Tag Archives: homestay

Taralamas River Canyon

Taralamas River Canyon, the Magic of Water

Living in a stressful world, we need a place to wash away our worries. Scientific studies show that being near water gives us a powerful mental health boost. How about a water therapy at Taralamas River Canyon (also known as Tolungan Daralamas River Canyon), a 15-million-year-old canyon that is hidden deep inside the rainforest of Sabah? Its unique geological feature is a wow factor to visitors. Most people decide to visit Taralamas just by looking at its photos.

Taralamas River Canyon lit by the afternoon light

Taralamas River Canyon, which is formed earlier than Mount Kinabalu, is a work of water erosion. It’s a great canyon, though it’s not as big as Grand Canyon. Besides the interesting landscape, a trip to Taralamas allows you to enjoy various nature-based activities such as hiking, picnic and swimming that cover forest, river, waterfall and hill.

Standard Itinerary

Most visitors prefer a day trip at Taralamas River Canyon. The following is the standard itinerary (shortest trail). Please note you need to book the tour in advance. Walk-in tourists may not be accepted.

Walking on the village road and jungle trail in Tiang Lama Village
  • 5am: Depart from Kota Kinabalu City (KK)
  • 8am: Arrive Tiang Lama Village (in Ranau) and start hiking (3 KM)
  • 10am: Reach Taralamas River Canyon (Lunch and river canyon walk there)
  • 12pm: Going back to the Starting Point
  • 2pm: Return to KK
  • 6pm: Arrive KK

The downside of day trip is more than 7 hours of driving back and forth. You can consider spending a night in homestay of Tiang Lama (walking distance to the starting point) for a more relaxing experience.

Entering Taralamas River Canyon

Below is a useful walk-through with photos, or you can watch the video below:

Gather at Starting Point (at Tiang Lama Village)

The starting point of the hike is at the Community Hall near the end of Tiang Lama Village (or Kampung Tiang Lama) in Ranau district. Group of hikers congregate there between 7am and 9am. It’s better to start hiking in early morning, as it’s more likely to rain in the afternoon.

Starting point of the hike to Taralamas River Canyon

After you register and pay the operator, a village guide will be assigned to your group. Most guides are youngsters from the village. There is a small toilet near the hall, in case you want to relieve yourself before the 2-hour hike. A short briefing on Do & Don’t will be given before the hike begins.

At the hall are some stalls that sell food, (e.g. fried noodle, linopot packed rice, instant noodle, snacks, biscuit, pinjaram, hinompuka, traditional kuih), drink, fruits and vegetables. You can have your breakfast there and buy packed lunch from the villagers, as there is no restaurant at the canyon.

Start hiking to Taralamas River Canyon in the morning

The stalls are also around in the afternoon, so you can buy some fresh produce at a very reasonable or cheap price, before you head home. Depending on the season, you would find different fruits and vegetables such as durian, tuhau and rambutan.

Hiking to Taralamas River Canyon

Once everyone is prepared, we start hiking from the village. The morning at Tiang Lama Village is cooling and refreshing. Within minutes we come to the plantation in the mist.

Left: muddy trail, Middle: bamboo bridge, Right: trail near the local plantation

The temperature is about 25°C. You might need a jacket to keep warm in the beginning. Very soon you would feel warm after some walk among the dense shrubs and trees.

We choose the standard loop trail, which is 6 KM back and forth and the shortest hiking distance. If you want to visit the Sadoron Waterfall, it’ll be a total of 8 KM walk.

One way distance to the river canyon is about 3 Kilometres. The signage says follow your pace but don’t be slow.

Everyone start out dry and high in spirit. Just don’t expect to come out dry since you would face muddy trail, river canyon walk or rain later. Waterproof shoes such as Adidas Kampung would help a lot. Very likely you will need an extra pair of dry socks.

The trail is well-trodden. I’ve been to Taralamas twice and the muddy trail in the first 30 minutes is quite a drag, because the slippery trail on uneven ground can slow you down.

Interesting flora along the trail. Left: an ornamental plant (Alocasia cuprea), Middle: tall bamboo, Right: Begonia

After one KM, you will enter the secondary rainforest. If you are lucky, you would see flock of Rhinocerus hornbill flying over the canopy. There are some leeches but only a handful of them. Wearing anti-leech socks will keep them at bay. The deer fly is more annoying when they find you by the smell of your sweat. The presence of blood sucking bugs means the forest is rich with wildlife.

The view at the highest point of the hike. The last line of the signage says patient is a virtue.

Normally it takes about 1.5 hours to reach the river canyon 3 KM away. Overall the trail is not very challenging. Accident is rare. Only the one KM before the canyon is steep. The difficult sections have rope support. Ladies would need gloves to protect their skin while using the coarse ropes.

Anyway, you don’t need to rush. Just enjoy the view along the trail. I’ve seen Alocasia cuprea (ornmental plant), bamboo groves, Begonia, mushroom, fungus, big fern tree, and many unknown flora.

Reaching the River Canyon

After 3 KM, you will reach the river bank of Widu River. You are probably very excited, but please keep quiet. Making noise in the forest are taboos.

You can place your bag and belonging under the canvas shelter in case it rains. There is a small toilet nearby for you to change or doing your business.

Left: reaching the Taralamas River Canyon, Right: toilet next to the river

One of my favourite moment is to enjoy my linopot lunch by the river. During dry season, the river water is clear with emerald colour. I’m always tempted to collect the beautiful blue-grayish river rocks but this is forbidden (and would bring bad luck).

Some insects such as butterflies and bees attracted by our sweat. They land on our skin to harvest salt, which is a vital but rare mineral in the jungle. The bees won’t sting you unless provoked. But be careful and bring medicines (to treat anaphylactic shock) if you are allergic to bee stung.

Left: enjoy Linopot packed lunch next to the river, Right: crossing the river to enter the canyon

Butterflies are more timid and would target the fresh mud on our shoes. Entomologists will be pleased to find Borneo endemic species among them, for example, Bornean swallowtail (Graphium stratiotes) and Bornean sawtooth (Prioneris cornelia). I also see Bornean Straight Pierrot (Caleta manovus), Orange Gull (Cepora judith hespera), Grass Yellow, Green Dragontail, Mormon, and Common Cruiser at the river bank.

Left: shelter at the river side, Middle: butterflies attracted by smelly shoes, Right: Linopot packed rice

The gap of the river canyon is only 2 to 5 Metres width, and there are more than 30 visitors. Therefore, we take turn to go in, to avoid overcrowding. Usually the walk in river canyon takes about an hour.

Enter the River Canyon

Finally it’s my turn. We are required to put on a life vest and a helmet to protect us from drowning and falling rocks. The canyon is about 150 Metres long. However, in most cases, the guide would bring you up to 120 Metres. You can fully explore it only when the water is very shallow in dry days.

The beginning of the river canyon walk

I cross the river to enter the canyon at the other side. The temperature of the water is about 25°C degrees, it’s cold but probably not enough to cause hyperthermia, unless you stay for long hours. It’s bearable once my body gets used to it.

During drought season, you can walk across the river easily. It rained the night before, so the river reaches my chest level and the current is quite swift. I hold on the guiding rope to move to the entrance of the canyon, and fight another stream coming out from there.

Left: the river is deep during wet season, Right: the brightest section of Taralamas River Canyon

Though I struggle a bit with the cold and strong current, I feel no regret the moment I see the gorgeous rock walls in the canyon. Like most people say, it looks so unreal and doesn’t resemble any place in Sabah.

The rock walls in the canyon marked with layers horizontally, a characteristic of sedimentary rock. I feel like being sandwiched between two giant chocolate crepe cakes of 2 to 5 floors high. The walls are comprised of rock layers that are stacked and deposited since 60 millions years ago. After river flows on these rocks for million of years, it carves out the Taralamas River Canyon today. The wall surface is so smooth that I can see my reflection.

For a moment the river canyon looks like a romantic paradise

Part of the river is as deep as 9 feet. I float on the water and use the rope to move forward slowly. I look up and see the sky through the narrow opening, which is partially shielded by the translucent green leaves. Some big rocks in the canyon really look like petrified wood. I thought it was wood until my toes kick it.

Entrance to explore the deeper and darker canyon section

The first half of the river canyon is the best section for photo-taking because it’s relatively well-lighted and some rocks are coloured by green moss. About 40 Metres into the canyon is a wide open area with sandy bank where you can stand. I take a break there and photograph some pictures when the afternoon sun on top brightens up the canyon.

The narrow passage of Taralamas River Canyon

Then I continue to explore the canyon. The deeper side of the canyon is dark and narrow, almost like a cave tunnel, it’s a bit scary actually. Large volume of water squeezes through this narrow tunnel and pushes me with force.

I climb over a few mini waterfalls to go further inside, like a rat crawling against the running water in the pipe. Behind each waterfall is a chamber-like space with opening on top. The rain starts to flood the canyon, so our guide advises us to leave before the bad weather hit us. Exit the canyon is easy as we follow the current.

The ending section of Taralamas River Canyon. Actually you still can explore further up.

At last we hike back to the starting point and it is pouring rain on the way. None of us was dry. After some clean-up at the community hall, we return to KK. I’ve visited the canyon twice but more than happy to come back again.

Geology of Taralamas River Canyon

On social media, you may have seen tons of posts that praise the beauty of Taralamas River Canyon, but nobody tells you why it is so special. I did some homework by asking Professor Dr. Felix Tongkul, an expert in geology.

The unique rock structure of Taralamas River Canyon

According to Dr. Felix, technically Taralamas is a small river canyon. It was formed by stream erosion along a vertical fracture on the sedimentary rock sequence of the Trusmadi Formation. The sedimentary rock sequence comprising of dark shales and thin sandstones that were deposited about 60 million years ago in a deep sea area. The canyon itself was formed much later after the sedimentary rock sequence were uplifted and exposed on land about 15 million years ago. (Me: Wow, this canyon exists about 7 million years earlier than Mount Kinabalu.)

Left: smooth rockface of the canyon, Right: the bluish-gray stones on the riverside

Dr. Felix also said that there are other small canyons in Sabah too, but they are quite inaccessible. One such canyon can be found along Baliojong River in Kampung Togudon, Tandek in Kota Marudu. In terms of geological significance, Taralamas tells the geological history of Sabah during the Paleogene Period and illustrates the ongoing geomorphological process that shapes the surface of the earth. (Me: It’s also an extraordinary geotourism destination.)

Stories of Taralamas

My first impression of Taralamas is its hauntingly beautiful and mysterious vibe. Locals believe that some guardian spirits are living in this canyon. They don’t appreciate noisy people and dogs.

The big rock at the left looks like the face of a beast

Mr. David Julian, the founder of Tiang Lama Village Ecotourism, has been working on the tourism project there since 2019. He shared some stories of Taralamas with me. He thinks this canyon was probably discovered by the villagers who fished and hunted around Widu River in 1930s.

Left: misty forest of Tiang Lama village, Right: snake swimming in river canyon

The name “Taralamas” originated from the local word Dalamas, which means wall of big rocks at the river, or tall and slippery giant rocks along the river. Before Taralamas was open to tourists, it’s a fishing ground of the villagers.

People of Tiang Lama Village. Most of them are Dusun, the largest native group of Sabah.

Though the river there is teeming with fishes, the spirits can make fishermen go home empty-handed. Therefore, before the villagers catching the fishes together, their Bobolians (high priest) would perform a ritual to request for a bountiful caught permitted by the bunian (elf). As most villagers are converted to Christians or Muslims nowadays, they are no longer doing this, but they still remain respectful to the spirits in the canyon. That’s why shouting, cursing and offensive behaviours are not acceptable at Taralamas.

Playing in water and forest

Another story is a group of hunters were chasing a deer at Taralamas. A dog and deer fell into the canyon. When the hunters went down to search in the river, they were shocked to find that the dog and deer have turned into rocks and sticked on the wall of Taralamas River Canyon. The figures are still there, but faded now due to water erosion.

Fees & Booking Info

To visit Taralamas River Canyon, you can book the tour online with one of the village operators listed below. Both operators offer different packages and services. Besides entrance and guiding fees, you can order add-on such as packed meals, transportation and homestay / camping. And hardcore hikers can opt for the longer trails (8km and 12km) to visit Sadoron Waterfall and Gibai Peak.

Left: Mimpori Nature Homestay, Right: sunset view of Mount Kinabalu at Tiang Lama Village

1) Noponu Adventure Center

Website (booking): noponu.com
Facebook: @noponucamp
E-mail: davidjulian5583@gmail.com
Phone: +60 19-5803558

2) Tolungan Daralamas River Canyon

Website (booking): tntdaralamas.com
Facebook: @taralamasofficial
E-mail: tntdaralamas@gmail.com
Phone: +60 19-5826269, +60 13-2343949

Note: They would cancel the tour if the weather is bad (canyon flooded). If you plan to overnight in Tiang Lama Village, do bring some warm clothing. It’s very cold at night (about 16°C).

How to get there

Tiang Lama Village is a remote site located between Ranau and Tambunan districts. If you depart from Kota Kinabalu City, the driving distance is about 170 Kilometres (or 106 miles). The last 25 KM to the village is a gravel road, while the rest is paved road in ok condition. It takes 3.5 or more hours to reach the village by car. For day trip, you better move as early as 5am.

Left: 4-wheel-drive is the best transport to Tiang Lama, Right: van stranded in muddy road

The junction (GPS: 5.858062880692335, 116.50639939196654, see Location Map) to Tiang Lama is next to the main road between Ranau and Tambunan towns. The 25-km gravel road is muddy after rain, so getting there by 4-wheel drive is highly advisable. Or you may book the transportation with the operator, who can pick you up in Ranau or Tambunan town.

Things to Bring

The following is a list of recommended items to bring for day trip. It’s for your reference only, you may not need them all.

Left: outfit for the hike, Middle: waterproof casing for phone, Right: leech repellent
  • Drinking water & bottle
  • Backpack with rain cover
  • Dry bag
  • Raincoat / poncho
  • Cash
  • Jacket or windbreaker
  • Gloves (for using ropes)
  • Anti-leech socks
  • Waterproof casing for phone or camera
  • Power bank and charger cable
  • Swimwear / Spare clothing
  • Towel
  • Extra socks
  • Plastic bag (to store wet or soiled clothing)
  • Toilet paper
  • Tissue paper or wet wipe
  • Hiking sticks
  • Insect repellent
  • Optional: Lunch Box + spoon, energy bar / snacks, personal medicines, hat, sunglasses, sunblock lotion

Photos taken in Ranau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Malubang, a beautiful fishing village in Pitas

When I was on a quest to explore the legend of Supirak, I found myself another wonderful seaside vacation at Malubang Village (Local Name: Kampung Malubang), a remote fishing village in Pitas near the tip of northern Sabah. Spend a few days there and you will experience a simple village life without electricity, Wifi, water heater, air-conditioner, asphalt road, etc.

Malubang Village (Kampung Malubang) in Pitas, north of Sabah

Kampung Malubang (Malubang Village)

Malubang Village is located at a beach in Marudu Bay. Most villagers are Sulu people who mainly work as a fisherman. Every morning you can see their fishing boats depart for fishing trip.

Every house owns a boat in Malubang Village

Malubang is facing Kudat town and Tip of Borneo is clearly visible at the horizon. In fact, Kudat is less than an hour away by boat, and Banggi Island takes about 20 minutes.

A fisherman fixing his fishing net

Some houses are still using well for water supply

Though tourists seldom come here, the friendly villagers are ok with outsiders taking a stroll in the village. They are shy but smile a lot. It’s a small fishing village with about 30 houses. Foreigners would find the fence-less stilt houses there interesting.

A house with colorful hanging clothes

During my visit, there was an open house wedding reception (of Mizrul and Mastura) in the village. They were kind to invite me to have lunch with them and watched them dancing and celebrating.

Married couple Mizrul and Mastura

Group photo with the cute village girls who dressed up for wedding function

This village is a close community, in contrast to city. I confess I don’t know most of my neighbours and never visit their home too. May be it’s not only me.. Nowadays kids in same neighbourhood don’t mix around. In old days, I went cycling, fishing and climbing tree with my young neighbours, so Malubang brings back memory.

I enjoyed every moment in Malubang. The only thing I don’t like is that a lot of rubbishes washed up to the shore there.

Supirak Legend

Supirak Island and its surrounding legendary rocks are the main attractions of Malubang (as well as Pitas district). Legend says Supirak Island was a ship turned into a rock due to a curse by mother to her ungrateful son.

Cruising around Marudu Bay

At Malubang, you can charter a small boat easily (for less than MYR80) to visit these island and rocks around the bay, as every villager owns a boat (life vest may not be provided).

Rocks and wells of Supirak legend

Besides Supirak Island, there are many other places of interest in Pitas, to name a few, traditional fishing platform named Bagang, long-nosed monkey in mangrove forest of Bengkoka River, and Esplanade Bengkoka. Due to limited tourism facilities and lack of promotion, Pitas isn’t a popular destination.

Accommodation

Malubang Homestay is the only accommodation in Malubang Village. At the edge of Malubang, the lodge is a longhouse style accommodation with 6 Rooms. The rate is MYR40 to MYR50 (about USD$10 to 12.50) per room per night. It could be fully booked during peak season such as school holiday.

Malubang Homestay is the blue building under the yellow pointer

Rooms of Malubang Homestay

Each room is big enough to fit a group of 3 to 4 people, and it comes with attached bathroom cum toilet, beds, and fan. You can cook in common kitchen area, but you need to bring your own cooking utensils.

What we ate in Malubang Homestay

Please note there is no restaurant in the village. You can request the lodge to prepare the meals for you (Fee per head: Breakfast MYR4.00, Lunch MYR10.00, High Tea MYR2.00 and Dinner MYR10.00).

Enjoy meals with sea view

Everything in this lodge is basic. Power supply is only available from 6pm to 6am (by power generator), which provide lighting and sufficient electricity to charge your phone and camera.

The view in front of Malubang Homestay

But hey, the nice sea view makes up for it, and beach is less than 20 Meters away. Some beach resorts want guests to pay thousands for such view. The little rocky island at the left is Bum-Bum with a half-completed jetty (lack of fund to finish).

Malubang Homestay and its beach

There was no mosquito net in the room. To prevent mosquitoes eating me, I had to position the standing fan to point to my bed to blow those buggers away.

Malubang Homestay in Pitas

For booking, you can contact Mr. Moktar at cellphone: +60 19-8212597 (Whatsapp available). Moktar is Orang Sungai married with 5 kids. He starts the lodge in 2008. The GPS location of Malubang Homestay is 6.956184, 117.060140 (see Location Map). Moktar also can arrange the tour and boat transfer to visit the attractions nearby.

Seafood feast, a treat by Moktar!

Most guests are families from Pitas and Kota Marudu. Moktar will be happy to receive some international tourists. He understands that his lodge could be better, so he plans to improve his accommodation.

Fat crab with juicy meat

When we were ready to check-out, Moktar was missing in action for nearly an hour. Then he suddenly showed up and brought a covered plate, with mysterious smile on his face. He cooked us a big plate of yummy and steaming fresh crabs. Thank you Moktar! You are such a nice guy.

Sunset

Malubang Homestay is facing west, so you can enjoy watching giant yolk sinks into sea every day. I need not to say more.

Beautiful sunset at Malubang

Magic hour of Pitas

After dusk, the brightest thing at night here is the city light of Kudat at the horizon. Power line hasn’t reached this village yet.

Fishing

You might think that this peaceful fishing village becomes even quieter after nightfall. Wrong. Many villagers, both young and old, are busy fishing at the jetties at night. FYI, Malubang Village is famous for fishing giant squid (Sotong Gergasi), which can weigh up to 6 Kilograms and abundant from Oct to Feb every year. Now I understand why every visitors brought a fishing rod.

Local anglers got busy after sunset

Malubang is so lucky to have 3 jetties that extend a few hundreds Meters to the sea, so the people can fish anytime, even during low tide. I didn’t bring a fishing rod, so I was just busybody and check out what they caught. There were mainly stingray and fishes, some are over 2 Kg, quite big.

Many locals come to Malubang for fishing holiday during weekends

FYI, my Maxis mobile phone got one bar of signal at the end of the jetty, enough for me to check Whatsapps and emails.

Milky Way

It’s quite windy in the evening. I felt so relax laying on the platform of jetty and enjoyed the sea breeze. The sky was full of stars and shooting stars appeared almost every few minutes, some are quite big and last 4 or 5 seconds.

Pitas is a good place for stargazing

That’s crazy that by 7:30pm I already could see Milky Way spanned across the sky like a silver belt. I didn’t know Pitas is an excellent place for stargazing.

Kampung Pansuran

I also walked around Kampung Pansuran (Pansuran Village), a smaller fishing village about a stone’s throw from Malubang Village. Most residents there are Bajau Sama people.

View from Kampung Pansuran Village

Visit the water village of Kampung Pansuran

The villagers there are also equally nice and friendly. They were busy with fish caught and dried some of them under the sun to make dried seafood.

A young fisherman in Kampung Pansuran Village

Dried fishes on boardwalk of Kampung Pansuran Village

They still use traditional fishing methods such as fishing net and fishing line. Pitas is famous for its dried seafood.

Dried stingrays and fishes

Talking about village life, you might visualize I become a shirtless muscle guy playing soccer and laugh with the local kids, a cliche scene common in many movies. No, I didn’t do that, LOL.

Mondou Hill (Bukit Mondou)

To make sure I didn’t miss out any attraction near Malubang Village, Moktar took me to Bukit Mondou, a small hill only a few minutes drive from the village.

Mondou Hill (Bukit Mondou) in Pitas

Though Bukit Mondou is the highest point in Malubang, it is less than 80 Meters high, and it took us less than 30 minutes to reach the top. The trail is mostly flat and not challenging at all.

Climbing Mondou Hill (Bukit Mondou) in Pitas

However, the trail is not tourist-friendly and covered by long grasses. Please don’t go there alone.

You can see Berungus from the top of Mondou Hill (Bukit Mondou)

The view on top of Bukit Mondou is nice, as you can see Supirak Island and have a panoramic view of Malubang and Marudu Bay.

How to get there

From Kota Kinabalu City (KK), you need to drive about 5 hours to reach Malubang Village. The first 3 hours drive from KK to Pitas town is on 140 KM of paved road in good condition. The last 60 KM further north from Pitas to Malubang Village will be a bumpy 2-hour ride on gravel road.

The distance from Pitas town to Malubang Village is about 60 KM

Therefore, you need 4-Wheel Drive to enter this remote place. Though small sedan such as Kancil also can make it, it’ll be a pain to move around the potholes, mud ponds and uneven surface. The GPS Coordinates of Kampung Malubang is 6.956184, 117.060140 (see Location Map).

Gravel road from Pitas town to Malubang Village

It’s advisable you stop by Pitas town to have lunch and fill up the gas tank. For first timer, avoid to drive there at night because there is no street light along the way. Please also note that Uber and GrabCar aren’t available in Pitas district. Internet and mobile phone coverage are limited in most part of the journey.

Moktar pointing at Kudat town

Shopping for dried seafood (e.g. dried shrimps, salty fishes) in Pitas

Btw, one the way home, you may buy some dried seafood from the roadside stalls around Pitas, for great bargain.

Photos taken in Pitas, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Sunsuron Homestay in Tambunan, the Valley of Bamboo

Tourism is defined [1] as “…the activities of persons travelling to and staying in places outside their usual environment…” Oh yea, travelling should be an extraordinary experience. If we go sightseeing like a typical tourist, everyone would see the same thing and go home telling the same story. Probably the only interaction between most tourists and the locals is waving hands to each other to and from a tourist bus.

Group photo with Tambunan Valley in the background

Therefore, instead of staying in a hotel that looks no different to other hotels in your hometown, you may consider homestay. In hotel you are just a guest, in homestay you are a friend. Don’t just leave your footprint on a foreign land, leave a wonderful memory between you and the local people.

Sumazau dance by Dusun Tambunan youth

Last month I decided to live like a local in homestay of Kampung Sunsuron (“Kampung” is Village in Malay word) in Tambunan, a remote town 80 Kilometers away from Kota Kinabalu (KK), the capital city of Sabah. The mountainous landscape, cooling climate and scenic greenery earns Tambunan the nickname Switzerland of the East.

Sunsuron Village & Homestay

Tambunan is on a highland with average altitude of 750 Meters, so it is refreshing and can be quite chilling at night. Besides, it’s a land uninvaded by McDonald’s and Starbucks, where you can appreciate more authentic cultural experience and village lifestyle.

One of the houses of Sunsuron Homestay

More than 130 years ago, the Sunsuron area was uninhabited, because it was a hot zone of headhunting and tribe wars. In 1885, British North Borneo Chartered Company established police base in Sunsuron to end the unrest.

Bamboo is everywhere in Tambunan, and this is not by accident.

Thanks to Taliban and the bygone British colonial government, Tambunan is also known as the Valley of Bamboo. When peace was restored in 1930s, flourishing agriculture and development created huge demand for bamboo, which caused over-harvesting and led to more shortage of bamboo.

Welcoming traditional dance for the guests of homestay

Therefore, OKK Taliban, the first Native Chief of Tambunan, worked with Peter Lupang Tingkalus from Tambunan Forestry Department, to implement a policy requiring everyone to plant ten bamboo for every bamboo cut [2]. This worked so well that thriving bamboo has became an icon of Tambunan. According to Malaysian Timber Industry Board (MTIB), Tambunan has the highest density of bamboo in Sabah, as 62% (3,200 hectares) of Sabah’s bamboo forest are located in Tambunan.

Welcoming gong by villagers

The name Sunsuron is the slip of the tongue over time from the Kadazan Dusun word “Sunsuyon”, which means bridge. There was a bamboo bridge for the villagers to cross the Sunsuron River at that time. The host of our homestay is Mr. Peter Gatulik and his wife. Peter is a retired police officer and his children had grown up and live somewhere else, leaving some empty rooms that he is happy to offer to traveller who wants a home away from hometown.

Gastronomic Adventure

Homestay in Sabah means more than cheap accommodation. You live like part of their family. It’s not a hotel where you can find bellboy or your favorite sweet-and-sour food.

“We have everything except pizza and muffin. Please make yourself at home.”

You eat what they eat. No salad but tuhau; No salmon but basung; No red wine but lihing. None of our exotic food tastes like chicken. Enjoy the acquired taste!

Traditional appetizer (from left): Serunding Tuhau, Tuhau and Bambangan

In Sabah culture, food is important for building friendship, so your host will make sure that you are well-fed. For traditional appetizers, you would be given hinava (fish slices marinated in lime juice), tuhau (a type of wild ginger) and bambangan (pickled mango-like fruit).

Feast on local food

Hinava is a “safe choice”. For first timers, tuhau can either taste like stink bug or food from heaven to them. No matter what, Tambunan is famous for Tuhau, so at least take a bite, or you can try Serunding Tuhau (Deep-fried Tuhau Floss), a less potent version of tuhau.

Broth with wild banana stems (umbut pisang)

You are lucky if it is the season for getting Borot (a type of small freshwater fish) and Birid (horn shell) from local river. Both are delicacy only available in rural area. Our traditional dish could be a bit of culture shock to you, but just be open-minded. You don’t travel a long way to Sabah just to eat hotel food right.

Linopot: rice and food wrapped in leaf

Just for fun, they also serve linopot, which is rice wrapped in big leaf. In the past, farmers and hunters brought linopot with them to the field and used the leaf as a plate.

Steamed Tilapia fishes

Tambunan is an agricultural district, so the meals of homestay usually comprise fresh and organic vegetables from local plantation. You would find that almost every house in village has a mini-farm and fish pond besides garden.

Lihing (left) and Tapai (right) are rice wines of Sabah

The villagers are very friendly, so it’s quite likely you would be offered a couple of drink. You may love the idea of warming up your body with locally brewed liquor in the cool evening, or you can politely decline if you don’t drink, no problem at all.

Beer and banana fritters as our breakfast lol

Normally beer and wine are not included in homestay unless you request. Anyway, you would be invited to wedding or festival celebrations if there is any nearby, so be prepared.

Turtle Rocks

Village is an excellent source of folk stories about strange things, but I was surprised that there is a weird “treasure” in the front yard of my host. Interestingly enough, it’s a rock, not gold or gem.

A pair of “turtle” rocks that look like carapace. It’s Ms Bibiana beside them.

More than two decades ago, Peter was on duty and patrolled around Pamol, Sandakan. A contractor was digging the ground to build a house near to a river, and pair of strange rocks were unearthed. Peter found the rocks very beautiful because they looked like the carapace of a turtle. Since nobody wanted them, he took them back home and left them at the staircase.

The turtle rock is quite heavy

The amazing rocks generated a lot of curiosity and the news spread. The rocks were even featured in Mystic magazine. Then a Chinese from Peninsular Malaysia offered RM30,000 (≈USD$7,300) to buy the turtle rocks. Even though the offer was irresistible, Peter cherished such serendipity and decided to keep them.

The value of these rocks is almost worth a car!

Before leaving, this buyer was kind to advise Peter that it’s more auspicious to place these rocks near the water. Probably this has something to do with Feng Shui, as tortoise or turtle is a sign of longevity and water symbolizes wealth.

Bottom of the Turtle Rock

Therefore, Peter put these rocks at the fish pond in his front yard. OMG I can’t believe he just leaves the RM30,000 rocks laying around like that. The whole village knows about these rocks, but for 20 years nobody steals them. Btw, Peter also welcomes anyone to study these rocks and tell him why they are so special.

Anyway, Bibiana, the daughter of Peter showed me more unbelievable things in Kampung Sunsuron, when we toured around the village later.

House of Skulls

In the past, the people of Sunsuron practised head-hunting to defend their territory. The skull was kept as a war trophy which locals believe was endowed with supernatural power and would protect the owner. Some said whenever their enemies approached their village, these skulls would shout to warn the people.

Checking out the House of Skulls

Most of the 35 skulls were the followers of Mat Salleh and collected during his last battle with British at Tambunan plain in 1900. These skulls were used to be hanged or placed in a wooden hut that didn’t last and always required repair, so a concrete head house was built, next to Spiritu Tobitua Church and a burial ground, in June 1959 by Y.N. Gampin to house the skulls.

The Head House is next to Spiritu Tobitua Church of Kampung Sunsuron

The locals call this head house Sunsuron Guritom. Guritom means black people in Kadazan Dusun language, because Mat Salleh’s followers had darker skin than Sunsuron people. One of the skulls belong to Sambatangan, the most-wanted hero of the enemy, whose head is said as big as a bucket. The head house is still standing today (GPS Location: 5.742147, 116.377498, see Location Map or Street View), but the skulls are gone (a local says some of them are buried under the head house) because somebody stole them for use in black or white magic.

The plan of head house is almost square (about 1 Meter in width and height), and the roof is in the form of pyramid, with an apex surmounted with a concrete image of a skull.

According to a research [3], at least half of the skulls were female, the majority being either young or very old, while some 10 percent of the remainder are adolescent boys.

An old skull belongs to a headhunter (now kept by Sabah Museum)

In early days, you must ask head-house keeper to take you to visit the head house. If you go alone you must pay 2 dollars sogit (fine) to the village. People who disturb the skull would become sick, insane, or worst, die.

Inscription on the Head House

The elder villagers would tell you that the village used to perform ritual to feed and appease these skulls annually. Villagers were required to contribute some money to share the cost of buying food such as buffalo. If the ritual was postponed, people would hear the noise of chattering teeth from the skulls, it was freaking scary when there was no lamppost at night that time. However, villagers were too poor to feed them, so the last ritual was performed in 1970s, with Bobolian (native priest) declared to the skulls that there would be no more feeding.

Watu Tinuridong the Bulletproof Stone

Just a stone’s throw away from the Head House is the historical Watu Tinuridong (or Tinuridung) Stone (GPS Location: 5.742725, 116.378539. See Location Map). According to oral tradition of Kampung Sunsuron, this stone was found in late 19th century, the time Mat Salleh revolted against the British ruling.

This menhir is 2.13 Meters high, 2.18 Meters wide at the base, with an average thickness of 23 cm.

In 1898, Mat Salleh agreed to ceasefire (Palatan Peace Pact) with British North Borneo and stayed in Tambunan. However, Mat Salleh was hostile to Kampung Sunsuron, and he raided the village. Mat Salleh was more well-equipped with weapons such as cannon, so Kampung Sunsuron was asking for help from the British government.

This Watu Tinuridong stone was part of a 40-Meter circular defensive site. I found no bullet mark on the stone though.

The men of Sunsuron also prepared to defend themselves by digging a circular hollowed-out area, which has a circumference of 40 Meters, and used the earth to erect ramparts around it [4]. The excavated area was deep enough to hide standing men behind the wall. While digging they saw this large and flat stone and thought it’s an excellent shield for firearm. They erected the stone to make it stood.

Mat Salleh was defeated by the British force in 1900 with the help of Sunsuron warriors (Actually he was shot by a Maxim machine gun)

In local dialect, the action of erecting something is called monuridung hence this stone was named Tinuridong. Then two priestesses (bobolian) performed a ceremony to invite the spirit to reside in this stone as a guardian to keep the village away from any sickness and harm.

A car uses Watu Tinuridong stone as a shield to sunlight haha

Until today, some villagers believe a friendly spirit is still living inside Watu Tinuridong. Probably for this reason they don’t remove the stone, and it also becomes a memorial to commemorate the brave Sunsuron warriors who perished in the war. The locals also say that there might be treasure underneath the stone. Whoever tries to steal it will trigger a lightning to the stone.

Traditional Tambunan House

There is a traditional Tambunan house beside Watu Tinuridung Stone (GPS Location: 5.742818, 116.378591. See Location Map). This house was a real residence but now vacant after it was gazetted by Sabah Museum as a heritage house as it is the oldest bamboo house of Sabah.

A traditional Tambunan house in Sunsuron Village

The bamboo house is raised on hardwood stilts, sometimes large river stones are used instead. Though the window is small, the translucent quality of bamboo allows enough light to get inside the house.

The double pitched roof made entirely of interlocking bamboo shingles is the main characteristic of Tambunan bamboo house [5]

The beauty of this house is it was first constructed without using any nail. The wood, bamboo and poles are lashed together with rattan strips. However, after the ongoing maintenance, some nails are added to the structure.

Sirang is main part of the house, where residents eat and entertain the guests

This is a 100% wooden house, and most of the floor and wall are made of bamboo. There were many taboos in house building. For example, bamboo should not be taken during the time of full moon, and it’s bad luck to orientate the house entrance to the path of the setting sun, which is associated with death.

The top is where the girls sleep, or is used as a storeroom (dumpang)

For safety reason, young girls overnight in an attic (Linimput), a small platform built above the house’s main cross-lintel, and parents would remove the ladder that accesses their room. The rattan knots that bind the wood together are already an art. I wonder how many people can tie these knots nowadays.

Wood tied by rattan strips. Note how they join two poles together in photo at the left.

Sunsuron is awesome huh? Currently, there are 18 families participated in Sunsuron Homestay (Muslim host available). The standard rate of accommodation (with 2 meals) in homestay is RM85 per day (≈US$21/day). You can request your host to organize more activities (additional fees applied) such as visiting Mahua Waterfall, Mt. Trus Madi, Mt. Wakid, Batu Gong Rock and Rafflesia Information Center, biking, birding, fishing and hiking.

I Love Sunsuron sculpture

The following is the contact of Sunsuron Homestay. You are advised to book the tour earlier instead of walking in:
Facebook: ValleyOfSwitzerland
E-mail: sunsuronstay@yahoo.com
Sunsuron Homestay’s Coordinator: Ms Bibiana P. Gatulik (Cellphone: +60 14-6792148)

References

  1. Definition by World Tourism Organization (UNWTO)
  2. Source: Bamboo Planting in Tambunan, by Rahim Sulaiman
  3. For further reading: Head-hunting and the Magang Ceremony in Sabah, by Peter R. Phelan, published by Natural History Publications (Borneo), ISBN-13: 978-9839638158
  4. See Traditional stone and wood monuments of Sabah, by Peter R. Phelan, ISBN-13: 978-9839722031
  5. More Info: The Tambunan Bamboo House in Local and national History, by Richard Nelson Sokial, Vol 23 – The Sabah Society Journal – (2006)

Photos taken in Tambunan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Kiulu Farmstay at the Valley in the Mist

Countryside is always stereotyped as a backward place for the poor. However, as a city grows big, urban people have to deal with more traffic jam and pollution, high living cost and smaller space, and now they envy the Orang Kampung (villagers), who enjoy a richer and healthier life because of fresh air, clean water and organic food in rural area.

Kiulu is one of the most beautiful villages of Malaysia

I read somewhere that says Kiulu is the second most beautiful village of Malaysia and also known as the Valley in the Mist. In fact, Kiulu is a kingdom of villages because it consists of 103 villages. When driving on the winding and hilly road in Kiulu, you will be mesmerized by the lush hills, clean river, scenic plantation and peaceful villages.

Kiulu, the Valley of Mist

Therefore, I was so glad to visit Kiulu Farmstay in April to experience village lifestyle for 2 days in this magnificent place. Kiulu is only 1 hour and 15 minutes away from Kota Kinabalu City (KK) by car, very convenient for me to reconnect with nature and to appreciate what are gone in city, i.e. fresh air, clean rivers and starry sky.

Tamparuli Town

On the way to Kiulu Farmstay, my guide, Pius and I stopped briefly in Tamparuli Town for a walk at Tamparuli Bridge and local market. FYI, Tamparuli Mee, a homemade local noodle, is a must-try if you eat in this town.

(left) Tamparuli Bridge that looks like a Natgeo logo, and (right) view of Mt. Kinabalu on the way to Kiulu

I saw people feeding fishes under the bridge. There are probably thousand of them, most are fat fishes over 1 feet long! According to a local, the river is under Tagal system (no fishing), so the fishes can grow really big.

“Village is a place where you can find peace, unity, strength, inspiration and most importantly a natural and beautiful life” – Minahil Urfan

The Fig Tree Eco-Lodge

After 45 minutes of driving from Tamparuli, we arrived Kiulu Farmstay. I was excited when I saw the crystal clear river from the hanging bridge. The emerald color of the river is a sign of natural water, something healthier than chlorinated blue swimming pool.

Hanging bridge to Kiulu Farmstay

River under the hanging bridge

Kiulu Farmstay is surrounded by greenery. The bamboo lodge blends very well into the nature. I saw no big cement structure.

I overnight in the building at the right. The small building at the left is common bathroom and kitchen for campers.

In contrast to warm and sunny environment of beach resort, the riverside Fig Tree Lodge is tranquil and refreshing. I always dream of owning a house next to a river, so I can go swimming and fishing anytime. Staying in Kiulu Farmstay makes me desire it even more.

Bamboo houses of Kiulu Farmstay (Fig Tree Ecolodge)

The Fig Tree Lodge itself is an attraction. It’s so well built and designed, you can tell that they spend a lot of efforts to details. Except the roof, most items such as furniture and wall are made of locally sourced bamboo and wood. Some big bamboo poles are 20 years old. It’s an unique traditional house with some contemporary elements.

Dining area in the bamboo house. Nazllie (left, journalist), Pius (2nd from right, tour guide), and Jumadi (middle) & Esther (right) are our host

The lodge has two rooms that can accommodate about 4 to 6 people, big enough for a family group. They plan to build 8 more rooms in future. Electricity is on 24×7, so fan, light and hot water are always available. The lodge is also complete with a kitchen, bathroom and dining area.

My bedroom and the paddy grinder outside

The bedroom is clean and neat that I had no problem sleeping deeply. The split bamboo walling and flooring make this lodge looks like a cozy home of farmer. They add layer of rice husk waste between the walls to regulate the temperature.

This fig tree is the icon of Kiulu Farmstay

Near the lodge is a big fig tree. Locals believe fig tree is spiritual (never swear or curse under fig tree), so some traditional rituals are performed under fig tree.

Fresh organic food in Kiulu Farmstay

Esther is our cook who can make very nice local dish from fresh fruits and vegetables such as banana buds, tapioca, maize, pumpkin and sayur manis (Sabah vege). Worrying that we were not used to village food, she always asked, “is it good?” She should know that we are happy by looking at our empty plates lol.

Hiking

After a fulfilling lunch, Jumadi and Pius took us to explore the jungle nearby. Actually the so-called jungle is “forested orchard”. Instead of clearing the land for plantation, they let the fruit trees grow scatterly and wildly among the wood.

Plantation in village and forest. Can you tell what these trees are?

That’s why at first I was puzzled when Pius pointed here and there to introduce variety of crops, herb, vegetables and fruits that he spotted along the way, when I thought we were walking in a forest. My late grandfather also used to have such orchard in Tamparuli, and I often saw fowls, pangolin and other wildlife foraging in his plantation.

Variety of edible plant and fruits. From left to right, top to bottom: Pineapple, edible fern, cempedak, salak

Just to list some crops that we saw, mango, durian, bambangan, rambutan, cempedak, rubber, peanut, maize, tarap, fern, sayur manis (Sabah vegetable). The best month to visit is September, which is the start of fruiting season, and they say you can eat so many free fruits that are almost worth as much as the tour.

Liposu fruit

Among the dense undergrowth are some herb and spice plant too, like gingers and tuhau. We also walked around the farmland of villagers. They are really friendly and don’t mind we roam in their territory.

Edible ginger or tuhau

No matter how developed a country is, agriculture is still extremely important for a nation to achieve self-sufficiency on food. A healthy environment is crucial to sustainable farming, so it shouldn’t be taken for granted.

Trekking along the river

Even first world countries such as Japan and UK send their students to expose to farmstay, to learn the relationship between agriculture and mankind.

Mantob Waterfall in the forest

During jungle trekking, we also crossed a few streams and went upstream to see Mantob Waterfall. Watch at the video below and see how clean the water is, as if we can drink it unboiled.

The clean river isn’t by luck. The villagers of Kiulu love their environment, so they keep the water source free from pollution and deforestation.

Unpolluted river of Kiulu Valley

River

We sweated a lot after 2.5 hours of hiking. Kiulu has one of the cleanest rivers in Sabah, so it’s a shame not to take a soak there.

Hanging bridge and the river

I camped in Kiulu more than 20 years ago. I’m happy that the river still remains clean and chilling until today. Now Kiulu even becomes the most popular destination for white water rafting.

Crystal clear river of Kiulu

In America, 40% of the rivers are polluted and are considered unhealthy for swimming, fishing or aquatic life. The same thing will happen to Sabah, if we don’t protect our rivers.

Enjoying the clean water (but too shallow to do tubing)

I wanted to try tubing, but too bad the water was too shallow that time due to prolong drought. Further downstream there is a spot where you can snorkel and see many fishes. The world populations of freshwater species have declined by 55% between 1970 and 2000. Fortunately, many rivers in Sabah have tagal (no fishing) system in place to prevent over-fishing.

Buffalo skull next to the bridge

Buffalo skull has replaced human as sacrifice for bridge construction

To locals, river is the source of life and the origin of civilization, and it is also viewed as the guardian. In our history, people were sacrificed to appease the river god, whenever a new bridge was built. Nowadays, buffalo skull is used instead.

The Stars

Kiulu Farmstay is formed by three villages: Kampung Mantob, Kampung Pinagon Baru and Kampung Dumpiring. City people can live at a place many years without knowing who is their neighbour, but nobody is a stranger in a Sabah village.

Party with villagers at night. Thank you Saidin, Sikong, Johari, Pius and others for the wonderful time.

In the evening the villagers shared some food and liquor (Montoku and Lihing, the local rice wine) with me. We drank and played music until late night. Some local stories, history and folktales were told, the most interesting one is a snake-like eel up to 5 feet long could be found in their river in old days.

Milky Way in Kiulu

I ended up quite tipsy going to bed, so it’s a miracle that I could wake up at 3am to take some photos of Milky Way. Though starry sky is nothing special to our villagers, light pollution prevents 1/3 of world from seeing Milky Way. 80% of North Americans and 100% of Singaporeans can’t see Milky Way in their cities.

Quad Biking

Somehow I managed to get up on time in next morning and tried quad biking the first time. Initially I thought it would be something leisure like cycling in a garden. Oh my lord, the quad bike really rocks like a mini 4-wheel drive and able to conquer any terrain.

Quad biking in Kiulu

Quad bike can go really fast and furious. The braver you are, the more fun you can get out of it, and it’s really addictive. I would say it is the highlight of this trip. The deeper part of Kiulu is the best playground for quad biking, as it has many rugged road in undulating slopes, with scenic forest, hill, gorge and village view along the way.

Quad bike is quite easy to operate. Before we hit the road, they let us practiced in a field first. We started at 8:30am and had fun riding 22 Kilometers until 11:30am.

Gorge in Kiulu

Quad biking is more powerful than scooter, so it can cause severe injury if we are not careful. However, I didn’t know what happened to me. I’m not a risk taker, but my personality changed when I was riding this bike. I was so reckless and fearless in speeding on bumpy and steep road. Anyway, it’s really fun.

Quad biking in Kiulu

Quad bike is a beast and seems like having a mind of its own. You have to fight a bit hard with it to fully control the stiff steering, or it’ll take you to hell. Don’t worry. Just go slow and get used to it in the beginning.

Big Foot Point in Kiulu

After 11 KM, we stopped by Big Foot Point in Kipunti Village for a break. Locals say footprints of big foot were seen around here, when they constructed the new road. Kiulu is also the Valley of Mystery.

Rumour says there is big foot around here

Kiulu has gradually become a popular place for people who want to experience village lifestyle and outdoor adventure in nature. You can book the tour online. Other activities you can do include rice processing, rubber tapping, cooking, buffalo riding, BBQ, fish spa, camping, etc.

You can contact Kiulu Farmstay for more info:
Website: kiulufarmstay.com
Facebook: KiuluFarmstay
Tel: +60 88-438300
E-mail: info@kiulufarmstay.com
GPS: 5.975465, 116.302143 (see Location Map)
See more photos of Kiulu Farmstay

Photos taken in Kiulu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Traditional Food of Kuala Penyu

Kuala Penyu is a small town in south-west of Sabah, and majority of the population there are Dusun Tatana, Orang Brunei, and Bisaya people. Personally I call Kuala Penyu a “quiet corner” of Sabah because it looks like an ordinary countryside of Sabah, but they do have some special food.

Ambuyat

Ambuyat is a traditional dish of the Bisaya and Orang Brunei in Kuala Penyu district, as well as a popular traditional Sabah cuisine. It is a type of starch extracted from sago palm tree.

Ambuyat with side dishes (bamboo shoot, fishes, shell (tuntul), curry)

This translucent and sticky sago paste is almost tasteless, so the locals usually eat it together with side dishes such as fishes and curry, or dip it in sour sauce or fish soup.

“Chopsticks” of Kuala Penyu

The people of Kuala Penyu use Candas, which looks like Chinese chopsticks but is thinner and made from sago leaf stalk or bamboo stick, to scoop the slimy ambuyat.

Right way to use candas

They twirl the soft ambuyat around the prongs of candas to bite-sized, and then dip it into a sour or hot sauce. That could be a fun experience if you try this food the first time.

Bisaya girls

Ambuyat is one of the staple food in Kuala Penyu. Due to its popularity, some hotels also have ambuyat on their menu, so tourists can try it out. There is a joke that says, “If you are poor, you eat ambuyat at home. If you are rich, you eat it in a hotel.” LOL

Orang Brunei people

Tinimbu Dumpling

With a population of 6,000, Dusun Tatana is a unique indigenous group which is influenced by Chinese culture, because there were groups of China merchants who traded and married the locals in Kuala Penyu more than 250 years ago. For example, they also celebrate Chinese New Year.

Tinimbu dumpling

My first impression of Tinimbu (or Tinimbuh) of Dusun Tatana is – it looks like a miniature version of Chinese dumpling, and I also wonder if they learn this from Chinese in the past. Tinimbu is made from glutinous rice and wrapped in triangular shape by pandan (or bamboo) leaves and tied with lamba vine. Unlike Chinese dumpling, Tinimbu has no filling.

Dusun Tatana from Kuala Penyu. Some of their ancestors may have lineage of Chinese.

Tinimbu is served during occasions such as Chinese New Year. To eat, dip it in coarse sugar and enjoy the aroma of sticky rice and pandan in each bite. I’m sure children like it.

Sago Grubs (Butod)

The last and the least appetizing food is Sago Grub (locally known as Butod), which can be eaten raw or cooked. I have tried both. The live worm tastes like coconut milk and the fried butod is like dry fish skin.

Fried Sago Grubs (Butod)

Though many Sabahans struggle with eating Butod, some people really love it because it improves hair growth, increases sex drive, and reduces obesity. These health benefits are quite powerful motivations to eat sago grub (even if it tastes bad which it doesn’t).

Dusun Tatana food on display during Harvest Festival of Sabah (Kaamatan)

There are still many Kuala Penyu food that are not introduced here. To learn and sample traditional food of Dusun Tatana, you may visit the Kuala Penyu house in KDCA Penampang during Kaamatan Grand Finale (Harvest Festival) on 30 and 31 May every year.

Traditional food of Dusun Tatana people

Or you can try these food in Kuala Penyu homestay. For more information, please contact Dr. Monih Epin (Tel: +60 19-8106786) or Ms Monica Gualin (Tel: +60 13-8517633), the operator of Borneo Kuala Penyu Homestay.

Photos taken in Kuala Penyu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Mud Volcano in Kuala Penyu

Real volcano is intimidating, but mud volcano is intriguing. Mud volcano is formed when natural gas builds up enough pressure in the earth’s crust to push mud, water and gases to the surface. It is found in many locations on earth and even on planet Mars.

The location of mud volcano in Kuala Penyu

Sometimes mud volcano can emerge at unexpected places. One of them is located on a knoll 5 Kilometers away from Kuala Penyu town (see Location Map), and believed to be connected to the same mud volcanic network of Pulau Tiga Island 18 Km away, an island created by mud volcano.

Burping mud volcano in the pond. About 86% of the gas released from mud volcano is combustible methane.

Though producing no lava, mud volcano looks like a miniature version of true igneous volcano, a little wonder of nature. Last month the operator of Borneo Kuala Penyu Homestay in Kuala Penyu brought me and other guests to an active mud volcano in Bakung. After 5 minutes of driving on tar road near Kuala Penyu, we turned to a junction with narrow countryside road that led us to a plantation half a Km away.

The following video shows you what we did with mud volcano:

We got off our cars and walked 30 Metres to a pond which is surrounded by trees and shrubs. I looked around but saw no volcano. Dr. Monih, our host pointed to the pond and said , “See the bubbling in the pond? It’s from the mud volcano.” Apparently the mud volcano is under the water.

The pond where mud volcano hidden

According to the land owner, this mud volcano has existed since 1960s, and the pond seldom goes dry even during drought. This oval-shaped pond is about 35 x 10 Metres in size and doesn’t seem to connect to any water source such as river. Probably the water is coming from the mud volcano.

This mud volcano was discovered in 1960s

Then Dr. Monih asked a worker to scoop some mud from the pond. “Rub this mud on your face, and you will become beautiful,” he said.

Apply this on your face. It’s Free LOL

He wasn’t kidding (though he laughed). This mud is rich in natural minerals that are good for skin and promote good complexion. People also believe it can soothe irritated skin and even cure psoriasis. A bath in mud volcano would heal some ailments such as rheumatism.

Applying volcano mud on the face

Even guys are crazy about mud SPA

From what I read in a few research papers, mud from mud volcano consists of high concentration of Iron, Magnesium, Sodium, Calcium, and Potassium. Wildlife loves to visit mud volcano for “salt lick”, to get essential mineral nutrients for their bodies, just like human taking vitamin pills as supplment.

This pond never goes dry even during drought

Mud volcano acts as “window” to see what are deep underground because it can transport gas, liquid, and solid particles from depths of several kilometres up to the surface. Therefore, it’s no surprise that the mud might consist of rare earth materials useful for a mud therapy.

Collecting volcano mud

The fresh mud is fine-grained clay in dark gray color. Perhaps the mud is from the pond, so it smells like decomposed organic substances of peat. I just applied some mud on my hands for fun. The mud is neither cool nor warm.

Volcano mud is rich in minerals

Some guests decide to take some mud back home. Sometimes mud volcano would give people more than mud. It is often associated with petroleum deposits. Therefore, if a mud volcano pop-up in your backyard, do celebrate.

Take away as much mud as you want

To see this mud volcano in private land, you can call Dr. Monih Epin (Tel: +60 19-8106786) or Ms Monica Gualin (Tel: +60 13-8517633), the operator of Borneo Kuala Penyu Homestay to arrange a visit (fee may apply).

Papaya trees

We saw a few yellow papaya not far away from the mud volcano. At first I thought the fruit turned yellow because of malnutrition. Then they told me that it’s only found in Sawangan of Kuala Penyu (probably a mutant caused by soil of mud volcano?).

Yellow papaya in Kuala Penyu

Green Vs Yellow papaya

However, I didn’t give it a try *regret*. According to Dr. Monih, it is really sweet.

Yellow papaya

Other Mud Volcanoes of Sabah:

Photos taken in Kuala Penyu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Accommodations near to Kinabalu Park, Kundasang

Kinabalu Park is the most popular destination of Sabah, visitors usually find it highly desirable to spend more time exploring the park. However, the official accommodation in Kinabalu Park is expensive. For about RM200 a night, you only get the cheapest dormitory bed with common bathroom in Kinabalu Park. If you don’t mind staying outside the park, RM200 can make you feel like a VIP.

Want more value from your money? In this article is a list of alternative accommodations within 2 Kilometre radius (walking distance) of Kinabalu Park. If cost is not important and your single top priority is convenience, then you may book the room of Kinabalu Park online.


The following accommodations range from budget lodges, mid-range chalets to high-end resort, and you can see their exact locations in my Google map. Three things to note:

  1. The prices listed here are normal rates. The accommodation fee is higher in peak season (weekends, public and school holiday).
  2. Each hotel has different policy. e.g. the check-in time can be as early as 1pm or as late as 3pm.
  3. The rates published in some websites might be outdated or don’t include 6% GST (Government Service Tax, or known as VAT in other countries).

Recommended Accommodations

To save your time, I personally recommend four accommodations for you to have a quick start. They get excellent or good reviews by their guests, and I’m neither paid nor sponsored by any of them.

1. J Residence

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 400 Meters (≈0.25 Mile)
Rates: RM88/room to RM480/villa (US$≈26-145) (online booking available)
Room Types: Twin-Bed Room, Family Room (Triple-Bed), Villa (3 rooms)


Kinabalu Park is only a 15-minute walk away from J Residence. No matter you are solo or group traveller, you will get the most bang for your buck here. Start from RM88, you already can get a spacious and comfy bedroom, with attached bathroom and balcony. The lodge overlooks the lush green hills and farm of Bundu Tuhan.


Their main feature is the see-through glass door and window that allow you to enjoy the misty view of highland (Room 5B has the best view). The lodge has no restaurant but the nearest one (Restoran Bayu Kinabalu) is only 50 Meters away. They have BBQ pits if you want to throw a party, and charcoals and utensils can be provided for a small fee.


Website: www.jresidence.com
Facebook: J.Residence.Kundasang
E-mail:
Tel: +60 12-8696969

2. Mile 36 Lodge

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 1.4 Km (≈0.87 Mile)
Rates: RM120/room to RM360/bungalow (US$≈36-109) (online booking available)
Room Types: Twin-bed / Triple-bed Rooms, Family Room (4 pax), Studio Room, Bungalow (8 pax)


Formerly known as Sunny’s Village, Mile 36 Lodge is a decent accommodation for family vacation because of its surrounding garden and fantastic view of Mt. Kinabalu at their front lawn.


(Photo Source: Facebook of Mile 36 Lodge)

For visitors who seek for a homey environment in cooling highland, Mile 36 Lodge is suitable for a long stay. Its rooms are clean, amenities are well-maintained, and it has a restaurant and souvenir shop.


Website: www.mile36lodge.com
Facebook: Mile-36-Lodge
E-mail:
Tel: +60 88-888161

3. Tahubang Lodge

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 100 Meters (≈328 Feet)
Rates: RM40/bed to RM160/room (US$≈12-36)


If you just want a convenient and cheap place to stay, and you don’t mind everything is basic, Tahubang Lodge will be your best choice. This lodge is only 100 Meters away from Kinabalu Park, the nearest accommodation to the park. Tahubang Lodge is a small lodge that can host 16 people, below are their room types:

  • 1 unit of Dormitory Room (Bunk Bed) @ RM40/bed or RM160/room
  • 1 unit of Twin-Bed Room @ RM100/room
  • 2 units of Queen-Size Bed Room @ RM120/room
  • 2 units of Triple-Bed Room @ RM150/room

(No meal included, shared toilet and bathroom)


Another plus of this lodge is, Panataran Restaurant is just next door, which serves good variety of local food. Free Wifi and hot shower are available. Luggage storage is also available for rent at RM5 per luggage.


Facebook: TahubangLodge
E-mail:
Tel: +60 88-888094

4. Jungle Jack Backpacker

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 1.6 Km (≈1 Mile)
Rates: RM35/bed (US$≈10)
Room Types: Dormitory bunk beds


(Photo Source: Facebook of Jungle Jack Backpacker)

Jungle Jack Backpacker is almost as basic as a camp that I have to think many times to recommend it. As its name implies, it is for backpacker and not for everyone. However, Jungle Jack Backpacker receives overwhelming positive reviews by their guests and becomes popular by words of mouth among European backpackers.


(Photo Source: Facebook of Jungle Jack Backpacker)

For foreign backpackers who travel in an unfamiliar land, they will really appreciate someone likes Uncle Jack (the owner), a local who is genuine in being their friend, guide and cook. The rave reviews are mainly due to the great hospitality of Uncle Jack. The accommodation fee includes bed, meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and unlimited coffee and tea!). Towels, blankets and storage space are provided. Goodness, for that price, I believe Uncle Jack is more interested in making friends than money.


(Photo Source: Facebook of Jungle Jack Backpacker)

Facebook: junglejackbackpacker
Tel: +60 10-9477509 (Whatsapp)

Just another reminder that you can see the location of these accommodations (yellow icon) in my map. My mark points are more accurate than Google’s.

(Click Here to see Bigger Map)

Other Accommodations

Here are over 10 other accommodations ordered by distance to Kinabalu Park. Some are more than 1 Km away. If 1+ Km isn’t considered as a “walking distance” to you, you may take public buses which move between Kinabalu Park and Kundasang / Ranau towns (roughly at 1-hour interval during daytime), or most lodges are more than happy to provide return transport to their guests.

1. Mountain Resthouse

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 400 Meters (≈0.25 Mile)
Rates: RM25/bed to RM80/room (US$≈7.50-24)
Room Types: Dormitory Bunk Bed, Double-Bed / Single-Bed Rooms
Tel: +60 16-8374060


Mountain Resthouse is a budget lodge which provides dormitory bunk bed (RM25/bed), single-bed room without attached bathroom (RM50), queen-sized bed room (RM60) and room with 1 queen-sized bed and 1 single bed (RM80). They have 12 dormitory rooms which can fit 2 to 4 people per room.


Hot water is available. They can cook your meal upon request (for a small fee). A lot of their customers are students.

2. Bayu Kinabalu Lodge

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 450 Meters (≈0.28 Mile)
Rates: RM15/bed to RM80/room (US$≈4.50-24) (online booking available)
Room Types: 8-bed / 6-bed Dormitory, Single-bed / Double-bed Rooms, 4-bed Family Room


Bayu Kinabalu Lodge is a budget accommodation that looks like a 2-floor resident house being re-purposed as a lodge. It is next to a restaurant named Restoran Bayu Kinabalu. If you want to cook your own food, BBQ and kitchen facilities are available.


(Photo Source: Website of Bayu Kinabalu Lodge)

Website: bayukinabalulodge.blogspot.com
Tel: +60 88-889693, +60 13-8532145, +60 14-8608688

3. Ayana Holiday Resort

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 680 Meters (≈0.42 Mile)
Rates: RM88 to RM128 per room (US$≈25-37), RM608 per House (US$≈173) (online booking available)
Room Types: Standard (Queen bed for 2 pax), Deluxe (Queen bed for 2 pax), Superior (1 Queen bed & 1 Single bed), Holiday House (1-storey, 3 bedrooms & bathrooms)


Ayana Holiday Resort is relatively new but you will love its forest view and natural surrounding. It’s a mid-range accommodation that offers clean and affordable rooms and holiday house that target friend and family groups. Their weekday rates are irresistible deals with nearly 50% off.


Website: www.ayanaholidayresort.com
Facebook: AyanaHolidayResort
E-mail:
Tel: +60 14-6636636

4. D’Villa Rina Ria Lodge

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 750 Meters (≈0.47 Mile)
Rates: RM30/bed to RM220/room (US$≈9-66) (online booking available)
Room Types: Dormitory Bunk Bed (12 pax), Queen-bed / Triple-bed Room, Family Rooms (4-6 pax)


D’Villa Rina Ria Lodge operates since 1992 and quite established. Besides rooms, guests can find almost everything they need, for example, mini shop, restaurant (serve no pork), parking, hot shower, laundry service, TV, BBQ & steamboat, free Wifi and free storage room (for in-house guests).

Facebook: DvillaRinaRiaLodge
E-mail: booking.dvilla@gmail.com
Tel: +60 88 889282, +60 13-850 0080

5. Mount Kinabalu Holiday Home (Haleluyah Retreat Centre)

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 1.3 Km (≈0.81 Mile)
Rates: RM20/bed to RM180/chalet (US$≈6-54) (online booking available)
Room Types: 5-bed Dormitory, Family Room (3 pax), Chalet (5-6 pax)


If you like kampung (village) lifestyle with green view, Mount Kinabalu Holiday Home is it. You will be greeted by friendly village dogs upon arrival. The place is big, with garden, fish pond, ballroom (hall) and wonderful view of Kiau Valley a distance away. Facilities and services such as laundry service / dry cleaning, free Wifi, kitchen and room service are available. They also provide transport to airport.


Facebook: mountkinabalu.home
E-mail: ,
Tel: +60 12-8480833

6. Ceaser’s Place

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 1.5 Km (≈0.93 Mile)
Rates: RM180-200 per studio, RM250 per chalet (US$≈54-75)
Room Types: Studio Unit, Chalet


(Photo Source: Facebook of Ceaser’s Place)

In general, their studio unit has 1 or 2 bathroom, shared / private bathroom, kitchenette, living area and Cable TV. The chalet has two rooms with queen-sized bed and attached bathroom (without kitchen). You may look at the photos and details in their Facebook.


(Photo Source: Facebook of Ceaser’s Place)

Facebook: Ceasers-Place
E-mail:
Tel: +60 88-888343

7. Fairy Garden Resort

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 1.7 Km (≈1.06 Mile)
Rates: RM80-130 per room (US$≈24-39)
Tel: +60 88-889688


Fairy Garden Resort is next to the main road and has 32 rooms. The following are their room types:

  • Queen-sized bed room @ RM80
  • Single-bed room @ RM80/room
  • 1 Queen-sized bed + 1 single bed room @ RM80/room
  • Family: 1 queen-sized bed + 1 single bed + 1 double-decker @ RM110/room
  • Family: 1 queen-sized bed + 2 single beds room@ RM110/room
  • Biggest Room: 2 queen-sized beds + 1 double decker @ RM130/room


Fairy Garden Resort is famous for thier big restaurant in ground floor, which serves great food and able to host a function for over 100 people.

8. Puncak Borneo Resort

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 1.7 Km (≈1.06 Mile)
Rates: RM35/bed to RM180/room (US$≈10-54) (online booking available)
Room Types: Dormitory (3 bunk beds), Single-bed / Double-bed / Queen-bed / Family / Deluxe Rooms
Website: puncakborneoresort.blogspot.com (unofficial)
E-mail: ,
Tel: +60 88-889699


Puncak Borneo Resort is relatively new and it’s located on a slope next to main road, a high point where their guests can have a stunning view of Mt. Kinabalu. Its building with Bajau-style roof is quite unique so you won’t miss it when you drive to Kinabalu Park.

9. Nikgold Garden Resort

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 1.9 Km (≈1.18 Mile)
Rates: RM98/room to RM750/bungalow (US$≈30-227) (online booking available)
Room Types: Twin Share / Queen-Bed / King-Bed / Deluxe Room, 3-Bedroom Family Suite, Semi-D House, Bungalow


(Photo Source: Facebook of Nikgold Garden)

In contrast to most accommodations near Kinabalu Park, Nikgold Garden Resort is on deluxe side. If weather permits, you can have a spectacular view of Mt. Kinabalu and its forest at this resort. It’s so quiet that honeymoon couples will find a lot of space and privacy here. If you don’t travel by car, you have to walk 1 KM from its junction next to main road to this resort, possible but taxing. This resort has no restaurant but you can bring your own food and charcoal to barbecue there.


Facebook: NikgoldGarden
Tel: +60 88-888112, +60 19-8426228

10. Kinabalu Mountain Lodge

Distance from Kinabalu Park: 2 Km (≈1.24 Mile)
Rates: RM38/bed to RM180/room (US$≈11.50-54) (online booking available)


Below are the room types of Kinabalu Mountain Lodge in general:

  • Dormitory (10 beds) @ RM38/bed
  • Double-bed room @ RM110/room
  • Japanese room (4 pax) @ RM150/room
  • Family room (4 pax) @ RM180/room

Facilities: common bathroom & toilet, BBQ, steamboat (for rent @RM20), kitchen, hot water


Personally I love this lodge because the exterior and interior of its 3-storey wooden house is so beautiful. It’s definitely on my recommended accommodation in this article if it is nearer to Kinabalu Park. Same as Nikgold Garden Resort, Kinabalu Mountain Lodge is located 1 KM away from main road. Located inside the dense forest, this lodge is more “nature” than the accommodation inside Kinabalu Park. Nature lovers will like this place very much.

Facebook: Kinabalu-Mountain-Lodge
E-mail:
Tel: +60 16-8104909

11. Kinabalu Rose Cabin

Chinese Name: 天山酒店
Distance from Kinabalu Park: 2 Km (≈1.30 Mile)
Rates: RM70-200 per room (US$≈21-60) (online booking available)
Room Types: Twin-bed / Queen-bed / Family Rooms


(Photo Source: Facebook of Kinabalu Rose Cabin)

Kinabalu Rose Cabin is a mid-range hotel which is very popular among locals and tourists. Its highlight is the magnificent close-up view of Mt. Kinabalu behind this hotel. Though it calls itself a “cabin”, Kinabalu Rose Cabin is as developed as a small hotel, just to list some facilities, restaurant (serve no pork), gift shop, convenient store, free Wifi, meeting room (can host up to 60 people).


(Photo Source: Facebook of Kinabalu Rose Cabin)

Facebook: Rosecabin
E-mail:
Tel: +60 88-889233

Most accommodation listed here are located next to main road to Kundasang Town, you can reach them by long-distance bus. Just 3 final notes: (1) Most accommodations are small and can be fully booked even in non-peak season, so please book earlier, (2) Wifi is generally very slow around Kinabalu Park, so don’t use Wifi service as a deciding factor to choose your accommodation, and (3) the temperature around Kinabalu Park is quite cooling (about 18°C to 25°C), so air-conditioning isn’t required.

I would like to stress again that this list is only for accommodations located within 2 Km radius of Kinabalu Park. There are many other quality accommodations that worth a mention, and I’ll feature them in future.

► More Accommodations around Kinabalu Park


For this article, I visited most of the accommodations listed here to verify they are still in operation. Seems like almost every lodge has one or two super friendly cats or dogs. It became a “petting” trip too. Just can’t help it. They are too adorable. 😀

Photos taken in Kundasang, Sabah, Malaysia

Little Hut, home sweet home in Mesilau

Travelers always look for good attractions to visit and nice food to eat. After the tour, we all need a great place to stay. It is cool to be served by 5-star hotel but I prefer accommodation with nice surrounding. For me, Little Hut of Mesilau is special, not just because of its cooling temperature of 13-30°C (55-86°F) and spectacular view of Mt. Kinabalu, its homely atmosphere is something unique in homestay of Sabah.


Located at 1,460 Metres above sea level, Little Hut is only 12 KM away from Kinabalu Park and 3 KM from Mesilau Park, a convenient spot for me to stay a night and to enjoy the refreshing air far away from bustling Kota Kinabalu City (KK).


Pic: at the left is my hut (named Incredible Hut)

I checked into my chalet at 8pm and spent a night in Incredible Hut, a small house that have 3 beds and the only hut without kitchen. The tungsten light of the house looked warm and comfy from outside in the cold and windy evening, I really couldn’t wait to get in.


Pic: ground floor of Incredible Hut

After I collected the key from their staff, the 2-storey chalet was all mine. It’s like living in your own house, no room service that reminds you are an outsider. You would appreciate the sense of belonging and freedom here.


Pic: Incredible Hut has one bed in ground floor and two on top floor.

The space in Incredible Hut isn’t spacious, just nice for medium size Asian like me. If you are almost as big as Incredible Hulk, you may not be able to move so freely. Please note they have bigger chalets and I only show the photos of the smaller hut.


Mesilau is cool at night but not down to freezing point. The feeling is like being inside an office with strong air-conditioning. Putting on a jacket or fleece is enough to keep you warm. There is no heater (and not necessary) in house. Don’t worry, hot water shower is available.


The interior is simple and decorated with interesting ornaments. Each chalet has TV (with Astro satellite TV) and DVDs to kill your time. But the best activity to do here is to eat some hot stuffs in cold evening together with your friends and family, e.g. BBQ or steamboat. Little Hut can rent you the equipment but you need to bring your own food, which is readily available in Kundasang town only 6 KM away.


Pic: guess what is inside the treasure chest?


Pic: Toilet paper, shower gel and shampoo are provided. You need to bring your own towel and toothpaste.

Poetic Dream Houses

I had a very good night sleep in Little Hut. When everything lit up by the sunrise, I started to see the beauty of Little Hut. Seem like they “gardenize and villagize” every corner to give an idyllic and nostalgia touch to their place. They also insert some humorous elements for you to discover here and there.


Pic: Little Hut in the morning


The morning view of Mt. Kinabalu is a pleasant surprise. I didn’t know I could see it from Little Hut.


Pic: the view of Mt. Kinabalu and Little Hut. Note the small farm in foreground.


Pic: The little farm + garden in Little Hut is planted with variety of vegetables and flowers such as roses and spring onions. Housewives find this farm intriguing and are excited to tell their children what are those plant.

If I show the photos above to others without saying the location, most would think these are taken in countryside of European countries.


Pic: balcony of Hut Attack


Pic: village and farm view from the balcony


Pic: funny direction signages just to make you smile.


Pic: backyard of Little Hut


Hey, come and meet Miyao, the chubby and friendly 3-color cat of Little Hut. She acts like the owner of Little Hut and loves to hang out with people.


Pic: The Cat Residence. Miyao also has her own Little Hut, but she always looks for a chance to sneak into your hut, probably she enjoys the warm cuddling offered by the guests.


Pic: Miyao lazes around and as relax as the guests.


Little Hut is in Kampung Mesilou Village and surrounded by village houses.


You can take a stroll around the village, a friendly neighbourhood where you can explore around and say Hi to the locals.


Pic: the plantation in village. The property of Sabah city is super expensive nowadays, so I’m kind of envious of the big land they have here. I believe that’s the concept of Little Hut, which allows city people to experience the peaceful rural life once in a while.

The Chalets

Little Hut has a total of 5 chalets, each with different size, theme and amenities, so it’s important that you select the right hut prior to booking. You can visit their website for more photos and details.


Pic: from left: Unbreak My Hut, Incredible Hut, Bizza Hut, Hut Attack. Not seen in this photo is Hut Leluyaa, which is behind Bizza Hut.


Pic: Little Hut uses pun for naming their huts. The names are just for fun and don’t mean anything, so don’t be serious about them.

The following table is a summary of the chalets for your quick reference:

Hut Rate (per day per hut) Remarks
Incredible Hut Mon-Fri: RM150 (≈US$42)

Weekends, Holiday*: RM180 (≈US$50)

Accommodate up to 3 people, suitable for small group of friends and family. No kitchen
Bizza Hut Mon-Fri: RM250 (≈US$70)

Weekends, Holiday*: RM300 (≈US$83)

Accommodate up to 5 people, suitable for family and group of friends. Kitchen available. Good viewpoint for Mt. Kinabalu
Unbreak My Hut Mon-Fri: RM150 (≈US$42)

Weekends, Holiday*: RM180 (≈US$50)

Accommodate up to 2 to 3 people, suitable for couple. Blue & white Greece theme. Kitchen available.
Hut Attack Mon-Fri: RM280 (≈US$78)

Weekends, Holiday*: RM330 (≈US$92)

Accommodate up to 5 people. Kitchen available. View of Kg. Mesilou village and mountain range
Hut Leluyaa Mon-Fri: RM210 (≈US$58)

Weekends, Holiday*: RM250 (≈US$70)

Accommodate up to 2 to 3 people, suitable for couple. Kitchen available. Farm and village view

Rate as of Feb 2015. Please visit their website for latest rate and updated details.
*Public Holiday & School Holiday

Though Little Hut has no restaurant, most chalets have a kitchen with cooking utensils for you to cook, or you can rent BBQ rack and steamboat from them (food not provided).

Contact & Booking

You can book the accommodation with Little Hut up to 6 months in advance by e-mail or phone. You need to pay 50% deposit to secure your booking. The chalets could be full during peak season so it’s better to book earlier.


Tel: +60 16-8601416 (9am-8pm)
E-mail: littlehutmesilou@gmail.com / shiaohan@hotmail.com
Website: littlehutmesilou.blogspot.com
Facebook: mesilou
GPS Coordinates: N 6.014536° E 116.599023° (see Location Map)

Getting there

Little Hut is in Kampung Mesilou Village, about 100 KM away from KK (see Location Map). There is no bus going directly to Little Hut, so you need to get there using your own car or hire a taxi at Kundasang town. Most of the time you will drive on paved asphalt road until you reach Kampung Mesilou. After the village, turn to the 3rd junction at the left (which has two tyres as marker), then you have to drive carefully on the narrow concrete road, which you will reach Little Hut near the end (estimated 600 Meters).

I strongly advise you to go there during daytime so you can see the small road or signages clearly. If your car has low body and you can’t see the road clearly in the dark, the bottom of your car would hit the big rocks. You can find detail picture guide and map in their website and Facebook.

Photos taken in Mesilau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo