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Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp – Part 6 of 8

Lumbering in Sabah

I bet you had heard standard message like “Sabah is blessed because of its rich natural resources such as forest…” in government speech or tourism promotion ad, over and over again for many years. My friends, after you look at the graph below, you will have to stop telling people that Sabah got lot of “kayu balak” (timber).

This graph, which shows the remaining forest for commercial logging, is from the government official report. You can find this information easily in reference section of Sabah State Library. Yes, we still have a few protected / reserved forest left, but they are threaten by illegal logging activities. Timber is not something so small that we can put it into our pocket. How can it got stolen and smuggled out “undetected”? Well, all Sabahans know the answer. In the river cruise on Kinabatangan River, every time we could see hundreds of log being transported on the river.

We paid a visit to HABITAT Nursery Centre in Bilit Village. HABITAT was formed by WWF, with the aim of reviving the forest to build the Corridor of Life for Kinabatangan wildlife such as Orang Utan. The tree species (e.g. Tangkol, Bongkol, Binuang, Sangkuang) they select are the ones that can produce fruits (food) for the wild animals.

Most people have a very wrong idea of recovering a forest. They think planting some trees on a deforested area can bring the same forest back. After logging, the soil and environmental conditions have changed. The tree species that are used to live there may not be able to survive. HABITAT has replanted 8,800 seedling so far. Flood is the biggest problem, as it would destroy their effort overnight. They also educate the local community on the importance of forest.

Please give hope to our Orang Utan…

On the newspaper, sometimes we could hear chilling statement like “There is no evidence to prove that logging leads to the declining of Orang Utan population”, “Eating shark fin will not endanger the shark”, “You want gold or monkey?”… Can’t believe all these were from the mouth of the government officers.

We did a few “symbolic” tree planting at HABITAT. On the same day, we were depressed to see another boat pulling hundreds of log on the river. Sigh… we feel so powerless when seeing those floating log passing by our boat like a long train.

We lose so much but gain so little. Sabah still remains one of the poorest states. Clearing the forest is like killing the goose that lays the golden eggs. In the future, we will run out of natural resources and all living a poor live, by that time, who have the time to care about the living of other wild animals?

The negative impact of overlogging is not so far away. Below is another graph from the official source, about the soil pollution in river. The report says, “In the year 2000… 47 out of 73 river monitoring stations, or 65%, fell into the polluted category, four were classified as slightly polluted (5%), and 22 clean or free from pollution (30%) (Source: Department of the Environment 2000)” Cool huh? Our rivers are not so far away from 100% polluted.

Logging and agriculture are the main cause of deforestion, which creates soil erosion and flood. Didn’t you notice that the flood in Sabah is getting stronger and stronger, more and more frequent? The problem will arrive our door step and water tap one day, if not now.

Photos taken in Lower Kinabatangan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp – Part 5 of 8

Black-Hearted Oil Palm, Half-Hearted Government

You would have heard stories about the wealth of oil palm farmers. They drive the most expensive cars in town and live in luxury houses. One of them even slammed thousand dollar cash in front of a car salesman coz he thought the salesman looked down on him. This sort of story “inspired” lot of people. For years, I have been hearing many people excitedly talked about the bright future of owning an oil palm plantation, wishing that they could also throw cash at people’s face.


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Whatever, it is absolutely nothing wrong to be rich, provided that we earn our money in legal way and don’t harm the others. However, the view of oil palm planted right to the edge of the Kinabatangan River is really a disturbing view to nature lovers. By law, 20 Metres of the land next to the high-water mark of bigger river is a reserved area (riparian reserve) of government, and does not belong to the planters. In short, it is a violation of law to use this reserve area for own purpose such as plantation.


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The 20-metre-wide riparian reserve will serve as (1) a buffer zone for flood, and (2) migration passenge for wildlife such as Borneo Pygmy elephants. To move to other area with more food supply, Borneo Pygmy elephants have a habit of seasonal migration along the river. The encroachment of palm oil plantation into riparian reserve cut off the migration route of Borneo Pygmy elephant and other animals. It is same as building a farm on the highway, blocking all the cars on the road. As a result, they have to venture into private lands, including villages, thereby causing conflict between them and human.


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In the river cruise for 2 days, we were so impressed to see almost no garbage floating on the river. The local community has done a great job to keep the river clean. The Kinabatangan River is also their source of drinking water and fish catch. Since the blooming of oil palm, the ca$h crop, the oil palm mills and plantation have polluted the river with 50,000 to 80,000 tons of harmful chemical and fertiliser every year. If you ask the local fishermen, you would know that there are less fishes nowadays and the contaminated water makes them ill.


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Did our government do anything? Yes, they did… well, to be precise, they did “say” something but didn’t “do” anything. Below was what the government said in Daily Express newspaper of May 8, 2006 (more than a year ago):
“Oil palm companies in the Kinabatangan have been urged to ensure their plantation boundaries do not encroach riparian areas (along riverbanks) to avoid the risk of being penalised by the Government. On April 4, Chief Minister Datuk Seri Musa Aman called on oil palm plantation owners encroaching into State land reserves, especially riparian areas, to vacate the areas immediately or face the music… blah, blah, blah…”

Does this sound familiar? Oh ya, they also said the SAME thing in newspaper recently. Some politicians only made some big hooha like last year, then nothing would happen. It is already more than 1 year, but the oil palm plantation encroachment is still there. What is the authority waiting for? Just cut down those encroaching oil palm and lock those owners in jail!

If the environmentalists and press didn’t report the encroachment last month, I have doubt if the authority would do anything, even after 5 years, 10 years, 20 years… The commitment of government on conservation efforts is simply disappointing and a BIG failure (though I really appreciate they remove shark fin from the menu of official dinner). I’m afraid many other issues such as fish bombing, illegal logging… will never end until there is no fish, no forest left..


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In fact, 20 metres is not wide enough, so WWF proposes a 150-metre “Corridor of Life” to connect all the small forest patches, which are separated by the oil palm plantation. The vegetation on this corridor needs to be dense enough so the wildlife feels safe to use it. This also allows the elephants to look for girlfriend and boyfriend at other sides, rather than breeding with their family, which will weaken their genes. Otherwise, one day our tourists would see elephants with 6 legs, orang utan with long nose, etc…


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The Corridor of Life is a win-win solution to both planters and wildlife. The wildlife can have larger habitat and move freely to get more food, and the planters still can continue their profitable busine$$, without intruding the reserve. I don’t hope too much. A 50-metre corridor is really a good start already. The animals only need a small part of the land mostly situated near the riverbanks, which is not suitable for plantation too due to flood.

But the response from the oil palm plantation owners is like giving a big middle finger to everyone. I saw some clothing like the picture below put along the river. This is to scare away the elephants. I even heard shocking statement like, “It is cheaper to shoot the orang utan than relocating them.”


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Next year I will go back to Kinabatangan again to check the progress and take some photos. If nothing is done, probably I can send the photos to the foreigner press, together with a name list of those plantation that encroaches the reserve.

Photos taken in Lower Kinabatangan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp – Part 4 of 8

Borneo Pygmy Elephants

Before Borneo Pygmy Elephants were identified as a new elephant species in 2003, basically nobody really cared about them. For many years, we thought they were common Asian elephants, the one could be found everywhere in South-East Asia. Because of this discovery, this smallest elephant in the world became a national treasure overnight. While we are so excited about this new superstar, there are less than 1,000 Borneo Pygmy Elephants in Sabah now. They are critically endangered, thanks to habitat destruction caused by heavy logging and oil palm plantation. Below is a graph compares the max height of 3 elephant species.


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This so-called smallest elephant is not so “mini”. They can grow up to nearly 8 feet. Below is picture of their footprint, with my foot next to it. The footprint is 1-foot in depth (so heavy!). Last year I was so disappointed to see only their dropping and footprint in Tabin Wildlife Reserve (near Lahad Datu). The Tabin guide said they saw Borneo Pygmy Elephants eating the mud (for supplementary mineral?) in mud volcano occasionally. I was so glad that I saw them in Kinabatangan this time.


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About 5:40PM in a Kinabatangan river cruise in early Sep, we saw a butt of an Borneo Pygmy Elephant behind the wood. Actually we were late, because the elephants have finished their bath and refreshment next to the river, so they started to move into the forest. Driven by passion, almost everyone jumped out of the boat to see the largest land animal in Borneo.


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Under the advice and instructions of the guide, our group hide behind the trees quietly, and looked at the Borneo Pygmy Elephants. We took off our orange life jacket coz we were told that the elephants didn’t like the bright color. There were about 10 Borneo Pygmy Elephants in this herd. They have seen us but still continued with their feeding and keeping an eye on us.


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We had to be very careful, as there were a few calves (baby elephants), so the adults would be more aggressive. We kept a distance of 20 feet away from them. Later a male elephant, which looked like their leader, walked to a spot between us and his herd. Then he was busily pouring some soil on his body. After a while, this elephant roared and walked toward us, so scary… I have captured all this in a video. You can Click Here to watch the 1-min video clip of Borneo Pygmy Elephants.


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Borneo Pygmy Elephant is more passive and timid than other elephant species. But keep in mind that they are still wild animal. Once feel threaten, they will not hesitate to charge. After 300,000 years of separation with their cousins on mainland Asia and Sumatra, Borneo Pygmy Elephant has evolved to a different subspecies (Scientific Name: Elephas maximus borneensis), which is smaller, with larger ears, longer tails and relatively straight tusks. They have dark grey to brown skin.


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To see these elephants, we got our feet full of mud. The soil of river bank is so soft and muddy. We wanted to wash our feet in the river but we were afraid of crocodiles. Anyway, it was a cool experience. Protecting them should be a high priority mission, as Borneo Pygmy Elephant is 10 times more endangered than African elephants, according to BBC News. I hope in the future, they won’t end up being forced to entertain visitors to zoo, or do doggy trick in circus, in order to earn a living and stayed alive. Elephant is an intelligent animal and it has emotion too. Until today, I still cannot forget the sadness of a circus elephant that I saw in its eyes a few years ago… They only need a home. Why people are so cruel to them?


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Photos taken in Lower Kinabatangan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp – Part 3 of 8

Sunset & Night Cruise

The excitement never ended at Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp. After the afternoon river cruise, we had some refreshment and check-in to our room. Shortly we were called for the sunset cruise. This was because Uncle Tan team spotted the Borneo Pygmy elephants, world’s smallest elephant. Usually the elephants would gather near the river for a shower before sunset.


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Sep was a good season for watching elephants coz their migration route was near to our camp that month. And yes we found them. This is one of the highlight, so I will blog more about them tomorrow. Frankly, seeing Borneo Pygmy elephants in the wild is already worth the long journey to come here.


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After saying goodbye to the elephants, we continued our sunset river cruise on Kinabatangan River. More birds and monkeys were seen. The world’s largest crocodile species also lives in Kinabatangan. We saw a few small ones, about 8 feet in length. They can grow up to 9 Metres long. Wow… that’s as big as a boat.


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Soon the sunset was approaching. We returned to our camp with great satisfaction of what we’ve seen. If you like river safari, Klias River (near Beaufort) is also a great place to visit. But Klias wetland is a peat swamp forest, a different experience.


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Once you have seen the beauty of Kinabatangan, you will understand why environmental bodies are trying so hard to protect the forest and rivers. It is very saddening to imagine those wonderful wildlife losing their home and extinct due to deforestation, which is happening now.


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The night river safari started at 10 PM, which was our 3rd river cruise of the day. Tomorrow we will have morning river cruise and night safari (jungle trekking). You would see different animals in each cruise. For the 1-hour night cruise, we saw Malay civets, fish owls, monkeys, hornbill, monitor lizard, and crocodiles. The eyes of animals can reflect light in the dark. The boatman used the spotlight to scan for such “reflection” in the trees and river. That’s how we spot them.


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Photos taken in Lower Kinabatangan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp – Part 2 of 8

Uncle Tan’s Neighbours

Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp is in the middle of a secondary forest. Everything is back to basic. I like the not-so-commercialised setting of their camp. As there is no power supply from 12 midnight until 6 PM, do not expect to watch TV or taking hot shower there. They will provide enough food to make you full, so you won’t eat the wildlife. All the guides are locals, they can converse well in English and are very good in spotting wildlife.


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Looking at the “scoreboard” below, Malaysian is not even in the Top 5 visitors. Most Sabahan may not know this camp, but it is one of the favourite Borneo destinations of backpackers, especially UK. Many are repeated visitors and know this place by words of mouth. I will come back next time, with a 300mm telephoto len!


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Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp is surrounded by dense forest. So… besides human visitors, you will see wild animals all the time. Some are just passing by, many are regular visitors. If you trek out of the immediate camp area, you can observe more wildlife such as Orang Utan. If you are lucky, you would see rhino. No worry, leech is not common around the camp area.


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In the first morning, someone broke into a hut and stole the food. They are the Macaque monkeys. After the trip to Tabin, I had learnt that bringing food to the wild could attract unwanted attention. These monkeys are smart but naughty. They know how to open the door, unzip the bag, and very interested in plastic bag… I followed one of the monkey groups to the wood nearby to take some photos. One of them sat on a tree branch just a few feet away from me, observing my every move.


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As the name implies, this camp was established by “Uncle Tan”. He passed away years ago. Now the “new” Uncle Tan is Eugene Tan, the son of Uncle Tan. He took a lot of excellent wildlife photos, so many that he doesn’t have the time to work on all of them. You can see some of his works in the camp and web site. During wet season (Nov – Apr), the camp area would turn into a “wetland” and become very muddy. Because of heavy logging in Kinabatangan area, flood would happen in rainy period.


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After I had my dinner in first night, I saw a big animal busy searching for food near the kitchen. “Wow! That’s really a big dog,” I thought. This was the first time I saw “Kum Kum”, a female bearded pig who visited the camp regularly, with her babies. According to Eugene, Kum Kum is the offspring of a bearded pig that they adopted years ago. Even though he was released to the wild, his 1st, 2nd generation always visited the camp. You can see them in the morning and evening. The visitors are so amazed by such “friendship” between the human and wildlife.


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Other visitors include Monitor Lizard, which is mistaken as crocodile sometimes. Pygmy Squirrel, the smallest squirrel of Borneo. I also noticed a number of Birdwing butterflies like to gather on a particular tree in the camp. I wish to take more pictures, but my batteries are all running low…


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Photos taken in Lower Kinabatangan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp – Part 1 of 8

Where is the BEST place to spot Borneo wildlife? I would say it is the Lower Kinabatangan area, Sabah’s “Gift to the Earth”. Kinabatangan River, with a length of 560KM, is the longest river of Sabah and also the home of many wildlife such as Borneo pygmy elephants, proboscis monkeys, orang utans, hornbills and probably thousands of flora and fauna yet to be named. It is a paradise for nature lovers.


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Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp, situated in Lower Kinabatangan Flood Plains, provides budget and basic accommodation for those (especially backpackers) who love to experience the wilderness of Borneo. Officially, the Camp area is called “Danau Girang”, which means “Happy Lake” in local language. Many just call it Uncle Tan’s place. To get there, check out Uncle’s Tan web site for more info. In early Sep, I joined this 3-day-2-night trip with a group of press and environmental NGOs. We took a bus to Sandakan and stopped at Kampung Batu Putih, where we took a 1-hour boat ride to Uncle Tan’s Wildlife Camp.


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The cruise to the camp is in itself a afternoon river safari. We were impressed by number of long-nosed Proboscis monkeys, hornbills and birds that we spotted along the river. According to a birdwatcher on the same boat, some of the birds we saw are rare species. Hundreds of macaque monkeys were found gathering along the river bank, hmmm… having a picnic?


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Proboscis monkeys are so common here. They are very shy and timid. When our boat came nearer, they would run away or hide behind leaves and branches. The guide told us that Proboscis monkey cannot eat banana coz their digestion system is different. We also discovered a few young crocodiles resting on the muddy river bank.


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The weather was good, and we arrived the jetty of Uncle Tan’s place at 5:10 PM. Once landed, we were led by their friendly staffs for a 10-minute walk on the jungle trail to the camp. Later what we saw in front of us was not chalets or lodges, but some wooden raised huts. I think they really mean it when they say they only provide very basic accommodation.


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Our “bedroom” has no window, no door, no fan. Haha… It looks more like a big chicken cage to me. What we got is a light mattress and mosquito net. Power supply is only available from 6PM to 12AM, mainly for lighting. It was warm and humid in the afternoon, but quite cooling at night. The first night I really couldn’t sleep well, as I heard all sort of noise such as animal’s cry, stuff crawling on the roof, something scratching the wall… But all my roomates slept soundly…


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Later there are more fun surprises awaiting me. You will hear more in my next blog. Since there are quite a lot of experience to be shared, I divide the blog into 9 parts. But all the photos are posted first. To speed up page loading, all the photos in my blog are in low quality, to see the high quality photos, please check out the photo gallery.

Photos taken in Lower Kinabatangan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Puu Jih Buddhist Temple, Sandakan

The next 360° Panoramic Virtual Tour that I would like to introduce is the Puu Jih Buddhist Temple, which is the highest temple in Sandakan. This is the second time I visit Puu Jih Temple. The first visit was more than 10 years ago, but I could not forget the breathtaking view of Sandakan Bay from there. For me, the whole building, from the door to the roof, is like a piece of art. The outstanding artwork is nicely integrated into the great scenery.

Inside you feel the greatness of the Buddha, when you walk outside, you feel the greatness of the world, then you feel great, haha.. Just a few hundreds meters away from Puu Jih Temple, there is a Di Zhang (God of Earth) Temple, which is surrounded by sky, mountains and forest. Really a nice concept. Puu Jih Temple is just a few KM away from Sandakan city. If you plan to take a city tour, you must not miss this attractive spot.

Take the Virtual Tour Now

Photos taken in Sandakan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo