer but it is not available. I posted the photos here. Hopefully anyone of you can tell me what it is. I remember someone said they saw “dragon” in Padas River. Could this be the baby dragon?

Update (27 Oct 2017): This fish is a Worm Goby fish from India or China. Thanks to the identification by Dr. Tan Heok Hui, an expert in freshwater fish species. According to him, it’s definitely not a native species.

Photos taken in Beaufort, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Kulintangan Festival, Beaufort

To promote tourism, it is obvious that our government wants each Sabah town has its own unique local pesta (festival). For example, Maize Festival for Kota Marudu, GATA for Sipitang, Kalimaran Festival for Tenom, Tamu Besar for Kota Belud, Gambus Festival for Papar, Sago Festival for Kuala Penyu, Lepa-Lepa for Semporna, Coconut Festival for Kudat, etc. Now Beaufort town has Pesta Kulintangan. Hmm… I predict soon Tambunan would be the next town has its own festival.

Last Sunday I was taking the free transport, provided by Sabah Tourism, to visit Beaufort. Same as other festivals, they have cultural performance. I was quite disappointed coz there were not many show went on. Most of the fun had happened on Saturday, where the VIPs came to launch the festival. Anyway, it is a good chance to experiment my new toy, Canon D400. The picture at the left above is the Beaufort pineapple tower. Visitors can guess how many pineapples in it, to win a prize.

The ground was so wet and muddy. I can plant paddy on it already. But this didn’t stop visitors coming in. There were some exhibition going on too.

The main event of this festival is Kulintangan competition. I estimated there were more than 10 teams participated. Kulintangan is a traditional musical instrument of Sabah. I have introduced it in my previous blog.

However, the most interesting part was a song performance by a small boy. He is probably the coolest kid singer that I’ve ever seen. His song and expression were packed with so much emotion and sorrow that made me thought we adult not the only one with issues. So funny…

Photos taken in Beaufort, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Proboscis Monkeys, Klias Wetlands

The long-nosed Proboscis Monkey (nickname: Dutch Man) is one of the superstars of Sabah wildlife. This funny-looking creature only can be found in the mangrove and lowland forest of Borneo. The two most famous sites to spot them are at Klias and Sukau.

Since I live in west coast, Klias, located 110 KM south of Kota Kinabalu city, is more accessible for me. To get there by car, it will take about 2 hours and the road condition is good. I overnight in Borneo Proboscis River Lodge, located next to the Klias River and 17 KM before Kuala Penyu town.


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All the houses in Borneo Proboscis River Lodge is made of wood and bamboo, like a native village. Basic facilities such as toilet, bathroom, cafeteria, water supply and electricity are available. I stayed there twice and each time got power blackout which lasted from 0.5 to 3 hours, so you better bring a torch light. Insect repellant is a must, as hundreds of hungry mosquitoes will attack you 24×7. One night when I was laying on the bed, a 6-inch centipede crawled on my arm, quite freak out.


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If you take their day trip package, you can join their sunset river cruise (about 5 PM) and watch fire flies at night (about 7:30 PM). It was a bad luck to have noisy kids on the same boat. Proboscis Monkey is very sensitive and shy. If the overexcited children see them, they will SHOUT, “WAAAAAH!!!! MOM! LOOK!!! MONKEY!!! MONKEY THERE!!!!!!” By the time I take out my camera, all the monkeys ran away already. I love kids. But when came to that moment I always felt the urge to kick them all into the river.


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That is a 100% chance that you will see more than one Proboscis Monkey on the trees along the river, during sunset river cruise. But in most cases, they would be 100 feet away from you or hiding behind the leaves. The human and engine noise will scare them, so they will leave shortly. A binocular is highly recommended, so you can see their long noses clearer. Usually they move in group, with one male leader sit on the tallest spot, while his wives and children busy nearby. If you want to use a 3x optical zoom camera to take their photos, you will be greatly disappointed, coz they are too far away. The best time to spot them is around 6 PM (their bedtime) and 7AM. Long-tailed Macaque Monkey is more common, and they are not quite afraid of us.


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Besides Proboscis Monkey, depending on your luck, you would see monitor lizard, kingfisher, eagle, snake, hornbill, etc. You would see crocodile by slim chance. If you look at the trees grow next the river, many of them got high prop breathing root so they can survive the flood. Unlike normal river, Klias River is a peat swamp river. There are tons of death leaves and organic substances under the river, so the water is dark coffee color and a bit smelly. Some even describe Peat Swamp as a carbon sink. And it flows slowly. I saw some catfish in the river. You can have fun fishing at the jetty if you want to.

The most unforgettable experience is to watch the “fire flies Christmas Tree” at night. FYI, the best time to see this is after the rain, and the night without moonlight. They will show you one or two trees where hundreds of fire flies gather, light up the tree like Christmas Tree. Coz it was too dark, my camera couldn’t take the picture. Anyway, I create the picture at the left for you to get an idea how it looks like.