Tag Archives: Bongawan

Mangrove Forest of Bongawan River

mangrove forest

Two weeks ago I was on a river cruise trip at Bongawan River. I was amazed by its pristine mangrove forest. So far it’s the only river cruise that let me see three mangrove zones, which have very different vegetation to one another.

location map of Bongawan town
Bongawan is a small town about 70 KM away from Kota Kinabalu, the capital of Sabah, Malaysia. I was told that proboscis monkey is spotted in the mangrove forest of Bongawan, so I went there to have a look.

jetty where the Bongawan river cruise starts
Above: the jetty where the Bongawan river cruise starts
Normally proboscis monkey gathers on the mangrove trees of riverbank in late afternoon, so we started our tour at 4pm at a jetty in Bongawan.

map of Bongawan River
Above: map of Bongawan River (Click to enlarge)
The Main Mangrove and Seaward Mangrove zones are at the left (Laut = Sea), Back Mangrove Zone at the right (KG. = Village), mainly the human settlement area. Below is the map of the jetty. Please note you need to book the tour in advance.

View My Sabah Map in a larger map

going onboard

river cruise on Bongawan River
The starting point of the tour is a few KM from the sea, so the river is in normal yellow color. We explore the landward side first.

Bongawan River
Everyone was looking for proboscis monkey, but I was having fun checking out the vegetation along the river. Many mangrove plants are useful for local community, for example, firewood, building materials, food, herb. Due to modernization, most people just buy stuffs and don’t collect what they need from forest.

Oncosperma tigillarium (Nibung palm)
At the beginning, we already see the dense clump of Nibung trees (species: Oncosperma tigillarium), which indicates the transitional area between dry land and mangrove zone. The wood of Nibung Palm can be used for minor construction such as furniture and poles for stilt houses.

Nipah palm
Then we see many Nipah Palm, which likes to grow on soft and fine-grained substrates in the Back Mangrove Zone. Its inflorescence produces sweet syrup, which is rich in sucrose and is used for production of sugar, vinegar and alcohol. The leaf fibers are great for making ropes, brushes and brooms. The fruit (atap) is edible and a popular dessert.

woman fishing

The upstream dry land of Bongawan River is moderately inhabited. We passed by some villages and plantation. The density of mangrove trees here is relatively low.

fishing boats parking
Same as car for city people, boat is important for villagers living next to river. Almost every house has a “parking lot” for their boats.

abandoned luxury boat
Above: an abandoned boat
The boatman says this “junk” was used to be a RM200,000 luxury boat.. WOW! How and Why did it end up there then?

mangrove fruit
We saw many fruits like above. Not sure if it is the fruit of “Ketapang” tree (Terminalia catappa), which is edible.

swampy area of Bongawan River

grasses and ferns in swamp
Then our boat enters a swampy area, which is dominated by dense water grasses and Piai Raya mangrove ferns (Acrostichum aureum). The mature leaves of Piai Raya fern are used for thatching and as fodder for cattle. The young leaves are eaten as vegetable in Indonesia.

swampy area of Bongawan River
There are many “volcano moulds” built by the mud lobsters in this swamp. Mud lobster is a crustacean that looks like a hybrid of lobster and scorpion. It only crawls out of its burrow at night so it’s rare to see. Yes it is edible.

mangrove forest of Bongawan
Later we turned back to move downstream toward the sea. We found long-tailed macaque, monitor lizard and a few birds (Hill Myna, Dollar Bird, Blue-throated bee eater).

mangrove trees with stilt roots
Now we are inside the Main Mangrove Zone, which has the most diverse and complex mangrove ecology. This zone is characterized by abundant mangrove trees of Rhizophora species such as Bakau Minyak (Rhizophora apiculata) and Bakau Kurap (Rhizophora mucronata). The water also turns brackish and we can smell mud (like mild rotten egg).

mangrove tree (Rhizophora apiculata)
Bakau Minyak prefers soft and muddy soil of riverbank. The wood is a nice timber for making beams, furniture, firewood, charcoal and foundation piles.

river cruise inside mangrove
The mangrove trees of Main Mangrove Zone in Bongawan are in pristine condition. They are lush, dense and tall, some are more than 15 Meters in height.

enjoying river cruise
There are 52 true mangrove plants (purely live in mangrove) in the world. 42 species are found in Malaysia, and 34 are found in Sabah. Malaysia accounts for about 3.7% (577,500 ha) of the world’s mangrove area. 59% of Malaysian mangrove forest are in Sabah.

dense mangrove trees

Rhizophora mucronata (Bakau Kurap)
The mangrove trees with aerial roots are Bakau Kurap (Rhizophora mucronata). It is the most widespread mangrove species in the world. Its wood can be used for fuel and charcoal. The tannin from the bark is used for tanning and dyeing of fishing lines and ropes. Usually it is scattered along the riverbank, but here in Bongawan its density is very high.

seaward mangrove zone
As we approach the estuary of Bongawan, we enter the Seaward Mangrove Zone.

estuary of Bongawan River

mangrove forest on the shore
We exit from the estuary to the open sea for a while and enjoy the mangrove view of the coastline. These mangrove trees are important natural barrier that mitigates coastal erosion, tsunami and rising of sea level.

mangrove trees in tidal zone
As mangrove trees grow on tidal zone, their bases are flooded during high tide. That’s why most of them have stilt roots that serve 2 main purposes: (1) to hold itself firm in muddy soil, and (2) to breathe air during high tide.

back to jetty
We returned to the jetty around 5:30pm. Too bad we didn’t see any proboscis monkey. Anyway, I had joined other river cruises in south-western part of Sabah, but this is the first time I see Back Mangrove Zone, Main Mangrove Zone and Seaward Mangrove Zone in a day. For me, the flora is impressive, though the upstream area is pressured by development.

More Photos

You may check out my photo album if you want to see more nice pictures:
Photo gallery of Bongawan river cruise

Photos taken in Bongawan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

Other river cruises:
Klias (Peat Swamp Forest)
Weston (Seaward Mangrove)
Deluxe River Cruise

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Bongawan town

Pre-war shoplot in Bongawan

Bongawan is about 70 KM away from Kota Kinabalu (KK), located between Kimanis and Beaufort. On the way to Beaufort, when you see a gambus musical instrument in the roundabout, just take a right turn. Most of the population here are Orang Brunei. I went to Bongawan on Saturday when they have tamu (open market), coz that’s where you can tell a lot about the locals by looking at what they sell and what they eat.

Saturday market of Bongawan
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Actually I didn’t know what to expect in Bongawan, as very little is known about this place. My presence soon attracted a lot of attention, probably due to the camera that I was carrying. I walked in tamu, pretending I was a tourist and thought they would lose interest in couple of minutes. I was wrong. They greeted me warmly and learnt about my purpose. One of the hawker even gave me a free “cap-kuih”, a fried bread with very crispy skin, soft and creamy inside. I also tried the “Bachal”, a rojak-like (mixed vegetables) food wrapped in banana leaf.

The people are friendly but a bit camera-shy. When I took their photos, their friends will tease them. When it was their turn, others would laugh back. A young Orang Brunei girl even can speak Chinese.

Cap-kuih and Bachal food
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When I was walking around, a few locals kept on pointing at a old wooden building, trying to show me the feature of the town. It is (see below) a pre-war shophouse built in British colony time. A senior local says this 10-shop building is a mix of 1922 and 1939 shop joined together, though there is a year stamp “1939” on it.

1939 pre-war shophouse

Kimanis and Membakut also have this kind of building but look newer. Fire has destroyed some post-war building in Tamparuli and Beaufort. Once this historical heritage is gone, it will be replaced by cement structure (which would last less than 20 years by the standard of Sabah developers).

Below is a photo of 1950 post-war building, just in front of the 1939 shophouse. The shops in ground floor are usually sell food or grocery stores. The first floor is family house.

1950 post-war shophouse

Bongawan was once a heavily guided town of Japanese during World War 2 coz Beaufort railway was the key transport centre. I was trying to know more about the Japanese occupation from a 80-year old local. He said everyone was hiding in the wood, and there was a massacre happened in Kota Belud but the bodies could not be found.

A local let me visited the kitchen inside the 1939 building. Besides tap water, there was a well behind the shop. The toilet has no toilet bowl, and you only see a small hole at the bottom. It makes me feeling uneasy to pee to the ground. Frankly, it was quite fun coz I didn’t need to aim, haha…

Ice coffee
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Kopi-O Ping (ice coffee) costs how much in KK? RM1.80 per glass right? A bottle of ice coffee is only RM1.40 in Bongawan! They fill the coffee in used Tiger / Carlsberg beer bottle then cold it in refrigerator. The glass bottle allows the thorough cooling of coffee, and the ice coffee has been served like this for at least 20 years. So far I only find such”featured drink” in Bongawan.

Ulu Bongawan
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Besides the town itself, I also checked out the Kopi-O+Teh-C (coffee + milk tea) rivers in Ulu Bongawan, a village and plantation region 1.5 KM away from town. When the brackish river flows into the brown river, it looks like milk tea special. Too bad it is not big enough, otherwise it can be one of the 7 wonders in Sabah. Bongawan beach, about 2.5 KM away, is also a nice and white sandy beach to hang around.

I wonder what will happen to the old shophouses in the future. Hopefully the government will preserve them. I will come back again many years later to see if they will vanish under development…

Photos taken in Bongawan, Sabah, Malaysia Borneo

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