Job’s Tears, also known as adlay or adlay millet, is locally referred to as Dalai or Jelai in Sabah. This plant looks like a cross between corn and grass, and its hard-shelled, woody seeds are nicknamed the “Pearls of the Borneo Jungle” (Mutiara Rimba) due to its glossy surface and teardrop shape, providing a glimmering touch to ornaments. It has been utilized in traditional medicine, food, and crafts for centuries and is often associated with good luck, prosperity, and spiritual healing.
Left: Dalai plant and the seeds. Right: This is not the Dalai we are talking about (Photo credit: Image by Bishnu Sarangi from Pixabay).
The Dalai plant is a tall, grain-bearing, perennial tropical plant scientifically known as Coix Lacryma-Jobi. The wild variety, Coix lacryma-jobi var. lacryma-jobi, has hard-shelled pseudocarps. The Dalai seeds naturally come with pre-existing holes, eliminating the need for artificial puncturing. The beads are strung together to to create various crafts, including rosaries (prayer beads), jewelry, bead curtains, and fashion accessories.
Job’s tears have historically been used as beads to make necklaces and other traditional accessories.
Artisans have been using Dalai beads in jewelry since 3000 B.C. Dalai has a long history as part of indigenous fashion in Sabah. I’ve observed Dalai seeds being used in the traditional costumes of the Dusun Kiulu, Dusun Liwan, Dusun Tindal, Dusun Tagahas, Dusun Malapih, and Tombonuo, the native tribes from the western and northern parts of Sabah. Dalai is primarily worn as accessories, such as necklaces, bracelets and belts. According to Wikipedia, other Borneo tribes such as Dayak, Kelabit and Kayan also use Job’s tears in their costumes.
Sinulamba dress of Dusun Kiulu decorated by Dalai seeds
The Dusun from Kiulu use Dalai extensively in the embroidery and decoration of their Sinulamba dress, one of the most unique garments and heritages in Sabah. The Sunduk, a hood covering the head or hair, represents the dignity of a woman, while the Kurilib, cross shoulder sashes, symbolize a loving woman.
Dusun from Kiulu and TamparuliLeft: Dalai seeds will turn grey or brown colour when they are ripe. Right: Dusun Malapih from Papar
The variations in shades of grey and beige give Dalai seeds a natural appearance. Over time, Dalai seeds become shinier when in contact with the skin of their owners. For instance, rosaries made with Dalai beads may transition from a light grey to a shiny, warm chestnut brown color after being held many times during prayers. Saint Teresa of Calcutta was known to pray with Dalai rosaries.
Dalai necklaces, bracelets and earrings of Dusun Tindal
While Job’s Tears grains can be consumed as a cereal, such usage is not widespread in Sabah. The cultivated varieties, known for their soft shells, are more preferred for food. Job’s Tears is also commonly sold as Chinese pearl barley. Additionally, some Kadazandusun communities in Sabah make a decoction from Dalai leaves as a traditional herbal remedy for treating coughs or fevers.
Dalai seeds can mix with other beads and materials to make beautiful crafts.
Dalai is a fast-growing and easy-to-cultivate plant that demands minimal water and fertilizer. It can reach a height of about six feet and thrive in various soil types and climates. Germination typically occurs as early as seven days after sowing, with flowering taking approximately five months.
From left to right: Tombonuo Bobolian, Tombonuo girls, Dusun Kiulu and Dusun Tagahas (from Kota Marudu)
Job’s Tears derives its name from the story of the prophet Job, as mentioned in the Bible and the Quran. Job, a devout follower of God/Allah, faced a challenge to his faith when Satan caused him to lose his wealth, children, and health. Despite enduring a life of misery, Job did not complain. Throughout his ordeal, he remained steadfast in his belief and continued to love God as always. In the end, God rewarded Job with more than he had before. According to legend, when the tears of Job touched the soil, tall grasses sprouted, bearing oval seeds resembling his tears. This is how the name ‘Job’s Tears’ came about.
Creative designs of Dalai seeds. The dalai suit at the right is created by Madam Jusnah Jinos from Kg Bitoon (Ranau).
Dalai seeds come in over 10 variations of colors, shapes, and sizes, such as Tuntul, Watu, Oitom, providing artisans with ample creative possibilities in design. For more information on buying, planting, or learning about Dalai, you can contact the following groups via their Facebook pages:
After making your friends envious with your Sabah vacation photos in social media, let’s buy them some souvenirs, so they can get a share of your happiness. In this article is a list of recommended items to impress them, all fulfill three criteria of a good souvenir:
Exotic and unique local products
Easy to pack and not overly big or fragile
Good quality and look decent
Icons of Sabah: Orangutan, Sompoton, and Mount Kinabalu
To make the souvenir special and personal, give some thoughts into what the receiver loves, don’t just buy random things in the airport in last minute. It’s a plus if the souvenir shows iconic elements of Sabah such as orangutan, long-nosed monkey, hornbill, pitcher plant, wakid (basket), Mount Kinabalu, sompoton (music instrument), rafflesia flower and native motif.
1. Sabah Tea
10 out of 10 Sabahans will recommend you to buy Sabah Tea.Sabah Tea is harvested from the only organic tea plantation of Borneo. It’s a household brand. You can get a small pack for only a few bucks, or buy those with beautiful gift packs. Sabah Tea also has a few flavors such as Pandan (my favorite!). If you are a real tea lover, go for tea leaves rather than tea bags. Now you can order these from Sabah Tea online shop.
Sabah Tea in different packing and flavors
2. Tenom Coffee
Tenom Coffee is also another best choice. You can’t go wrong with Tenom Coffee. Just imagine the nice aroma that reminds your friends about you. Tenom is a highland town in Sabah interior and famous for its fruits. Some Tenom Coffee are sold in funky and colourful packs. Besides standard coffee, you may consider white coffee or the ones with special ingredients such as durian and Tongkat Ali (a herb that improves vitality).
Tenom Coffee is a popular buy among tourists
3. Lihing Wine
Drinking is an important part of Sabah culture. Lihing is Sabah’s signature wine that we can’t live without. This golden distilled rice wine tastes sweet and can be used in cooking too. My mom uses it to make delicious drunken chicken. Most lining is homemade, but tourists can find some sold commercially in nice bottles, some even have fruit flavors like mango and rambutan. As Lihing is a liquor, do check with your airline and customs for regulations if you want to bring some home.
Sabah Lihing: Homemade Vs Commercial
4. Snacks
How about some delightful and interesting treats for your friends? Once you start, you just can’t stop. You can find many types of Sabah snacks, and you should stuff the following yummy snacks into your bags:
Crispy Peanuts: peanuts fried with mix of flour, garlic, salt, and sugar.
Kuih Cincin: a sweet and tasty cookie. Go well with tea break.
Amplang: crunchy and savoury cracker that looks like marshmallow. Available in fish, prawn and squid flavors.
Sabah Chocolate: comes with pretty boxes and different flavors
If your return flight takes less than 8 hours, you can buy some fruit popsicle (ice-cream potong) at the airport, the shop will seal it tightly in a styrofoam box so it can last until you reach home.
Ice-Cream Potong (packing may vary)
5. Stingless Bee Honey
Ok you want to be healthy, stingless bee honey is for you then. Stingless Bee (locally known as Kelulut) is a small honeybee that lives in warm climate, and they produce sourish sweet honey that claims to have better medical properties. This honey is more expensive than normal honey. A small bottle can cost RM35 or more.
Stingless bee honey
6. Handicraft & Artworks
The most distinct souvenirs are handicrafts from indigenous people of Sabah. They are mainly made of materials from bamboo, rattan, palm, coconut, pandan leaves, etc. Some people are creative to weave these into diary items such as baskets, tissue box, wallet, and handbag. Each ethnic group has different patterns and style. For example, Bajau people love to use bold colors and Rungus is skilled in weaving beads. Personally I like to store some items into a bright-coloured Serdang box to make a gift.
Variety of handicraft created by Dusun, Bajau, Rungus and Murut people of Sabah
For those who appreciate advanced craftsmanship and collectible items, you may check out the Lepa-Lepa boat figure, Dastar or Tinohian (richly embroidered / weaved traditional cloth), Bajau machete (parang), and Sompoton. If you want the finest painting or folk art by local talents, you may visit Sabah Art Gallery or Laman Seni near Wisma Budaya.
From left to right: Traditional Machete / Dagger, Lepa-Lepa sailboat figure, and some artworks by Fara in Laman Seni (Wisma Budaya)
7. Apparel and Accessories
T-shirt with Sabah graphics is available everywhere, but after travelling hundreds of miles to Sabah, you want something more than a I♥Sabah T-Shirt right. Sabah batik is what smart tourists buy. Sabah batik is usually dyed and painted with native motif or other cultural drawing. Shawls, scarf, sash, tapestries, fabric, and table runner with colourful Sabah theme are tourists’ favorites too. A visit to KadaiKu and Chanteek Borneo won’t disappoint you.
T-shirt, Sabah clothing and Batik
Don’t forget hand-weaven beadworks and accessories too (e.g. string necklace, bracelet, earring, handbag, wallet), which can add some exotic touch to your fashion. Many West Malaysians also like to buy the freshwater pearls of Sabah, as the price isn’t high. If you want precious jewelries with Sabah elements, you can visit CherleC.
Traditional beadwork and Sabah pearls (at KadaiKu)
8. Toys
Got kids? Get them a cute plush toy of orangutan or proboscis monkey, the most charismatic wildlife of Borneo, even adults love it. Another alternative is lovely dolls dressed in traditional costumes.
Toys of Sabah (Disclaimer: Pixie Lott and Hong Kong artistes received Sabah plush toys as gift, they are not promoting it.)
9. Dried or Salted Seafood
I leave this item near the end because non-Asians are not so fond of dried seafood. However, for tourists from East Asia, these are great buy at a bargain price. Sabah is blessed with seafood, so you can find tons of high quality dried or salted fishes, sea cucumber, scallops, shrimps, squid, seaweed, ikan bilis (anchovy fish) and fish maw here.
Dried Seafood of Sabah
Most dried seafood stalls are just next to fish market, to name a few, KK Central Market, Sandakan Central Market and Tawau Tanjung Market. The hawkers can help you to pack these smelly goods properly into a box, to keep them from stinking your luggage. Believe me, for Malaysian moms, salted fish of Sabah is one of the best souvenirs. The more smelly, the better.
10. Knickknacks and Others
Here are more suggested items for your shopping list: keychains, fridge magnet, drink coaster, stationery (e.g. bookmark, paper weight, notepad, pen, postcard), mini pottery, Bak Kut Teh spices, and fruit candy. They are inexpensive and ok to give to friends and colleagues who are not close.
More ideas for you. Don’t go home empty-handed
What would you buy in Sabah? Please share your shopping list in the comment section below. ?
Where to Buy
Most shopping malls in Sabah have souvenir shops. Our supermarkets also sell some of these food and snacks. Most souvenir shops are small with limited range of souvenirs. To find everything you really want, you would need to visit two or more places. Below are a few great places to shop.
1. KK Handicraft Market
Located in Kota Kinabalu city centre and adjacent to KK Central Market, KK Handicraft Market is an ideal starting point to buy cheap souvenirs such as keychain and fridge magnet. They are also famous for pearl jewelries. In addition, dried seafood market is just next door, making this place a convenient shopping spot of tourists.
Souvenir stalls and dried seafood at KK Handicraft Market
2. KadaiKu
Kadaiku (means “My Shop”) is a midsize souvenir shop less than 100 Metres away from KK Handicraft Market. Personally I think it is the best souvenir shop because they sell 100% (almost) authentic Sabah products and have the most complete and diverse collection of Sabah merchandises for tourists. Their prices are relatively higher but reasonable.
Interior of KadaiKu Souvenir Shop
Besides enjoying the air-conditioning, it’s like taking a Sabah cultural tours inside. The knowledgeable shopkeepers can tell you the origin and features of each product. One thing I really appreciate is they can package and wrap your order nicely. Just pick a few items and let them make a classy gift hamper for you.
3. Gaya Street Sunday Market
Gaya Street Sunday Market is a well-known tourist attractions that is open weekly (every Sunday morning, 7am to 12pm) in the oldest street of Kota Kinabalu City. Basically it is an open-air market that sells almost anything to locals as well as tourists, from durian seedling, sarong, snacks, fruits and vegetables, local herb, knickknacks, pet, flowers, cloth, antique and myriads of everyday items. Do bargain, or you would pay for full “tourist price”.
Gaya Street Sunday Market in Kota Kinabalu City
4. Local Market
You can find tamu (weekly open-air native market) in most towns of Sabah countryside, the famous tamu are in Kota Belud (Sunday) and Donggongon (Friday) towns. For hundreds of years, farmers, fishermen, hunters and vendors from different villages gather in tamu every week to sell (or barter trade) their products. This tradition is carried on until today with more modern items (e.g. electronics, gardening tools, gadget) for sale.
Hunting for good deals in native market is fun
Due to different culture and lifestyle, every tamu is unique, the goods, the people, and the smell. Tamu is also a fun place to sample local snacks, buy some fresh fruits and souvenirs and practice your haggling skill.
Some Advice…
Souvenirs is a global business. Why? Say, some souvenirs you buy in Thailand may be also available in the souvenir shops of Bali, Maldives and even your hometown! It will be quite awkward if your friends tell you that your “Sabah souvenirs” are sold in local shop too. Many souvenirs shops across the world seem to source the similar items from Indonesia, China or 3rd world wholesalers with custom-made label (e.g. adding the word “Sabah”).
These are NOT Sabah Products. They look like alien objects to Sabahans. I saw dreamcatcher from America, and African drum.
Unfortunately, many Sabah souvenir shops sell such items. Anyway, if this is matter to you, you can always confirm with the sellers. I’m not saying that you shouldn’t buy non-Sabah products. If you like it very much and you don’t mind about its origin, of course it is perfectly ok to buy.
Don’t Buy These!
What you really shouldn’t buy are the items that contain partly or wholly seashells, corals and protected flora / fauna (e.g. shark fin, pitcher plant, giant clam, turtle eggs, endemic orchid, pangolin). Though they might be sold openly here, it’s illegal to bring them out of Sabah. Not only that, you would indirectly hinder our conservation efforts for endangered animals and plant of Borneo.
Happy Shopping! Please share this list with your friends and relatives who will visit Sabah (and tell them what you want haha).
Do you know certain trees are “edible”? You may have tasted it too, for example, the tiny jello-like balls in famous Malaysian dessert, Bo-Bo Cha-Cha (or Bubur Cha-Cha) is from Sago Palm, an important crop for people living in south-west of Sabah. Sago is known as Rumbia locally and a kind of starch that is extracted from the sago palm.
Sago palms
In Sabah, sago palm was once planted extensively in the wetlands of the west coast like Beaufort, Kuala Penyu, Papar and Penampang. However, the scale is getting small now because rice has replaced sago as the main source of carbohydrate.
Rumbia Information Center / Sago Information Center
Sago palm is also called the “Tree of a Thousand Uses”. If you are on a tour to Klias or Pulau Tiga Island, you may drop by the Rumbia Information Center (Sago Information Center, or Pusat Informasi Rumbia in Malaysian language) near Kuala Penyu town.
Statues of sago worker (left) and sago grub (right) at Rumbia Information Center
You can check out the 4-hectare sago plantation in the Center on a boardwalk. The signage, labels and information at the Center are displayed or presented in both Malay and English languages.
Sago palm can reach up to 10 to 13 Meters tall
If you are lost in jungle, finding a sago palm can save your life. Sago is almost pure carbohydrate, an energy food which also contains a bit of protein, vitamins, and minerals. One palm can yield more than 50 Kg of starch, which yields 355 calories for every 100g, and its leaves and trunk are great materials to make tools and shelter! During WWII, the locals survived from starvation by eating sago.
Sago Exhibition Hall
The exhibition hall is the first highlight of the Center. Besides reading information about Sago, you also can see variety of handmade handicrafts made of sago leaves, bark and stem.
Watching video about sago
In the audio-visual room, visitors can watch a 30-min video that introduces the uses, processing and story of sago. The narrative is in Malay language but English subtitles are shown.
Visitors can learn more about sago in Rumbia Information Center
Over 50 handicrafts are on display. Most items are baskets, utensils, containers, mat, hats, fishing net, farming tools, etc. and some items are made of coconut leaves, bamboo and rattan. They are not so common nowadays, because plastic stuffs are more readily available.
Exhibition about Sago and ecology in Beaufort
In addition to sago, there are many information panels and photographs about the wetland ecology and wildlife in Klias Peninsular.
Beautiful handicrafts in Sago Information Center
The hall is air-conditioned. Depending on your level of interest, a tour in Rumbia Information Center usually takes only one or two hours.
Exhibition hall of Sago Information Center
The craftsmanship is so fine that I want to buy them all (a few items are available for purchase). I think they are made by Dusun Tatana, Bisaya and Orang Brunei tribes live in Kuala Penyu district.
Various handicrafts made of sago materials
Sago Information Center isn’t a well-known tourist spot, so you (or your group) would be the only visitor most of the time.
You may watch the 1.5-min video below about Sago Exhibition:
The Legend of Sago
I heard a sad story about the origin of sago during my visit. During old days in Kuala Penyu, there was a woman who could feed her family very well. Even though food was scarce, she was able to bring home food every day. Her husband was suspicious and decided to stalk her one day. He saw his wife placed a nyiru (straw colander) on the ground and started shaking her sarong. Then many small white pellets dropped from her body to the nyiru and that’s the stuff he ate. He was so furious and accused his wife of feeding him nasi kangkang (literally means crotch rice), which is a black magic used by women, in urban legend, who mix the rice with their menstrual blood, and believe that their husband will be subservient to the wives after eating it.
Two species of sago palm, without thorn (left) or with thorn (right)
Knowing that her husband would kill her, the woman begged her husband to cut her body at waist level into half, and bury them in different spots. After some times, a nypa-like tree with smooth bark grew at the spot where her upper part was buried. And a similar tree, but with thorns, grew on another spot. Both are sago palms that produce sago and are scientifically known as matroxylon sagus (no thorn) and metroxylon rumphii (with thorns) respectively.
Sago Food
At this point, you would ask, “How to ‘eat’ sago tree then? Do you cut down the tree, chop it and bite it?”
Sago Processing
NO!!!! The starch needs to be extracted from sago stem first. After cutting down the sago palm, the farmers will remove the outer hard skin and process the spongy center of the trunk. Then they crush the stem with a wooden board (garus) full of nails in sawing movement, to break the pith into smaller pieces.
Sago processing by garus saw
Another tool to break down sago palm into chips
Next step they will collect the sago pieces and lay them on a mat which acts as a filter. A worker will pour water on sago pieces, continuously kneading them with feet, the starchy liquid will flow into a container. The starch powder will be collected after drying the water.
Sago processing with traditional method
The traditional method is very labor intensive and time-consuming. Nowadays, electrical sago processing machine can grate, filter and collect the sago starch. You can see this machine demo in Sago Information Center.
Modern machine for sago processing
The starch from sago can be used for making different kinds of delicious food such as cake, dessert, biscuit and pudding. Sago flour can be used similarly to other types of flour. It is used in baking bread and pancake too.
Sago starch powder can be stored for weeks or months (but usually consumed within days).
In Sabah, sago starch is mixed with boiling water to make the popular local cuisine called the Ambuyat, a traditional way to enjoy sago. Usually locals eat it with fishes and soup, which go well with smooth texture of ambuyat.
Serving ambuyat with traditional dishes
Sago Grubs (Butod)
Sago grub (Local Name: Butod) is a “byproduct” of sago cultivation. Beetles also know the richness of carbohydrates in sago stem, and their babies (larva) grow so fat eating sago. When farmers harvest sago, they collect these juicy worms as food too. You can even eat it raw if you dare.
So, are you drooling? You can sample different kind of exotic sago food (include worms) and dishes during Sago Festival (known as Pesta Rumbia in local language) in Kuala Penyu for a few dollars only. This sago buffet is very popular. The tickets sold out fast, so don’t miss it.
The buffet booth for Sago food tasting in Sago Festival (Pesta Rumbia) of Kuala Penyu
Sago is so important to the local community that Kuala Penyu celebrates Sago Festival annually (usually in July). You may find out the date of this biggest cultural event in Kuala Penyu in Sabah Tourism website.
Making Ambuyat, a sago paste with semi-transparent and glue-like texture
Sago is normally sold in the shape of very tiny, colorful balls called sago pearls. When soaked and cooked, the pearls become larger, translucent, soft and spongy.
Cake made of sago
Sago palm can grow very fast (about 1.5 Meters per year) so it is ideal as an alternative staple food.
Dessert made of sago (white stuff)
Sago palm takes 9 to 12 years to mature. You must cut it down before it starts to flower for 2 months, otherwise the fruiting will exhaust the starch and then the tree dies.
Making roof with sago fronds
It’s all about sago during Sago Festival, you can check out exhibition, sago food buffet, Sago Beauty Queen Pageant, cultural shows, handicraft making demonstration, sago processing, games, etc.
House made of sago trunks. Isn’t it beautiful?
Entrance Fee & Opening Hours
Rumbia Information Center is managed by district office of Sabah Forestry Department in Beaufort. Apart from providing basic information on sago, it is also open to public as a tourist destination. The following is the ticket price to enter the Center (rates as of Mar 2016):
Adult
Child
Malaysian
RM5
RM3
Non-Malaysian
RM15 (≈US$3.75)
RM7 (≈US$1.75)
Walk-in visitor is welcome. You also can organize a group tour with the Center. Their staff can give you an interpretation walk and education tour for better experience. You can even try eating the live Sago Grub. You are advised to inform them a few days prior to your group trip.
Education tour in Sago Information Center
Below is the opening hours of Rumbia Information Center: Mon-Thu, Sat, Sun, Public Holidays: 9am – 12pm, 2pm – 4:30pm Fri: 9am – 11:30am, 2pm – 4:30pm
Besides exhibition hall and boardwalk through sago palms, Rumbia Information Center has other amenities and services such as conference room for rent, food catering and laundry.
Toilet (left) and signage of Sago Information Center
The toilet is quite clean. Overall, this Center is quite tourist-friendly. Their staffs are very helpful and friendly too (can speak and understand simple English).
Cafe in Sago Information Center
The cafes there don’t sell or cook sago grubs. If you want to have a butod feast, you need to arrange with the Center at least 1 day in advance.
Orchid Rest House, the accommodation in Sago Information Center. The Check-in / Check-Out time is 12pm
Accommodation is available in the Center and named as Orchid Rest House (Rumah Rehat Orkid) suitable for family or student group. The house has two rooms, each room has two double decker bunk beds to host 4 people. The rest house is complete with kitchen (with cooking gas and utensils), toilet, air-conditioning, fan, parking, dining table, and living room. The accommodation can be rented as RM400 (≈US$100) per day for whole resthouse, RM160 (≈US$40) per room per day, or RM40 (≈US$10) per person per day. You can call Mr. Hillary at +60 13-5462717 for booking (or ordering Sago Grubs).
How to get there
Rumbia Information Center is located next to Menumbok – Kuala Penyu highway at Kampung Kasugira (Kasugira village), about 114 KM away from Kota Kinabalu city (KK). When you reach the roundabout (which has turtle statues on it) about 10 KM before Kuala Penyu town, take the junction to Menumbok. After 1.5 KM, you will see Rumbia Information Center at your left (see Location Map or Street View).
Entrance of Sago Information Center. Note statues of sago palm at the left and beetle next to it.
If you depart from KK, the road trip will take approximately 3 hours on asphalt road in good condition. You also can take a bus that heads to Menumbok, but to return to KK, you have to take a bus to Beaufort town first, then get another bus from there, quite troublesome. Taxi is a better choice if you have more money.
Photos taken in Kuala Penyu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
Sabah may not have a lot of tall building, but we have many long building (longhouse). Though other Sabah native tribes such as Murut and Dusun Lotud also build longhouse, larger number of Rungus people, a sub-ethnic of Kadazandusun (largest indigenous group of Sabah) with a population of 80,000*, still practise the traditional lifestyle of living in a longhouse today. In 1930s, there was a Rungus longhouse stretched as long as 5 Kilometers!**
Pic: a traditional Rungus longhouse
A Rungus longhouse (known as Vinataang in local language) is made up of 7 to 15 or more family apartments co-joined laterally. Most residents in a longhouse are relatives among themselves. If new family is added, the owner would extend the longhouse at one end. A Rungus village consists of 1 or more longhouses (usually 5 or 6). Longhouse is common in northern part of Sabah, from Matunggong, Kudat, Kota Marudu to Pitas.
Traditional longhouse is built from wood, bamboo and atap (palm leaves). To avoid flood and wildlife such as snake, the house is lift off the ground by stilts made of hard wood such as bogil, belian ironwood, mangrove wood and manzalangan**. In old day, they also raised pigs under the longhouse. The roof is dry palm leaves of sago or nipah, and needs to be replaced every 3 to 5 years.
Pic: entry ladder to longhouse
There are many taboos about longhouse. For example, the site of a new longhouse is chosen based on signs such as dream, animals, weather and human behaviour. If a python (which symbolise death in local belief) appears at the construction site, they would not build the longhouse there. In contrast, tortoise is an auspicious sign. Guest who enters apartment under construction, or leaving the house without informing the host will bring bad luck. The wood of toodopon and puvok trees can’t be used in making house, as they will bring illness, disaster or bad luck. Nevertheless, after many Rungus converted to Christian, they may not strictly uphold these belief now.
Pic: the long and wide corridor of longhouse. Rungus longhouse is divided into two distinct areas, the apad or common gallery (left), and Ongkob or compartment area (right).Apad is an open area for work and leisure activities such as rice pounding and celebration.
The raised platform (tingkang) of apad is a general working area and sleeping area for older boys.
Pic: flooring made of split bamboo or nibung.
Pic: The wall is created from the bark of manzalangan or tarap tree (Artocarpus odoratissimus). There are some holes on the wall if you want to peek what your neighbour is busy on lol.
Pic: I was staying in Maranjak Longhouse for a night and this is my bedroom in longhouse. They have electric bulb to light up the room and corridor. The mosquito net can keep hungry mosquito at bay. There were far fewer mosquitoes than I thought because the longhouse is near to the forest. The wall is so thin that I can hear clearly what the girls in next room talking. During bedtime, I can almost hear the girl breathing, as if she was sleeping on my bed. Luckily she didn’t snore (but I did, HAHAHA). The longhouse is a bit warm in daytime, but at night it is quite cooling. In my dream, I heard two geckos fighting near my bed.
During my stay in Maranjak Longhouse, I took a closer look at the Rungus longhouse.
Then I saw a tower at other end of the longhouse. At first I think it’s for the guard. Then they tell me that that tower is called Rorizan, the place to keep the most beautiful girl in the longhouse.
In case you fall in love with the girl in Rorizan… FYI, to marry a Rungus lady, big muscle is not enough. You also need brain and patience.
Because, you will be tested by Inuog Dazang (Teka Teki Puteri) puzzle, to free the rope from interlocked rattan knots, without cutting it. If you succeed, you can marry the girl without paying any bride price. You can try until you cry but not getting it. Don’t worry, I already have the formula for you. You can buy me some beers if you win a Rungus bride.
Pic: you may have seen the photo of Rungus people dancing Mongigol Sumandai (a welcoming dance mimic the movement of dragon and the male being the head of dragon) and think that Rungus man can have many wives. Rungus marriage is monogamy. Sex before marriage is strictly prohibited, as Rungus people believe this will bring sickness and death to their village. Besides, girls are kept separate from boys except at work. I’m talking about the old time.
Modern Longhouses
Nowadays each Rungus family prefers to have their own house. Also, it’s rare to see thatched-roof Rungus longhouse as corrugated zinc is preferred roofing material. If you see an authentic longhouse, very likely it is built for the tourists. 😀
Pic: photos of “modernised” longhouse, which is more durable and offers bigger space. More livable but lack of cultural identity.
Pic: longhouse with solar panels (certified low-energy green building). This longhouse in KDCA Penampang costs about half a million Ringgit (≈US$157,000) to construct!
The Rungus
Longhouse is not the only cool thing about Rungus. Rungus is renowned weaver. They produce finely woven textiles, handicraft and beadwork which incorporate intricate traditional motif.
The motif design of Rungus is inspired by animals, plant and other things in their environment. Each piece takes 1 to 7 days to make, depend on its complexity. Some motif carries meaning such as good health.
The handmade beadwork of Rungus is so beautiful and colorful that it is one of the most popular souvenirs tourists bring home. It’s also nice as an exotic accessory for lady dress. With prices start from only a few dollars, it’s quite affordable.
If you go to Kudat, I highly recommend you to buy some handicraft from the locals. In fact, most Rungus handicraft for sale in city shops are from them, but being priced higher by distributors.
Pic: Rungus woman is also skillful in producing homespun cloth made from cotton (kapok)
The traditional costume of Rungus is truly unique. I haven’t seen other Borneo tribes that share the similar traits. The photo above is the “most traditional” custome of Rungus women, who wear Ganggalung, disc of brass coil necklace of 40cm in diameter, and Lungkaki, the tightly coiled ornament covering the lower leg. Ganggalung and Lungkaki are seldom worn today. They told me that the brass outfit is heavy and make them lazy to move.
Pic: A Rungus man wearing colorful sash and a sigal, the traditional embroidered headgear. He looks serious but he is very friendly.
Staying in Longhouse
If you would like to experience staying in longhouse, you may visit Kampung Bavanggazo or Maranjak Longhouse Lodge in Matunggong, about 150 KM north of Kota Kinabalu city and 40 KM south of Kudat town (see Location Map). Both longhouses are only a few KM away from each other and their owners are brothers.
Their longhouse can host about 30 to 40 guests at a time. The accommodation fee is about RM60 – RM80 per night (≈US$19 – 25) and Online Booking is available. You also can sign up for some activities such as fishing, crab catching, hiking and tour around in Kudat.
Lastly, mind your head when you visit a longhouse. Incoming! LOL
*Census 2000
**source: Sabah Traditional Ethnic Houses, published by Department of Museums Malaysia (ISBN: 978-967-9935-81-3)
Pekan Nabalu (“pekan” means town) is used to be a “toilet stop” for tourists heading to Kinabalu Park. Now this small town is flourishing and become a “must stop” for tourists.
Pekan Nabalu is only 12 KM before Kinabalu Park, so a lot of tourists stop here for toilet break or breakfast. Tourist buses love to stop here due to the ample and spacious parking space in Nabalu.
However, there are more reasons why tourists like to stop here but not other places.
The 15-Meter watch tower of Nabalu is so prominent at the roadside that every motorist passing by will notice it. Nabalu town is one of the best spots to see Mt. Kinabalu and its adjacent landscape. Tour Guides also like to bring climbers here for a “preview” of the mountain before the climb.
Above: the view of Mt. Kinabalu from watch tower
At the edge of the town there is also a platform to see Mt. Kinabalu. It’s an ideal photography point to use Mt. Kinabalu as your backdrop, as there is nothing obstruct the view, no tall trees, no electricity wire, etc. The mountain also looks very close as if you can hug it.
However, Mt. Kinabalu is covered in mist most of the time, so you need to be lucky to get a clear view of it. You will have better chance if you get there before 8am or 9am and the weather is good.
Above: group selfie with Mt. Kinabalu
Above: The information board at the platform to show you what peaks you are looking at.
Above: a lovely morning view of Mt. Kinabalu from Nabalu
Reason 2: Local Handicraft & Food Markets
Another reason that draws the tourists is the handicraft and food markets in Nabalu. The price is cheaper than city, provided that you have good bargaining skill. Don’t be shy to ask for discount.
Above: a corner of the food market
You can find rich variety of local food and produces. Almost every type of fruits, vegetables and snacks are available in the food market of Nabalu.
Above: honey with bee nest for RM85 (≈USD26)!
Above: hill paddy in 5 colors, RM5 per pack (≈USD1.50). The seller says the 1st one (from left) has aroma of maize, and the 3rd one is Pandan favor.
Above: local peanut
Above: they even have wild durian if you come at right season
There is a building with tons of handicraft and souvenirs line up in its 50-Meter long verandah. Being bombarded by so many colorful and beautiful items, very few tourists can resist not buying anything.
The shops sell almost any item that you can name, e.g. T-shirt, bags, stationary, key-chain, refrig magnet, puff toy, batik cloth, hats, baskets, purses, handicraft, photo frames, bead work, postcards. The things pile up like factory outlet and you will be spoiled with choices. Remember, ask for discount.
Reason 3: The Toilet
The last reason, but not the least, is the toilet. Though it’s not a 5-star toilet, it’s reasonably clean. The air in Nabalu is cool and refreshing, so it’s nice to take a short walk and stretch your muscle, after sitting so long in the car.
Above: public toilet, RM0.30 per entry (≈USD0.10)
Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
This year the launching of Pesta Kaamatan (Harvest Festival) month was held in Kota Marudu town from April 29 to May 1. I didn’t want to miss anything, so I was already there on the first day. To go to Kota Marudu, you can take the mini bus near the Padang Merdeka (in Kota Kinabalu). The ticket costs RM14 and it takes less than 3 hours to get there.
Most of the events were carried out in the football field of Kota Marudu. The first day was only a “warm-up” day, so the only highlight was the Tamu Besar (big local market), where you could buy some food, drink, fruits, vegetables and handicraft. Besides, there were some exhibition booths of government and a mini fun fair.
The second day was the Marudu Bay Carnival with lot of water sport activities. The BIGGEST attraction was on the third day (May 1), the Unduk Ngadau (Miss Harvest Festival beauty pageant). I will blog about them and upload the photo gallery ASAP. Make sure you come back and check later.
There were lot of handicraft on sale. I think most of them are made by Rungus people, who are skillful weaver live in Kudat and Kota Marudu area nearby. The prices are so cheap, can be up to 50% lower than the price in Kota Kinabalu! One of the booths even offered to weave my name on a bead bracelet, everything for RM5 only. The handicraft sold in the city was marked up really unreasonably high. It is the “tourist price”, I guess.
After shopped around for a while, I decided to buy the ship handicraft below. This 9-inch-tall ship is made of seashells and requires great deal of time and labour work. But it only costs RM10 each, so unbelievable, so I bought two. If you want to get this in city, I am afraid you will have to pay RM20 or more for each? But it was quite a headache to carry these fragile things back, on a bus. Glad I made it. They are in my room now.
