Job’s Tears, also known as adlay or adlay millet, is locally referred to as Dalai or Jelai in Sabah. This plant looks like a cross between corn and grass, and its hard-shelled, woody seeds are nicknamed the “Pearls of the Borneo Jungle” (Mutiara Rimba) due to its glossy surface and teardrop shape, providing a glimmering touch to ornaments. It has been utilized in traditional medicine, food, and crafts for centuries and is often associated with good luck, prosperity, and spiritual healing.
Left: Dalai plant and the seeds. Right: This is not the Dalai we are talking about (Photo credit: Image by Bishnu Sarangi from Pixabay).
The Dalai plant is a tall, grain-bearing, perennial tropical plant scientifically known as Coix Lacryma-Jobi. The wild variety, Coix lacryma-jobi var. lacryma-jobi, has hard-shelled pseudocarps. The Dalai seeds naturally come with pre-existing holes, eliminating the need for artificial puncturing. The beads are strung together to to create various crafts, including rosaries (prayer beads), jewelry, bead curtains, and fashion accessories.
Job’s tears have historically been used as beads to make necklaces and other traditional accessories.
Artisans have been using Dalai beads in jewelry since 3000 B.C. Dalai has a long history as part of indigenous fashion in Sabah. I’ve observed Dalai seeds being used in the traditional costumes of the Dusun Kiulu, Dusun Liwan, Dusun Tindal, Dusun Tagahas, Dusun Malapih, and Tombonuo, the native tribes from the western and northern parts of Sabah. Dalai is primarily worn as accessories, such as necklaces, bracelets and belts. According to Wikipedia, other Borneo tribes such as Dayak, Kelabit and Kayan also use Job’s tears in their costumes.
Sinulamba dress of Dusun Kiulu decorated by Dalai seeds
The Dusun from Kiulu use Dalai extensively in the embroidery and decoration of their Sinulamba dress, one of the most unique garments and heritages in Sabah. The Sunduk, a hood covering the head or hair, represents the dignity of a woman, while the Kurilib, cross shoulder sashes, symbolize a loving woman.
Dusun from Kiulu and TamparuliLeft: Dalai seeds will turn grey or brown colour when they are ripe. Right: Dusun Malapih from Papar
The variations in shades of grey and beige give Dalai seeds a natural appearance. Over time, Dalai seeds become shinier when in contact with the skin of their owners. For instance, rosaries made with Dalai beads may transition from a light grey to a shiny, warm chestnut brown color after being held many times during prayers. Saint Teresa of Calcutta was known to pray with Dalai rosaries.
Dalai necklaces, bracelets and earrings of Dusun Tindal
While Job’s Tears grains can be consumed as a cereal, such usage is not widespread in Sabah. The cultivated varieties, known for their soft shells, are more preferred for food. Job’s Tears is also commonly sold as Chinese pearl barley. Additionally, some Kadazandusun communities in Sabah make a decoction from Dalai leaves as a traditional herbal remedy for treating coughs or fevers.
Dalai seeds can mix with other beads and materials to make beautiful crafts.
Dalai is a fast-growing and easy-to-cultivate plant that demands minimal water and fertilizer. It can reach a height of about six feet and thrive in various soil types and climates. Germination typically occurs as early as seven days after sowing, with flowering taking approximately five months.
From left to right: Tombonuo Bobolian, Tombonuo girls, Dusun Kiulu and Dusun Tagahas (from Kota Marudu)
Job’s Tears derives its name from the story of the prophet Job, as mentioned in the Bible and the Quran. Job, a devout follower of God/Allah, faced a challenge to his faith when Satan caused him to lose his wealth, children, and health. Despite enduring a life of misery, Job did not complain. Throughout his ordeal, he remained steadfast in his belief and continued to love God as always. In the end, God rewarded Job with more than he had before. According to legend, when the tears of Job touched the soil, tall grasses sprouted, bearing oval seeds resembling his tears. This is how the name ‘Job’s Tears’ came about.
Creative designs of Dalai seeds. The dalai suit at the right is created by Madam Jusnah Jinos from Kg Bitoon (Ranau).
Dalai seeds come in over 10 variations of colors, shapes, and sizes, such as Tuntul, Watu, Oitom, providing artisans with ample creative possibilities in design. For more information on buying, planting, or learning about Dalai, you can contact the following groups via their Facebook pages:
Rice is the staple food of Malaysians, who may see rice as something ordinary. However, rice holds a special place in Borneo. Kadazandusun people, the largest indigenous group of Sabah, believe that rice has soul because the presence of paddy spirits, Bambarayon. Linopot is rice being packed and wrapped nicely in a big leaf, a traditional takeaway of Sabah natives. The word “Linopot” means packing in Dusun language.
Left: Bobolians (High Priest) of Kadazandusun appease the paddy spirits to pray for a bountiful harvest. Right: Linopot (Black hill paddy) and its dishes (Tuhau, Bambangan, Salted fish, Sayur Losun and Kantan, Sayur bunga betik and pucuk ubi)
In old days, before plastic food containers are common, farmers and villagers, who left home for long hours to work in farm or forest, would bring Linopot with them as lunch pack. Rice packed in Linopot can last for days without going rancid. After unwrapping, the leaf is used as an eco-friendly plate and need no washing.
Linopot is the traditional take-out of Sabah people, the wrapping leaf can be used as a plate.
Rice of Linopot
In traditional preparation, hill paddy was mostly used in Linopot, and the rice can be mixed with other starchy crops such as yam, to create different types of rice like the following (Note: Nasi means Rice in Malay language):
Nasi Gu’ol (rice mixed with yam)
Nasi Tawadak (rice mixed with pumpkin)
Nasi Mundok (rice mixed with cassava)
Nasi Kasou (rice mixed with sweet potato)
Nasi Tadong (Black Hill Paddy)
Takano (rice in Dusun language)
Different types (colours) of hill paddy in Sabah
Nowadays paddy sold in supermarket is mainly processed white paddy. Though processed white race has longer shelf life and more pleasing to the eyes, its best nutrients are gone due to the removal of bran and germ, which contain fiber, protein, antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. That’s why health-conscious consumers opt for brown rice, which retains these nutrients. The coloured hill rice of Linopot shares the similar health benefits. Moreover, the addition of root and tuber vegetables supplements complex carbohydrates that enhances the taste and nutrition too.
Left: pretty purple rice Linopot by Ropuhan di Fifie. Right: Linopot (red Bario rice) with traditional side dishes (Hinava, Tuhau, Bambangan, Losun vege, Ikan Basung)
If the rice is boiled with yams or sweet potato, the colours of these vegetables would add a natural purplish or brown hue to the rice. You could add pandan leaf for extra fragrant. Once the rice is cooked, it will be pounded and stirred by a wooden pestle so the starchy ingredients are mashed to mix evenly with the rice.
Wrapping Leaves of Linopot
When the rice is prepared, next step is to pack it into Linopot with the fresh leaf of doringin, kobu, tarap, tintap, longkobung, toropoi, wonihan, or banana because their leaves are big and readily available.
Big leaves of Longkobung (left) and Doringin (right). Doringin is preferred in packing Linopot because of its pleasing scent. Credit: photo of Doringin by Jnzl
Local Name
Common Name
Scientific Name
Doringin / Rungin
Simpoh Ayer
Dillenia suffruticosa
Wonihan / Wongian
Common mahang
Macaranga bancana
Timadang
Tarap
Artocarpus odoratissimus
Tintap
–
Neonauclea Gigantea
Longkobung
Parasol Leaf Tree
Macaranga tanarius
Kobu / Nyirik
Lerek / Kelupis
Phacelophrynium maximum
Lemba / Remba
Palm grass
Molineria latifolia
Ketapang
Indian almond
Terminalia catappa
Pisang / Punti
Banana
Genus: Musa
A list of common and scientific names of big leaf plants typically used in making Linopot
Linopot wrapped in the big leaf of Doringin (left), Banana (middle) and Wonihan (right)
The aromatic leaf makes Linopot more palatable. The leaf also absorbs the excessive moisture in the rice so the food can last longer. The leaves are washed and dried before use. Some leaves need to have their hard midrib trimmed, so they can be bent and folded easily.
Making a Linopot
The wrapping is carried out while the rice is still hot, because the heated leaves are softer and easier to fold. The rice is first poured on the smooth surface of the leaf, then being pressed from all sides by both hands behind the leaf, until the rice is compressed and hold well together like a brick. Without this step, the rice will break apart and fall everywhere when we open the Linopot.
The rice for Linopot shouldn’t be too dry or overcooked. Photos by Camy @CamyLinopot.
You can watch the video below to learn how a Linopot is made (spoken in Malaysia language, but you still can see how they do it):
Side Dishes for Linopot
The rice of Linopot is the main course, and to be eaten with condiments and side dishes. Basically they are makanan kampung (village food), and many are food that outsiders unheard of, for example, ferns, torch ginger flower, core of banana trunk, petiole of papaya. The villagers just harvest the food materials from their backyard, river or nearby forest.
Some common food materials of Sabah kampung food (village food)
Below are some popular traditional food that go with Linopot (in English translation and description):
Hinava: raw fish salad made of king mackerel (ikan tenggiri), mixed with calamansi juice, sliced shallots and grated ginger
Bambangan (mangifera pajang): fermented wild mango, a mouth-watering appetizer
Tuhau (etlingera coccinea): pickled wild ginger minces with distinct smell, also served in dried floss (Serunding)
Losun: leaves of local wild shallots, eaten as salad or mixed veges
Ikan basung: Mackerel scad (Decapterus macarellus), yummy when fried or cooked in sour soup (pinarasakan)
Ikan masin: salted fish
Bosou: raw fish / meat fermented in jar with brown rice, salt and pangium seeds for week(s)
Highly Recommended: Ikan Basung Goreng is Mackerel scad being deep-fried until it’s very crispy. The meat is tasty and the best part is the super crispy fish head.
The locals’ favourites are bambangan, tuhau, losun, and salty fishes. You can add anything, even hotdog and chicken wing as you pleased, but a balance diet is always encouraged. For tourists, the “safe” choices are hinava, ikan basung and vegetables. If you are on a gastronomic adventure, try tuhau, bambangan, and bosou for acquired tastes. Tip: these food are more delicious if you eat them with your hands.
Enjoying Linopot without spoon and fork
Where to Eat
Though Linopot and the food mentioned above are true Sabah dishes, most tourists haven’t tried them. Most travel agents bring tourists to fancy restaurants for seafood and other food that tastes like chicken, and reluctant to challenge the taste buds of their customers with overly exotic food.
1. Sabah Homestay
The best place to try Linopot is a vacation in homestay, especially in West Coast and Interior Districts of Sabah. You will eat the same village food with the host family. Linopot is also commonly served in local wedding of Kadazandusun people.
Linopot is gaining popularity among tourists who want to try real Sabah food
You also can order from the following Linopot set sellers (Delivery and Halal option available):
2. Aurora Anabella Lovelia (Tuaran and Kota Kinabalu)
Facebook: mynative.sabah Instagram:@mynative.sabah Opening Hours: 11:30am-8:30pm (Mon-Fri), 11:30am-6:00pm (Sat), Closed on Sunday Phone (Whatsapp): +60 16-8332381 Location: 1st Floor, Plaza 333, Penampang, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia (Note: they also have another outlet “Native Cafe” at Hotel N5)
The longest Nuba Tingaa (packed rice) line (308.95 Metres) in Malaysia Book of Records, made by Lundayeh people in a longhouse in Sipitang of Sabah. Linopot is also called “ludtak” in some places.
The blue-coloured Nasi Kerabu is a well-known Malaysian dish. Linopot deserves to have the same reputation, consider it’s such a remarkable cultural heritage. Just look at the video channel of Li Ziqi (李子柒), one of the most famous social influencers who features traditional culinary skills that attract tens of millions of fans. This proves that many foodies do appreciate classic cuisines. What Linopot needs is just more exposure to national and international audiences.
Creative Linopot with green tea rice by Sabah Tea. Photo courtesy of Martin Kong @ Sabah Tea Resort
Sumazau is the iconic dance of Sabah. It’s a traditional dance originated from the Kadazan and Dusun (or Kadazandusun) people, the largest indigenous group of Sabah. The dancers imitate the eagle in flight by stretching their arms to both sides and swing them up and down like bird wings. Usually Sumazau is danced in group of male and female partner as pairs, who move with rhythm of beating of gong and drum. Normally Sumazau is performed in cultural events and celebrations.
Sumazau dance on the stage during a cultural show. Crowd would be invited to join after the first dance.
Sumazau is a generic term for “dance” in Kadazan. It can be called Sumayau, Mongigol and Maragang in other Kadazandusun tribes and it comes with several styles (more on this later). The most classic version is by Kadazan Penampang, one of the sub-ethnic of Kadazandusun living in west coast of Sabah. When Malaysians talk about Sabah, an image of Kadazan Penampang couples dancing Sumazau would appear in their mind.
The “standard Sumazau” by Kadazan Penampang. Sumazau can be called Sumayau, Mongigol and Maragang in other Kadazandusun tribes with variations in music, costumes and movements.
Why Sabahans dance Sumazau?
Sumazau is mainly performed during wedding, festivals, celebrations, social or tourism events, and welcoming of dignitaries. It’s also a must-try dance for tourists who want to experience the colourful cultures of Sabah. Overall, Sumazau is a happy dance so you won’t see people dance Sumazau with sad faces.
Which girl you would like to dance Sumazau with? Leave your choice in comment section.
As a matter of fact, Sumazau is also a sacred dance links to rituals and religious ceremonies. The traditional belief of Kadazan divides the living place into supernatural world and physical world. Both worlds have rules in order to maintain a peaceful balance. If any wrongdoing causes the imbalance, troubles such as illness, infertility of livestock and unproductive farmlands would hit human. If this happens, Bobohizan (high priestess of Kadazan) would be called to restore the balance between the worlds by performing rituals with long poetic chants and Sumazau that bridges the worlds.
Sumazau can be performed to heal sickness by dancing around a group of people sitting under blankets who suffer from bad dreams and illnesses.
The following are some ceremonial functions of Sumazau dance:
To restore the well-being of “Bambaazon” (rice spirit), to ensure a bountiful harvest
Summon the spirits in the spiritual world to cure illness
Celebrate a triumphant return from head-hunting
To appease the house spirit guardian (miontong) so things get back to normal
Sumazau is a living Kadazandusun heritage and the state of Sabah’s dance.
Traditional Attire of Sumazau
Though Sabahans can dance Sumazau in T-shirt and slippers, an appropriate and authentic attire is important for an elegant presentation of Sumazau. In formal setting, dancers dress in their traditional Kadazandusun costumes. For Kadazan Penampang, it’s the black dress with gold trimmings. Male wears Siga, a headgear folded by handwoven cloth in a distinctive way. Female wears silver belts (Himpogot) and brass belts (Tangkong) over their waist and hip. And they dance with barefoot. Everything looks like the old days (except girl’s armpit is shaved).
Traditional outfit and accessories of Sumazau dancers in formal or cultural occasions.
As the accessories for Sumazau, female wears Selendang (Husob), the folded plain, batik or sarong cloth made into one or two sashes cross over both shoulders. Husob can be any colour, red and yellow are the popular choices. All female dancers wear the same colour of selendang in a dance, but bride can be different, just to be special.
Sumazau is also danced in wedding. In the circle are the bride and groom. This is a mock wedding in a tourism event.
Men dancers have a bunch of dried and curly fan, licuala palm or sago (Hisad or Silad) leaves hanging by their side like pom-pom. It’s called Sandangon (or Sansandangon), which is believed to possess talismanic powers to ward off evil spirit and spells.
Sumazau is often performed during ritual and social occasions, with the males partnering the females.
Dance Moves and Music of Sumazau
Sumazau consists of two basic dance moves. In the first move, usually starts in the beginning, the dancer steps from side to side, shifting weight from one foot to another, while gently swinging the arms at the sides to the beats of the gongs. In the second moves, the dancer lifts the heels slightly, with both arms raised slowly and stretched out slightly lower than shoulders, with hands swinging gracefully up and down to simulate flapping wings. While moving, dancers bounce and heave their bodies gently by bending the knee and pumping the heels like a spring in a simple one-two (up-down) rhythmic movement. Just watch the video below and you will get the idea.
During the dance, Sumazau dancers do different formations such as circle, double rows, split and regroup and changing partners. They always dance in pairs and there is no limit on group size, in fact the more the merrier. Throughout the dance, you would hear spontaneous outbursts of the pangkis (loud cry) from time to time. It’s a show of energy, and also serves as a signal to change formation. The rhythm of Sumazau movement is from the music and beats from sompogogungan, the musical ensemble comprised of six hanging gongs and a gandang / gendang drum.
The music band for Sumazau is call Sompogogungan, which uses six hanging gongs and a drum in standard setting. In this photo is Tambunan musical ensemble, which uses eight gongs. Its music is called tinondot and have faster tempo.
Sumazau and Sabah Songs
Sumazau is deeply rooted in Sabah culture, Sumazau to Sabahans is like Samba to Brazilians. You can bet that many famous Sabah songs are of “Sumazau genre”. Just listen to some of them, for example, Anak Kampung, Sayang Kinabalu, Sumandak Sabah, Original Sabahan, Jambatan Tamparuli, and Sumandak Kinabalu, Sabahans will feel the distinctive beats and rhythm that make them want to dance Sumazau.
Most Sabah songs are “Sumazau ready” so you can dance Sumazau while singing, like this chorus.
When you are invited…
Everyone from young to old can dance Sumazau, tourists and outsiders are invited to follow too sometimes. For gentleman, if a girl hangs a Sandangon over your shoulder to invite you to Sumazau, it’s a great honour and please don’t refuse (you don’t need to marry her if you accept the invitation, just for your info). In formal occasions, only VIPs and guests with Sandangon can do the opening dance. The rest will join after the first dance, beginning with the elderly men and women and then the young people.
When a Sandangon is passed to you, you must dance Sumazau once the gong beating starts. Only VIP and dignitaries deserve such honour.
Don’t worry if you don’t know Sumazau. Just have fun and swing your arms up and down like a flying bird. Nobody will judge you. Having a couple of Tapai or Lihing wine would improve your moves.
Tourists have fun bobbing around with T-pose
Cultural Heritage of Malaysia
Sumazau dance is officially listed as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Malaysia in 2007, under the federal and state laws (National Heritage Act, 2005, and the Sabah Cultural Heritage (Conservation) Enactment, 1997).
Sumazau can be a folk dance or sacred dance, depend on the purposes of the performance.
Sumazau is a universal dance among Sabahans, but it comes with different styles. For example, my favourite variation is Tambunan Sumazau (Maragang) by Dusun Liwan. It’s more fast-paced, the gong beating is more uplifting (7 or 8 gong are used, other than 6), and female dancers have more feminine movement and outfit.
Dusun Liwan from Tambunan is also a champion of Sumazau dance, with unique gong music and girls have more elegant movement. They call the dance Maragang.
Depends on the performance types, some Sumazau would include some creative elements such as prop (e.g. basket, farming tools) and drama for story-telling. The following is a playlist of 16 different Sumazau styles (it also contains some playful ones) for your enjoyment. (you can click Forward button to skip to next video):
Different styles of Sumazau from different districts and Kadazandusun sub-ethnic in Sabah. Sumazau is a generic term for Kadazandusun dances (with flying movement).
Sabah, without Sumazau, is not Sabah. If you want to see or try Sumazau, the best time to watch is in May, the harvest festival (Kaamatan) month of Sabah, especially the Kaamatan Grand Finale at KDCA Penampang (Hongkod Koisaan) on 30 and 31 May every year.
Sabah culture is so colourful. We have over 30 indigenous and 200 sub-ethnic groups, most of them have distinct traditional costume, a heritage that tells the world their identity, traditions, and stories. Sabah is beautiful because of this cultural diversity. I’ve been photographing Sabah traditional costumes for 15 years and would like to share what I think are the 10 most beautiful traditional costumes of Sabah (not in any order).
Please note there are always variants in costumes due to different occasions such as wedding, ceremony and social status, so I only can give you a general view. FYI, many ethnic groups share common elements such as linangkit (needlework), siga (headgear) and belts (e.g. Tangkong, Himpogot).
1. Kadazan Penampang
Kadazandusun is the largest indigenous group of Sabah, and Kadazan Penampang is the biggest sub-ethnic. Their traditional costume has become an iconic dress to represent Sabahans.
Kadazan Penampang couple in traditional costume
Kadazan Penampang costume has basic trimmings and embroidery and may look a bit plain. However, simplicity is beauty, like Vietnamese Ao Dai and Chinese Cheongsam. Though it has relatively less shining ornaments and accessories, it is an elegant cloth inspired by sarong kebaya.
The costume of young female consists of a long cylindrical wrap skirt and a sleeveless blouse (Sinuangga’), and decorated with gold trimmings running along the opening for head and arms, and along the seams at the side and along the middle of the back. Around the trimming on neck and front is 20 or more gold plated Betawi buttons.
Bobohizan is the high priestesses of Kadazan people. They wear large headgear with feathers and beads.
Silver-dollar chains (himpogot) and brass ring belts (tangkong) in set of 2 to 3 are worn around the waist and hip to emphasize the curve. Some himpogot and tangkong are antique passed on to women as heirloom or wedding dowry, they can cost thousands of dollars!
“Light version” of Kadazan Penampang costume could be a daily wear
The jacket and trousers of Kadazan Penampang men bear some Chinese influence. They wear headgear called siga, a very intricately woven square piece of headcloth, handwoven or embroidered, and folded to the shape of the peak of the Mount Kinabalu. Most men from Kadazandusun ethnic group wear siga.
The basic material for clothing is black commercial fabric, silk or velvet for ceremonial occasions. It is also made from cotton for daily wear.
2. Dusun Lotud
With a population of only 6,000 in Tuaran district, Dusun Lotud is very famous for weaving the embroidered panel called linangkit, which is used to decorate the skirt, sash and trousers of many Sabah tribes. Without linangkit, Sabah traditional costumes would be far less colourful.
Dusun Lotud couple in ceremonial attire. Note the siwot on her head, an ornament which is stuck into the hairbun. It consists of four bunches of red cloth and black cock feathers. The strings of silver-green beads in forehead was used to be the iridescent wings of beetles in old days.
In English, linangkit is sometimes referred to as needle weave or tapestry weave. a technique closely resembles the tatting or frivolite in Europe. Strips of linangkit are used by various native tribes to decorate and join the seams of their clothing. Different ethnic groups have different patterns and colours of linangkit.
Dusun Lotud girls in ceremonial attire with the following items: Sandai: long sash draped over one shoulder to the front and over the next shoulder falling to the back. Karo: a necklace made of mostly long barrel beads of glass, shell and carnelian.
The traditional costume of Dusun Lotud, be it the long sleeve ceremonial attire or short sleeve version, is just gorgeous. In fact, this costume is one of the favourite choice for contestants in Unduk Ngadau beauty pageant (Harvest Festival Queen) during Kaamatan (Sabah Harvest Festival).
Women in Dusun Lotud traditional costume. Gonob: knee-length black cotton tube skirt. From the waist down is a panel of linangkit needle work. Kuluwu: circular sash with gold trimming along the edges. At the seam is wide band of linangkit. Lilimbo: wide girdle of interconnected loops of split rattan worn around the hips. (Red colour for childless women, black colour for mothers)
Man is wearing headgear called sundi can be folded in different ways. When two points stick out, the weaver has two wives and so on (now you know!).
3. Rungus
Rungus of northern Sabah is considered as the most “traditional” and unique tribe among all Sabah indigenous groups. Rungus women wear a dark bandeau with delicate hand-stitched patterns, a matching knee-length tube skirt and a slipover that drapes over the arms like sleeves. The narrow upper zone of the bodice is decorated with horizontal bands filled with floating weft and/or embroidered motifs. The lower part of the bodice is embellished with vertical bands.
Rungus people dancing Mongigol Sumandai
The women’s hair is pulled back in a neat bun and decorated with a titimbok (a multi-colored floral headpiece), sisingal (a thin band of beads tied together around the forehead) and rampai (a hairpin which has two or three rows of folded pieces of colourful cloth strung together and which float down to the nape)
Rungus woman costume decorated with exotic accessories. Hip band looped with brass rings and antique beads called orot and two pinakol, beaded shoulder bands worn diagonally across the chest. Togkol: string of carnelian, glass and shell beads looped crossed over the shoulders. Sulau: necklace of old beads and a disc of white shell (giant clam) in front and back.
The dress is “musical” too, by having many tiny brass bells attached to bottom hem line of their skirt, making delightful tinkling sounds when they walk or dance.
Rungus women wearing brass ring necklace (Ganggalung) and legging (Lungkaki)
Some older Rungus women wear heavy brass ring necklace and legging. It’s a fading costume. Ganggalung: discs of brass coil worn as necklace. Lungkaki: tightly coiled brass ornament covering the lower legs.
The headgear of men is brightly coloured Kain tinohian (a.k.a. kain pis), a richly embroidered cloth with legendary creatures and takes four months to weave one.
4. Murut Tagol
Murut means “People of the Hill”, and majority of this third largest indigenous group of Sabah lives in interior. They were used to be fearsome headhunters in the past, and men preserve their wild warrior outfit until today (they prefer proper shirts anyway).
Girls in Murut traditional costume
Murut has over 15 ethnic groups, and Murut Tagol is the most skillful for their weave work. Murut women wear black, sleeveless blouse and a long, black skirt decorated with colourful beads motifs of daily objects such as flowers, insects, animals and ferns. Female skirt has hip belts made of chained white round seeds collected from Job’s Tears plant (Coix lacryma-jobi).
The men costume is even more interesting. They wear vest, frontal and rear flaps made of tree bark. First, barks of the tarap or tamarang (timadang) trees (Artcocarps tamaran) are peeled from the trunks, soaked in stream for days to soften them up, then it is pounded, washed and rinsed, and lastly dried under sun for the fabric. However, man costume is too “sexy” so they also wear short pants for more cover.
Beautiful female traditional costume of Murut
The headgear of Murut may be adorned with long tail feathers of Great Argus Pheasant. To see more Murut costumes, you may check out Kalimaran Festival which is held annually in Tenom.
5. Bajau Sama
While most Kadazandusun and Murut people use black as the base colour, Bajau goes bold with striking colours such as yellow, red, green and blue. This also reflects in their multi-coloured and elaborate floral motifs in their crafts, an element greatly inspired by Islam. Bajau in Kota Belud town is also known as Cowboys of the East due to their mastery in horse-riding skill.
Traditional costumes of Bajau Same
Bajau women wear an unusual headgear called sarempak, which is a two-pieced head decoration in the shape of a ship made of gilded silver or modern substitute. Small ornaments dangling down from both ends of sarempak are called garigai. Next is the brightly colored satiny blouse usually in yellow. The flared sleeves show the cuffs of an underblouse in contrasting hue.
Mock wedding of Bajau people
Shining metallic accessories complement their traditional costume really well. Bajau women covers the front from below the neck to waist with beautiful mandapun, a flat collar-ornament accentuating the neckline decorated with stylized leaves in silver, goldleaf or substitute. To add more colours, long and wide band of linangkit embroidered panels (berangkit in Bajau) are sewn into their long black wrap-skirt.
Bajau men wear the traditional headgear called kain dastar, which is also used in women skirt. See more their vibrant culture in Tamu Besar Festival which is normally held in October in Kota Belud town. They even dress up their horses!
6. Kadazan Papar
I wonder who designed the traditional costume of Kadazan Papar. It’s so cute and “flowerish”. The lovely girl costume looks neat and modern. Kadazan Papar women wear a short jacket with gold or silver buttons over a white blouse, and their knee-length black skirt is decorated with a horizontal and vertical cross-stitched panel lined with gold thread. Gold or silver trimming is used on the seams.
Kadazan Papar couple
The mini conical hat is made of fine bamboo strips and features coloured feather-down or artificial flowers at the top to show the wearer’s marital status. Feather-down for the single lady and flowers for the married woman. Another hint is the silver belt (antique British trade dollar), unmarried ladies wear four and married wear two.
The flowers of Kadazan Papar
If no feather or flower, the woman is widowed, grandmothers or elderly ladies then.
7. Dusun Tindal
Influenced by culture of Bajau Sama in the same district, Dusun Tindal is also the most colourful Kadazandusun sub-ethnic group. Just look at the girl costume, 3-colour slashed and flared sleeves from the elbows, rainbow-like beads girdle around the hips, and also embroider on their arms and hem of the skirt. To add more colours, in formal occasion they also carry sunduk, a multi-color hood with embroidered border.
Dusun Tindal people from Kota Belud
On top of colours is extensive use of metallic elements: line and line of gold or silver trimmings and sequins are sewn into their blouse and skirt, two to four Himpogot (or Simpogot) silver-dollar chain belts on the waist, one or more of kuapu (a round embossed silver tobacco container made by the Bruneis) are worn around the neck on a silver chain.
Close up of Dusun Tindal girl dress
Dusun Tindal has brought the creativity of native fashion to the next level. You would be surprised that Dusun Tindal extracts fibre from a wild banana or pisang lanut (Musa textilis) which is processed into a coarse yarn for weaving their skirts, jackets and headwear.
8. Sea Bajau
While Bajau Sama in West Coast of Sabah has the best horse-riding skill, Sea Bajau (or Suluk) in East Coast is an expert of seafaring. Also known as the Sea Gypsies, Sea Bajau spent most of their time on the boat and sailed around the sea of South East Asia. Now they are not as nomadic and many have called Sabah their homeland.
Sea Bajau girls in Lepa-Lepa boat
Similar to Bajau Sama, Sea Bajau is also a fan of bright colours. Their dresses are almost fully covered with colourful patterns, and gold / silver trimmings, sequins and embroidery. Sea Bajau dancers wear long gold or silver fingercovers, to show their fingers dance.
Sea Bajau girl dancer
Backed by beating of drum and kulintangan (small brass gong) music, the dance of Sea Bajau is one of the most mesmerizing in Borneo. They shake and move every part of their bodies, combine with rich facial expression to dazzle you, even to a seductive level. To see more of Sea Bajau, don’t miss the Lepa-Lepa Festival in April every year in Semporna.
The traditional costume of Sea Bajau is really fancy and shout “Look at me! Look at me!”
9. Dusun Lebou
Dusun Lebou (or Lobu) is a sub-ethnic of Kadazandusun lives in Sook (in Keningau district of Sabah interior). Their big woven cloth (called Binaduan) takes a month to weave and consists of different Rungus motifs and even some Dayak motifs from the southern part of Borneo. The complete costume is 2 pieces of woven Binaduan sewn together to create the front and back covers. Binaduan is used in skirt too.
Dusun Lebou girls from Sook
The size, design and complexity of Binaduan is simply astonishing. Men’s costume has a finer motif called Inambau. Unfortunately, the last person who knows how to weave Inambau has passed away. The traditional costume of Dusun Lebou is complex and special, but this art can go extinct.
Binaduan cloth of Dusun Lebou
In old days, married woman with child was not allowed to be a Binaduan weaver. The story was:- a mother was too engrossed with weaving Binaduan from morning until night that she accidentally starved her baby. Devastated, she forbade any married woman to weave Binaduan. The ban was lifted later so more people can pass on this heritage.
Back view of Binaduan is as beautiful as butterfly wings
10. Lundayeh
Most Sabah Lundayeh lives in Sipitang, Tenom and Long Pasia. Different to other groups who mostly use black as main colour, white blouse and black skirt are the signature wear of Lundayeh ladies. Lundayeh men wear jackets made of tree barks called kuyu talun.
Smile of Lundayeh girls, so sweet. Marry one?
Traditional costume of Lundayeh people is simple, but sharp and catchy
Bead cap made entirely of beads (it can be glass, carnelian and other materials) is worn by every Lundayeh woman. In the past, only upper class ladies could wear bead cap. Other key accessories are multi-strand necklaces, silver waist belts, and colourful bead girdle wrap around the hip. Overall it’s a very clean and stylish traditional costume.
Cute Lundayeh flower girls in Sipitang
That’s all! Have you seen other beautiful costumes that desire to be featured here? What’s your top 10 list? Please share it in comment section below.
Now you can see that Sabahans are totally different breed of Malaysians. Put all 200 traditional costumes together and we can make a Sabah version of Wakanda movie.
Sabah has enough beautiful costumes to film Wakanda. Sakanda anyone?
To learn more about traditional costumes of Sabah, you may visit Chanteek Borneo Indigenous Museum in Tamparuli, which showcases wide array of costume dolls, and it is awarded the title “The First Miniature Indigenous Museum” in the country by Malaysia Book of Records. Want to rent a traditional costume? You can browse Sabah Cultural Board website.
Reference Books
“An Introduction to the Traditional Costumes of Sabah” – January 1, 1997, by Rita Lasimbang and Stella Moo-Tan
“The Beliefs and Practices of the Kadazandusun-Murut Natives of Sabah” – 2017, by John Seet
A guy is lucky if he is born with a silver spoon in his mouth. It’s a blessing if a Kadazandusun lady inherits a himpogot from her mother. Himpogot is a “money belt” made of 18 or more British silver coins chained together, and it is the most shiny accessory of traditional costume of Kadazandusun, the largest indigenous group of Sabah.
The older the Tangkong and Himpogot, the more valuable they are
In old days, wearing precious metal such as silver is a way of showing off a person’s wealth. Now himpogot is a symbol of elegance and classy beauty. The “ori” (original) himpogot means antique silver coin belt passed down (to daughters normally) as heirloom from ancestors and it’s very rare now.
Himpogot is a common accessory among Kadazan, Dusun and Murut people of Sabah
Therefore, due to its rarity, it’s a great pride for a Kadazandusun girl to wear a full set of 3 sparkling ori himpogot belts, which weigh more than 1.5 Kilograms, about as heavy as a big bottle of mineral water. The term Himpogot is derived from the Kadazan word pogoton, which means to tighten the tie.
One to five Himpogot belts are worn
Himpogot is widely used in traditional costumes of native tribes in Borneo and have different names, e.g. Botungkat in Dusun, Pipirot Linggit in Murut, and Sementing Ringgit in Iban. The way Himpogot being worn is also different among ethnic groups.
Standard way of wearing himpogot by Kadazan Penampang
The “standard” way of wearing himpogot is usually referring to Kadazan Penampang style. A maximum of three himpogot belts are used, one on the waist and another two, before and after the tangkong brass belts. This looks beautiful with black velvet dress with gold trimmings (siling).
Bajau lady (left) wearing Himpogot
In contrast, Dusun Lotud uses one himpogot together with Lilimbo (Rattan Hip Band), whereas Dusun Tempasuk from Kota Belud will wear up to 3 himpogot on the hip. Kadazan Papar ladies use one on the waist and 2 or 3 on the hip.
The coin belts (Sementing ringgit) and dangling coins (Sementing Buchai) of Iban girl
Though Iban is considered as a Sarawak tribe, Sabah has some Iban people living around Sipitang and Tawau too. In addition to silver coin waist belts (Sementing ringgit), Iban female also wears the dangling silver coin chains on skirts, hundreds of coins are used, pretty impressive. But Iban has its whole way of using and wearing silver coins, and I won’t cover more.
The men of Dusun Tindal also wear Himpogot
The prices of himpogot can vary considerably. The “ori” (original) himpogot can cost more than 1,000 Ringgit. The fake or imitation ones usually cost from RM90 to RM200, depending on the quality.
Tangkong (left), the brass belt and Himpogot (right), the silver belt
The original Tangkong brass belts also cost a fortune. A complete set of 3 tangkong and 3 himpogot belts can worth over RM15,000 (≈USD$3,750). But these are traditional jewelleries that are seldom available for sale.
Himpogot worn as shoulder bands by a Murut Paluan woman
Miniature Himpogot for children, which is half the size of standard himpogot.
British Trade Dollar
Most of the time I only see old British coins used in himpogot. The most common coin being used in himpogot is the British Trade Dollar issued between 1895 and 1937 . This silver coin consists of 90% silver and was used to be a ‘Trade Coinage’ (coins manufactured by one country for use in another country) widely circulated in China, Hong Kong, Malaya, Borneo and Brunei as an international currency in early 20th century.
Antique himpogot exhibited in Monsopiad Cultural Village
Now let’s play a game to see if you can identify an original himpogot. There are two himpogot below, tell me which one costs RM3,500 and RM150. Guess. Don’t scroll down too fast for answers ok.
Guess which Himpogot is MYR150 and MYR3,500
On the coin is the Britannia standing on a shore, holding a trident in one hand and a shield in the other, with a merchant ship under full sail in the background. This coin was known as Ringgit Tongkat (Walking Stick Dollar) and Botungkat (having a stick) in Malaya and some Dusun respectively because of this figure. Britannia is the female personification of the British Isles and she symbolizes unity, liberty and strength. The Britannia side must face outward when himpogot is worn.
This himpogot is valued at MYR3,500 (≈USD$880)
Answer: The second (bottom) himpogot is valued at RM3,500, while the one on top is only RM150. Have you gotten the right answer? The average price of each coin in ori himpogot is RM184! I checked eBay and found these coins are worth more than USD$50 each (collector’s quality). FYI, each coin has different value. Anyway, their prices exceeds silver value due to their numismatic (coin collector) appeal.
Himpogot using faked coins is a lot cheaper
Look at the photo of RM150 himpogot above. The words and graphics have shallower emboss and the surface is more whitish in color. According to the seller, the shiny surface is a plated silver. Another thing you can see is the year on these coins are all the same.
The coins of ori Himpogot in different years (1897, 1898, 1900, 1901, 1903, 1911).
Now look at the original himpogot above. The British trade dollar coins are naturally worn and have different years. The weight of this .900 fine silver coin is about 26.95 g. Stanis, the seller, says the real silver coins will make crisp ding-ding sound when hit each other, whereas the fake coins will make “ta-ta” dull sound. It’s a fake too if it is magnetic. You can read this article to spot counterfeit British Trade Dollar.
These three “ori” himpogot cost MYR2,500 to MYR3,500.
Above are three original himpogot that costs (from top to bottom) RM2,500, RM3,000 and RM3,500. It costs RM9,000 if you want these three belts as a complete himpogot set! On the reverse of the coin is an arabesque design with the Chinese symbol for longevity in the center, and the denomination in two languages: Chinese (壹圓 = One Dollar) and Jawi ( ساتو رڠڬية = One Ringgit). You can learn more about the history of this coin.
Note the Mexican coin (used as buckle)
Sometimes other silver coins are used in himpogot, like the Mexican coin above and the following copper-nickel 25 Pence in 1977 that celebrated the Silver Jubilee (25th Anniversary) of Queen Elizabeth’s reign, Straits Dollar, and Hong Kong Silver Dollar. Himpogot with coins that aren’t drilled with holes has higher value.
Himpogot made of copper-nickel 25 Pence coins in 1977 that celebrates the Silver Jubilee (25th Anniversary) of Queen Elizabeth’s reign (Photo from the book “Cultures, Customs and Traditions of Sabah Malaysia – An Introduction”)
Himpogot with Chinese words that reads “中國古代四大美女” (means 4 prettiest ladies in ancient China), with name and portrait of these women on the coins. (actually this isn’t coin)
Himpogot made from France coins?
Just a thought. Does anyone make new himpogot with new silver coins? For example, they can buy new British silver coins, which costs about RM75 to RM90 each, for making of a new himpogot which costs about RM1,500. Though it’s not an antique, it’ll become ori after passing down for a few generations, a good investment.
Handicraft stall of Stanis in Tamu (open market) of Donggongon town
If you want to buy original himpogot, you may look for the stall of Mr. Stanis in Tamu (open air weekly market) in Donggongon town, which is open in Thursday and Friday mornings. His stall is the largest handicraft stall in the middle of tamu.
His stall only opens in the morning of every Thursday and Friday.
However, these himpogots are stored in his little treasure chest. You can ask him to show you. You better hurry. Last time I mentioned about his RM8,000 Tangkong and it was sold. Original himpogot is a rare and highly sought-after item, so I’m sure it’ll be gone soon. No, he didn’t pay me any commission or ad fee.
Special thanks to Anne from Chanteek Borneo Gallery for providing a lot of information about Himpogot.
