Category Archives: Mountains

Best things to do in Kinabalu Park

Kinabalu Park (Local Name: Taman Kinabalu) or Kinabalu National Park is the No.1 choice if you ask tour agents what’s the most recommended attraction in Sabah. Standing at 4,095.2 Metres (13,435 Feet) in Kinabalu Park, Mount Kinabalu is the highest mountain of Malaysia and in travel list of Malaysia climbers. Besides being a must-visit destination of Sabah, the pleasing temperature from 15°C to 24°C (60°F – 78°F) already draws a lot of tourists to this highland park in Kundasang / Ranau district.

Location of Kinabalu Park and its Headquarter

To get the best experience from this UNESCO World Heritage Site (and UNESCO Global Geopark), here is a complete travel guide to show you the top things to do in Kinabalu National Park.

Mount Kinabalu is part of Kinabalu National Park, the first UNESCO World Heritage Site of Malaysia

About Kinabalu Park

Kinabalu National Park covers an area of 754 square kilometres and became Malaysia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site in December 2000 for its outstanding universal values in terms of biodiversity. Kinabalu National Park is out of the world because of its many unique features not found in other parts of Malaysia.

Subalphine scrubs on Mount Kinabalu. Only in Sabah!

10 Cool Things about Kinabalu Park

  1. Mount Kinabalu is one of the most beautiful nature attractions of Malaysia and an icon of Sabah.
  2. Kinabalu Park is hotspot of Borneo megadiversity that hosts more than 4,500 species of flora and fauna. Some are not documented.
  3. The largest pitcher plant in the world is Nepenthes rajah, which can trap a rat and only lives in Kinabalu National Park.
  4. Kinabalu Park is bigger than Singapore.
  5. About 1,000 orchid species are found here, and over 12% are endemic species.
  6. Located at 3,272 metres above sea level, Panalaban (Laban Rata) has the highest accommodation and highest post box in Malaysia.
  7. Rafflesia keithii, which can grow up to one metre in diameter, is the largest flower of Sabah.
  8. Mount Kinabalu has distinct vegetation zones in different altitude, for example, lowland dipterocarp forest, montane forest and subalpine zone (only found in Sabah).
  9. Kinabalu Park is a top birdwatching site.
  10. Many interesting Borneo wildlife live in Kinabalu Park, to list a few, Wallace’s Flying Frog, Ninja Slug that shoots love darts.

“Kinabalu is a scenic wonder, a test for mountaineers from the amateur to the skilled rock climber, a holiday from the hot lowlands, and botanically a paradise.” — E.J.H. Corner

Kinabalu Park Headquarter

The starting point of all activities in Kinabalu Park is its Sabah Parks headquarters in southern boundary, situated at 1,563 metres (5,128 feet) above sea level in Kundasang. It is accessible by driving nearly 2 hours for about 89 Kilometres, from Kota Kinabalu on the road in good condition. You can walk to most facilities and accommodation from the headquarter, or drive inside the park.

Administration building (left) and ticket booth (right) at the entrance of Kinabalu Park

Next to the ticket booth at the entrance, the administration building consists of reception counter for guests to check-in to their accommodation in Kinabalu Park, and registration counters for climbers to register and make payment. In early morning, you would see climbers gather around this area to meet their mountain guides and porters for final preparation, before they are transferred by vehicle to Timpohon Gate, the starting point of the climb about 5 KM away.

Entrance and parking area of Kinabalu Park

There are two restaurants, Liwagu Restaurant and Balsam Cafe, which serve western and oriental food, in buffet and ala carte style. The food is great but a bit expensive. More economic choices are available just outside the park.

Top Activities at Kinabalu Park

Besides Mt. Kinabalu, the recreational and accommodation zones inside the park offer a wide range of nature-based activities to nature lovers, whether they want something leisure or adventurous.

1. Climbing Mount Kinabalu (Gunung Kinabalu)

Conquering Mount Kinabalu is the highlight. More than 45,000 tourists climb this granite mountain every year, and most of them love the scenery and challenge. The view along the summit trail is breathtaking. Imagine the feeling you stand above the cloud like the king of the world. It’s really a once in a lifetime experience.

Climbing Mount Kinabalu is the most popular activity of Kinabalu Park

Normally the climb takes two days and one night. In day one, you ascend 6 KM to Panalaban (previously known as Laban Rata), where you spend a night, then continue the last 2.7-Kilometre climb to the summit at 2am next morning. The accommodation on the mountain is always full, so you must book 6 months in advance. For Sabahans, they can register with Sabah Parks. For other climbers, they can book the climb with Sutera Sanctuary Lodges.

On the summit (Low’s Peak) of Mount Kinabalu. Behind us is the Low’s Gully.

FYI, you can send a postcard from the highest postbox of Malaysia at Panalaban. » Read more about How to Climb Mount Kinabalu.

Via Ferrata

For those daredevils who are not afraid of height and want more spectacular view, the must-try is Mountain TORQ, the world’s highest and Asia’s first Via Ferrata. Put on the gears and take the ‘iron road’ at 3,200m to 3,800m above sea level to move to the peak. Or you may sign up for an alpine rock climbing course too.

Via Ferrata, the Iron Road on Mount Kinabalu

2. Hiking / Jungle Trekking

Kinabalu Park is more than just Mount Kinabalu. What makes Kinabalu Park truly shines are the eco-treasure in its forest. There are 326 bird and around 100 mammal species live in Kinabalu Park. In the vicinity of Kinabalu Park Headquarter is dense lower montane forest, a mossy cloud jungle which looks like an alien world.

Jungle trekking in mountain forest of Kinabalu National Park

Walk into this playground of naturalist and plant enthusiasts and you would spot animals such as mountain squirrel, gliding lizard, lantern bug, pitcher plant, rhinoceros beetle and trilobite; and endemic plant such as pink Kinabalu Balsam, gigantic tree fern, snowy white Borneo Rhododendron and jewel orchid.

Nature Trails of Kinabalu Park

You are free to explore the nine nature trails in Kinabalu Park HQ, which take 15 minutes to three hours one way. For a casual walk, Personally I recommend Silau-Silau trail that starts from Multi-Purpose Hall. Liwagu Trail (5.5 KM one way) is the longest but the most rewarding. If you want the shortest trail, Bundu Tuhan View Trail is only 224 metres one way.

Layout and trail map of Kinabalu Park Complex

A few trails such as Bukit Ular has leeches, in case you mind. Hire a knowledgeable tour guide to go with you, they are good at spotting birds and critters. » Read more about Jungle Trekking in Kinabalu Park

Bird Watching

Kinabalu National Park is internationally recognized as an Important Bird Area (IBA), especially for mountainous (montane) birds, a total of 58 species with 17 are endemic, and 262 of other residents bird species. Take a binocular and walk in Silau-Silau and Bukit Tupai trails in the morning, you would spot special birds such as Bornean Treepie and Chestnut-crested Yuhina. Sometimes you would find a group of Crimson-headed Partridge (wild chicken) forages next to you.

Wildlife of Kinabalu Park

High on the bucket list of birdwatchers is sighting of endemic birds like Sunda Whistling Thrush, iridescent green Whitehead’s Broadbill, Whitehead’s Trogon, Mountain Serpent-eagle and Bornean Green Magpie. The best birdwatching location of Kinabalu Park is along the road towards Sabah Electricity Board’s Power Station at 1,800 M (6,000 feet).

3. Mount Kinabalu Botanical Garden

This garden behind Liwagu Restaurant is really underrated. Kinabalu Park has more than 4,500 species of flora and fauna and many are endemic to this park only. A visit to Kinabalu National Park is incomplete if you can’t even name 3 special plant there.

Nepenthes rajah is the largest pitcher plant in the world and only found in Kinabalu Park

Mount Kinabalu Botanical Garden has very interesting and representative collection of plant, flowers and herbs from Kinabalu Park. The garden offers daily guided tours at 9am, 12pm and 3pm (for a small fee). The guide (can speak English and Malay) will share some cool stories on selected plant.

Rothschild slipper orchid (left) is also known as Gold of Kinabalu, and “Santa Claus” orchid (right)

You definitely don’t want to miss the rare plant such as Rothschild Slipper Orchid and Nepenthes rajah, which can fetch very high price in black market. » Read more about Mount Kinabalu Botanical Garden

4. Staycation in Nature Resorts

The accommodation inside Kinabalu Park Headquarter is managed by a private company called Sutera Sanctuary Lodges. You can choose different type of rooms, from chalet, villa, lodge to hostel, depends on your budget. The price ranges from RM125 for a hostel room to RM14,400 for the most lavished Rajah Lodge.

Variety of accommodation in Kinabalu Park. Photo Credit: Sutera Sanctuary Lodges

You can book the room in their booking website. Just key in the date and it will show you the availability and rate of the accommodation. Below is a quick look of the price range (Room / Lodge for 2 to 6 guests). Prices may vary depend on season.

  • Rock Twin Share Hostel: RM125 – RM390
  • Hill Lodge: RM150 – RM550
  • Liwagu Suite: RM300 – RM850
  • Nepenthes Lodge: RM350 – RM1,320
  • The Peak Lodge: RM400 – RM1,800
  • Nepenthes Villa: RM550 – RM2,800
  • Summit Lodge: RM550 – RM2,800
  • Garden Lodge: RM1,400 – RM2,800
  • Kinabalu Lodge: RM5,256 – RM7,200
  • Rajah Lodge: RM10,512 – RM14,400

Grace Hostel (with 20 Dormitory Bunk Beds) is not listed in their booking site. You may call them for details:
Sutera Sanctuary Lodges
Address: G.15, Ground Floor, Wisma Sabah, 88000 Kota Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysia.
Phone: +60 88-487466, +60 17-8332766
E-mail: info@suterasanctuarylodges.com
Website: suterasanctuarylodges.com.my

A garden theme lodge in Mesilau

If you are very cost conscious, there are dozens of affordable accommodation very near to Kinabalu Park. With rich variety of choices like hotels, hostels, resorts, hill lodges around Kundasang, Ranau and Mesilau, you can pick the one that gives more bang for your bucks. Many even have better Mount Kinabalu view. My personal favourite is Kinabalu Pine Resort.

Park Fees & Opening Hours

Kinabalu Park opens from 7am to 7pm daily. You need to purchase ticket at the entrance at the following rates:

Malaysian
18 years old and aboveRM10.00
Below 18RM5.00
Below 12 years old / Above 60 / HandicappedFree
Non-Malaysian
18 years old and aboveRM50.00
Below 18RM25.00
Conservation Fee (ticket) with effect from 1 Jan 2023

Tip: You can reuse the ticket in Poring Hot Springs on the same day.

Kinabalu National Park (Taman Nasional Kinabalu)

What to Bring

For non-climbers, bring jacket, poncho / umbrella, drinking water, cash and MyKad (or Passport), and wear comfortable walking shoes. Temperature in Kinabalu Park can drop below 16°C sometimes.

How to get there

Drive there yourself is the best option. It’ll be so easy with navigation apps like Waze (Where to: Kinabalu Park or see Location Map). You can park your car inside or outside the park. You will pass by Tamparuli town on the way. Do stop by for a breakfast and try the famous Tamparuli Mee (noodle).

Mini-bus station near Padang Merdeka Field in Kota Kinabalu City Centre

By Bus: take a mini-bus that goes to Ranau from bus station near Padang Merdeka Field in Kota Kinabalu City Centre. The fee costs about RM20 one way. The mini-bus will move once it’s full with passengers. Be there as early as 7am because first departure fills up faster. Ask the bus driver to drop you in front of Kinabalu Park. 5 or 6-seat Limo is also available on sharing basis for around RM35 one way.

Taxi / Grab: If you plan to visit other places in Kundasang besides Kinabalu Park, you better charter a taxi or Grab to save time.

Nearby Attractions

A visit to Kinabalu Park and Poring Hot Springs is enough to keep you busy for a day trip, which is what most tourists do. However, to have a more enjoyable and relax trip, I advise you to spend a night or two around Kinabalu Park to cover more places of interest mentioned below.

1. Poring Hot Spring, Canopy Walk

About 40 KM away from Kinabalu Park Headquarter, Poring is also part of Kinabalu Park. You can reuse the Kinabalu Park ticket to visit Poring on the same day. Poring is above 400 Metres above sea level, so it’s warmer than Kinabalu Park. The popular activities there are soaking in their sulphurous hot springs and a thrilling walk on the 40-metre-high canopy walkway.

Poring Hot Springs
Canopy Walk and Langanan Waterfall in Poring

2. Rafflesia Flower

On your way to Poring Hot Springs, keep an eye on roadside. In lucky day, you would see banner that announces the blooming of rafflesia. Rafflesia is a parasitic huge flower without root, leaf and stem. The blooming is rare and lasts only 6 days. The flower looks best in second and third day of blooming and starts to turn dark after that.

Roadside notice of blooming rafflesia flower
Blooming rafflesia (species: Rafflesia keithii), the largest flower of Sabah

Stop for the rafflesia site where tourist bus parks because travel agents always pick the site with the most beautiful bloom. The entry fee is about RM20 (negotiable) and camera fee will add another RM10.

3. DESA Cattle Farm in Mesilau

This is a family-friendly destination. Your kids will love it. Go to Mesilau to see milk cows feeding on green pasture under Mount Kinabalu. You would think that you are in New Zealand.

DESA Cattle Farm in Mesilau
Feeding little lamb and trying the ice cream in DESA Cattle Farm

DESA is the producer of Sabah cow (and goat) milk. You must try their gelato or yogurt ice cream, and check out the milking station. After that, go to the barn to milk or hand feeding the cute baby cows and little lambs. » Read more about DESA Cattle Farm

4. Kundasang War Memorial

Even if you are not a history buff, you will appreciate the beautiful gardens of Kundasang War Memorial. During World War II, 1,787 Australian and 641 British prisoners of war died when they were forced by Japanese to walk 265 KM from Sandakan to Ranau, an infamous event called Death March.

Beautiful garden of Kundasang War Memorial

To commemorate the soldiers, Kundasang War Memorial is built with four garden themes, namely, Australian Garden, English Rose Garden, Borneo Garden and the Contemplation Garden. Visitors can stroll in this memorial to learn and feel the historic past of the Death March, and leave with a deeper appreciation of peace and freedom.

5. Nabalu Town

It’s hard not to notice this busy town packed with tourists, when you are 12 KM before Kinabalu Park. Most people like to stop briefly in this town for a short (toilet) break after a long drive.

Mount Kinabalu viewing platform of Nabalu Town
Shopping in local market of Nabalu Town

At the end is an observatory platform for visitors to selfie with Mount Kinabalu. There is a long house piled with tons of souvenirs for you to shop and bargain. The little fruit and vegetables market there also draws many people to sample some local fruits such as tarap and langsat. » Read more about Nabalu

6. Paragliding in Lohan

Need some adrenaline rush to feel great being alive? Paragliding at Lohan is for you then. At the junction to Poring Hot Springs, you can turn to Lohan Hill for an exciting ride. Pay around RM200+ for a 5 to 7 minute tandem ride to fly like a bird and enjoy the wonderful aerial view of hilly countryside. You need to book the flight in advance. » Read more about Paragliding in Lohan

Paragliding in Lohan near Ranau town

7. Climbing Maragang Hill

Located in Mesilau (near Kundasang), Maragang Hill is 2,232 Meters high and a new climbing destination that is gaining  popularity really fast. The climb is an easy 1.6-Kilometer hike to the peak and takes only half-day. On the peak of Maragang Hill, you can have one of the closest and most magnificent view of Mount Kinabalu.  » Read more about Climbing Maragang Hill

Hiking only 1.6 Kilometers to get this view? It’s a steal!

8. Kundasang fruit and vegetables market

This one is the favourite part of mothers. On the way back to Kota Kinabalu, stop by the Kundasang market to buy some fresh fruits and vegetables. Local snacks are popular buy too. You know it’s the right place to shop when you see so many mom around.

9. Climbing Sosodikon Hill

Sosodikon Hill in Kundasang is only 70 Metres tall. Climbing to its peak takes less than 15 minutes and you can have a breathtaking panoramic view of Kundasang Valley from the top. » Read more about Climbing Sosodikon Hill

Climbing to the peak of Sosodikon Hill takes less than 15 minutes and everyone can do it.

Photos taken in Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Climbing Mount Nopungguk, the mini Mt. Kinabalu

Mount Kinabalu is not the only mountain in Kinabalu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This highest mountain of Malaysia has many “sibling” mountains, for example, Mount Tambuyukon (2,642 Metres, 3rd highest mountain in Malaysia), Mount Nombuyukong (1,604 Metres).

Mount Nopungguk is only 1/3 the height of Mount Kinabalu. Nopungguk means “Chopped” in local word.
Normally climbers take about 3 hours to reach the peak of Mount Nopungguk

Mount Nopungguk (1,430 Metres or 4,692 Feet) is only about 1/3 the height of Mt. Kinabalu (4,096 Metres). It’s part of Kinabalu Park so climbers need to apply a permit and hire a park guide to enter. The climb is not overly challenging and a taste of botanical tour in this UNESCO site already makes your trip worthwhile. More than 1,000 climbers have climbed Mount Nopungguk. I’m one of them.

The climb usually starts very early in the morning.

The climbing trip is easy to arrange. I stayed one night in Nopungguk Homestay in Kampung Gansurai (Village) of Kota Belud, the starting point of the climb. Next morning around 6am, we gathered for a short briefing by the guide. The mountain guides with us were Disiol Egong, Nickalso Sabin, and David Summoring. Without them, we could lose our way easily in the forest.

Mount Nopungguk is also part of Kinabalu Park, UNESCO World Heritage Site
Close-up view of Mount Kinabalu on Mount Nopungguk

A height of 1,430 Metres may sound too much to beginners. But our starting point is 400 Metres above sea level, so we actually needed to climb up about 1,030M more Metres. Hiking one KM of hilly path to move up is tiring, but not too bad if we go slow. All of us made it to the top.

Taking a rest. The village dog only followed us until this point.

The trail to the summit of Mount Nopungguk is about 6 Kilometres (3.7 Miles) in distance and would take 2 to 3 hours, depends on your fitness. At first we walked in the wood of countryside. The trees got denser and we were moving quietly in the dark. The first 3 KM is quite ok. We passed by Mirolian Stone and Rafflesia Park but didn’t stop to look around because it was still dark. Then we reached the shelter and campsite named Posiduan.

Loop Trail to the summit of Mount Nopungguk
Beautiful green fruits but inedible due to its bad taste.
Hut and campsite on Mount Nopungguk

After short break, we moved on to the steep trails ahead. The steepest section is Purak Pakou trail, which is literally translated as “white buttock trail”. Why? Because in old days, women wore sarong skirt but no underwear inside. When they walked up to the steep slope, the people behind them could see their butt, like what happens to mini-skirt girl who uses escalator lol.

Purak Pakou Trail is the steepest section of the climb
Huge boulder that looks like blue whale

By 8:40am, most of us have reached the peak of Mount Nopungguk and enjoyed the magnificent view of Mt. Kinabalu up-close. It’s a long climb but quite manageable. I would rate the climb as medium in difficulty. The trail could be very slippery after rain. The lurking blood sucking leeches are also a nuisance (can block them with anti-leech socks). The good thing was we were walking in a forested mountain so the tree shade protected us from heat.

Mount Nopungguk is 1,430 Metres (4,692 Feet) in height

After reaching the peak and take some photographs, we will descend via another trail, where we can visit the waterfall and cave on the way back. However, I was descending in the same path where I climbed up, because we have sent one photographer to take photos in another trail.

Mirolian Stone and Rafflesia Park

As more light coming, we explored the attractions such as Mirolian Stone, which is a big three tiers granite boulders. There is a small cave under the rock with a flat stone that looks like a coffin, and hence its name Coffin Cave (Gua Keranda).

Mirolian Stone (Batu Besar Bertingkat)
The small cave under Mirolian Stone
The coffin rock inside Gua Keranda cave
Hundred-year-old tree

The adjacent Rafflesia Park is famous for its Rafflesia keithii, the biggest flower of Sabah and Rhizanthes lowii, another type of corpse flower under same family. However, their blooming flower lasts less than a week so sighting is rare. There are some wild orchid and hundred-year-old tall rainforest trees around.

Titanic Stone that never sinks.

You can play Titanic with your other half with Titanic Stone, which looks like a sinking ship.

Then I saw the freaking giant Lingzhi, the biggest mushroom that I’ve ever see. In Chinese Kungfu drama, I always hear the legend that thousand-year-old Lingzhi is a super herb that can cure any serious illness and even revive the death. According to a lingzhi expert I know, he says lingzhi is not the older the better. Usually 10 years old lingzhi has the best medical properties.

Giant Lingzhi

When morning light hit these lingzhi, I noticed that they were smoking. It’s spore dispersal that releases millions of seeds (spores) to the wild. Awesome!

Pretending to eat the Lingzhi LOL

Besides these amazing nature wonders, visitors can see Goniothalamus Ridleyi tree (pokok tuhub), Panaradan Waterfall, Gua Kinoulawon (cave), and big snake vine in another trail that I didn’t visit. May be next time then.

Pogianadan granite boulder

Itinerary

The following is the standard time table for the climb. If you want to see sunrise on the peak, you would have to move as early as 2am.

4:20am Gather for briefing at Nopungguk Homestay (Starting Point)
5:00am Start hiking
6:00am Reach Mirolian Stone & Rafflesia Park / Mirolian Hut
Titanic Stone, Gua Kelawar, Gua Keranda, Batu Bertingkat (Mirolian Stone), Lingzhi, rafflesia
6:30am Hike to the summit of Mount Nopungguk
8:30am Reach the peak of Mount Nopungguk
10:00am Head back to starting point (via different trail)
1:00pm Reach Panaradan Waterfall *lunch & swimming
2:20pm Reach Gua Kinoulawon (Cave)
3:10pm Reach Nopungguk Homestay
3:30pm High tea at homestay
4:00pm Certificate presentation
4:20pm Go home

Note: Only a maximum of 20 hikers per day can climb Mt. Nopungguk, to minimize the impact to the environment

Titanic Stone

Where to Stay

To start climbing very early in the morning, you are advised to overnight in Kota Belud. Nopungguk Homestay should be your first choice because it’s the starting point and they can get a permit and guide for your climb. This homestay has 18 rooms (dormitory beds and standard rooms) and about 84 KM (52 Miles) away from Kota Kinabalu City.

This green lizard thought I didn’t see it.

Below is more info of Nopungguk Homestay:
GPS Coordinates: 6.202036, 116.488756 (see Location Map)
Website: Facebook, mynopungguk.blogspot.com
Phone: +60 16-8379681 (Mr. Sarun Lambut)
E-mail: sarunlambut@yahoo.com / mynopunggok@gmail.com

Things to Bring

Water + bottle, backpack, anti-leech socks, raincoat / poncho, hiking stick, phone, energy bars, warm clothing (light jacket), swim wear, toiletries (tooth brush, tooth paste, toilet paper, face wash, towel, etc.)

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Climbing Bukit Bongol (Bongol Hill) of Kota Belud

Bukit Bongol (Bongol Hill) is such a photogenic but odd hill. It’s bald and covered by green grasses, like a mountain wearing green fleece. Its name Bongol is originated from the Malay word “Bonggol”, which means Hump, as this hill is characterized by multi-peak landscape. I have to say Bukit Bongol is one of the most beautiful and unique hills of Sabah.

It’s me (in red shirt) flying drone on the highest peak of Bukit Bongol

With a height of 527 Meters (1,730 feet), this midsize hill only needs two hours to conquer and no guide is required. When I was on its top, I wanted to sing The Sound of Music because it reminded me of that musical movie. Sorry, can’t help it. LOL

The Sound of Music Part 2 should be filmed here.

The Climb (via Mandap Trail)

There are 3 starting points to climb Bukit Bongol (More on this later). Last week I started my climb at 6:16am via Mandap-Dohubang Trail (Mandap Trail in short) in Kampung Mandap Doluoh of Kota Belud because it’s the shortest route (2.5 KM or 1.55 Mile one way) which takes about 90 minutes to go up. There are only 4 peaks (see picture below) to cover.

Route to the highest peak of Bukit Bongol via Mandap trail
Toilet at starting point
Starting point to climb Bukit Bongol (Bongol Hill)

The starting point is 88 Meter (290 feet) above sea level. Since there is only ONE toilet around, better do your business before the climb.

Trail in dense wood

The trail starts with dense forest and steep slopes in foothill. In first hour, the slopes are 40 to 60 degree angle of inclination, luckily there are rope support in most challenging sections. I followed the beaten track (or well-trodden path) created by hikers.

Rope support to climb the steep section

Though it is morning and I walk under tree shade, I still sweat profusely. I cross a few dry streams and try to catch my breath if I come to flat surface. It is a lively forest echoed with call of various birds and noisy cicada.

Fern path in high ground

On the way up you will pass-by the signage of Guung, D’Lugas, Poturidong and Kodompulan Trail after 5, 28, 45 and 60 minutes respectively. The most difficult climb is over after you come to an opening and enter the fern path around Kodompulan signage. Very soon you will reach a ridge and second peak (Minonggui Hill) is only 15 minutes away. The breeze in high ground cools off my body.

The signages of Guung, D’Lugas, Poturidong and Kodompulan Trail.
The “Boobs” hills are the peaks of Bukit Bongol

On the ridge is mostly gradual slope of 20 to 40 degree gradient. The grass almost reaches my waist. There are some trees grow sparsely on the hill. Their crowns appear to be denser at one side, as if they are all pointing at the same direction. Not sure if this is caused by wind or sunlight.

One side of every tree has denser leaves and all seem to point to one direction.
After this checkpoint you will walk on the ridge of Bukit Bongol
Reaching Minonggui Hill, but this is not the highest peak
Congratulating signage on Minonggui Hill

On the way I saw Brown Barbet (an endemic Borneo bird), 1-inch giant forest ants (species: Camponotus gigas), grumpy White-breasted Woodswallow, and a few black squirrels. The most common flower is the pink Melastoma flower (Local Name: Senduduk), its leaves and shoots can cure diarrhea and root can relieve toothache.

Pink Melastoma (Senduduk) flower and poo from unknown animal
Best view of Mount Kinabalu on Bukit Bongol (Minonggui Hill)

About 7am, I arrived second peak (Minonggui Hill) at 494M (1,620 Feet). This peak has the BEST view so I spend the most time taking photos there. FYI, the view of green Bukit Bongol with Mount Kinabalu behind is stunning, but you need to reach here latest by 9am, before Mount Kinabalu hidden in cloud.

Climber on the way to the highest peak
Climber is only 150 Meters away from the highest peak

After taking hundreds of photos, I continue to 4th peak, the highest peak of Bukit Bongol (Height: 527M or 1,730 feet), where you can see the whole Bukit Bongol and Mount Kinabalu. Too bad no summit signage to congratulate my conquer.

View of Mount Kinabalu from the highest point of Bukit Bongol

Kota Belud is the cowboy town of Sabah. I’ve never seen so many grasses in my life, enough for all the horses there to eat until they puke. Anyway, Bukit Bongol turned a bit yellowish due to drought, and a few peaks was burnt by forest fire.

Another less common name of Bukit Bongol is Bukit Nuluhan Minonggui

Overall, it’s a delightful trip. I turn back and return to starting point by 11:24am.

Comparison of 3 Starting Points

There are three places where you can start the climb. Which one is the best? In general, if you prefer the shortest route and ok with challenging trail, use Mandap-Dohubang Trail. But if you are keen to go slow with the easiest route, go for Pirasan Trail. Kinasaraban Trail is something in between these two and a popular choice too.

Three starting points to Bukit Bongol: (1) Mandap, (2) Pirasan and (3) Kinasaraban Trails

1. Mandap-Dohubang Trail (Mandap Trail)

GPS Coordinates: 6.315329, 116.398109 (see Location Map)
Mandap Trail is 2.5 KM (1.55 Mile) one way and takes about 90 minutes to reach the summit. I carried over 8Kg of photography and climb like a pregnant woman. For those who are fit and pack light, you might need only an hour. The advantage is you climb in shade half of the time.

You can check out my 6-minute walk-through video below for a virtual tour:

2. Pirasan Trail

GPS Coordinates: 6.312051, 116.431844 (see Location Map)
Pirasan Trail is the longest but easiest route. It is nearly 4 KM (2.5 Mile) one way, which takes 2.5 hours. You would walk under hot sun in return trip though. The route covers about 10 peaks. This way passes through more vegetation, so you see more variety of flowers and plant.

Starting point of Pirasan Trail to Bukit Bongol
Pirasan Trail is freaking far to walk to the summit of Bukit Bongol
Pirasan Trail is the least challenging but the longest trail
Group photo in a misty day on Bukit Bongol

Video walk-through below:

There used to be a D’Hobbit Cafe at this starting point, but now it’s no longer in business (as of Feb 2020). The gate to this cafe is closed too (so is its toilet), so you have to park your car outside.

3. Kinasaraban Trail

GPS Coordinates: 6.332075, 116.403991 (see Location Map)
(Waze’s Where to Keyword: Bangunan Pendaftaran Hikers Bukit Bonggol)
Kinasaraban Trail is about 3KM (1.86 Mile) one way, which takes about 2 hours. Though longer than Mandap Trail, it is not as steep. In short, it’s more relax than Mandap and shorter than Pirasan.

Video walk-through below (in Malay language):

Fee

All starting points ask for an entrance fee of about MYR2-3 per adult or MYR1-2 per child. Please support. But sometimes no villager is there to collect.

Safety and Things to Bring

You don’t need any guide to climb Bukit Bongol but please avoid climbing alone. Going with group of friends is more fun too. The following are some advice:

Aerial view of whole Bukit Bongol

Bee and Wasp

Many bees are present along the trail, but they only mind their own business. They only sting to defend. However, these bees love salt. Your sweat will attract them to land on your skin to sip. Do NOT squish them! The solution is to wear long sleeve and pant to cover your skin. Another problem is the hard-to-spot wasp nest in the shrub. If you are allergy to bee venom, do bring medicine that prevents anaphylactic shock.

Foothill of Bukit Bongol is dense forest

Heat

There are not many tree for shade on the hill, so you would be vulnerable to heatstroke in sunny day. Wear sunblock lotion and bring at least 1.2 Litre of drinking water. Sunhat or umbrella is a great protection too. Try to climb in early morning when it is cooling.

Panoramic view of Kota Belud plain

Trail Condition

Bukit Bongol is not a tourist-friendly destination. The trail can be very slippery after rain. Wear suitable hiking shoes such as Adidas Kampung. If you have tender skin, you need gloves for using ropes (in Mandap). Moreover, don’t step on the dry leaves when you descend, you would slip on them like banana peel.

Other useful things to bring: raincoat, hiking pole, sunglasses, phone, tissue paper, face towel.

How to get there

All starting points are accessible with sedan by paved road (and partially gravel road). You need to drive about 1.5 hours from Kota Kinabalu City to the starting points above near Kota Belud. Mobile apps such as Waze and Google Map can help you to find these places easily. Happy Climbing and Stay Safe!

Photos taken in Kota Belud, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Tambunan Viewing Point (Sinurambi Tower) in Greenest Valley of Sabah

Tambunan of Sabah interior is the greenest part of Sabah. Over 90% of the scenery there are green because of rolling hills covered in lush trees, and wide area of paddy fields and plantation. If you mention Tambunan to a local, keywords such as #green, #cooling and #highland would pop into our heads. Though Tambunan is not a popular destination, most locals wish it remains as a lovely and peaceful place that is isolated from tourists.

Entrance to Tambunan Viewing Point (Menara Sinurambi)
Tambunan Viewing Point looks like a Wakid, a traditional bamboo basket of Sabah

In 2017, Tambunan Viewing Point (also known as Sinurambi Tower and Pongimpaan Nuluhon Dandab) is built on Trig Hill that has panoramic view of Tambunan valley, for visitors who want an eyeful of green Tambunan, Switzerland of the East. From Tambunan town, this 45-feet-high (approximately 14 Metres) tower looks like a huge basket left on hill by a giant, quite a prominent landmark.

Sinurambi Tower is painted green, yellow, and gold colors, the colors of bamboo plant
You also see the whole Tambunan Valley from here

Indeed, the design of Sinurambi Tower copies the shape of Wakid, a traditional bamboo basket used by villagers like a backpack, to carry fruits, vegetables, forest produce and paddy stalks. Do you know that another name of Tambunan is the Bamboo Valley? That’s why this tower is painted in green, yellow, and brown, the colors of bamboo.

Tambunan Viewing Point (Menara Sinurambi)

“Green, which is Nature’s colour, is restful, soothing, cheerful, and health-giving.” – Paul Brunton

Sinurambi Tower is about 14 Metres high (45 feet)

Situated on Trig hill at Kampung Dalungan Village, the tower is 877 metres (2,877 feet) above sea level. Due to the clean air, you can see really far from the tower and enjoy the view of 50 shades of green, clear blue sky, and fresh air breeze from the Crocker Range.

Tambunan Viewing Point is also known as Menara Sinurambi or Pongimpaan Nuluhon Dandab
View of Tambunan town from the tower

You can see Mount Kinabalu at the right during clear day, especially in the morning. If you like scenic view of paddy field, you can visit in January or February while they are green.

Best time to see green paddy field of Tambunan is around February

Sinurambi Tower has three viewing levels, each level can accommodate a maximum of 18 to 25 people, so it can hold over 70 people at the same time, as long as they don’t all stand in one level. The tower is a solid building equipped with curved safety railings and iron ladder to the top.

Can someone tell me what plantation is this?

Sinurambi Tower opens from 8am to 5pm every day. There is a small toilet at the venue. The entrance is free. It can be windy and cooling on the hill, and temperature can drop below 25°C (77°F), so you better have a jacket with you.

How to get there

Tambunan town is about 75 KM (46 Miles) from Kota Kinabalu City, the capital of Sabah, and the tower is about 9 KM from Tambunan shoplot (next to Sompoton roundabout).

Shoplots of Tambunan town

Its GPS location is 5.650731, 116.372258 (see Location Map). You can use Google Map or Waze to navigate there.

Sinurambi Tower is a new attraction for tourists

The drive up to the hill takes about 15 to 20 minutes (or you can hike 45 minutes to reach there). It’s mainly gravel road but quite accessible and you don’t need a 4-Wheel Drive.

Photos taken in Tambunan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Expedition to the Center of Sabah

As Tip of Borneo is one of the most visited attractions in Sabah, “Center of Sabah” could be the next popular destination. In theory, if you thread a string through the center of a cut-out cardboard map of Sabah, the cardboard should hang flat in the balance. However, the work to pinpoint the exact Center of Sabah is far more complicated and takes years to find out. Since 2006, Royal Institution of Surveyors Malaysia (RISM) had been collecting reading from 18,600 points along the Sabah coastline to calculate the Center.


The coordinates of the geographical Centre of Sabah is determined at Latitude 117°7’01.8″ East and Longitude 5°+20’38.4″ North (N 5°20’38.4″ E 117°7’01.8″), which is on the top of RISM Hill (Bukit RISM) in the Pinangah Forest Reserve near Telupid (about 280 Kilometers away from Kota Kinabalu city).


For the launching of the Center of Sabah, RISM organized an expedition team of 54 members, comprised of people from RISM, Sabah Surveying and Mapping Department, Sabah Land and Survey Department, Sabah Forestry Department, Sabah Tourism Board and media, to visit the Center of Sabah. The flag-off ceremony was carried out in Tun Fuad Stephens Park at 8:35am on 30 Sep 2011.


We departed in a convoy of more than 10 4-wheel drive. We stopped by Nabalu town briefly for breakfast.


Our expedition team also had lunch at Telupid town around 2pm.


Then we entered a dusty, rocky and gravel road at a junction after Telupid at 2:45pm. The ride was bumpy and we saw oil palm plantation most of the time. We also saw a few logging trucks on the way.


Above: passing by Tongod. It’s a remote area of Sabah.

Millian Forestry Center


Above: reaching Pinangah Forest Reserve, where poaching is strictly prohibited.


Our group reached Millian Forestry Centre around 4pm. We spent a night here, before departing to the Center of Sabah in next day.


The accommodation of Millian Forestry Center is basic but quite comfortable. Electricity supply is available (though there was a blackout of 30 minutes). For a shared room like photo above (with air-conditioning and attached bathroom), it’s only RM40 (about USD12) per person per night. For VIP room, it’s RM60 (about USD19).


You can ask them to prepare meal for you (RM20-RM25 per head). They have a nice dining room too. I’m not the fussy kind of tourist who would complain about food not serving on hot plate. With such facilities in forest, it’s better than what I expect. You may contact Yayasan Sabah for booking of room.


Because Millian Forestry Center is in the wilderness, it’s nothing to do at night, so I just took a night walk to explore the jungle nearby.


Anyone knows what is the name of the insect above?

Day 2

After a nice breakfast in next morning, we checked out at 6:30am and headed to the base camp of Pinangah Forest Reserve, which is about 35-minute drive away and the starting point of the trail to the Center of Sabah.


On the way, most are excited about the trip but also a bit worried about the leeches, the little blood suckers in rainforest of Borneo.


The base camp is only a big open space. We parked our 4-wheel drives there and ready for the climb.


Above: marking attendance and briefing before the climb.


The Center of Sabah is located on top of RISM Hill (Bukit RISM), with a height of 584.2 Meters above the mean-sea-level and inaccessible by car, so we have to walk 3.6 Kilometers of jungle trail in Pinangah forest to reach the Center. Personally I like it because it is like an adventure.


We crossed 3 rivers along the way. We also pass by a small waterfall and the water is so clean and refreshing.


The “fern path” at the beginning is a nice view. Very soon we entered the dense and humid secondary forest. A recce team had marked the trail with white paper the day before, so we wouldn’t lose our way. The trail is nature and have no support such as boardwalk, rope and ladder. Some little brown leeches are lurking in the damp forest ground, creating panic among the ladies, fortunately not too many leeches around today.


Above: take a break in halfway


As hunting is not allowed here, we can see the traces of wild animals living happily here, like the wallow of wild boar shown in photo above.


After an hour, a guide shows us his GPS device and tells us the Center is only 500 Meters ahead, as if it is only a few minutes away. We are motivated to move faster, only to find that we are still an hour away from the destination!


The trail is mostly ascending and about 15° in inclination, with 50° for the steepest part. I’m experienced in jungle trekking so I would call this a hiking instead of climbing. The only problem is the crawling plant on the floor that we would trip over.


To reach the Center before noon, I was in a hurry and didn’t actively look for interesting flora and fauna. Anyway, I spot tractor millipede, centipede, ginger and some fungus. Someone even saw a small snake being eaten by a centipede. Too bad I miss that.

Reaching the Center of Sabah

Even though the climb is not overly challenging, the hike is still taxing. Finally I arrived the Center at 9:30am.


The climb usually takes 2 to 3 hours, depending on how fit you are. Most of us reached the Center before 10am.


Of course we won’t miss the opportunity to photograph the victorious moment. More climbers come and all of us make it!


With the special permission of the Sabah Forestry Department, for more accurate GPS reading and better view, the hilltop had been cleared so that we get an unobstructed panoramic view of the surrounding hills from the Center of Sabah. We can even see our cars from the hill (see photo above). Can’t believe we make it that far.


The surrounding view of the Center on RISM Hill is mainly forest and mountain range, a lovely sight.


The day is getting hot, so most of us take shelter under a makeshift camp built on a helipad. This helipad was constructed to facilitate helicopter landings. 4 tons of building materials such as cement was brought to the top by helicopter.


When everyone has arrived, we have a simple unveiling ceremony of Center of Sabah Monument.



Above: we are right in the middle of Sabah!!!


Above: there is a logo embedded at each side of the monument, which acknowledges the 4 organizations that make this project a success. The official launching of the Center of Sabah coincides with the 50th anniversary celebration of the Royal Institution of Surveyors Malaysia (RISM) in year 2011.

The Centre of Sabah is marked with a survey control point named M500 – Bukit RISM planted at the peak by JUPEM.


There is a toposcope on the monument that shows the direction and distance to the popular attractions in other parts of Sabah, for example, Kota Kinabalu, Tenom, Ranau, Kudat, Sandakan, Lahad Datu, Beluran, Beaufort, Long Pasia and Semporna.


Above: a group photo to conclude the end of our expedition.

You may watch the 3-minute video below to see the overall Expedition:

How to get there

As there is no travel agent selling tour package to Centre of Sabah, you will need to arrange your transport, meals, entry permit and guide on your own. It’s not difficult, but you have to communicate with a few parties back and forth. Basically, there are three main tasks:

1. Get a Permit

Because Centre of Sabah is located inside a protected forest reserve (Pinangah), you need to apply an entry permit from Sabah Forestry Department (SFD). Just write to the Director of SFD in Sandakan HQ to request for permission. In your letter, please state:

  1. Number of people going (include your driver too), with details such as Name, ID and Nationality
  2. Date of your visit
  3. Purpose of your visit (i.e. visit Centre of Sabah)
  4. Your contact (phone, H/P, fax, e-mail)
  5. You may request for a guide. I’m sure they will send forest ranger(s) to go with you anyway

*SFD may collect permit or guide fee

Look for general phone number of SFD in Sandakan in their website. Ask for the correct fax number or mailing address to fax / send your letter. They are very efficient and usually get your application processed on next day, but I advise you to apply at least one or two week earlier, because you may need to do paperwork and make payment.

2. Booking the Accommodation

You may spend a night in Millian Forestry Centre (of Yayasan Sabah Group), which is near to the starting point of your climb. Below is the price list of their accommodation and services (rates of Year 2014/2015), and the phone numbers for booking.

Pic: please note you need to add 6% GST Tax on top of final amount

Besides booking a room, you also can pre-book your meals with them. You also find more details at the Facebook of the Centre of Sabah.

3. Other Things

For example, if you don’t have a 4-Wheel Drive, you will need to rent one. You better buy insurance for your trip. Here are some recommended things to bring: backpack (with rain cover), raincoat / poncho, mosquito repellent, anti-leech socks, drinking water, energy bar, GPS device, extra clothing / socks, toiletries.

More Photos

You may check out my photo album if you want to see more nice pictures:

Photos taken in Telupid, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Malubang, a beautiful fishing village in Pitas

When I was on a quest to explore the legend of Supirak, I found myself another wonderful seaside vacation at Malubang Village (Local Name: Kampung Malubang), a remote fishing village in Pitas near the tip of northern Sabah. Spend a few days there and you will experience a simple village life without electricity, Wifi, water heater, air-conditioner, asphalt road, etc.

Malubang Village (Kampung Malubang) in Pitas, north of Sabah

Kampung Malubang (Malubang Village)

Malubang Village is located at a beach in Marudu Bay. Most villagers are Sulu people who mainly work as a fisherman. Every morning you can see their fishing boats depart for fishing trip.

Every house owns a boat in Malubang Village

Malubang is facing Kudat town and Tip of Borneo is clearly visible at the horizon. In fact, Kudat is less than an hour away by boat, and Banggi Island takes about 20 minutes.

A fisherman fixing his fishing net

Some houses are still using well for water supply

Though tourists seldom come here, the friendly villagers are ok with outsiders taking a stroll in the village. They are shy but smile a lot. It’s a small fishing village with about 30 houses. Foreigners would find the fence-less stilt houses there interesting.

A house with colorful hanging clothes

During my visit, there was an open house wedding reception (of Mizrul and Mastura) in the village. They were kind to invite me to have lunch with them and watched them dancing and celebrating.

Married couple Mizrul and Mastura

Group photo with the cute village girls who dressed up for wedding function

This village is a close community, in contrast to city. I confess I don’t know most of my neighbours and never visit their home too. May be it’s not only me.. Nowadays kids in same neighbourhood don’t mix around. In old days, I went cycling, fishing and climbing tree with my young neighbours, so Malubang brings back memory.

I enjoyed every moment in Malubang. The only thing I don’t like is that a lot of rubbishes washed up to the shore there.

Supirak Legend

Supirak Island and its surrounding legendary rocks are the main attractions of Malubang (as well as Pitas district). Legend says Supirak Island was a ship turned into a rock due to a curse by mother to her ungrateful son.

Cruising around Marudu Bay

At Malubang, you can charter a small boat easily (for less than MYR80) to visit these island and rocks around the bay, as every villager owns a boat (life vest may not be provided).

Rocks and wells of Supirak legend

Besides Supirak Island, there are many other places of interest in Pitas, to name a few, traditional fishing platform named Bagang, long-nosed monkey in mangrove forest of Bengkoka River, and Esplanade Bengkoka. Due to limited tourism facilities and lack of promotion, Pitas isn’t a popular destination.

Accommodation

Malubang Homestay is the only accommodation in Malubang Village. At the edge of Malubang, the lodge is a longhouse style accommodation with 6 Rooms. The rate is MYR40 to MYR50 (about USD$10 to 12.50) per room per night. It could be fully booked during peak season such as school holiday.

Malubang Homestay is the blue building under the yellow pointer

Rooms of Malubang Homestay

Each room is big enough to fit a group of 3 to 4 people, and it comes with attached bathroom cum toilet, beds, and fan. You can cook in common kitchen area, but you need to bring your own cooking utensils.

What we ate in Malubang Homestay

Please note there is no restaurant in the village. You can request the lodge to prepare the meals for you (Fee per head: Breakfast MYR4.00, Lunch MYR10.00, High Tea MYR2.00 and Dinner MYR10.00).

Enjoy meals with sea view

Everything in this lodge is basic. Power supply is only available from 6pm to 6am (by power generator), which provide lighting and sufficient electricity to charge your phone and camera.

The view in front of Malubang Homestay

But hey, the nice sea view makes up for it, and beach is less than 20 Meters away. Some beach resorts want guests to pay thousands for such view. The little rocky island at the left is Bum-Bum with a half-completed jetty (lack of fund to finish).

Malubang Homestay and its beach

There was no mosquito net in the room. To prevent mosquitoes eating me, I had to position the standing fan to point to my bed to blow those buggers away.

Malubang Homestay in Pitas

For booking, you can contact Mr. Moktar at cellphone: +60 19-8212597 (Whatsapp available). Moktar is Orang Sungai married with 5 kids. He starts the lodge in 2008. The GPS location of Malubang Homestay is 6.956184, 117.060140 (see Location Map). Moktar also can arrange the tour and boat transfer to visit the attractions nearby.

Seafood feast, a treat by Moktar!

Most guests are families from Pitas and Kota Marudu. Moktar will be happy to receive some international tourists. He understands that his lodge could be better, so he plans to improve his accommodation.

Fat crab with juicy meat

When we were ready to check-out, Moktar was missing in action for nearly an hour. Then he suddenly showed up and brought a covered plate, with mysterious smile on his face. He cooked us a big plate of yummy and steaming fresh crabs. Thank you Moktar! You are such a nice guy.

Sunset

Malubang Homestay is facing west, so you can enjoy watching giant yolk sinks into sea every day. I need not to say more.

Beautiful sunset at Malubang

Magic hour of Pitas

After dusk, the brightest thing at night here is the city light of Kudat at the horizon. Power line hasn’t reached this village yet.

Fishing

You might think that this peaceful fishing village becomes even quieter after nightfall. Wrong. Many villagers, both young and old, are busy fishing at the jetties at night. FYI, Malubang Village is famous for fishing giant squid (Sotong Gergasi), which can weigh up to 6 Kilograms and abundant from Oct to Feb every year. Now I understand why every visitors brought a fishing rod.

Local anglers got busy after sunset

Malubang is so lucky to have 3 jetties that extend a few hundreds Meters to the sea, so the people can fish anytime, even during low tide. I didn’t bring a fishing rod, so I was just busybody and check out what they caught. There were mainly stingray and fishes, some are over 2 Kg, quite big.

Many locals come to Malubang for fishing holiday during weekends

FYI, my Maxis mobile phone got one bar of signal at the end of the jetty, enough for me to check Whatsapps and emails.

Milky Way

It’s quite windy in the evening. I felt so relax laying on the platform of jetty and enjoyed the sea breeze. The sky was full of stars and shooting stars appeared almost every few minutes, some are quite big and last 4 or 5 seconds.

Pitas is a good place for stargazing

That’s crazy that by 7:30pm I already could see Milky Way spanned across the sky like a silver belt. I didn’t know Pitas is an excellent place for stargazing.

Kampung Pansuran

I also walked around Kampung Pansuran (Pansuran Village), a smaller fishing village about a stone’s throw from Malubang Village. Most residents there are Bajau Sama people.

View from Kampung Pansuran Village

Visit the water village of Kampung Pansuran

The villagers there are also equally nice and friendly. They were busy with fish caught and dried some of them under the sun to make dried seafood.

A young fisherman in Kampung Pansuran Village

Dried fishes on boardwalk of Kampung Pansuran Village

They still use traditional fishing methods such as fishing net and fishing line. Pitas is famous for its dried seafood.

Dried stingrays and fishes

Talking about village life, you might visualize I become a shirtless muscle guy playing soccer and laugh with the local kids, a cliche scene common in many movies. No, I didn’t do that, LOL.

Mondou Hill (Bukit Mondou)

To make sure I didn’t miss out any attraction near Malubang Village, Moktar took me to Bukit Mondou, a small hill only a few minutes drive from the village.

Mondou Hill (Bukit Mondou) in Pitas

Though Bukit Mondou is the highest point in Malubang, it is less than 80 Meters high, and it took us less than 30 minutes to reach the top. The trail is mostly flat and not challenging at all.

Climbing Mondou Hill (Bukit Mondou) in Pitas

However, the trail is not tourist-friendly and covered by long grasses. Please don’t go there alone.

You can see Berungus from the top of Mondou Hill (Bukit Mondou)

The view on top of Bukit Mondou is nice, as you can see Supirak Island and have a panoramic view of Malubang and Marudu Bay.

How to get there

From Kota Kinabalu City (KK), you need to drive about 5 hours to reach Malubang Village. The first 3 hours drive from KK to Pitas town is on 140 KM of paved road in good condition. The last 60 KM further north from Pitas to Malubang Village will be a bumpy 2-hour ride on gravel road.

The distance from Pitas town to Malubang Village is about 60 KM

Therefore, you need 4-Wheel Drive to enter this remote place. Though small sedan such as Kancil also can make it, it’ll be a pain to move around the potholes, mud ponds and uneven surface. The GPS Coordinates of Kampung Malubang is 6.956184, 117.060140 (see Location Map).

Gravel road from Pitas town to Malubang Village

It’s advisable you stop by Pitas town to have lunch and fill up the gas tank. For first timer, avoid to drive there at night because there is no street light along the way. Please also note that Uber and GrabCar aren’t available in Pitas district. Internet and mobile phone coverage are limited in most part of the journey.

Moktar pointing at Kudat town

Shopping for dried seafood (e.g. dried shrimps, salty fishes) in Pitas

Btw, one the way home, you may buy some dried seafood from the roadside stalls around Pitas, for great bargain.

Photos taken in Pitas, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Climbing Bukit Lugas (Lugas Hill) in Tambunan

The photos of Bukit Lugas (or Lugas Hill, Bukit means Hill in Malay language) in Tambunan were spreading like wild fire on social media last year. How does a small hill, which was never listed as an attraction, become a hot destination overnight? Just look at the photos below, and you will know why.

Bukit Lugas is on the bucket list of every Sabah hikers

Look like the back of a twin-humped dragon, Bukit Lugas is one of the most awesome hills in Sabah. Some hikers from Kota Kinabalu City (KK) even drive 103 KM to visit Bukit Lugas. Such geological feature resembles what is called “dragon spine”, a king-maker terrain in Chinese Feng Shui. Cool huh?

Bukit Lugas looks like a dragon from the air

Besides its unique landscape, most people think it’s thrilling to walk on the narrow trail on the ridge with cliff only two steps away at both side. Acrophobia (fear of heights) finds even looking at the photo is frightening enough.

Profile of Bukit Lugas

Location: Kampung Kitou, Tambunan (Sabah, Malaysia)
Opening Hours: 7:30am-4:00pm daily, includes public holiday
Height: 600 Meters (1,965 feet) above sea level
Hiking Distance: 1.7 KM one way (Return trip takes about 4 hours)
I would rate its difficulty 2 out of 5, which means easy, because it’s 92% walking and 8% climbing. The climb is more like a mental than physical challenge.

One for the album after the climb

The best time to climb is in early morning. After 9am, there is no shade on the hill for you to hide from the scorching sunlight. Though Bukit Lugas is 600 Meters, the starting point in Tambunan is 430 Meters above sea level, so you only need to ascend 170 Meters. Hope you get what I mean.

Going to Bukit Lugas

In a Saturday morning, I drove 2 hours from KK to the starting point of Bukit Lugas. This was my second visit, and I brought a drone and friends this time.

The entrance to Bukit Lugas is at the road side of Tambunan-Keningau highway

Signage with info on guide’s contact and opening hours (7:30am-4:00pm daily, include public holiday)

After I parked my car, we descend about 40 Meters via a steep slope trail in the wood to campus of SK Kitou, where our guide was already waiting in the bamboo hut named Pondok PIBG.

Going to the registration center next to SK Kitou school before the climb.

After registration and took our number 1 in a school toilet, we started hiking to Lugas Hill. I checked the signal strength on my phone. My Maxis line got good signal (3G), so is my friend with Celcom. Digi doesn’t work well there.

Everyone’s spirit is high

The 1st Kilometer is an easy walk on flat soil trail of countryside. This area is sparsely populated area with plantation of rubber, oil palm, banana, pineapple, tapioca, papaya and other crops along the way. We met a few friendly villagers who were busy harvesting latex and vegetables in the morning.

Start hiking to the hill

We crossed three streams and a small bamboo bridge. The water is very clean, and there was no rubbish. It was quite a wonderful stroll in the cooling morning of Tambunan highland.

Countryside and village view along the trail. Lower Right: The villagers were cleaning the rubber latex in case you wonder what those black stuffs are.

Start of Climb

After 25 minutes, we reached the foothill of Bukit Lugas, and went for a steep ascend on an uphill soil trail. It’s not really tough, just tiring.

Approaching the foothill. The yellow arrow points at the slope of Lugas Hill

View from the slope

Climbing the steepest section

After 100 Meters, we entered a forested zone and rest under the shade for a few minutes. Congratulations! The hardest part of the hike was over. Everything is easy from this point on.

The forested top of Bukit Lugas

Taking a break after the steep climb

We continued our climb after the short break. This part of the hill is quite densely forested. We walked in the shade for another 150 Meters, then we arrived to a fern path with soft and spongy ground.

Walking through the wood

The fern indicates the soil on the hill isn’t fertile. After walking near the end of 150-Meter fern path, we came to an open space, where we could see the exposed yellow rocky peaks of Lugas Hill.

The fern path on Bukit Lugas

At this point, what remained was only a 200 Meters ridge walk on the hill. The trail was quite narrow, so I walked slowly and carefully, as if I wanted to avoid awakening a sleeping dragon.

You can see the double hump of Bukit Lugas from here

Climbers stood on three high points of Lugas Hill

Part of the trail is only wide enough for one climber. I can’t afford to miss a step. I avoid looking at the edges or my feet would turn jello. Luckily, the iron bars and rope support gave me peace of mind.

Start of the ridge of Bukit Lugas

Anyway, the trail on the ridge isn’t very steep. Just be careful and you shall be fine.

This is the only real climbing section on the ridge.

The only problem is the hot sun. Heatstroke is a greater risk than falling, so do apply sunblock lotion and bring enough drinking water.

Enjoying the view on Bukit Lugas

Two climbers on top of the hill

I’m not sure why the top of Lugas Hill is almost bald. Probably it is too steep that all plant falls off, just kidding.

It’s a deep drop at both sides. Doesn’t look forgiving..

I would end up like this if I’m not cautious.

You can bring children to climb with you, as long as they listen to instruction and not running around.

Iron bars and rope support to prevent falling

Going to the highest point

On the top, I could have a panoramic view of surrounding green hills and plantation. It took us about 1 hour 16 minutes to finish the climb.

Approaching the peak of Lugas Hill

Reaching the top

The hill is composed largely of sandstone with interbedded mudstone and dominated by Acrisols and Cambisols soil. The soil is of type Lokan Association (Thanks Dr. Arthur Chung for the info).

Group photo on the highest point

Descending from Bukit Lugas

At last we descended and took less than an hour back to the starting point. The whole tour takes only 8 hours (includes road trip hours).

How to get there

The starting point of Lugas Hill is highly accessible by paved road. It is about 103 KM away from KK and 23 KM from Tambunan town. When you reach Tambunan town, take the Tambunan – Keningau highway, pay attention when you see the milestone with blue label that reads “27 KM Keningau”. You shall see the Bukit Lugas signpost at your left shortly. The GPS coordinate is 5.515174, 116.274475 (see Location Map).

Bukit Lugas looks scary but very easy to climb

Bukit Lugas is part of Kampung Kitou (village) and not a park. However, you need to hire a local guide to climb with you. Just call one of the cellphone numbers below to book a guide before you go:

Disclaimer: Listing of guides’ contact here is FYI only, it doesn’t mean that I recommend them.

Yay! we make it!

The guide fee per group is MYR30 (about USD$7.50). A guide can take up to 10 people. If a group of 10 climbers share a guide, it’ll cost only MYR3.00 per person, so bring more friends with you.

Things to Bring

Wear a pair of comfortable hiking shoes and bring the following things:

  • Drinking water
  • Raincoat / Umbrella
  • Snacks such as energy bar
  • Walking stick
  • Gloves
  • Hat
  • Sunglasses
  • Sunblock lotion
  • Jacket (it’s chilling in early morning of Tambunan highland)
  • Insect repellent

Aerial view of Bukit Lugas

Photos taken in Tambunan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Serinsim, a different face of Kinabalu Park

A family is having a hard time to plan a holiday trip at a destination that makes everyone happy.

Grandfather: “I want to learn some local history and legend.”
Mother: “How about a BBQ feast?”
Father: “Let’s climb a mountain.”
Son: “Camping and jungle trekking will be fun!”
Daughter: “I love swimming in river.”

Location of Serinsim (Sorinsim) and Kinabalu Park

Finally they decide to visit Serinsim (or Sorinsim) in Kota Marudu, which has all these. There is no second place in Sabah where we can find river, waterfall, forest, cave, mountain and historical site in one park.

Signage to different attractions inside Serinsim. It’s ok if you can’t read Malay. I’ll tell you what they are later.

Serinsim is a substation in northern part of Kinabalu Park, the first UNESCO World Heritage Site of Malaysia. Lies between the Serinsim and Kanarom rivers, the river of Serinsim is straight from the undisturbed rainforest and mountain, so its water is crystal clear and almost as good as Spritzer.

Kanarom River in Serinsim (Sorinsim)

You may be familiar with the mountainous zone in Kinabalu Park HQ in Kundasang highland. Serinsim is at opposite side of HQ, which is dominated by lowland rainforest, shows different face of Kinabalu Park. Most locals only come here to enjoy the cooling river, without knowing that Serinsim has the following special attractions:

1. Mount Nombuyukong (Gunung Nombuyukong)

With a height of 1,603.57 Meters, Mt. Nombuyukong is 976 Metres lower than its sister peak, Mt. Tambuyukon, the third highest mountain of Malaysia. Mount Nombuyukong can be conquered within a day.

Mount Nombuyukong in Serinsim

>> Read about the challenging climb to Mt. Nombuyukong…

2. Bat Cave (Gua Kelawar)

Gua Kelawar is a small cave about 200 Meters long, and it is for the adventurous you who like the idea of exploring the unknown. *Hint:* many creeping critters in the darkness. I saw rare mushroom and endemic begonia outside the cave.

The rocky wall of Bat Cave (Gua Kelawar) in Serinsim

>> Read my scary story inside Bat Cave…

3. Misumpak Waterfall

Serinsim is more than a park for swimming and picnic only. Do a jungle trekking to visit the 12-Meter Misumpak Waterfall. Soaking in its cooling ponds will be one of the best nature experience, I promise. You would see hornbill, civet, red leaf monkey, orangutan and other wildlife on the way.

Misumpak Waterfall and its pond

>> Read more about Misumpak Waterfall…

4. Gambaliu, the Tallest Man in the World

According to the local legend, a giant named Gambaliu lived here about two to three thousand years ago. With a height of 24 feet, Gambaliu is taller than giraffe. He was a gentle and helpful giant. However, what his people did after he died was sort of… heartless.

Tomb of Gambaliu, the tallest man

>> See the Tomb of Gambaliu…

5. Sigunting Graveyard

Sick of those cliche movies about superheroes saving the mankind? Let’s hear the story of real Sabah hero, Si-Gunting, who fought British imperialism for 7 years.

Graveyard of Sigunting, a Sabahan hero

>> Read more about Sigunting…

6. Deer Farm

About 120 Meters from the hostel (Asrama Kanarom) is a 0.5-Acre of fenced and forested Deer Farm. The best time to visit is the feeding time at 2pm, the time about 10 Sambar deers show up for jackfruit, tapioca leaves, banana, and fruits given by the Park.

Deer Farm of Serinsim. Visitors can walk up to the tower for better view.

Below is the trail and layout map of Serinsim. Please note that for most jungle trekking activities, you are required to hire a guide from the Park, which can be arranged easily one day in advance.

Trail map to different attractions in Serinsim. Translation: Pejabat = Office, Galeri = Gallery, Pondok = Gazebo, Pelawat = Visitor, Tapak Perkhemahan = Camping Ground, Tandas Awam = Public Toilet, Dapur = Kitchen, Sungai = River, Sg. = River, Anak Sungai = Small River, Jalan Raya = Road, Jambatan Kerata = Bridge for Car, Air Terjun = Waterfall, Makam = Grave, Puncak = Peak, Kem = Camp, Ke = To

Accommodation

Three chalets and one hostel are available to accommodate three families and 24 people respectively in the Park. Below is a quick comparison of the price. The rate is as of July 2017, and GST tax is included.

Accommodation TypeRate per Night
CampingAdult: MYR5.30 (≈USD$1.32)
Below 12: MYR2.15 (≈USD$0.53)
Hostel (Asrama Kanarom)Adult: MYR42.40 (≈USD$10.60)
Below 18: MYR31.80 (≈USD$7.95)
Chalet1 Chalet: MYR318.00 (≈USD$79.50)
1 Room: MYR106 (≈USD$26.50)

Notes: Check-out time is 11:00am. Non-halal food such as pork is forbidden in the accommodation. The accommodation is not well-maintained. Before you unpack your luggage, make sure everything in your room is functioning (e.g. water supply, light, air-cond). Just in case anything is broken, you can change to other room quickly.

Asrama Kanarom Hostel

Asrama Kanarom Hostel is a dormitory-style one storey building which has four bedrooms, common toilet + bathroom and kitchen. Each room has 6 bunk beds, so this hostel can host about 24 people.

Asrama Kanarom Hostel in Serinsim
Interior of Asrama Kanarom Hostel in Serinsim

The fee for each bunk bed in hostel is MYR42.40 for adult and MYR31.80 for kid (below 18 years old). The room has air-conditioner, and pillow and blanket are provided. It’s an economic choice for budget travelers and student group who don’t mind to share room.

Bunk beds in Asrama Kanarom Hostel

The kitchen has gas stove, cooking and dining utensils for use by the guests. Electricity and water supply are available all time.

Kitchen of Asrama Kanarom Hostel

However, there is no private bathroom. Guests can share the common unisex toilet and bathroom. Sorry, no water heater for a hot shower, but you can boil hot water in kitchen like what I did.

Toilet cum shower room, cooking area, utensils and refrigerator in Asrama Kanarom Hostel

One nice thing about this hostel is that it’s located next to the starting point of trail to all nature attractions.

Chalets

There are three chalets in the Park. You can book the whole chalet for MYR318 per night, or rent a room for MYR106. Each chalet has three rooms (two of them are single bed). Each chalet is limited for 6 people. For additional guests, you need to pay extra MYR30 per person.

There are 3 chalets in Serinsim Substation
Chalets of Serinsim

Each room has an attached bathroom cum toilet. Heater for hot shower is not available. Soap and towel are provided for the guest. Every room has air-conditioning.

Chalet of Serinsim (or Sorinsim). At the left is Mt. Nombuyukong
Bedroom, living room and kitchen of Serinsim Chalet

Camping

Camping ground is also available to those who desire a more nature experience. For adult, the camping fee per night is MYR5.30 and MYR2.15 for child below 12. You can rent a camping tent for MYR30/day at Sabah Parks office, or bring your own.

Camping ground of Serinsim
Gazebo and benches at camping site

The campsite is just next to the river. There are gazebos, benches, public toilet and kitchen nearby that area.

Campers in Serinsim
Kitchen near camping ground

There is no lighting at night, so you better bring your camping light and torchlight.

Barbecue party at the hostel

There is no TV, karaoke and night life in the park, so you will get bored in the evening. Do plan some fun activities for the night, for example, board games, BBQ party, strip poker, watch movies on laptop.

Playing Uno in the hostel (Asrama Kanarom)

By the way, Kota Marudu is famous for its maize. You can buy some along the way and grill it, it’s delicious.

Layout Map of Serinsim Substation

Don’t be impressed by the facilities listed in the map above. Everything in Serinsim is basic, nothing 5-star. For example, the so called soccer field is just a grassland. The restaurant never opens and there is no gallery.

How to get there

Serinsim is about 32 KM from Kota Marudu town and 130 KM away from Kota Kinabalu City (capital of Sabah). This substation is now highly accessible after asphalt highway is complete in 2013. The GPS coordinate is 6.293915, 116.707986 (see Location Map).

Asphalt road to Serinsim in Kota Marudu

In the past you needed a 4-wheel drive to get in. That might be the reason why Serinsim is one of the least explored parks in Sabah. There is no bus goes directly to Serinsim.

You will pass through Marak-Parak Village and Sorinsim Village before you reach Serinsim

You also can go to Serinsim from Poring Hot Springs, the 46-KM road is in good condition.

Signage at the entrance. Translation: Welcome to Kinabalu Park, Serinsim Sub-Station, Kota Marudu

Things to Note

For a better travel experience at Serinsim, please take note of the following:

  1. There is no restaurant in the Park. You can prepare your own food in their kitchen, buy food from villages nearby (The shops are usually roadside residential run by villagers with signage such as Gerai Makan (Food Stall) or Kedai Runcit (Grocery Store)), or drive 30 minutes to Kota Marudu town looking for restaurant.
  2. The mobile line coverage is none or poor in the Park. My Maxis line got 0 bar. Celcom may work. Anyway, let’s prepare to be offline there.
  3. Bring insect repellent. There are mosquitoes in shaded area during dusk and dawn.
  4. There is a grocery shop and cafe outside the park entrance.
  5. Most area in Park has no light. Bring a torchlight if you would move around in the Park at night, especially campers.
Sabah Parks office and car park of Serinsim (Sorinsim)

Entrance Fee

The following is the ticket fee to enter the park. They only accept cash in Ringgit Malaysia (MYR).

ItemFee / Rate
Conservation FeeMalaysian: MYR10.00
Foreigner: MYR50.00
Below 18 years old: MYR5.00 and MYR25.00 respectively
Conservation Fee with effect from 1 Jan 2023
Ticket counter at the entrance of Serinsim (Sorinsim)

Serinsim is managed by Sabah Parks. For more information about Serinsim, you may browse www.sabahparks.org.my or call the head office of Sabah Parks in Kota Kinabalu at +60 88-523500.

Photos taken in Kota Marudu, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo