Tag Archives: Tamparuli

Dalai seeds and necklaces

Dalai, the Pearls of the Borneo Jungle

Job’s Tears, also known as adlay or adlay millet, is locally referred to as Dalai or Jelai in Sabah. This plant looks like a cross between corn and grass, and its hard-shelled, woody seeds are nicknamed the “Pearls of the Borneo Jungle” (Mutiara Rimba) due to its glossy surface and teardrop shape, providing a glimmering touch to ornaments. It has been utilized in traditional medicine, food, and crafts for centuries and is often associated with good luck, prosperity, and spiritual healing.

Left: Dalai plant and the seeds. Right: This is not the Dalai we are talking about (Photo credit: Image by Bishnu Sarangi from Pixabay).

The Dalai plant is a tall, grain-bearing, perennial tropical plant scientifically known as Coix Lacryma-Jobi. The wild variety, Coix lacryma-jobi var. lacryma-jobi, has hard-shelled pseudocarps. The Dalai seeds naturally come with pre-existing holes, eliminating the need for artificial puncturing. The beads are strung together to to create various crafts, including rosaries (prayer beads), jewelry, bead curtains, and fashion accessories.

Job’s tears have historically been used as beads to make necklaces and other traditional accessories.

Artisans have been using Dalai beads in jewelry since 3000 B.C. Dalai has a long history as part of indigenous fashion in Sabah. I’ve observed Dalai seeds being used in the traditional costumes of the Dusun Kiulu, Dusun Liwan, Dusun Tindal, Dusun Tagahas, Dusun Malapih, and Tombonuo, the native tribes from the western and northern parts of Sabah. Dalai is primarily worn as accessories, such as necklaces, bracelets and belts. According to Wikipedia, other Borneo tribes such as Dayak, Kelabit and Kayan also use Job’s tears in their costumes.

Sinulamba dress of Dusun Kiulu decorated by Dalai seeds

The Dusun from Kiulu use Dalai extensively in the embroidery and decoration of their Sinulamba dress, one of the most unique garments and heritages in Sabah. The Sunduk, a hood covering the head or hair, represents the dignity of a woman, while the Kurilib, cross shoulder sashes, symbolize a loving woman.

Dusun from Kiulu and Tamparuli
Left: Dalai seeds will turn grey or brown colour when they are ripe. Right: Dusun Malapih from Papar

The variations in shades of grey and beige give Dalai seeds a natural appearance. Over time, Dalai seeds become shinier when in contact with the skin of their owners. For instance, rosaries made with Dalai beads may transition from a light grey to a shiny, warm chestnut brown color after being held many times during prayers. Saint Teresa of Calcutta was known to pray with Dalai rosaries.

Dalai necklaces, bracelets and earrings of Dusun Tindal

While Job’s Tears grains can be consumed as a cereal, such usage is not widespread in Sabah. The cultivated varieties, known for their soft shells, are more preferred for food. Job’s Tears is also commonly sold as Chinese pearl barley. Additionally, some Kadazandusun communities in Sabah make a decoction from Dalai leaves as a traditional herbal remedy for treating coughs or fevers.

Dalai seeds can mix with other beads and materials to make beautiful crafts.

Dalai is a fast-growing and easy-to-cultivate plant that demands minimal water and fertilizer. It can reach a height of about six feet and thrive in various soil types and climates. Germination typically occurs as early as seven days after sowing, with flowering taking approximately five months.

From left to right: Tombonuo Bobolian, Tombonuo girls, Dusun Kiulu and Dusun Tagahas (from Kota Marudu)

Job’s Tears derives its name from the story of the prophet Job, as mentioned in the Bible and the Quran. Job, a devout follower of God/Allah, faced a challenge to his faith when Satan caused him to lose his wealth, children, and health. Despite enduring a life of misery, Job did not complain. Throughout his ordeal, he remained steadfast in his belief and continued to love God as always. In the end, God rewarded Job with more than he had before. According to legend, when the tears of Job touched the soil, tall grasses sprouted, bearing oval seeds resembling his tears. This is how the name ‘Job’s Tears’ came about.

Creative designs of Dalai seeds. The dalai suit at the right is created by Madam Jusnah Jinos from Kg Bitoon (Ranau).

Dalai seeds come in over 10 variations of colors, shapes, and sizes, such as Tuntul, Watu, Oitom, providing artisans with ample creative possibilities in design. For more information on buying, planting, or learning about Dalai, you can contact the following groups via their Facebook pages:

Dalai seeds come with different variations

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Jambatan Tamparuli, the most famous bridge of Sabah

My first experience of crossing the Tamparuli hanging bridge was scary. I was frightened by the raging yellow river under my feet and cried loudly. My parents tried to coax me to move on but failed. Then my father asked me to close my eyes, and he carried me to other end of the bridge. I was about 6 or 7 years old that time. :-p

Left: signage to Tamparuli Bridge. Right: Kadazandusun girls crossing a hanging bridge carefully

The 200-Metre-long Tamparuli Suspension Bridge is made famous by the Kadazandusun (biggest indigenous tribe of Sabah) folk song “Jambatan Tamparuli” (jambatan means bridge) written by Justin Lusah in 1977. It’s also known as the Lover’s Bridge because of a heartbroken love story.

Walking on the Tamparuli Bridge. At the right is the busy Tamu market and Bukit Perahu (Ruhiang Hill). You also can see the tip of Mount Kinabalu behind the hill.

The romantic Jambatan Tamparuli song is in Kadazandusun language. Thanks to Ben Godomon! Below is his translation of the lyrics or you can listen to the Kadazandusun and Chinese versions of Jambatan Tamparuli performed by Cozzi Chong (雁卿), a popular Sino-Kadazan singer from Sabah:


I’m making a “Pak Pak” sound
As I walk along the bridge
The bridge of Tamparuli
while wearing high-heeled shoes

[Note: a proper name for high-heeled shoes for men is probably “Cuban Heels”]

As I walk along the bridge
The Bridge of Tamparuli
I’m making a “Pak Pak” sound
while wearing high-heeled shoes

But damn my shoes
they fell off the bridge
only socks are left
which I brought home

[Note: “silaka” is “celaka” in Malay : “damn” is the closest equivalent to English that I can think of]

On Wednesday
It’s the Tamu in Tamparuli
I go around the shops
Looking for high-heeled shoes

[Note: “Tamu” of course means “weekly open market” as is practised in Sabah]


Whenever listening to this song, I would visualize a lady walking carefully on the wobbly hanging bridge without her shoes. The holes between the planks can trap high heels so ladies please beware. However, this is not the same hanging bridge that inspired Justin Lusah to write the song. The “original” hanging bridge was washed away by flood in 1999.

Music performance by Persatuan Seni Budaya Tuaran (Tuaran Cultural and Art Association). You would find them play Jambatan Tamparuli at the Tamparuli Bridge.

You could have a nice view of surrounding of Tamparuli town on Tamparuli Suspension Bridge. The highest point is Ruhiang Hill (Bukit Perahu), a spot for hiking and paragliding during weekends. Mt. Kinabalu, the highest mountain of Malaysia, would show her face in good weather. On every Wednesday, there is a tamu (weekly open market, as described by the song) at Tamparuli town too.

Tamparuli Bridge with Linangkit and Lelawangan motif, the unique textile patterns of Lotud and Bajau respectively.

In 2021, Tamparuli Bridge received a facelift under the Linangkit Mural and Lelewangan Jambatan Gantung Tamparuli project. The artwork is completed by Tujuh Tompinai or 7T (means seven friends or teachers in Dusun language). The support posts and walls of the bridge are decorated with Linangkit motif and giant mural.

Mural of Tamparuli Bridge depicts the stories, legend, cultures and attractions of Tamparuli, an artwork of Tujuh Tompinai or 7T team (led by Saidina Atiman).

The top part of mural (see picture above) shows a group of Tantagas, the high priest of Lotud tribe and their world view – the end of the river is the edge of our world. The bottom mural displays the people (Lotud, Bajau, Chinese) and attractions (Bukit Perahu, Rumah Terbalik (Upside Down House), Murug Turug Waterfall, JonGrapevines & Figs Garden) of Tamparuli. Right mural represents the legend of Solungkoi. Left mural is to commemorate two brave British soldiers.

British Monument at Tamparuli Bridge. The inscription on the plaque says: This plaque is erected in Memory of: Private J.W.N. Hall RAMC and Driver D.C. Cooper RASC who lost their lives on 18th May 1960 in trying to save the life of a woman of Kampong Sayap, Kota Belud.
(RAMC = Royal Army Medical Corps, RASC = Royal Army Service Corps)

In 1960, two British soldiers lost their lives when they tried to save the life of a woman from Kota Belud. Their Land Rover was swept by strong currents while crossing the old Tamparuli Bridge and three of them drowned. You can find the plaque about the incident behind the fruit & vegetables market near the bridge.

Tourists looking at the fishes under the Tamparuli Bridge

Unlike the traditional hanging bridge, the new bridge is supported by concrete pillars and steel cables, so rock solid that you can bring a full cup of coffee walking nearly 200 Meters to another end without spilling a drop. Not only that, there is mesh wire covering the lower part of the boardwalk, so it’s impossible to drop your shoe like the lady in the song, unless you purposely throw it into the river.

Left: story of Solungkoi. Middle: drawing about the song Jambatan Tamparuli. Right: playing the music on the bridge

Nonetheless, the construction of old Tamparuli bridge posed a big challenge to British engineers in 1930s because it’s always destroyed by flood. Bobolian (local high priest) said that Tambuakar, the river spirit, was angry with the building of new bridge. To appease the spirit, a human sacrifice was demanded.

Old and new Tamparuli Bridges

Therefore, a fair maiden named Solungkoi was put into a jar and buried alive under the first pole of the bridge. After the offering, the bridge lasts until today, though it’s flooded by the rising river occasionally. Legend says the British engineer was in love with Solungkoi, making their love story sounds more tragic.

Old post-war shoplots of Tamparuli town

After you cross the bridge, you may take a walk in Tamparuli to get nostalgia with those old wooden shoplots of post-war era in town. For tourists who head to Kinabalu Park or Kiulu white water rafting, this is a nice mid-point to stop for a tea break and try the delicious Tamparuli fried noodle.

Another hanging bridge not far away from Tamparuli town

Photos taken in Tamparuli, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Ruhiang Hill (Bukit Perahu) and Ship Rocks

Does Noah’s ark really exist? I don’t know, but I was told that near Tamparuli town, there are rocks that resemble a vessel stranded on a hill named Bukit Perahu (also known as Ruhiang Hill). I guess that’s how Bukit Perahu got its name, as Perahu means Boat and Bukit means Hill in Malay language.

Bukit Perahu (or Ruhiang Hill) is next to Tamparuli town (left)

Many also say the top of Bukit Perahu has one of the most spectacular views of Mt. Kinabalu (the highest mountain of Malaysia).

Majestic Mount Kinabalu and Bukit Perahu (lower left)

One day I finally managed to get up early in the morning, headed to Tamparuli, which was 30 KM away from Kota Kinabalu City, then climbed up to the peak of Bukit Perahu.

The beautiful sea of cloud will disperse after the sun comes up, so you better reach the peak as early as possible.
Hikers relax and enjoy the morning view on Bukit Perahu

What they said was true. The scenery is so exceptional that I climbed it again the following week with my drone to photograph some aerial shots.

The friends of this family want to climb Bukit Perahu after they see this awesome shot

During good weather in early morning, you would see Mt. Kinabalu like floating on sea of cloud. Someone come very early to catch the sunrise around 6am for the best view. If you go late, say after 8:30am, the sea of cloud would disperse and envelope Mt. Kinabalu.

This family photo tells you that the climb is not overly challenging.

Bukit Perahu is only 300 Metres high. The hiking distance to the top is about 800 Metres and normally takes about 35 minutes, depend on your fitness. Some sections of the trail is a little steep. Overall the climb isn’t challenging.

The total distance to the peak is about 800 Meters

The Climb

The starting point of the climb is near to the roadside in Tamparuli (later I tell you how to get there). It’s a public area and you aren’t required to pay any entrance fee. The trail is well-marked and there are many hikers around in the morning, so you won’t lose your way.

Bukit Perahu is also one of the best paragliding sites.

Looking from far away, Bukit Perahu is a cone shaped hill with gentle slope, but the route is a bit steeper than we think. The 800-Metre trail is fully paved by cement from the start to the end (peak), so no more slippery soil trail after rain.

The trail to the peak of Bukit Perahu is now fully (100%!) paved by cement now. The photo at the left was taken in year 2017.

Note: The photos that show nature trail here are the old photos, the peak can be reached by stairway now. Do expect some human traffic during weekends, as everyone uses the same trail for ascend and descend.

Roman Catholic uses the route to the peak as the Way of the Cross (or Stations of the Cross). You will see 14 crosses along the way, with photo and description about the suffering of Jesus Christ carrying a cross to his crucifixion.

The local Catholics make this trail the Station of the Cross (or Way of Sorrows). Along the trail you will see a total of 14 cross signage with picture and text depicting Jesus Christ on the day of his crucifixion.

Most of the time you walk under the shade.

Most of the time the dense trees shaded me from sunlight, and the cool morning breeze stopped me from overheat, so it’s quite a pleasant walk.

Very green surrounding around the peak

The stairway prevents climbers and hikers from walking on the slippery trail and boulders. However, someone say that the new cemented path is losing a bit of touch with nature.

The stairway makes the climb less challenging but a bit more tiring.

After moving higher up, I could see Tamparuli town and surrounding hills with lush forest, the more I ascended, the nicer the view.

Gazebo in the midway

I took a short break in a gazebo next to cross No. 10. I was halfway there.

Last 200 Meters to the peak
When you see the 14th cross and the big cross, you are only 200 Meters away from the peak

After the last cross, I reached an open area with soil trail pounded solid by thousands of footsteps of hikers.

Almost reaching the hilltop
The view on top of Bukit Perahu

On the hilltop were some relaxing hikers enjoyed the panoramic view of Tamparuli town, rolling green hills and Mt. Kinabalu.

Hikers enjoying the scenic view
The hawkers sell stuffs from early morning to 9 or 10am on the peak

Hungry? Thirsty? A few hawkers were selling drink, snacks and fruit (the prices are higher, consider the labour work to carry these things up to the hill, e.g. a tin of 100Plus sold for RM3.00).

You can buy some drink, snack, chips and fruit on the hill
You can have a bird eye view of Tamparuli from the top of the hill
The only shade you can find on hilltop.

The Boat Rocks

I tried to locate the two boat rocks that earn Bukit Perahu the name. Please note the trails to the rocks may not be well-maintained and covered by dense grass.

Looking for the boat rock

The smaller one is nearer and the entrance is at the left hand side (when you face Mt. Kinabalu).

On the way to the smaller boat rock

It’s quite an easy walk on a small trail and I saw the boat rock within 10 minutes. It really looks like the front of ship (bow).

This rock looks like a sinking ship

The bigger one is another story. The entrance is at the right. When I asked the locals for direction, they looked concern, as if it’s a bad idea. They warned me that the trail is not in good condition.

Azlan clearing the bush that blocks the trail

I just proceeded anyway and walked into the wood, just after 15 Metres a dense bush was in my way, I was stuck. Luckily, Azlan, a local from Tamparuli, came to “rescue” by using his machete to clear the trail.

On the way to the biggest boat rock

I followed Azlan to pass through the dense wood and narrow steep trail. Azlan climbs this hill regularly so he knows the place really well. In fact, he is the one who opens the trail to the big boat rock. He said he had cleared the trail in Jan but the undergrowth flourished again.

Azlan is the one who opens the trail to the huge boat rock.

After 23 minutes of painfully slow move on steep and slippery trail, Azlan stopped at a big rock and said “It’s here.” I didn’t see any boat rock. He added, “You are on top of the boat rock. You need to descend to the side to have a better look.”

Big boat rock

He is right. At one side, the boat rock looks like the hull of a cargo ship. I don’t really recommend you visit this rock due to safety. If you must go, bring insect repellant.

This boat rock is really huge. Did you see the “snake head rock”?

Then we descend to another side. From this angle, the rock really looks like a ship that has 3 layers of decks. Two ladies, Zoom and Farah were following us, I included them in the photos so you can see the scale.

Closer look of the boat rock

Azlan is a civil servant working in Tuaran. Though he is 52 years old, he remains very fit and climb Bukit Perahu up and down 5 times to train for climbathon (mountain race).

How to get there

When you reach Tamparuli town, which is about 30 minutes by car from Kota Kinabalu City, turn to Jalan Tamparuli Togop Road (see Street View map) beside the police station.

The starting point of the hike is next to the road. Note the signage that reads Puncak St. Veronica

Just follow the road for about 300 Metres, the starting point will be at at your left (see Street View map, GPS Coordinate: 6.131424, 116.273830). If you come in the morning during weekends, you would see many cars parked at the roadside.

At the starting point, there is a sign that reads “Laluan Jalan Salip ke Puncak St. Veronica” (translated as: Way of the Cross to St. Veronica Peak). There is a house there so be quiet. There is no toilet at Bukit Perahu so you better relieve yourself somewhere else before the climb.

Photos taken in Tamparuli, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

3D Wonders Museum of Sabah

Being the first Upside Down House in South-East Asia, Rumah Terbalik added another fun house just next to it. In a nutshell, 3D Wonders Museum is a 4,000 sq. feet gallery that displays 28 painting mostly about Sabah. Visitors can “interact” with the objects in the drawing, as if they become part of the painting (or illusion).


After seeing so many amusing photos of 3D Wonders Museum on social media, I decided to visit this most talked about site in Tamparuli district. This museum can only fit 25 people at a time, so it was a long queue during weekend. Luckily the wait took less than 10 minutes. There is no time limit and you are very encouraged to take photos in the museum (photo taking is free).

3D Painting

Upon entry, we started playing with something small and simple as a “warm-up”. Just position your hands on the right spot of the painting and you are ready for a funny shot.


Pic: 3D painting of floating City Mosque, the most beautiful mosque of Sabah.


Pic: big fish by Sea Bajau fisherman from Semporna


Though there are many attractions in Sabah, 3D Wonders Museum is one of the few family-oriented destinations that excites both adults and children.


Pic: majority of the 3D art collection here are inspired by various unique culture, nature and destinations of Sabah. You can read the signage to learn more about the subject of each painting. The photos of signage also shows you some good ideas on how to pose with the painting for the most entertaining effect. Of course, you can try other creative poses.


Pic: Photography pointer that tells you where is the best spot and angle to shoot the picture.

Don’t worry if you travel alone. The friendly staffs are always around to guide you and to help you to take picture of you in action, so you may leave your selfie stick at home.


I chit chat with some of the tourists and find that many of them are friends and family from Brunei, Peninsular Malaysia, etc.

Flora & Fauna and Conservation

Then I moved on to the nature theme that have big painting features the eco-treasures of Sabah. The way they present the theme is probably more exciting than the real things. For example, there has been a myth that our giant pitcher plant and rafflesia flower of Borneo are man-eaters, so the museum turns that fantasy into something touchable.


Pic: children being eaten by sitting on Nepenthes Rajah, the largest pitcher plant in the world.


Pic: Most murals span across wall and floor to give them more depth and realistic look, like the rafflesia flower painting above.


Pic: hanging out with Orangutan, the wild man of Borneo rainforest.


Pic: this is how baby turtles feel when they are released.


Pic: Polar bears on melting ice cap, a warning for global warming.

Sabah Ethnic Theme

Sabah is famous for its vibrant and colorful culture. You can pretend you are in a cultural journey. Don’t be squeamish while taking photos. Be playful and imaginative, the more you interact with the painting and blend into scene, the better the photos. Your photo would look pretty lame if you just stand straight and act normally.


Pic: Magunatip bamboo dance, great pose and expression bro!


Pic: horse riding with Bajau, the Cowboys of the East.


Pic: photo booth of Murut headhunter. I meant to be funny but it looked so real that it was a bit creepy instead.


Pic: Wooden trampoline in traditional longhouse of Murut people

Travel Theme

Let the paintings take you to popular places in Kota Kinabalu, Kota Belud, Kiulu, Semporna, Kinabalu Park, Ranau and Sandakan. A photography tip for taking better 3D photo – reduce the power of camera flash, because the reflection and shadow cast by strong light would make the painting looks flat and fake. This can be difficult if you are not using good camera.


Pic: This painting is the favorite of everyone because it looks “dangerous”.


Pic: Due to earthquake, climbing to Mt. Kinabalu is halt until further notice, but you still can take a photo of the summit here.


Pic: May be you should try harder for the challenge, mom.


Pic: Zip Borneo, the longest flying fox zipline in Borneo.


Pic: Canoeing in Kiulu River


Pic: “Aaaargh… tell mom I won’t be back for dinner!”

Illusions

The illusion section gets the most laughters. It’s just awesome.


Pic: This silat fighting photo puzzled me the most. I was wondering why all my friends could do flying kick so easily.


…until I saw how it’s done lol. It’s like breaking the magician’s code. This can spoil the fun so I only reveal one secret here.


Pic: The Shrinking Room (or Ames Room). Sometimes you just can’t trust your eyes.


Pic: Can you figure out? Aren’t you entertained?


Pic: Night view of Kota Kinabalu city. The UV lights will make your cloth glows in the dark.

Entrance Fee & Contact

You can save a few bucks if you visit both 3D Wonders Museum and Upside Down House (2-in-1 package).

Ticket Fee* Malaysian Adult Foreign Adult Child (4-12 years)**
3D Wonders Museum RM24.40 RM35 (≈USD$7) RM15.90 (≈USD$4.60)
Upside Down House
(Rumah Terbalik)
RM10.60 RM19.10 (≈USD$5.50) RM5.30 (≈USD$1.50)
2-in-1 Package
(Upside Down House + 3D Wonders)
RM31.80 RM47.70 (≈USD$14) RM19.10 (≈USD$5.50)

* Fee inclusive of 6% GST tax (price as of June 2015)
** Free entrance for infant 3 years and below


Pic: 3D Wonders Museum is next to Upside Down House (Rumah Terbalik)

Shuttle Services

You can take their shuttle depart from shopping malls (see below) to this place for RM50 (≈US$12.50) per person. Please call +60 18-8614688 / +60 88-230534 in advance to book a seat (before 4:00pm).

From Center Point From Wisma Merdeka Return
8:30am 8:45am 11:30am
10:30am 10:45am 1:30pm
2:00pm 2:15pm 5:00pm
3:00pm 3:15pm 6:00pm

Address (see Location Map): Kampung Telibong, Batu 21, Jalan Telibong Tamparuli, 89208 Tuaran, Sabah, Malaysia.
Opening Hours: 7am – 7pm daily
Phones: +60 88-260263, +60 19-8614688
Email: sales@trekkerslodge.com
Website: www.upsidedownhouse.com.my
Facebook: Rumah Terbalik – The Upside Down House in Borneo!

Photos taken in Tamparuli, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Chanteek Borneo Gallery, the Lilliput of Sabah

There are about 42 indigenous groups in Sabah, and some have over 10 sub-ethnics so that’s an estimate of over 200 tribes, and each has their distinct costumes. No wonder Sabah is known as a melting pot of different cultures. However, until today nobody can tell you exactly how many native tribes Sabah has.


Many organizations say they are busy documenting the culture, but only Anne Antah is able to present us something in her Chanteek Borneo Gallery near Tamparuli town. Currently, Chanteek Borneo Gallery exhibits about 300 dolls of 48 ethnic costumes and its collection is still growing. She started making these dolls in 2011 as a hobby, then the number of dolls is large enough for her to open this gallery in Aug 2014. Now it becomes a good spot to see different ethnic costumes in one place.


Pic: the number of Sabah tribes is able to fill up a hall if each group sends a representative.

Chanteek means “Beautiful” in Malay language (Cantik in Sabah slang), indeed the beautiful cultures of Sabah have been a favorite subject of photographers. These 1-foot dolls are “serious toy” to show our heritage. Visitors will be impressed by the “Lilliput” of Sabah tribes there. The gallery relies on limited information for making each doll. It’s a challenge to make authentic dress. Her research pays off and University of Zurich from Switzerland orders a whole set of dolls from her.


Pic: high priest dolls of Kadazan Dusun

Costume is our first identity to tell others who we are. Some traditional costumes also indicate whether a person is married, and in one case, how many wives a man has. It also shows the social status of a native, like the dresses of Kadazandusun high priest in photo above.


Besides ethnic costumes, the gallery also exhibits miniature handicraft, music instruments and traditional houses. They also display some life size items so visitors can look at the real things too.


Some locals come to this gallery to look for their doll and root. Most Sabahans can’t even name 10 Sabah tribes, so it’s great to learn something new there. The “Big 3” indigenous groups of Sabah are Kadazan, Bajau and Murut, and of course you can find their dolls in the gallery.


Pic: dolls of Kadazan couple
Kadazan is the largest indigenous group of Sabah. You may have seen them perform Sumazau dance in tourism advertisement of Malaysia.


Pic: Land Bajau couple
Bajau people are famous for their vibrant and colorful culture. Everything they wear and make are in bright colors. The Land Bajau in West Coast is known as Cowboys of the East due to their excellent horse riding skill. And Sea Bajau in East Coast is called Sea Gypsy, who spend most of their lives on the boat (now many have moved to land).


Pic: dolls of Murut couple
Murut means the People of the Hill. They are fearsome headhunter in the past.


Pic: Dusun Tindal doll
Making costume clothing for the doll is a labor-intensive job which requires skilled hands, good eyes and a great deal of patience. Some ethnic costumes are plain and easier to work with. The most difficult one is traditional costume of Dusun Tindal, because of its complex embroidery, making it the most expensive doll too.


Pic: it’s a painstaking task to replicate the costumes in miniature scale.


The gallery is air-conditioned and well-lit. It’s a comfortable place to browse. I had never seen so many dolls in a place.


Pic: note the replica of traditional houses

The dolls are labeled with tribe name. The information is written in both English and Malay languages. Their staffs are also more than happy to tell you more about each costume. There are some nice local painting in the gallery but they are not for sale.


Normally visitors spend about 30 to 60 minutes in this gallery. If you are keen to listen to interesting story and legend of different tribes, you can spend more time there.

Just for fun. You may try to guess the ethnic of 6 toys below. You can find the answers near the end of this article. Don’t cheat.


Pic: the dresses of ancestors of Sabah natives, look elegant too.


Pic: they also use dolls to show the scene of Gayo Nakan legend. Gayo Nakan is a giant who has huge appetite, with a tragic fate.


Pic: the wedding corner. Same as other cultures, our people wear the best dresses for wedding.


In Sabah, marriage between different races is very common, especially between Kadazan and Chinese. Their offspring is called Sino, with an estimated population of 50,000 today. Most believe the actual number of Sino is far more than this official number.

Usually our natives don’t wear their costumes every day, you only see them in “full gear” during special occasions such as festivals, wedding and celebrations. To see real people in traditional costumes, you may visit annual cultural festivals such as Kaamatan (Harvest Festival) of Kadazandusun, Regatta Lepa of Sea Bajau, Tamu Besar of Bajau and Kalimaran of Murut people. Yes, foreigners are very welcome to join these parties. Sabah people are very friendly no matter what races they are. You may check out the event calendar of Sabah Tourism for the dates of these festivals.

Interactive Corner

If you have children, you can bring them to the interactive corner next door to play with dolls. You know, kids aren’t happy just by looking.


Pic: Interactive Corner of the gallery


Pic: they also can use colored cardboard to make Simpangan, the motif of Bajau.


Pic: there was no children around to be my model, so I asked Adam, the blogger of adamlai.com to demo playing dolls. He kept saying, “Isn’t it creepy? It’s so wrong!” LOL


Pic: King Kong and poor little Ann Darrow who screams all the time.

Badeeh Souvenir Shop

There is a souvenir shop in gallery where you can buy items such as handicraft, plush toys, dolls, bookmarks, keychains, beadwork (necklace, bracelet) and T-shirts.

You can buy the dolls if you like them.


Pic: this doll display with a dozen native beauties is fabulous, it costs RM2,388 (≈US$668).



There are other dolls in couple or individual set with prices range from RM39.90 (≈US$11.20) to RM260 (≈US$73). The best selling one is Kadazan doll. You can’t really value a heritage with money. You are buying a piece of art, not a toy that looks like bimbo.


Pic: cute phone straps

Shops & Cafe

After the visit, you also can drop by the shops and cafe outside the gallery. FYI, the toilet is behind the gallery.


Pic: D’Lakang Cafe, where you can order fried rice, noodle, drink, etc. You can have a good look of Mt. Kinabalu from the platform above.


Pic: traditional music instruments of Sabah. You may try playing the gong, kulintangan and other bamboo music instruments. It’s free.


Pic: T-shirt for sale


Pic: you can try wearing Dusun Lotud costume at the Libunan photo booth and get your photo taken, RM5 (≈US$1.40) only.

More Info & Contact

The ticket fee to the gallery is RM10 and RM5 for Malaysian adult and child, RM15 (≈US$4.20) and RM10 (≈US$2.80) for foreigner adult and kid, respectively.

Operation Hours:

Tue – Sat: 9am – 6pm
Sun: 10am – 4:30pm
Public Holiday: 9am – 5pm
Mon: Closed

Phone: +60 88-792018
Email: chanteek.borneo@gmail.com
Website: www.chanteekborneo.com
Facebook: Chanteek.Borneo
Address: Kg Lakang, Jalan Telibong – Tamparuli, 89200 Tuaran, Sabah, Malaysia (see Location Map)

How to get there

Chanteek Borneo Gallery is very accessible and only 30 KM from Kota Kinabalu City (KK). If you depart from KK and head to Tamparuli town, you will see it at the road side after 30 minutes of driving, about 7 KM before Tamparuli town. There are at least 3 road sign posts to guide you there. You may look at its Location Map.


Pic: U-Turn sign post to Chanteek Borneo Gallery before the Telibong Water Treatment Plant


Pic: the entrance to the gallery. It’s just opposite to the old suspension bridge of Tamparuli.


Pic: Chanteek Borneo Gallery

Answers for the Quiz

From left to right, top to bottom: Dusun Gana, Dusun Lotud, Murut Nabai, Cocos, Orang Sungai Kamansi, Dusun Subpan
How many did you get it correct? Please don’t feel bad if you can’t answer. I only got four right though I have been photographing traditional costumes for some years.

Nearby Attractions

Besides Chanteek Borneo Gallery, you also can explore, eat and play the following things near Tamparuli and Tuaran towns:-

Photos taken in Tamparuli, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Tamparuli Mee (Tamparuli Fried Noodle)

Tuaran Mee (Tuaran Fried Noodle, 斗亚兰面 in Chinese) is the most famous handmade noodle of Sabah and even introduced by celebrity on TV food programme a few times. Personally, I think its strongest “rival”, Tamparuli Mee (Tamparuli Fried Noodle, 担波罗利炒面 in Chinese) tastes better.

1. Keng Swee Hing coffee shop (瓊瑞興茶餐室)


One of the places you can try Tamparuli Mee is “Kedai Makan Dan Kopi Keng Swee Hing” (or Keng Swee Hing in short) in Tamparuli town.

Above: Keng Swee Hing coffee shop (瓊瑞興茶餐室)

The shop address is No. 3, Jalan Bontoi, 89257 Tamparuli, Sabah, Malaysia. The shop opens from 6am to 5pm daily. It has off day every month, so you better phone the owner Mr. Foo (符先生) at +60 88-782417 to confirm before going.


Above: Tamparuli Mee. You can Click Here for larger close-up photo

Tamparuli Fried Noodle is freshly handmade so the texture is more “springy” and it has stronger egg aroma than Tuaran Mee. Usually it is served with egg roll slices (春卷), minced roasted pork (叉烧) and scrambled eggs. It costs RM5 (≈USD1.50) per plate, RM6 (≈USD1.80) if you prefer seafood flavor.


Judging from the expression of the hungry ghosts in front of me, you can bet the noodle tastes good.


Another item we ordered at Keng Swee Hing was pig liver soup with salty vege (猪肝咸菜汤). I like pork liver and I have no problem to finish one big bowl myself. This soup is a must-try to me.

Their steaming hot pumpkin steam bun (金瓜包 in Chinese) is also nice as breakfast or high tea, due to its sweet pumpkin smell. It has no filling so you can eat it with curry sauce or even apply jam to it like normal bread. Even kids who don’t like bread love it. Each bun costs RM1.20 (≈USD0.40).


The shop also proudly displays a news clip with a review of its food. You may Click Here to read the content if you understand Chinese.


Above: the menu of Keng Swee Hing. Click Here for bigger photo
You can order other food items. Other recommended dishes are fried pork ribs (排骨) and fried vegetables.

2. Restoran Wun Chiap (云集酒家)

Just one block away there is another restaurant named Restoran Wun Chiap (云集酒家), which is also very famous for its Tamparuli Mee. It is located next to the a Chinese school, SJK (C) Chung Hwa Tamparuli (担波罗里中华国民型华文学校) and open from 9:30am to 5pm daily.

Sometimes they may close for food catering so you better call them before you visit. Their phone number is +60 88-782845 and the address is Restoran Wun Chiap, Lot No.9, Tamparuli, Sabah, Malaysia. Each plate of Tamparuli Fried Noodle is RM4 (≈USD1.20).


Above: Tamparuli Mee by Wun Chiap (Click photo above to enlarge it)

Some says the noodle tastes better if you put tomato sauce on it, because the sauce blends well with the egg aroma of the noodle and its scrambled egg.

Below is the location map of Keng Swee Hing and Wun Chiap Restaurants:


View My Sabah Map in a larger map

Other Popular Sabah noodles:
Tuaran Mee (Tuaran Noodle)
Beaufort Mee (Beuafort Fried Noodle)

Photos taken in Tamparuli, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Upside Down House (Rumah Terbalik)

This is probably the hottest new stuff people talking about in town, and first time ever people feel happy that their world turning upside-down. After seeing so many friends introduced this place in Facebook and blog, I decided to visit the Upside Down House in Tamparuli.


Which one is upside-down? The house or the man? LOL.


Something that you can’t do in real life are all possible now at upside down house.


To get there is easy, if you go from Kota Kinabalu, just a few Kilometer before Tamparuli town and before a Shell gas station, you will see the house at your left, as shown in photo above. Its address is Kampung Telibong, Batu 21, Jalan Telibong, Tamparuli. You may Click Here for the location map. Their website is www.upsidedownhouse.com.my.


Below is the ticket fees. You can save a few bucks if you visit both Upside Down House and newly-opened 3D Wonders Museum (2-in-1 package):

Ticket Fee* Malaysian Adult Foreign Adult Child (4-12 years)**
Upside Down House
(Rumah Terbalik)
RM10.60 RM19.10 (≈USD$5.50) RM5.30 (≈USD$1.50)
3D Wonders Museum RM24.40 RM35 (≈USD$7) RM15.90 (≈USD$4.60)
2-in-1 Package
(Upside Down House + 3D Wonders)
RM31.80 RM47.70 (≈USD$14) RM19.10 (≈USD$5.50)

* Fee inclusive of 6% GST tax (price as of June 2015)
** Free entrance for infant 3 years and below


Above: the ticketing counter. The visit will take 30 to 45 minutes.


The logo of Upside Down House (Rumah Terbalik).


The friendly staffs. There are quite a number of visitors even during weekday. We were waiting for our turn.


Here you go, the upside down house! It looks like a traditional Sabah village house from outside. Not only that, the inside is fully furnished. The interior area is about 1,500 square feet, with master bedroom, child room, living room + kitchen and a bathroom.


Finally it’s our turn to enter the house. We were asked to knock the door as if we visited a real house. A staff will guide you in the tour.


Sorry, no photo-taking is allowed after this point. It’s air-conditioned inside.

As expected, it’s an “insane” house, as everything, from small to big, are upside down. We were walking on the “ceiling”, with fans, lamp and even lizard (toy) next to our feet. And all the furnitures are above our head. I started to imagine that I was a ghost hovering near the ceiling LOL.


Group photo at the back door. Do you see the bicycle?


Another group photo. It’s fun to show this picture to others.

Let’s see what they have inside… 40-inch TV, VCR player, microwave, vacuum cleaner, computer & desk, chairs, sofa, beds, cabinet, washing machine, cabinet, closet, painting, etc. just like a normal house. They say the main challenge is to hang the 35-Kg sewing machine on top. They even have poker cards, toys and comic book scattered on the floor, like there are people living inside. The radio is on and luckily not the fan, haha.. I was told that a few visitors are not used to the upside down world and got a bit of motion sickness inside the house.


Hmm… can I sit in that car?


They have a gift shop next to the house.


They sell mainly environmental-friendly local products such as the organic soap and handicraft made of recycled wood.

You may watch the 1-min video of Upside Down House below:

Shuttle Services

You can take their shuttle depart from shopping malls (see below) to this place for RM50 (≈US$12.50) per person. Please call +60 18-8614688 / +60 88-230534 in advance to book a seat (before 4:00pm).

From Center Point From Wisma Merdeka Return
8:30am 8:45am 11:30am
10:30am 10:45am 1:30pm
2:00pm 2:15pm 5:00pm
3:00pm 3:15pm 6:00pm

Mango Garden Restaurant

If you visit Upside Down House, I highly recommend you to have lunch or dinner at Mango Garden Restaurant, which is right next to Upside Down House. This air-conditioned restaurant serves authentic traditional cuisines of Sabah and they even take our local food to fine dining level. It’s really a surprise for me to find such a decent restaurant in countryside.


Pic: the beautiful interior of Mango Garden Restaurant, decorated with cultural stuffs and photographs such as handicraft and musical instruments. You can see the Upside Down House from inside.

They have rich variety of exotic food. I tried the dishes below.


Pic: My appetizer, Hinava Sada, which is freshly selected fish fillet marinated in lime juice, shallots, ginger, sliced chili and grated Badu (wild mango seeds). This is a must try dish, very popular in Sabah and originated from the Kadazandusun tribes. You will love it if you like sour and spicy food. Price: RM11.50 (≈US$3.25)


Pic: Asam Pedas Ekor Lembu, sliced oxtail slowly cooked in delicious sour and spicy gravy. Commonly known as oxtail asam pedas by the locals, very tendon. Price: RM29.50 (≈US$8.35)


Pic: Dessert: Sweet Mango Sago & Ice Cream, soft jellied sago with palm sugar and coconut milk topped with fresh and sweet local mango. Price: RM8.50 (≈US$2.40)

After 10% service charge, the meal costs me RM54.45 (≈US$15.40). This is because I ordered the expensive items. Anyway, it’s worth every penny. They also sells common food such as fried rice and noodle, starts from RM8.90 (≈US$2.50) if you don’t want to spend too much.


Pic: Mango Garden Restaurant can accommodate about 40 people.

The following is more info of Mango Garden Restaurant:
Opening Hours: 10am – 10pm daily
Tel: +60 88-783911
E-mail: sales@trekkerslodge.com
Facebook: MangoGardenRestaurant

Photos taken in Tamparuli, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo