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Spooky silhouette of trees

10 Taboos in Borneo Forest

Now is Hungry Ghost Month, so it’s a good time to talk about the spiritual world. Borneo forest was used to be the most mysterious area on earth, only adventurers dared to explore it. Today, even tourists can visit our forest, but it is still full of mystery and many visitors have unexplainable experience.

Like Indians who believe everything has a soul, the locals believe the forest is the world of spirits. Therefore, we have a set of rules to follow when we go into the forest, especially the undisturbed forest. I hear many scary stories of someone whom I know breaking the rules. Below is a list of 10 Big No-No in Borneo forest.

1. Don’t Pee Everywhere

Old folks would advise you to say “Excuse Me” before you pee in the jungle, though there is nobody around. This is to inform the “invisible” entity to give way, so you won’t pee on them. Btw, any language will work as “they” can read your mind. I have relatives who didn’t believe this and one of them even purposely peed at the grave. So, at night he saw a man standing next to his bed and stared at him angrily. He was terrified for a few days until he went to the site to apologize, then the spirit left.

Never pee at termite nest, big tree and boulder, which can be the home of the spirits. Peeing at river and stream is not a good idea too. Urinate at sacred sites such as Mt. Kinabalu can bring serious consequences, case in point, a group of 10 disrespectful foreign tourists were blamed for causing a magnitude 6 earthquake. Most people think that it’s only a coincidence, but they get more angry with these fools anyway.

2. Don’t be Busybody

Our forest is rich in biodiversity, so is the forms of spirit. If you see, hear and smell something weird or unknown in the forest, just keep quiet and move on. For example, you would smell something stink or fragrant, so strong that as if it’s just next to you, or you might suddenly feel a chill in your spine for no reason.

Do NOT mention it or ask your friend what it is. It’s probably a spirit comes to check you out or tries to play a trick to lure you. If you respond, it’ll follow you. If you ignore it, it’ll vanish. My ex-classmates didn’t ignore this at Kinabalu Park, so they found 2 “extra” misty human figures in group photo. Some of my friends even hear someone calling their names or foot steps behind. No matter what, don’t go off-trail to investigate. Curiosity kills the cat.

3. Don’t Make Noise

Whoever enters the forest is an outsider invading the territory of the spirits. Usually they don’t bother until someone disturbs them with noise. If you have been to Mt. Kinabalu, you would recall your guide advised you not to be noisy. According to the locals, Mt. Kinabalu is the resting place of the death.

Student is the most annoying group. Despite advised by guide, they are negligent and soon forget about it. Then the mountain is echoed with their loud noise and laughter. Then later at night, some of them would be harassed by black shadow during bedtime. I had heard so many cases like this.

4. Don’t Swear

Jungle trekking can be unpleasant to most people, as Borneo forest is dark, warm and humid. People start to complain when they sweat profusely or get tired. Remember, something is seeing you and hearing you. Your negative attitude will be a magnet for negative energy and that includes bad luck. Sooner or later, you would see the whiner getting into trouble such as a bad fall.

Your positive qi (energy) is your best defense. Keep swearing doesn’t help, it will only worsen the situation.

5. Don’t Joke

If you see anything ugly or funny in a forest, don’t make fun or laugh at it. I know a fellow from Kuala Penyu who laughed at an ugly old tree, then he lost in jungle and almost died of dehydration. According to him, he followed his “friend” in front of him, but his friend didn’t talk and respond to him. Actually it was a spirit that disguised as his friend and made him lost in the wood.

6. Don’t Bring Raw Meat

Most local hunters know this rule. The locals tell me that meat, especially raw pork and salted fishes, will attract something undesirable. I heard story of a driver who kept raw wild boar meat in the car felt that the car became “heavy” when he drove on winding roads next to the forest of Tambunan. One of my friends even saw a tall and black human figure with red eyes at roadside of Papar.

For local people who hike a lot in Sabah forest, they would know the popular taboo named Kopunan. In the forest, you are not supposed to mention any food that is not available there, not even joke about it, for example, saying something like “Hey, is there any burger here? I wish I have a cold bottle of Coca-Cola with me.” Doing so will generate an unfulfilled desire and that negativity will bring bad luck.

7. Don’t Disturb Anything

Leave everything in place as it is. Take nothing but photograph. Keep in mind that the forest is the property of others. That’s why workers of logging companies are strong believers of Feng Shui and God of Earth (Dato). You can see them worship Dato (拿督公 in Chinese) in their forest campsites. The spirits hate the loggers so much that the workers need the protection from the God of Earth.


Pic: God of Earth (Dato) is widely worshiped in construction & logging sites of Sabah

If you have to take something, ask for permission (say to the air), and you better leave something behind as an “exchange”. However, if you take anything in national park, no matter it is live or dead specimen, it’s stealing and you will be fined RM1,000 or more. So just don’t do it.

8. Don’t Sleep Anywhere

Based on common belief of locals, Bambangan, Banana, Banyan and Bamboo are the most haunted trees of Borneo. There are many ghost stories related to these trees too. If you camp in the jungle, stay far away from them.

I have a friend who was a girl scout and camped a lot in the wilderness. She said one day a hammock next to a banana tree spin like crazy and freak out everyone. Personally I saw fireball with tail hovering in bamboo forest. My late grandmother said it’s the spirit of the newly deceased.

9. Don’t Make Fun of Wildlife

Every living thing is the “citizen” of the forest. It is understandable that people may consume them for living, but it is unforgivable to torture or make fun of them. I was told that a group of hunters caught a monkey in Trus Madi. They put cigarette in the mouth of the dead monkey and had good laugh of it. That night an unusual strong wind blew away their camp.

10. Beware of River

Without pollution, the river in deep jungle is crystal clean and we will swim. Be careful, my Long Pasia guide warned. Before entering the water in remote area, we should throw lime or a pinch of salt into the river to cleanse it. During camping, he also advised us not to sleep in parallel direction with the river. Or we would find that we are relocated to another location in next morning. This has happened to his guests. Weird huh?

Call me superstitious if you want. Well, many broke the rule but nothing bad happened to them, so you can remain skeptical. Anyway, the rules are easy and won’t cost you anything. Four rules have something to do with our mouth, so just shut up in the forest, haha.

This notice in Kinabalu Park reminds “naughty” tourists to behave themselves.

For those who don’t listen to the old folks, they would experience bad consequences such as incubus and sickness. In serious case, it could be bad weather, accident, lost in jungle or being haunted. Though most Sabahans are converted to Christians or Muslims, most of us believe there is another kind of energy living in the forest. Another reason to follow the rules is to show that you respect the cultures and belief of locals, no matter you believe it or not.

I’ve walked hundred Kilometers in forest and never harassed by any spirit. Just Respect the forest. Before I enter any forest, I “talk” to them, saying that I’m just a friendly visitor and don’t mean to disturb them. When I walk in the jungle, I praise everything I see and thank them for the nice surrounding. In almost every case, the moment I walked out of jungle, it rained, as if they waited until I finished my journey. It happens so many times that I can’t believe it’s just a coincidence. I’m trying to say, they will be nice to you if you respect them.

If you enter a remote pristine forest, it’s also advisable to bring a local villager / guide with you. The spirits would be less hostile if they see you coming with someone they know. For safety reason, the locals know the place well too. Do you know the locals appease the spirits of Mt. Kinabalu annually, to protect the climbers?


Pic: making offering to mountain spirit with 7 betel nuts, eggs, tobacco rolls and chicken

For high-risk expedition, you can request a local shaman (locally known as Bomoh) or high priest (Bobolian) to appease the spirits for a smooth journey. They also can neutralize the curse or chase away the evil spirits, in case you get one from the forest. However, if you don’t feel alright after a jungle trip, the first thing you should do is to see a doctor instead of Bomoh. It could be allergy, food poisoning, viral infection, Malaria, etc., a 99% chance that there is a scientific explanation.


Pic: a Bobolian

Hey, please share with me if you got any story ok. 🙂

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Mount Nungkok, the Child of Mount Kinabalu

Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain of Malaysia and Borneo. One of its legend says a woman was turned into Mount Kinabalu by her grief because after many years of waiting, her Chinese husband never returned, thus another nickname for Mount Kinabalu is China widow mountain. The story doesn’t end there. After she becomes rock, another mountain born in her village. That’s Mount Nungkok (Gunung Nungkok in local language), which is also known as Anak Kinabalu, means the Child of Kinabalu.

The distance between Mount Nungkok and Mount Kinabalu is less than 9 Kilometres.

Standing at less than half the height of Mount Kinabalu which is less than 9 Kilometres away, Mount Nungkok does look like a baby sitting at the feet of majestic Mount Kinabalu. Looking from the angle of Kota Belud, the ancient gateway to climb Mount Kinabalu, these two mountains are positioned side by side like twin mountains. No wonder people think they are parent and kid. When Mount Kinabalu is hidden in the cloud, Nungkok is sometimes mistaken as Kinabalu by non-locals.

Mount Nungkok is also part of Kinabalu Park, the first UNESCO Natural Heritage of Malaysia.

However, Mount Nungkok is not as famous as its parent and still a mysterious mountain. Same as Mount Kinabalu, Mount Nungkok is also part of Kinabalu National Park and have its flora and fauna fully protected by conservation laws. Climbers would spot blooming rafflesia flower, exotic orchid and endemic pitcher plant on this mountain, as well as wildlife such as deer and binturong bearcat. In the past someone mined gold in this mountain. I was told by village folk that there is a bat cave in Mount Nungkok too.

Mount Nungkok is located on the western side Mount Kinabalu near Kota Belud, so it is not visible in Kundasang and Ranau town at the east side.

Viewpoints for Mount Nungkok

The most interesting feature of Mount Nungkok is – it differs in shape if viewed from different locations, as shown in the time-lapse video below (I used over 1,200 photos to create this 4K video so please watch):

You don’t need to travel more than two hours to have a spectacular view of Anak Kinabalu. You have better chance of seeing it before 8am during fair weather, both mountains covered in dense mist after 9am in most days.

Mount Kinabalu and Mount Nungkok lit up by the afternoon sunlight. The mountains would turn reddish during sunset.

1. Kota Belud

The view of Mount Nungkok is the most prominent in Kota Belud district, especially at Kampung Tambatuon village, where you can see both mountains up-close. There are dozens of homestay and camping ground around Kota Belud, in case you love mountain and countryside view so much.

Mount Nungkok (Gunung Nungkok) is also known as Anak Kinabalu (Child of Kinabalu). Note the couple taking selfie on the hanging bridge of Tambatuon Village.

In Tambatuon, Mount Nungkok looks like a pyramid mountain with pointy peak. I always imagine that I stand on that tip, it must be a great feeling up there.

View of Mount Nungkok at Tegudon Tourism Village (Kota Belud)

You also can have a clear view of Mount Nungkok at Tegudon Tourism Village and Kampung Kiau.

2. Kota Kinabalu-Tamparuli-Ranau Highway

This is the most convenient option and can be a fun stop for your road trip to Kinabalu Park, Nabalu or Kundasang. For only an hour of driving on a paved road that connects Kota Kinabalu (KK) to Ranau town, you can see Mount Kinabalu and Mount Nungkok from inside your car.

In clear day, you can see Mount Kinabalu and Mount Nungkok from the KK-Ranau highway.

The best viewpoint is along the road about 38 to 42 Kilometres before Ranau town. However, most of the time the view is obstructed by trees and knolls, you can park at one of three toilet stops listed below and use their platforms for an open view. They open from 6:30am to 5pm. The fee to use their toilet is RM0.50. Snacks and drink are available for sale.

The milestone used in Sabah road. For example, this milestone shows the remaining distance to Ranau town is 50 Kilometres. I’m using this to mark the locations and section of the KK-Ranau main road.

1. Quintin Enterprise

Location: 42 KM before Ranau (GPS: 6.088557883280411, 116.43687023602439, see Location Map)

View Point at Quintin Enterprise shop about 42 Kilometres before Ranau town

Besides toilet and a grocery store, this stop has a decorated and Instagramable platform (entry fee is RM1 per person) for a wide and nice open view of Mount Kinabalu and Nungkok. This platform is great for launching and landing my drone safely too.

View point platform of Quintin Enterprise. You can get yourself a cup of hot coffee and sit there to appreciate the view.
Tourists enjoy the twin mountains view on the platform

2. Peranggi View Point

Location: 40 KM before Ranau (GPS: 6.076247258484695, 116.44161145366436, see Location Map)

Toilet stop and grocery shop at Peranggi View Point (in Kampung Kaung Lapai) about 40 Kilometres before Ranau town

Peranggi View Point is a bigger area with many parking lots. They have small grocery store and canteen that sell snacks, buns and drink.

The viewpoint platform of Peranggi View Point

3. Gerai Anna

Location: 38 KM before Ranau (GPS: 6.054505309728095, 116.4479594934989, see Location Map)

Toilet stop of Gerai Anna and Kitchen De Aman about 38 Kilometres before Ranau town. You can enjoy the nice view of Mount Nungkok while dining at Kitchen De Aman.

This site has a restaurant where you can order simple dishes such as chicken rice and fried noodle. The picturesque mountain view at dining area is a bonus.

My favourite spot is near the Kota Belud to Ranau junction (GPS: 6.104156379447983, 116.42378880340594, see Location Map), where both mountains are aligned in center and seem really near to each other.

The KK-Ranau road section about 38 to 42 Kilometres before Ranau offers a good view of Mount Nungkok.

As the KK-Ranau main road is on the highland, you will have a bird’s-eye view of both mountains. From this side, Mount Nungkok is a forested mountain with blunt top. You can see the exposed granite near its top, a result of the landslides caused by earthquake in 2015.

Climbing Mount Nungkok

Mount Nungkok was used to be off-limit to the public as it’s a fully-protected park managed by Sabah Parks. Started in 2017, climbing is allowed for visitors with a permit and licensed guides from the Park. Only up to 15 climbers are allowed per day.

View of Mount Nungkok at Kampung Kiau Nuluh village

Even though Mount Nungkok is about 1,652 Metres (5,420 feet) tall and far lower than Mount Kinabalu (4,095 Metres / 13,435 feet), the climb is more challenging due to its steepness, even to experienced hikers.

Mount Kinabalu and Mount Nungkok, like parent and child. View from Kota Belud junction on KK-Ranau road.

Based on what I found on the Internet, there are three peaks on Mount Nungkok. The highest peak is not open to climbers. There are two climbing routes that started from two different locations in Kota Belud and lead to the other two peaks. You can book the climb with the homestay operators in the villages.

Route No.1: Tambatuon

This is the more popular choice and it can be a day trip. The starting point is in Kampung Tambatuon village about 6.2 KM away from Mount Nungkok. Climbers who are not in a rush would spend a night in the local homestay operated by Tambatuon Eco Tourism Community and start the climb in next morning.

View of Mount Kinabalu (left) and Mount Nungkok (right) at Kampung Tambatuon village of Kota Belud

First the climbers will be transferred by 4-wheel drive to the starting point about 3 KM away around 5am. The summit trail is about 3.43 KM one way, and you can reach the peak at 1,652 Metres (5,420 feet) after 4 to 8 hours, depends on your fitness. For more details, you may check out the blog here and there, and the video of the climb.

Route No.2: Lobong-Lobong

This route takes 2 days 1 night and the total climbing distance is 8.8 KM one way. In day 1, climbers start their climb from Kampung Lobong-Lobong village (or Tanak Nabalu) to reach base camp about 4.4 KM away. After camping there for a night, they continue to climb another 4.4 KM to reach the peak at 1,574 Metres (5,164 feet).

Location of Kampung Lobong-Lobong, one of the starting points to climb Mount Nungkok.

The Lobong-Lobong route takes longer time but it offers more nature experience. For more info, you can watch the walk-through videos (4-minute and 14-minute versions).

Hope I will climb Mount Nungkok one day and blog more about its natural treasures. For now, I just admire its beauty from a distance.

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Boobs Rock, Waterfalls and Black Honeybees at Maranggoi, Kota Belud

This year I celebrated my birthday differently. No Internet, no birthday cake, and no cozy bed. For me, to feel great being alive is to do something I love. Touching some boobs would be awesome, so this birthday wish brings me to Batu Nenen (Boobs Rock) in Maranggoi of Kota Belud.

(Left) Photos next to a Liposu fruit tree. (Right) Oh dear I am (in middle) so fat. At the right is Risin (my guide) and left is Uncle Sinuar (cook)

About Maranggoi and Pinolobu

Located in Pinolobu Village (Kampung Pinolobu), Maranggoi Eco Tourism is a new destination of rural tourism, which promotes travelling in countryside of Sabah. This village is blessed with forest, waterfalls, spring water and clean river. Maranggoi is the name of the river, which is named after a missing young man Maranggoi, who used to collect resin in forest around that river. But one time he didn’t return home after 3 days, which he normally did. The villagers went out looking for him and shouted his name, but they only found the cigarette butt Maranggoi left.

Trail Map of Maranggoi (Source)

Kampung Pinolobu is a village about 17 Kilometres away from Kota Belud town. Pinolobu means breaking into a new frontier. Most of the population in Pinolobu Village is Dusun Tindal people and majority of them are farmers. Fruits and crops are everywhere in Pinolobu, to list a few, tapioca, pineapple, mango, rambutan, durian, sweet potato, and rubber. The entire village is built on hill area. To move around neighbourhood, you would need to walk up and down some slopes.

Visit the Boobs Rock (Batu Nenen)

Last month I booked a 2-day-1-night tour with the operator of Maranggoi. I drove 2 hours from Kota Kinabalu to Kampung Pinolobu. I was a bit worried about the bad weather lately, and wished the sky would be kind to me on my birthday. Luckily, the day was clear in the morning and by 7:30am I met Risin, who was my guide. Risin is married with 4 kids and own a farm in Kampung Pinolobu.

River pond with crystal clear water

After a light breakfast in a local shop, we headed to the starting point of jungle trekking, to visit four waterfalls and Boobs Rock in Maranggoi. The hike started in the base camp, which is nearby the first waterfall, Wasai Telupid. Telupid is the name of a rare exotic tree that bears sour fruit, its leaf also has strong flavor of sour, and both can make mouth watering pickle and food.

First waterfall (Telupid Waterfall) in Maranggoi river trail

To reach Batu Nenen, We needed to walk over 2 KM along Maranggoi River and passed by a few waterfalls. As this is upstream, the boulders are huge and the stream is crystal clear. Risin says there is no more village upriver so the water is unpolluted. Maranggoi River also seldom floods, even in rainy season. Do bring swimwear if you want to enjoy the clean and cooling water. All waterfall ponds are shallow and safe for a soak.

Telupid tree, a rather rare and exotic tree with edible sour fruits and leaves

The nature trail to Boobs Rock is pretty challenging for tourists who are not used to jungle trekking. We have to cross a few streams and climbed over many slippery boulders (Do expect to get wet until knee level). Besides, half of the time I walked on narrow soil trail along the side of the slope, a misstep could cause a bad fall down the slope. Most of the steep sections don’t have rope or rail support. Landslides blocked our way a few times, and we had to clear another path to get around them. Just to warn you that this is a rugged trail. Most visitors can do it but casual tourists would feel uncomfortable.

Left: zombie forest ants infected by parasitic fungus (commonly known as Cordyceps). Right: big caterpillar

Due to hunting activity, no big wildlife is spotted, so forest leech is absent too. We did see some fresh holes dug by wild boars foraging for food. According to Risin, Konexer captured the video of a Tufted Ground Squirrel (species: Rheithrosciurus macrotis) in camera trap there. Tufted Ground Squirrel is also known as Vampire Squirrel, it’s very rare and endemic to Borneo. It has the world’s fluffiest tail.

Bat Cave under the boulder

The riverine zone is a regenerated secondary forest with dense undergrowth. Risin shows me some interesting trees and herb that we spotted along the trail. Some fruit trees have spread into this forest, like rambutan, tarap, and cempedak. We passed through quite a number of farmland and rubber plantation in forest edge but didn’t see anyone else though.

Withered flower (left) and bud (right) of Rhizanthes lowii

The most exciting plant I saw is Rhizanthes lowii, which is endemic to Borneo and a parasitic flowering plant without leaves, stems, and roots. Rhizanthes is a corpse flower same family as rafflesia flower. Its flower lasts only a few days. Though I saw only the withered flower and bud, this is already worth my trip.

Gotokon Waterfall at Maranggoi River

After 1.84 Kilometre, we arrived the second waterfall, Gotokon Waterfall, which is a cascading waterfalls with the highest tier around 4 Metres in height. Personally I think it’s the most beautiful waterfall in Maranggoi river. Gotokon is derived from the term that describes the action (Togop) of scratching tree bark to collect sap. The sap is sticky and can be used as strong glue for bird trap.

Gotokon Waterfall is about 1.85 KM away from campsite

The next waterfall, Ronggu Waterfall, is less than 400 Metres ahead. Because I kept stopping for pictures so we were slow and it’s already 12:33pm, so we decided to have our lunch next to this waterfall. Risin brought some rice and traditional side dishes. We sat on the rocks and enjoyed our food.

Ronggu Waterfall (about 2.12 KM away from campsite)

We continued our hike after lunch. Within 15 minutes, we approached a rockface with flowing water. Probably due to the natural minerals, the water leaves a black trail on the surface it flows through. Risin says, “this is spring water (mata air) that percolates through rocks! We have a few spring water sources around Maranggoi. They never dry up even during drought. Instead, they even overflow in dry season occasionally. Sometimes I bring buckets of natural water from Maranggoi to my twin daughters who study in Tamparuli because they are not used to drinking the chlorinated water in town.”

Natural spring water coming out from the rocks next to Maranggoi River. Note the picture at the right, the mineral deposits in the spring water turn rocks into dark color

Finally, we made it to Batu Nenen (Boobs Rock) at 1:33pm. The local myth mentions about Batu Hujan (Rock Rain), which is a display of the wrath of God. Everything hit by this rain will turn into rock. The Boobs Rock was probably an unlucky woman hit by the rock rain, but no confirmation about its origin. When I wanted to have some quality time with the boobs rock, heavy downpour suddenly came. We left in a hurry. Bummer!

Boobs Rock (Batu Nenen)
Risin enjoyed grabbing Boobs Rock (Batu Nenen) lol
A strange tree near to Batu Nenen (Boobs Rock). It looks like p….

We walked back to the village. After nearly 2 hours I saw rows of whitish trunks of rubber trees, I knew we were home.

Watu Kepungit Waterfall looks mythical with the vines

What I Ate

I like to acquire new tastes so I requested them to provide local meals. Their traditional village food is not bad, as it is freshly caught or harvested locally and not high in fat and sugar. White rice is always the “main course”. The rice is compacted and wrapped in big Doringin (Dillenia beccariana) leaf and they call this rice pack linopot. Farmers always carry linopot to the field because such packing prevents the rice from spoiling fast.

Breakfast

I had some Linuput rempis (fishes wrapped and cooked in multiple layers of doringin leaves). The small fishes are from the river next to our camp. “Palm heart” soup is new to me, the soft core of palm trees such as banana and coconut are edible.

Breakfast: Linuput rempis, palm core soup and white rice . There are two liposu fruits at the back.

Lunch

These are what I ate at the waterfall. I love sour food so the liposu fruit has become my new favorite. The fruits are cut into slices, red color is the raw pulp and whitish color ones are smoked liposu.

Lunch at waterfall: salty fishes, canned spicy fishes, sour liposu fruit slices and wrapped rice (Linopot)

Dinner

Rice with Bahu (Mango pickle with red chili) and raw tarap soup. The older the Bahu mango, the more sour it is. The seeds of tarap fruits are edible and taste like peanut.

Dinner: Linopot (wrapped rice), Bahu (mango pickle) and salted fishes

Fruits

The highlight is Sukang durian, a mini durian grows in the wild but now also widely cultivated in Sabah orchard. The fruit is smaller but creamy and meaty. The durian aroma isn’t too overpower. Besides, I also bought 7 Kilograms of rambutan fruit (RM3/Kg) from a villager. I’m lucky because it is fruiting season.

Rambutan fruit and yummy Sukang durian

Second day of the my trip is to tour around Kampung Pinolobu, a relaxing day.

Stingless Bee (Kelulut) Farm

Stingless bees are also honey producer. It’s called Kelulut in Malay language but sounds similar to something negative in local language, so the local people prefer to call it Tantadan. Stingless bees don’t sting and Kelulut honey can fetch higher price than normal honey, so more and more villagers rear stingless bees at home.

Visit Stingless Bee (Kelulut) Farm in Kampung Pinolobu, Kota Belud

I visited an organic stingless bee farm that is built by local community in Pinolobu Village. There are 75 bee houses in the farm. If they include bee houses of whole village, there will be a total of over 300. Each hive produces about 2 Kg of honey per month, and it is sold for RM20 per 100 grams, a good side income.

This kelulut farm is placed under the rambutan fruit trees and next to clusters of Honolulu creeper flowers (air mata puteri), the preferred host plant for the stingless bees. Sometimes beekeepers feed the bees with rambutan and banana fruit if the bees can’t go out harvesting nectar during rainy season.

There are about 75 Stingless Bee (Kelulut) houses in this farm

Stingless bees are a lot smaller than honeybees, so they can access tiny flowers and extract more nutrients. They build their nests in tree hollows and crevices. When the villagers find their hives in the wild, they would cut the log section that contains the nest and transfer them to the bee house. This has to be done at night, after all the worker bees return to their nest.

The taste of kelulut honey varies in flavour depend on fruit and flowers they visit. In general, kelulut honey is sourish sweet, usually sweetness is the base taste, with a bit of sourness or bitter, or a mix of all, sometimes with a hint of fruit aroma. The colour of the stingless bee honey can be yellow, brown and even pink (rare and more expensive but no difference in nutrients).

Stingless bees store their honey in the containers called honey pots. The fun part of the visit is to sip the honey from these pots with a straw. The stingless bee honey is sticky so I need to suck harder. It’s sourish sweet, with a bit of durian aroma.

Sipping honey from Kelulut nest

This stingless bee farm has more than 6 species of stingless bees. Heterotrigona itama and Geniotrigona thoracica are the preferred species for beekeeping, as they are more productive. I was attacked by a swarm of Lophotrigona canifrons when I got too close to their nest for filming. Their bite is like ant bite, not really hurt but definitely unpleasant to have the bees all over your face lol.

Risin says a teaspoon of kelulut honey twice a day can improve the immunity system. If you want to learn more about kelulut honey and beekeeping, you may check out my last post.

Burung Jinak (Tamed Birds)

The last stop is to check out the tamed birds. There are 5 or more wild Magpie robin that can be hand-fed. The villager just brings some mealworms and whistle to call them. The birds gathered and chirped on a tree nearby. Then the birds fly to him and pick up the worms from his hand. It took them some years to gain trust from these wild birds.

Calling and hand-feeding wild magpie robin birds

I’ve been feeding some feral pigeons for a long time. Even today they still don’t want to befriend me. So the lesson is – only nicely treat those who appreciate your friendship. Some freeloaders are just takers and don’t deserve to be your friend.

Camping Grounds

There are two camping grounds in Maranggoi. Bunti Campsite has better environment and facilities. Wasai Telupid Campsite is quite basic (shelter and toilet only) but it offers more camping experience, and it’s a short walk to a beautiful waterfall. Mosquitoes may present during dusk. Insect repellent and mosquito coil would be useful. The night is quite cooling like air-conditioning. Do bring a good sleeping bag, mat and some warm clothing. Both campsites have no phone service (only weak signal of Digi in higher ground).

Bunti Campsite. The big building is the house of Uncle Sinuar. I overnight in the small hut (picture at the right)

I was staying in Bunti Campsite, which is well maintained by Uncle Sinuar. He also cooked for my meals with produces / caught from his farm and river. This 70-year-old and friendly villager is still active in farming. He worked as a carpenter before, so he builds all the hut and gazebo there himself. Visitors can choose to sleep in camping tent or the hut.

Camping ground and river (where I bath) at Bunti Campsite

Booking and Contact

You can find more information and photos in their Facebook page @ Maranggoi. It’s more fun to camp with a group of friends. Below is the price list for your perusal (rates as of August 2020).

Entrance Fee

Adult: RM3.00
Senior (65 and above): Free
Child (7-12 years old): RM2.00
Child (Below 7): Free

Activity Fee

Hiking: RM5.00
Visit Stingless Bee Farm: RM5.00
Camping: RM7.00/Night (bring your own camping tent)
Camping Tent Rental: RM15.00/unit

For full-day or overnight trip, you may consider the following packages. I was going for package no.2. For further information or booking, please call or Whatsapp 0111-514-7226 (Risin Ituk), 0111-530-7865 (Jalni), 019-880-3344 (Lazrus)

Package 1 (Preface)

  • Price: RM56.00 per person / 1 Day
  • Hiking & jungle trekking (4 Waterfalls)
  • Stingless honey bee farm visit
  • Fish feeding
  • Lunch
  • Guide(s)
  • Certificate

Package 2 (Night with Maranggoi)

  • Price: RM100 per person / 2 Days 1 Night
  • Hiking & jungle trekking (4 Waterfalls)
  • Breakfast, lunch, dinner
  • Stingless honey bee farm visit
  • Cultural night
  • Fish feeding
  • Guide(s)
  • Certificate

Package 3 (Maranggoi Outdoor / Survival package)

  • Price: RM150 per person / 2 Days 1 Night
  • Hiking & jungle trekking (4 Waterfalls)
  • Camping
  • Bonfire
  • Night hiking (optional)
  • Cultural night (optional)
  • Guide(s)
  • Rice (provided)
  • Certificate
  • Gathering foods from the river and forest

How to get there

Maranggoi is situated in Kampung Pinolobu (GPS: 6.254638, 116.490666, see Location Map) of Kota Belud district and about 84 Kilometres away from Kota Kinabalu city (2 hours by driving). There is paved road in good condition from Kota Kinabalu to this village, except the last 7KM of gravel road (still accessible by sedan). Or you can request them to pick you up in Kota Belud town or Kota Kinabalu city.

Gravel road to Maranggoi Eco Tourism site (Kampung Pinolobu)

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Hounon Ridge, the most family-friendly camping ground

Sabah has many nice vacation places that are unknown to most people. In this information era, you only need to “unlock” them by using meaningful search words. For example, when I google “camping in Ranau”, a popular highland Sabah town with cooling weather. Open sesame! The website, photos and location map of Hounon Ridge show up in search results. No kidding, that’s how I discovered Hounon Ridge when I looked for nice camping site that is near to Mount Kinabalu.

Hounon Ridge (Full Name: Hounon Ridge Farmstay and Camping) is located in Bundu Tuhan, which is 21 KM away from Kinabalu Park. Hounon means foggy in Dusun language. Some tourists outside Sabah had found this wonderful campsite earlier than me. Besides the pleasing weather, Hounon Ridge is a great choice for family and group of friends who want to escape the heat in city and enjoy some cooling temperature.

The building of Hounon Ridge
Camping at Hounon Ridge with Mount Kinabalu view

Camping is a fun get-together activity for close friends and family because if staying in hotel rooms, everyone would stay in their rooms playing smartphone. However, it can be out of their comfort zone if they needs to cook without a kitchen or bath without hot water.

Hounon Ridge and camping ground
Camping and sleeping under the stars

At Hounon Ridge you can enjoy Camping without any inconvenience. The onsite facilities are complete with common kitchen, toilet and bathroom (hot shower), BBQ pit (advanced booking required), cafeteria, and picnic tables. This is probably the most family-friendly campsite I went, consider my past camping sites are quite raw.

Dawn is coming and Kundasang town wakes up in the morning
Campers enjoy a peaceful morning

Their camping ground is a wide and nicely mowed lawn that faces Mt. Kinabalu. During peak season such as school and public holiday, this camping ground would be packed with 20 or more tents. Campers gather to BBQ, chit chat, gaze at the night light of Kundasang town, sleep under the starry sky, and watch the sunrise over Mt. Kinabalu.

Family breakfast with Mount Kinabalu view
Camper friends enjoy breakfast under warm morning sun

You can rent a camping tent from Hounon Ridge (for a fee) and request them to setup for you. Anyway, camping tent is easy to setup. I learnt by watching a short video then can setup one for myself within 5 minutes. It’s a satisfying experience, as if I graduate from an outdoor school.

The big camping ground can fit over 50 camping tents

The camping ground is flat surface carpeted with grass, comfortable to lay on, in contrast to the uneven and rocky ground of other campsites. Though it was a bit cloudy, I could see the Milky Way and photographed it until 3am.

BBQ pit next to camping ground
Dining area, kitchen and cafe area in ground floor

The 2-storey Hounon Ridge is actually an accommodation with standard rooms. Parents who prefer a proper bedroom can stay in the lodge but let their kids try camping outside, which is safe, like camping in the front yard of their house.

Living room on first floor
Morning sun ray hit the feet. Time to wake up

The best time to see Mount Kinabalu is in early morning, before it’s covered by cloud after 9am. You can selfie with this iconic mountain of Malaysia. People would think you camp in Kinabalu Park if you don’t frame the building of Hounon Ridge into your photos.

Shared toilet and bathroom for campers
Check-in counter and living room in ground floor

Accommodation & Fees

The camping fee is MYR20 per night. You also can book a room with them:
Dormitory Bed: MYR35/night
Room (with attached private bathroom): MYR100 – MYR250 per room (rates vary depend on room size and peak season)

Bunk bed dormitory of Hounon Ridge
Rooms of Hounon Ridge Farmstay

You may visit their page or contact them for more info:
Facebook: hounonridge
Phone: +60 13 8506463 (John)
GPS Coordinates: 5.964244, 116.548991 (see Location Map)

Balcony with Mount Kinabalu view

How to get there

On the main road from Kota Kinabalu city to Kinabalu Park, about 3KM before Kinabalu Park you will see a junction with blue road signage labeled “Bundu Tuhan” at your right (see Street Map). Turn into that junction and drive about 8 KM on a narrow countryside road, you will reach Hounon Ridge in 20 minutes.

Road map to Hounon Ridge (source)

The village road is paved but watch out for some bumps and drops, which are hard to spot if you speed.

These girls from Peninsular Malaysia saying goodbye to Mount Kinabalu

Note: Hounon Ridge is temporarily closed now until 14 April 2020 due to Movement Control Order to stop the spread of COVID-19.

Photos taken in Bundu Tuhan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Sabah’s Best Camping Experience at Tegudon Tourism Village

If there is a Most Scenic Campsite award of Sabah, I’ll not hesitate to present it to Tegudon Tourism Village (TTV) in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia. TTV is a campground with countryside theme. Every morning campers are greeted by Mount Kinabalu, the highest mountain of Malaysia. In the afternoon, you can swim with the fishes in the cooling river nearby. And the sunset over lush paddy field is a sight to behold. At night, you can sleep under the Milky Way.

Beautiful scenery of Tegudon Tourism Village

Countryside Theme

In native language (Dusun Tindal), Tegudon means snare trap. The super kampung (village) view of Tegudon Tourism Village consists of paddy field, mountain, hill, river, forest, waterfall, hanging bridge and starry night, the most complete features not found elsewhere.

Kota Belud is the rice bowl of Sabah

The “Village” is a riverside camping area with 9 wooden huts and a camping ground next to a river and paddy field, which is green in the months of January, February, August and September (subject to change), but still Insta-worthy when it is golden color in other time.

Mount Kinabalu and paddy field

In the morning, you would see local farmers carry basket and walk on the 150-Meter-long wobbly hanging bridge to their paddy field. Sometimes cows and buffalo passby the village and chirping free-range chicken forage outside your camp. All these little things reminds you that you are in a village.

Morning view of Tegudon Tourism Village
River and Tegudon Tourism Village (in background)
Children playing with bamboo raft

Though Sabah has warm climate, our river is always cooling, even in hot day. You don’t need to worry about utility bill, just jump into the Tondidigon River there to enjoy the unlimited clean water. This river is a tagal (no fishing) zone to conserve native freshwater fish species such as Pelian. Fyi, you can rent a kayak (MYR20/Hour) or tube float for more fun.

Starry night at Tegudon Tourism Village

The 2-minute video below gives you an overview of Tegudon (my first 4K video!):

Bukit Bendera (Flag Hill)

Blue Mountain is famous in Australia. Our Mount Kinabalu is an enormous blue mountain too. Tegudon is one of the best spots to see Mt. Kinabalu up-close because Kota Belud is the ancient gateway to Mt. Kinabalu.

Hiking to Bukit Bendera (Flag Hill)

Mount Kinabalu is such a prominent landscape. Any photo with it as background will look great, so I want to photograph her in different spots for some fresh angles. From the photos online, I know the peak of Bukit Bendera (literally means Flag Hill) near Tegudon has one of the most beautiful but less-seen view of Mt. Kinabalu.

Found these beautiful rubber tree seeds on the way. It brings back my childhood memory.

Normally the best time to see Mount Kinabalu is in early morning, before she is hidden in cloud after 8am, so I decided to start climbing as early as possible. Tegudon Tourism Village arranged a friendly guide, Matthew, to accompany me, because there is no signage or marker to show the way.

On the peak of Bukit Bendera (peak marker at the right)

We started hiking at 6:30am, shortly after the sunrise. We passed through paddy field, forest, rubber plantation, and a few streams. In the beginning the trail is quite flat and under tree shade. They advise to start hiking before 8:30am to avoid the hot sun.

Aerial view of Bukit Bendera

When we were getting near to the peak, we came to an open space with panoramic view of hills and grassland. The last 1 km is a few 25 inclination slopes and mostly gravel road dotted with rocks that have glittering silica grains on them.

Mount Kinabalu behind the hills near Bukit Bendera

We reached the peak of Bukit Bendera by 7:48am. The height of Bukit Bendera is about 960 feet (293 Meters). It’s not very challenging and no climbing is required. We were very lucky that day, the sky was so clear that Mt. Kinabalu could be seen clearly until 10am. The scenery of Mt. Kinabalu with rolling green hills in front is breathtaking. Matthew was apologetic for some burn marks on the hill caused by forest fire in drought. It’s ok bro.

Wasai Waterfall

After taking some photos on Bukit Bendera, we continued to walk to Wasai Waterfall, which is only a Kilometre away and mostly descending route with a few steep sections that need rope support.

Walking to Wasai Waterfall

We arrived Wasai Waterfall after 45 minutes. Another group of visitors also joined us 20 minutes later. A few of them were wearing short and slippers, I’m trying to say the hike is not difficult.

Morning view of Wasai Waterfall

The deepest part of waterfall pond is about 7 to 8 feet deep. The water is clean and clear, safe for a swim. I sat on a rock, admiring the look of sun-ray beaming into the water. After some rest, we return to the camp before noon.

Wasai Waterfall

The guide fee is MYR50 for a 1 to 5 people group (Route: Tegudon Camp ? Bukit Bendera ? Wasai Waterfall ? Tegudon Camp). They say the loop trail is 12 Kilometres in distance. If you trust my experience, the round trip to Bukit Bendera and Wasai Waterfall is no more than 8 KM.

Morning sun-ray beams through the clear water of Wasai Waterfall

Camping & Hut

TTV can accommodate up to 100 campers at a time (fit 50 people comfortably). To camp in Tegudon Tourism Village, you can choose to stay in camping tent or wooden hut. The rental fee for hut is MYR15 per day, and the check-in/out time is 5:00pm. Currently 9 huts are available, and more are under construction.

Camping ground of Tegudon Tourism Village

If you don’t bring your own camping tent, you can rent one at TTV with the following size and rates:
2 people = MYR20
3 people = MYR30
4 people = MYR35
6 people = MYR40
The entrance fee is MYR3 (Malaysian Adult), MYR1 (Malaysian Kid (7-12 years)), MYR7 (Non-Malaysian Adult) or MYR3 (Non-Malaysian Kid) per person. Overnight camping fee is MYR7 (Malaysian Adult), MYR3 (Malaysian Kid (13-18 years)), MYR13 (Non-Malaysian Adult) or MYR7 (Non-Malaysian Kid (7-12 years)) per person. Please visit their Facebook for most updated and complete prices.

External and inside views of the hut

I prefer hut because I need a lot of space for photography equipment. And it is very tiring for me to keep crawling in and out small camping tent to take my camera. The floor of the hut is a bit dusty so you better bring a mat.

The hut is about 10×7 feet in space. It has a long bench (too narrow to sleep on), a fluorescent lamp and a power point to charge your phone and power bank. You can bring a multi-plug so you can charge more than one electronic device at a time.

One power point is available in the hut

The hut is unfurnished, but they are kind to provide me a plastic chair and desk. There are staffs on duty between 8am to 5pm in the camp if you need anything. If you stay in hut, you better buy some mosquito coils (and lighter) from them before night, for a good sleep.

Farmer crossing bridge to paddy field in the morning

During my stay, it was very cooling and windy at night due to Northeast Monsoon. I couldn’t believe I was shivering. Therefore, you better bring some warm clothing just in case. Anyway, my wooden hut was sturdy against strong wind, I didn’t feel any shake.

Meals

If you don’t want to cook and plan to BBQ, you can request TTV to provide food (need to book in advance). I must say their food is underrated, and I was so looking forward to every meal.

Yummy meal provided by Tegudon Tourism Village

The menu may vary. Usually breakfast consists of fried noodle, boiled egg, Milo (chocolate hot drink), hot water in thermos flask and some snacks such as donuts and bun. For lunch and dinner, normally it’s white rice, 2 vegetables, 1 meat/fish dish, soup, and a 500-ML bottle of drinking water. The serving is quite big portion.

Rice wrapped in big leaf (called Linopot)

The dishes are same as what the locals eat, very balance diet. I’m happy to avoid high fat and sugar food. The white rice is SOooooo good! The cook says it is from that paddy field next door and would be more aromatic if it’s freshly harvested. It’s available for sale there too.

BBQ pit

Below is the prices and meal times (rates as of Mar 2020):

  • Breakfast: MYR7 (6:45am)
  • Lunch: MYR12 (12:30pm)
  • Dinner: MYR12 (6:30pm)

Amenities

There are shared toilet and bathroom (with male / female sections) in campsite. Sorry no water heater. You would dance a bit if you are not used to cold shower.

Toilet and bathroom

You can buy some common items in the sundry shop of TTV, for example, drinking water, cold carbonated drink, cookies, instant noodle, 3-in-1 instant drink, soap, detergent, tooth paste, cooking oil, tomato / soya sauce, and mosquito coil, at reasonable price. I can’t find any beer though.

Sundry shop of Tegudon Tourism Village and the things they sell.

So basically you can just go to TTV without bringing anything except clothing, sleeping bag and some toiletries. You can buy and rent almost everything you need there, before the sundry shop there closes at 5pm.

How to Get there

You can book everything with them via Facebook Messenger. They usually can confirm within an hour. They can understand and reply in English. Below are their contact:

Facebook: tegudontourismvillage
Instagram: @tegudontourismvillage
Phone (Whatsapp): +60 13-6024089 (Liko), +60 11-16035532 (Mathew)
E-mail: barrazz_89@yahoo.com
GPS: 6.289767, 116.523219 (See Location Map)

You can have different view of Mount Kinabalu at TTV

Driving to this campsite from Kota Kinabalu city takes about 2 hours (for 80 KM). You can get there easily by using mobile apps such as Waze or Google Map (search for Tegudon Tourism Village). The road is paved and in good condition. You also can park next to your camp / hut.

Things to Bring

  • Clothing
  • Sleeping bag
  • Swim wear
  • Jacket
  • Towel
  • Toiletries: soap, tooth brush, tooth paste, tissue paper / toilet roll
  • Drinking water
  • Flashlight
  • Sunblock lotion
  • Insect repellent
  • Mosquito coin and lighter
  • Sandal / Slipper
  • Raincoat / Umbrella
  • Power bank and Charger

Optional:

  • Dry Bag
  • Multi-plug
  • Food
  • Snacks and Energy Bars
  • Spoon, Fork, Lunch Box, Cup
  • Pen & notepad

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Turtle Sanctuary and Glamping at Libaran Island

What a tourist couple did really touched me. I was buying cake in a bakery in Kota Kinabalu City. At the cashier counter, an Australian couple declined to use plastic bag to store their purchase. They explained to their children, “We shouldn’t use plastic bag because if it’s dumped into the sea, turtle would think it’s food and eat it, and that can kill it.” I’m so grateful that foreigners care about our turtles. On the other hand, I feel ashamed that Malaysians generate about 4,000 metric tonnes of plastic waste every day, and these contribute to plastic found on one-third of the coral reefs in the Asia-Pacific region.

Jellyfish is the food of sea turtle, and plastic bag is often mistaken as jellyfish by turtles

Therefore, I see hope when Libaran Island, which used to be a turtle grave, has become a turtle sanctuary and a new tourism attraction now. Before a turtle hatchery was established there in 2012, every turtle egg laid on Libaran would end up in the stomach of villagers and stray dogs on the island. After 5 years, this hatchery has saved more than 27,486 turtle eggs!

Releasing baby turtles to the wild

And Top 4 Reasons to visit Libaran Island? #Turtle #Glamping #Stargazing #Sunset

About Libaran Island

With a population of 450 people, Libaran (GPS: 6.120437, 118.030001, see Location Map) is a 450-acre (about 2 sq KM) island located 45 minutes away by boat from Sandakan, the second largest city of Sabah, Malaysian Borneo. Though Libaran is only 5 minutes away from the famous Turtle Islands Park (a.k.a. Selingan) of Sabah, unfortunately it is not inside the boundary of this protected park.

Beach of Libaran Island during low tide

If turtle landed on the wrong island, that’s the end of their cycle of life when villagers collected their eggs. Luckily this is changed by Alex Yee, a business-minded conservationist, who creates Walai Penyu Conservation Park with a win-win model for the locals and turtles.

Beautiful mangrove tree in Libaran

Trip to Libaran Island

Turtle sighting in scuba diving is always a delightful experience. This gentle reptile swims gracefully and look really chill underwater. We can’t call a diving destination a top dive site if it has no turtle. Turtle is also the Guardian of Coral Triangle because it maintains the health of marine ecosystems. If turtles are safe, our tourism and environment will do well.

Group photo of divers with the friendly turtle. But we were not allowed to touch it or we would be banned for next dive.

What’s better than looking at the turtle up-close? Malaysia is home to four species of turtles, namely, Leatherback, Green, Hawksbill, and Olive Ridley turtles, all are endangered due to pollution and poaching. When Alex invited me to his Walai Penyu Resort on Libaran Island last month, I said YES x 100 without thinking.

Alex named his boat “Tora” to commemorate his dog

In a sunny afternoon, our boat to Libaran departed from the Sabah Parks jetty located at Sandakan Yacht Club. If you book a tour with Walai Penyu Resort, they will provide boat and land transfer (Walai = Stay Together and Penyu = Turtle in local language).

Stunning red cliffs of Berhala Island

On the way to Libaran, you would pass by Berhala Island, a very beautiful island with distinctive red cliffs. Sadly, its beach is covered by so many junk that it never becomes a tourist attraction. If the locals love their environment more, they would have a nice island for weekend outing now. Rubbish is like karma, we will pay for our wrongdoing.

Approaching Libaran Island

The ocean was calm and we reached Libaran Island after 45 minutes of smooth ride. It’s a fairly densely vegetated flat island, without any high ground and tall building. Turtles love such pristine beach with little development. Too much noise and artificial light will drive mother turtle away.

You can see the corals in crystal clear water

Though we were about 100 Metres away from shore, the water was only knee depth, and I could see the lush corals clearly. Our boat cruised slowly to avoid crushing the corals.

Nesting spots of sea turtles

Finally we landed on the golden beach of Libaran, the cradle of turtles. Their staff already waited for us with wheelbarrow and transferred our bags to Walai Penyu Resort.

Landing track of mother turtle on the beach

Apparently we are not the only visitors here. Tracks and traces of turtle landing are everywhere. We found nesting sites under the shrubs, on the beach and near the camp.

Glamping at Walai Penyu Resort

We check-in to our room. Actually it’s a glamping tent, which is larger than standard camp and spacious enough to fit in two beds and a desk. The camp is very clean and located on the beach.

Glamping ground of Walai Penyu Resort in Libaran Island

Glamping is becoming a trend for travellers who love to be close to nature but stay comfortable with adequate setup. In short, Glamping is a luxury version of Camping. I have done camping many times, glamping is new to me, and it definitely offers a more family-friendly and enjoyable stay than camping.

Glamping is where stunning nature meets modern luxury

To minimise the impact to the environment, there are only 8 dome-shaped tents in Walai Penyu Resort to host up to 16 guests each day. Lighting is kept to minimum to avoid disturbing nesting turtles.

Experience glamping on Libaran Island

Bathroom in Walai Penyu Resort

The tents have side windows covered with mosquito net. You can unzip them for sea breeze or view. As our tents are very near to the beach, it’s quite windy and we could hear sea waves clearly.

Toilet and shower room on the island

The common toilet and bathroom have lot of open spaces that allow good ventilation, so the place is dry, clean and doesn’t smell.

Beautiful Libaran

Turtle usually comes after dusk. It’s still early, so I strolled around the island. With me were three lady editors (Alison, Carmen and San) for China social media. If you want to walk one around of this island, the walking distance is 6.5 KM, which takes about 1.5 hours.

These mangrove trees can prevent beach erosion

Near our glamping site is a few patches of lush mangrove trees. Alex told us that at night we could find fireflies there. The entangled roots of these old mangrove trees are so fascinating, some looks like bonsai.

Little mangrove “island”

I asked Carmen to be my model. Being professional, she didn’t hesitate to climb up and down the tree for some perfect shots (the mangrove root is quite slippery). Of course the outcome is brilliant. Instagram is full of cliche photos on sandy beach, so we are happy to bag many special shots.

From Left: Alison, Carmen, San and Alex Yee

Due to low tide, the water was very shallow and tempting, so we walked in the sea water to feel the soft sand and warm water running through our toes.

You can walk to Racket Island during low tide

Less than 2 KM away is Racket Island, where you can find the “tomb” of turtles. You can walk to that island during low tide. But do return before high tide or you have to swim back to Libaran.

Thanks Carmen for climbing up there for a great shot

The beach is long and litter-free. The cleanliness is not by accident. Alex divides the beach into dozens of 100-Metres lot, and pays villagers MYR100/month to keep their allocated slot clean.

This mangrove tree looks like bonsai

Clean beach is not only for tourists, but good for the turtles too. By regularly removing driftwood, plastics and other washed-up trash from the beach, turtles don’t need to crawl over piles of debris to lay their eggs on the beach.

Alex spent 3.5 years to collect 3,500 mineral bottles to build this little house

Alex has been buying plastic bottles from these cleaners for 3.5 years. He showed us his masterpiece he created with these plastic.

Plastic House Cafe?

It’s a 300 sq-ft plastic house which took 5 weeks to build from 3,500 one-litre plastic bottles. This house reminds me that Malaysia is the 8th largest producer of mismanaged plastic wastes. Guess that’s the message Alex tries to tell (and show) the world.

Fishermen return home after fishing

Then Alex went back to the camp to prepare other activities for us. We continued to explore other side of the island. There is a garrison on the island. I saw police and dogs patrolled on the beach, so I feel safe.

Peaceful dusk at Libaran

The sea view was ravishing. We forgot the time until dusk was approaching, and the cloud was like in fire. It’s the famous flaming sunset of Sabah. We chased for the sunset view and reached a peaceful fishing village on other end of the island. The friendly villagers smiled at us while busy preparing for the nightfall. This is just an ordinary fishing village, but looks so surreal under the sunset.

Fisherman walking to the sunset

Inspiring Success Story

By the time we were back to our resort, yummy dinner was already served under a canopy. During meal time, Alex shared some stories about his conservation project on Libaran. It wasn’t a smooth sail. If I were him, I would had given up.

Dinner on Libaran Island

Turtles have existed for over 200 million years, but if nothing is done, human can wipe them out in 10 years. Unlike Ninja Turtle, the shell of turtles can’t protect them from human greed. Turtles are fully protected by wildlife act in Sabah and Sarawak only. In some states of Peninsular Malaysia, turtle eggs are sold openly and it’s legal to consume them.

Mangrove seedling

However, without any enforcement on a remote island such as Libaran, the locals were eating the turtle eggs. I’m not saying that the villagers there are bad. Turtle eggs have been the main source of protein for islanders for many generations. Now for conservation, we have to take this away from these poor villagers, so it isn’t hard to understand why they are unhappy.

Variety of corals exposed during low tide

Besides stop eating turtle eggs, we must not harass turtles too. Let me tell you a real case. Rantau Abang in Terengganu used to the most popular nesting location of leatherback turtle. In 1950s, there were more than 10,000 nesting spots. Then tourists came and ride on their back and flipped them over for fun. The consequence is – almost 0 sighting of leatherback there for last 5 years.

Sometimes it’s a bit windy on Libaran

Libaran is blessed because they act soon enough to prevent the repeat of Rantau Abang tragedy there. In 2011, Sabah Wildlife Department sought collaboration with Alex to protect the turtles on Libaran, because the villagers collecting turtle eggs. However, its a hot potato, not cash cow, being handed over to Alex. The former village head didnt support his conservation work and even tried to stop his team from collecting turtle eggs.

Lovely morning of Libaran Island

Deeply dismayed by many challenges and people issues, Alex thought about quitting in Nov 2015. His visit to Libaran in Feb 2016 was supposed to be a goodbye trip. Then a turtle laid 70 eggs in front of his tent. Alex saw this as a sign and decided to continue. Due to his perseverance, Alex has successfully established a new turtle stronghold on Libaran. Its a victory in Sabah conservation.

Alison recording a time-lapsed video for sea tide

Just a trivia. During World War II, about 2 or 3 British prisoners of war escaped the infamous dead march, and one of them was hiding on Libaran until he was rescued by US Navy after the war. Many years later, his son visited Libaran and found that the father of Alex’s employee is the one who rescued his dad.

We still could see starry sky though that night was cloudy

Libaran is also a great place for stargazing, since they keep the light to minimal. I saw many stars in the sky, but it was covered by dense cloud shortly.

Good Night!

Before we went to bed, Alex said, “Tonight it will be high tide. We have good chance to see turtle landing.” And he was right.

Turtle Landing!

Because of the comfortable sea breeze and sound of sea waves, I had a deep sleep until I heard Alex was talking on walkie-talkie around 3:20am. I waked up and saw him standing outside his tent. From his serious expression, I knew a turtle has landed. I followed behind him with a torchlight.

Hawksbill turtle landed on Libaran

There are a total of 401 turtle landing (75% Green Turtle, 25% Hawksbill Turtle) on Libaran between 2013 and 2017.

Turtle laying eggs on Libaran Island

And yay!!! We saw a Hawksbill turtle about 200 Metres away from our campsite, and it laid eggs under a tree near to beach. We were so excited but we had to observe it quietly from a distance. If disturbed, mother turtle would abort the nesting and turn back to the sea. Sabah has the largest population of hawksbills in Malaysia.

Mother turtles only come to land for laying eggs. They will dig a hole with their legs, lay eggs, then cover them with sand. To me it’s bizarre. Imagine human who lives on land, but give birth a baby in the sea.

Moving the turtle eggs to hatchery for better survival rate

This Hawksbill turtle laid 149 eggs that morning, breaking the 3-year-old highest record of 146 eggs! According to Alex, Libaran got one turtle landing every 3 days in average. They prefer to come during high tide, so they don’t need to crawl a long way to the beach.

Turtle Hatchery

After the mother turtle left, the trained staff collected the eggs carefully and moved them to the hatchery near to our camp. This measure can increase the survival rate of hatching up to 90 per cent.

Turtle Hatchery on Libaran Island

Turtle eggs look like ping-pong ball, and are delicious treat for crabs, monitor lizards and birds. Therefore, we have to place a circular wire mesh enclosure around the nest, so these predators can’t dig the nest.

Each nest in hatchery is labelled with date, number of eggs and turtle species

The nest is also labelled with information such as date, number of eggs and turtle species. The eggs will hatch after 45 to 55 days. Do you know that temperature can set the sex of a hatching? Cooler temperatures lead to a male, while hotter sand leads to a female.

This 4-ha hatchery was setup in July 2012 by Alex Yee at the site chosen by Sabah Wildlife Department. It’s named as Taman Hadiah, which means Gift Garden. It hatches about 4,000 eggs every month in average (73% Green Turtle, 27% Hawksbill).

From 2013 until 2017, the hatchery had collected 20,022 Green turtle eggs and 7,464 Hawksbill turtle eggs. On 1 March 2018, they will celebrate the release of 30,000th turtle!

I’m happy to witness the release of a few dozens baby turtles that evening. They usually release them at night to avoid the predators. Once freed, the baby turtles will head to the moonlight and enter the sea.

Releasing baby turtles to the wild

Another amazing thing happens during the release, these baby turtles will register the magnetic signature of this beach as their “home point”. Even after 25 years, the female turtle can rely on Earth’s magnetic field to navigate back to her exact birthplace to lay eggs.

Only 1 in 1,000 of baby turtles can make it to adulthood

There is one cruel fact I hope I don’t have to tell you. Only one in a thousand baby turtles will survive. So every egg counts.

By the way, if you see any sneaky fellow in Sandakan City that shows you Ok sign in the street, bash him because he is selling turtle eggs illegally (but double check in case he is really a friendly Sandakian).

Leaving Libaran Island with happy faces

In Sabah, anyone caught in possession or consuming turtle eggs could be fined MYR50,000 or be jailed five years, or both, if convicted. That means you are as guilty as seller if you are buying turtle eggs.

Walai Penyu Libaran is one of the few places in Sabah where you can experience glamping

However, due to weak enforcement, these sellers are still around and certainly enjoy good business. I hope the authority will also prosecute the buyers to the fullest extent by law. This will send a strong warning to buyers that buying turtle eggs is also a crime.

How to get there

A visit to this new turtle island is highly recommended to those who want to see the miracles of nature. Day trip and overnight tour are available. For more information or booking, please contact Walai Penyu Resort via the following channels:
Facebook: WalaiPenyuResort
Website: walaipenyuresort.com
E-mail: sales@trekkerslodge.com
Phone: +60 16-8310168 (cellphone), +60 88-260263 (office)

View of our campsite after sunrise

At the end, I would like to compliment Alex Yee for his dedication in conservation. What he does far exceeds the scope of Corporate Service Responsibility (CSR). It’s a long term commitment, not a one-time beach clean-up or symbolically planting a few trees. I hope more visitors will visit Libaran to support the turtle conservation there. Please learn from the story of Rantau Abang and don’t be the generation that bully turtles.

Photos taken in Sandakan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Serinsim, a different face of Kinabalu Park

A family is having a hard time to plan a holiday trip at a destination that makes everyone happy.

Grandfather: “I want to learn some local history and legend.”
Mother: “How about a BBQ feast?”
Father: “Let’s climb a mountain.”
Son: “Camping and jungle trekking will be fun!”
Daughter: “I love swimming in river.”

Location of Serinsim (Sorinsim) and Kinabalu Park

Finally they decide to visit Serinsim (or Sorinsim) in Kota Marudu, which has all these. There is no second place in Sabah where we can find river, waterfall, forest, cave, mountain and historical site in one park.

Signage to different attractions inside Serinsim. It’s ok if you can’t read Malay. I’ll tell you what they are later.

Serinsim is a substation in northern part of Kinabalu Park, the first UNESCO World Heritage Site of Malaysia. Lies between the Serinsim and Kanarom rivers, the river of Serinsim is straight from the undisturbed rainforest and mountain, so its water is crystal clear and almost as good as Spritzer.

Kanarom River in Serinsim (Sorinsim)

You may be familiar with the mountainous zone in Kinabalu Park HQ in Kundasang highland. Serinsim is at opposite side of HQ, which is dominated by lowland rainforest, shows different face of Kinabalu Park. Most locals only come here to enjoy the cooling river, without knowing that Serinsim has the following special attractions:

1. Mount Nombuyukong (Gunung Nombuyukong)

With a height of 1,603.57 Meters, Mt. Nombuyukong is 976 Metres lower than its sister peak, Mt. Tambuyukon, the third highest mountain of Malaysia. Mount Nombuyukong can be conquered within a day.

Mount Nombuyukong in Serinsim

>> Read about the challenging climb to Mt. Nombuyukong…

2. Bat Cave (Gua Kelawar)

Gua Kelawar is a small cave about 200 Meters long, and it is for the adventurous you who like the idea of exploring the unknown. *Hint:* many creeping critters in the darkness. I saw rare mushroom and endemic begonia outside the cave.

The rocky wall of Bat Cave (Gua Kelawar) in Serinsim

>> Read my scary story inside Bat Cave…

3. Misumpak Waterfall

Serinsim is more than a park for swimming and picnic only. Do a jungle trekking to visit the 12-Meter Misumpak Waterfall. Soaking in its cooling ponds will be one of the best nature experience, I promise. You would see hornbill, civet, red leaf monkey, orangutan and other wildlife on the way.

Misumpak Waterfall and its pond

>> Read more about Misumpak Waterfall…

4. Gambaliu, the Tallest Man in the World

According to the local legend, a giant named Gambaliu lived here about two to three thousand years ago. With a height of 24 feet, Gambaliu is taller than giraffe. He was a gentle and helpful giant. However, what his people did after he died was sort of… heartless.

Tomb of Gambaliu, the tallest man

>> See the Tomb of Gambaliu…

5. Sigunting Graveyard

Sick of those cliche movies about superheroes saving the mankind? Let’s hear the story of real Sabah hero, Si-Gunting, who fought British imperialism for 7 years.

Graveyard of Sigunting, a Sabahan hero

>> Read more about Sigunting…

6. Deer Farm

About 120 Meters from the hostel (Asrama Kanarom) is a 0.5-Acre of fenced and forested Deer Farm. The best time to visit is the feeding time at 2pm, the time about 10 Sambar deers show up for jackfruit, tapioca leaves, banana, and fruits given by the Park.

Deer Farm of Serinsim. Visitors can walk up to the tower for better view.

Below is the trail and layout map of Serinsim. Please note that for most jungle trekking activities, you are required to hire a guide from the Park, which can be arranged easily one day in advance.

Trail map to different attractions in Serinsim. Translation: Pejabat = Office, Galeri = Gallery, Pondok = Gazebo, Pelawat = Visitor, Tapak Perkhemahan = Camping Ground, Tandas Awam = Public Toilet, Dapur = Kitchen, Sungai = River, Sg. = River, Anak Sungai = Small River, Jalan Raya = Road, Jambatan Kerata = Bridge for Car, Air Terjun = Waterfall, Makam = Grave, Puncak = Peak, Kem = Camp, Ke = To

Accommodation

Three chalets and one hostel are available to accommodate three families and 24 people respectively in the Park. Below is a quick comparison of the price. The rate is as of July 2017, and GST tax is included.

Accommodation TypeRate per Night
CampingAdult: MYR5.30 (≈USD$1.32)
Below 12: MYR2.15 (≈USD$0.53)
Hostel (Asrama Kanarom)Adult: MYR42.40 (≈USD$10.60)
Below 18: MYR31.80 (≈USD$7.95)
Chalet1 Chalet: MYR318.00 (≈USD$79.50)
1 Room: MYR106 (≈USD$26.50)

Notes: Check-out time is 11:00am. Non-halal food such as pork is forbidden in the accommodation. The accommodation is not well-maintained. Before you unpack your luggage, make sure everything in your room is functioning (e.g. water supply, light, air-cond). Just in case anything is broken, you can change to other room quickly.

Asrama Kanarom Hostel

Asrama Kanarom Hostel is a dormitory-style one storey building which has four bedrooms, common toilet + bathroom and kitchen. Each room has 6 bunk beds, so this hostel can host about 24 people.

Asrama Kanarom Hostel in Serinsim
Interior of Asrama Kanarom Hostel in Serinsim

The fee for each bunk bed in hostel is MYR42.40 for adult and MYR31.80 for kid (below 18 years old). The room has air-conditioner, and pillow and blanket are provided. It’s an economic choice for budget travelers and student group who don’t mind to share room.

Bunk beds in Asrama Kanarom Hostel

The kitchen has gas stove, cooking and dining utensils for use by the guests. Electricity and water supply are available all time.

Kitchen of Asrama Kanarom Hostel

However, there is no private bathroom. Guests can share the common unisex toilet and bathroom. Sorry, no water heater for a hot shower, but you can boil hot water in kitchen like what I did.

Toilet cum shower room, cooking area, utensils and refrigerator in Asrama Kanarom Hostel

One nice thing about this hostel is that it’s located next to the starting point of trail to all nature attractions.

Chalets

There are three chalets in the Park. You can book the whole chalet for MYR318 per night, or rent a room for MYR106. Each chalet has three rooms (two of them are single bed). Each chalet is limited for 6 people. For additional guests, you need to pay extra MYR30 per person.

There are 3 chalets in Serinsim Substation
Chalets of Serinsim

Each room has an attached bathroom cum toilet. Heater for hot shower is not available. Soap and towel are provided for the guest. Every room has air-conditioning.

Chalet of Serinsim (or Sorinsim). At the left is Mt. Nombuyukong
Bedroom, living room and kitchen of Serinsim Chalet

Camping

Camping ground is also available to those who desire a more nature experience. For adult, the camping fee per night is MYR5.30 and MYR2.15 for child below 12. You can rent a camping tent for MYR30/day at Sabah Parks office, or bring your own.

Camping ground of Serinsim
Gazebo and benches at camping site

The campsite is just next to the river. There are gazebos, benches, public toilet and kitchen nearby that area.

Campers in Serinsim
Kitchen near camping ground

There is no lighting at night, so you better bring your camping light and torchlight.

Barbecue party at the hostel

There is no TV, karaoke and night life in the park, so you will get bored in the evening. Do plan some fun activities for the night, for example, board games, BBQ party, strip poker, watch movies on laptop.

Playing Uno in the hostel (Asrama Kanarom)

By the way, Kota Marudu is famous for its maize. You can buy some along the way and grill it, it’s delicious.

Layout Map of Serinsim Substation

Don’t be impressed by the facilities listed in the map above. Everything in Serinsim is basic, nothing 5-star. For example, the so called soccer field is just a grassland. The restaurant never opens and there is no gallery.

How to get there

Serinsim is about 32 KM from Kota Marudu town and 130 KM away from Kota Kinabalu City (capital of Sabah). This substation is now highly accessible after asphalt highway is complete in 2013. The GPS coordinate is 6.293915, 116.707986 (see Location Map).

Asphalt road to Serinsim in Kota Marudu

In the past you needed a 4-wheel drive to get in. That might be the reason why Serinsim is one of the least explored parks in Sabah. There is no bus goes directly to Serinsim.

You will pass through Marak-Parak Village and Sorinsim Village before you reach Serinsim

You also can go to Serinsim from Poring Hot Springs, the 46-KM road is in good condition.

Signage at the entrance. Translation: Welcome to Kinabalu Park, Serinsim Sub-Station, Kota Marudu

Things to Note

For a better travel experience at Serinsim, please take note of the following:

  1. There is no restaurant in the Park. You can prepare your own food in their kitchen, buy food from villages nearby (The shops are usually roadside residential run by villagers with signage such as Gerai Makan (Food Stall) or Kedai Runcit (Grocery Store)), or drive 30 minutes to Kota Marudu town looking for restaurant.
  2. The mobile line coverage is none or poor in the Park. My Maxis line got 0 bar. Celcom may work. Anyway, let’s prepare to be offline there.
  3. Bring insect repellent. There are mosquitoes in shaded area during dusk and dawn.
  4. There is a grocery shop and cafe outside the park entrance.
  5. Most area in Park has no light. Bring a torchlight if you would move around in the Park at night, especially campers.
Sabah Parks office and car park of Serinsim (Sorinsim)

Entrance Fee

The following is the ticket fee to enter the park. They only accept cash in Ringgit Malaysia (MYR).

ItemFee / Rate
Conservation FeeMalaysian: MYR10.00
Foreigner: MYR50.00
Below 18 years old: MYR5.00 and MYR25.00 respectively
Conservation Fee with effect from 1 Jan 2023
Ticket counter at the entrance of Serinsim (Sorinsim)

Serinsim is managed by Sabah Parks. For more information about Serinsim, you may browse www.sabahparks.org.my or call the head office of Sabah Parks in Kota Kinabalu at +60 88-523500.

Photos taken in Kota Marudu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Climbing Mount Wakid (Gunung Wakid)

If you want to feel on top of the world and enjoy some breathtaking view, climb a mountain! For hikers who only want a day trip to conquer a mountain that is not too high to be overwhelming, but also not too low to be unexciting, Mount Wakid (Gunung Wakid in Malay language) in Tambunan is for you then. Even if you live in Kota Kinabalu City (KK), which is 80 KM away from Tambunan, you can finish the climb and back home on the same day.

You can see Mount Wakid (Gunung Wakid) at the roadside near Tambunan

Sabah is mountainous with over half of its land above 1,000 Meters above sea level, and Mt. Kinabalu is not the only beautiful mountain. No two mountains look the same. Standing at 1,372 Meters (4,501 Feet), Mount Wakid is distinctly different from other Sabah mountains that I climbed before. It’s also about the same height as Ben Nevis (1,346 Meters), the highest mountain on island of Great Britain and a popular destination that attracts about 100,000 ascents annually.

Wakid is a bamboo basket used by villagers to carry fruits & vegetables until today.

According to locals, in the past, an Odu-Odu (grandma) went to Mount Wakid to harvest some forest produces. She disappeared, so every villagers were searching for her on the mountain. However, villagers couldn’t find her except her wakid (a bamboo basket used by native to collect fruit & vegetables). That’s how Mount Wakid got its name.

View of Mount Wakid (Gunung Wakid) from the road

When you head to Tambunan town from KK, about 10 KM before the town, you could see Mount Wakid prominently at the left of the road. Its long and crooked crest running parallel to the hilly road, like the spine of a dragon. No wonder the locals believe a Tombuokar (dragon) is living in this mountain. Every time I looked at this “crouching dragon”, it was like calling me to have a ride on its back. The most unique characteristics of Mount Wakid is – it is chartreuse in color.

Climbing Mt. Wakid (Gunung Wakid)

Mount Wakid is located in the state land of Kampung Sunsuron (Sunsuron Village). Its hill forest is kept intact to protect this mountain as a water catchment area. The villagers see Mount Wakid as an important source of water to irrigate their crops. It is only in Nov 2015 that they started promoting their “backyard” mountain as an attraction.

Group photo of climbers (with Mt. Wakid behind us, note the red arrow)

Yes, 1,372-Meter is quite an enormous height for a day climb. But no worry, we started our climb from Sunsuron Village, which is located at 780 Meter above sea level, so we only need to ascend less than 600 Meters (1,969 feet) to reach the top. Sound easy but remember three rules of mountaineering, which state, “It’s always further than it looks. It’s always taller than it looks. And it’s always harder than it looks.”

Route map and elevation profile of our climb to Mount Wakid. You can download the KML (for Google Earth) or GPX (for GPS device such as Can-Am Garmin Montana 650T GPS 715002081) file of the route map to see full detail.

Here is the summary of the climb. The total distance of return trip is 9.75 KM. We hiked 5 KM via the new Jinkung Trail to the summit (GPS of the Highest Peak: 5.770667, 116.369209; see Location Map), then descend via the 4.75-KM Standard Trail back to Sunsuron Village.

Pass by the village on the way to the summit

We departed from Sunsuron Village at 8:30 AM, reached the summit at 12:30pm and came back at 4pm. If possible, you should move as early as 7am. Though Tambunan has cooling weather (about 25ºC / 77ºF), it’s still pretty warm in the afternoon.

Waving at the cute preschool children

In the beginning, we walked through the village houses and the local schools, before we entered the plantation at the edge of the village.

Awww….♥♥♥! These lovely local children will melt your heart

We passed by a preschool and the kids were so excited to see us. They screamed and waved at us, so adorable. Actually their smiles are the most memorable part of my climb.

Scenic countryside view along the way

After 10 minutes, we exited the residential area and passed through the farmland and grassland outside the village.

The clean river from Mt. Wakid

In the first 3 KM, we walked on flat ground most of the time. We only came across a few gradual slopes. It wasn’t challenging but we needed to be vigilant, especially at the narrow and slippery soil trail on the slope. We took a short break every 1 KM.

Mount Wakid is far ahead

When we walked in paddy fields and meadow in open space, the sun was baking us. It’s so warm and I saw no farmer working in the field. Luckily I brought an umbrella so I just used it. Other climbers may think that I’m a wuss. Anyway, I think it’s a good idea because the shade reduces the heat and keeps me comfortable.

Crossing the creek

We crossed a few creeks without getting wet. The water is cold and super clean. I saw some “salad rivers” because the water is planted with a lot of leafy green “Sayur Hong Kong” (Watercress), which is commonly used in salad and sandwiches. As we moved deeper to backcountry zone, the forest was getting denser.

Jingkung Trail

We arrived the starting point of Jingkung Trail around 11:15am and prepared for the last 1 KM push to the summit. Jingkung Trail is a new summit trail which is longer and more challenging than the standard trail. This route is thrilling for veteran hikers who want more adventurous experience.

The start of challenging Jingkung Trail

However, Jingkung Trail could be quite tough and risky for inexperienced climbers, though all our newbie team members made it with some efforts. The trail is fairly steep, and we have to use our hands to move up some near-vertical route. We joked with one another that this trail should be named as the “Spiderman Trail”.

Jingkung Trail to the summit

Mount Wakid is a new destination, so the trail is 100% nature and have no climbing aid such as ladder, handrail, boardwalk and trail signage. Our guide setup rope support in a few difficult spots. You would be happy to know that there is no leech all the way.

The last 1 KM trail to the top is quite steep. It’s Mr. Jingkung in the photo at the right

Someone says, “Climbing is action, it’s about doing, acting, trying. Words don’t get you up a vertical rock face or to a remote mountain summit.” That’s right, either you are up there, or you are not. Talking won’t take you there. I love the moment of keeping my mouth shut and fight my way up with crystal clear goal, as I believe action speaks louder than words.

Reaching the ridge

As I was approaching the top at crawling speed, the trees became shorter and sparser. I knew I was near when I saw light on top. Then we we were welcomed by a PVC banner which meant we had reached the ridge and the summit wasn’t far away. I was gasping for breath and glad that the hardest part was over.

View from the mountain (behind the PVC banner)

The Peaks

Here we were on the ridge of Mount Wakid. At this altitude, I expected to see lower montane forest with mossy environment. Instead, the top of Mt Wakid is dominated by a dwarf tree called Pokok Tagai locally. Its yellowish green leaves form the beautiful cap of Mt. Wakid.

The top of Mount Wakid is covered by these evergreen shrubs only 1 to 6 Meters high

Special Thanks to Dr. Arthur Chung, Dr. Reuben Nilus and John Sugau for the identification of the vegetation. According to them, these trees are Kerangas forest with berungis trees (Baeckea frutescens) and bracken fern (Pteridium esculentum), and part of the forest was burnt in 1983.

The color of Mt. Wakid is a big contrast with adjacent mountains

I googled and learned that the leaves and flowers of berungis tree can be harvested for medicinal uses and to make a refreshing herbal tea. All aerial parts of the plant are credited with antibacterial, anti-febrile and haemostatic properties. However, the local community doesn’t seem to use this plant.

You can see two distinct forest of Mt Wakid, the darker lowland rainforest and lighter heath forest (Kerangas) near the top

We walked along the narrow ridge. After 10 minutes, we arrived the summit of Mt Wakid marked by a trig station. There are six peaks on Mount Wakid, and the highest peak is called Peak No.3. We celebrated the moment by taking a lot of photographs.

Everyone made it to the highest peak of Mt. Wakid (Gunung Wakid)

Climbers are often asked why they climb. We would reply, “If you have to ask, you’ll never understand,” so you have to climb a mountain to find the answer. When asked “What is the use of climbing Mount Everest?”, George Mallory, an English mountaineer, said, “It is no use… What shall not bring back a single bit of gold or silver, not a gem… What we get from this adventure is just sheer joy… We do not live to eat and make money.”

View of Sunsuron Village from the mountain

Therefore, if money can’t buy you any happiness, go climb a mountain! I also can’t explain why it’s cheerful, probably mountain is nearer to heaven. From the ridge, I can see that we are surrounded by rolling hills, lush forest, gorge and valley, what a spectacular view.

You could see the dense undergrowth of Pteridium esculentum (Esculentum means edible), commonly known as Austral bracken or simply bracken.

We continued moving to the next peak along the spine of Mount Wakid. By the way, Mount Wakid has a secret that our guide doesn’t want me to share it online. You can ask them if you climb.

Group photo on Peak No.1

It’s an easy hike. Within 20 minutes, we reached Peak No.1, which has a big cross erected. Every year before Good Friday, the local Catholic paid homage to Jesus Christ by carrying a big cross to this peak, but now this annual activity is moved to Kolindasan Hill.

Another group photo on Peak No.1 but facing different side.

If treated well, mountains give us clean water and fresh air, or they will hit back with flood and landslide. I’m glad that the forest on hills and mountains of Tambunan are in good condition, making Tambunan one of the greenest districts in Sabah. It’s sad that the Signal Hill of KK, which was used to be a lively hill with dense jungle, now has became a “Condo Hill”.

The following video is a good overview of our climb.

Descending

Next we were on our way descending to Sunsuron Village via the Standard Trail, which is about 4.75 KM in distance. Climbing up a mountain isn’t easy, but climbing down is more difficult. It’s advisable to bring packed lunch to the peak, so you can restore your energy level after eating.

Descending to Sunsuron Village

Though the Standard Trail is less challenging than Jingkung Trail, there are a few steep sections that need rope support, which our mountain guide has provided. Even if it was drought season and the soil was fairly dry, I still found it hard not to slip.

Small Kolopis Waterfall

The descending wasn’t easy, but it was faster and less tiring. We arrived Kolopis Waterfalls near the foothill after an hour. It’s a cascading waterfall with the small and deep waterfall in upstream and the big one 10 Meters downstream.

Big Kolopis Waterfall

The big Kolopis Waterfall is a great spot for abseiling. A few of us couldn’t resist the temptation of clean mountain stream and decided to take a dip in the cold water.

Swimming under Kolopis Waterfall

Mountains are water towers of the earth because they provide 60 to 80% of the world’s fresh water. It’s quite amazing that Mount Wakid has flowing water after many dry months. Forest can do the magic of holding and releasing the water slowly.

Camping site at the foothill

Not far away from the waterfall is a camping site next to a stream. For those who want to enjoy the nature more, they can join the 2-day camping tour which includes mountain climbing, camping, abseiling at waterfall (by certified climbers) and night walk. A toilet is constructed for this campsite recently.

Tambunan is also known as the Valley of Bamboo

During the climb, you would see bamboo everywhere, that’s why Tambunan is called the Valley of Bamboo. In Malaysia, there are 80 species of bamboo, and some can grow more than 20 Meters high.

Picnic next to Sunsuron River

Finally we arrived the farmland of Sunsuron Village at the end of the climb.

Crystal clear water of Sunsuron River

There were a few local farmers having their lunch at the riverside. They are so friendly that they even invite us to join them. Their food is really fresh and yummy.

River side picnic with local food

In this trip we see not only the beauty of mountain, but also the beauty of clean rivers. Tell me, how often you see river as clean as the one shown in photos here?

Enjoying drink with the villagers at the river side

A toast to Tambunan, a land free of pollution.

How to get there

To climb Mt. Wakid, you can appoint a mountain guide to bring you to the summit. The guide fee is RM70 (≈USD$17) per head. A certificate costs RM10 (≈USD$2.50). You can get a guide through the following contact, or hire one via Sunsuron Homestay.

E-mail: jingcom2004@yahoo.com
Tel: +60 13-8991857 (Mel)
Facebook: GunungWakid
Instagram: @gunungwakid
See More Photos of Mt. Wakid

For safety, you should get a guide to follow you. The trail is not well-marked, so you can lose your way easily like the grandma. There was a Korean who lost in the mountain. Luckily he was found and saved. If we only found his iPhone, we would have to rename this mountain to Mount iPhone.

Things to Bring

It’s warm during daytime, so you don’t really need extra warm clothing. The most important thing is to wear a pair of good hiking shoes. Below is a list of recommended items to bring:

  • Bottle of Water (min. 1 Litre)
  • Raincoat / Poncho
  • Snack / Energy Bar
  • Packed Lunch
  • Climbing Rope
  • Walking Pole
  • Optional: Swimwear

Photos taken in Tambunan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo