by To escape the recent heatwaves, many head to higher ground. While the road to the famous Kinabalu Park is often congested during the peak season, few people think of visiting Gunung Alab (Mount Alab). This highland park is cooler, more affordable, and closer to Kota Kinabalu City.
About Gunung Alab (Mount Alab) Substation
Managed by Sabah Parks, Gunung Alab is one of the substations of Crocker Range Park, the largest terrestrial park in Sabah. Located at 1,951 metres (6,401 ft) above sea level, the temperature at this substation is about 20°C during the day but can drop to between 11°C and 18°C at night. It is likely the highest mountain in Sabah that is reachable by car. The forest type here is mainly montane forest (or cloud forest) characterized by a mossy and misty environment.
What to Do at Gunung Alab?
If you are a nature lover looking for inner peace and prefer a secluded place to relax without the rush of a “kiasu” tourist, Gunung Alab is a perfect soul and lung-cleansing destination. When you take a stroll through the park, you will encounter various interesting animals and plants if you keep a keen eye out for them.
1) Highland Retreat
Though there is no fancy accommodation or “wow” views here, I would say Gunung Alab is one of the best spots in Sabah to escape the lowland heat. You can set up your camping tents on the camping ground or in the gazebo (*camping fee applies). The park only fits about 10 standard camping tents, so space is limited. While you can walk in to camp, it is better to call the park ahead to book a spot because it can be full during weekends. Public toilets and shower rooms are available nearby.
If you do not want to sleep inside a tent, below are some accommodation options within the park:
- Chalet: RM300 per house
- Hostel: 4 Units of Standard Room. RM40 per person
- Tom Cabin: 2 Double Decker for RM100
Electricity via power generator is not available during the daytime, so a portable power bank will be handy.
2) Flora Walk and Forest Bathing
It is a bonus if you love flowers. Gunung Alab is a forested park that acts as a natural garden for some of the protected and endemic flora of Borneo. There are two gardens in the park: the Wild Orchid Garden and the Nepenthes and Rhododendron Garden.
The Wild Orchid Garden is a loop trail on a 350-metre boardwalk. The wooden boardwalk sits about 1 to 3 feet above the ground to keep you away from the bugs on the forest floor. The park houses more than 100 orchid species. To be honest, in contrast to showy commercial orchids, native wild orchids are tiny and do not bloom all year round, so you need to be very observant to spot them.
The Nepenthes and Rhododendron Garden is a 250-metre walk on a cement-paved trail. If you pay attention to the ground, you will see the jar-like Nepenthes, more commonly known as pitcher plants. These plants use their openings to trap insects to collect nutrients as a supplement. You will also encounter white or red blooming Rhododendron flowers at eye level among the green foliage.
Besides these, you will find other plants such as Begonia and palms in the woods. If you are feeling too lazy to walk, there are some orchids, pitcher plants, and Rhododendrons planted around the main compound as well.
3) Hiking
A walk in the park is definitely not enough for everyone. To see the most beautiful side of Gunung Alab, you need to explore a bit deeper. In the Nepenthes and Rhododendron Garden, there is a junction leading to the pristine 356-metre Mengilan Trail, which is a soft and mossy path. Beware, however, as you will likely encounter a few leeches on this side quest.
Here you see the true colours of the montane forest, characterized by moss, algae, and lichen carpets covering the trees and ground. The occasional mist adds a mysterious feel. It is a green alien world where your nose breathes the cleanest air and your ears hear birds chirping. That is what it means to be surrounded by nature. In the wet seasons, fungi sprout everywhere in many different colours.
You will reach a junction after about 30 minutes. You have two choices: ascend via the soil stairway to exit near the park office, or follow the descending path to climb Minduk Sirung.
Minduk Sirung Trail
Want to attempt a 12km hike via the Minduk Sirung trail from Gunung Alab Substation to Mahua Substation? The first 6.5km leads you to the peak of Minduk Sirung at 2,050 metres above sea level, making it the 7th highest peak in Sabah. You then hike another 5.5km to descend to Mahua Substation. This moderate difficulty hike takes 10 to 12 hours depending on your fitness level.
A climbing permit, insurance, and a mountain guide are mandatory. You can arrange the climb with the staff at Gunung Alab Substation. To get the full experience, some hikers camp on the mountain for a night. Be sure to bring enough water, packed food, a raincoat, warm clothing, and a torchlight. You can also consider hiring a porter to lighten your load.
I was told that one of the most beautiful mossy forests is along the Minduk Sirung trail. It is on my bucket list now, so follow me for updates! The hike ends at Mahua Substation, where you can take a dip at its famous waterfall. Make sure you arrange for someone to pick you up there after the hike.
4) Birdwatching
Gunung Alab is a birdwatching hotspot famous for mountain bird species that live at high altitudes. Many of them are endemic to Borneo, such as the Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush, Bornean Treepie, Chestnut-crested Yuhina, and Crimson-headed Partridge. To dive deeper, you can check out the bird list at ebird.org or watch the video “Wingbeats Of Borneo”.
In the early morning, birdwatchers follow the 1km uphill paved road (which is somewhat poorly maintained) to the Telecommunications Tower. Experienced bird guides can help you spot birds along the road. Next to the tower is a short trail that leads to the site for Crimson-headed Partridges. Be warned: you must first get an entry permit from the Sabah Forestry Department to enter this specific area or you will be fined.
Another alternative birding spot is owned by KK Lee at the Gunung Alab Motel and Restaurant. It is approved by the Sabah Forestry Department to operate as a birdwatching spot. More on this later.
5) Macro Photography “Blind Box”
Photo hunting at Gunung Alab is like a lucky draw. I might find a gem if I am lucky, or I might go home empty-handed. Some critters are rare animals high on the bucket list of nature photographers. Even the leeches (Tritetrabdella kinabaluensis) here are endemic to Borneo.
In the morning, you can see dozens of moths and other insects attracted by the night lights. On sunny days, butterflies are active. I once captured great shots of the Kinabalu Swordtail (Graphium stratiotes) and Kinabalu Bluebottle (Graphium procles), which were later printed in the book “Butterflies of Borneo.” My hunt is not over yet, as I am still looking for the Blue Lanternfly (Pyrops heringi).
Last year, I spotted a Fire-lipped Keelback (Rhabdophis murudensis) near the campsite. I have heard of people doing night walks to look for snakes, and who knows Gunung Alab could be the next promising herping site.
How to Get There
Gunung Alab Substation is nearly 60km away from Kota Kinabalu City and takes less than 1.5 hours to reach (see Location Map). Just head toward Tambunan using the hilly Penampang-Tambunan road. About 21km before Tambunan town, you will reach a shoplot named Gunung Alab Motel and Restaurant (see Location Map) at the roadside, which is a popular stop for meals or toilet breaks.
The junction to Gunung Alab Substation is opposite the motel with a low-key sign. Just drive in and follow the 2km winding road uphill. The road is paved and not steep, so even a small car can make it.
| Category | Entrance Fee | Camping Fee |
|---|---|---|
| Malaysian Adult | RM6 | RM10 |
| Malaysian (13-17 years) | RM5 | Free |
| Malaysian | Free (Below 13, Senior 60+, or Disabled Person) | Free (Below 18, Senior 60+, or Disabled Person) |
| Non-Malaysian Adult | RM20 | RM20 |
| Non-Malaysian (17 years and below) | RM12 | RM10 |
Contact of the Gunung Alab Substation
Gunung Alab Substation is open from 8am to 5pm every day. For booking rooms, email sabahparkslogisticsinfo@gmail.com or call the HQ Office of Crocker Range Park (Keningau) at +60 19-8620404. For camping and climbing Minduk Sirung, please contact Gunung Alab Substation directly by phone or WhatsApp at +60 19-8620303.
Gunung Alab Motel and Restaurant
There is no restaurant or cafe located at the substation itself. You can have your meals at the Gunung Alab Restaurant, which is open from 7am to 8pm. One of the shops is Halal. My favourite dish is the Nasi Goreng Kampung (Village Fried Rice), though other dishes such as chicken rice, fried noodles and noodle soup are available too. You can also buy bread, steamed buns, cakes, and snacks at the shops there.
Gunung Alab Birdwatching Point
If you are more interested in bird photography than general birdwatching, I highly recommend KK Lee’s Gunung Alab Birdwatching Point (see Location Map) located beside the restaurant. It is a roofed structure with a cement floor and an open area facing the forest. Photographers simply pay a flat fee and can enjoy taking photos from sunrise to sunset.
Depending on your luck, you might see the Sunda Bush Warbler, Mountain Tailorbird, Bornean Leafbird, Bornean Treepie, Bornean Forktail, Mountain Black-eye, Chestnut-crested Yuhina, Bare-headed Scimitar Babbler, and Golden-naped Barbet. The Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush and Sunda Laughingthrush are regulars. I felt like I hit the jackpot when I spotted a Bornean Green Magpie and Whitehead’s Spiderhunter. The staffs there will also alert you when something special shows up.
Facebook: GunungAlab Birds WatchingPoint
Phone: +60 13-7821886
It is so easy that it almost feels like cheating. It used to be costly and time-consuming to find these rare endemic birds, but now you can do it right at the roadside. You can sit on a chair and play the waiting game while sipping a cup of coffee. When you are hungry, just walk to the restaurant next door. Some birds are so accustomed to people that they come too close for a 500mm fixed lens!
At night, they set up insect light traps. Thousands of insects such as moths, mantids, beetles, and cicadas are drawn here by the UV light. When birding ends, I switch to my macro lens and stay busy scanning the screens for cool bugs to photograph. It is no wonder this place has become a favourite weekend destination for many local photographers.
Gunung Alab Motel
If you are only visiting for the Birdwatching Point, it is more convenient to stay at the Gunung Alab Motel next door. They have different room types ranging from RM78 to RM238. Please note that power supply to the rooms is only available from 6am to 10pm.
The rooms are basic but clean, which works for me. Please keep in mind that the water supply can run low during drought periods. For booking, call or WhatsApp these numbers: +60 17-4671411 (Joy), +60 19-8239633 (Ann), +60 16-7265078 (Annie)
Popularity is not always good news for a nature attraction, so I am happy that the area around Gunung Alab has not been deforested like Kundasang and remains refreshingly cool.
Photos taken at Gunung Alab, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo
