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Aura Montoria, the Rock Garden of Mount Kinabalu

Aura Montoria is touted as one of Sabah’s top hiking spots, and after experiencing it firsthand, I don’t think it’s overrated. Hiking here offers an incredible opportunity to immerse in Borneo’s diverse landscapes. Beyond a mere walk, it’s an exciting exploration of caves, rock formations, rivers, waterfalls, ponds, and lush rainforests—truly a collection of natural wonders waiting to be discovered.

You like the element of soil, rock, water or wood? You can enjoy all these nature wonders in Aura Montoria.

About Aura Montoria

You might know about the Kinabalu Park HQ situated on Mount Kinabalu‘s southern side, easily reachable from Kundasang. However, tucked behind Malaysia’s highest peak lies Aura Montoria to the north, an enchanting hilly terrain located in Kampung Sayap (Kampung means Village) of Kota Belud, and part of the 4,750 km² Kinabalu UNESCO Global Geopark. It’s just a stone’s throw away from the Sayap Substation, snugly positioned on the west side of Kinabalu Park.

The cavities in sandstone structure create many natural caves and ponds in Aura Montoria

Aura Montoria owes its name to a winding tree vine known as Pokok Ponoriawon by the Dusun Tindal people. This vine, adorned with long thorns, grows along the riverbank, drawing a variety of birds during its flowering season. The locals named the area Montoria, a shortened version of Pokok Ponoriawon. Enchanted by its beauty, they added “Aura” to create Aura Montoria, capturing the site’s radiant charm.

Aura Montoria is rich in flora too, e.g. begonia, bark-less eucalyptus tree, jewel orchid, and tampoi fruit in this picture

A Geotourism Destination

Couples always promise to each other, “I will love you to the time of the seas run dry and the rocks crumble,” as if such changes are impossible. But Aura Montoria will prove them wrong. Here, among the rolling hills and rock fragments, you’ll find evidence of a time when this land lay beneath the sea, some 20 million years ago. The geological morphology of the Aura Montoria is mainly featured by sedimentary rocks from the Crocker Formation, formed in a deep-sea basin during the middle Oligocene to early Miocene period, roughly 28 to 23 million years ago.

Aura Montoria was under the sea more than 20 million years ago

Around 17 to 10 million years ago, a tectonic collision uplifted most parts of Sabah, including Aura Montoria. This followed by geological processes like folding and faulting, raising the sandstones and shales of Aura Montoria’s sedimentary layers to the surface. Over millions of years, erosion and compaction shaped these deposits, forming the striking ridges, valleys, and unique rock formations that grace Aura Montoria today.

The landscape of Aura Montoria is dominated by sedimentary rocks such as sandstones, shales, and conglomerate that were deposited in the ancient seabed more than 20 million years ago. They look like compacted rocks glued by cement.

Granite boulders and rock walls dot this area, likely carried by glaciers from Mount Kinabalu to the foothills near Aura Montoria. Therefore, hikers will find fascination in the remnants of an ancient ocean floor and traces from the Pleistocene Ice Age, dating back millions of years.

Starting point of hiking in Aura Montoria. The 6-km trail takes about 6 hours to finish (include lunch and break)

Hiking (A Walk-Through)

The hiking trail spans a 6-kilometer loop, winding through varied and uneven terrain where the flowing rivers and waterfalls shower you with negative ions, the forest fills your lungs with fresh air, and sunlight provides a serotonin boost. All these combine to energize you and uplift your mood. Given the prevalent depression among younger generations, it’s no surprise that hashtags like silent walking, soft hiking, and rucking are trending in the Gen Z community. Visit Aura Montoria, I would advise them.

The hike typically lasts around 6 hours at a leisurely pace. The trail poses a moderate challenge to beginners, involving some scrambling and balancing over rocks and roots along slopes situated between 200 to 400 meters above sea level. While leeches aren’t commonly encountered, parts of the trail can be slippery, making sturdy hiking shoes crucial. Carrying mosquito repellent is essential for a more comfortable hike.

Briefing by our guide, Kunan, at the registration hut before the hike. There are a few simple toilets. You can change your cloth and take a shower there after the hike.

We met our guides (Kunan and Kiwi) at the registration hut inside a village plantation, for a short briefing before our hike began at 8:30 am (finishing around 2:30 pm). The first part of the trail is a pleasant one-kilometre walk through the countryside. In just 15 minutes, we passed through rubber and pineapple plantations and made our way downhill to a resting hut by the river, which is where the loop trail starts and ends.

Hanging Bridge

As we crossed the suspension bridge, I was impressed by the pristine river underneath, a tributary of the Wariu River that eventually merges with the Kadamaian River downstream—this is one of Kota Belud’s biggest rivers. Reports indicate it’s a class I river in terms of water quality, and rich in oxygen. It’s a refreshing spot, with temperatures hovering around a cool 25-27°C, perfect for a revitalizing shower after a lengthy hike.

Left: the hut is the starting point of the loop trail. Right: the river under suspension bridge is a great spot to take shower after a long hike

Lion Rock (Batu Gung-Gung Cha)

Following a brief ascent over a small hill known as the “Path of One Thousand Steps,” we encountered the first marvel: the Lion Rock. Locally referred to as Batu Gung-Gung Cha (Batu means Rock), this rock formation likely earned its name due to its resemblance to a lion and its association with the resounding tones of gongs and cymbals.

Tree Hole (Pokok Tomboilik)

As the deafening chirps of cicadas and the lively calls of birds surrounded us, it was evident we’d ventured into the jungle—a regenerated secondary rainforest in good condition, thanks to the dense canopy providing ample shade that shields us from the sun. A highlight of the trek was squeezing through a tree hole in a giant tree known as Pokok Tomboilik. Just a heads-up, if you’re a bigger person with a hefty backpack, you might get stuck in the hole.

Left: passing through a big tree hole. Right: The Mouth Cave looks like a dinosaur head from this angle

Mouth Cave (Gua Mulut)

Our next destination was quite a sight—a massive overhanging cave resembling the head of a dinosaur when seen from a certain angle. This cave is just one of many hidden within the area, adding to its allure as a fascinating geological site boasting various cave formations.

Gua Mulut (Mouth Cave) is an overhanging cave that resembles a big mouth

Natural Spring Water (Waig Minorol)

Close to the Mouth Cave, there are freshwater springs with water oozing out of the rocks. The sandstone, which is an excellent aquifer due to its high porosity and permeability, functions as groundwater reservoir that never run dry even during dry spells. I had a sip, and the mineral-rich water tasted wonderfully fresh, cool, and clean—no strange odors at all.

The spring water from the sandstone never dries up even during drought

Wongking Cave

Along the trail, we encountered stunning rock walls formed from conglomerate—a mix of sedimentary rocks in various sizes and shapes glued together by finer materials such as sand, silt, or clay. Some of these formations were covered with epiliths such as white mold and green mosses, adding to their beauty.

Descending into the depths, we ventured into the dark Wongking Cave. With our guides leading the way, both ahead and behind us, we felt safe exploring the underground cave. Don’t forget to bring a LED headlamp or flashlight for your caving adventure.

Rock Pond (Liogu Ourod)

This is the highlight I was most excited about. The oval-shaped rock pond is fed by a mountain stream and takes on a mesmerizing emerald hue when sunlight dances upon its surface. It resembles the mythical magic pool believed to restore youth to those who drink or bathe in its waters. Be careful when you move around there because the rock surface is very slippery.

Liogu Ourod, the natural rock pond filled with mountain water

Bat Cave (Gua Pungit)

Venturing into another mountain cave, we discovered a stream flowing within. Natural light poured in through the cave’s opening on top, which also served as an entrance and exit for its inhabitants, like bats. Making the exploration easier, there were ropes and ladders available to facilitate movement in and out of the cave.

Waterfall Cave (Wasai ID Gua)

Each cave here holds its own surprises, and this one didn’t disappoint, featuring a hidden waterfall. No matter how scorching the day, this cooling cave provides the perfect refuge. With numerous caves and pristine water sources, I can’t help but wonder if cavemen once called this place home. To top it off, this cave even boasts a pond teeming with fishes.

Waterfall in a cave. There are many fishes in the pond. You can bring some pellets to feed them.

Lookout Point (Pogimpaan Ko-Duo)

Ok enough with dark caves, next we ascended higher ground where a viewpoint platform awaited. The sight of the lush forest and rolling hills was simply breathtaking. The gentle breeze was incredibly calming, prompting us to pause for a snack break on the wooden platform. It’s about 11am so we were a bit hungry.

Climbing to the lookout point on the hill. The trail is quite steep.

Marathon Trail via Rock Walls

Following a short rest, we headed down to the valley, tracing our path alongside rock walls. Among the rugged conglomerate formations, I spotted creamy rock walls composed of granite. These walls, formed from solidified molten rock that intruded into the ancient sediments, serve as reminders of tectonic activities here.

Sandstone and granite rock walls of Aura Montoria

Riverside Camp

Finally, we reached the camp next to a tranquil river with a rocky bed, where we indulged in linopot lunch (rice wrapped in leaves). A few unique butterflies, including the iconic Rajah Birdwing, fluttered about the riverbank. This spot offers camping, swimming, and tubing activities, and you can throw a BBQ party.

River campsite and linopot (rice wrapped in leaf). Basic camping amenities such as tables and toilets are available here.

Nature enthusiasts will find themselves captivated by Aura Montoria’s diverse landscapes. Keep an eye out for its rich flora, such as begonias and orchids, which are among the highlights. While most people relaxed at the camp, some enjoyed a free fish massage from the docile mahseer (Local Name: Ikan Kelah).

The river and mahseer fishes (Species: *Tor duoronensis*) at the campsite

Green Lake (Liogu Otomou)

The adventure isn’t quite done yet! Our final destination is the Green Lake, a serene pond embraced by whitish boulders, with a depth of about 10 feet. For those seeking an extra adrenaline rush at the tail end of a long hike, you can take a leap into the river from higher ground nearby.

Liogu Otomou, a green lake-like river zone enclosed by rocky riverbank

How to Get There

Aura Montoria (see Location Map) is situated in Kampung Sayap, approximately 26 kilometers from Kota Belud, famously known as the Cowboy Town of Sabah. The journey from Kota Kinabalu City (KK) to Kota Belud, around an hour by car, is easily accessible via highways and paved roads. However, the 27-kilometer stretch from Kota Belud to Aura Montoria is predominantly gravel and dirt roads, making a 4-wheel-drive preferable as it can be challenging for sedan or saloon cars to traverse.

Fruit stall at the roadside of Kampung Sayap. You would find durian and tarap during fruiting season.

If you’re traveling from KK, expect a journey of over two hours. During the durian fruiting season (around August and September), if you’re a durian lover, plan for additional travel time as you might be tempted to stop in Kampung Sayap to shop for cheap durian, pineapples, and tarap. Hence, staying overnight in a nearby homestay like Porohon Garden Lodge is highly recommended. This way, you can avoid the rush and enjoy a leisurely start to your adventure without the need for a long early morning drive.

About Kampung Sayap

The majority of Kampung Sayap’s population comprises the Dusun Tindal community, mainly engaged in farming activities. Originally known as Kampung Minangkob, the name translates to “valley surrounded by hills.” Many years ago, a British military officer visited the village, he rested by a river that was nearly covered with dry leaves because of the drought that time.

Dog and cat of Kampung Sayap. In the photos are Si Putih (dog) and Stim (cat), they love durian. Here are the proof of Si Putih and Stim eating durians (click the links for video)

Then the British asked a villager, “what is the word for dry leaves in Dusun language?” The villager replied that it was “sahap” (dry leaves). Unfortunately, the officer misheard sahap as sayap (which means wings in English) and document it in his diary. Due to that incident, Kampung Minangkob was renamed to Kampung Sayap.

A friendly villager and her dog on the way to their farm in a lovely morning. Note the traditional wakid bamboo baskets in the car and the durian plantation behind them.

Fees and Contacts

The half-day, 6-kilometer hiking tour is priced at RM35 per person for locals and RM80 per person for non-Malaysians. For a group of up to 5 people, the guide fee per group is RM50 for locals and RM100 for non-Malaysians. Food is not included in the cost (but available as an add-on). If needed, you can hire a porter at a rate of RM5 per kilogram to carry your belongings.

Butterflies at the river of Aura Montoria. Left: *Terinos clarissa praestigiosa*, Right: Bornean Straight Pierrot (*Caleta manovus*)

A local guide is mandatory for hiking in Aura Montoria. To inquire about updated rates or book a hiking trip in Aura Montoria, you can contact the operator through the following channels:
Phone (Whatsapp): +60-136262793 (Madam Sandra Idiam), +60-189650079 (Madam Rina Maratun)
Facebook: Aura Montoria Eko-Edu Tourism Kg Sayap Kota Belud Sabah

Things to Bring

Having the following items handy will ensure a more comfortable and enjoyable hiking experience at Aura Montoria! The most important of all is to wear the right hiking gear: quick-dry clothes and good hiking shoes.

Backpack
Drinking Water
Raincoat / Poncho
Insect Repellent
Sunblock Lotion / Spray
Snacks / Energy Bar
Swimwear / Sarong
Extra clothing and towel
Hiking pole
Plastic Bag for soiled clothing
Cash
Optional: dry bag, portable power bank, hat

You can rent walking sticks, swimming goggles, Adidas Kampung (waterproof rubber shoes for hiking) for a small fee.

Walking sticks and Adidas Kampung shoes for rent. Adidas Kampung is made of rubber and waterproof, it’s the favourite hiking shoes of locals because it works well on muddy and slippery ground.

Special thanks to Puan Rina Maratun for sharing the backstories of Aura Montoria and Kampung Sayap. I also refer to the book “A Scientific Journey Through Borneo; Sayap-Kinabalu Park Sabah” written by ISMAIL, Ghazally; BIN DIN, Laily and published in 1995.

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Pungiton Cave, a gift from fairy

The Discovery of Pungiton Cave

More than 50 years ago, the young Aki Korom was sleeping near the river with a few friends. In his dream, a tall man approached him and said, “come, let me show you something interesting.” Aki Korom followed him and they reached a large cave. The fairy said, “if you can find this cave, it’s yours to own.” He added, “however, there is a dragon guardian looks after this cave. You must not cause a ripple in the river when you go to the cave, or you will awaken the lurking dragon.” Aki Korom waked up and felt the dream was so real. His friends didn’t have the same dream though.

Boat transfer to Pungiton Camp from Labang Village in Sapulut

Aki Korom believed in what he dreamed and decided to locate the hidden cave. He went with a boat. A big log in the river was blocking his way. He remembered what the tall man taught, so he dragged the boat to move pass it quietly, without disturbing the dragon in the water. After some search in the forest, he found the limestone cave, which is the Pungiton Cave today. The cave was abundant with edible bird nests and big mushroom!

Pungiton Cave is named after bats, which are abundant inside the cave. But no Batman in this batcave.

Pungiton means bat in Murut language because this cave has a lot of bats. Pungiton Cave is still a secretive cave even after half a century of its discovery. Though its location is no longer a secret, nobody is able to reach the end of this cave, according to some villagers who have spent two or three days exploring deep in the cave before. Some say Pungiton Cave may link to another cave system on the opposite side of the hill. Instead of two days, I spent only 2 hours to explore Pungiton Cave but already impressed by its rich variety of cave features.

Pungiton Cave is like an isolated temple frozen in time. Cave always appears in adventure and horror stories. More than half of the windfall treasures in movies are found in a cave.

Aki Korom had a big heart. He was willing to share the cave with other villagers. He also turned down an offer by a mining company that wanted to quarry the limestone. I guess that’s why the fairy chose him.

You can watch this 4-minute video to hear and see everything in motions.

Overall, Pungiton Cave is a pristine and marvelous cave to explore. The caving experience there is 100% nature and you can check out various interesting rock formations closely. No creepy bug crawling all over the cave and no foul smell. Majority of the trail is soil ground or uneven surface scattered with debris, not difficult for beginners to walk on. The only so-called challenging part is climbing up a 20-feet slope with a rope.

Left: me exploring Pungiton Cave in the dark. Right: Flowstones, sheets of calcium carbonate on the cave walls

Pungiton Cave is a multi-levelled limestone cave. Hiring a guide is a must so you won’t lose your way in the cave. We start by exploring the wet cave in lower level then move up to the dry cave. It takes only 15 to 20 minutes to walk to the cave entrance from our camp (Pungiton Camp).

Underground Water Cave

At the the cave entrance, I already can hear the running water below. It’s a 20-meter descend via a narrow hole. The sound of water is getting louder, then we reach a winding cave tunnel with a running stream, a characteristics of aquatic or wet cave. Walking in the long and narrow tunnel in a wet cave is like navigating inside the body of a giant snake.

Hiking 15 minutes to the Pungiton Cave in tropical rainforest. I see many limestones along the trail. Leech may present.

Don’t freak out with the idea of walking in a cave filled with water. In normal days, the water in Pungiton Cave only reaches my knee at most. The deepest it can go is up to waist level during rainy season. The guides would skip the wet cave if the cave is too flooded. We wear a helmet to protect our heads, in case we fall on a rock or bump into rock ceiling.

Entrance to Pungiton Cave. From left: Rosdin and Josyen (guides), Ms Wong Li Pin (media)

Slowly my eyes adjust to the darkness. We walk along the stream between the whitish walls of limestone. The water is quite clear and shallow. We avoid stepping into the murky water that may have a hole underneath. To keep dry, we try to walk along the edge of the stream, but I would occasionally soak my feet to enjoy the cooling water. The running water creates a noticeable cool air flow as if the cave is breathing.

Wet cave of Pungiton Cave. Note the scalloped wall at the right with ripple pattern, an ancient mark of the water movement.

The stream is weak and small, but if you did pay attention in your geography class during high school, you would know that the limestone cave is a work of water. The rainwater absorbs CO₂ in the atmosphere and forms a mildly acidic water. This water flows through the limestone and slowly erodes the rocks. Over million of years, continual water or seepage craves out a hole, next a cavity, and then a cave. Pungiton Cave is probably about 20 millions years ago. It’s not officially studied and mapped by any geologist yet, so this number is just a wild guess.

Long underground water tunnel of Pungiton Cave. It’s about 400 Meters long and flows deep into the cave.

On the roof and wall of the wet cave are many round dents or depressions in rippled pattern, these ancient traces of water movement provide some hints on the direction and speed of water flow in passages in the past.

The running stream in the wet cave of Pungiton Cave. Cave with creeks, groundwater, or springs are known as aquatic or wet caves.

A powerful torch will improve your caving experience. Thanks to my new flashlight (Max Output: 2,100 Lumens), its light beam is so bright that it lit up the surrounding. This allows me to take better cave photos in dim environment.

Limestone Art in Pungiton Cave

Half an hour later, we climb up to the dry surface, where the cave starts to get more interesting. I see many natural sculptures created by water, which must have taken thousand of years to form. Basically it’s a gallery of timeless water art.

A U-shaped rock formation near the end of wet cave

The ceiling height of Pungiton Cave is about 3 to 12 Meters most of the time. The space is wide enough not to trigger any claustrophobia. There is no boardwalk, only ropes and ladder are available for hard to climb sections. Along the way I see many holes, opening, junctions and gaps that probably connect to other chambers or network. Without a guide, I would lose my way.

Who knows you might find Japanese treasure here, or hear boss music playing. 😀

In the past, there were many taboos to visit Pungiton Cave, for example, you should not wear red. Now the cave is an attraction opens to tourists, and many old rules aren’t relevant anymore. However, please be respectful and don’t do or say anything offensive in the cave. The locals believe that there are spirits lingering in the cave, and they dislike to be disturbed.

Variety of “limestone art” in Pungiton Cave

A BIG NO-NO is touching the rock formations, especially stalagmites and stalactites. Most of them are still growing at a rate of 0.13 mm (0.0051 inches) a year. They would turn dark and stop growing if contaminated by acidic oil from our fingers. Watch your steps too. One foot of stalagmite would need over 2,000 years to grow, but we can destroy it in a split second.

Big vs Small Stalagmites. The term stalagmite comes from the Greek word *stalagma*, which means “dripping”.

One thing I really admire Pungiton Cave is the diversity of cave features. Of course this cave is not as gigantic as those in the famous Mulu National Park. But it’s not short of wonders. The following are some interesting and peculiar cave features that I find in Pungiton Cave.

Left: the cave looks like the throat of a dragon. Right: the limestone in flesh color.

Stalagmites and stalactites are the most well-known cave features. They are icicle-shaped deposits that form when water dissolves limestone, and drips through cave roofs and onto the floors. The re-deposits calcium carbonate gradually builds up and grows on the ceilings or floors and become mound-shaped rock formation that called stalactites and stalagmites respectively.

The magnificent stalagmites and stalactites of Pungiton Cave. A column is forming in the middle section.

When the upward-growing stalagmites meet and connect with the downward-growing stalactites in the middle, they eventually fuse and form a column, and some columns look like carved pillars.

A mushroom-like rock. I don’t what’s the name of such formation.

Flowstones are sheets of calcium carbonate on the walls or floor of a cave formed from a gradual flow of water over a relatively broad area along cave wall. The final form are curtain-like sheaves along ledges, better known as draperies.

Flowstones formed from a gradual flow of water over a relatively broad area along cave wall.

There are also some strange, branch-like helictites that grows in a twisted, curled fashion, as a result of minimal water seepage.

A rock that looks like the thumbs-up Like of Facebook

Rimstone dams form along floors where calcite-rich water continues to flow over the edge of the pools.

Rimstone dams are formed by overflowing calcite-rich water from the pools.

Near the exit there is a wide chamber with wind movement. I can vaguely hear something that sounds like whispering. But there are no other people around or outside. You may watch my video to hear the strange noise.

Limestone consists of coral and marine fossils, which can be as old as 40 million years.

Interesting Fauna in Pungiton Cave

Cave is a dark world but not lifeless. Some animals use darkness as a protection and choose cave as their habitats. The most common dweller of cave is bat. They say the bats in Pungiton Cave is larger and screech like monkey, and the locals eat them.

Left: hatchling and eggs of cave swiftlet. Right: cave cricket

Swiftlets also live here, among them is edible-nest swiftlet, which builds nest in the cave. These swiftlets can use echo-location like bats, to help them navigate deeper into the cave. Edible bird nest is an expensive delicate, so their nests are harvested heavily and very few of them left.

Bugs in Pungiton Cave. From left: Cave Centipede, Unknown Millipedes, large Huntsman Spider with egg sack

We come across a few mass of guano under the congregating bats, it’s a mixture of dropping of bats and birds. Sometimes guano can accumulate to a few feet deep over a long period. I walk on them and it feels like stepping on a soft carpet. It has mild ammonia smell. Cockroaches like to feed on guano but I only see one here. Guano is an excellent fertilizer because it’s rich in nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium, and some people get rich by selling guano.

Left: bats on the roof of Pungiton Cave. They are everywhere. Right: thousand-year-old rock formation

If Pungiton Cave is managed sustainably since the beginning, edible bird nests and guano would generate continuous cashflow for the villagers until today. Unfortunately, half a century ago, people didn’t realize the importance of conservation. Anyway, the cave itself is an eco-treasure and quite well-preserved.

I see some leggy cave centipedes on the rock wall, they run for shelter in the dark whenever my light points at them. Other bugs I see are the silky thread traps of glow worms, egg-eating cave cricket, and a huge Huntsman spider hugging an egg sack.

Pungiton Camp

To perfect your caving experience, you can spend a night or two at Pungiton Camp, a longhouse style accommodation near Labang River. Pungiton Cave is only a 15-minute walk away from the camp. After the adventure, you can have a nice meal and shower at the camp. If it’s new moon, you would see Milky Way on the starry sky. The place is warm during daytime but getting cooler in late night.

Pungiton Camp can accommodate about 20 people and is equipped with canvas beds (with mosquito net), bathroom (hot shower available!), toilet, and dining area. The sleeping area is an open and corridor-like layout with beds. Electricity is available from evening to early morning, but the power point is only available at dining area.

Beds of Pungiton Camp. Blanket, pillow, towel and step stool are provided.

How to Get There

Pungiton Cave is located in Sapulut, a small district of Sabah interior about 110 KM away from Keningau town and 217 KM away from Kota Kinabalu City. Sapulut is accessible by highway between Keningau and Tawau (part of Pan-Borneo Highway).

Location map of Sapulot and its surrounding

To visit Pungiton Cave, you can contact Borneo Outback Tours Sdn Bhd (Licenses: Co. No. 846369-H / KPK / LN:9247). They will arrange the land & boat transfer and accommodation (Pungiton Camp) for you.
Website: www.borneo.tours
Facebook: orou.sapulot
Instagram: @orousapulot
Phone: +60 19 2277077 (Whatsapp), +60 87 337 277
Address: A-7-2, Apollo Atrium, 89008 Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia

Kampung Labang (village) of Sapulut, the starting point of the boat ride to Pungiton Camp.

The tourism operations in Sapulut are managed by Orou Sapulot (means the Sun of Sapulot), a community based project to promote tourism and in sustainable manner.

Photos taken in Sapulut , Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Supirak Island, an Island of Sorrow

The Supirak Legend

Supirak Island is amazing because it resembles a petrified big ship. Locals say it was a ship turned into a rock due to a curse from a mother to her son. It’s really shocking because mothers would never want to harm their son. Why did such terrible thing happen?

Si Ragam and other occupants on the ship were turned into rocks

Ok, the legend goes like this. Long time ago in Kougun Village there lived a couple. The man was a fisherman, who went missing in a fishing trip and left behind his pregnant housewife, Supirak (or Odu Gerawang). She gave birth Si Ragam, a boy grew up as a responsible and hardworking man who really cared about his mother. He built a small hut for both on the seaside of Torong Puteh. To Supirak, Si Ragam means everything to her.

Si Ragam wanted to leave home to explore the world and promised his mom that he would come back

One day, a ship docked at Torong Puteh to be resupplied. Being ambitious, Si Ragam asked for his mother’s permission to work on-board for better prospect. He promised Supirak that he would return home one day. Before he left, his mother took a strand of his hair as a keepsake.

Ragam fell in love with princess Dayang Dundunai and married her

Due to his diligence and intelligence, Si Ragam became the captain of the ship. A few years later, his ship landed on an island called Pulau Intan. He met the king in Istana Bahkiah with his merchant boss. During the visit, Ragam fell in love with the princess, Dayang Dundunai, and married her months later.

Supirak and villagers were so excited to see Ragam coming home

One day Si Ragam was on a voyage with his wife and parked his ship at Torong Puteh. The villagers were so excited when they recognized Si Ragam. They held a big party to welcome Si Ragam. Supirak was so happy when everyone told her that her beloved son was back.

Ragam didn’t acknowledge his mother and chased her away

She boarded the ship to meet her son. Unfortunately, seeing Supirak in ragged clothes, Si Ragam was too ashamed of acknowledging her as his mother in front of his royal wife, and he disowned Supirak and chased her out of the ship.

The heart-broken Supirak cursed her son

Devastated and disheartened, Supirak rowed back to the shore. She was then mocked by the villagers. In deep resentment, Supirak took out Ragam’s hair and cursed her son. Suddenly, a heavy storm came to rock the ship. Ragam regretted his wrongdoing and cried aloud begging for forgiveness. It was too late too little. The ship and its occupants turned into stone.

Ragam begged for forgiveness. He and his people were turning into rock with the ship

In the next morning, Kougon village turned into canals and small gulfs. The villagers who were dancing a day before had turned into stones forming islets. Si Ragam’s carriage and three plates used for the meal had also turned into stones. Odu Gerawang’s small hut also turned into a stone arch.

The Rocks

Even today you can see the six “relics” of the legend, which are located near to one another in Malubang. FYI, Batu means “Rock” in Malay language.

Supirak Island

The ship, Supirak Island, is the highlight of the legend. It’s accessible as you can hire a boat from Malubang Village to send you there.

Supirak Island really looks like a ship

The boat ride to Supirak Island takes less than 10 minutes from Malubang Village. In good weather, the shallow sea is in beautiful emerald color, like something from the world of legend.

Supirak Island is near to Malubang Village in Pitas

Jetty of Supirak Island

The district government tries to develop this island as a tourist destination, so jetty and structures were constructed on the island.

Local fisherman family unwinds at Supirak Island

When I reached Supirak Island, there was a local fisherman family fishing and swimming around the jetty. Though they are not used to tourists, they are very friendly to outsiders.

Modern version of Si Ragam lol

We walked on the 30-Meter wooden boardwalk to enter the island, followed by a 12-Meter steep staircase that helps us get to the top of Supirak Island.

The boardwalk and staircase lead to the top of Supirak Island

When the government developed the island, a few 2,000-year-old skeletons and relics were found. I don’t know whether these are Si Ragam and his followers.

The observatory platform that looks like a mainsail of a boat

In the centre of the island, there is an observatory platform with some exhibition about the legend in English and Malay languages. However, the pictures are faded and the text are barely readable.

The bow-like structure at the head of Supirak Island

Then we walked about 200 Meters on a paved path under the tree shade to reach the bow (front) of the island. I saw a few Megapode nests along the way.

You can see Banggi, Balambangan and Maliagin Islands from the top of Supirak Island

The tip of Supirak Island is pointing to the north of Sabah, so you can see Banggi, Balambangan and Maliagin Islands from its top. In fact, Banggi Island is only 20 minutes away by boat ride.

Supirak Island is about 250 Meters long

There is no toilet and other recreational amenities on the island, so nothing much you can do there, except playing Titanic pose and pirates of the Caribbean. The view up there is nice anyway.

This is a sea cave in Supirak Island

Batu Gerawang

At the beach facing Supirak Island, you can find the house of Supirak, which is a stone arch now.

Batu Odu Gerawang on the beach. The bathtub-like structure far behind is one of the freshwater wells

Imagine she was standing there looking at the ship with broken heart. What her son did to her was unthinkable. Abandoning parents is simply an inhuman act in any culture.

The Batu Odu Gerawang rock in different angles. The one at the right looks like a sad woman

Freshwater Wells

Not far in front of Batu Gerawang are three freshwater wells, which were the water supply for Supirak.

The freshwater wells are in front of Batu Odu Gerawang rock

During my visit, these waterholes were submerged in high tide, so I wasn’t able to taste it to tell if it’s freshwater. Anyway, it’s confirmed freshwater by the locals.

The three freshwater wells in the sea

One of the wells is enclosed in cement structure which is meant to preserve it (see pictures no.1 above). However, the wall obstructs the flow of the freshwater, causing sand piled up and cover the opening, not good.

Batu Talam

Batu Talam is said look like a food cover.

Batu Talam, the rock turned from the traditional food cover

You can land on it and make funny surfing pose under its wave rock lol.

“Surfing” under wave-like wall of Batu Talam

Batu Berunsai

Next is the Batu Berunsai islet that looks like a group of people.

The village people in the party were turned into rocks of Batu Berunsai

The locals said these standing stones are the villagers who were turned into rocks in the party for Si Ragam.

Stones of Batu Berunsai

This is a beautful islet with mangrove trees grow between the rocks. At one side of the island, I saw rocks that look like killer whale and shark fin.

Another side of Batu Berunsai. Notice the rock that looks like orca?

One of the rocks looks like a woman in grief. Could it be Supirak?

This stone on Batu Berunsai Islet looks like the sad mother of Ragam

Batu Dulang

These three rocks with flat surface were the plates or containers for the food, our guide said.

Batu Dulang, which was the plates of Ragam

You can climb onto the rocks to take some interesting shots. It’s kind of cool, like a music album cover.

Standing on Batu Dulang. Look like a photo of music album cover haha

The following video gives you an overview of these rocks:

These six rock wonders are in the sea. You need to get a boat to reach them.

The locations of all rocks and island related to Supirak legend

Just ask around in Malubang Village. Most villagers own a boat, so you can easily charter a boat for less than RM80 (about USD$20) for a half-day cruise. The small boat can take about 5 passengers, so each person pays less than RM20 after sharing the cost.

How to get there

A day trip to these rocks is possible, though overnight stay is recommended. From Kota Kinabalu City (KK), there are two ways to reach Supirak Island and other rocks. Try to arrive Malubang before noon, so you can have more time to enjoy the tour.

1. Easy and Fast Way (4 Hours)

In KK city centre, you can get a long distance bus / van / taxi readily near Padang Merdeka (Merdeka Field, see Location Map) to Kudat town, which takes nearly 3 hours one way. Then go to the harbour at the edge of Kudat town to charter a boat. That would cost around RM500 (about USD$125) per boat, and it can reach Malubang within an hour (one way).

On the way to Supirak Island

2. Long Way (6+ Hours)

This requires you to drive a total of 220+ KM (5 to 6 hours road trip), so consider this option only if you plan to overnight in Pitas or Malubang. You need to own (or rent) a transport, preferably 4-wheel drive. First drive from KK to Pitas town (160 KM) on asphalt road, then drive another 60 KM on gravel road to Malubang (and enjoy 2 hours of free butt massage). At Malubang Village, you can hire a boat to visit the rocks. For accommodation, you can stay in Malubang Homestay in Malubang Village.

During low tide, you can walk to Supirak Island from mainland

The GPS Coordinates of Malubang Village is 6.959509, 117.060136 (see Location Map). Please keep in mind the village is so remote that it has no data and Internet connection. You would have problem if you navigate with Waze or Google Map.

FYI, the plot of Supirak legend is 90% similar to story of Si Tanggang, which is very well-known in Peninsular Malaysia. However, you only can see these legendary rocks in Sabah.

Photos taken in Pitas, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Serinsim, a different face of Kinabalu Park

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A family is having a hard time to plan a holiday trip at a destination that makes everyone happy.

Grandfather: “I want to learn some local history and legend.”
Mother: “How about a BBQ feast?”
Father: “Let’s climb a mountain.”
Son: “Camping and jungle trekking will be fun!”
Daughter: “I love swimming in river.”

Location of Serinsim (Sorinsim) and Kinabalu Park

Finally they decide to visit Serinsim (or Sorinsim) in Kota Marudu, which has all these. There is no second place in Sabah where we can find river, waterfall, forest, cave, mountain and historical site in one park.

Signage to different attractions inside Serinsim. It’s ok if you can’t read Malay. I’ll tell you what they are later.

Serinsim is a substation in northern part of Kinabalu Park, the first UNESCO World Heritage Site of Malaysia. Lies between the Serinsim and Kanarom rivers, the river of Serinsim is straight from the undisturbed rainforest and mountain, so its water is crystal clear and almost as good as Spritzer.

You may be familiar with the mountainous zone in Kinabalu Park HQ in Kundasang highland. Serinsim is at opposite side of HQ, which is dominated by lowland rainforest, shows different face of Kinabalu Park. Most locals only come here to enjoy the cooling river, without knowing that Serinsim has the following special attractions:

1. Mount Nombuyukong (Gunung Nombuyukong)

With a height of 1,603.57 Meters, Mt. Nombuyukong is 976 Metres lower than its sister peak, Mt. Tambuyukon, the third highest mountain of Malaysia. Mount Nombuyukong can be conquered within a day.

>> Read about the challenging climb to Mt. Nombuyukong…

2. Bat Cave (Gua Kelawar)

Gua Kelawar is a small cave about 200 Meters long, and it is for the adventurous you who like the idea of exploring the unknown. *Hint:* many creeping critters in the darkness. I saw rare mushroom and endemic begonia outside the cave.

The rocky wall of Bat Cave (Gua Kelawar) in Serinsim

>> Read my scary story inside Bat Cave…

3. Misumpak Waterfall

Serinsim is more than a park for swimming and picnic only. Do a jungle trekking to visit the 12-Meter Misumpak Waterfall. Soaking in its cooling ponds will be one of the best nature experience, I promise. You would see hornbill, civet, red leaf monkey, orangutan and other wildlife on the way.

>> Read more about Misumpak Waterfall…

4. Gambaliu, the Tallest Man in the World

According to the local legend, a giant named Gambaliu lived here about two to three thousand years ago. With a height of 24 feet, Gambaliu is taller than giraffe. He was a gentle and helpful giant. However, what his people did after he died was sort of… heartless.

>> See the Tomb of Gambaliu…

5. Sigunting Graveyard

Sick of those cliche movies about superheroes saving the mankind? Let’s hear the story of real Sabah hero, Si-Gunting, who fought British imperialism for 7 years.

>> Read more about Sigunting…

6. Deer Farm

About 120 Meters from the hostel (Asrama Kanarom) is a 0.5-Acre of fenced and forested Deer Farm. The best time to visit is the feeding time at 2pm, the time about 10 Sambar deers show up for jackfruit, tapioca leaves, banana, and fruits given by the Park.

Deer Farm of Serinsim. Visitors can walk up to the tower for better view.

Below is the trail and layout map of Serinsim. Please note that for most jungle trekking activities, you are required to hire a guide from the Park, which can be arranged easily one day in advance.

Trail map to different attractions in Serinsim. **Translation:** Pejabat = Office, Galeri = Gallery, Pondok = Gazebo, Pelawat = Visitor, Tapak Perkhemahan = Camping Ground, Tandas Awam = Public Toilet, Dapur = Kitchen, Sungai = River, Sg. = River, Anak Sungai = Small River, Jalan Raya = Road, Jambatan Kerata = Bridge for Car, Air Terjun = Waterfall, Makam = Grave, Puncak = Peak, Kem = Camp, Ke = To

Accommodation

Three chalets and one hostel are available to accommodate three families and 24 people respectively in the Park. Below is a quick comparison of the price. The rate is as of July 2017, and GST tax is included.

Accommodation Type	Rate per Night
Camping	Adult: MYR5.30 (≈USD$1.32) Below 12: MYR2.15 (≈USD$0.53)
Hostel (Asrama Kanarom)	Adult: MYR42.40 (≈USD$10.60) Below 18: MYR31.80 (≈USD$7.95)
Chalet	1 Chalet: MYR318.00 (≈USD$79.50) 1 Room: MYR106 (≈USD$26.50)

Notes: Check-out time is 11:00am. Non-halal food such as pork is forbidden in the accommodation. The accommodation is not well-maintained. Before you unpack your luggage, make sure everything in your room is functioning (e.g. water supply, light, air-cond). Just in case anything is broken, you can change to other room quickly.

Asrama Kanarom Hostel

Asrama Kanarom Hostel is a dormitory-style one storey building which has four bedrooms, common toilet + bathroom and kitchen. Each room has 6 bunk beds, so this hostel can host about 24 people.

Interior of Asrama Kanarom Hostel in Serinsim

The fee for each bunk bed in hostel is MYR42.40 for adult and MYR31.80 for kid (below 18 years old). The room has air-conditioner, and pillow and blanket are provided. It’s an economic choice for budget travelers and student group who don’t mind to share room.

The kitchen has gas stove, cooking and dining utensils for use by the guests. Electricity and water supply are available all time.

However, there is no private bathroom. Guests can share the common unisex toilet and bathroom. Sorry, no water heater for a hot shower, but you can boil hot water in kitchen like what I did.

Toilet cum shower room, cooking area, utensils and refrigerator in Asrama Kanarom Hostel

One nice thing about this hostel is that it’s located next to the starting point of trail to all nature attractions.

Chalets

There are three chalets in the Park. You can book the whole chalet for MYR318 per night, or rent a room for MYR106. Each chalet has three rooms (two of them are single bed). Each chalet is limited for 6 people. For additional guests, you need to pay extra MYR30 per person.

Each room has an attached bathroom cum toilet. Heater for hot shower is not available. Soap and towel are provided for the guest. Every room has air-conditioning.

Chalet of Serinsim (or Sorinsim). At the left is Mt. Nombuyukong

Bedroom, living room and kitchen of Serinsim Chalet

Camping

Camping ground is also available to those who desire a more nature experience. For adult, the camping fee per night is MYR5.30 and MYR2.15 for child below 12. You can rent a camping tent for MYR30/day at Sabah Parks office, or bring your own.

The campsite is just next to the river. There are gazebos, benches, public toilet and kitchen nearby that area.

There is no lighting at night, so you better bring your camping light and torchlight.

There is no TV, karaoke and night life in the park, so you will get bored in the evening. Do plan some fun activities for the night, for example, board games, BBQ party, ~~strip poker~~, watch movies on laptop.

Playing Uno in the hostel (Asrama Kanarom)

By the way, Kota Marudu is famous for its maize. You can buy some along the way and grill it, it’s delicious.

Don’t be impressed by the facilities listed in the map above. Everything in Serinsim is basic, nothing 5-star. For example, the so called soccer field is just a grassland. The restaurant never opens and there is no gallery.

How to get there

Serinsim is about 32 KM from Kota Marudu town and 130 KM away from Kota Kinabalu City (capital of Sabah). This substation is now highly accessible after asphalt highway is complete in 2013. The GPS coordinate is 6.293915, 116.707986 (see Location Map).

In the past you needed a 4-wheel drive to get in. That might be the reason why Serinsim is one of the least explored parks in Sabah. There is no bus goes directly to Serinsim.

You will pass through Marak-Parak Village and Sorinsim Village before you reach Serinsim

You also can go to Serinsim from Poring Hot Springs, the 46-KM road is in good condition.

Signage at the entrance. Translation: Welcome to Kinabalu Park, Serinsim Sub-Station, Kota Marudu

Things to Note

For a better travel experience at Serinsim, please take note of the following:

There is no restaurant in the Park. You can prepare your own food in their kitchen, buy food from villages nearby (The shops are usually roadside residential run by villagers with signage such as Gerai Makan (Food Stall) or Kedai Runcit (Grocery Store)), or drive 30 minutes to Kota Marudu town looking for restaurant.
The mobile line coverage is none or poor in the Park. My Maxis line got 0 bar. Celcom may work. Anyway, let’s prepare to be offline there.
Bring insect repellent. There are mosquitoes in shaded area during dusk and dawn.
There is a grocery shop and cafe outside the park entrance.
Most area in Park has no light. Bring a torchlight if you would move around in the Park at night, especially campers.

Sabah Parks office and car park of Serinsim (Sorinsim)

Entrance Fee

The following is the ticket fee to enter the park. They only accept cash in Ringgit Malaysia (MYR).

Item	Fee / Rate
Conservation Fee	Malaysian: MYR10.00 Foreigner: MYR50.00 Below 18 years old: MYR5.00 and MYR25.00 respectively

Conservation Fee with effect from 1 Jan 2023

Ticket counter at the entrance of Serinsim (Sorinsim)

Serinsim is managed by Sabah Parks. For more information about Serinsim, you may browse www.sabahparks.org.my or call the head office of Sabah Parks in Kota Kinabalu at +60 88-523500.

Photos taken in Kota Marudu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Bat Cave of Serinsim: Home of Thousands Worm

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Whenever you see people go caving in a movie, you know something terribly wrong is gonna to happen next. Soon they would find some skeletons laying around, then they become the dinner of some unknown monster, or accidentally awaken a thousand-year-old demon. To most, cave is a dark and hideous world full of creepy and creeping dwellers.

Hendrick is my guide who took me to Bat Cave (Gua Kelawar)

On the other hand, exploring cave is thrilling to the adventurous hearts, as one may expect to find treasure inside. Well, you can make a fortune from saliva and dung. I meant the edible bird nest (US$2,000 per Kg) and guano fertilizer (good quality as it’s rich in nitrogen, phosphate and potassium), which are the real treasure from a cave. To me, whether it’s a monster or Batman inside, cave is always a mysterious place that draws me.

Dense rainforest of Serinsim Park

In Sabah, only a handful of caves are really huge, for example, Gomantong, Madai, and Japanese War Tunnel. Most other so-called caves listed in tourism brochure are more like crevices between boulders less than 20 Meters deep, with some smelly guano, noisy bats and stinky cockroaches that wait to be screamed at.

Therefore, at first I didn’t expect much from the Bat Cave (Gua Kelawar) in Serinsim Park (in Kota Marudu, Sabah, Malaysia). When I checked it out, I was really excited to see something new and special. And for the first time, the video of this cave is available online.

Going to Bat Cave (Gua Kelawar)

Gua Kelawar (translated as Bat Cave) is located in Serinsim Park (or Sorinsim), a substation at the north of Kinabalu Park about 130 KM away from Kota Kinabalu City (KK). In the park, you need to walk 5.5 Kilometers (one way) on a jungle trail to reach the cave, and you must be escorted by a guide. You can request Sabah Parks (management of Serinsim) to get you a guide. The guide fee is MYR60 (about USD$15), you can hire one guide for your group and share the cost among yourselves.

Guide clearing the trail

A round trip is 11 KM in distance. FYI, I departed around 7:30am and arrived the cave about 11:30am. You better go in the morning, so you can come back before nightfall. Do bring water, packed lunch and raincoat with you. Dry bag is optional but good to have because you will cross two rivers. Hendrick is my guide. Though he looks very serious in my photos, he is really friendly and helpful.

Genat, a friendly village dog wanted to follow us but stopped by a river

A village dog named Genat (means flash or lightning in Dusun language) was following us. Genat was always running 10 Meters in front of us. He would stop and wait if we were too slow. Sometimes he would go missing in action, then suddenly pop out of the wood next to us. According to Hendrick, Genat had followed the tourists to the peak of Mt. Nombuyukon (Height: 5,550 feet!) a few times. Sadly, after 3 KM, he was stopped by a river. After barking at the river for a few minutes, he headed back to village in disappointment, poor dog…

Interesting plant in jungle

The jungle trekking is not so tough. The first 3 KM is mostly flat area, with some short walk on gentle slopes, followed by a walk on undulating terrain for the last 2.5 KM. Blood sucking leeches are present in this warm and humid rainforest, so you better wear a leech socks. I saw some interesting mushroom and plant along the way, and happy to see two hornbills flied over the canopy.

Different type of fungi I saw. Note the mushroom at upper left is like having a drop of blood on it.

Hendrick is a very responsible guide who has been guiding tourists since 2006. I’m sure whatever shit happens to me, he will make sure I go back in one piece. He is 44 years old and a Dusun lives in Serinsim Village.

Crossing the Serinsim River

We had to cross a few streams and two rivers. One of the streams is called Thomas River, because a white man missionary died there during World War II. The rivers are about 2 to 3 feet deep (Be careful of the uneven depth). To avoid getting wet, I crossed with my underwear only lol.

Bull eye fungus (edible). Some local girls use its “jello” as hair conditioner or facial mask

After we crossed the second river named Sungai Serinsim Gibang, Bat cave is only 200 Meters away.

Outside the Cave

As we were approaching the Bat Cave, I could smell the ammonia of the guano. This is a bat zone, evidenced by their dropping on the vegetation.

Mushroom near the Bat Cave

Interesting rock formation near the cave

Then we saw a beautiful rocky knoll, which is about 20 Meters high and mainly constituted by dark colored conglomerate.

Rock wall that looks like man-made structure

Bat Cave is behind this dark rock wall

My first impression of that knoll is – it looks like a rock castle of a vampire, and something belong to another world.

Begonia at cave area

Though I was near to Bat Cave, I was so enticed by the peculiar surrounding, so I spent more time around to explore more. The cave area is a flourishing zone for begonia. More than 190 species of begonia are found in Borneo and more than half are endemic species.

A small cave outside Bat cave

Colorized rocks in a small cave

Probably due to some chemical reaction, the bat dropping “dyed” some rocks into green, orange and purple colors.

Rock wall outside Bat cave

Mold-like substance on the rocks

Some rocks seem to have mold growing on them and turn whitish.

The spot where the rebels slept

More than a hundred years ago, this place was one of the hiding places of Sigunting and his followers, a guerilla group who rebelled against the British colonial government.

Exploring the Bat Cave

The entrance to Bat Cave is about 12 Meters above the ground and doesn’t look inviting. Frankly I was a bit scared because I had 0 info about this cave, and didn’t know what was waiting for me inside.

Climbing to the cave

Hendrick and I climbed over some boulders with bare hands and came to a 15-feet aluminium ladder that led to the opening of the cave. The aluminium ladder was covered with mud and probably bat shit, quite disgusting, but I didn’t plan to flinch once I started.

Hendrick standing at the entrance of Bat Cave

The smell of guano got stronger, and from the loud volume, I could tell there were a lot of bats in the cave.

Narrow passage to Bat Cave

After I climbed up the ladder, in front of me is a narrow passage that is only 4 to 7 feet wide, enough to cause some panic attack to those with claustrophobia (Fear of Confined Spaces).

Near the entrance of Bat Cave

I entered the tunnel. It’s quite steep, with 30 to 50 degree of slope. I moved up slowly on pile after pile of rocks with uneven surface, and had to use the rock wall as support. Hendrick was about 10 feet behind me. I worried some loose rocks would be freed by my footsteps and hit his face, so I asked him to stay closer.

Earthworms crawling everywhere

Even though it wasn’t raining outside, the cave was really wet with water dripping from the top. Thanks God we reached a relatively flat and wider area after 25 Meters. It gets really dark and dingy, so I turned on my torchlight, then I noticed something like snake crawling next to my foot.

Earthworms all over the cave

It’s a… no, thousands of big and long earthworms everywhere! Most of them are over one foot long, with disgusting red segment rings. Aren’t earthworms living underground? I can’t explain why they lay around on exposed rocks from the ground to the wall as high as 10 feet.

Big earthworms in Bat Cave

There were some cockroaches ran away from my light. Compare to earthworms, they are like a minority in this cave.

Cockroaches lurking in the dark

My spidey sense kept pressing me to leave the cave, but I ignored my tingling goosebumps and moved further in and faced another steep climb.

Deep layer of guano

When I looked up and pointed the light to the top, Oh-My-Gosh, I saw a dense dark cloud of restless hanging bats. Their echolocate may have detected intruders, so they jittered. The deeper I went in, the more intense and louder the bat screeching, it’s getting almost unbearable. I knew for sure that I was not welcomed.

Bat dropping on the ground

Bat tornado on top of my head

Suddenly they all took off and flied in panic. It’s like turning on a giant fan and create a strong turbulence of air in the cave (I’m not exaggerating here). My heart was thumping like crazy.

Rock wall of Bat Cave

I didn’t see any stalagmites and stalactites, so this is not a limestone cave I guess. After walking for another 20 Meters, we came to an edge of a 10-feet drop to a trench filled with guano. I could see light at other end of the cave. I estimate this cave is about 200 Meters long.

Guano pool near the end of cave

I had no idea how deep is the guano pool, so I better didn’t try to walk over it for the sake of safety.

Deep inside the Bat Cave

Hendrick says I’m the first tourist who goes inside Bat Cave. I would not recommend you to try this, as it carries some risk. It is not a touristy cave which have boardwalk for you to explore the cave illuminated by colorful light. If you really want to explore, bring a very powerful torchlight or LED headlamp.

Yellow bat dropping, brown mud stain and red blood stain (leech bite) on my pants

My body is full of stains of bat dropping, mud and leech bites. This is the filthiest trip that I have experienced so far, but fun.

Photos taken in Kota Marudu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Batu Luang, the Rock that ate the Bride

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I was astonished when a famous photographer from West Malaysia showed me some stunning photos of Batu Luang, a bell-shaped rock located in a beach of Kuala Penyu. Batu means “Rock” in Malay language, and Batu Luang means “Luang Rock” literally.

Photo by Muhammad Adzha, under Creative Commons License

Batu Luang is surrounded by mossy green rocks, sea, pebbles, rusty-red rockface, and caves, when one or more of these being framed into a photo during orange-hued dusk, you will get one of the most amazing sunset shots of Sabah.

Nice sunset at Batu Luang (high tide)

It is funny that it’s non-Sabahan who introduced Batu Luang to me. Anyway, I’m excited to check out Batu Luang near Tempurong Beach (or Pantai Tempurung). The rock is very accessible and near to the main road in Tempurung Village.

Walking to Batu Luang. The hills at both sides look like a giant gate, or the parents of little Batu Luang

The beach and hills are covered by cobbles and pebbles

Batu Luang Beach

The view is better than what I saw in the photos online, which show only a small part of the beach. The beach and rockfaces are covered by pebbles in different size and shapes. There are 5 or 6 caves at the base of the hills there. The biggest cave can fit in 10 or more people, other caves are more like a hole.

The pebble beach and cave around Batu Luang

Batu Luang may look small in photos. Actually it’s over 12 Meters high and the only big rock standing in the sea (as far as we can see).

Small caves at the base of hill, created by coastal erosion

Though Batu Luang is a new hot spot for local photographers, there is no hotel, restaurant, parking lots and toilet nearby. Occasionally you would see some local youngsters frolicking there in hot days, or a few photographers taking photos during dusk, Most of the time you would be the only one at the beach.

Splendid twilight hour at Batu Luang

Therefore, Batu Luang Beach retains its beauty of untouched nature. It has some special geological features which are uncommon in Sabah. For example, the rustic-red color of the rockfaces are so magnificent when they are painted over by golden sun ray in late afternoon.

Legend of Batu Luang

The beautiful Batu Luang has a tragic story about a newly-wed couple. Many years ago in Kuala Penyu, after the wedding celebration at the bride’s home, the couple walked to the house of bridegroom with their families in a fine morning. When they were approaching Batu Luang, the sky turned dark, and they were hit by heavy rainstorm.

Batu Luang rock in the morning

Therefore, they ran and took shelter in a cave at Batu Luang. When the storm was over, the group moved out from the cave. The couple was the last to exit. Suddenly, the cave collapsed and closed, the bride was the last person on the way out. The bridegroom grabbed her hands trying to pull her out. Unfortunately, her hands slipped and left the wedding ring in the hand of her husband. She was sealed in the cave forever.

Ladies at Batu Luang Beach (better stay away from the cave LOL)

The locals say sometimes they can hear woman crying inside the rock at night. So sad… On positive side, the bridegroom doesn’t need to buy a new wedding ring if he remarries.

View of Batu Luang rock from inside a cave

According to a local blog by Muzaffar Libon Jueh, there is a part two for this story. The bride was trapped in the cave and alive. The villagers tried everything to open the cave but unsuccessful. Then a bird flied by and chirped, like saying, “Poke with a needle then it’ll open.” However, the people there just scoffed and ignored it. After 7 days of trying, the villagers gave up, so was the bride. She handed over the wedding ring to her husband through a small opening, asking him to forget her. She was then locked inside forever and marry to the guardian spirit of the cave, and became an angel named Kasum. If you bump into a pretty girl playing at Ara tree on top of the hill near Batu Luang, she could be Kasum.

The small shrub on Batu Luang reminds me of Batu Burung (Bird Rock)

However, this sounds like a “modern” legend because Sabah had no such thing as wedding ring a few hundred years ago. Very likely parents make up this story to scare children, so they won’t go playing around Batu Luang, which can be dangerous due to a few reasons. The water at Batu Luang Beach can be quite deep during high tide, and the current is strong.

Interesting rock formation and rocks covered by green algae

Furthermore, they could be hit by falling rocks from the loose rockface above. Our people also believe exploring cave would disturb the “Bogeymen” dwells inside, hence the warning they would be eaten alive by cave and become the next Batu Luang.

A Beach that Rocks

Batu Luang is not the only interesting rock here. Just look around and you will be fascinated by variety of rocks at the shore.

Shingle beach of Batu Luang

Most of the rocks at Batu Luang Beach are cobble with round edges, after being moved and tumbled by sea waves over time.

Batu Luang and surrounding pebbles covered by green algae

The most intriguing rocks are those covered with green algae. These rocks are only present from January to June, the months when monsoon washes away the sand that buries them.

Cool conglomerate near Batu Luang

The conglomerate deposit on rockface and the beach is another highlight of Batu Luang Beach. Conglomerate is made up of rounded pebbles glued together, formed by the lithification of cobble-size rocks and gravel.

The rockface and caves of Batu Luang are unique

To me, the conglomerate cemented with round pebbles looks like dinosaur eggs fossils. This is the first time I see such rock formation in Sabah.

Batu Luang during high tide (with conglomerate rocks in foreground)

The conglomerate is really nice, like a piece of art, so I joked to my friends that I wanted to bring some home. The moment I finished talking, a few rocks fell right in front of me. We have to watch our mouth in the wild, because “something” might be listening. Ok then, I took nothing but photograph.

Mimic the expression of the rock |-O

Tour around Batu Luang

Batu Luang is a public beach, so anyone can go there. It’s safe for children to explore around under the care of adults.

Batu Luang during sunrise

The only problem is the tiny blood-sucking sandfly. Its bite can stay itchy for days. Try to cover as much exposed skin as you can. There are not many sandfly anyway.

Sunset shot at Batu Luang Beach

If weather permits, you can have wonderful picture and welfie moment during sunset.

Beach around Batu Luang

Part of the beach is rocky, so you better wear shoes.

Villagers fishing at Tempurong Beach

There are a few villagers living near to the beach. You might find them catching fishes in the morning.

Children stroll on the beach

At another side of Batu Luang is a vast area of sandy beach. The waves are quite strong, so don’t go too far away from shore.

Family fun at Tempurong Beach and Batu Luang

Beautiful rockface and cave

The old folks say there was used to be a deep cave at Batu Luang in the past, which they believe hidden with a lot of treasures, but the cave has disappeared. You may try your luck there. Just watch out for falling rocks when you explore the caves.

There are many small caves around Batu Luang

The biggest cave at Batu Luang Beach

Exploring the big cave

How to get there

Batu Luang is about 120 Km away from Kota Kinabalu City (KK) and 14 Km away from Kuala Penyu town. Its GPS location is 5.524541, 115.523986 (see Location Map or 3D Street View).

Turtle roundabout before Kuala Penyu town

There is no public transport that reaches Batu Luang, so you have to get a taxi or drive on your own for 2 hours. If you depart from KK, you will reach a roundabout with turtle statues (about 10 Km before Kuala Penyu town). Turn left to the direction of Menumbuk.

Junction to Batu Luang

After 1.5 Km, turn right to the junction with the signs (see photo above) that read “JLN Kasugira BT Luang” and “Selemat Datang ke Kg. Gorowot” (opposite to Rumbia Information Center).

You can see Batu Luang from the road

Then follow the road sign to Tempurung Golden Beach Resort, and you will see Batu Luang at your left after 4 to 5 KM. The place is highly accessible by asphalt road in good condition. You can park your car at the roadside and walk 100 Meters to the beach.

Photos taken in Kuala Penyu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Sabah Fest 2015: AGOP, The Heritage of Sabah’s Caves

Where to Travel, Eat and Stay in Kunak town, Sabah

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Though one of the oldest civilization of Sabah starts in Kunak, Kunak is not the most developed area of Sabah. Kunak is also where Islam first landed in Sabah, and you still can find traces of Japanese WW2 occupation around. Today, Kunak is a “forgotten” town at Sabah East Coast, and nobody remember its bustling history.

Pic: Islam of Sabah starts in Kunak.

The locals there call Kunak the “Cowboy Town” (Pekan Koboi). Kunak is quite safe and peaceful, and doesn’t look a town of outlaw. With a population of about 50,000, most Kunakians are Bajau, Idahan and Bugis mainly working in oil palm and fishing sectors. The people here are very friendly.

Where to Travel

I don’t like standard sight-seeing tour, so Kunak is a nice town for me to see Sabah in different angle. Kunak is not a popular tourist destination of Sabah, but there are a few interesting places for you to explore.

1. Madai Waterfall

This 40-Meter waterfall is only 15 KM away from Kunak town and next to the main road. It is the favorite recreation site of the locals.

» Read more about Madai Fall

2. Japanese War Tunnel

This war tunnel is a huge underground cave used by Japanese force during World War II. It is located in Mostyn oil palm plantation of Sime Darby about 12 KM away from Kunak.

» Read more about Japanese War Tunnel

3. Madai Cave

Madai Cave is the second largest cave of Sabah and situated in “Swiftlet Mountain”. This cave would be closed in Apr, Aug and Dec for bird nest harvesting by Idahan people.

» Read more about Madai Cave

Pic: Idahan girls are fair-skin and beautiful. May be they eat bird nest soup every day. 🙂

You may read my other blog about Kunak if you want to visit more attractions.

Where to Eat

Kunak is famous for its deer meat and chili paste. Kunak town is near to sea so its seafood is relatively fresh and cheap. Below are a few good places for eat out in Kunak.

1. Fook Seng Restaurant (????)

For me, Fook Seng Restaurant is the No.1 Restaurant in Kunak. It establishes in 1970, the oldest restaurant of Kunak. The taste and variety of food there is good and they serve no pork.

Fook Seng Restaurant is located at: Bahagian Kedai Sedco, Block C, Lot 4, 91207 Kunak, Sabah. They open from 10am to 8pm daily.
Tel: +60 89-852 828, +60 16-831 9828 (mobile phone, look for Ben Poon)

Pic: deer meat (payau) fried in soy sauce and zesty sliced ginger

Pic: air-conditioned room which can host about 20 guests

Pic: sweet and sour garoupa

Pic: deep-fried calamari

Pic: mixed vegetables and mushroom

Pic: fried tofu (stuffed with minced meat) and fried brinjal

2. Vui Kee Seafood Restaurant (??????)

Another restaurant recommended by the locals. They open from 9am to 9:30pm. The food there is quite good too.

Vui Kee is about 4 KM away from Kunak town (See location map) and near (2-min walk) to Mostyn Hotel.

Pic: deer meat (Payau) for RM7 (≈USD2.33)

Pic: seafood Tom Yam soup for RM6 (≈USD2)

Note: prices as of Oct 2012

3. Restoran Cita Rasa Kita (R.C.K.)

This restaurant is very near (1-min walk) to Mostyn Hotel, and they serve Halal food (Muslim-friendly).

Nobody told me about this place. I was attracted by the smoke from their BBQ.

Pic: BBQ chicken wing, not bad.

Pic: BBQ Chicken Tail, anyone?

Where to Stay

Kunak is neither a big city nor popular destination, so they have only 2 hotels. If you plan to stay in Kunak, I will recommend Mostyn Hotel at Simpang Empat (means “Fourth Junction”), which is near the roundabout 4 KM before Kunak town.

Mostyn Hotel is the most decent hotel of Kunak. The accommodation is clean and basic.

Pic: reception counter. The staffs can speak basic English.

Below is their contact:
Address: MDKNK 2360-2363, Simpang Empat, 91200 Kunak, Sabah, Malaysia. (See location map)
Tel: +60 89 853005
Mobile Phone: +60 16 8260105
E-mail: mostynhotelkunak@gmail.com
Fax: +60 89 852699

I stayed in their Standard Room (Twin Bed) on 1st floor, for RM67 (≈USD22) per night.

Pic: attached bedroom & toilet, with water heater

Pic: types of rooms and rates of Mostyn Hotel (as of Oct 2012)

In case you can’t read Malaysian language, Tingkat = Floor, Jenis Bilik = Room Type, RM = Malaysia currency (USD1≈RM3), Harga Bilik = Room Price, Cukai Kerajaan = Government Tax, Jumlah Keseluruhan = Total Price.
Upon check-in, they collect RM100 refundable deposit, so prepare more cash.

Though Mostyn Hotel is not in the town center of Kunak, its location is still quite convenient, as Vui Kee and Cita Rasa Kita restaurants are nearby. If you take long-distance bus to Kunak, you can ask the bus to drop you very near to this hotel.

Going to Kunak

Kunak is 470 KM away from Kota Kinabalu city (KK) and located between Tawau and Lahad Datu (see Sabah map below). Normally, most travellers take a 45-min flight from KK to Tawau or Lahad Datu, then get a taxi to Kunak (Distance: 58KM from Lahad Datu, 83 KM from Tawau).

To save some money, backpackers would take long-distance bus from KK to Kunak. The bus ticket is about RM50 to RM60 (≈USD17-20) one way and the road trip takes 8 hours.

Pic: bus terminal of Kunak, the bus departs as early as 8:00am.

Unfortunately, there is no licensed taxi in Kunak. I rely on their unlicensed taxi (known as Kerata Sapu locally), which is readily available around town (seem like everyone can be a taxi driver there). But be warned, using unlicensed taxi is as risky as hitchhiking. It is quite ok in Kunak, but it is common sense for traveller (especially lady) to be vigilant, no matter where you travel. I requested Mostyn Hotel to get a reliable driver for me, and you can do the same.

There are still a few places such as Salt-water hot spring and 7-Well Waterfall that I want to see, so I’ll visit Kunak again. What do you think of Kunak? Does it have the potential to be a tourism destination? Please share with me if you know other good attractions and food in Kunak.

Photos taken in Kunak, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo