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People on top of Batu Punggul

Batu Punggul, the Sacred Hill of Sabah

I was awed by the majestic Batu Punggul, a 220-Metre-high limestone pinnacle in Sapulut, in the interior of Sabah, Malaysia. Before it’s open to tourists in 1992, Batu Punggul is a sacred hill that is only mentioned in the books of Borneo adventurers. Its photograph looks like a giant tombstone standing tall above the mysterious rainforest.

There are 1,393 limestone outcrops or hills in Malaysia, with 911 of them located in Peninsular Malaysia, while 482 are in Sabah and Sarawak.

According to the legend of Murut people, Batu Punggul is a petrified longhouse, the result of a punishment by God to the people who mocked animals. The hill was used to be so high that it covered the sky until someone chopped it down and only its stump remains. Punggul means stump in Murut language hence Batu Punggul means stump-like rock.

There are a total of 218 limestone outcrops in Sabah. Of these outcrops, 149 are in the districts of Kinabatangan, Kudat and Lahad Datu.

Put aside its terrifying myth, Batu Punggul is the most unique and stunning pinnacle among the 218 limestone outcrops in Sabah. My late father had climbed Batu Punggul, so I followed his footsteps, to understand why his eyes sparkled whenever he talked about Batu Punggul. Though climbing this vertical hill sounds challenging, I’m sure most of you can conquer it.

About Batu Punggul

Batu Punggul is no ordinary hill because of its cultural and ecological values. Batu Punggul has been a legendary and sacred place to Murut people, the third largest indigenous group of Sabah. The locals respect Batu Punggul and have many stories about it.

Murut people and the traditional Murut longhouse, which can accommodate a number of families or even a village.

The most popular story on the formation of Batu Punggul is about two Murut longhouses, namely, Punggul and Tinagas, with Sapulut River ran between these two villages in the past. One day the people of Punggul longhouse had no fire to cook, so they asked Tinagas longhouse on the other side for fire. At first the Tinagas people tied a bundle of fire on the head of a dog and let it swam across the river. A big wave came and put out the fire. People of both longhouses laughed.

The villagers were laughing at the unlucky animals, but their God didn’t think that it’s funny.

Then the Tinagas people tied the fire on a cock and made it flied across the river to deliver the fire. But the river was too wide. The cock fell into the river. Everyone laughed again. Later someone mocked a leech that perched on a jar to drink tapai (rice or tapioca wine). Making fun of animals is a taboo in Murut. Their misbehavior angered the God Aki Kaulung, who turned these people and their longhouses into rocks immediately.

Making harmless fun to animals is probably acceptable in some cultures, but a big No-No to Murut people. (I need to clarify that the owner of this dog really loves his pet.)

After the punishment, Batu Punggul became a very tall limestone rock that blocked the sun and obstructed the sunlight needed for crops to grow, so a young man chopped down Batu Punggul. When the hill fell, it broke into smaller rocks which scattered along the downstream of Sapulut River. The Batu Punggul was left with a “stump” that we see today.

Location map of Sapulut and Batu Punggul. The adjacent Sungai Sansiang Virgin Forest Reserve covers an area of about 344 ha.

Batu Punggul is located within the Batu Punggul Forest Reserve (see Location Map) in the interior of Sabah, about 110 KM south of Keningau town. When logging was rampant in 1980s, Dr. Richard Gunting saved Batu Punggul and its surrounding forest from deforestation in 1986. In 2009, Batu Punggul Forest Reserve was gazetted as an Amenity Forest Reserve (Class IV), covering an area of 150 hectares (1.5 Square Kilometre).

Batu Punggul is a limestone pinnacle and a sacred hill for the locals. The girl at the right is Jariah, one of the guides.

Limestone is a type of rock that forms underwater from the structures of living organisms like coral and shells millions of years ago. When Borneo island raised from the ocean floor, a series of tectonic movements by earth lifted the limestone of Batu Punggul above the ground. It’s a blessing that Batu Punggul still survives today, when 32 (23%) of limestone outcrops in Sabah are being quarried for cement production.

You can read on or watch this video for a walkthrough of the climbing trip.

Tour to Batu Punggul

In the past, without the Keningau-Tawau highway, visitors had to withstand four or more hours of boat ride to reach Batu Punggul. Now climbing Batu Punggul can be a day trip (though an overnight trip is recommended). You can book the tour with Borneo Outback Tours (see their contact info near the end). The following is a walkthrough of my trip to Batu Punggul, which consists of river cruise, hiking and climbing.

Signage of Batu Punggul at Tataluan Village, next to the Keningau-Tawau road in Sapulut

The starting point of the tour is at Kampung Tataluan village in Sapulut (see Location Map). My journey starts with a morning river cruise on a wooden longboat from the Tataluan jetty around 9am. I see a lot of rocks along the river, which are said the chips from the fallen hill. The rocks of the poor dog and cock can be seen at the river too.

Taking a boat from the jetty of Kampung Tataluan to Batu Punggul. There is a small toilet before the jetty.

The river is flanked by dense forest. After a few minutes, I see Batu Punggul from a distance. Its presence is so powerful and spiritual that I got goosebumps. In 10 minutes, the boat reaches the entrance to Batu Punggul Forest Reserve. After a short briefing at the reception building of Sabah Forestry Department, we start walking to the starting point of the climb.

View of Batu Punggul from the boat. With me are Dr. Richard Gunting, Ms Wong from media and 3 guides from Orou Sapulot.

Walking to the Foothill of Batu Punggul

The hike from the jetty to the foothill of Batu Punggul takes about 30 minutes. This tropical rainforest is mostly untouched like a virgin forest. For the lucky visitors, they would see blooming rafflesia flower (Species: Rafflesia keithii). 596 taxa of plants are recorded in this forest and 20 of them are endemic to Sabah, and four of them are totally protected plant species.

Left: the Dog Rock at the river. Right: Entrance to Batu Punggul Forest Reserve

Majority of the trail is ascending path. It’s not very steep but quite a workout in this warm and humid forest. Leeches would be around during wet season, so you would need to wear anti-leech socks. I don’t find any leech in my visit. The dense trees shade us from the heat. It’s noisy in here because of the loud cicada calls everywhere.

Big tree and cave in Batu Punggul Forest Reserve. Numerous plants found in and around cave entrances are endemic to limestone. The cave was used as a refuge by the Muruts in times of wars and epidemics. The guy at the right is Josyen.

15 minutes later I reach a big cave. Visitors can enter the cave chamber to see some interesting limestone formations that resemble household items such as jar, the belongings of the longhouse inhabitants. There are a few limestone cave networks (e.g. Batu Tinahas Cave) in this forest reserve for those who are keen in caving.

Batu Punggul Forest Reserve is under the administration of the Tibow District Forestry Office (Sabah Forestry Department).

Climbing Batu Punggul

Finally we arrive the starting point of the climb. To cut down weight, you can leave the unnecessary items here, e.g. portable charger, hiking pole (pack them all in a plastic bag in case it rains). I only climb with a small backpack that carries a 1-Litre water bottle, raincoat and camera. I strongly advise you to apply sunblock lotion before the climb because it’s really hot up there.

Left: This white lantern bug (Species: Pyrops sultanus) is endemic to Borneo. Right: We saw this crested green lizard twice back and forth. It changed from green to black colour.

The starting point is already a test of bravery. You need to traverse sideway to cross a vertical wall. A misstep will be hazardous to your health. You can stop here if you don’t feel confident. Anyway, it’s a great photography spot to take photos that shock your mom.

The scary crossing at the starting point. It’s me in black clothing. Bravery is more useful than climbing skill in this trip.

The climb to the summit takes 45 minutes to an hour. Most people can reach the peak successfully if they are reasonably fit. You don’t need to be a trained rock climber, but some hiking experience and upper body strength (and courage!) would help a lot. The oldest climber who reaches the top of Batu Punggul is 74 years old.

The only available climbing aid are ropes and cables. Jariah looks tired.

The climbing trail is uneven and nearly vertical most of the time. With the help of ropes and cables, I move up slowly on steep boulder cliffs, looking for holes, dents and protrusions, on crevice, jagged edges, and cliff bands as handholds or footholds. The most tricky part is to climb over a few mildly overhanging rocks. The path is so narrow that I can only rest in standing position or leaning to the rocks, as there isn’t enough space to sit down.

Climbing the vertical limestone cliffs of Batu Punggul. Josyen is smiling, as if the climb is too easy for him.

The limestones are hard and sharp with rough surface, good for solid grips but it would scratch your skin. You are better off wearing gloves. I climb without one and get a minor cut on finger. The local believes that if you bleed in your first climb, the spirit is telling you that you will live a long life.

Normally it takes 45 minute to an hour to reach the top of Batu Punggul, depend on your fitness. At the left is Ms Wong Li Pin from media.

The vegetation changes from lowland rainforest to limestone forest, which is predominantly made up of small trees, shrubs and rich herbaceous layers. In Sabah, some of the more common plant species which grow on limestone are begonias (Begonia spp.), Paraboea sp., some ferns and aroids. Among the limestone endemic plant species that occur on Batu Punggul limestone are Tainia ponggolensis (orchid) and Begonia amphioxus. I do spend some time admiring the interesting plant and flowers.

Left: the silvery lucky plant, tawawo, probably a Bluemae. Right: Salung tangi, a magical ingredient for making love potion

I see a lot of whitish plant grows on the limestone. According to the locals, it’s called tawawo. You can put its leaves inside hunting rifle or wallet as a lucky charm. If tawawo is plucked in the morning, it will emit a soothing scent by 2 or 3pm. Give it to a girl. If she smells the aromatic scent, she will fall in love with you, they say.

Interesting plant and flower that grow on limestone of Batu Punggul. Note: plucking plant is forbidden in forest reserves.

We have three guides (Jariah, Josyen and Rosdin) who always keep an eye on us and tell us where to put our feet. Batu Punggul looks dangerous but it’s not really dangerous if you are careful. No severe injury occurs on this pinnacle before. Whatever, it’s still nerve-wracking when I’m crossing a few sections that are only one step away from a hundred-metre fall. My legs shiver whenever I see the cliff below my feet.

The hundred-metre drop is just next to the climber, one of the frightening moments.

The limestones are greyish white in the beginning. As we move closer to the peak, they are darker in colour due to weathering. The biggest challenge of this climb is not the steepness, but dehydration and heat exhaustion. My best advices for you are: bring more water, apply sunscreen, wear comfortable outdoor clothing and a pair of good hiking / climbing shoes. e.g. Adidas Kampung.

The blade-like limestones on top of Batu Punggul. The highest point is less than 30 Metres away from here.

On the top, watch out for a gap called Tapikon Ansawoh, which means “the place where husband and wife jump across”. The story is – a newly married couple was climbing Batu Punggul. When they came to this gap, the sweet husband stretched his legs across the opening, to let his wife walking on them to cross. However, his legs slipped because of her weight and both of them fell into the gap.

Watch out for this gap covered by plant. If you fall into that hole, the person at the right will see you free falling in the opening.

Finally I reach the highest point at 10:50am. It’s such a heroic moment, as if I unlock an achievement. Batu Punggul has no official height, but it is estimated that Batu Punggul is between 200 to 240 Metres high. From the top I have a panoramic view of Labang Valley, Batu Punggul forest reserve, Sungai Sansiang Virgin Forest Reserve, Sapulut River and the forested Batu Tinahas (another petrified longhouse). The locals have the custom of making a wish or throwing away misfortune (buang batang) on the peak. Feel free to try it.

We make it to the top! The high point far behind is Batu Tinahas (another petrified longhouse in the legend) covered by lush forest. In the photo are Jariah from Orou Sapluot (left) and Ms Wong Li Pin from media (right).

There is no tree on the peak to shade us from the scorching sun, so we don’t stay long, otherwise it would be cool to have our lunch on top with the scenic view. Descending is more difficult. Initially we plan to picnic at the pebble beach (river bank) after the climb, but the water level is too high. Therefore, we have some juicy watermelon at the jetty, a great refreshment to supplement ourselves with some sugar and electrolytes after heavy sweating.

Left: eating watermelon after the climb. Right: view of Batu Punggul from upstream Sapulut River. In front of me are Ms Wong and Dr. Richard.

About Sapulut (or Sapulot)

Sapulut is under the Nabawan district of Sabah interior. It is accessible by highway between Keningau and Tawau (part of Pan-Borneo Highway).

For a tour in Sapulut and Batu Punggul, you can contact Borneo Outback Tours Sdn Bhd (Licenses: Co. No. 846369-H / KPK / LN:9247) at:
Website: www.borneo.tours
Facebook: orou.sapulot
Instagram: @orousapulot
Phone: +60 19 2277077 (Whatsapp), +60 87 337 277
Address: A-7-2, Apollo Atrium, 89008 Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia

The tourism operations in Sapulut are managed by Orou Sapulot (means the Sun of Sapulot), a community based project to promote tourism and in sustainable manner.

References

For more information about Batu Punggul, you may check out the following materials:

  1. Jojo M. Fung, SJ (1998). “The Legendary Batu Punggul.” Sabah Society Journal, Vol. 15 (1998) 59-73
  2. Thor-Seng Liew, Junn-Kitt Foon, Gopalasamy Reuben Clements (2021). Conservation of Limestone Ecosystems of Malaysia, Part I and VII . Institute for Tropical Biology and Conservation, Universiti Malaysia Sabah, Kota Kinabalu
  3. RTM TV1 (Rancangan Rentas Peribumi). (2019, August 23). Kehidupan Masyarakat dan Kepercayaan Suku Kaum Murut Tagol di Batu Punggul dan Kampung Tataluan, Nabawan Sabah. [Video]. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mh2v40ytG1U

Photos taken in Sapulut , Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

The Amazing World of Insects at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp

About 40 years ago, a young Japanese boy named Satoshi Tajiri was so fascinated by insects that he loved to explore the forest for collecting bugs. In the early 1990s, inspired by the world of insects, Satoshi invented the wildly successful Pokémon video game and you know the rest of the story. If humans are afraid of insects, there would be no Pokémon game, and also no life-changing discoveries such as honey bees and silkworms.

Insect is a source of inspiration for science, artworks, fashion, movies and even games.

Borneo island is the kingdom of insects and bugs, and it offers far more variety of bugs than what Satoshi saw in his childhood. Some of the insects become an attraction, for example, firefly Christmas trees, Gombizau Honey Bee Farm, butod (sago grub).

Insects of Nuluhon Trusmadi forest reserve. In peak seasons, you could see more than 5,000 species of insects there. Photos by LeeLing

The best place to see insects of Borneo is at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp, located in Nuluhon Trusmadi, a 74,736-hectare (747 KM2) Class I (fully protected) forest reserve in Keningau and where Mount Trus Madi, the second highest mountain of Malaysia situated. I had a wonderful time at the camp just two weeks ago.

20 awesome (or weird) things I saw at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp

A trip to Borneo Jungle Girl Camp is a dream vacation for nature lovers, entomologists, and macro photographers. I’ve visited most rainforest of Sabah and thought there would be nothing new. I was wrong. I was awed by the insect world during my 2-day-1-night trip in the forest of Nuluhon Trusmadi. I just share 20 of them below.

1. Jewel Beetles, the gems of rainforest

Many beetles in Nuluhon Trusmadi are endemic to Borneo and some of them are not named yet. Different beetles seem like wearing armoured wings made of various materials such as wood, marble, metals and leather.

Jewel beetles at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp. Photo by LeeLing

The most remarkable group is the jewel beetles that have a metallic iridescence body. Some rhinoceros, stag, scarab and long-horned beetles of Borneo have such shiny shells. Jewel beetles are the most sought-after trophies by insect collectors and the rare ones can be worth as much as jewelry in black market.

Shiny green scarab beetle of Sabah (species: Pseudochalcothes planiuscula). Photo by LeeLing

Note: you are forbidden to collect any specimen in the protected forest.

2. Pitcher plant with “eyes”

On the way to the camp, there is a rockface area that is almost fully covered by clumps of pitcher plant. The species of this carnivorous plant is Nepenthes reinwardtiana, which is native to Borneo and Sumatra and is unique for the two “eye spots” on the inside surface of its pitchers. Nepenthes reinwardtiana has many different colour forms. In Sarawak, it’s red colour.

Nepenthes reinwardtiana can be found in lowland and highland but is fairly uncommon. The eyespots (see red arrow) are its trademark.

3. Meet the most elegant flying insect

Look like a kite, Moon moth or Luna moth (species: Actias selene vandenberghi and Actias maenas diana) is the most elegant flying insect of Borneo and it has the longest wing tails in insect world. Its swaying long tails are to confuse the predators such as bats, which would target its tails instead of the body. Moth moon is quite rare and I’m glad to see it twice at the camp.

Two types of Moon moths. Left: Actias selene vandenberghi. Right: Actias maenas

4. Flying dead leaves?

How on earth can some moths be so identical to dry leaves? The best camouflage trick human can pull off is a ghillie suit and it’s not even close to these dead leaf moths. Some moths even have holes on their wings to mimic a decayed foliage perfectly!

Borneo moths that mimic the shapes and colours of leaf

5. Praying Mantis, the Master of Stealth

The lethal claws makes Kungfu mantis the apex predator of the insect world. Some species take it to next level by being stealth to ambush their prey. They even rock back and forth to imitate the movement of leaves in wind. Praying mantis also can turn their heads 180 degree to scan their surrounding. Insects in range only can pray for their lives.

Praying mantis in different camouflage. Top: Toxodera hauseri, Bottom: Deropatlys truncata

6. Frog with horns. Is it evil?

Before the trip, I haven’t seen any horned frogs that are endemic to Borneo, so it’s high on my bucket list. Believe it or not. In a rainy evening, one of them just jumped to me in the camp. The one I met is known as the rough-backed horned frog (species: Borneophyrs edwardinae). It’s a brown-coloured medium-sized frog with horns above its eyes. Actually the “horn” is a drawn-out, slender, triangular projection from the eyelid. Horned frogs don’t intend to look like a devil, they need that leaf-like horns to hide among foliage.

Rough-backed horned frog (species: Borneophyrs edwardinae) is endemic to Borneo.

7. Hide and seek with leaf mimic pygmy grasshoppers

Though this insect is tiny and not as flamboyant as other famous insects, it’s a superstar among entomologists who love extraordinary insects. There are only four Borneo species of leaf mimic pygmy grasshoppers and you can find 2 or 3 of them just 15 metres outside the camp!

Leaf mimic pygmy grasshoppers (Paraphyllum antennatum) of Borneo. They are about 1cm in size but they have patterns and colouration that look like an art.

This is exciting as they have very limited distribution. However, it’s fairly hard to spot them as their colours blend into rock faces where they feed on algae. Put them under the magnifying glass and you would see something like a Sail-Backed Dimetrodon (dinosaur).

8. Moth that deceives with pictures

Besides camouflage, moths have another mean to fool predators. Many of them have “faked eyes” on their wings so they look like an owl or snake head.

Left: Macrocilix maia, with pictures of feeding flies on its wings. Right: the eye-like marking on the wings of Brahmid Moth (Brahmaea hearseyi) makes it looks like an owl.

The funniest strategy is employed by Macrocilix maia, a moth with wings that feature a picture of two flies feeding on a poo, to show that it is not delicious. It’s always jaw-dropping to see the work of nature. Who knows in future we would find a moth with a painting of Mona Lisa on its wings.

9. Misty cloud forest is a heaven for insects

Borneo Jungle Girl Camp is located about 1,170 metres above sea level, a highland zone dominated by lower montane forest (cloud forest). The dense forest is showered by fog, so the environment is cooling and humid, the most ideal habitat for insects, as many of them migrate uphill due to global warming and pesticides.

Borneo Jungle Girl Camp and its natural surrounding. The white things on the clear ground at the right are light traps.

Even if some tourists are not fond of bugs, they still come here for the refreshing air and nature touch.

10. Light trap, a magnet to insects

One of the fun activities at the camp is to check out the light traps at night. You know insects are attracted to light. Four light traps are set up on four corners of a ridge in the evening, then we went for dinner and waited for the insect show. We might lure some rare bugs out of the wood without searching hard.

There are four entomology light traps about 150 metres away from the camp. Photos by LeeLing

By the time we came back around midnight, the screens were already blanketed by hundreds of nocturnal bugs of different colours, sizes and shapes. Most of them are moths, with stick insects, beetles, mantis, cricket, grasshoppers, cicada, and katydid among them. Jimmy the camp manager, smiled and said, “in peak season between March and May, the screens would be totally covered and swarmed by insects. You couldn’t even walk near them.”

11. Moths are more diverse than butterflies

The light trap is like a stage for a fashion show by moths. Moths form a very large group, with about 10,000 species in Borneo, in different sizes, colours and forms. You are lucky if you see the gigantic Atlas Moth (species: Attacus atlas) with a wing span of 25 cm, which is among the biggest insects in the world.

There are about 10,000 species of moths in Borneo. Many species are yet to be fully described. The picture at the far left shows some big jet moths with aerodynamic shape.

Hawkmoth is a common visitor too, it’s nicknamed as Jet because of its hawk-like aerodynamic shape and super flying speed of 50 KM/H, the fastest in the insect Olympic. Some moths look like they are wearing a fur coat or Halloween costumes.

Altas moth is the largest insect in Borneo. Two variations of Altas Moth can be found at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp. Left: Attacus atlas, Right: Archaeoattacus staudingeri. Note their wing tips look like snake head. Photos by LeeLing

12. Crab + Spider = ?

You know crab and spider have eight legs but they are totally different creatures. If you can “merge” them, it would look like Crab Spider, Jewel Spider, or Parallel-spined Spiny Orbweaver Spider (Gasteracantha diardi). Despite its intimidating appearance, this spider is harmless to humans.

The bright-coloured Crab Spider is one of the most beautiful spiders in nature

Crab spiders fluoresce blue under ultraviolet light, which is to simulate the blooming flowers for luring the insects that use UV vision. You can bring some crab spiders to a disco night to see their cool UV effects.

13. Bird’s dropping that moves

Besides disguising themselves as a dead leaf or the eyes of predators, butterflies and moths have another camouflage tactic called “masquerade,” a defense that helps them look like inedible objects, such as twigs, stones or bird droppings. Bird’s dropping caterpillar is a great example of masquerade, which increases their survival rates by three times.

Bird’s dropping caterpillar looks and poses like a bird poo for a better survival rate. It doesn’t need to hide under the leaves.

Birds have better eyesight than humans, so it’s difficult to fool them. Therefore, a knobbly body with the correct poo colours isn’t enough. Some bird’s dropping caterpillars use bent posture to copy the look of a dollop of excrement.

14. Searching for peace and a sense of purpose? Go Stargazing

City people would think a description like “starry sky studded with diamonds” is just an exaggeration in the romance novels, until they visit a place that has no light and air pollution.

Milky Way in a starry night of Nuluhon Trusmadi Forest Reserve. Photo by LeeLing

Just come to Nuluhon Trusmadi during moonless days and witness it yourself. To see the Milky Way in its brightest time, the best months are between April and September.

15. Butterflies also loves smelly stuffs

Whenever we talk about butterflies, usually what comes to our mind is a picture of a butterfly foraging on a fragrant flower. What if I tell you that butterflies also love dung? On the way to the camp, I saw a group of butterflies sipping pee on the ground.

Butterflies puddling on the animal urine for minerals. The butterflies in the photos are: (1) Commander (Moduza procris agnata), (2) Abnormal Sergeant (Athyma clerica clerica), (3) Straight line mapwing (Cyrestis nivea borneensis), (4) Athyma selenophora amhara, and (5) Athyma assa pseudocama

In addition to the sweet nectar, butterflies also need some minerals (especially salt) and nutrients that are not available in flowers. You guessed it right. They obtain these from the pee and poo left by other animals. This strange behavior is called puddling, and is mostly seen in male butterflies, which need the materials for their reproduction system.

16. Stick insect the walking stick

At Borneo Jungle Girl Camp, don’t be surprised if you see a walking twig. Stick insect, as the name implies, is an insect that resembles a stick or twig, and it’s the longest insect in the world. Phobaeticus chani or Chan’s megastick, the second longest insect in world’s record (567 mm or 22.3 inches), is from Sabah. Their eggs are large and some village kids eat them like a snack.

Stick insect from Nuluhon Trusmadi. This one doesn’t have a name yet.

Some stick insects at the camp still wait to be named. Therefore, you can discover the new species there and name the ugly ones over your mother-in-law or boss. Some stick insects are capable of laying eggs without the need to mate with males to produce offspring. Crazy huh?

17. Birdwatching

Very few people know about this so it’s almost like a little secret. The montane forest near the camp is a great birdwatching site. Avid birders would be thrilled to see Bulwer’s pheasant, Bornean Pitta, Whitehead’s Broadbill, Red-naped Trogon, Red-bearded bee-eater and Black-and-yellow broadbill, just to list a few rare or famous ones.

Birds in Nuluhon Trusmadi forest. From left: Red-billed Malkoha, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Dark-necked tailorbird. Photos by LeeLing

If you are too lazy to walk, Temminck’s Sunbird, Bornean Bulbul and Bornean Laughing-thrush are always wondering near the camp.

18. Monkey loves bugs?

Monkey is omnivorous and banana is not its only food. But it’s only in my last trip that I first saw a pig-tailed macaque eating insects as a source of protein. It’s quite picky and only choose the big and juicy ones. The crunchy cicada sounds like its favourite snack and followed by jet moths.

Left: pig-tailed macaque eating insects. Right: the crime scene. You can tell most of them are big moths.

This monkey is one of the four macaques that always hang around the camp. They are probably old beta males that are expelled from the troop and form their own bachelor group. As a matter of fact, insects are nutrient-efficient compared to meat, and they may be the solution for the world hunger problem. It’s safe if our close cousins can eat it.

19. Cicada, the singing orchestra of rainforest

For the sound of rainforest, cicada is always the lead singer as it can produce a noise over 100 decibels, enough to cause hearing loss if you leave it singing next to your ears for long hours. The most interesting species is Pomponia merula, which is also known as Six O’Clock Cicada because they start buzzing at six. I want one as an alarm clock.

Left: 6 O’ Clock Cicada (Pomponia merula), native to Borneo. Photo by Pavel Kirillov. Right: 7 O’ Clock Cicada (Megapomponia imperatoria), photo by 57Andrew

Their counterpart in Peninsular Malaysia is 7 O’clock Cicada (Megapomponia imperatoria), which sings at 7pm (because sun sets 30 minutes slower in West Malaysia).

20. Borneo Jungle Girl Camp is more than a camp

After all the exciting activities in the forest, I only need a hot shower, some nice food and a cozy bed. I thought I was probably expecting too much from a jungle camp. A camping tent is more realistic in such a remote jungle. To my surprise, Borneo Jungle Girl Camp provides all these. They have clean and spacious bedrooms, and bathroom with hot shower. I have absolutely no problem (in fact, would love to) to stay over a month in the camp.

Borneo Jungle Girl Camp is located at 1,170 metres above sea level and surrounded by mountain range and rainforest

The food was yummy too and the cooling weather there boosted my appetite. During my stay, I had nasi lemak, BBQ, steamboat and even seafood. 4G network is available at certain spots in the camp. Electricity is available from 6pm to 6am.

We had fresh fish, meat, vegetables and fruit as lunch at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp, not instant noodle and canned food. We also had BBQ and steamboat the other day.

About Borneo Jungle Girl Camp

Borneo Jungle Girl Camp was established in 1986. With decades of experience in entomology, the founders believe that Nuluhon Trusmadi forest is the most ideal location for entomology studies and entotourism. During peak season, over 5,000 species of insects can be recorded at the site.

Building of Borneo Jungle Girl Camp. After a few expansion, the campsite is complete with electricity (half-day), bedrooms, dining hall, kitchen, toilets and other amenities.

Therefore, the founders spent most of their personal saving to fund the construction of the entomology camp, and they obtained the operation permit from the Sabah Forestry Department in 2006 for tourism, education and conservation on entomology. After a few phases of upgrade over the years, the humble camping tent is developed into a decent lodge complete with accommodation, dining hall, water and electricity, and other amenities that can host up to 60 guests. The camp has been an academic destination for hundreds of students from overseas universities in China and Japan, as well as local tourists who just want to chill.

Malay civet and porcupine, other residents around the campsite. You would see Kijang (barking deer), pig-tailed macaque, and slow loris too. Photos by LeeLing

You can contact the camp or follow their social media for more information:
Phone / Whatsapp: +60 16-4106078
E-mail: trusmadientomology@gmail.com
Website: www.trusmadientomology.com
Facebook: @trusmadientomologycamp
Instagram: @trus_madi_entomology_camp

Tour and Fees

As Borneo Jungle Girl Camp is situated in the fully protected Nuluhon Trusmadi forest, entry permits are required for visitors and vehicles, so walk-in tourists are not accepted. You can book a tour with Borneo Jungle Girl Camp and they will get the permit(s) for you. The following is the a list of the fees (USD1.00 is approximately RM4.40). Note: though these prices are valid until the end of 2022, they are subject to change:

NationalityEntry Permit (per person)Entry Permit (per vehicle)Camera
MalaysianRM15 per dayRM100RM5
Non-MalaysianRM30 per dayRM100RM5
*rates are subject to change

Accommodation (meals included)

Room rates per head on twin-sharing basis:

Visitor TypeStandard RoomVIP RoomChalet
MalaysianRM300RM400RM450
Non-MalaysianUSD120USD170USD190
Room rates of Borneo Jungle Girl Camp (valid until the end of 2022)
Rooms are available at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp. You don’t need to bring your sleeping bag and pillow.

The temperature at the camp can drop to between 10 and 16°C (50 – 61°F) at night, so bring some warming clothing such as a windbreaker. Daytime temperature is between 28 to 30°C (82 to 86°F). To see more wildlife, spending two or more nights is recommended.

Sunrise view from the balcony of VIP rooms at Borneo Jungle Girl Camp

How to get there

The distance between Kota Kinabalu City and Borneo Jungle Girl Camp (GPS Coordinates: 5.443048041703671, 116.45120820208399. See Location Map) is about 160 KM, which takes 3 hours and 30 minutes to travel one way. The first 128 KM is asphalt road with fair condition. The last 32 KM to the camp starts at the junction to Jalan Ranggom Kepayan in Apin-Apin (Keningau), which is an old logging road (mainly gravel road) only accessible by four-wheel drive.

You need a 4-wheel drive to reach Borneo Jungle Girl Camp

Don’t worry if you don’t own a 4WD. You can request the camp for a 4WD return transfer for a fee of RM450 per car (can fit in up to 4 tourists). You can park your car in the village of Apin-Apin, and they will pick you up there. If you want them to fetch you in Kota Kinabalu, the fee is RM1,100 (round trip) per car.

Things to Bring

  • MyKad / Passport
  • Cash
  • Extra clothing (overnight trip)
  • Jacket or warm clothing
  • Raincoat / poncho / umbrella
  • Drinking water
  • Plastic bags (for soiled clothing)
  • Toilet paper
  • Toiletries (toothbrush, tooth paste, face wash, etc.)
  • Towel
  • Power bank (portable charger) and phone charging cable
  • Snacks / energy bar
  • Sunblock lotion
  • Hat
  • Sandals / Slippers
  • Torchlight
  • Camera (with spared batteries and memory cards)
  • Personal medicines
  • Optional: swimwear, binocular, anti-leech socks
Left: beetle with jewel colours, Right: Ceroplophana modigliani beetle

My Thoughts

Insects being insects, they just do what they ought to do. No insect is bad. Allah / God creates all living things for a purpose. The insects keep our earth balanced and healthy. It’s up to the people to choose if they want to appreciate bugs and become the next Satoshi Tajiri, or let the unjustified fear of insects turns them into a wuss.

“If all insects on Earth disappeared, within 50 years all life on Earth would end. If all human beings disappeared from the Earth, within 50 years all forms of life would flourish.” – Jonas Salk

Photos taken in Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Rohaimin’s Rock Gallery, a wonder that rocks you

When is your last time picking up a stone and have a good look at it? Cavemen from stone age probably know rocks better than us because they constantly look for the best ones to make axe and cutting tools. Nowadays the only rocks that piqued people interest are rock concert and gemstones.

The Sakag Rohaimin’s Unique Rock Gallery (Galeri Batu Unik Sakag Rohaimin)

Though rocks are everywhere, each rock is unique. For 20 years, Mr. Rohaimin Ariffin has been collecting special rocks in Keningau, and he is rewarded by thousand of intriguing rocks, which are beautiful, weird or ugly.

Can you see the face of a demon?

90% of his collection come from Sungai Pegalan (Pegalan River) near to his house, and the rest are from Banggi Island, Lahad Datu, Kunak, Kinabatangan, etc. His friends also give him some rocks from New Zealand and Indonesia.

A rock with the word “Allah” in Jawi

In 2008, Rohaimin spent RM40,000 (≈US$10,000) to build a Rock Gallery named Galeri Batu Unik Sakag Rohaimin next to his house. From this, I can tell he must have a very nice wife who doesn’t nag at his hobby (just kidding). To hobbyists, rocks are priceless. To those who don’t appreciate, a rock, eh, is just a rock.

Clam and coral fossils from Sabah

Anyway, whether you are a collector, you will be amazed by his Rock Gallery. I would say this is the biggest gallery dedicated to rocks in Sabah so far. And he doesn’t sell any ticket to guest, it’s free to visit. Based on how he places the rocks, I roughly categorize his rock collections in following groups.

Music Rocks

Batu Gong (Gong Music Rock) forms one of his major collection. When you hit it, the rock will produce a gong like metallic sound. I had seen Batu Gong in Tambunan, but Rohaimin has larger collection!

This rock gallery costs more than RM40,000 to build and is totally self-funded

The “stage” of the gallery where you can perform a rock concert with music rocks.

There are hundred of Batu Gong laying around. He labels some rocks in different tones and group them on a stage. Below is a short video of Rohaimin playing “Rock Music” with Batu Gong:

Rohaimin can play very nice Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star and Mary had a Little Lamb song with these rocks. A guest was so impressed by the music that he wanted to buy this rock music set.

Religion

One of the most famous rocks he got is the one with the word Allah in Jawi. He also has other rocks with figures of praying muslims, Buddha, Mary, and Satan.

Al-Quran verse on the rock

According to him, the best time to hunt for rocks is after flood and storm, which expose new rocks under the soil. His rocks are not for sale. He even buys rock from others if it’s a nice addition to his collection.

The face of Mary, Mother of God in the rock

A stone that looks like a Buddha

Growing Rocks

Personally I think the most bizarre rocks in his gallery are the “growing rocks”. Over time, some hair-like substance would grow on these rocks, like some kind of crystallization. The “hair” is fragile and can break into powder when touched.

The “growing” rocks

The needle-like crystals keep growing on these rocks, probably a form of crystallization, like how fuzzy rocks formed.

According to Rohaimin, even the box that stores these rocks also has hair grown on the surface, so peculiar. He welcomes Tourism Ministry, Sabah Museum and Geoscience Department to find the answer of this odd phenomenon.

White crystalline hair or fuzz growing on the rocks. It is very fragile.

Fossils & Petrified Wood

The next eye openers are fossils and petrified wood. All the seashells, clam and coral fossils are from the center of Sabah. This proves that Sabah is under the ocean in the past.

Sabah has a lot of fossil shells even in interior, because our land was underwater millions years ago

I used to collect some fossils of Sabah, but they are not as impressive as his collection.

Fossil shells found in Sabah interior

Petrified wood is actually fossilized wood, and its organic part is replaced by other minerals, so only the shape of wood stays. That’s really cool.

This Petrified wood glitters if you light it with torch light

Petrified wood is fossilized wood

A beautiful petrified wood which costs Rohaimin RM800

Animal Heads and Shapes

Occassionally you would notice some rocks that look somewhat familiar to an animal. Rohaimin has some animal rocks that don’t need much imagination for you to tell they are puppy, proboscis monkey, fish, gorilla, Flowerhorn cichlid, sheep and chicken.

Rocks that looks like animal heads. I see a lion head among them.

Rohaimin says this looks like puppy, but it looks like Bulbasaur Pokemon to me lol

Nature Art

Rohaimin started his collection with a few odd and small black stones in 1996. Beautiful stones that have special shapes, materials, colors or patterns are also his target.

Various types of unique rocks

Stones with interesting shapes

Some of his most prized collections are stored in drawer or locker to prevent thievery. He would show them to you if he is around and you ask. Currently his rocks are laying around on the floor or being placed on surfaces of chair, desk and rack. He really needs adequate funding to setup showcase and display stands with proper lighting, to present his collections like art items.

Did you see the stone with Olympic logo?

Bone-shaped rock from Indonesia

Other Non-rocks

Besides rocks, Rohaimin also have other interesting items such as fossil deer horns, WW2 bombshells and old coins. The most impressive is his Bonsai that he has been nurturing for 20 years and some are award winners.

Other items on display. Note the WWII bombshells

Unusual horn of deer

“I don’t want the wives to feel bored, when their men are looking at rocks. These bonsai shall keep them busy,” Rohaimin says. That’s very considerate.

Bonsai tree cultivation at Rohaimin’s place. The unique rocks really enhance their artistry.

A remnant of bomb from WWII

Rohaimin is planning to move his rock and bonsai gallery to a place near to SK Binaong school, which is more accessible by big bus. He would need to apply for another loan for the new gallery building.

The antique bark cloth beater. In old days, people made clothing from tree bark, and this beater was used to beat the bark to make the material soft.

At the moment he is not collecting any visitor fee, so this is totally a self-funded project. If you visit his gallery, it’ll be nice if you would donate some money, no matter how small it is, that’ll bring him closer to his dream.

How to get there

Galeri Batu Unik Sakag Rohaimin (Rohaimin’s Rock Gallery) is about 12 KM away from Keningau town. It’s located in housing area of Kampung Baginda (Baginda Village). There is no direction signage and not all villagers there know this gallery.

Signage to Baginda Village at roundabout

However, you can find his gallery easily if you read the guide here. When you drive away from Keningau using the road heading to Tambunan town, you will reach a roundabout after 9 KM (see Location Map or 3D Street View). Take the road to Kampung Baginda (the sign is just next to the big blue sign of St. Mary’s Church).

Many cows and landmines (cow dung) on the road of Baginda Village

You will enter a small and paved countryside road. Drive carefully to avoid the roaming cows, dungs and speed bumps along the way. Follow the main road for about 3 KM and you will reach a Y junction at the end of paved road. Turn left to the road labeled as JLN. Binaong Baginda (see Street View).

The rock gallery is at the house of Mr. Rohaimin

Keep driving on the gravel road. In a minute or two, turn left to a small path before a downward slope. You will enter residential area with a few houses, and Rohaimin’s house is at the end (GPS Coordinate: 5.375564, 116.204871, see Location Map)

The house of Rohaimin. The entrance to the Rock Gallery is where the yellow arrow points.

Rock is more important than we think. For example, without ultrabasic rocks that promote the growth of endemic plant, Kinabalu Park would not become an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hope more people will find some fun in this little wonder of geotourism. For more info on the gallery, you may text (Whatsapp available) or call Rohaimin at +60-13-8730559. Please note this is a personal number and he has a daytime job, so use it discreetly and don’t disturb him.

Photos taken in Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Guide to Climbing Mt. Trusmadi (Mt. Trus Madi)

Mount Trus Madi (or Mt. Trusmadi) is the second highest mountain (2,642 Meters or 8,668 ft) of Malaysia. Albeit 1,453 Meters lower than Mount Kinabalu (4,095 Meters), climbing Mt. Trusmadi is more challenging, so it offers a thrilling experience for adventure seekers. Many tourists who have conquered Mt. Kinabalu are also keen to give it a try. If you are physically fit and exercise regularly, you would find Mt. Trus Madi is very climbable even though the trail is less tourist-friendly.

The peaks of Mt. Trus Madi

The facilities of Trusmadi have improved tremendously in past few years (especially the Tambunan side), so it has become a hot destination. Mt. Trus Madi is located in Trus Madi Forest Reserve (Code: FMU-10 = Forest Management Unit No.10), so you need to apply entry permit from Sabah Forestry Department for the climb. This article provides the most complete and updated information to help you planning the climb.

Overview of 3 Summit Trails to Mt. Trus Madi

Climbing Mt. Trus Madi can be done in 2 to 4 days, depends on the trail you pick. There are three summit trails that lead to the highest peak of Mt. Trus Madi, i.e.:

  1. Kaingaran Trail in Tambunan
  2. Mannan Trail in Keningau
  3. Mastan Trail in Sook

Location map of Mt. Trus Madi & starting points of 3 summit trails

These trails have different climbing distance, starting point, road accessibility, level of difficulty and facilities on the mountain. Picking the trail is your first step to plan the climb. Kaingaran Trail (Tambunan) is the most popular choice because its climbing distance is shorter (4.9 KM) and the facilities are the most developed. Mannan Trail (Keningau) is the second best choice. Though the climb takes 4 days, the view along the trail is more beautiful and you don’t need a 4-Wheel Drive.

The following table is a comparison of three trails (can click to enlarge):

Table: Comparison of 3 summit trails to Mt. Trus Madi

Since these three summit trails are connected to one another on the summit, you also can choose to ascend and descend to different points for more fun. For example, you can climb up the mountain via Kaingaran Trail from Tambunan, but climb down via Mannan Trail to Keningau, if you are able to arrange your return transport waits at other end.

Below are more detail reviews of three summit trails to Mt. Trusmadi:

1. Kaingaran Trail

Kaingaran Trail is the oldest and most developed trail. I climbed Mt. Trus Madi via this trail in year 2010. However, the climb is much more enjoyable and easier nowadays because of upgraded trail and accommodation.

Kaingaran Trail of Tambunan

Climbing Distance: 4.9 KM (require 2 day 1 night)
Location: Tambunan District
Starting Point: 27 Km (2.5 hours drive) from Tambunan Town (mainly gravel road. The last 6 KM road trip needs 4-Wheel Drive)
Accommodation: Mirad Irad Base Camp (foothill), Rest House (at 2.9 KM of mountain trail)

Mirad Irad Base Camp of Mt. Trus Madi in Tambunan

You can spend one extra night at Mirad Irad Base Camp of Mt. Trus Madi (7 KM before starting point (20 min drive) and 900 Meters above sea level), if you want to start your climb very early in next morning. The accommodation at Base Camp can accommodate 24 people, and camping (Fee: RM10) is allowed. The room rate is RM20 per night per person. Please note you MUST book 1 month in advance.

Taman Kitingan: Starting point in Tambunan (Kaingaran Trail)

If you start your climb on day 1 from Kota Kinabalu City (KK), you need to drive about 4 hours from KK to starting point in Tambunan, very likely you will start your climb around noon, which is kind of late. That’s why some climbers prefer to stay an extra night in Mirad Irad Base camp or hotel in Tambunan.

Plank walk & boardwalk in summit trail at Tambunan (Kaingaran Trail)

The first 3 KM of Kaingaran Trail is boardwalk. It’s leech-free and makes climbing more like hiking.

Taliban Point, which is named after OKK Taliban, the 1st native chief of Tambunan and has nothing to do with terrorist.

Toilet in summit trail to Mt. Trus Madi

One of the shelters in Kaingaran Trail (Tambunan)

Summit trail to Mt. Trus Madi (Kaingaran Trail, Tambunan)

Mt. Trus Madi Rest House (only available for Kaingaran Trail)

There is only one accommodation on Mt. Trus Madi and about 2.9 KM away from the summit. The Rest House has 5 rooms, each with 4 bunk beds, and able to host 20 people at a time. The fee per person is RM20-RM100 per night per bed. The amenities are quite basic, water supply and lighting are available.

Mt. Trus Madi Rest House looks like a long house

Accommodation on Mt. Trus Madi. Guide and Porter camp under the Rest House if the rooms are full.

Bunk beds in Rest House. It costs RM20-100 per night per person.

Kitchen of the Rest House. only tour operator can cook.

Toilet of the Rest House

Rest House on Mt. Trus Madi

The following video gives a good overview of Kaingaran Trail, with a lot of aerial views of Mirad Irad Base Camp, Mt. Trusmadi Rest House and the summit:

The next two trails are relatively new and located in Keningau District (Sook is a sub-district of Keningau).

Mastan (left) and Mannan (right) Trails at Keningau District

There is no accommodation in Mastan and Mannan Trails, so you will need to bring your own camping and cooking gears. This means you need to carry more weight, making the climb tougher. You can hire porters to share your burden. The camping fees are RM3 and RM5 for Malaysian and foreigner respectively.

2. Mannan Trail

Though Mannan Trail takes the longest time (4 day 3 night), many adventurers love its scenic view and pristine route. Another advantage is – you don’t need a 4-wheel drive to travel to the starting point.

View of Mt Trus Madi from Kg. Sinua (KM2.4 point to summit)

Climbing Distance: 11.6 KM (require 4 day 3 night)
Location: Sinua Village (Kampung Sinua), Sook (Keningau District)
Starting Point: 103 KM of paved road (3 hours drive) from Keningau Town. Good road condition. No need 4-Wheel Drive.
Accommodation: Camping and Resting Platform only

K.S. Khiong Point (4,200M) of Mannan Trail, one of the camping sites

The GoPro video below gives you a good idea of trail condition in Mannan Trail:

If you want the most detail video walk-through, you may check out the 56-minute video below:

3. Mastan Trail

Mastan Trail is very “raw” and the least developed. I have very little information about this trail. Judging from the map, Mastan Trail is the shortest (4.3 KM) but the steepest. You see, Mastan Trail is only 600 Meters shorter than Kaingaran Trail (Tambunan), which has far better trail and facilities, of course most climbers will go for the more relaxing option.

Taman Bunga (Garden Peak) of Mastan Trail

Climbing Distance: 4.3 KM (require 2 day 1 night)
Location: Apin-Apin, Keningau District
Starting Point: 76 KM (4 hours drive) from Keningau Town. Bad road, accessible only by 4-Wheel Drive.
Accommodation: Camping

Toilets in Mastan Trail

Some village folks there have been doing day climb via this trail. Anyway, if you have only 2 days and want to see the most of Mt. Trus Madi, you may ascend via Kaingaran Trail on day 1 and descend via Mastan Trail on day 2.

The Summit

The flora of Trusmadi is very diverse and fascinating, where almost 600 species of 160 families of plants have been recorded here. Remember to get your certificate if you make it to the top (RM10 fee applies).

Nepenthes Trusmadiensis is a pitcher plant endemic to Mt. Trus Madi

Nepenthes trusmadiensis is the natural hybrid between Nepenthes lowii and Nepenthes macrophylla, you would see it when you are close to the summit.

The highest point of Mt. Trus Madi (2,642 Meters)

You can see Mt. Kinabalu clearly on Mt. Trus Madi

When you reach the summit of Mount Trusmadi at dawn, if the weather is good, you will be mesmerized by a breath-taking view of Mount Kinabalu, which lies about 40 KM to the north.

New! 5-Meter Viewpoint Tower 100 Meter from the summit of Mt. Trus Madi (at Jiran Point)

How much does the climbing trip cost?

The total fee varies greatly, depending on the trail and services that you select. Below is a list of basic fees (in Malaysian Ringgit (MYR)).

Malaysian Foreigner
Climb Permit 30 80
Entrance Fee 5 15
Vehicle Permit 100 100
Accommodation (1 night)* 100 100
Forestry Guide (2 days) 100 200
TOTAL: 335 (≈USD$95) 495 (≈USD$140)

*For Rest House only. Replace this with camping fee if you don’t use Tambunan trail

The final cost can range from RM400 to RM800 per person, after you include other variable and optional fees such as rental of 4-Wheel Drive (RM800/day per car), insurance, transport (gasoline), food & personal supplies, porter, certificate (RM10), etc. You can save more money by going in group, so you can split the cost on transportation and guide fee.

Enjoying the mountain view from the tower

If you have more questions, you may contact the Forestry Officers listed below:

1. Tambunan

Contact Person: Mr. Saleh Intang, District Forestry Officer (“DFO”) of Tambunan
Address: Pejabat Perhutanan Daerah Tambunan, Peti Surat No 64, 89657, Tambunan, Sabah, Malaysia
Tel: +60 88-899589
Fax: +60 88-899588
E-mail: saleh.intang@sabah.gov.my

2. Keningau / Sook

Contact Person: Mr. Azman Said, District Forestry Officer (“DFO”) of Keningau
Address: Pejabat Perhutanan Daerah Keningau, Peti Surat No 88, 89007, Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia
Tel: +60 87-331203
Fax: +60 87-338721
E-mail: azman.said@sabah.gov.my

Tour Operators

If your budget permits, you should consider hiring a tour operator to arrange the climbing trip for you. The cost will be higher, but they will save you the problems on paperwork (permit), 4-wheel drive transport, camping, cooking, etc. I strongly recommend the following tour operators, who are experienced in adventure trips:

1. TYK Adventure Tours

Address: Block E, Lot 38, 2nd Floor, Damai Plaza IV, Luyang, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia
Tel: +60 88-232821
Website: www.tykadventuretours.com
E-mail: thamyaukong@gmail.com
Fax: +60 88-232827

2. Mount Trusmadi Travel & Tour Tambunan

Address: Lot No. 5, Kedai Tepi Sungai Tondulu, Majlis Daerah Tambunan, 89657 Tambunan, Sabah, Malaysia
Tel: +60 87–771312
Mobile Phone: +60 19-8831568
E-mail: widuresorttbn@yahoo.com

By the way, currently Sabah Forestry Department only has 16 mountain guides. During peak season, they may not have enough manpower to guide the climbers. They would disapprove your climb in that case. Therefore, I advise you to register a few months before the climb, to secure the limited capacity.

Useful Slides

Most of the information here is extracted from the following slides by Sabah Tourism Board and Sabah Forestry Department. You may download them for further reading. Also special thanks to Mr. Tham Yau Kong and Mike Miki from TYK Adventure Tours for contributing the photos. (Note: some info is inconsistent in different slides. I’ll correct them once I confirm the details).

Overview of Mt. Trusmadi, e.g. photos of road condition, starting points, accommodations, facilities, itineraries.

Useful info for planning the tour, e.g. booking and reservation procedures, various fees (permit, entrance, forestry guides), application forms and checklist of Things to Bring.

This slide contains some latest photos of the trails.

Please feel free to leave your question in comment section below, I’ll try my best to answer.

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Glow Worm of Borneo

Night walk in Borneo rainforest always excites me, as I would stumble upon something cool, weird or even creepy. Besides firefly, many bugs can glow. Many had been telling me about a worm that glows in the dark but I never saw one. My luck came when I did a night walk in Crocker Range Park two weeks ago.

As it was a cold night in the month of Ghost Festival, it was kind of eerie to see something like ghost fire moving in the dark. When I shined my flashlight to the yellow-green color glow, I saw only a bug crawling on forest floor. When I moved the light away, the glow appeared again. Then I confirmed that this bug emitted the light. It looks more like a millipede though.

You have no idea how happy I am to see glow worm the first time, I’ve been looking for for one for years! This glow worm is a larvae of the beetle from Lampyridae (firefly) family (Thanks to Arthur Y.C. Chung for the ID). In the photos, you can see the yellow light on its tail, which glows through bioluminescence (the production and emission of light by a living organism).


Pic: glow worm can roll its body like a millipede

The glow is a “cold light” and it serves as a warning signal to predators such as frog. In fact, this larvae is mildly toxic. I put it on my hand and felt that its body was cold.

Its glow should be in yellow-green color, but I couldn’t replicate the color in photograph under strong light. You can see its glow is shown as yellow-green in the dark:

Cool huh? I know there are other types of glow worm. I’ll share with you if I see more. Wish me luck.

Photos taken in Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Yellow Dragon Fruit

Dragon Fruit (or pitaya) is one of the favorite fruits of Malaysians and has been planted commercially in Sabah for some years. It is only recently I learn that, besides the two flavors, i.e. white and red flesh, our dragon fruit also has the “third”, and best, flavor.


Pic: the brightly red-skin dragon fruit is a familiar sight when I walked around fruit & vege shops


One day I saw some yellow fruits next to the red dragon fruit. They are small and ugly, but they cost twice more than the normal dragon fruit. Then someone told me that this was a yellow dragon fruit planted in Keningau district. They are only available in small quantity so people don’t see them often.


Pic: to have some fun, I put 3 types of dragon fruits side by side and photograph them for comparison. From left: Red-fleshed Dragon Fruit, Yellow Dragon Fruit and White-fleshed Dragon Fruit.

1. White-fleshed Dragon Fruit

Also known as Pitahaya blanca, its skin is red and the flesh is white color.


Note its shape is oval. It is priced at RM8 (≈USD2.70) per Kilogram (KG).


White-fleshed Dragon Fruit is the first introduced species. It was used to be the most common dragon fruit in fruit market. However, its taste is bland, with mild sweetness and sourness, if compared to the more popular Red-fleshed Dragon Fruit.

2. Red-fleshed Dragon Fruit

It’s also called Pitahaya roja, its skin is red too, as is the flesh. In photo below, you can see it has round shape.


Due to stronger sweetness and flavor, Red-fleshed Dragon Fruit has replaced White-fleshed Dragon Fruit in fruit market.


It’s sold for RM10 (≈USD3.30) per KG. You can find it almost all year round.

3. Yellow Dragon Fruit

The official name of this least-known species is Pitahaya amarilla. They are cultivated in Keningau in small amount. They are sold out fast before others know about such fruit. The sellers told me that the peak fruiting season of Yellow Dragon Fruit is between Oct and Dec. Yellow Dragon Fruit is also sold in other months, but in very limit quantity.


Yellow Dragon Fruit is the smallest among the 3, but the sweetest and most expensive, which is RM20 (≈USD6.70) per KG. You can find Yellow Dragon Fruit at fruit & vegetables shops of Foh Sang and Bornion in Kota Kinabalu, but it’s not always available.


However, the taste of Yellow Dragon Fruit is the BEST! Its sweetness is double of Red-fleshed Dragon Fruit, and it has no sour taste.


Pic: 3 kinds of dragon fruits on one plate, yummy..


Pic: “mixed” dragon fruit feast after the photography session LOL.

Interesting Facts about Dragon Fruit


Red dragon fruit juice is delicious and it can turn your poo into reddish color next day, it’s harmless so don’t be shocked.


Dragon fruit is not native to Malaysia. It originates from South and Central America. The vine of wild dragon fruit can crawl high up to the tree.


Dragon fruit is a member of cactus family.


The flower of Dragon fruit can be consumed as tea.


Pic: dragon fruit plantation in Balung, Tawau

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Crocker Range Park (part 4 of 4)

Continued from Part 3…

(You may start reading from Part 1)

You may skip this article if you don’t plan to stay in Crocker Range Park. Please refer to the layout map below for the location of the accommodation in the Park:

The altitude of Crocker Range Park HQ is 850 to 1,000 Meters, with temperature ranges from 18°C to 26°C (64°F to 79°F). As it’s highland, it is cool in the morning, quite similar to Kinabalu Park. Please do bring warm clothing with you.

To stay in the Park, you have a choice of dormitory room, standard room, luxury room and camping. In total, the park has 4 chalets, 1 detached house (4 rooms for 22 pax), 60 dormitory beds, and a big camping ground.

Kayu Manis Lodge (Asrama Kayu Manis)

This cabin is the most suitable for a group of students and teachers up to 40 people. There are 2 family rooms with queen-sized bed and 2 single beds, 3 rooms with 6 single beds, 2 rooms with 8 singles beds, common bathroom with hot shower, spacious living room and a kitchen with complete cooking and dining facilities.


Pic: Bunk-beds Dormitory, RM30 (≈USD9) per bed per night


Pic: Family Room, RM125 (≈USD38) per room per night

You may watch the 1-min video of Kayu Manis Lodge below:

Click Here to see bigger video

Chalets

Bayan and Pine Chalets are just next to Kayu Manis Lodge. There are 4 units of chalets with king sized bed and attached bathroom (with hot shower).


Pic: Room of Chalet, RM180 (≈USD55) per room per night

Lodges

Orchid and Rafflesia Lodges are also next to Kayu Manis Lodge.


Pic: Orchid and Rafflesia Lodges of Crocker Range Park


Pic: Rafflesia Lodge has 1 family room with a queen size bed and 2 single beds, 3 rooms with 6 single beds, 2 rooms with 12 bunk beds, and common bathroom with hot shower.


Pic: Orchid Lodge has 1 family room with a queen size bed and 2 single beds, 3 rooms with 6 single beds, 2 rooms with 8 sinle beds, and common bathroom with hot shower.


Family Room of Orchid and Rafflesia Lodges costs RM150 (≈USD45) per room per night. Single Bed Dormitory costs RM40 per bed per night.

You may watch the 1-min video of hostels below:

Click Here to see bigger video

Camping Ground

The four huts of camping ground can accommodate about 20 people. There are male and female toilets+shower rooms nearby. Camping fee is about RM20 (≈USD6) per person per night. You need to bring your own camping tent.

There is a shelter nearby for group activity and BBQ.


You may watch the 1-min video of camping site below:

Booking

You can book the rooms online or contact Manis Manis Rooftop of Borneo Resort (see contact below) for accommodation booking or updated room rates. Their rooms can be fully booked during peak season and school holiday.

Manis Manis Rooftop of Borneo Resort
Address: Batu 8, Taman Banjaran Crocker, Jalan Kimanis-Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia.
Resort Mobile: +60 19-809 8683
Sales Office (KK): +60 88-719900, +60 88-719911
E-mail: sales@manismanisresort.com
Facebook: Manis Manis ‘Rooftop of Borneo’ Resort – Crocker Range National Park

Bus to Crocker Range Park

You may take a bus to Keningau in bus station at Merdeka Field (Padang Merdeka) in Kota Kinabalu city. Ask the bus driver to drop you in front of Crocker Range Park (Taman Banjaran Crocker), which is 14 Kilometers before Keningau town. The bus fare costs about RM15 one way and depart in morning (the earliest is 7am or 7:30am) and afternoon. To go home, you may arrange with the same bus company on the returning trip. They can pick you up in front of the Park when they head to Kota Kinabalu. FYI, you also can find their phone number on the bus ticket.

More Photos

You may check out the photo album of Crocker Range Park for more nice pictures:

All Articles

Part 1: Crocker Nature Center, Insectarium, Fern Garden & Rafflesia Plot
Part 2: Crocker Trail, Pine Trail & Observatory Tower
Part 3: Night Walk
Part 4: Accommodation in the Park (this article)

Photos taken in Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Crocker Range Park (part 3 of 4)

Continued from Part 2…

(You may start reading from Part 1)

Here comes the highlight of my trip in Crocker Range Park, the night walk! I did two night walks, 1st night in Insectarium, and 2nd night in 2.036KM Crocker trail. You see nothing much in both places during daytime, but they turn into a busy world when night falls. If you are interested in night walk, you can arrange in advance with the Park at Administration Office or Crocker Nature Center during office hours. They will send a ranger to guide you. Usually the walk starts at 7:30pm.

Night Walk in Insectarium


For my 1st night walk in Insectarium, the Park sends two ladies to accompany me, wow. They asked, “would you mind if the guide is female?” I smiled and replied, “No… Of course not” (why should I, hehe..). Oh, by the way, the lady at the left is Tomomi Kan, a Japanese volunteer from JICA. At the right is Lucy Suin, a Sabah Parks staff.


No kidding… these girls have sharp eyes. They started to discover bugs the moment we stepped into Insectarium. Normally girls will scream when they see bugs. However, these girls are so happy to find creepy creatures in the dark, like enjoying a treasure hunt. With the aid of torchlight, we search every inch of Insectarium and left no leaf unturned.


One by one, the bugs reveal themselves under their torchlight. I wonder how they did it. Probably they are so used to insect collection. Crocker Range Park has over 400 species of insects, making the Park one of the best spots for collecting specimen.


Above: this might be a Malaysian Earth Tiger (Cyriopagopus thorelli) tarantula spider


Above: a cricket disguised as the tip of leaf!

There are more bugs discovered when we moved closer to the pond and stream areas. It was such a joyful experience!


Above: an agamid that can change color in minute


Above: a very long stick insect found by Lucy, the highlight of the 1st night walk.

It started to rain at 10pm, so we had to stop our night walk and said goodbye to each other. Anyway, I’m really happy to bag so many good shots.

Night Walk in Crocker Trail

Because of the exciting experience, I decided to arrange another night walk in Crocker Trail (2.036 KM) next day. This time the Park sends Mr. Rosandy Angkusup to guide me. I feel sorry to make them work until late night in fasting month (Puasa), so I tipped all the guides. Same as the lady guides, Rosandy has a trained eyes to beat the smart camouflage by bugs, especially stick insects.


Above: a moulting cicada. The moulting was so slow that we couldn’t wait until it finished.



Above: the cotton-like substance is a group of Wooly aphid insect, amazing…


We saw at least 3 fireflies in the jungle.

It is so impressive that crickets can look so different to one another.


Above: this alien-like cricket was shown in National Geographic channel before. The Crocker Trail is far more promising because the trail is inside the real forest.


Besides bugs, we also saw a Shama bird sleeping on tree, a mouse deer, heard the loud barking of a barking deer (probably smell our presence) and 2 civets at the edge of primary rainforest. We would get some if we carry hunting rifle, haha. Of course, poaching is prohibited in national park.



Above: giant river toad

Stick Insects

Rosandy is so professional in spotting stick insects (I always miss it!). I never saw so many stick insects in one night, nor do I know stick insects have so many species and variety. Some can play dead and some can release foul smell as a defense. Some can fly while some can’t. But all of them have one thing in common – they look like stick.


Above: very long stick insect

We moved so slowly that the night walk ended at 12:30am and our torchlight was almost out of battery. This is the best night walk I’ve had. I’ll be back one day.

WARNING: I know this blog would attract insect collectors. Please be informed that collection of any flora & fauna in national park without a permit, whether the subject is dead or alive, is a serious offense. You will be fined heavily or even jailed for illegal collection. Crocker Range National Park is NOT a place for you to look for toy pet!!!

Click Here for Next Article (part 4)

More Photos

You may check out the photo album of Crocker Range Park for more nice pictures:

All Articles

Part 1: Crocker Nature Center, Insectarium, Fern Garden & Rafflesia Plot
Part 2: Crocker Trail, Pine Trail & Observatory Tower
Part 3: Night Walk (this article)
Part 4: Accommodation in the Park

Photos taken in Keningau, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

More Night Walk photos:
Miki Survival Camp